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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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knitoe

Member
Funky Papa said:
Check if you are using one of the new, slower drives. OCZ is running a voluntary exchange program.
People are mistaken what the drive exchange actually means. Lets say you exchange 25nm drive, you will not be getting a 34nm drive back as you and many are assuming. What the exchange is let say the drive advertize as 60GB, but after formatting, you only get 55GB. That has to do with OCZ using 64Gbit die size which takes more space. In exchange, they will give you 32Gbit die size which gives back 5GB space lost. But, the SSD will mostly still perform the same since they are still on the 25nm chips.
 

Funky Papa

FUNK-Y-PPA-4
knitoe said:
People are mistaken what the drive exchange actually means. Lets say you exchange 25nm drive, you will not be getting a 34nm drive back as you and many are assuming. What the exchange is let say the drive advertize as 60GB, but after formatting, you only get 55GB. That has to do with OCZ using 64Gbit die size which takes more space. In exchange, they will give you 32Gbit die size which gives back 5GB space lost. But, the SSD will mostly still perform the same since they are still on the 25nm chips.
Mmm... I was under the impression that OCZ was also offering smaller but faster units.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
knitoe said:
People are mistaken what the drive exchange actually means. Lets say you exchange 25nm drive, you will not be getting a 34nm drive back as you and many are assuming. What the exchange is let say the drive advertize as 60GB, but after formatting, you only get 55GB. That has to do with OCZ using 64Gbit die size which takes more space. In exchange, they will give you 32Gbit die size which gives back 5GB space lost. But, the SSD will mostly still perform the same since they are still on the 25nm chips.

The reason the 25nm chips are faster is because they use denser dies, and so doubling the die capacity will cut the number of NAND storage devices in half, thus crippling the speed. If they double the number of dies, that would fix performance.

That being said, OCZ will let you exchange for 34nm units, as far as I'm aware.
 

knitoe

Member
TheExodu5 said:
The reason the 25nm chips are faster is because they use denser dies, and so doubling the die capacity will cut the number of NAND storage devices in half, thus crippling the speed. If they double the number of dies, that would fix performance.

That being said, OCZ will let you exchange for 34nm units, as far as I'm aware.
You have it backwards. 34nm chips are actually faster. If it was the opposite, people wouldn't be complaining. They are switching to 25nm because it's cheaper to produce.

And, you will only get a 34nm replacement if you can prove you are running them in raid. Running 34nm & 25nm SSD will hamper performance. Thus, in that case, OCZ will exchange you for 34nm while supply last. Just take a trip to their forum, read up and it should all be clear to anyone.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
knitoe said:
You have it backwards. 34nm chips are actually faster. If it was the opposite, people wouldn't be complaining. They are switching to 25nm because it's cheaper to produce.

And, you will only get a 34nm replacement if you can prove you are running them in raid. Running 34nm & 25nm SSD will hamper performance. Thus, in that case, OCZ will exchange you for 34nm while supply last. Just take a trip to their forum, read up and it should all be clear to anyone.

From Anandtech:

34nm IMFT 120.1 MB/s 155.9 MB/s
25nm IMFT 110.9 MB/s 145.8 MB/s

The speed is almost the same. The drastic reduction in performance is because the number of NAND devices is halved, leaving half the amount of parallel channels to read/write to.
 

Omiee

Member
my ssd is 1 week old so i dont think thats the reason.
i did another test and this is what came up:

Should i be worried that i get 2 results that are not even close?
Because write was 50mb in the first test and now is around 200

another problem i have: I deleted some stuff on my SSD like 2 games etc and it said i had 8gb free space, i turn my pc off. I just started it again because i came home, i check computer and the hdd now has 1.8 gb free. How can that happen?

20qlt85.png
 
Quick question:

I built my PC yesterday and I feel like my idle temperatures are a little high. It's a 2600k with a Noctua NH-D14 with MX-4 paste. My idle core temps are in the high 30's/low 40's. I'm not sure if there's a break-in period for the paste but I just feel the temps should be lower. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about re-applying paste and reseating the heatsink tonight.
 

ithorien

Member
Azwethinkweiz said:
Quick question:

I built my PC yesterday and I feel like my idle temperatures are a little high. It's a 2600k with a Noctua NH-D14 with MX-4 paste. My idle core temps are in the high 30's/low 40's. I'm not sure if there's a break-in period for the paste but I just feel the temps should be lower. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about re-applying paste and reseating the heatsink tonight.

300 hours for MX-4 is the break-in, but that temp seems just a little high for that fan/CPU (I assume not OC yet). Are you checking the temps in BIOS or Windows? Is the room warm?
 

Omiee

Member
verbum said:


I read it, and i checked for new firmwares on device manager for the ssd and it said i have the latest.
I did the chrystal tool test and it came out 100% healthy, and my index score is 7.5. So it should be good right?
Im just worried that i have 2 different results.

Also my other hdd came up as caution on the test.

4jt84p.png



Azwethinkweiz said:
Quick question:

I built my PC yesterday and I feel like my idle temperatures are a little high. It's a 2600k with a Noctua NH-D14 with MX-4 paste. My idle core temps are in the high 30's/low 40's. I'm not sure if there's a break-in period for the paste but I just feel the temps should be lower. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about re-applying paste and reseating the heatsink tonight.

that is a bit high, i only have a hyper 212 and overclocked to 4.4 and my load temps are 40's
 

verbum

Member
Sarcasm said:
How do I do firmware updates for my SSD? I haven't even got my laptop I want to put it in.

You could hook it up to a desktop via a SATA (internal) or E-SATA (external) port and update the firmware if necessary.
 

knitoe

Member
Azwethinkweiz said:
Quick question:

I built my PC yesterday and I feel like my idle temperatures are a little high. It's a 2600k with a Noctua NH-D14 with MX-4 paste. My idle core temps are in the high 30's/low 40's. I'm not sure if there's a break-in period for the paste but I just feel the temps should be lower. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about re-applying paste and reseating the heatsink tonight.
MX-4 shouldn't have a break-in period. What is your cpu voltage at idle and room / ambient temp?
 
ithorien said:
300 hours for MX-4 is the break-in, but that temp seems just a little high for that fan/CPU (I assume not OC yet). Are you checking the temps in BIOS or Windows? Is the room warm?

No OC yet, it's at room temperature, checking the temps in windows with core temp, although the bios is giving similar readings. All the voltages and such are whatever the MB sets automatically, as I haven't started playing with the settings yet (wanting to get it stable and cool before I start the OC process). The MB is a P8P67 Pro, btw.
 

ithorien

Member
knitoe said:
MX-4 shouldn't have a break-in period. What is your cpu voltage at idle and room / ambient temp?

Blonde moment, I was looking at the wrong paste -_- MX-4 does not cure, that's the verbage right off the box.
 

verbum

Member
Omiee said:
I read it, and i checked for new firmwares on device manager for the ssd and it said i have the latest.
I did the chrystal tool test and it came out 100% healthy, and my index score is 7.5. So it should be good right?
Im just worried that i have 2 different results.

Also my other hdd came up as caution on the test.

4jt84p.png

Something may be wrong with the motherboard if two separate drives are having errors. When you installed Windows did you check for the latest chipset drivers for the motherboard from the manufacturer's site?
If only the Samsung HD is actually having problems, I would get it replaced, looks like a lot of read errors.
What I would do if it were me:
1. Uninstall and reinstall Crystal Disk. See if I got the same results.
2. Check the motherboard mfg forum for similar problems.
3. Update the chipset drivers from the mfg website.
4. See if the motherboard bios version is fairly recent (six months).
5. If the Samsung HD is still having those read errors, get it replaced.
6. Check the SSD mfg website forums for similar problems.
7. Replace the motherboard.
8. Replace the SSD drive.
 

knitoe

Member
Azwethinkweiz said:
No OC yet, it's at room temperature, checking the temps in windows with core temp, although the bios is giving similar readings. All the voltages and such are whatever the MB sets automatically, as I haven't started playing with the settings yet (wanting to get it stable and cool before I start the OC process). The MB is a P8P67 Pro, btw.
Download and run HWmonitor. Tell use your min/max voltage and temp. Also, what is your room temp? A person with 23C room temp will most likely have a lower idle temp than someone in 33C room.
 
knitoe said:
Download and run HWmonitor. Tell use your min/max voltage and temp. Also, what is your room temp? A person with 23C room temp will most likely have a lower idle temp than someone in 33C room.

I'll do so when I get home this evening and post the results. Sorry, I should have specified that I meant standard room temperature. Thermostat is always set to 74F, which is 23C.
 

knitoe

Member
shouamabane said:
These are my readings from HWmonitor. What is up with the Vertex 3 temp? What could be causing that?
Either the temp sensor on Vertex 3 is messed up or HWmonitor hasn't been updated to read the temp correctly. I am guessing it's the later.
 

Omiee

Member
verbum said:
Something may be wrong with the motherboard if two separate drives are having errors. When you installed Windows did you check for the latest chipset drivers for the motherboard from the manufacturer's site?
If only the Samsung HD is actually having problems, I would get it replaced, looks like a lot of read errors.
What I would do if it were me:
1. Uninstall and reinstall Crystal Disk. See if I got the same results.
2. Check the motherboard mfg forum for similar problems.
3. Update the chipset drivers from the mfg website.
4. See if the motherboard bios version is fairly recent (six months).
5. If the Samsung HD is still having those read errors, get it replaced.
6. Check the SSD mfg website forums for similar problems.
7. Replace the motherboard.
8. Replace the SSD drive.


oh no its showing my ssd is 100% fine, its shoing my other hdd is having problems.
 

mclaren777

Member
I don't have a MicroCenter store within 1000 miles (I ordered my P67 motherboard online) and I'm worried about how long it will take to get a replacement.

What course of action do you guys recommend? Should I try to make an exchange with the manufacturer (ASUS) instead? I've heard they have a cross-ship option that minimizes down time.
 

knitoe

Member
mclaren777 said:
I don't have a MicroCenter store within 1000 miles (I ordered my P67 motherboard online) and I'm worried about how long it will take to get a replacement.

What course of action do you guys recommend? Should I try to make an exchange with the manufacturer (ASUS) instead? I've heard they have a cross-ship option that minimizes down time.
I replace mine using cross ship to Asus. After your credit card info is processed, they shipped out the B3 MB overnight. Once you switched the MB, you send everything back using pre-paid label. After Asus inspect the return MB, they will release the hold on your credit card.
 

verbum

Member
Omiee said:
oh no its showing my ssd is 100% fine, its shoing my other hdd is having problems.

Then I would replace the Samsung HD.

From another forum,

From my limited knowledge in the area, I look for:

Reallocated Sectors Counts
Spin Retry Count
Read Error Rate
Uncorrectable Sector Count

These are some of the common S.M.A.R.T attributes that disk manufactures use to try and predict when a disk will fail. The 4 above are ones that are known to be critical to disk failure. Different disk manufactuers have different values for the attributes. CrystalDiskInfo reads the type of disk, then loads the manufactuers SMART attribute tables and compares that to the the values "stored" in the disk. When it finds issues, it flags warning in different colours (yellow as you have seen is a warning, red would be really bad).

You can read up more about SMART here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T.

There are many other utilities that do a similar (possibly even better job). Perhaps some of the really knowledgable hardware guru's will also offer some comment, and correct any errors I have made.

Regards,
Golden

There were some firmware issues with some Samsung drives but I would play it safe and just get a new drive. And backup, backup, and backup - once to another drive, once to another media, and once to another place. Especially things like photos, music, docs, etc that may be irreplaceable.
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
Omiee said:
my ssd is 1 week old so i dont think thats the reason.
i did another test and this is what came up:

Should i be worried that i get 2 results that are not even close?
Because write was 50mb in the first test and now is around 200
if you have that little free space, the variance in scores could also be pre (lower) and post (faster) TRIM.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
So what's the reason behind some cpus not being able to hit a certain multiplier? Other than the obvious " some cpus are of better quality because of the manufacturingprocess etc "
 

Omiee

Member
verbum said:
Then I would replace the Samsung HD.

From another forum,



There were some firmware issues with some Samsung drives but I would play it safe and just get a new drive. And backup, backup, and backup - once to another drive, once to another media, and once to another place. Especially things like photos, music, docs, etc that may be irreplaceable.


but i have no problems with my samsung drive, and going with that blue is correct and yellow isent.
the only things that are yellow on that test are these things:

28tde1d.png
 

Aselith

Member
Hazaro said:
If you pay two ISP's and do a ton of configuring and it's doubled bandwidth, not speed.
I might have no idea what I'm talking about.

What do you mean doubled bandwidth and not speed? Don't people in general mean bandwidth when they talk about speed? Like "I used to have 10Mbps but now I got the fast shit 20Mbps!"

I wonder how you could even configure a computer to take two internet connections simultaneously though. I've never heard of it happening. I wonder if you could use that to increase the bandwidth on a landline? Like one from the landline and then stealing someone else's wireless connection? Not that I would ever do that but hypothetically.
 

ithorien

Member
Aselith said:
What do you mean doubled bandwidth and not speed? Don't people in general mean bandwidth when they talk about speed? Like "I used to have 10Mbps but now I got the fast shit 20Mbps!"

I wonder how you could even configure a computer to take two internet connections simultaneously though. I've never heard of it happening. I wonder if you could use that to increase the bandwidth on a landline? Like one from the landline and then stealing someone else's wireless connection? Not that I would ever do that but hypothetically.

10 + 10 = 10 in this situation. Just because you have two 10mbps lines, it doesn't add up to 20. Their individual max is still only 10mbps. You'd have double bandwidth 10mbps connection.

No clue if you can apply the idea of RAID-0 to internet. No idea how to bridge either, so I can't help you there.
 

Omiee

Member
But it still does not make sense why my ssd showed me i had 8gb free space 5 hours ago before i turned off my pc and now it says 1.7.
i havent downloaded anything or what ever.
 

mkenyon

Banned
cleveridea said:
Thinking of this laptop for business use plus 3D gaming especially Action RPG's. like idea of store return as dead pixels drive me nuts and my understanding is Best Buy now no longer have restocking fee on computer returns.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ASUS+-+...lack/1774899.p?id=1218290438380&skuId=1774899

Intel® Core™ i7 processor
8GB DDR3 memory
NVIDIA GTX 460M graphics 1GB video memory
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386622

Corky said:
So what's the reason behind some cpus not being able to hit a certain multiplier? Other than the obvious " some cpus are of better quality because of the manufacturingprocess etc "
Do you mean not being able to sustain a certain multiplier level or not being able to even enter in a multiplier # in BIOS to try it out?

If it's the former, its a combination of the reason you listed in conjunction with not being able to cool the proc off at the voltage level required.
 

ithorien

Member
Omiee said:
But it still does not make sense why my ssd showed me i had 8gb free space 5 hours ago before i turned off my pc and now it says 1.7.
i havent downloaded anything or what ever.

Check page file, hibernation settings, system restore. Three most common places of "missing" space.
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
ithorien said:
Check page file, hibernation settings, system restore. Three most common places of "missing" space.
yep. if Windows saw that extra free space it might claimed it for any of the above.
 

Omiee

Member
ithorien said:
Check page file, hibernation settings, system restore. Three most common places of "missing" space.

Where can i find that page file?

nvm i read it wrong, you ment all of those are places where the problem could be.
but what do you mean by page file. ( im sure in dutch it has a different word. )
 

Omiee

Member
well systeme restore is using 0 kb so its not that, i dont know what page file is and how to check if hibernation settings is getting any space.
but 7gb seems a lot to disapear in one time.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
mkenyon said:
Do you mean not being able to sustain a certain multiplier level.
If it's the former, its a combination of the reason you listed in conjunction with not being able to cool the proc off at the voltage level required.

Yup former.
 
Having real trouble deciding which SSD I should get. Have 225 to Amazon so looking to buy there, and want to put my OS and my games on there as well, paired with my 2TB HDD for music, etc.

Choices:

Crucial RealSSD 128GB

Intel X25M 120GB

OCZ Vertex 2 128GB

(seems to be newer, so throwing this into the mix)
OCZ Vertex 3 128GB

Right now, I'm thinking of going with the Crucial RealSSD, it seems to have the best reviews for price. But I have read that OCZ is the best perfomance drive; however, issues with drives dying scare me. And Intel is a lot more expensive for less memory, but I guess carries the Intel brand.

Halp!
 

Hawk269

Member
Azwethinkweiz said:
Quick question:

I built my PC yesterday and I feel like my idle temperatures are a little high. It's a 2600k with a Noctua NH-D14 with MX-4 paste. My idle core temps are in the high 30's/low 40's. I'm not sure if there's a break-in period for the paste but I just feel the temps should be lower. Any thoughts? I'm thinking about re-applying paste and reseating the heatsink tonight.

I have the same CPU but the Cooler Master H212+ which is apparently not as good as your cooler, but my idle temps are around 28-29c. Are you sure there is noting running in the backround that is using the CPU? And my temps have pretty much stayed at that level since I built the rig on April 3rd, so the break in period for me has not changed my temps much at all.
 

FlyinJ

Douchebag. Yes, me.
I'm thinking I need to upgrade my video card.

I currently have a 5770 1 gig. What is a good option for around $200?

Are ATI boards still the ones to stick with? How are GeForce boards these days?

What are the comparable model numbers of GeForce and ATI boards at that price range?

Thanks-
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
FlyinJ said:
I'm thinking I need to upgrade my video card.

I currently have a 5770 1 gig. What is a good option for around $200?

Are ATI boards still the ones to stick with? How are GeForce boards these days?

What are the comparable model numbers of GeForce and ATI boards at that price range?

Thanks-

Slightly above 200 are both the 560 gtx ti and 6950 1gb cards. Both some of the best bang for the buck gpus out there.
 
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