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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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G

gwarm01

Member
My question probably isn't going to be very interesting since it's dealing with relatively ancient technology, but here it is.

I'm wanting to play MechWarrior: Living Legends (a mod for Crysis), and my current system can't really handle it at a decent framerate.

Here's what I have (from memory, so I'm hazy on the details):
Pentium E5200 @ 2.5Ghz (unable to keep a stable overclock)
4GB DDR2 RAM
PCIe HD 3850 512MB.
19" monitor @ 1440x900

I know my setup is crummy, but I'm guessing the videocard is what's really holding me back. I don't mind playing on medium settings, but higher would be better. My main concern is that I don't want to spend a lot of money just to play this one game.

I've been looking at the HD 5770 and 5750 for a while, but they're on the higher side of what I'm willing to pay. I guess the real question is how would a 4850 handle the game? I just found one on Newegg for $50 AR, which seems incredibly cheap. Would it be worth the purchase, considering my lowered demands?

Here's the card in question: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150482
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
gwarm01 said:
My question probably isn't going to be very interesting since it's dealing with relatively ancient technology, but here it is.

I'm wanting to play MechWarrior: Living Legends (a mod for Crysis), and my current system can't really handle it at a decent framerate.

Here's what I have (from memory, so I'm hazy on the details):
Pentium E5200 @ 2.5Ghz (unable to keep a stable overclock)
4GB DDR2 RAM
PCIe HD 3850 512MB.
19" monitor @ 1440x900

I know my setup is crummy, but I'm guessing the videocard is what's really holding me back. I don't mind playing on medium settings, but higher would be better. My main concern is that I don't want to spend a lot of money just to play this one game.

I've been looking at the HD 5770 and 5750 for a while, but they're on the higher side of what I'm willing to pay. I guess the real question is how would a 4850 handle the game? I just found one on Newegg for $50 AR, which seems incredibly cheap. Would it be worth the purchase, considering my lowered demands?

Here's the card in question: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150482
Click to expand...
That's a tough one. Both your proc and vid card are likely holding back performance. If there's any way you could find some room in your budget even for a Q6600 + 5850, you'd be in a better place. I'd look up benches on the video cards you are interested in in Crysis and see how they fare. The system that they are in is important when looking at the benches as well.
 
D

desh

Member
I've put together a core i3-2100 build.
I feel like I can save some more on the motherboard, but I'm not sure what are some good alternatives to the Asus.
Not sure about the video card either. I'm trying to stay around $600.

33le52t.jpg
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
H67 motherboard will do what you want with a 2100. Not certain if the 380W will be enough for your system, but I don't know the load requirements for a 6850.
 
S

scogoth

Member
gwarm01 said:
My question probably isn't going to be very interesting since it's dealing with relatively ancient technology, but here it is.

I'm wanting to play MechWarrior: Living Legends (a mod for Crysis), and my current system can't really handle it at a decent framerate.

Here's what I have (from memory, so I'm hazy on the details):
Pentium E5200 @ 2.5Ghz (unable to keep a stable overclock)
4GB DDR2 RAM
PCIe HD 3850 512MB.
19" monitor @ 1440x900

I know my setup is crummy, but I'm guessing the videocard is what's really holding me back. I don't mind playing on medium settings, but higher would be better. My main concern is that I don't want to spend a lot of money just to play this one game.

I've been looking at the HD 5770 and 5750 for a while, but they're on the higher side of what I'm willing to pay. I guess the real question is how would a 4850 handle the game? I just found one on Newegg for $50 AR, which seems incredibly cheap. Would it be worth the purchase, considering my lowered demands?

Here's the card in question: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150482
Click to expand...

4850 is not a worthwhile upgrade. If you want more performance in crysis even a 5750 would be below the bottom end of recommended gpus.

desh said:
I've put together a core i3-2100 build.
I feel like I can save some more on the motherboard, but I'm not sure what are some good alternatives to the Asus.
Not sure about the video card either. I'm trying to stay around $600.
Click to expand...
6850 needs at least a 500W psu.
 
K

Kenka

Member
desh said:
I've put together a core i3-2100 build.
I feel like I can save some more on the motherboard, but I'm not sure what are some good alternatives to the Asus.
Not sure about the video card either. I'm trying to stay around $600.
Click to expand...

Man, one thing : if you plan on sticking with the i3-2100, get a H67 board with the necessary output features. I have the LE and it gave me much headscratching. First, it never recognized my HDD. Second, I just don't like it.

Also, 380W is way low, choose a 550 W power supply instead.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
To hell with what a manufacturer suggests. That sort of thing is more for folks who don't know how to measure or look up this stuff, so they put a high amount there. TDP is listed clear as day. He'll be fine with that 380w.
Sarcasm said:
Any way of hooking up my sataII SSD to my desktop without taking the case apart? (Too lazy)
Click to expand...
Seriously? Open the side, put in the HDD tray, hook up to mobo, hook up to power. Will be done in 10 mins.
 
S

Sarcasm

Member
mkenyon said:
To hell with what a manufacturer suggests. That sort of thing is more for folks who don't know how to measure or look up this stuff, so they put a high amount there. TDP is listed clear as day. He'll be fine with that 380w.

Seriously? Open the side, put in the HDD tray, hook up to mobo, hook up to power. Will be done in 10 mins.
Click to expand...

Yea, I am too lazy to do it cause I have to fix computers for family/friends after working constantly.
 
S

scogoth

Member
Sarcasm said:
Any way of hooking up my sataII SSD to my desktop without taking the case apart? (Too lazy)
Click to expand...

Unless you have an external enclosure or sata to usb bridge (both of which making the speed of a ssd useless) then no. Open the case
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
You could theoretically hook it up to an external enclosure that hooks up through esata, but I'm not certain you can boot from esata.
 
C

Cheech

Member
desh said:
I've put together a core i3-2100 build.
I feel like I can save some more on the motherboard, but I'm not sure what are some good alternatives to the Asus.
Not sure about the video card either. I'm trying to stay around $600.
Click to expand...

You have a serious mismatch going on here with the motherboard, cpu, and power supply.

Go with this motherboard, which saves you enough money to step up to this CPU, and get this power supply which gives you headroom (and is very, very high quality to boot). I would also go with this RAM over the Patroit, but that boils down to personal preference and the good luck I've had with Corsair.

That's what I would do. That's pretty close to a pair of builds I did within the last couple weeks for friends of mine, and they were very happy with the results.
 
C

Cheech

Member
FlyinJ said:
If I get a 6950, can I crossfire it with my old 5770?

Will a 650 watt power supply be enough to handle that?
Click to expand...

I don't think the drivers would let you do it. Worst case, it would blow up. Best case, they would both render at the speed of the slower card. I would put money on it not working, though.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
FlyinJ said:
If I get a 6950, can I crossfire it with my old 5770?

Will a 650 watt power supply be enough to handle that?
Click to expand...

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26715356&postcount=10527

Cheech said:
You have a serious mismatch going on here with the motherboard, cpu, and power supply.

Go with this motherboard, which saves you enough money to step up to this CPU, and get this power supply which gives you headroom (and is very, very high quality to boot). I would also go with this RAM over the Patroit, but that boils down to personal preference and the good luck I've had with Corsair.

That's what I would do. That's pretty close to a pair of builds I did within the last couple weeks for friends of mine, and they were very happy with the results.
Click to expand...
It is a good PSU, but overkill for what he needs. Also, I'm iffy on ASrock. Don't know if I'd suggest going with one.
 
C

catapult37

Member
Just finished my 2500K build and it's sweet. But man, this PSU! It's the Corsair TX 750W, and I'm in an Antec 300. I could not believe the insane hydra of thick cords that I now have to shove into the case. Is there no way to remove the cables I'm not using? They terminate inside the PSU casing, and the manual shows no options like that. I mean, I can kinda route them into the open space of the unused drive bays, but it really seems like a mess. I do have a few little plastic clips I can use to corral them a bit. Is there anything I need to be concerned about as regards the cables touching anything like the heat sink (Hyper 212) or whatever? What's my best bet for managing these things, and can I get any of the extras out entirely?
 
S

scogoth

Member
catapult37 said:
Just finished my 2500K build and it's sweet. But man, this PSU! It's the Corsair TX 750W, and I'm in an Antec 300. I could not believe the insane hydra of thick cords that I now have to shove into the case. Is there no way to remove the cables I'm not using? They terminate inside the PSU casing, and the manual shows no options like that. I mean, I can kinda route them into the open space of the unused drive bays, but it really seems like a mess. I do have a few little plastic clips I can use to corral them a bit. Is there anything I need to be concerned about as regards the cables touching anything like the heat sink (Hyper 212) or whatever? What's my best bet for managing these things, and can I get any of the extras out entirely?
Click to expand...

Try not to let the cables rest on the heatsink, modular PSUs allow you to disconnect cables otherwise you would need to cut the cables and cap them but you'd need to re-crimp the ends to use them again. Just buy some cable ties
 
C

Cheech

Member
mkenyon said:
It is a good PSU, but overkill for what he needs. Also, I'm iffy on ASrock. Don't know if I'd suggest going with one.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't call a 520w PS, especially a really good one like a Seasonic, "overkill". What if he wants to throw a $400 nVidia Wundercard in there in a year or so? That Seasonic will give him plenty of cheap, clean power. I wouldn't put a 380w power supply into anything unless it was a straight up office PC, or a HTPC. Too low for a gaming PC, IMO.

Asrock (ASSROCK!) makes great motherboards. I've never gotten a dud from them. They aren't "cheap" cheap motherboards. The reason that H61/U3S3 is such an interesting board is because they saved money by only using the H61 chipset, but putting USB 3.0 and SATA3 on there using separate chipsets. It's really a nice design to get around an additional Intel tax. The board works very well, too, like I mentioned I installed two of that board within the last couple weeks and both builds went flawlessly.

I was an Asus man myself since the mid 90s, but that brand has gotten to the point where they have a "cachet tax" like Apple or Intel. They are unquestionably excellent motherboards, but if you are building to a price, Asrock has the best bang/buck right now IMO. I would even choose one over MSI or Gigabyte at the same price.
 
C

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
The thing about overhead with regards to PSUs is that if you get your ass a strong quality psu, it'll most likely be the only thing ( along with perhaps case + HSF ) that could survive a full pcupgrade.

For example, buying a corsair 750W psu might very well be overkill for a midrange single gpu setup. But that very same psu could be reused when you buy a gtx 680 or w/e in the future.
 
C

Cheech

Member
catapult37 said:
Just finished my 2500K build and it's sweet. But man, this PSU! It's the Corsair TX 750W, and I'm in an Antec 300. I could not believe the insane hydra of thick cords that I now have to shove into the case. Is there no way to remove the cables I'm not using? They terminate inside the PSU casing, and the manual shows no options like that. I mean, I can kinda route them into the open space of the unused drive bays, but it really seems like a mess. I do have a few little plastic clips I can use to corral them a bit. Is there anything I need to be concerned about as regards the cables touching anything like the heat sink (Hyper 212) or whatever? What's my best bet for managing these things, and can I get any of the extras out entirely?
Click to expand...

That's the power supply I have, and yeah, the cable management sucks. I ended up routing mine sorta/kinda underneath the motherboard tray.
 
C

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
black_vegeta said:
Alright, so I just ordered the Noctua D14

Now, I'm thinking of getting the SilverStone Aluminum ATX Mid Tower FT02B-W case. Thing looks godlike.
Click to expand...

Damn child, we're brothers in more ways than one :

1) Balrog 4 Lyfe, get that fight money
2) Same pc-parts
3) Cool cats

Sheeeeeiiit

respekknuckles.jpg
 
R

R2D4

Banned
Cheech said:
I wouldn't call a 520w PS, especially a really good one like a Seasonic, "overkill". What if he wants to throw a $400 nVidia Wundercard in there in a year or so? That Seasonic will give him plenty of cheap, clean power. I wouldn't put a 380w power supply into anything unless it was a straight up office PC, or a HTPC. Too low for a gaming PC, IMO.

Asrock (ASSROCK!) makes great motherboards. I've never gotten a dud from them. They aren't "cheap" cheap motherboards. The reason that H61/U3S3 is such an interesting board is because they saved money by only using the H61 chipset, but putting USB 3.0 and SATA3 on there using separate chipsets. It's really a nice design to get around an additional Intel tax. The board works very well, too, like I mentioned I installed two of that board within the last couple weeks and both builds went flawlessly.

I was an Asus man myself since the mid 90s, but that brand has gotten to the point where they have a "cachet tax" like Apple or Intel. They are unquestionably excellent motherboards, but if you are building to a price, Asrock has the best bang/buck right now IMO. I would even choose one over MSI or Gigabyte at the same price.
Click to expand...


Asrock is Asus' budget brand.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/other/display/news458.html
 
R

R2D4

Banned
Definitely going to re-due by 212+ this weekend. I am at 30c at idle with my 2500k but when I run anything intensive that uses the whole 4.6Ghz I have it overclocked to the temps go up to the mid 70's sometimes mid 80's. I am using the auto overclock on my P8P67 M-Pro. bought another fan to for push pull hoping that will help. I can hear the fan ramp up so I know the power management on the motherboard is working. Can't figure out why temps are so high. I used the Cooler Master paste that the 212+ came with. Using it in a Silverstone FT-02.
 
S

scogoth

Member
R2D4 said:
Definitely going to re-due by 212+ this weekend. I am at 30c at idle with my 2500k but when I run anything intensive that uses the whole 4.6Ghz I have it overclocked to the temps go up to the mid 70's sometimes mid 80's. I am using the auto overclock on my P8P67 M-Pro. bought another fan to for push pull hoping that will help. I can hear the fan ramp up so I know the power management on the motherboard is working. Can't figure out why temps are so high. I used the Cooler Master paste that the 212+ came with. Using it in a Silverstone FT-02.
Click to expand...

Thats why its so hot, manually oc for the lowest voltage settings and least amount of heat. Auto overclocks generally bump the voltage much higher then necessary.
 
M

Mr Nightman

Banned
Just a quick question, i am planning on rocking my gtx 460 with a 9800gt as a physx card, can I expect my psu to handle this well? It is a hec x power pro 600 watt power supply
 
R

R2D4

Banned
scogoth said:
Thats why its so hot, manually oc for the lowest voltage settings and least amount of heat. Auto overclocks generally bump the voltage much higher then necessary.
Click to expand...


I just loaded the defaults and running Prime 95 I'm at upper 40's. So yes it looks like the voltage is doing it. But I can't seem to find anyplace on my P8P67 M-Pro to change the voltage? I'll have to dig out the book.
 
K

Kyaw

Member
It's a very good build and it should all be compatible.
Why not get yourself a SSD if you are planning on spending that much already?
As for which SSD, i'll leave this for more capable experts. :)
 
B

blanky

Member
Syphon Filter said:
Hey guys, i am going to be building a new PC next month for the first time. What do you think about this build? Let me know if it's all compatible and overall a good build.
Click to expand...

I would suggest adding atleast a small OS SSD if you spend that much money, a small 80gb drive should be nice improvement.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
Syphon Filter said:
Hey guys, i am going to be building a new PC next month for the first time. What do you think about this build? Let me know if it's all compatible and overall a good build.
Click to expand...

Get the Asus DirectCu II GTX 580 instead. Much better cooler...triple slot awesomeness. :)
 
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