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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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TheExodu5

Banned
Livanh said:
Care to elaborate that a bit? Because just comparing the stats the vertex looks way better. Did you have any problems?

And what about the boxed CPUs? Still as loud as ever?

1) No issues here. At least one GAF member had issues with his Vertex 3 (it would pause for 30-60 seconds at a time), and quite a few have had failed Vertex 2 drives. The Vertex 3 does have better numbers, and it could very well be fine, but like I said, the performance differences mean very little in terms of real world performance. Windows performance will be the same on both...the only thing you can expect from the Vertex 3 is slightly faster games loading. And keep in mind, the 120GB version of the Vertex 3 is not nearly as fast as the 240GB version...the numbers they give are not accurate whatsoever.

I would suggest you read the Anandtech review for the Vertex 3.

2) Not terribly loud, but a little whiny.
 

Omiee

Member
TheExodu5 said:
1) No issues here. At least one GAF member had issues with his Vertex 3 (it would pause for 30-60 seconds at a time), and quite a few have had failed Vertex 2 drives. The Vertex 3 does have better numbers, and it could very well be fine, but like I said, the performance differences mean very little in terms of real world performance. Windows performance will be the same on both...the only thing you can expect from the Vertex 3 is slightly faster games loading. And keep in mind, the 120GB version of the Vertex 3 is not nearly as fast as the 240GB version...the numbers they give are not accurate whatsoever.

I would suggest you read the Anandtech review for the Vertex 3.

2) Not terribly loud, but a little whiny.


why would you advice the intel than, since its a little bit slower than the vertez 2?
is intel better quality or what?
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Omiee said:
why would you advice the intel than, since its a little bit slower than the vertez 2?
is intel better quality or what?

Presumably higher reliability.

I would not get the Vertex 2 at all. The Vertex 3 has some merrit since it's essentially the fastest drive out there, but otherwise, I feel more comfortable recommending the Intel 320.

Coming from an Intel X25-M, I didn't notice a big difference in performance going to a Vertex 3 240GB. I just don't think the specs translate all that well into real world performance.
 

Omiee

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Presumably higher reliability.

I would not get the Vertex 2 at all. The Vertex 3 has some merrit since it's essentially the fastest drive out there, but otherwise, I feel more comfortable recommending the Intel 320.

Coming from an Intel X25-M, I didn't notice a big difference in performance going to a Vertex 3 240GB. I just don't think the specs translate all that well into real world performance.

hmm i bought a vertex 2 60gb a few weeks ago for 100 euro, i can still sell it for 80 euro this week.
and buy that intel 160gb for 220
should i do that?
 

Ploid 3.0

Member
Woo I managed to over clock my cpu to 3.45ghz (Athlon II X4 640) on stock cooling. Temp idle at 24c on cores 36 on TMPIN0. Max at around 55 core with prime, didn't check TMPIN0.

I spent hours trying to make the computer boot at 3.45ghz then tried the OC genie thing and it worked in seconds, wasted time lol. Now I know I want a cooler since this MSI board don't seem too bad at ocing. It works at least.

It's a shame that PC don't seem to have a lot of demos for games like consoles. I remember PC being king of demos, and now I still can't test drive Shift 2.



Dosia said:
Has anybody here purchased win7 through the microsoft student discount program? My girlfriends bro is a student and he is still awaiting confirmation. Its going on 3 days how long should it take?

I did, I downloaded the iso from microsoft after purchase of the code then burned it to cd and installed the OS without putting the code in. I then went into registry and made it so the os was made to be a upgraded install or something. I found the step by step on youtube. I tried the method gaf said (install, then don't enter code. Put disk in again and this time use code) but it didn't work for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZj99tRmmp8
 
Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z

20110511_a2.jpg

ASUS P8Z68 Series and ROG Motherboards Maximize Z68 Capabilities
http://www.asus.com/News/eBmtlB3WXTWFvcdj/


Stuff like this is just making the wait until my next build painful.
 

Dosia

Member
Ploid 3.0 said:
Woo I managed to over clock my cpu to 3.45ghz (Athlon II X4 640) on stock cooling. Temp idle at 24c on cores 36 on TMPIN0. Max at around 55 core with prime, didn't check TMPIN0.

I spent hours trying to make the computer boot at 3.45ghz then tried the OC genie thing and it worked in seconds, wasted time lol. Now I know I want a cooler since this MSI board don't seem too bad at ocing. It works at least.

It's a shame that PC don't seem to have a lot of demos for games like consoles. I remember PC being king of demos, and now I still can't test drive Shift 2.





I did, I downloaded the iso from microsoft after purchase of the code then burned it to cd and installed the OS without putting the code in. I then went into registry and made it so the os was made to be a upgraded install or something. I found the step by step on youtube. I tried the method gaf said (install, then don't enter code. Put disk in again and this time use code) but it didn't work for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZj99tRmmp8
How long did it take to get a response from microsoft for student verification?
 

Ploid 3.0

Member
Pretty much instant, like buying a product, and registering on a high end website that require a email activation. I got my email right away. I doubt you even still need to be a student, just still have your student edu email activated. They just send the link to buy to that email, they didn't test enrollment or something.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Presumably higher reliability.

I would not get the Vertex 2 at all. The Vertex 3 has some merrit since it's essentially the fastest drive out there, but otherwise, I feel more comfortable recommending the Intel 320.

Coming from an Intel X25-M, I didn't notice a big difference in performance going to a Vertex 3 240GB. I just don't think the specs translate all that well into real world performance.

How can you even compare the Vertex 3 to the Intel 320 is beyond comprehension at the same disk size. I understand when you say real world application but isn't that measured with random 4K throughput which Vertex 3 has certainly higher than the Intel 320. Also the Intel 320 is limited to SATA II (3 Gbps) applications whereas Vertex 3 supports SATA III (6 Gbps) doubling the throughput at the interface level.

Also, you mentioned your friend having stutter or pausing with the Vertex 3. That's due to the way Intel has chosen to implement SATA III in its latest chipset firmware and it affects all SATA III SSDs. He can fix it by manually updating Intel LPM enteries in the Windows registry.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4204/correction-ocz-vertex-3-random-read-performance-data

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4316/ocz-vertex-3-240gb-review/2

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4316/ocz-vertex-3-240gb-review/7
 

vexvegaz

Member
GTX570 owners, how far have you guys manage to oc your card? so far ive gotten to 800/1600 using stock voltage and keeping the temps below 40c - 45c full load (2 - 2 1/2 hour of OCCT).

what is the absolute max voltage can i pass thru these cards?
 
Anyone have any Caviar Black 1TB experience? When running games and such its fine but whenever I try to move files from one place to another (for instance, extract a 250mb .zip file) it takes a full minute with write speeds of only 4mb/s

Edit: Also, I just used the ASUS AI Suite II to "Autotune" my CPU overclock. It did all this shit and said it got to a 4.9 GHz overclock. My "stress test" was some Crysis and only got the temps up to 60-65...should I keep the overclock or since I don't really need it, just clock it back down?
 

Cory_t_

Member
Kalnos said:
Consult your motherboard manual. I think mine was B2 A2.
My manual says Channel A DIMM_A1 and DIMM_A2 Channel B DIMM_B1 and DIMM_B2. A1 and B1 are blue and A2 and B2 are black. It also says to use the blue slots if you plan on overclocking which leads me to believe I want them both in the blue slots. Am I right in thinking that?

EDIT: Figured it out. One per channel :)
 
Meh, fuck overclocking for now (at least using that TurboV program on the ASUS Suite). After doing so my computer would turn on for about 3 seconds, turn off, then turn back on and boot, so I cleared the CMOS and reset all the settings, and now I'm back (I think) to normal.
 
Yoritomo said:
I use the Samsung F4s almost exclusively for my storage array. 11 or so of the 15 drives in my array are Samsung f4s and they've been solid.

The worst news I've heard lately is that seagate purchased samsung's hard drive business. There's a good reason that everyone keeps suggesting the F3 for 1tb drives and the f4 for storage, they're the best drives out there right now.

Cool, thanks. I think I'll spring for that drive then.
 
Saren is Bad said:
Meh, fuck overclocking for now (at least using that TurboV program on the ASUS Suite). After doing so my computer would turn on for about 3 seconds, turn off, then turn back on and boot, so I cleared the CMOS and reset all the settings, and now I'm back (I think) to normal.

I would like to take this opportunity to inform you that you have in your possession the best name on NeoGAF.

Yoritomo said:
I use the Samsung F4s almost exclusively for my storage array. 11 or so of the 15 drives in my array are Samsung f4s and they've been solid.

The worst news I've heard lately is that seagate purchased samsung's hard drive business. There's a good reason that everyone keeps suggesting the F3 for 1tb drives and the f4 for storage, they're the best drives out there right now.

As someone who is about to build a NAS, is the samsung f4 worth spending $20 plus shipping extra per drive than a WD20EARS?
 

Yoritomo

Member
TouchMyBox said:
I would like to take this opportunity to inform you that you have in your possession the best name on NeoGAF.



As someone who is about to build a NAS, is the samsung f4 worth spending $20 plus shipping extra per drive than a WD20EARS?

No. Get the cheapest drives. I'd probably be getting something else but I tend to find ridiculous deals on f4s and haven't had a problem with them yet. IE newegg just had a sale with them for 69 bucks a pop.
 

Coldsnap

Member
Alright, need some help with playing on my 54" Panasonic Plasma. I got a 50' HDMI cable to use it as a second monitor and play game games off that. The only PC game I have right now is Metro 2033 which is a really dark game but it seems too dark. Like during the tunnel stealth parts without my flashlight on it is like I'm standing in a pitch black room. Is this just metro 2033 being very dark or my TV? Also I cannot get windows 7 to recognize my 5.1 receiver, It comes up under my sound devices but it is defaulted to stereo and I can't change it to 5.1. My receiver then takes the sound output from the hdmi and converts it into 5.1 which sounds OK but I can tell it's not the true 5.1 because some voices are playing front center when they should be more off to the side or behind...
 
Smokey said:
ummmmmmmm something isn't right. turned on psu and plugged into outlet..pressed power on the case and....nothing....

sigh
Any empty power connections on mobo? Have you tried to power on directly from mobo(of that options available)
 
I haven't been into PC gaming seriously since about 2005, at which point I used to always build my own and was fairly competent. But now I'm looking to get back into things and find I'm a little behind in trying to match up parts, so feel free to critique my current build.

I'm looking to buy a new PC in the next couple of weeks and I'm having trouble locking down how much power I should pick up for the power supply, I know it's a common question and I tried using that power calculator but I still couldn't nail it down so some advice would be nice.

The main components are as follows:

Intel i5 2500k (With Coolermaster Hyper 212)
Asus P8P67 Pro
Asus GTX 570 Direct CU II (The 3 slot card)
Corsair Vengeance 8GB 2x4 DDR3-1600
Coolermaster CM 690 II Advanced Mid Tower

Other smaller components include a DVD drive, one 1tb 7200 harddrive, and a wireless network card.

I'm trying to keep it under $1400, though at the moment it's just slightly over, and it'll mostly be for gaming with some light video/audio editing.


At the moment I had picked out a Seasonic M12II 620W, which got good reviews and having low noise, even during load. I thought this would be enough, but what's causing confusion is that the build on the front page, as well as a similar build on Tested, has an 800+ power supply.

I don't plan on adding two cards, otherwise I wouldn't go with a 3 slot card, but I may at some point want to add a sound card. I would also like to have room to overclock since both the CPU and video card have room to be bumped up.

Any tips are greatly appreciated, I'm getting pretty excited at jumping back into PC Gaming.
 

Smokey

Member
The Teachinator said:
Any empty power connections on mobo? Have you tried to power on directly from mobo(of that options available)

No. Both 24 pin and 8 pin connectors are plugged in.


Hazaro said:

The 24 pin main connector is connected...the 8 pin is as well....the power switch connector that is part of the front panel installation is plugged into the adapter that came with my mobo along with reset switch etc

my mobo is fried or something i'm about to cry
 

Mejilan

Running off of Custom Firmware
Got some good advice a few weeks ago.
Should I follow up on that, or wait for Ivy Bridge at this point?
 

Coldsnap

Member
Smokey take a step back.

I thought I broke my 2500k a month ago when I built my first rig. I was devistated for 2 hours or so and it turns out my motherboard was being grounded by my case. It's probably something stupid like that.
 
Smokey said:
The 24 pin main connector is connected...the 8 pin is as well....the power switch connector that is part of the front panel installation is plugged into the adapter that came with my mobo along with reset switch etc

i'm about to cry
It's very common for the first build to not start up. Toms hardware has a step by step checklist for no first boot. That's how I found my missed connection. If you're not getting anything at all I'm thinking the power switch isn't properly hooked to mobo. Worst case scenario psu is shit.
 

Smokey

Member
Coldsnap said:
Smokey take a step back.

I thought I broke my 2500k a month ago when I built my first rig. I was devistated for 2 hours or so and it turns out my motherboard was being grounded by my case. It's probably something stupid like that.

And how do I know if this is happening...?
 

Coldsnap

Member
Smokey said:
And how do I know if this is happening...?

Well if nothing is turning on when you press the power button means something else is wrong. A grounded motherboard will at least get power. Check if you plugged in your power button cable correctly, that can be one of the hardest parts because the cables are so small and the plugs are poorly marked.
 
Smokey said:
And how do I know if this is happening...?
You can try assembling your parts (just the basics) outside of the case. before doing that, I suggest reseating your ram (you can try just one stick at a time), double checking your connectors, and making sure that the front panel connectors are situated correctly.


Smokey said:
OH FUCK IT TURNED OH MY GOD
...or not...
 

Smokey

Member
ok...its on...corsair fan is spinning...however i'm getting nothing to my monitor...

There is a red light on next to where it says ..."DRAM _LED MEM OK". that's on right side of the mobo, on the left side there is a green light on so i'm assuming that is good

:(
 

Coldsnap

Member
yea mine does that too.

Unscrew your motherboard then set it on top of the motherboard box and plug everything back into it. See if you get a screen to show up, also give it some time to boot I think those Asus boards load some shit during its first boot
 

Smokey

Member
Coldsnap said:
yea mine does that too.

Unscrew your motherboard then set it on top of the motherboard box and plug everything back into it. See if you get a screen to show up, also give it some time to boot I think those Asus boards load some shit during its first boot


so...is that light doesn't mean anything?

there is a green light coming from the 580 so i'm assuming that's ok....fuck man wtf....I really don't want to take all this shit apart :/
 

knitoe

Member
Smokey said:
so...is that light doesn't mean anything?
Check user manual for what it could mean. Since you are getting power, you don't need to take MB out of the case. Do you see the CPU fan spinning? Is your video card connect correctly, in slot and power cables connected? Try with only 1 stick of ram in different slots.
 

Smokey

Member
knitoe said:
Check user manual for what it could mean. Since you are getting power, you don't need to take MB out of the case. Do you see the CPU fan spinning? Is your video card connect correctly, in slot and power cables connected? Try with only 1 stick of ram in different slots.


I have the corsair H70 with a water pump over the cpu. However the fans on the radiator are spinning. The video card only goes in one way...and has a green light showing in it so.....:/

i will try with one stick of ram

edit: "The DRAM_LED also lights when DIMM is not properly installed. Turn off system and re install the DIMM before using the MemOK! function"

..
 

knitoe

Member
Smokey said:
I have the corsair H70 with a water pump over the cpu. However the fans on the radiator are spinning. The video card only goes in one way...and has a green light showing in it so.....:/

i will try with one stick of ram

edit: "The DRAM_LED also lights when DIMM is not properly installed. Turn off system and re install the DIMM before using the MemOK! function"

great so my RAM is fried i bet
Don't you have 2 sticks of ram. Highly unlikely that both are bad unless the MB crap out and took them with it. Try 1 stick at a time in different slots.

Also reading your past post, you were having ?? installing power cables to the video card. Did you figure it out? It's best to get 2 8 pin connectors to be on different wires coming directly from PSU.

You could also try clearing the MB CMOS.
 

comrade

Member
Smokey said:
I have the corsair H70 with a water pump over the cpu. However the fans on the radiator are spinning. The video card only goes in one way...and has a green light showing in it so.....:/

i will try with one stick of ram

edit: "The DRAM_LED also lights when DIMM is not properly installed. Turn off system and re install the DIMM before using the MemOK! function"

..
Take out your RAM and only use 1 stick. Try to boot.
 

Smokey

Member
I think.....that fixed it

I took out and reseated ram...red lights went away...says

"reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected device and press a key"

translated to english it's asking for OS right. someone confirm so i can run butt naked up and down my stairs
 
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