Thanks for your help. Turns out I'm an idiot and didn't mount the motherboard properly. It now works perfectly! So I pop in Windows 7 and it starts to install and then asks for the product key. I type it in... error. Type it in again... error. Huh? Maybe it's a glitch so I just skip that method. Turns out I bought the UPGRADE version of Windows 7. WHY AM I SO DUMBBBBBBIzayoi said:
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
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black_vegeta
Member
Good to hear that it works.Forkball said:
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Forkball said:
It should still work. Go back and run the disc again, and use the upgrade option. It will do it's thing and take you to Windows. Then put in the product key and it should work. I did a clean install from an upgrade and it worked fine.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Did you build your PC? I get the impression you bought a Dell or something, in which case you are probably out of luck, unfortunately. Changing your CPU (and in turn, motherboard) is going to invalidate your copy of Windows. You might be able to use MS Support like you would for a PC you built and get it validated over the phone, but I'm not sure that would work on a manufactured PC.Edgeward said:
Anyway, you would need a new motherboard as well, and changing that out is basically going to be the same as building a PC from scratch since you have to take pretty much everything out to do it. So those how-to videos in the OP would be fine for what you're doing, you would just have to follow them in reverse first since you are taking it all apart.
How long ago did you do this? When installing it, I skipped the product key since it didn't work and then figured out the issue. I assume it will deactivate itself in 30 days. So instead of selecting custom, I should select upgrade? This has no ramifications? Why wouldn't everyone just buy the upgrade version for clean installs then?chaosblade said:
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I got my copy when it launched (preordered it for half price). That could have been patched out, but considering it was said to be legit by Microsoft themselves (???) I doubt it.Forkball said:
But yes, go back through and select upgrade now that you have Windows installed even though it's not validated. It should work after that.
Edit: http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media
Ether_Snake
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chaosblade said:
Jesus Christ over 30GB just for the OS?
So I might as well just keep my current 80GB HDD? My 1TB external HDD can store everything like photos, textures, 3D scenes backups, music, etc. anyway.
My current HDD is this old thing: http://www.superwarehouse.com/Seagate_Barracuda_80_GB_SATA_Internal_Hard_Drive/ST380817AS/ps/461395
So I'm thinking, no new HDD?
what do u guys think about the stock heatsink on the 2500k for overclocking?
i bought this water cooler just in case..
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair...oductCategoryId=abcat0507007&id=1218115623560
i bought this water cooler just in case..
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair...oductCategoryId=abcat0507007&id=1218115623560
RumblingRosco
Member
nilbog21 said:
The stock heatsink can allow you to overclock to about 4.0 Ghz (or so I hear) without much of an issue, though that varies from chip-to-chip and on how good the airflow is within your case.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Microsoft says 20GB minimum is the requirement, plus you'll want your work software installed on there, plus some free space so the drive has some room to work.Ether_Snake said:
You'll want a faster drive than that old thing, whether it's a SSD or just a quicker HDD like the F4 320GB (was $43 last I checked). If you keep everything except the OS and your work software on a separate drive 40GB might be okay. Like I said, I wouldn't recommend something that small in most cases, but if it's a PC intended for work then you might get away with it.
Not sure about the stock heatsink, but I can comment on the Corsair cooler. It's a poor value, but a decent CPU cooler. It will keep your CPU a lot cooler than the stock heatsink, but the Hyper 212+ and some other cheaper air coolers will do just as well or better.nilbog21 said:
I'd estimate somewhere between $1500-$2000. Don't think HP or Dell even sell builds with 6950 level stuff, their "gaming GPUs" usually top out at midrange stuff. That won't stop them from selling them for a premium though.
nilbog21 said:Ok, I think my computer is finally complete....all the parts have been purchased..
CASE:
NZXT Phantom Full Tower
118$ Shipped AR
PSU:
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply
39.99$ AR
ehh..
RAM:
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory
79.99$
Monitor:
HP 2311x Black 23" 5ms Full HD LED BackLight LCD Monitor
159.99$ shipped
i fucking hate hp, but the reviews are pretty good..sigh
GPU:
MSI R6950-2PM2D2GD5 Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
250$ AR. this is reference card so it is unlockable to 6970
CPU
2500k
+ Gigabyte P67A mobo
got the cpu + mobo bundle for 240$ at microcenter
and i already have a samsung spinpoint F1 1TB 7200rpm hdd i bought for 49.99$ a while ago... so around 700$ for the whole rig (w/o monitor), should be pretty nice system
thx for all the gaffers who helped me, most notably wallash who gave me constant feedback throughout
one last question, do you guys know how much a system like this would cost on retail? just curious..
I wouldnt do this. Your WLAN and LAN speed will be limited by whatever the router runs at because all data will have to be routed through it. Time to upgrade to dual band N gigabit router.Forsete said:I got a PC network related question.
I have a WRT54GL which is running Tomato 1.27, I am very happy with the router. The best I have ever used.
But one thing is bothering me, the slow WLAN. Is it possible to connect a Access Point "in front" of the WRT54GL and perhaps upgrade to 802.11n?
Can anyone recommend a device like that?
This what I had in mind.
It doesnt bother me if it creates two wireless networks.
Any objections to this? D-Link DAP-1360 .. I have heard bad things about D-Link, but that was a few years ago.
http://www.dlink.com/DAP-1360
nilbog21 said:
Dang, how did you get that monitor for $160?
Camelegg is showing $215 as the lowest it's been.. http://camelegg.com/product/N82E16824176198
EDIT: Saw your original post..
http://www.shopping.hp.com/store/product/product_detail/XP598AA%23ABA -- 159.99 before tax with LHD30 promo code.
Ether_Snake
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chaosblade said:
I guess I'll go for a new HDD, maybe this one here, no SSD. I'll just wait for those to get much cheaper.
Is buying two HDs to run them in RAID0 worth it?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
You're not going to get SSD performance out of that (obviously!) but those are pretty speedy for mechanical drives as it is, so they should work pretty nicely in RAID0.Ether_Snake said:
Single drive:
RAID0:
Edit: Actually, TheExodu5 makes a good point. If you were using RAID on anything, it would probably be better to just use RAID1 for your work drive.
TouchMyBox
Member
Forsete said:
The only real reason to cling onto a wrt54gl for dear life is if you're doing dual/triple-link MLPPP. I have a WNR3500L with a modified version of tomato-usb which serves me well, but doesn't have 5GHz capability. Also, there's the dlink rt-16n which uses the same CPU, but has more ram and rom and has actual antennas which always sounds like a good idea.
Ether_Snake
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Alright thanks for the info.
So here is the update on my list:
MB: ASUS P8P67 PRO
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
Sound card: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1
PSU:OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
DVD: ASUS Black 24X DVD+R/RW/etc.
Still undecided about the graphic card. And haven't looked into monitors yet, I'll check what we have at work and get the same thing probably.
Am I forgetting anything?
edit: oh yeah, computer case but I'll wait until everything else is figured out.
So here is the update on my list:
MB: ASUS P8P67 PRO
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
Sound card: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1
PSU:OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
DVD: ASUS Black 24X DVD+R/RW/etc.
Still undecided about the graphic card. And haven't looked into monitors yet, I'll check what we have at work and get the same thing probably.
Am I forgetting anything?
edit: oh yeah, computer case but I'll wait until everything else is figured out.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
8 hours overnight or more is usually what's recommended for Prime95. Alternatively, 2 hours of OCCT is usually considered the equivalent of 8 hours of Prime. There's also Linpack, but I don't know how long people usually run that. It's the most intense of these three tests though.
Insane Metal
Member
So guys, would you help me decide? Currently I got the followiing machine:
- Phenom II X4 945
- 4GB Generic RAM (DDR2 800)
- HD 4890
- ECS A780GM-A Ultra
I'm thinking of getting an i5 2500k with 4 or 8GB of RAM and I'm not sure of which motherboard and graphics card... help me please? I don't want anything too expensive!
- Phenom II X4 945
- 4GB Generic RAM (DDR2 800)
- HD 4890
- ECS A780GM-A Ultra
I'm thinking of getting an i5 2500k with 4 or 8GB of RAM and I'm not sure of which motherboard and graphics card... help me please? I don't want anything too expensive!
dgenx
Made an agreement with another GAF member, refused to honor it because he was broke, but then had no problem continuing to buy video games.
Aww fuck , I wanted to oc my i5 760 to 3.8 and I got bsod I got it to 3.4 and its stable, why other people can oc it to 4? Is it my mobo or my chip is crap :s
Unknown Soldier
Member
TheExodu5 said:
Well, it depends a lot on which drives you are using for RAID. I wouldn't use some crappy Seagate consumer-class hard drives for the boot OS, for instance. 75% of the Newegg reviews for any Seagate drive says DOA, died after a month, died after a few months, etc. However I've had a pair of old-school 74GB WD Raptors running in RAID 0 since 2005. One was manufactured in February 2005, the other in March 2005. They have been carried forward through 4 builds now: Athlon 64 3700+ (single core!), Core 2 Quad Q6600 (first as main box, then as media center PC), and Core i7-950.
I've used these drives as the boot OS and games drives for just over 6 years continuously now in 4 different PCs, always in RAID 0. The WD Raptors were finally retired last month after more than 6 years of faithful service when I put SSDs in both my main box and media center PC as the boot drives. They still work like the day I bought them. If I ever build a 3rd box for NAS, I might use the Raptors as the boot drive for that machine.
Moral of the story: if you buy the right drives, you can use RAID for the OS just fine. This is the primary #1 reason I've been ignoring the OCZ lines of SSDs and bought Intel SSDs for my machines even though the Intel SSDs are a lot slower.
Insane Metal
Member
Difficult to say since I live in a place where everything costs 3x more than usual (Brazil)...knitoe said:
Put it this way, what sort of video card can you afford if you buy a 2500k+mbd/ram? Keeping your current CPU and spending more on the video card would get you better performance in the majority of games, and probably cost less. 2500k is sweet and you'd probably get some gains, but if it eats into your video card upgrade budget, it might not be the best bang for buck.Insane Metal said:
The Teachinator
Banned
nilbog21 said:
The hyper 212 really blows my mind. I was getting around 30-35 across the cores on my 2600K. Opening the case I realized it was a little, slanted.
So yesterday I took it apart and reseated it. Took a lot faster this time and I was able to get it on straight.
My core temps are now at 25-27C idle. My room temperature is a constant 77F. I haven't pushed an OC yet...but it's there for when I need it down the road.
This cooler is excellent and I'd strongly recommend it to anyone. Some of those videos on youtube of the liquid leaking out into the system pushed me away from that type of cooling. At these temps no need to risk it...even though I know the risk is miniscule.
scoobs
Member
Gettin' the itch to spend some money on newegg... thinkin' its time for a new HDD and to try a SSD!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136769
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167042
Looking at these two, any thoughts before I pull the trigger on the old credit card?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136769
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167042
Looking at these two, any thoughts before I pull the trigger on the old credit card?
opticalmace
Member
WD blue is not worth it, go for a black or better yet the samsung spinpoint f3. ssd should be good AFAIK.scoobs said:
Chiggs
Gold Member
Let's talk about overrated and underrated hardware companies. Ready?
Overrated
1.) EVGA - there was a time when this company had the gold standard of support. That time has passed. Going for an RMA now means spending a ridiculous amount of time on back and forth sessions with their stellar tech support and rolling your eyes as they blame your RAM and PSU and whatever they can before owning up to a faulty product. Lame!
2.) Asus - don't get me wrong, I still love these guys, but the firmware issues with their mobos have gotten progressively worse over time. They're not bad; they're just becoming more and more mediocre over time.
3.) Corsair - the way some of the fanboys swear by these products, you'd think they were crafted by some divine entity. Pfftt, whatever. Their RAM is the very definition of overrated and their PSU's, while good, are remarkably overpriced.
4.) Artic Silver - I want to puke when I hear people raving about Artic Silver. "OMG - IT LOWERED MY TEMPS BY 20! My pc wouldn't even boot up before I lathered it up with this godly goo!" Shut up!
5.) Lian Li - your luxury cases are so damn overpriced, and Silvestone is really starting to best you in so many different ways. Get your act together. You're not the Lian Li of 2003 anymore; meaning, you're just another case maker. Fractal, Coolermaster, Silverstone, Antec and Thermaltake are kicking your ass.
Underrated
1.) Gigabyte: - Outstanding products - tech support is excellent. I can't say enough about these guys.
Overrated
1.) EVGA - there was a time when this company had the gold standard of support. That time has passed. Going for an RMA now means spending a ridiculous amount of time on back and forth sessions with their stellar tech support and rolling your eyes as they blame your RAM and PSU and whatever they can before owning up to a faulty product. Lame!
2.) Asus - don't get me wrong, I still love these guys, but the firmware issues with their mobos have gotten progressively worse over time. They're not bad; they're just becoming more and more mediocre over time.
3.) Corsair - the way some of the fanboys swear by these products, you'd think they were crafted by some divine entity. Pfftt, whatever. Their RAM is the very definition of overrated and their PSU's, while good, are remarkably overpriced.
4.) Artic Silver - I want to puke when I hear people raving about Artic Silver. "OMG - IT LOWERED MY TEMPS BY 20! My pc wouldn't even boot up before I lathered it up with this godly goo!" Shut up!
5.) Lian Li - your luxury cases are so damn overpriced, and Silvestone is really starting to best you in so many different ways. Get your act together. You're not the Lian Li of 2003 anymore; meaning, you're just another case maker. Fractal, Coolermaster, Silverstone, Antec and Thermaltake are kicking your ass.
Underrated
1.) Gigabyte: - Outstanding products - tech support is excellent. I can't say enough about these guys.
Chiggs said:
Agree on some points, disagree on others.
- Corsair PSUs...their PSUs are reliable, among some of the best tested, have a great design (bottom mounted fan, long cables, nice sleeving). If you wanted to have a point here, I'd argue that their good PSUs tend to be rebrands from other brands such as Seasonic. They are pretty fairly priced...there aren't really any PSUs that properly compete with their TX650 and TX750. The Seasonic X750 and X850 are usually a little better priced than the Corsair AX750 and AX850, but the Corsairs look nicer (especially the cables) and have 2 more years of warranty coverage, so it evens itself out for me. I will say that I feel that Corsair's quality is fading overall, though.
- Gigabyte...while I've had great luck with these guys, and I absolutely love their 1155 motherboard design, my confidence with their GPUs is a little shaken with all of the problems people had with their GTX 460s. Also, their GPU design is still blue and ugly...they need to update them and make them look awesome like their motherboards.
- Lian-Li...they do seem to be extremely overpriced for what they are, and the aluminum they use is incredibly thin and flimsy when compared to some of the Silverstone cases...but they do have a lot of variety in their case design, so they're not all bad.
- Asus...from what my friend has told me, their support is absolutely horrendous. I love their new GPUs, but their motherboards still reboot twice when forcing an overclock, which is annoying. Can't say much else...they're fairly reliable overall, though probably a little too often recommended considering the viable alternatives, most notably MSI and Gigabyte.
- Arctic Silver...this is usually just people recalling the name being shouted a lot around 5 years ago. Better pastes have certainly come out since, most notably the MX-4 by Arctic themselves.
I would add to the overrated list:
Antec. Completely redundant manufacturer right now, with terribly outdated designs in everything they do.
Chiggs said:
I agree about Lian Li and Arctic Silver. As far as Corsair, I think the only thing overrated out of them is their PSUs. They're still above average PSUs though and they have great support.
Totally disagree about eVGA, I've never once had an issue with their customer support. We just did an RMA on a 560 Ti we put in a friend's build and the process was same as ever. Took no time at all.
Don't really use many ASUS products to speak to any motherboard issues, but I like their video cards and monitors.
I'll say eVGA is overrated simply because GPU warranties longer than 3 years are pretty useless, and eVGA refuses to use better aftermarket cooling designs.
I really don't see Corsair's PSUs as being overrated though...what comparable PSUs can you buy in North America in the price range?
I really don't see Corsair's PSUs as being overrated though...what comparable PSUs can you buy in North America in the price range?
opticalmace
Member
sorry let me be more clear now that i read your post better.scoobs said:
the blue is not a bad deal but personally i would spring for the faster drives (f3 or black). i'd have to look up benchmarks but the f3/black are considered quick drives, blue middle of the road. for myself i would spend the extra for the f3 instead of the blue.
it's totally up to you, since you're getting an ssd anyway, but i assume you won't be able to get everything on the ssd you want. for me i would pay for the extra for quicker file operations for stuff i couldn't fit on the ssd.
black_vegeta
Member
The Artic Silver statement from Chiggs had me rolling, "Godly Goo."
LULZ
LULZ
opticalmace said:
You're usually talking about a difference of like 5-10% in terms of sequential speeds...not really worth getting worked up about. If anything, the Blue drives should have greater reliability, so they're not really a bad choice.
edit: oh, he's getting a 500GB drive...yeah well those will be slower on the account of having much smaller platters. I'd probably spring for a 1TB F3 or a 2TB F4 instead.
IMO, for $25 less, get:
Intel 320 120GB - $220
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...167050&cm_re=intel_320-_-20-167-050-_-Product
Samsung F4 2TB - $80
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...52245&cm_re=samsung_f4-_-22-152-245-_-Product
Forkball said:
Definitely the SSD. Right now OCZ and the Sandforce 2200 controllers have the performance edge, but Intel is always going to be the most reliable and have the best software and tools.
The 510 has gotten some good marks for it's garbage collection, so a RAID configuration down the line isn't a bad upgrade path.
My only problem is that 120 GB is still a bit small. You will have to nurse and monitor what you are installing. If you are a Steam gamer, it can be a pain in the ass to try and have your games install across different drives.
TheExodu5 said:
I think Corsair does well in their price range. When I say overrated, I mean people recommend them as the performance leaders in their wattage and I'd put them like 5th or 6th. I'd take probably the entire Antec TPN line over any of Corsair's PSUs in that watt range because the prices are close enough.
I'd always get the 320 over the 510. The 510 wins in sequential speeds, but loses in random speeds, and also doesn't have the proven reliability of the Intel controller (as the 510 uses a Marvell controller). The 320 is also much cheaper. You might notice a small difference in game loading times, but that's it. The 320 is still pretty much as fast as any of the last gen Sandforce drives, but with the proven reliability of the X-25M. Good deal.
Antec still hasn't adopted bottom mounted PSU fans though, have they?
Wallach said:
Antec still hasn't adopted bottom mounted PSU fans though, have they?
Chiggs
Gold Member
TheExodu5 said:
I honestly feel that CoolerMaster is the better bang for the buck when it comes to PSUs. I use them nearly exclusively now. Also, Thermaltake has some outstanding PSUs.
And, of course, PC Power and Cooling. Actually, I probably should have added them onto the list of Overrated...or maybe just overpriced.
TheExodu5 said:
I actually like their PSUs quite a bit...and some of their cases are actually really well made. Aesthetically? Not so much.
Chiggs said:
They are so incredibly behind on case designs when compared to Cooler Master and Silverstone.
There's not a single Antec case I'd recommend, beyond the 300 if you can get it for really cheap, or maybe the P183 if the Fractal Define R3 isn't to your liking.
The Lanboy seems to be okay in terms of design, but it's the ugliest case I've seen in a long time, and very overpriced to boot.
They used to be case leaders with cases like the Sonata, P180 series, and Antec Fusion cases. They really have not evolved since those days, and let me tell you, cases have come a very long way in the last 5 years.
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