black_vegeta
Member
I have the Noctua DH-14 awaiting installation, but with all these Cooler Master 212 praises lately I'm starting to second guess my purchase. Did I choose correctly?
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Teknopathetic
Member
"I have the Noctua DH-14 awaiting installation, but with all these Cooler Master 212 praises lately I'm starting to second guess my purchase. Did I choose correctly?"
The Cooler Master 212 praise is well deserved, but it's praise is due to its performance in its price range. The Noctua is unquestionably a better heatsink, as are most respectable products in the Noctua's price range.
The Cooler Master 212 praise is well deserved, but it's praise is due to its performance in its price range. The Noctua is unquestionably a better heatsink, as are most respectable products in the Noctua's price range.
Chiggs said:
Like I said, it's their only case that seems to be good and modern in terms of design. Can't fault you for liking that one.
From what I've seen, the Three Hundred and Nine Hundred Two are fairly well made, but man they are just not fun to work with at all. Cooler Master, Silverstone, and Corsair are the current case leaders, IMO (and we'll include Lian-Li just because they do also create some fairly interesting esoteric designs).
black_vegeta said:
Meh. That's a beast cooler as well.
I opened up my case and put the pump from the H70 on the CPU_FAN header and the fans around the radiator on the CHA_FAN1 header. So now at least the fans will move in accordance with the needs of the CPU.
Still have the hyper 212 in the box. I REALLY don't want to take out everything and install this sumbitch :/
black_vegeta
Member
Thanks for the reassurance fellas. 
TheExodu5 said:
If he has SATA III ports he'd be crazy not to go with the 510. And the controller is only part of it. The 510 uses Intel's own 34nm NAND, versus the 320's Intel 25nm NAND.
That said I'd wait for the rest of the Sandforce 2200 drives to hit the market and get some downward pressure on OCZ. Corsair Force 3 should be out early next month.
I know I've been in here asking some questions but now I have a bit more clarity on what I'm going to do and I need some advice. My uncle is going to be helping me get a new computer as a college graduation gift sine my laptop died, I'm on an iPad right now, and I'd like to build a decent gaming rig. However, he's not too keen on letting me build it myself. Are there any places aside from Alienware that I could get a decent video card paired with a good processor? Every place I've seen only has crappy video cards paired with good other components. I'm considering buying a prebuilt XPS or so,something and just upgrading the video card myself. Any advice or a heads up on good deals would be awesome.
TheExodu5 said:
I have no idea about their newer stuff. I don't think the TX series is bottom mounted either. Can't say I pay a lot of attention.
I agree about Antec as a whole. Given that the 300 is priced what it is now, I think those TPN PSUs are probably the only thing with their label that I'd actually recommend anymore.
Build it yourself. I configured an Apple iMac and an Alienware today to a build that I'm building for my friend. They both cost at least 2x the price of my configuration.RoboPlato said:
Otherwise, use Dell Outlet as sometimes they have deals on desktop machines and you could simply just swap the power supply and graphics card for something better.
TheExodu5 said:
No I haven't.
To be honest I don't really want to lol. At this point I just want to play my games. I've sort of come to the conclusion that my temps are ok...not the best and could probably be better (under load...my idle temps are fine). But I do have the 212 sitting here for when I change my mind.
Wallach said:
All of Corsair's and Cooler Master PSUs are bottom mounted, I believe. The TX series, at least, is.
Looks like the TP and part of the HCP series have bottom mounted fans.
Also, the TP series appears to be more expensive than the Corsair TX series.
Smokey said:
Meh...then leave it be and don't worry about it.
I'm running on a B2 motherboard because I didn't want to bother doing the exchange. If it stops working on my at some point, I'll worry about it then. Chances are it'll be fine, however.
I'm trying to sell him on the idea of me building it but he's convinced I can't do it properly and that not having a warranty on the machine is bad plus my i5/6950 build is a little bit pricier than he would like once the monitor is factored in.claviertekky said:
j2theizzay
Member
Finally ordered the last few pieces for my build. I bought some pieces while on sale, so the cost is a lot less than what is shown. It will look like this:
I'll be adding in my gigabyte gtx 460 for sli goodness.
I'll be adding in my gigabyte gtx 460 for sli goodness.
I think you just add this to your cart with the rest of your items: http://www.ncixus.com/products/7842/PC-ASSEMBLY/NCIXPC/RoboPlato said:
dgenx
Made an agreement with another GAF member, refused to honor it because he was broke, but then had no problem continuing to buy video games.
for the new page: now magically playing witcher 2 just get me to 70 Oc not 77oC anymore!
but I still have th doubt why my pc cant boot when I OC the cpu at 3.6 or more... with 3.5 it fails with Prime so now is 3.4...
maybe it has to do with my mobo...cooling I dont know..
but I still have th doubt why my pc cant boot when I OC the cpu at 3.6 or more... with 3.5 it fails with Prime so now is 3.4...
maybe it has to do with my mobo...cooling I dont know..
What mobo do you have? Current voltages?dgenx said:for the new page: now magically playing witcher 2 just get me to 70 Oc not 77oC anymore!
but I still have th doubt why my pc cant boot when I OC the cpu at 3.6 or more... with 3.5 it fails with Prime so now is 3.4...
maybe it has to do with my mobo...cooling I dont know..
dgenx
Made an agreement with another GAF member, refused to honor it because he was broke, but then had no problem continuing to buy video games.
claviertekky said:
I have a shitty DH55TC
it really isnt a mobo made for OCwith that mobo you can only change the clock, and the memories voltage which is 1.5 now
Guys, Antec's stagnant case design is exactly why I removed the 300 from recommendations, and will likely supplant the 902 once a certain case goes on sale soon.
The 300 has the build quality of a ~$60+ case, and the features of a ~$25-40 case. Strangely enough, it balanced out, but once they raised the price into the ~$60 bracket, it just falls short of options from other brands. Antec's refusal to make simple, needed changes (the V3 revisions aren't enough), that are fairly inexpensive, is puzzling.
Even the P183 (and other P1 variants) starts to look its age compared to something like a FD Define XL. Both have their share of positives and negatives, though the Define XL has a lot going for it. Was hoping I could get some hands on time with an XL before anything.
Looking for some suitable enclosures to come out of Computex.
2.) Asus - What can you say? Asus is a victim of their own success in some regards. Quality has declined. That's partly due to Asus restructuring a few times, going with an OEM (for some of its models) that isn't exactly known for quality, and the fact that they are directly competing with old Asus employees who are now making non-Asus branded products.
3.) Corsair - Hard to argue with their overall support/service. I do find it strange how they have a near Apple/Nintendo-like following with some. You know, the type to blindly buy any and all Corsair products despite the fact that you can often get equal or better price/performance elsewhere.
4.) Artic Silver - Name recognition is king. People take comfort in set brands and most don't stray once they're locked in. But we all knew that already.
5.) Lian Li - TheExodu5 has to be one of the few who regularly mentions their material quality with certain products, and that's a bit surprising. A lot of users still think of Lian Li as the best in aluminum when you have companies from Japan, Korea, various Euro, and other nations, that have equal or better options. Thing is, LL has resources that most can't compete with.
The 300 has the build quality of a ~$60+ case, and the features of a ~$25-40 case. Strangely enough, it balanced out, but once they raised the price into the ~$60 bracket, it just falls short of options from other brands. Antec's refusal to make simple, needed changes (the V3 revisions aren't enough), that are fairly inexpensive, is puzzling.
Even the P183 (and other P1 variants) starts to look its age compared to something like a FD Define XL. Both have their share of positives and negatives, though the Define XL has a lot going for it. Was hoping I could get some hands on time with an XL before anything.
Looking for some suitable enclosures to come out of Computex.
1.) EVGA - Isn't the lifetime warranty an even bigger selling point than their CS/TS? Seems like they're switching more and more products over to limited warranties, though, possibly in an effort to avoid becoming the next BFG.Chiggs said:
2.) Asus - What can you say? Asus is a victim of their own success in some regards. Quality has declined. That's partly due to Asus restructuring a few times, going with an OEM (for some of its models) that isn't exactly known for quality, and the fact that they are directly competing with old Asus employees who are now making non-Asus branded products.
3.) Corsair - Hard to argue with their overall support/service. I do find it strange how they have a near Apple/Nintendo-like following with some. You know, the type to blindly buy any and all Corsair products despite the fact that you can often get equal or better price/performance elsewhere.
4.) Artic Silver - Name recognition is king. People take comfort in set brands and most don't stray once they're locked in. But we all knew that already.
5.) Lian Li - TheExodu5 has to be one of the few who regularly mentions their material quality with certain products, and that's a bit surprising. A lot of users still think of Lian Li as the best in aluminum when you have companies from Japan, Korea, various Euro, and other nations, that have equal or better options. Thing is, LL has resources that most can't compete with.
Your board isn't built for doing anything near a 4GHz 24/7 OC with that CPU.dgenx said:I have a shitty DH55TCdgenx said:
with that mobo you can only change the clock, and the memories voltage which is 1.5 now
Your stability issues are almost certain down to its limited power and cooling. Even with a crap chip, a better board will bear better results.
·feist· said:
To be fair, I have not seen their $300+ cases first hand. However a lot of their ~$150 mid towers just feel really cheap and flimsy when compared to the Silverstone cases. The aluminum just seems to be a lot thinner than I would have hoped. A few of them even creaked as you pushed against the sides.
I haven't owned one, so I can't really say more than that. I'm just speaking of what I've seen when comparing display models at CanadaComputers.
I would really like to see and build a PC with an X900. I'm very intrigued by that particular case. The V1020 as well...though they don't offer a fully black version.
TheExodu5 said:
A few years ago when we built my brother's rig he chose a Lian Li (I have no idea what model, but looking at Newegg it reminds me of the PC-9F visually) and I felt the same way. It was way lighter than I expected and made from some very thin parts. I did not like it nearly as much as I thought I would.
claviertekky said:
I do, though many don't. The main reason I prefer Gigabyte over the Asus is that it doesn't have to start up twice when overclocking. The Asus boards can't go into sleep mode when overclocking either, while the Gigabyte boards can. The Asus boards have the benefit of UEFI (not really important, IMO, since most of us wouldn't run a >4TB OS HDD), a GUI BIOS, and extra SATA ports. The new Z68 Gigabyte boards look awesome as well. Completely black.
opticalmace
Member
I do but just for anecdotal reasons.claviertekky said:
my PC has been crashing over the last week in odd ways. i was hoping someone here had some ideas. (if this is not the right thread for it ill repost elsewhere)
last week while my wife was playing LORTO the screen went black, then the monitor displays a "no signal" message and goes blank. the system stayed on, lights and fans still working, but no picture our sound. CRTL ALT DEL does nothing. i think the system restarted itself eventually.
since then its been happening more frequently. at first it was just while playing games, now it happens with no real strain (checking email etc). i updated video drivers and it seemed stable for a day or two, then started again. i swapped my video card for an old one and it crashed after 15 minutes. so im guessing its not a GPU or a GPU driver issue.
most of the time it crashes and just stays like that until i hard power it down. it occasionaly restarts itself. a few times it does a startup repair routine. the last day or so it crashes as its booting. sometimes i can log in and it will run for a bit and then crashes again (it seems to work a little better if it remains shut off for a while. could just be coincidence).
so it doesnt seem like a GPU or graphics driver issue. im guessing its not a power issue, because the power stays on during and after the crash. everything in the case seems cool enough and its not too dusty, so it doesnt appear to be an overheating issue.
im just not sure what to look for at this point. id appreciate suggestions on where to start.
thanks.
last week while my wife was playing LORTO the screen went black, then the monitor displays a "no signal" message and goes blank. the system stayed on, lights and fans still working, but no picture our sound. CRTL ALT DEL does nothing. i think the system restarted itself eventually.
since then its been happening more frequently. at first it was just while playing games, now it happens with no real strain (checking email etc). i updated video drivers and it seemed stable for a day or two, then started again. i swapped my video card for an old one and it crashed after 15 minutes. so im guessing its not a GPU or a GPU driver issue.
most of the time it crashes and just stays like that until i hard power it down. it occasionaly restarts itself. a few times it does a startup repair routine. the last day or so it crashes as its booting. sometimes i can log in and it will run for a bit and then crashes again (it seems to work a little better if it remains shut off for a while. could just be coincidence).
so it doesnt seem like a GPU or graphics driver issue. im guessing its not a power issue, because the power stays on during and after the crash. everything in the case seems cool enough and its not too dusty, so it doesnt appear to be an overheating issue.
im just not sure what to look for at this point. id appreciate suggestions on where to start.
thanks.
What Gigabyte board should I purchase for the P67 chipset then?TheExodu5 said:I do, though many don't. The main reason I prefer Gigabyte over the Asus is that it doesn't have to start up twice when overclocking. The Asus boards can't go into sleep mode when overclocking either, while the Gigabyte boards can. The Asus boards have the benefit of UEFI (not really important, IMO, since most of us wouldn't run a >4TB OS HDD), a GUI BIOS, and extra SATA ports. The new Z68 Gigabyte boards look awesome as well. Completely black.
I saw this one, but it looks bad. Is that user error?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...k=GA-P67A-UD3-B3 LGA 1155 P67 ATX Motherboard
claviertekky said:
The board is fine.
But...yeah. Sadly, only the P67 UD4 boards or Z68 UD3 and up boards look nice.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...493&cm_re=gigabyte_z68-_-13-128-493-_-Product
Should keep an eye on your vcore, among other things.dgenx said:
Yeah, I'd like to try out a black/black V1020. All they had to do was combine the interior from the red, with the black's exterior.TheExodu5 said:To be fair, I have not seen their $300+ cases first hand. However a lot of their ~$150 mid towers just feel really cheap and flimsy when compared to the Silverstone cases. The aluminum just seems to be a lot thinner than I would have hoped. A few of them even creaked as you pushed against the sides.
I haven't owned one, so I can't really say more than that. I'm just speaking of what I've seen when comparing display models at CanadaComputers.
I would really like to see and build a PC with an X900. I'm very intrigued by that particular case. The V1020 as well...though they don't offer a fully black version.
I meant I was surprised that you were one of the few to notice/mention the cost cutting on some models. Apparently, LL has better aluminum access (to go along with know how) than a lot of companies, so that helps. Still, it's obvious that everyone is trying to compensate for the rising material cost. Like switching to countries such as China for manufacturing, instead of building in their home countries. SilverStone has solid alu grade, and better treatments than some, but even they're using more steel and/or upping MSRPs.
claviertekky said:
They'll both be fine for overclocking. Unless you're pushing past 5GHz, even the cheapest boards will do just fine.
Like I said, the two main reasons I prefer the Gigabyte are that it doesn't power up twice when booting an OC'ed CPU, and it can go to sleep mode (though only if you enable a certain feature through its Windows software).
Smokey said:
Either SteamTool Library Manager or manually creating symbolic links yourself.
claviertekky said:
As far as I can tell. I haven't really seen any major issues from either manufacturer lately. Maybe someone else is aware of issues that I haven't heard of yet.
dgenx
Made an agreement with another GAF member, refused to honor it because he was broke, but then had no problem continuing to buy video games.
·feist· said:
wat? but is such a mild OC, idle my cpu gets 39oC , when playing it gets 70oC , I ran prime for 3 hours and no problem, what things should I be worried about? I cant believe the Mobo is so bad!
Fredescu said:
To be honest, I didn't notice...didn't use one. That is kind of handy.
I'll check my box tomorrow, out of curiosity.
My old Asus came with one as well, though I hadn't noticed there either and didn't use it.
dgenx said:
Well, older CPUs (prior to Sandy Bridge) generally overclock by raising the BCLK...and that can be somewhat motherboard dependent. You may have gotten a bad motherboard...luck of the draw. My old Asus P5B-E sucked at overclocking. I couldn't get it past 400MHz, even though plenty of people got theirs to ~450MHz.
Either Asus or Gigabyte is fine, though. Just go with whichever suits you best.
If you like the look of one better, or if you do/don't mind the double restart thing, or if you do/don't mind the no sleep, or if you do/don't mind the lack of a GUI BIOS. Trade-offs.
I'd like to see MSI's boards in action...they're very well priced.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571&cm_re=msi_p67-_-13-130-571-_-Product
If you like the look of one better, or if you do/don't mind the double restart thing, or if you do/don't mind the no sleep, or if you do/don't mind the lack of a GUI BIOS. Trade-offs.
I'd like to see MSI's boards in action...they're very well priced.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571&cm_re=msi_p67-_-13-130-571-_-Product
IIRC, you don't want the mobo to control the pump. The pump should NEVER be undervolted, and can cause reliability and cooling issues.Smokey said:
@Lian Li discussion
While Silverstone products have gotten to the point where they're almost as good, they still don't compete in aesthetics (IMO), and all those little touches like perfectly rounded corners and the like. Its like the BMW of the computer case world. Probably more expensive than it should be, but totally worth it if money is no object.
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