whatsinaname
Member
jling84 said:
I would not recommend 4850 in CF. Too much hassle. You will need to find game specific fixes and tweaks in some scenarios. A single 6950/560 would be much better.
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
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I would not recommend 4850 in CF. Too much hassle. You will need to find game specific fixes and tweaks in some scenarios. A single 6950/560 would be much better.
voady said:cpu-cooler:
Scythe Mugen 2. Rev B. (With Core I5 2500k with ASUS P8P67 Rev 3.0)
what do you think about it?
Thank you very much in advance
i have that same cpu/motherboard and i just installed my scythe mugen 2 on it a week ago. my temperatures went from ~38-39 to ~32 on idle using only the stock fan. my room temp is 80 F, so take that into account.
i'm happy with the it so far, although it was a bitch to install...simply because its so big. i originally had the stock intel heatsink and so i had to take out the mb from my case to put it in because the back cutout of my case for the cpu didn't match up with the holes for the motherboard.
Buggy Loop
Gold Member
I've got a OCZ Vertex 2 SSD since octover, never really thought about it but, are there practices or things to turn off in windows 7 to have the ssd last the longest possible? Anything enabled by default that can lower its lifespan? I thought it was no longer a problem with Trim support but maybe its not that easy..
evil solrac v3.0
Member
is there a real performance jump from a vanilla GTX 580 with 1.5 gigs of RAM and the new 3GB models? I really liked the MSI twin frozr one (and the cooling solution it comes with) but it seems silly to sell my current cards to upgrade for 1.5 gigs of RAM.
More computex craziness from Lian Li:
http://www.engadget.com/photos/lian-li-pc-u6-cowry-desktop-case-hands-on/#4181121
http://www.engadget.com/photos/lian-li-pc-u6-cowry-desktop-case-hands-on/#4181121
Computex is always one of the best shows. Looking forward to getting some personal hands on and impressions from some of the stuff on display.
http://www.computing.net/howtos/show/solid-state-drive-ssd-tweaks-for-windows-7/552.html
http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/wind...ive-down-to-size/2941?tag=mantle_skin;content
http://schinagl.priv.at/nt/hardlinkshellext/hardlinkshellext.html
http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/wind...ow-fast-are-they/2902?tag=mantle_skin;content
http://www.microcenter.com/at_the_stores/index.html
Some info on setup, tweaks, and symbolic links:Buggy Loop said:
http://www.computing.net/howtos/show/solid-state-drive-ssd-tweaks-for-windows-7/552.html
http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/wind...ive-down-to-size/2941?tag=mantle_skin;content
http://schinagl.priv.at/nt/hardlinkshellext/hardlinkshellext.html
http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/wind...ow-fast-are-they/2902?tag=mantle_skin;content
Do you live near a Micro Center?Ryusei said:Im back! Sorry nilbog for not being there for you when you needed me the most.
Since I have had more time I decided to add on a couple things. Every thing I am about to list is what I plan on buying. Unless these are not ideal for my main purpose, which is gaming. (Specifically Witcher 2 + all the multiplayer games I frequent on steam) I would appreciate feedback/critiques.
(Apologies once again if this is a hassle for people to navigate through)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233 - Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130275 - MOBO
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102921 - GPU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371044 - PSU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220480 - RAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808 - CPU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136073 - HDD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009299 - Monitor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166022 - Dongle
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118040 - CD/DVD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823107120 - Keyboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104178 - Mouse
http://www.microcenter.com/at_the_stores/index.html
new Nvidia drivers came out today ...275.33 WHQL.
http://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-us
just in case anyone missed it.
http://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-us
just in case anyone missed it.
Syphon Filter
Member
·feist· said:Check whether or not that EVGA has a lifetime warranty, and, if so, who would handle it in your country (EVGA, or a local third party). If it's a standard warranty, you may want to look into a 560 Ti with a better cooling system, like MSI, Asus, Sparkle, etc.
The Mugen 2 is a good HSF. Just watch out for the sharp edges, and know that installing it can be a pain.
Otherwise, it looks fine.
He doesn't, actually. That's an 80+ Silver FSP-built unit. I'm not familiar with its specific performance, but as long as it has enough amps he has more than enough room to overclock. A better built, and/or higher efficiency model may cost more than what he's looking to spend.
Going by the photo below, your PSU comes with two of the cables on the far right. Connect the smaller end to your fans, and connect the larger, 4 pin molex end to one of the 3 cables in the second row from the left. The cables in the second row from the left plug directly into your PSU.
The case i have is this and it is a molex for the fans,not the small one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Image...SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Could have saved a good amount of money. Don't mean to increase your tally, but a wireless N adapter would probably serve you better. Most people swear by plug in PCIe cards, though a good USB option is also fine.Ryusei said:
If you intend to overclock, you'll want to either buy better motherboard, or modify that MSI.
Even simpler. Plug the case fans directly into the black molex cables that plug into the PSU. If reaching all the fans is an issue, you can either use more than one of the three included molex cables, or just get an extension. You can get a nice sleeved extension in black or any other color, though a basic non-sleeved extension is cheaper and just as good.Syphon Filter said:
That way, you'll have one less PSU cable inside your case.
yellow submarine
Member
I currently have an i7 920 (2.6GHz) and a GTX275 combination. If I get a sandybridge upgrade, I will need a new motherboard as well. I want to be able to run Shogun 2 at a higher quality level/more fps. Should I even bother upgrading my processor?
Also, what is the latest story with the Nvidia cards. Is ATI a better value right now? I am just getting started on "refreshing" my knowledge base from 2009 about all this and wanted some quick updates on how everything has shifted since then. Back then the GTX275 was at a nice price/perf inflection point and I am looking for it's equivalent today. I got it for about $260 back then (I will start looking at similarly priced GPUs I guess, that seems to be the best starting point for me).
Also, what is the latest story with the Nvidia cards. Is ATI a better value right now? I am just getting started on "refreshing" my knowledge base from 2009 about all this and wanted some quick updates on how everything has shifted since then. Back then the GTX275 was at a nice price/perf inflection point and I am looking for it's equivalent today. I got it for about $260 back then (I will start looking at similarly priced GPUs I guess, that seems to be the best starting point for me).
Looking for good external HDD
I'm just popping in to get some suggestions on the above. I'm looking for a 3TB harddrive to get, but all the ones on Newegg seem to break far more often than they should. Is there a particularly reliable (and hopefully not pricey) HDD I can get somewhere? Hopefully for 3TB, but if not, then I can settle for a lower disk space (which seem far more reliable, according to reviews on newegg). Thank you.
I'm just popping in to get some suggestions on the above. I'm looking for a 3TB harddrive to get, but all the ones on Newegg seem to break far more often than they should. Is there a particularly reliable (and hopefully not pricey) HDD I can get somewhere? Hopefully for 3TB, but if not, then I can settle for a lower disk space (which seem far more reliable, according to reviews on newegg). Thank you.
yellow submarine
Member
TheExodu5 said:
Hmm ok. I was going to get the processor at a bitchin' price point, but even then I'd have to drop another $100 for a motherboard upgrade, so if it's all the same then it doesn't make sense.
Now from looking at GPUs, there seems to be a hole in Nvidia's lineup between the GTX560 and 570.. one's at $184 and the other is $364. Or my newegg-fu has waned, I'll keep looking. Not sure if I want to go ATI again, last time I did I got majorly burned with driver f-ups.
What Wallach said. If you're considering saving money on a 560 basic, you may want to consider buying a non-SE GTX 460 1GB and overclocking it yourself.yellow submarine said:
Externals can be an issue. You may want to consider getting a good 2-3TB bare drive, and dropping it into a decent external enclosure. Prices should be roughly equal, or lower than an outright external. You'll also avoid some of the lower spec HDDs that can be found in some outright externals.Generic said:
yellow submarine
Member
Wallach said:
Son of a bitch. I hated when they pulled that Ti bullshit back in the day and I see they've brought it back for great financial success. They should really make this much easier -- but then that would mean people who don't do a disseration on GPU naming schemes might actually save themselves from getting fleeced. So they won't.
*grumble grumble*
*pays Nvidia anyway*
*grumble*
MidgarBlowedUp
Member
Zimbardo said:
Ah. thanks. The last betas really solved a lot of scaling issues for my htpc.
SneakyStephan
Banned
Ok what the fuck.
So I noticed my pc has been unusually noisy (normally whisper quiet) ,like... load temp noisy for the last week or so.
It finally starts to really get to me, so I take a look at CCC, and my gpu fan is running at 21 percent fanspeed.
I'm like oh no you don't, I click the manual fan control checkbox, want to turn it down : DERP : the lowest is 20 percent in the new CCC.
So what gives? My 4870 always sailed along at a nice 10-15 percent when idle (23-25 percent load)and was awesomely quiet, now it's like mfucking perma furmark.
Am I going to have to go back to an older driver and CCC version or what?
I upgraded my drivers and ccc version a week ago and now I realise the noise started right then and there.
This really pisses me off... because AMD decides to shit out 40nm 300 watt TDP sidegrades every 6 months they fuck with the fanspeeds of my card?
@ wallach: I'm 100% sure of it being 10-15 percent before (way under 20) , I checked it many times over the past 3 years , at load it ran at low fanspeeds too.
It's the rev. 2 cooler (big heatsink , heatpipes etc , design like the vapor x coolers that dump heat in your case) and I've always been happy with the low noise.
The now excessive noise for idle is there to accompany the higher fanspeed so I'm definitely not imagining things.
So I noticed my pc has been unusually noisy (normally whisper quiet) ,like... load temp noisy for the last week or so.
It finally starts to really get to me, so I take a look at CCC, and my gpu fan is running at 21 percent fanspeed.
I'm like oh no you don't, I click the manual fan control checkbox, want to turn it down : DERP : the lowest is 20 percent in the new CCC.
So what gives? My 4870 always sailed along at a nice 10-15 percent when idle (23-25 percent load)and was awesomely quiet, now it's like mfucking perma furmark.
Am I going to have to go back to an older driver and CCC version or what?
I upgraded my drivers and ccc version a week ago and now I realise the noise started right then and there.
This really pisses me off... because AMD decides to shit out 40nm 300 watt TDP sidegrades every 6 months they fuck with the fanspeeds of my card?
@ wallach: I'm 100% sure of it being 10-15 percent before (way under 20) , I checked it many times over the past 3 years , at load it ran at low fanspeeds too.
It's the rev. 2 cooler (big heatsink , heatpipes etc , design like the vapor x coolers that dump heat in your case) and I've always been happy with the low noise.
The now excessive noise for idle is there to accompany the higher fanspeed so I'm definitely not imagining things.
SneakyStephan said:
Haven't heard of a card going lower than 20% fanspeed in a long ass time. I don't think this is anything new on the part of CCC.
Edit - You would have to go back to like Cata 8.8 or something to be able to create a fan profile that would allow slower fan speeds.
Don't upgrade drivers for older cards. Seriously. Performance upgrades are usually minor or nonexistant on older cards, and you're just as likely to introduce new unwanted behavior. I learned a while ago not to upgrade drivers unless I needed to. NVidia's screwed me over enough times.
Probably an issue similar to mine...the fix for this was to go to the color settings window, and set content type reporting to "desktop content" only.
MidgarBlowedUp said:
Probably an issue similar to mine...the fix for this was to go to the color settings window, and set content type reporting to "desktop content" only.
SneakyStephan
Banned
TheExodu5 said:
=( well the new drivers promised a nice performance increase in dirt 3, I tried it (not expecting anything really because my card is prehistoric in ATI support years) and it did indeed up my performance by like 20-30 percent (dirt 3 benchmark).
Can I rollback to an old CCC version and use the new drivers with it? Or do the drivers also control the fan profile.
Ati used to do this whole package/seperate driver thing right?
@ wallach, I was on 10.8 or something, with the previous CCC GUI.
I never needed the custom fanspeed option because my card automatically throttled back to 500mhz core and the low fanspeed in idle. (it still throttles back the core but not the fanspeed...).
So I'm not sure what the lowest possible custom fanspeed was before.
I guess the lower limit is to idiot proof things, but the automatic profile was smart enough to throttle it back.
Besides my card only ran at 50 degrees idle at that low fanspeed anyhow.
Even still, it's fairly straight forward.Generic said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HwTmevglkM
I grabbed the first video that came up. There are others at the link.
Part of the reason people have so much trouble with externals comes down to the additional parts involved, and the fact that some users move them around quite a bit. More parts=more chance of issues. A lot of it is user error, though you can just have a problem where the enclosure has an electrical issue, even while the HDD itself works fine. Even basic things like connectors failing, or coming loose.
Lower spec HDDs are sometimes used to save cost. You find things like lower speed, or density, and stock that isn't refreshed as quickly as internal HDDs.
Also, some enclosures are just bad, and suffer from issues like poor ventilation.
BTW, an inexpensive HDD dock could be a better option than an external, or what I suggested earlier. No tech know how involved. Just connect it to your PC, swap HDDs whenever you need to, and keep buying less costly internal HDDs to use with the same dock. Basic plug and play.
Ryusei said:
Something like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=asus_wireless_n_pci-e-_-33-320-048-_-Product
B-Dex said:
I wouldn't be doing SLI in a case like the Define. You could do it, but it's going to be very toasty in there.
The HAF 922 would probably be my recommendation for a very easy to work with case, with tons of room, and more than enough cooling for an SLI setup. You can pick up a 200mm Cooler Master fan for the side panel down the road if you want to.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119197&cm_re=haf_922-_-11-119-197-_-Product
+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...oler_master_200_mm_fan-_-35-103-072-_-Product
·feist· said:
Alright, thank you. The dock seems a bit too bulky for my space, but getting a bare HDD with an enclosure, if it's safer, seems like the optimal choice.
Edit: Would these 2 be a good combo?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145493
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182155
It's not too hard, but installing a 212+ does require access to the back of the motherboard to place a backplate... if your case's mobo tray has a cutout allowing access to the back of the board then you can install it after the mobo's already in there. Otherwise, you have to install it when the mobo is out of the case, so it'd be easier to do it before putting in all of the components.Ryusei said:
TheExodu5 said:If you really are running out of budget, then yeah, it can wait. Keep the mouse.
Alright good haha. Other than a possible motherboard upgrade the build suits my needs?
I am getting more nervous about the actual building process as my order date gets closer.
So this is what I am leaning towards now:
Case: CM 690 II Advance or HAF 932 Advance
Mobo: Gigabyte Z68 UD4
CPU: i5 2500k
Vid Card:msi GTX 560ti Twin Frozr
RAM: 8GB
PSU: Corsair HX750W
HDD: 1TB WD Caviar Black
SSD: Intel 320 80GB
DVD Drive
Case: CM 690 II Advance or HAF 932 Advance
Mobo: Gigabyte Z68 UD4
CPU: i5 2500k
Vid Card:msi GTX 560ti Twin Frozr
RAM: 8GB
PSU: Corsair HX750W
HDD: 1TB WD Caviar Black
SSD: Intel 320 80GB
DVD Drive
B-Dex said:
Both fine cases.
Check this guide, has some nice tips and recommendations:
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/The_FalconO6/CurrentLogicalPCBuyingGuide/Guide.png
Honestly, after looking at benchmarks, I think I'm feeling the i3 2100 over the AMD 955. The 955 will do a bit better with quad-core enabled games when overclocked...but at stock speeds, it very barely edges out the 2100 (by maybe 5%). When it comes to games that only support 1-2 threads (like Starcraft 2 or emulators), the 2100 will be significantly better. They would run about the same price, but going with the 1155 motherboard leaves a much better upgrade path.
Thoughts?
edit: actually, it probably beats the stock clocked 955 even in quad-core games, judging by the benchmarks here.
Thoughts?
edit: actually, it probably beats the stock clocked 955 even in quad-core games, judging by the benchmarks here.
TheExodu5 said:
My lack of computer knowledge always has a couple questions in my mind.
1. What does any of this mean?
2. How difficult will it be to build/ is it foolproof?
10$ is not much of a difference.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115078&cm_re=i3_2100-_-19-115-078-_-Product
Ryusei said:
It means going with a different motherboard...probably an H67 motherboard.
Check these benchmarks:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4083/...core-i7-2600k-i5-2500k-core-i3-2100-tested/20
I think this is worth discussing with regards to the low-end builds in the OP. Sure, the i3 2100 is only dual-core...but it appears to be significantly faster than the AMD CPUs, clock-for-clock, making up the difference in between dual and quad core out of sheer efficiency. It also uses only half the power.
Wolf Akela
Member
I think the i3-2100 would be better since you'll be able to upgrade to an i5 or i7 later if you want.
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