"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
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Grimm Fandango
Member
Anyone having any trouble with the ASUS AI Suite II (P8P67 utilities)? Can't seem to reinstall it properly.
ugh...
guys I'm having an extremely annoying problem and I don't know if I should be concerned or not.
Sometimes, one in every 25 boots I get into windows and things look like I don't have gpu-drivers installed, that is everything is low-res and...well you know all everything that that entails.
Aaanywho, checking the devicemanager I have a yellow warning triangle next to each of my GTX 460s, rightclicking on them and checking properties I can read the following : Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) ".
The thing is I've never had any problems with my gpus outside of this, and all I have to do to fix this is a simple reboot. But there has been occasions where I'd simply reboot back into the same state.
Again this is quite rare, but I still have noo idea what could be the cause of this. My w7 is up to date, and although I'm running the 265.35 beta drivers this annoyance has been present across different drivers.
Any idea?
guys I'm having an extremely annoying problem and I don't know if I should be concerned or not.
Sometimes, one in every 25 boots I get into windows and things look like I don't have gpu-drivers installed, that is everything is low-res and...well you know all everything that that entails.
Aaanywho, checking the devicemanager I have a yellow warning triangle next to each of my GTX 460s, rightclicking on them and checking properties I can read the following : Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) ".
The thing is I've never had any problems with my gpus outside of this, and all I have to do to fix this is a simple reboot. But there has been occasions where I'd simply reboot back into the same state.
Again this is quite rare, but I still have noo idea what could be the cause of this. My w7 is up to date, and although I'm running the 265.35 beta drivers this annoyance has been present across different drivers.
Any idea?
peppermints
Member
So I really can't decide between a GTX 460 or a Radeon 6850.. the performance from what I've read seems to be about equal, but I can get a 1GB card with the 6850 cheaper than I can with a GTX 460. But at the same time, everything I've read recommends the GTX.
Also, if it matters, my monitor will only be 1440x900.
Also, if it matters, my monitor will only be 1440x900.
peppermints
Member
I've been out of the loop with PC games for a long time. The most recent PC game I've played regularly is TF2, so I'm sure that can be maxed out just fine on either card.
now that the TIM has set my 2500k @ 4.4ghz and 1.26V ranges between 53C-60C across the 4 cores. after scouring various forums it seems like this temperature disparity between the cores is somewhat the norm for this chip. i have a feeling Intel might have some QC issues with their heatspreaders.
Metalic Sand
who is Emo-Beas?
MedIC86 said:
I disagree with this. You will never need to stress a computer for 25 hours so i would say your OC was stable. NO Cpu will ever get that high unless doing stress testing but im sure someone will disagree with me!
It's a good system. If you swap in a $130 GigaByte UD3 and a 2500K it'll be a ton better thoughCrocMother said:
scorcho said:
Yeah the Intel sensors seem to be worthless under like 80C. Don't worry about it.TheExodu5 said:
Hopefully someone with a temperature probe and figure out how accurate these new chips are.
Globehopper
Member
Just chiming in to say my 2600K has around a 10C disparity between cores too. Running a 4.4 OC my idle temps are 28-ish on 2 cores and 36-ish on the other 2. Under load I'm hitting 62C max in Prime95. This is with a Hyper 212+ using the no-doubt crappy paste that came with it.
Metalic Sand
who is Emo-Beas?
Globehopper said:
Actually the paste it comes with is comparable to arctic silver 5.
it uses this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...59&cm_re=Thermal_paste-_-35-103-059-_-Product
mclaren777
Member
Question for those with an SSD and Windows 7: does your computer come out of Sleep Mode properly?
I keep hearing people complain that their system doesn't fully wake, and as someone who uses Standby/Sleep on a daily basis, I'm curious if this is actually a common problem. If so, it might be enough to cause me to forgo an SSD until this issue is fully resolved.
I keep hearing people complain that their system doesn't fully wake, and as someone who uses Standby/Sleep on a daily basis, I'm curious if this is actually a common problem. If so, it might be enough to cause me to forgo an SSD until this issue is fully resolved.
IMO no unless you're planning on extreme OCs. The other benefit is that it will be quite a bit quieter than the 212+. I think most people agree that it's one of the quietest CPU coolers around. All in all it'd be better to put the money you spend towards a better GPU or SSD.-viper- said:
mclaren777
Member
This appears to be the fan that's used on the Hyper 212+ but I was curious how you would connect a push/pull setup to an ASUS P8P67 board given that these are its listed fan connectors...
1 x CPU Fan connector (4-pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connector (1 x 4-pin; 1 x 3-pin)
1 x Power Fan connector (3-pin)
1 x CPU Fan connector (4-pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connector (1 x 4-pin; 1 x 3-pin)
1 x Power Fan connector (3-pin)
-viper- said:
Forget the Noctua. It's too expensive. If you want to spend more than what you would on a 212+, do like I did and get the Cooler Master V6GT.
http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6668
Dual fans, 5 heat pipes arrayed in a v-shape, and a maximum 96CFM of air flowing through it make it one of the best air coolers on the market under $70. Relevant charts:
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...-cooler-master-v6-gt-cpu-cooler-review-9.html
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1352/6/
The downsides are that you'll need a 2000RPM exhaust fan behind this bad boy, it can hang over the ram a bit, and it's not super quiet. But, it's the best cooler that isn't a Noctua at its price.
mclaren777
Member
Questions for Hazaro or anyone else with a push/pull 212+
1. How does having a second fan impact the noise produced?
2. How does having a second fan impact the cooling performance?
3. If I choose to go with just one fan, is it better to push or pull?
I figure you're the perfect people to ask because you can actually test this stuff.
1. How does having a second fan impact the noise produced?
2. How does having a second fan impact the cooling performance?
3. If I choose to go with just one fan, is it better to push or pull?
I figure you're the perfect people to ask because you can actually test this stuff.
-viper- said:
SNB appears to be an entirely new beast altogether. Even putting pots on it doesn't seem to improve overclock headroom much. Not sure if it's locked on the chip somehow or if there is something to the archetecture that we haven't had to deal with before. Don't spend much to cool your 2500K, it won't do much performance wise.
Metalic Sand
who is Emo-Beas?
mclaren777 said:
Figured i would answer this some. I don't have a second fan installed yet but the blademaster fan it comes with is real quiet at %70 1000-1100 RPM speed. Moreso at %50 and under that i cant tell the difference.
I would guess having a second fan wouldn't impact the noise much if dialed down. %70 in speedfan seems to be the perfect spot for high cooling/noise
AwakenedCloud
Member
Hey guys, I got the computer in the OP built and everything is going great except for the DVD Drive. It's incredibly loud and sometimes it will just stop reading discs. What are the odds that it's defective vs. the odds of some type of installation error?
Since the fans run about the same its not as disruptive, however the CM 212+ fan psuhes a decent amount of air. You really only need 1 of them.mclaren777 said:Questions for Hazaro or anyone else with a push/pull 212+
1. How does having a second fan impact the noise produced?
2. How does having a second fan impact the cooling performance?
3. If I choose to go with just one fan, is it better to push or pull?
I figure you're the perfect people to ask because you can actually test this stuff.
Drops temps about 2-4C usually. You use them so you can have 2 lower speed fans and less noise usually.
Push 100%.
Probably installation error, is everything tightly screwed in and locked? Is it snug in the bay?AwakenedCloud said:
It could be a bad drive though, just check to make sure you didn't put it in wrong.
mclaren777
Member
Thanks for the help.
Metalic Sand said:
Nah, I agree with you. Unless you are actually stressing your CPU out for extended periods of time, like F@H or something, it's a waste of time. If you prime95 for long enough, it will eventually fail. It's logarithmic; the more time you stress it doesn't mean it is linearly being proven more stable.
If you're like me, and you mostly using your computer for gaming and other mundane activities (outside of video things and F@H), then your CPU will unlikely be maxed out for extended periods anyway. A few hours of prime and some Intel Burn Test, and I would call it.
Just model it off your usage.
AwakenedCloud
Member
Everything seems snug, I unplugged and replugged the cables just to make sure and the problem still exists. According to newegg, the drive is supposed to be very quiet, but this thing sounds like it's going to snap discs in 2! It will read most regular DVDs to an extent, I've tried PS2 emulation and it will read to a point and just stop. Mini-DVDs like Gamecube games will not read at all.Hazaro said:
MikeE21286
Member
Hit a bet I had on the NFL playoffs last night so I decided to go ahead and grab an SSD for my new setup lol
Picked up the Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
About to do a fresh install of Windows 7, any advice or tips I need before setting it up?
From what I read I should set my bios to ACHI mode (It already is though IIRC). Also, my mobo has the SATA III 6gbps controller, so I'll make sure to utilize that. Anything else glaring that I should do?
Picked up the Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
About to do a fresh install of Windows 7, any advice or tips I need before setting it up?
From what I read I should set my bios to ACHI mode (It already is though IIRC). Also, my mobo has the SATA III 6gbps controller, so I'll make sure to utilize that. Anything else glaring that I should do?
MisterAnderson
Member
I just bought the v8 cooler master cpu cooler, is that a good one or is it over kill?
Stealth said:
Those reviews are kind of worthless.
Who wants a cooler that performs best at 1900RPM? My Thermalright Venomous X is keeping my system cool and quiet with push-pull 800RPM fans.
As you can see, its low RPM performance isn't that great:
Coolers like the Noctua and Thermalright, on the other hand, reach their peak at around 800RPM push-pull, or 1000RPM single fan.
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mclaren777
Member
I still can't decide which SSD to get and it's the final missing piece of my build.
Can any of you weigh in on the Indilinx vs. SandForce debate? I'm more interested in reliability/usability over raw speed and I've heard that SF drives have more issues with Sleep Mode and are prone to fail more often.
Can any of you weigh in on the Indilinx vs. SandForce debate? I'm more interested in reliability/usability over raw speed and I've heard that SF drives have more issues with Sleep Mode and are prone to fail more often.
mclaren777
Member
Intel and Indilinx controllers seem to be fine, but apparently many people with SandForce drives have issues with their computer waking up correctly.Kalnos said:
I'm actually starting to lean towards this Samsung SSD now.
Well I have a SandForce SSD (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227550&cm_re=ocz_ssd-_-20-227-550-_-Product), so I guess that's my issue. I assume there's no fixes?mclaren777 said:
mclaren777
Member
Here's a quote from one of the reviews on Newegg...squinters said:
mclaren777 said:
I use a 3-way PWM splitter to connect the push-pull on my Scythe Mugen 2 to the CPU fan connector. You could even connect the case back exhaust fan to the same header this way. Just don't connect more than 1A/12watt of fans to a single header
in other news my GTX480 absolutely sucks in overclocking, so I flashed it in order to put more volts through it lol ... Mafia II 1080p max including PhysX at max is now running at a constant 60 fps, the 4.7ghz i7 2600k definitely making a difference compared to the non-physx ~40 fps on my previous Athlon II X4 3.5ghz =] (Bad Company 2 has less dips below the 60 fps mark as well, and the horribly optimized Black Ops now doesn't stutter anymore...)
If you need an SSD right now I'd personally say the Crucial C300 128 is the most interesting .. a bit more expensive than most though. I have a 80g Intel Postville which I can recommend as well =] Otherwise WAIT
mclaren777
Member
I just wish that Corsair would give us pricing and a release date for their upcoming P3 drives. Apparently they are supposed to come out this month but the lack of information is troubling. If they don't announce something by Friday I'm going with a different SSD. I can't wait any longer because I don't want to miss the 30-day RMA window on the stuff I've always ordered from Newegg.
The fact that none of the SSD manufacturers tried to release with the Sandy Bridge launch seems like bad business.
The fact that none of the SSD manufacturers tried to release with the Sandy Bridge launch seems like bad business.
MikeE21286
Member
Hazaro said:
Is is really a substantial increase?
I'm not well versed in how much of an increase is "substantial" or not:
C300 128GB
Sequential Access - Read:
up to 355MB/s
Sequential Access - Write:
up to 140MB/s
C400 128GB
Read: sequential read speeds of 415MB/s
Write: 175MB/s sequential writes.
Doubling in what you get for the costMikeE21286 said:
New process = much less expensive
It'll take a while for everyone to get competitive, but prices will fall like rocks when everyone gets in the game.
Later this year I would not be surprised to see 128GB drives for $140, or 256GB drives for $290
*And I see a Kingston SSD Now on newegg for $150AR now. Crazy. I wouldn't get it, but shows where prices can go, just 10 months ago $150 got you 32GB.
TheExodu5 said:
Those coolers also cost another $20-30 more when you factor in the fans you need to buy for the Thermalright and the average cost of a Noctua. I never said those options were bad, simply more expensive. If quiet performance matters to the user, they are terrific coolers. If not, the V6GT provides the performance you need when you need it, and can scale down and cool fine when you don't. Since Sandy Bridge is all about Turbo Boost, you don't need to keep the thing roaring at 2200RPM at all times... but you can.
In all honesty I think it's an overlooked cooler with some impressive performance at the high end. For people looking for an easy push-pull solution that doesn't require the purchase of a separate fan, it's a nice alternative.
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