"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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SuperÑ said:
I just cleared CMOS, then manually set the VDRAM to 1.65 and the clocks went to 1600mhz. Then reinstalled the OS, everything was going perfect so far and BAM!, BSOD!

:'(
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Try running your ram at 1333mhz and 1.5V. Heard people are having problems running 1.65V. Did you turn off Turbo, in case it's unstable with CPU clocking up?
 
I need some help.

I got my 2500k, gigabyte p67a-ud3, ripjaw 4GB parts in and the parts installation seemed to go smoothly. I got to post, entered the bios and adjusted boot order and booted to win7. I got to the desktop but my keyboard and mouse weren't functional, being plugged into the usb ports, so I rebooted w/ my keyboard in the ps2 port and then went to install the drivers from the mobo cd.

Long story short, my USB ports don't seem to work. The USB 3.0 controller and the 2 standard USB controllers show up in device manager but there's a "code 37' error for all of them. The ports seem to be powered, since the numlock led on the keyboard lights up when I put it in the ports.

I tried to uninstall and then reinstall the drivers and it didn't help. I got updated drivers from the mobo webpage and the controllers still present the same problem. Anyone have a solution or is this a hardware problem?
 
Bauer Action Hour said:
Yes. Could the problem be that I didn't do a clean install of windows and just booted an existing one, causing some kind of driver conflict?
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When you change the MB, it's always best to do clean install (best) or upgrade an existing Windows. Never boot up an existing Windows.
 
SuperÑ said:
I googled "P8P67 ram boot issues" and got a ton of info. Apparently Asus fucked this up for good...
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Oh, you have one of those too. Here is how I fixed it. Its pretty simple.

Take the Ram sticks, put them in slot 3 and 4. No error since on my end. Simple, likely slightly slower then normal, but works great. If you have 4 sticks, your somewhat screwed.
 
Drkirby said:
Oh, you have one of those too. Here is how I fixed it. Its pretty simple.

Take the Ram sticks, put them in slot 3 and 4. No error since on my end. Simple, likely slightly slower then normal, but works great. If you have 4 sticks, your somewhat screwed.
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Wouldn't that mean you are no longer running dual channel? Have you tried running a2/b2 (recommend config) or a1/b1?
 
Drkirby said:
Oh, you have one of those too. Here is how I fixed it. Its pretty simple.

Take the Ram sticks, put them in slot 3 and 4. No error since on my end. Simple, likely slightly slower then normal, but works great. If you have 4 sticks, your somewhat screwed.
Click to expand...

Ok, last chance.

RAM sticks on slots 2 and 4, VDRAM set to 1,5 and runing at 1333mhz.

HDD to SATA3 using the Sata 6gbps cable that came with the mobo, AHCI mode (if Win install fails again, i'll try IDE mode).

This last time it hooked up at the last step of the Windows install...i waited 7 minutes before shutting down. It wasn't frozen as i could move the mouse, but...
 
No no no. Not 2 and 4, 3 and 4. The last two slots.

Wouldn't that mean you are no longer running dual channel? Have you tried running a2/b2 (recommend config) or a1/b1?
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Yes. I rather have a working Mother Board then Dual Channel.
 
Anyone have any other solutions beyond a windows reinstall? I'd rather not do it if I don't have to (at least not immediately) and there's some other way to fix it. Also, can a hardware issue be ruled out? The ports are getting power but I'd like to know w/ more certainty.
 
Bauer Action Hour said:
Anyone have any other solutions beyond a windows reinstall? I'd rather not do it if I don't have to (at least not immediately) and there's some other way to fix it. Also, can a hardware issue be ruled out? The ports are getting power but I'd like to know w/ more certainty.
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You probably have a driver, IRQ or etc. conflict because Windows is still using resource settings for your previous MB. Save the hassle. Do a clean install or upgrade Windows.
 
knitoe said:
You probably have a driver, IRQ or etc. conflict because Windows still using resource settings for your previous MB. Save the hassle. Do a clean install or upgrade Windows.
Click to expand...

Alright then, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the help.
 
Bauer Action Hour said:
Anyone have any other solutions beyond a windows reinstall? I'd rather not do it if I don't have to (at least not immediately) and there's some other way to fix it. Also, can a hardware issue be ruled out? The ports are getting power but I'd like to know w/ more certainty.
Click to expand...

download the intel .inf update for the 6series chipset, they'll probably update the USB drivers
 
Given my previous post, should I use this fan controller or just adjust speeds via software instead?

1JGCR.jpg
 
mclaren777 said:
Given my previous post, should I use this fan controller or just adjust speeds via software instead?

1JGCR.jpg
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err I haven't really tried software to be honest, just running my casefans with a 5/12 switch, GPU fans through Afterburner/vidcard and CPU fans through motherboards automatic PWM profile

BUT

I believe the motherboard only controls PWM fans? so I'm not sure if the adjust via software route is viable when you have 3-pin casefans ...
 
Okay so I just put the CPU in my mobo but when I try to bring the lever down to lock it I have to push way too hard. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I'm trying to get the plate under the screw but the only way I can do that is to push really hard on the lever...
 
Prodigal said:
Okay so I just put the CPU in my mobo but when I try to bring the lever down to lock it I have to push way too hard. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I'm trying to get the plate under the screw but the only way I can do that is to push really hard on the lever...
Click to expand...

yeah I had to push ridiculously hard as well :/ being only familiar with recent AMD sockets I didn't like the creaking sounds coming from that metal socket, but all is well in the end =]
 
Parl said:
Building a new PC for my brother. Kinda out of the loop with a few things, so help would be much appreciated.

Budget: £450-£550 (without monitor)
Main Use: Demanding gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Just stuff. Modern FPSs mostly.
Are reusing any parts?: Entirely from scratch.
When will you build?: Buying parts later today or very soon, though can delay a little if necessary for new components, or leave him with crappy onboard for a short while.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, so long as it doesn't make it use too much lecy.
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Well if you want a decent gaming rig you'll have to spend £120 more.

All from Aria.co.uk except the GFX

2500k - £180
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3 - £111
Corsair XMS3 4GB DDR3 RAM - £40

Case - £70? Link

XFX Pro Series 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Single Rail - £65

ATI Raedon 6950 - £204 Eclipse Computers

TOTAL: £670

Not sure if I've missed anything...
 
mclaren777 said:
Given my previous post, should I use this fan controller or just adjust speeds via software instead?

1JGCR.jpg
Click to expand...

If your goal is a silent PC, you want a fan controller of some sorts. I was using cheap little plastic controllers on my old PC (and the few that I had hooked up to the motherboard I had just set to silent).
 
For P8P67 owners who are having trouble with the double boot

From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to ‘Advanced’ tab -> go down to ‘APM’, press Enter -> enable the “Power on by PCIe.” function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.
Click to expand...

Posted from an Asus employee.

EDIT: Here's the original link: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578675
 
How far are you supposed to tighten down the upper bracket on the 212+?

Until the metal meets the stand-offs? Cooler Master writes terrible instructions!


Edit: nevermind, I figured it out--the answer is: until it stops

But what about the thumb screw in the very center of the bracket? Do I need to tighten that?
 
mclaren777 said:
How far are you supposed to tighten down the upper bracket on the 212+?

Until the metal meets the stand-offs? Cooler Master writes terrible instructions!


Edit: nevermind, I figured it out--the answer is: until it stops

But what about the thumb screw in the very center of the bracket? Do I need to tighten that?
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You do nothing to center pin / spring. Thats what pushes the heatsink onto cpu. Just make sure it's align with whole in heatsink. Just screw, until they stop, the 4 screws on the four wing corners.
 
2San said:
Not sure. I have the feeling the windows are opening slowly. Maybe I'm being paranoid. I'm not sure. Here's a 3d mark 11 result does this sound right? http://3dmark.com/3dm11/462501


Not sure if there's an actual problem haven't installed any games yet.

So there are no tests to check if everything is working properly?
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According to the results you are running 10.12. The problems I've been having is, when my monitor goes to sleep, it sometimes crashes the system and causes a reboot. 11.1 should be coming out soon and if you don't have any major issues you may be fine until then.
 
Felix Lighter said:
According to the results you are running 10.12. The problems I've been having is, when my monitor goes to sleep, it sometimes crashes the system and causes a reboot. 11.1 should be coming out soon and if you don't have any major issues you may be fine until then.
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Actually installed a few games now. (WoW and UT3) Don't seem to have problems. I was just being paranoid. Haven't had problems with my pc crashing with sleep mode though.
 
I have a question...

If I buy a 750W power supply compared to a 650W power supply, will have a greater hit on my electricity bill assuming I use the same components on both PSUs? i.e. 2500k, P67 board, 4GB RAM, 1TB HDD and a 6950.

Just asking because I'm interested in upgrading to a XF 6950 setup in a year or two. Or is 650W sufficient?

Tweaktown report 440W underload (alongside the PC, and a SSD)
 
-viper- said:
I have a question...

If I buy a 750W power supply compared to a 650W power supply, will have a greater hit on my electricity bill assuming I use the same components on both PSUs? i.e. 2500k, P67 board, 4GB RAM, 1TB HDD and a 6950.

Just asking because I'm interested in upgrading to a XF 6950 setup in a year or two. Or is 650W sufficient?

Tweaktown report 440W underload (alongside the PC, and a SSD)
Click to expand...

650W is enough,

and no, your electricity bill will be the same if you keep the same hardware.
 
-viper- said:
I have a question...

If I buy a 750W power supply compared to a 600W power supply, will have a greater hit on my electricity bill assuming I use the same components on both PSUs? i.e. 2500k, P67 board, 4GB RAM, 1TB HDD and a 6950.
Click to expand...

no power usage depends on 2 things:

-the components used, resulting in a certain amount of DC power usage

-then the efficiency of the power supply comes into play, as it then converts a higher amount of AC power to the required DC power [the advertised number of watts refers to the maximum (safe) DC power output]

a 80% efficiency power supply will use 1000w of AC to supply 800w of DC power

so the hit on your electrical bill will depend on the efficiency of either power supply

(to make things more complicated the efficiency of a single power supply can change over a range of output power, even the ratio between 5 and 12 volts or the room temperature can have influence )

Ogs said:
God damn im loving my 6970, this thing is destroying everything.
If anyone wants me to do some benchmarks on this thing just ask if interested for comparison/purchasing decisions etc. Right then im gonna stop nerdgasming for a bit .....
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what's your 3d11 ? :P here's mine

Mafia 2 1080p max physX max at 60 fps is sweet indeed, Crysis runs very well on gamer but I need to install some of those graphic mods, Bad Company 2 is pure sex :D
 
God damn im loving my 6970, this thing is destroying everything.

Clear Sky DX11 Maxed ?

18e0z.jpg


Your system crushing but awesome sun rays are system crushing no more !

Metro 2033 DX11 Options On Very High ?

2oidd.jpg


Stunning, down right stunning, you are now playable at these settings bastard !

Mafia 2 Maxed Out @ 60 FPS ?

3mihk.jpg


Just a simply visually stunning game (which i enjoy too !), now at 60 FPS looking buttery fine.

Fucking love this card, drivers do need some work though (Crysis has some wierd frame drops at places which lesser cards at the same settings didnt have). Bad Company 2 absolutely flies on this thing, having all the crazy gun fire and explosions and smoke going on around you at a mostly 60 FPS is godlike, love it love it LOVE IT.

If anyone wants me to do some benchmarks on this thing just ask if interested for comparison/purchasing decisions etc. Right then im gonna stop nerdgasming for a bit .....
 
SuperÑ said:
650W is enough,

and no, your electricity bill will be the same if you keep the same hardware.
Click to expand...
IF something bad does happen, what is the worse that could happen? My PC components get fried, or my PSU gets fried?

If 650W is enough, then why is almost everyone suggesting 750W+ PSUs for dual card set ups ? :\
 
-viper- said:
IF something bad does happen, what is the worse that could happen? My PC components get fried, or my PSU gets fried?

If 650W is enough, then why is almost everyone suggesting 750W+ PSUs for dual card set ups ? :\
Click to expand...

well the more the power your PSU has in reserve, the less it will be stressed (so the longer it lives) is the general consensus ... and efficiency drops when nearing 100% load as well

but any decent PSU should have both overcharge protection (shutting off if your pc asks too much) and other sorts of protection in case of component failure

I had both cheap and expensive (550w pentium IV era Antec) PSUs fail (even blow up lol) on me, but I never lost any hardware due to it ...
 
Ogs said:
God damn im loving my 6970, this thing is destroying everything.
Click to expand...

What res are you playing these games at, specifically Metro 2033?

My 6970 (well, 6950 unlocked to be a 6970) certainly isn't destroying that game at max dx11 details, but I'm playing at 1920x1200. It chops pretty hard when theres a lot of gunfire and enemies on the screen -- not that I wasn't expecting that...that game is a monster.
 
My CPU fan stopped speeding up when the CPU heats up. It stays at 31xx RPM no matter what temp the CPU is. I'm having some cooling issues because of this. I've got new thermal paste, did a bang up job cleaning the old and applying the new. Didn't help for shit. Now I have to undervolt and even then it's getting up to 65c.

At stock voltage is never got past 60c at full voltage. Now if I run it at full voltage it hits 60c idle.

Ambient temps seem fine since GPU isn't any hotter than usual.

Running an AMD 955. Stock is 1.4v, I'm running at 1.3v to stop it from frying. It's still exceeding max rec temps (62c).


This just started after about a year of good service. Case is clean and well ventilated.
 
-viper- said:
IF something bad does happen, what is the worse that could happen? My PC components get fried, or my PSU gets fried?

If 650W is enough, then why is almost everyone suggesting 750W+ PSUs for dual card set ups ? :\
Click to expand...
sry i thought u were goin to replace ur current card not doing a cf config
 
rabhw said:
What res are you playing these games at, specifically Metro 2033?

My 6970 (well, 6950 unlocked to be a 6970) certainly isn't destroying that game at max dx11 details, but I'm playing at 1920x1200. It chops pretty hard when theres a lot of gunfire and enemies on the screen -- not that I wasn't expecting that...that game is a monster.
Click to expand...

1920x1080. Im not saying its a 60FPS, mostly a consistent 30, with a couple of areas ive come across which seem to skip frames (for example when Bourbon gets captured, sneaking around the boxes area, nothing taxing going on but frames skip for some reason). Might be a driver issue (there is certainly some flickering shadows ive noticed, mostly noticeable outside on the buildings).
 
FUCKING FINALLY!

I can not believe the issue was the HDD. I fresh installed Win7 in another Seagate 1Tb Hdd and not problem so far!

Fuck you all for recommending the Samsung F3 :lol
 
Got my build up and running, only 1 minor problem: X-fi doesn't seem to be working with my Gigabyte P67UD3. I doubt anyone else here has both of these, but if you do, lemme know if you got it working lol
 
SuperÑ said:
FUCKING FINALLY!

I can not believe the issue was the HDD. I fresh installed Win7 in another Seagate 1Tb Hdd and not problem so far!

Fuck you all for recommending the Samsung F3 :lol
Click to expand...
Interesting. So, F3 installs Windows 7 X86 just fine, but not X64. Now, I worry about the F3 coming tomorrow to replace my raid raptors for programs / games. Computer so much more quiet that the raptors noise was bothering me. You have any problems using it as a storage drive?
 
Bauer Action Hour said:
Yes. Could the problem be that I didn't do a clean install of windows and just booted an existing one, causing some kind of driver conflict?
Click to expand...

Did you happen to come from an AMD platform? If so then you must do a fresh install, I have changed mobo/cpus staying on AMD and had no problems using an old install but you might want to do a fresh one regardless to be sure. Ugh that reminds me that I will likely have to another install since I need a new mobo as mine is on life support.
 
knitoe said:
Interesting. So, F3 installs Windows 7 X86 just fine, but not X64. Now, I worry about the F3 coming tomorrow to replace my raid raptors for programs / games. Computer so much more quiet that the raptors noise was bothering me. You have any problems using it as a storage drive?
Click to expand...

I formatted the Samsung F3 from Win7 and works without issues. Copying, pasting, etc works ok.
 
knitoe said:
Interesting. So, F3 installs Windows 7 X86 just fine, but not X64. Now, I worry about the F3 coming tomorrow to replace my raid raptors for programs / games. Computer so much more quiet that the raptors noise was bothering me. You have any problems using it as a storage drive?
Click to expand...
I installed win7 on a samsung f3 last week no problem. 64 bit runs just fine.
 
Ecto311 said:
I installed win7 on a samsung f3 last week no problem. 64 bit runs just fine.
Click to expand...

I did the same months ago and I'm sure several other users here have as well. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I'm sure it was an isolated issue.
 
What's everyone's 24/7 sand bridge speeds? Mine ended up being 4.5Mhz@1.27V max 66C (room temp 23C) with all settings pretty much set to lowest selectable, like disabling PPL overvoltage, no LLC.

Really wanted 4.8@1.35V, but two days trying every setting, not possible. Probably, requires 1.37-1.39V and temp was in high 70C during Prime95. Then, decided to stay <1.30V with low settings, that's how I ended up at 4.5Mhz.
 
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