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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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TheExodu5

Banned
Neiteio said:
Exodus, thank you so much for the advice. :) What's the trade-off in power if one opts for the quieter Gigabyte 6850? And what constitutes a "load?" Like what games under what settings would cause a given graphics card to start making noise?

Some other questions:

- Where did you get your prices, Exodus?

- What's the difference between the motherboard you recommended (Gigabyte P67 UD3) and the one godhandiscen recommended (ASUS P8P67 EVO LGA 1155 Intel P67)?

- What's the difference between the RAM you recommended (G.Skill 8GB DDR3-1333) and the one godhandiscen recommended (G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB)?

- What's the difference between the power supply you recommended (Corsair 650TX) and the one godhandiscen recommended (CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX)?

- When you recommended "any Blu-ray player" for the disc drive, does this mean any Blu-ray player can also write CDs/DVDs/Blu-rays? I'd like to at least be able to burn CDs and DVDs... The ability to burn Blu-rays would be cool as well, since I have a PS3 that can play them on the HDTV.

- What's a "heatsink?" And are there any items that could further increase cooling and reduce noise?

I do think I'll opt for the monitor Exodus recommended, as I think it'll fit my desk better in terms of space.

Prices are rough estimations. Should be around that on NewEgg.

The motherboards are similar in terms of specs...just different manufacturer and BIOS. I have just been hearing of BIOS issues with the Asus boards (booting issues), so I rather recommend Gigabyte atm.

The Ripjaw X Series is a waste...1600MHz vs 1333MHz. 50% more cost for no appreciable difference in performance. You also want memory that's rated at 1.5V. 1333 just happens to be the sweet spot atm.

The difference in PSUs is 100W. 750W would allow you to run two GPUs...but you're not getting a board to support two GPUs in the first place, so it's kind of a moot point.

If you want a Blu-Ray writer, then just pick something off Newegg. Should run you around $100-120. I got a Pioneer, myself.

A good heatsink will definitely reduce noise. It will also allow you to overclock very easily. If you want to further reduce noise, then a fan controller could be beneficial...however motherboard control will probably be fine (just set fans to Silent in the BIOS).
 

knitoe

Member
mclaren777 said:
I haven't decided what my plan is yet because I'm still a little confused by OCing with Sandy Bridge. This is my current understanding of it...

A stock 2600K will run at 1.6GHz when idle and 3.4GHz under load, but it can also jump up to 3.8GHz in Turbo Mode when some (currently unknown) amount of additional load is placed on it. So effectively it can scale from any value between 1.6GHz and 3.8GHz depending on load, and it falls out of Turbo Mode when it reaches a set thermal limit.

When you OC using just the Multiplier, you are only raising the maximum ceiling in Turbo Mode. Otherwise it still runs at 1.6GHz when idle and 3.4GHz under load. OCing with just the Multiplier does increase the maximum Turbo speed, but it also decreases the time until thermal limit is reached, at which point it'll fall back to 3.4GHz.

Is that correct?
For 2600K, 1.6 idle / power saving mode, 3.4 default and 3.8 overclock. In essence, CPU can run anywhere between 1.6-3.8 depending on the load.

When you manually increase the multiplier, the speed range gets larger, in my case 1.6-4.5.
 
mclaren777 said:
Now that you've missed the $80 sale price, I wouldn't recommend that SSD.
Actually, I looked again and Newegg is still giving me the sale price...

Neiteio said:
Exodus said that if I wanted to spend more, I should consider either the 6950, the 6970 or the GTX 570. Which one would be best, and for how much money?
I think the 6950 can still be unlocked to a 6970.
 

Neiteio

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Prices are rough estimations. Should be around that on NewEgg.

The motherboards are similar in terms of specs...just different manufacturer and BIOS. I have just been hearing of BIOS issues with the Asus boards (booting issues), so I rather recommend Gigabyte atm.
OK, I see... So it sounds like the Gigabyte is more stable for more people at the moment, right?

The Ripjaw X Series is a waste...1600MHz vs 1333MHz. 50% more cost for no appreciable difference in performance. You also want memory that's rated at 1.5V. 1333 just happens to be the sweet spot atm.
So it sounds like I should probably go with your suggestion then.

The difference in PSUs is 100W. 750W would allow you to run two GPUs...but you're not getting a board to support two GPUs in the first place, so it's kind of a moot point.
Just to make sure I understand, you're saying I only need one graphics card, but godhandiscen's suggestion would be overkill, enough to support two graphics cards, right?

If you want a Blu-Ray writer, then just pick something off Newegg. Should run you around $100-120. I got a Pioneer, myself.
A Blu-ray writer could also burn CDs and DVDs in addition to burning Blu-rays, right? And you have a Pioneer brand model that works well for you?

A good heatsink will definitely reduce noise. It will also allow you to overclock very easily. If you want to further reduce noise, then a fan controller could be beneficial...however motherboard control will probably be fine (just set fans to Silent in the BIOS).
What does it mean to "overclock?" And how do I go about implementing a fan controller and/or motherboard controller? And what's a BIOS?

I'm sorry I'm not more knowledgable. :(

Schmattakopf said:
I think the 6950 can still be unlocked to a 6970.
I don't understand what this means. The 6950 can transform into a 6970?
 

Askia47

Member
n0n44m said:
download Prime95 , run torture test Small FFTs , meanwhile open the latest version of CPU-Z and check the speed

Doing The Test now and it has not moved at all, it still stays at 800 Mhz. Any ideas on what to do now?
 
"When will higher memory speeds start making a difference?"

To be honest, if you look at recent memory benchmarks, we've gotten to the point where memory speed and timing are making negligible differences in video games. I mean if you're one of those that absolutely must eek out every point and fraction of a frame per second, it's available, but...yeah.
 

knitoe

Member
Askia47 said:
Doing The Test now and it has not moved at all, it still stays at 800 Mhz. Any ideas on what to do now?
For PC1600, it's suppose to stay at 800mhz. DDR are double-data-rate which mean you must multiply by 2, 800 X 2 = 1600.
 
"For PC1600, it's suppose to stay at 800mhz. DDR are double-data-rate which mean you must multiply by 2, 800 X 2 = 1600."


He's not talking about his ram speed, I don't think. I believe he's talking about his CPU's clock speed.
 

Jin34

Member
knitoe said:
You are running the computer at default speed? Could be bad ram.

Yeah it could be that since I'm running on one stick w/o problems right now. But I was really asking about the Catalyst Install manager crash.
 

knitoe

Member
Jin34 said:
Yeah it could be that since I'm running on one stick w/o problems right now. But I was really asking about the Catalyst Install manager crash.
If you have system instability, especially ram related, could cause problems installing programs.
 
GAF, how shitty would this computer be?

*(1) Dell Optiplex GX620*
(OS Windows 7, Kaspersky Internet Sec.,Microsoft Office 2010, Adobe Photoshop CS2, Nero 7, Adobe reader/player,Divx Player,Itunes...ECT.
Pentium D (Dual Core) Processor 3.0 Ghz @ 3.0 Ghz
Video/Graphic card is Nvidia GeForce 210 512MB (DVI , VGA & HDMI) nice for gaming or 3D business
8 USB 2.0 Ports
80GB Hard Drive (Baracuda 7200 RPM.)
2GB of RAM (MAX 4GB)
Dvd Burner/Player with LightScribe
Intel 945G chipset motherboard
305 watt Genuine power supply.
Power cord included.
Price:$220.00

Would there be any hope of playing Civ 5 on this?
 

Mr_Brit

Banned
weekend_warrior said:
GAF, how shitty would this computer be?

*(1) Dell Optiplex GX620*
(OS Windows 7, Kaspersky Internet Sec.,Microsoft Office 2010, Adobe Photoshop CS2, Nero 7, Adobe reader/player,Divx Player,Itunes...ECT.
Pentium D (Dual Core) Processor 3.0 Ghz @ 3.0 Ghz
Video/Graphic card is Nvidia GeForce 210 512MB (DVI , VGA & HDMI) nice for gaming or 3D business
8 USB 2.0 Ports
80GB Hard Drive (Baracuda 7200 RPM.)
2GB of RAM (MAX 4GB)
Dvd Burner/Player with LightScribe
Intel 945G chipset motherboard
305 watt Genuine power supply.
Power cord included.
Price:$220.00

Would there be any hope of playing Civ 5 on this?
Not in a million years. That GPU is terrible.

Even for non game related tasks that PC would still be a terrible buy as that CPU is horrendously outdated.
 

FoxSpirit

Junior Member
Yeah, I'm at like 1800 or so in a small game and my E4400@3GHz already takes too long to calculate turns for it to be fun. :-(
 
Neiteio said:
Just to make sure I understand, you're saying I only need one graphics card, but godhandiscen's suggestion would be overkill, enough to support two graphics cards, right?
Yes. A quality 500W PSU will run any single-chip GPU on the market along with a quad-core CPU. To be on the safe side, some people opt for a bit more wattage overhead and go with a 650W unit, so that they'll have the option to easily run a high-end GPU, overclock their CPU and/or GPU, and not have to worry about overly straining their power supply.


Neiteio said:
A Blu-ray writer could also burn CDs and DVDs in addition to burning Blu-rays, right? And you have a Pioneer brand model that works well for you?
As long as it is spec'd to do so, yes. Any optical disc drive you buy will clearly state what formats it can read and/or burn, and at what speed it can handle each format up to.


Neiteio said:
What does it mean to "overclock?" And how do I go about implementing a fan controller and/or motherboard controller? And what's a BIOS?

I'm sorry I'm not more knowledgable. :(
Your CPU and GPU come with a set speed that they're rated for. if want to make them even faster than their manufacturer-assigned clock speed, you can overclock in most cases.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overclocking
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BIOS
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UEFI


Neiteio said:
I don't understand what this means. The 6950 can transform into a 6970?
For various reasons AMD failed to properly safeguard the initial run of their high end Radeon 6900 series cards, creating a temporary technical loophole. This loophole - which they've been working on rectifying for weeks now - allows certain 6950 cards to be partially, or "wholly" unlocked, and effectively turned into a 6970. So, for $300, and a bit of luck, you may be able to get at or near 6970 levels of performance without paying the $380 that the higher spec GPU goes for.

HD 6950 UNLOCK THREAD (at users risk)
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=335318

I posted what looked to be a revised 6900 series PCB some time ago, so if you or anyone else intends to try this, you'll need to hurry before the "version 2.0" cards roll out.


Speaking of the 6900s...

Another of the 1GB 6950s has shown up. Now to see what final pricing performance will be between the various 6900s, primary and scaled-down GTX 560s, rumored factory overclocked 6870s, and inevitable GTX 550.

ij19sp691.jpg
ij19sp692.jpg

ij19sp693.jpg
ij19sp694.jpg


Though the above may only be an AIB special, it should still give us a good idea of what to expect from reference 1GB cards.
 

Twig

Banned
Fredescu said:
We don't know much other than rumours at the moment, but it's supposed to have performance similar to the 6950 but be more around the 6870 price wise. It might not work out like that, but we should know it all next week. Might be worth the wait if that's you're budget. It might even cause a mild price shakeup too, since everything is just nicely arranged bang for buck wise in video card land at the moment.


Yeah you could find out in the BIOS, or by downloading CPU-Z or something like that.

To be honest they can be a complete bitch to install :lol . Especially the Intel pushpin ones. I've had some go right in, but I've had others that felt like I was going to break the motherboard to get it in. I mean, a custom cooler and a mild overclock is going to give you a decent boost and probably let you keep your CPU running the best games for a good while, but it's nothing like slotting in a graphics card. You might even have to remove your motherboard to put a backing plate on if you don't have access to the back of your motherboard through the case.

Anyway, the PC-GAF cooler of choice is the Hyper 212+ (edit: oh hey there's a sweet installation video on that page too) and it's only $30. I don't know if you need to buy thermal paste too or if it comes with some, maybe someone can chime in because every other person on GAF has one. If you're willing to risk some potential pain, that's only $35 for a decent upgrade if you can get to the 3Ghz mark.
Wallach said:
Personally I would wait because it should be known very soon (about a week) where the 560 is going to land price-wise. In terms of performance it's supposed to be very close to the 6950, though the 6950 is a bit supposed to see some nice increases from the 11.1 drivers also due out this month. If the 560 comes in low enough it will be a good buy, but if it comes in at near the 6950s price range it will likely be out of your proposed budget.
Mmkay, thanks! I'll wait it out for now.

Thirty bucks isn't too bad for "upgrading" my CPU, either. Maybe I'll do that.
 

Mr_Brit

Banned
·feist· said:
For various reasons AMD failed to properly safeguard the initial run of their high end Radeon 6900 series cards, creating a temporary technical loophole. This loophole - which they've been working on rectifying for weeks now - allows certain 6950 cards to be partially, or "wholly" unlocked, and effectively turned into a 6970. So, for $300, and a bit of luck, you may be able to get at or near 6970 levels of performance without paying the $380 that the higher spec GPU goes for.

HD 6950 UNLOCK THREAD (at users risk)
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=335318

I posted what looked to be a revised 6900 series PCB some time ago, so if you or anyone else intends to try this, you'll need to hurry before the "version 2.0" cards roll out.
Has it been confirmed that AMD are locking future 6950s? Pretty stupid move as the current 6950s must be selling like crazy.
 

kamspy

Member
kamspy said:
My CPU fan stopped speeding up when the CPU heats up. It stays at 31xx RPM no matter what temp the CPU is. I'm having some cooling issues because of this. I've got new thermal paste, did a bang up job cleaning the old and applying the new. Didn't help for shit. Now I have to undervolt and even then it's getting up to 65c.

At stock voltage is never got past 60c at full voltage. Now if I run it at full voltage it hits 60c idle.

Ambient temps seem fine since GPU isn't any hotter than usual.

Running an AMD 955. Stock is 1.4v, I'm running at 1.3v to stop it from frying. It's still exceeding max rec temps (62c).


This just started after about a year of good service. Case is clean and well ventilated.


Anyone? I'd hate to buy a new cooler only to find out the PWN controller is broken on my mobo. Can those things even break?

I really don't know what to replace.
 

Mr_Brit

Banned
kamspy said:
Anyone? I'd hate to buy a new cooler only to find out the PWN controller is broken on my mobo. Can those things even break?

I really don't know what to replace.
Unless you have another PWM fan to test with you're going to have to get an aftermarket heatsink and hope your mobo isn't broken.
 

sam27368

Banned
Could you guys suggest a good little dust hoover for my PC? It's only been two weeks and it's accumulated a fair amount and I want to get rid of.
 

n0n44m

Member
TheKurgan said:
This has given me some time to think about mclaren777 question on fans with the ASUS P8P67 motherboard. How do you set up a push pull system on the CPU heatsink with only one CPU Fan connector? Also if I plan on running 4 case fans (Coolmaster 690II Advanced Case) and 2 CPU heatsink fans, which ones should I connect to the motherboard and which ones should I hook up to the powersupply directly?

use a PWM splitter to connect multiple fans to one PWM fan header. THIS one takes it power directly from your PSU and only the PWM signal from the motherboard, I have a model that takes power from the mainboard as well as the PWM signal -> in the latter case don't hook up more than 1A/12W of fans to it

if you got some more splitters you might be able to connect the 4 casefans to the motherboard as well, I don't know their specs though. Replaced all of mine with Yate-Loon fans and got them hooked up to a custom 5/12volt switch. If you are really after silence you could do what I did before I replaced them: hook up to casefans to a regular molex connector which has its 5 and 12 volt pins switched resulting in running those fans at 5v

mclaren777 said:
When you OC using just the Multiplier, you are only raising the maximum ceiling in Turbo Mode. Otherwise it still runs at 1.6GHz when idle and 3.4GHz under load. OCing with just the Multiplier does increase the maximum Turbo speed, but it also decreases the time until thermal limit is reached, at which point it'll fall back to 3.4GHz.

Is that correct?

I think that thermal limit time refers to the non-K models. 2500K and 2600K always go to their maximum turbo speed once overclocking, only falling back (throttling) when you hit critical temperatures (98c core). I say think because I didn't run stock speeds for more than 2 minutes after Windows was done installing ;)

also

p8p67 (pro/deluxe/evo/etc) overclocking demonstration by Asus dude <<== I basically used the motherboard settings he uses to do 4.8 ghz, but with a much lower vcore as I didn't want to go past 1.35. I would not recommend anyone to go past ~1.38 unless you have really good cooling and know what you are doing etc. Those voltages don't really seem necessary until you get to 4.8+ghz speeds, requiring some further tweaks from your motherboard (internal PLL overvoltage etc) as well.

so I tried to boot 4.8 1.35v which worked, then 4.9 which worked, 5.0 didn't work. Then tried prime95 at 4.9 which was insta-fail, at 4.8 it gave errors after ~10 minutes, and at 4.7 it was stable for 2+ hours

then I dropped back the vcore somewhat to 1.325v and it's still stable at 4.7

Word of warning: when I tried autovoltage with my 4.7 overclock the CPU/motherboard decided 1.49 would be a nice vcore under load (judging by CPU-Z), skyrocketing my temps into the 90s ... after some experimentation with the offset voltage setting I had the same problem-> either too much voltage at full load or not enough voltage at idle speeds (causing it to fail booting into Windows) , so I'm using fixed 1.325vcore now
 

longdi

Banned
·feist· said:
Another of the 1GB 6950s has shown up. Now to see what final pricing performance will be between the various 6900s, primary and scaled-down GTX 560s, rumored factory overclocked 6870s, and inevitable GTX 550.

ij19sp691.jpg
ij19sp692.jpg

ij19sp693.jpg
ij19sp694.jpg


Though the above may only be an AIB special, it should still give us a good idea of what to expect from reference 1GB cards.

Started selling here, same brand same heatsink. About $20 cheaper than the 2GB model. Weird thing is did AMD forgot to send reviewers the card? No news of it, no NDA? No hype? No one cares? A whole reverse situation compared to the initial 6950/6970 release. lol.
 

Solo

Member
DoctorWho said:
How many years do you hope this rig lasts you? I'm very tempted to grab something similar.

I usually get 4 years out of a computer. My current one Ive had since 2005, an extraordinarily long time (as you can guess, I haven't been able to play any new PC games for at least 2 years, lol), but I'm hoping this can get me to late 2014-early 2015.

I'll be posting a picture when I get it as requested, as some were curious to see what kind of a job NCIX does with assembly.
 
Prodigal said:
The mobo I ordered (Gigabyte P67 UD3) doesn't look like it has an IDE port and that's what my current cd drive uses...something tells me I'm gonna need to get a new drive, correct? :(
Same shit happened to me, though i walked into the frys near my house and walked out with an ssd and a new cd drive.
 
kamspy said:
Anyone? I'd hate to buy a new cooler only to find out the PWN controller is broken on my mobo. Can those things even break?

I really don't know what to replace.
It's possible. Various parts of the board can fail or simply become faulty in some way.

Have you tried any other headers? 4-pin? By the sound of it, your HSF is running at or near full speed and your CPU is still overheating. Is that correct?

One possibility is that you have dust/debris caught in between the top of the cooler fins and the bottom of the fan/fan blades.

cimg0766c.jpg


If that isn't the issue, and your HSF is in fact running in its upper rpm range (and you have plug it directly to the PSU to verify that it is running properly), but you are still experiencing rising temps, your cooler may well be on it's way out.

Mr_Brit said:
Has it been confirmed that AMD are locking future 6950s? Pretty stupid move as the current 6950s must be selling like crazy.
AFAIK, there hasn't been any confirmation, and I doubt AMD would want to officially broadcast anything about this, for obvious reasons.


longdi said:
Started selling here, same brand same heatsink. About $20 cheaper than the 2GB model. Weird thing is did AMD forgot to send reviewers the card? No news of it, no NDA? No hype? No one cares? A whole reverse situation compared to the initial 6950/6970 release. lol.
It's odd. The way some of these 1GB models are being presented, it's as if they're custom AIB cards. AMD's partners will have been made aware of the "official" 1GB cards since early on, so...
 

commissar

Member
Hey I've been thinking about upgrading my monitor to a 24" 1920x1080 (I have a 19" 1440x900) and I notice there's some 120hz lcds available.

Do you guys think it's worth the extra outlay considering I have an ati at the moment, so 3D isn't happening in the short term? (bonus question of whether nvidia's vision is worth it)
 
commissar said:
Hey I've been thinking about upgrading my monitor to a 24" 1920x1080 (I have a 19" 1440x900) and I notice there's some 120hz lcds available.

Do you guys think it's worth the extra outlay considering I have an ati at the moment, so 3D isn't happening in the short term? (bonus question of whether nvidia's vision is worth it)
Nvidia currently has a better overall implementation. Keep in mind, you'll need a powerful card(s) to get the best 3D performance. If you aren't set on buying a new display or GPU at the moment, you may want to hold off until both camps roll out their next generation cards between late 2011/early 2012. They will represent a sizable performance increase across the board, compared to the quasi-stopgap we have now.
 

commissar

Member
Oh sorry, I meant that 3D isn't something I'd be doing at all this year, as I'm on a limited budget.
Was just wondering if 120hz is worth it over 60hz these days due to the HDMI 1.4 spec monitors coming out.

Or should I go the cheaper 60hz and then wait on a non glasses based solution for 3D
 
Solo said:
I usually get 4 years out of a computer. My current one Ive had since 2005, an extraordinarily long time (as you can guess, I haven't been able to play any new PC games for at least 2 years, lol), but I'm hoping this can get me to late 2014-early 2015.

I'll be posting a picture when I get it as requested, as some were curious to see what kind of a job NCIX does with assembly.

I've never had a gaming rig and I'm very tempted to take the plunge. I've got to see what all the fuss is about when playing games maxed out.
 
salt.jpg


...

http://www.3dcenter.org/news/2011-01-19

2011-01Jan-19.png




commissar said:
Oh sorry, I meant that 3D isn't something I'd be doing at all this year, as I'm on a limited budget.
Was just wondering if 120hz is worth it over 60hz these days due to the HDMI 1.4 spec monitors coming out.

Or should I go the cheaper 60hz and then wait on a non glasses based solution for 3D
Hmmm, hard to say which would be cost-effective for you. Have you taken a look at any impressions? GAF?

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361126

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=402456

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370999

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=403481
 

Askia47

Member
Teknopathetic said:
"For PC1600, it's suppose to stay at 800mhz. DDR are double-data-rate which mean you must multiply by 2, 800 X 2 = 1600."


He's not talking about his ram speed, I don't think. I believe he's talking about his CPU's clock speed.

Yup my cpu speed is still at 800mhz, even though it should be much more. The multiplier is still at 4.0. Im not sure whats going on, any ideas guys?
 
"Yup my cpu speed is still at 800mhz, even though it should be much more. The multiplier is still at 4.0. Im not sure whats going on, any ideas guys?"

Try disabling Cool n Quiet in your bios. Someone earlier in the thread mentioned they had the same issue and disabled it to fix it.
 

Zapages

Member
Hey guys

I have couple small questions.

What do you guys think of the Dell Zino HD? I am thinking of buying one and connecting it to our HDTV. Then using it stream shows that my parents watch and aside from this maybe play some games on it like Trackmania and play some Wii games that I own. I like the compactness of the Zino HD.

How is the AMD Athlon™ II X2 P340 (2.2GHz/1MB cache) compared to AMD Phenom™ II X4 P940 (1.7GHz/2MB cache)

Aside from is it worth getting Blu-Ray player built in or just getting the one with the DVD +/- RW drive.

Also what is the best wireless keyboard for about the distance of 12 to 18 feet away? Is it worth getting one keyboard with a built in trackball or getting one with a separate wireless mouse.

Option 1:
AMD Athlon™ II X2 P340 (2.2GHz/1MB cache)
4GB3 Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz
ATI HD5450 Mobility RadeonTM
500GB4 SATA hard drive (7200RPM)
Tray load CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Dell 1501 802.11 n wireless card

for

$441 + buying wireless keyboard/mouse

Option 2:
AMD Phenom™ II X4 P940 (1.7GHz/2MB cache)
6GB3 Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz
750GB4 SATA hard drive (7200RPM)
ATI HD5450 Mobility RadeonTM
Blu-ray Disc (BD) Combo Drive (BD-ROM, DVD/CD Burner)
Dell 1520 802.11 b/g/n wireless card

for

$686 + buying wireless keyboard/mouse
 

Neiteio

Member
Wow, thanks for fielding all those questions, Feist. :) I'm going to have some follow-up questions later, but as I'm at work right now, I'll just ask this for the time being: Is this monitor any good? I was looking at 24-inch screens, but I think a 23-inch would fit the dimensions of my desk better, and so I came across this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=23_inch_monitor-_-24-009-266-_-Product

To be honest, it's the only 23-inch monitor I've looked at so far. Again, price is not an issue. What's the best 23-inch monitor out there?
 

Mr_Brit

Banned
Zapages said:
Hey guys

I have couple small questions.

What do you guys think of the Dell Zino HD? I am thinking of buying one and connecting it to our HDTV. Then using it stream shows that my parents watch and aside from this maybe play some games on it like Trackmania and play some Wii games that I own. I like the compactness of the Zino HD.

How is the AMD Athlon™ II X2 P340 (2.2GHz/1MB cache) compared to AMD Phenom™ II X4 P940 (1.7GHz/2MB cache)

Aside from is it worth getting Blu-Ray player built in or just getting the one with the DVD +/- RW drive.

Also what is the best wireless keyboard for about the distance of 12 to 18 feet away? Is it worth getting one keyboard with a built in trackball or getting one with a separate wireless mouse.

Option 1:
AMD Athlon™ II X2 P340 (2.2GHz/1MB cache)
4GB3 Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz
ATI HD5450 Mobility RadeonTM
500GB4 SATA hard drive (7200RPM)
Tray load CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Dell 1501 802.11 n wireless card

for

$441 + buying wireless keyboard/mouse

Option 2:
AMD Phenom™ II X4 P940 (1.7GHz/2MB cache)
6GB3 Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz
750GB4 SATA hard drive (7200RPM)
ATI HD5450 Mobility RadeonTM
Blu-ray Disc (BD) Combo Drive (BD-ROM, DVD/CD Burner)
Dell 1520 802.11 b/g/n wireless card

for

$686 + buying wireless keyboard/mouse
That thing won't run Dolphin or any modern 3D games at all.

If Dolphin is important to you then you'll need to move up to a Sandy Bridge system.
 

mclaren777

Member
n0n44m said:
I think that thermal limit time refers to the non-K models. 2500K and 2600K always go to their maximum turbo speed once overclocking, only falling back (throttling) when you hit critical temperatures (98c core). I say think because I didn't run stock speeds for more than 2 minutes after Windows was done installing ;)
So theoretically my unmolested 2600K will run at 3.8GHz while rendering a video as long as it doesn't hit critical temperatures? If so, I think I'll be leaving it stock for now and then bump the Turbo speed up to 4.2GHz in 2015.
 

Zapages

Member
Mr_Brit said:
That thing won't run Dolphin or any modern 3D games at all.

If Dolphin is important to you then you'll need to move up to a Sandy Bridge system.

really dude? :(

My current laptop is able to run Dolphin on a decent FPS 30 FPS.

Core 2 Duo P8400 2.26 Mhz
4 Gig of Ram
Geforce 9600M 512 MB.

I don't really care much for modern FPS... Maybe some PS2 games as well but I have PS3 for that.
 
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