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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Prodigal

Banned
When I get my i2500k stuff today, will I have to put any thermal paste on the processor or will the stock heatsink come with enough already on it?
 

onken

Member
So, solid state drives.

There's no moving parts, so it's impossible for them to "break down" like a regular HDD right? Is it possible for them to fail in some other way instead, and what's the prospect of getting the data back if that happens?
 
Looking to start overclocking my i7-950, got an H70 attached to it and at stock running prime 95 it doesn't seem to push past 60. I'm hoping to get it up to about 4GHz, any good guides out there?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Prodigal said:
When I get my i2500k stuff today, will I have to put any thermal paste on the processor or will the stock heatsink come with enough already on it?
Heatsink has some on it.
Mount it outside of the case, make positive the pins go through. Look at the manual.
onken said:
So, solid state drives.

There's no moving parts, so it's impossible for them to "break down" like a regular HDD right? Is it possible for them to fail in some other way instead, and what's the prospect of getting the data back if that happens?
They wear out at around 72TB of written data. There are SSD 'health' monitors so you can see when parts of it get worn down. It shouldn't be an issue.
 

n0n44m

Member
onken said:
So, solid state drives.

There's no moving parts, so it's impossible for them to "break down" like a regular HDD right? Is it possible for them to fail in some other way instead, and what's the prospect of getting the data back if that happens?

probably zero, unless you wanna pay loads of cash to some professional company specialized in data recovery

when regular drives break, it's either the mechanical parts (and you're probably F'ed) or the electronic parts (and you might be able to source an identical drive, and rig those parts to your broken drive and thus fix it) ... but because all the electronic parts on an SSD contain the memory chips I don't see that being possible with an SSD [edit: and indeed by regularly wearing out, but that doesn't happen until after many years usually]

just backup the important files on a regular drive, I mean it can only be 120g max which is nothing compared to 2tb right ;)
 
Conflict NZ said:
Looking to start overclocking my i7-950, got an H70 attached to it and at stock running prime 95 it doesn't seem to push past 60. I'm hoping to get it up to about 4GHz, any good guides out there?
H70 is a awesome cooler.
 

mbmonk

Member
Is there any difference between a HD 6850 made by one company versus another in terms of performance? For example Saphire vs Asus etc?
 

Askia47

Member
Teknopathetic said:
"Im a bit confused, how much mhz/ghz does the 2500K have per core in a 4 core cpu? My Phenom ii 4 core has 800mhz x4, which = 3.2ghz. I wanted to see if these new intel chips are similar in that regard."


Whoa whoa whoa, no it doesn't, buddy. Your phenom ii has 4 cores that all run at a much higher clock speed than that. You don't divide the clock speed per core. Each core has that clock speed. The 2500k is 3.3ghz, 3.7ghz while in "turbo." Each of the cores has the same clock.

If your phenom ii cores are actually running at 800mhz, then something is wrong with your bios settings.

CPU-Z says its 800 mhz per core, but it could be the cool and quiet feature. Since I've built my PC its been pretty good but struggled sometimes under CPU Heavy games and applications. Starcraft 2 can't even get near 60 fps (more like 25fps), even though much less powerful systems can do it fine on full features. Ive been told that AMD processers are less powerful and that it could be the reason. Thats why I think its 800mhz per core, but I'll check again later tonight.
 

jiien

Member
mbmonk said:
Is there any difference between a HD 6850 made by one company versus another in terms of performance? For example Saphire vs Asus etc?

Usually, just the custom heatsink/fans (if any), and the overclock (if any).
 

n0n44m

Member
Askia47 said:
CPU-Z says its 800 mhz per core, but it could be the cool and quiet feature. Since I've built my PC its been pretty good but struggled sometimes under CPU Heavy games and applications. Starcraft 2 can't even get near 60 fps (more like 25fps), even though much less powerful systems can do it fine on full features. Ive been told that AMD processers are less powerful and that it could be the reason. Thats why I think its 800mhz per core, but I'll check again later tonight.

download Prime95 , run torture test Small FFTs , meanwhile open the latest version of CPU-Z and check the speed
 

jiien

Member
Askia47 said:
CPU-Z says its 800 mhz per core, but it could be the cool and quiet feature. Since I've built my PC its been pretty good but struggled sometimes under CPU Heavy games and applications. Starcraft 2 can't even get near 60 fps (more like 25fps), even though much less powerful systems can do it fine on full features. Ive been told that AMD processers are less powerful and that it could be the reason. Thats why I think its 800mhz per core, but I'll check again later tonight.

Well, you could very well be at 800 MHz per core, but what Teknopathetic means is that has nothing to do with the 3.2 GHz your CPU is rated at. It is just coincidence that you have four cores, each at 800 MHz, that add up to what each core should be running at.
 

camineet

Banned
I just got a new PC. It's a Dell with i7 Core something, 4 cores. 8 GB of DDR3 RAM, 1.5 TB HDD and I upgraded the graphics from a Radeon 4770 to a GeForce GTX 460 1 GB.

Is this enough power to run most games like all the CoD?
 
camineet said:
I just got a new PC. It's a Dell with i7 Core something, 4 cores. 8 GB of DDR3 RAM, 1.5 TB HDD and I upgraded the graphics from a Radeon 4770 to a GeForce GTX 460 1 GB.

Is this enough power to run most games like all the CoD?

You should be fine at 1920x1080 or lower. You should be able to max out the settings for the majority of the games out there and have no problem getting a stable 60fps. There are exceptions like Crysis and Metro 2033 and others here and there but every game should be very playable at least. It won't break a sweat playing any CoD game.
 

Parl

Member
Building a new PC for my brother. Kinda out of the loop with a few things, so help would be much appreciated.

Budget: £450-£550 (without monitor)
Main Use: Demanding gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Just stuff. Modern FPSs mostly.
Are reusing any parts?: Entirely from scratch.
When will you build?: Buying parts later today or very soon, though can delay a little if necessary for new components, or leave him with crappy onboard for a short while.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, so long as it doesn't make it use too much lecy.
 

jiien

Member
mbmonk said:
Thank you :p

To add, sometimes they have different connections, so be sure to check them. And, different manufacturers often offer different warranties.

But in a very general sense, they aren't all that different.
 

camineet

Banned
Felix Lighter said:
You should be fine at 1920x1080 or lower. You should be able to max out the settings for the majority of the games out there and have no problem getting a stable 60fps. There are exceptions like Crysis and Metro 2033 and others here and there but every game should be very playable at least. It won't break a sweat playing any CoD game.


Thanks very much for your reply. I appreciate it :)
 

Pctx

Banned
Well picked up my *newer* computer.

Core i5 750
Asus P55 board
4GB ram
Antec 900 case
Antec 550W PSU

Temp parts:
200GB Segate
HD4350 Radeon

Very pleased with the performance thus far. I'm going to re-load the OS on a SSD disk and have a 1TB drive for data and apps. I'm waiting patiently now to see what the GTX 560 holds before I either get a 5770 or bite the bullet and get a 6950.
 

mclaren777

Member
ph33nix said:
I'm still waiting on my parts. They're out for shipment right now.

This is torture.
I'm in the same boat. I got my CPU, MB, and PSU yesterday. Now I'm just waiting for the UPS guy to delivery my GPU, HSF, RAM, and case. Then I'll just be waiting for my HDD/SSD next week.


And here's a helpful motherboard comparison for those still in need of such information...

Epic Spreadsheet
 
ph33nix said:
I'm still waiting on my parts. They're out for shipment right now.

This is torture.
I decided to buy a Maingear build and I've found out it won't ship until February 2nd. The wait is so aggravating. I've been just staring at the Steam store, wishlisting all the games I want to buy when my machine finally arrives.
 

jonremedy

Member
Hey, guys. I'm looking to get myself a new harddrive to use for system disk. Now, I know everyone's going to recommend me getting an SSD, but two things: I can not afford an SSD at the size I need, and I need a lot of gigglebytes. So I'm looking for a fast harddrive in the 1.5TB to 2TB range. What's the consensus on the fastest disk in this range?
 

mclaren777

Member
jonremedy said:
Hey, guys. I'm looking to get myself a new harddrive to use for system disk. Now, I know everyone's going to recommend me getting an SSD, but two things: I can not afford an SSD at the size I need, and I need a lot of gigglebytes. So I'm looking for a fast harddrive in the 1.5TB to 2TB range. What's the consensus on the fastest disk in this range?
Most people recommend using a 60/64GB SSD for your OS along with a beefy HDD for everything else.

60GB SSD - $130
1TB HDD - $70
 

jonremedy

Member
mclaren777 said:
Most people recommend using a 60/64GB SSD for your OS along with a beefy HDD for everything else.

60GB SSD - $130
1TB HDD - $70

I realize that... but I'm looking to spend something like 100 dollars right now.
 
jonremedy said:
Hey, guys. I'm looking to get myself a new harddrive to use for system disk. Now, I know everyone's going to recommend me getting an SSD, but two things: I can not afford an SSD at the size I need, and I need a lot of gigglebytes. So I'm looking for a fast harddrive in the 1.5TB to 2TB range. What's the consensus on the fastest disk in this range?

This

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

Run!
 

2San

Member
Just put my PC together. Is there anyway to test if my PC working properly? I have a feeling my 3d card is acting wonky.

Specs:
mobo = ASUS P8P67
CPU = Intel i5 2500K
Cooler = Cooler Master Processor Koeler Hyper 212 Plus
GPU = Sapphire HD 6950 2048MB
RAM = Corsair 2x4GB, DDR3, PC12800, CL9, XMS3
PSU= Coolmaster silentpro M700 - 700 watt
DVD drive =Samsung SH-S223C
HDD = Samsung SpinPoint F3 Desktop Class HD103SJ
case = Xigmatek Asgard - Midtowermodel
OS = Windows 7 Home 64bit
 

JoeBoy101

Member
2San said:
Just put my PC together. Is there anyway to test if my PC working properly? I have a feeling my 3d card is acting wonky.

Specs:
mobo = ASUS P8P67
CPU = Intel i5 2500K
Cooler = Cooler Master Processor Koeler Hyper 212 Plus
GPU = Sapphire HD 6950 2048MB
RAM = Corsair 2x4GB, DDR3, PC12800, CL9, XMS3
PSU= Coolmaster silentpro M700 - 700 watt
DVD drive =Samsung SH-S223C
HDD = Samsung SpinPoint F3 Desktop Class HD103SJ
case = Xigmatek Asgard - Midtowermodel
OS = Windows 7 Home 64bit

Define 'wonky'.
 
2San said:
Just put my PC together. Is there anyway to test if my PC working properly? I have a feeling my 3d card is acting wonky.

Specs:
mobo = ASUS P8P67
CPU = Intel i5 2500K
Cooler = Cooler Master Processor Koeler Hyper 212 Plus
GPU = Sapphire HD 6950 2048MB
RAM = Corsair 2x4GB, DDR3, PC12800, CL9, XMS3
PSU= Coolmaster silentpro M700 - 700 watt
DVD drive =Samsung SH-S223C
HDD = Samsung SpinPoint F3 Desktop Class HD103SJ
case = Xigmatek Asgard - Midtowermodel
OS = Windows 7 Home 64bit

Are you using the 10.12 Catalyst driver? It's causing issues.
 

2San

Member
JoeBoy101 said:
Define 'wonky'.
Not sure. I have the feeling the windows are opening slowly. Maybe I'm being paranoid. I'm not sure. Here's a 3d mark 11 result does this sound right? http://3dmark.com/3dm11/462501

Felix Lighter said:
Are you using the 10.12 Catalyst driver? It's causing issues.
Not sure if there's an actual problem haven't installed any games yet.

So there are no tests to check if everything is working properly?
 

mclaren777

Member
I've got a couple of questions about fans, but first, some needed information: my P8P67 motherboard has the following fan ports...

1 x CPU Fan connector (4-pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connectors (4-pin; 3-pin)
1 x Power Fan connector (3-pin)

I bought a stand-alone controller that supports four fans and I'm wondering if I should send it back and just control the fans with software instead. Theoretically I could just run my three case fans from the Chassis/Power fan ports, right? Would there be any harm in plugging a 3-pin fan into a 4-pin port (see image below)? The manual for my P8P67 doesn't address this question, though I'm guessing it should work fine as long as I use the right-most pins (the ones nearest the plastic tab). Right?

ldebB.jpg



My other question relates to the Power Fan connector. If my Google research is correct, that port is meant to monitor the fan speed of the PSU, but I'm unsure of whether it has regulatory control or not. Do any of you have experience with this feature? My PSU doesn't support fan monitoring so I'd rather use that port for controlling another case fan, if possible.

1JW5o.jpg
 

knitoe

Member
mclaren777 said:
I've got a couple of questions about fans, but first, some needed information: my P8P67 motherboard has the following fan ports...

1 x CPU Fan connector (4-pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connectors (4-pin; 3-pin)
1 x Power Fan connector (3-pin)

I bought a stand-alone controller that supports four fans and I'm wondering if I should send it back and just control the fans with software instead. Theoretically I could just run my three case fans from the Chassis/Power fan ports, right? Would there be any harm in plugging a 3-pin fan into a 4-pin port (see image below)? The manual for my P8P67 doesn't address this question, though I'm guessing it should work fine as long as I use the right-most pins (the ones nearest the plastic tab). Right?


My other question relates to the Power Fan connector. If my Google research is correct, that port is meant to monitor the fan speed of the PSU, but I'm unsure of whether it has regulatory control or not. Do any of you have experience with this feature? My PSU doesn't support fan monitoring so I'd rather use that port for controlling another case fan, if possible.
Yes. You can use a 3 pin in the 4 pin.

Go into Advanced Mode > Monitor tab. There are fan settings, standard, silent and max.
 

SuperÑ

OptionN, ShiftN
My new PC finally arrived (2500K, P8P67, OCZ Blade ST 12800 2x2Gb, Ati 6950 2Gb) but i'm having big big trouble installing Windows 7.

Every component is installed correctly, but Windows 7 64 bits never gets to the desktop (It worked ok with a 32bits version).

I have the HDD (Samsung F3) connected to a SATA3 port, but i already tried with a regular SATA2. All the data in the BIOS seems ok, so i boot from the dvd, create partitions, install...all goes as expected BUT after the mandatory autoreboot, either i get a BSOD at the Win loading screen or i get to some prompt which says something about creating new registry entries...and stays there forever. The reboots and the same goes on again and again.

Im pretty much out of ideas, i've spent all the afternoon dealing with this 1000$ piece of shit >:[

Any help would be apreciated.
 

Prodigal

Banned
The mobo I ordered (Gigabyte P67 UD3) doesn't look like it has an IDE port and that's what my current cd drive uses...something tells me I'm gonna need to get a new drive, correct? :(
 

knitoe

Member
SuperÑ said:
My new PC finally arrived (2500K, P8P67, OCZ Blade ST 12800 2x2Gb, Ati 6950 2Gb) but i'm having big big trouble installing Windows 7.

Every component is installed correctly, but Windows 7 64 bits never gets to the desktop (It worked ok with a 32bits version).

I have the HDD (Samsung F3) connected to a SATA3 port, but i already tried with a regular SATA2. All the data in the BIOS seems ok, so i boot from the dvd, create partitions, install...all goes as expected BUT after the mandatory autoreboot, either i get a BSOD at the Win loading screen or i get to some prompt which says something about creating new registry entries...and stays there forever. The reboots and the same goes on again and again.

Im pretty much out of ideas, i've spent all the afternoon dealing with this 1000$ piece of shit >:[

Any help would be apreciated.
I would try clearing MB CMOS, disable CPU Turbo, and/or check ram settings.
 

knitoe

Member
Prodigal said:
The mobo I ordered (Gigabyte P67 UD3) doesn't look like it has an IDE port and that's what my current cd drive uses...something tells me I'm gonna need to get a new drive, correct? :(
Asus boards don't have IDE either. Time to move on. SATA DVD drives could be found for ~$20 so that's not bad.
 

vanty

Member
Askia47 said:
CPU-Z says its 800 mhz per core, but it could be the cool and quiet feature. Since I've built my PC its been pretty good but struggled sometimes under CPU Heavy games and applications. Starcraft 2 can't even get near 60 fps (more like 25fps), even though much less powerful systems can do it fine on full features. Ive been told that AMD processers are less powerful and that it could be the reason. Thats why I think its 800mhz per core, but I'll check again later tonight.
One time my X2 550BE got stuck on 800mhz (normally 3.1ghz) even when running stuff it needed full performance for. Once I restarted and turned off Cool'n'Quiet it went back to 3.1ghz and I've had that shit turned off ever since.
 

mclaren777

Member
SuperÑ said:
I googled "P8P67 ram boot issues" and got a ton of info. Apparently Asus fucked this up for good...
I'm glad I decided to go with 1333 RAM because that cuts down on the problem greatly/entirely.
 

n0n44m

Member
meh I'm running 8gb 1866 mhz without issues .. the only thing is that cold boot issue which can apparently be solved by clearing the cmos (which I havent done yet 'cause I'm lazy)

clear your CMOS, set everything to stock settings (which should make the memory run @ 1333 mhz 1.5v edit:eek:r set 1.65 if that is the default voltage of your kit) , then run memtest86+ to make sure the modules are alright

did you update the bios already? I'm running the beta ('53?) on p8p67pro without issues ... run memtest first though, you don't want to be updating with unstable hardware
 

SuperÑ

OptionN, ShiftN
I just cleared CMOS, then manually set the VDRAM to 1.65 and the clocks went to 1600mhz. Then reinstalled the OS, everything was going perfect so far and BAM!, BSOD!

:'(
 
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