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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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n0n44m

Member
mclaren777 said:
So theoretically my unmolested 2600K will run at 3.8GHz while rendering a video as long as it doesn't hit critical temperatures? If so, I think I'll be leaving it stock for now and then bump the Turbo speed up to 4.2GHz in 2015.

not sure to be honest; I think leaving it to default will make it act like a non-K , while forcing the turbo multiplier to a fixed setting (aka overclocking ;] ) will always make it go to this maximum multiplier

as I said I haven't really done much testing on stock, but just open CPU-Z and run prime95, then see how it scales (additionally, at least for non-K cpus, I believe the amount of turbo being applied was also dependent on the amount of cores being stressed; e.g. only 1 core = 3.8, 2 = 3.7 and so on .. there is also an option in the bios to set the multiplier per core, I believe this refers to the number of cores being stressed; I just used a general 47 multiplier for all cores)
 

mbmonk

Member
ExMachina said:
It comes with a tube of thermal paste, I followed another GAFfer's suggestion earlier to put thin lines between each of the pipes and it's worked swimmingly.

Do you mean the copper looking pipes that run vertical on the unit or the silver looking wafers that lay horizontal?

I have a Q6600 processor, and I am running at stock because I can't seem to cool it off enough to really OC it.
 

mclaren777

Member
My biggest concern is that my P8P67 will automatically tune settings that I want left stock (BCLK, voltages, etc). I'm tempted to go into the UEFI and lock everything down to the values that Intel specifies.

Do you have any experience with the Power Saving, Normal, and Optimal presets on the EZ Mode screen? And if so, does Normal leave everything stock?
 

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
A question to those with a fair amount of experience employing multiple high-resolution monitors ... just how much would I be giving up going with 1680x1050 versus 1080p, 1920x1200, or higher?

I plan to employ 3 monitors, so with that much real estate I should be golden even with the limited (5040x1050) resolution, or do I need to suck it up and do 1080p x 3?
 

n0n44m

Member
mclaren777 said:
My biggest concern is that my P8P67 will automatically tune settings that I want left stock (BCLK, voltages, etc). I'm tempted to go into the UEFI and lock everything down to the values that Intel specifies.

Do you have any experience with the Power Saving, Normal, and Optimal presets on the EZ Mode screen? And if so, does Normal leave everything stock?

EZ mode optimal : ~4.4 ghz with a 105 clock at 1.3ish vcore (sort of an auto overclock I guess)

I assume Power Saving goes the other way around, slightly downclocking using less voltage than stock?

EZ mode normal = completely stock (except Asus always makes the FSB do 100.3 instead of 100.0 in an attempt to look better in benchmarks or something)

==> memory was autoset to 1333mhz at both normal and optimal mode if I recall correctly, so I guess it doesn't use the memory's XMP/whatever profile (mine should specify 1866 mhz 1.5v)
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Raistlin said:
A question to those with a fair amount of experience employing multiple high-resolution monitors ... just how much would I be giving up going with 1680x1050 versus 1080p, 1920x1200, or higher?

I plan to employ 3 monitors, so with that much real estate I should be golden even with the limited (5040x1050) resolution, or do I need to suck it up and do 1080p x 3?

doesn't sound like a huge bump in resolution going from 1680x1050 to 1080p. 1080p would be no scaling for bluray if you have any plans for that. Plus you could opt for 1080p TVs which would give you more screen inches (you could go massive)

Basically I'd go with whatever suits you more - price Vs performance Vs size Vs bezel (important for multimonitor gaming IMO)
 

kamspy

Member
·feist· said:
It's possible. Various parts of the board can fail or simply become faulty in some way.

Have you tried any other headers? 4-pin? By the sound of it, your HSF is running at or near full speed and your CPU is still overheating. Is that correct?

Heat sink and fan have been disassembled and cleaned. Fan use to get up over 6k RPM when I got it.
 

n0n44m

Member
kamspy said:
Heat sink and fan have been disassembled and cleaned. Fan use to get up over 6k RPM when I got it.

6k sounds like a bit much .. hell 2000+ rpm is quite a lot for a 120 fan, smaller ones might go up to 3000 but by then the high pitched noise becomes quite untolerable
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
-viper- said:
PC parts are sooo expensive.

UK GAF, what is the best retailer with the cheapest prices?

tell me about it. Haven't seen much difference between scan, ebuyer and dabs on this new sandy bridge stuff. Might be tweaks here and there for RAM/HDD etc but cancelled out by P&P.
I reckon you're looking at close to a grand for something like a

i5-2500K
4GB RAM
6950
1TB HDD
120 SSD

can't see the point in getting a GTX460 as they're still £150, only £100 more gets you a 6950.
 

-viper-

Banned
mrklaw said:
tell me about it. Haven't seen much difference between scan, ebuyer and dabs on this new sandy bridge stuff. Might be tweaks here and there for RAM/HDD etc but cancelled out by P&P.
I reckon you're looking at close to a grand for something like a

i5-2500K
4GB RAM
6950
1TB HDD
120 SSD

can't see the point in getting a GTX460 as they're still £150, only £100 more gets you a 6950.
For £600 at Microdirect (cheapest), £612 SCAN, £618 Aria, £623 EBuyer
2500k, 4GB RAM, Samsung F3 1TB, Corsair 750W, P67 MOBO, Fractal R3 Case.

And the GPU is going to cost another £200-250 :\
 

hyelife

Member
Ok this sucks.. Im about to pull the trigger on the system today but I cant find the right monitor that I want.. I want something to game with and also to do some photoshop and 3d work.
 

mclaren777

Member
hyelife said:
Ok this sucks.. Im about to pull the trigger on the system today but I cant find the right monitor that I want.. I want something to game with and also to do some photoshop and 3d work.
ASUS VH242H -- $170

I'm extremely pleased with mine, especially regarding how well it calibrates (I'm a color snob).

9QI3E.jpg
 
I'm almost done. Last night I spent hours building it and then at 3 in the morning I tried and it wouldn't power on. Now it does.

But I can't get anything to show up on my monitor :(

hmmm i think i put it in the 2nd vga slot of my antec 300. i'm going to try putting it in the one higher, the blue one (it's in gray right now for those who have my case)

that did the trick :D
 

hyelife

Member
mclaren777 said:
ASUS VH242H -- $170

I'm extremely pleased with mine, especially regarding how well it calibrates (I'm a color snob).

9QI3E.jpg
That looks like a good monitor but its TN panel which is not good for graphic designers. Something with S-PVA or IPS thats not too expensive would be great.
 

hyelife

Member
ph33nix said:
I'm almost done. Last night I spent hours building it and then at 3 in the morning I tried and it wouldn't power on. Now it does.

But I can't get anything to show up on my monitor :(

hmmm i think i put it in the 2nd vga slot of my antec 300. i'm going to try putting it in the one higher, the blue one (it's in gray right now for those who have my case)
Make sure your memory sticks are properly inserted.
 

n0n44m

Member
ph33nix said:
I'm almost done. Last night I spent hours building it and then at 3 in the morning I tried and it wouldn't power on. Now it does.

But I can't get anything to show up on my monitor :(

hmmm i think i put it in the 2nd vga slot of my antec 300. i'm going to try putting it in the one higher, the blue one (it's in gray right now for those who have my case)

huh? are you talking about motherboard PCI-e slots? (basically always take the top slot when using single card)
 
n0n44m said:
huh? are you talking about motherboard PCI-e slots? (basically always take the top slot when using single card)

yeah, i took the bottom slot, but now its working

wow god damn this took longer than anticipated lol
 

MedIC86

Member
hyelife said:
Ok this sucks.. Im about to pull the trigger on the system today but I cant find the right monitor that I want.. I want something to game with and also to do some photoshop and 3d work.

Depends on the budget, but the DELL ips screens are very very good.
 
Question -- I fully plan on running my new PC through a Samsung 3D-Ready TV.

But if I were going to go with a monitor and I wanted 3D for games and Blu-Rays, are the technology and requirements essentially the same/interchangeable as with the television?

That is, do you/can you still use the same active shutter glasses that I have for my TV? Is 1.4a HDMI a requirement for full 1080p 3D on the monitor? Etc.
 

Majeh

Member
-viper- said:
For £600 at Microdirect (cheapest), £612 SCAN, £618 Aria, £623 EBuyer
2500k, 4GB RAM, Samsung F3 1TB, Corsair 750W, P67 MOBO, Fractal R3 Case.

And the GPU is going to cost another £200-250 :\

scan do free delivery on orders above £20 before VAT. I think you had to be a member of avforums with a certain post count (20?)
 

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
mrklaw said:
doesn't sound like a huge bump in resolution going from 1680x1050 to 1080p. 1080p would be no scaling for bluray if you have any plans for that. Plus you could opt for 1080p TVs which would give you more screen inches (you could go massive)

Basically I'd go with whatever suits you more - price Vs performance Vs size Vs bezel (important for multimonitor gaming IMO)
Thanks for the input!

My initial idea was to crossfire two 5770's, which while decent would be hard-pressed to get great performance with 5760x1080. In looking more closely however, it's kind of difficult to find quality 1680x1050 displays in large numbers. That res seemed to be right at the tipping point when contrast ratios and response times started to show nice improvements. The few you can find that fit that are then I/O starved.

Basically 1080p gives me better monitor performance and size at similar and in some cases better price-points. I figure the cost savings can just be put towards the higher-end GPU's.



That does bring up one other point though. I'd imagine 1920x1200 isn't all that much more taxing. Do people have a general preference for aspect ratios when considering a variety of content (probably less movies actually)?
 

mclaren777

Member
I would just like to heap some praise on the HAF 912. It's a fantastic case with a very thoughtful design. The modular nature of the two HDD cases, the spacious gap between the motherboard tray and the rear panel, the rubber grommets for watercooling, the filtered bottom vent for your PSU, etc. This case was made by people who really know what they're doing and I'm glad I chose it over an Antec 900. The HAF 912 is a lot like its big brothers, but it costs less and it takes up much less space.

I highly recommend it.

HAF 912
HAF 912 Plus

LIzmw.jpg
 

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
Crossfire - PCIe 8x8 or 16x16? Will I see a notable difference?


Now that I'm moving my gaze to a higher-end crossfire setup, I'm not sure what MoBo feature-set really matters. Historically the conventional wisdom was 8x8 is fine - difference is only a few fps.

Is that the case now however? I'm considering dual OC'd 5850, 5870, or even something like the MSI 6950 Twin Frozr II's depending on price (note, I'll be starting with one, then adding the second later. I ain't that rich). With these high-end cards, is the difference now notable enough to consider the $100 up-charge or so for a MoBo that actually supports 16x16?
 

n0n44m

Member
hardocp did some tests 8x8 vs 16x16 vs 16x8 and so on a few months ago, check their graphics section

conclusion was 8x8 was fine for 1080p gaming, but when going to extreme resolutions 16x16 started to gain
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Raistlin said:
Crossfire - PCIe 8x8 or 16x16? Will I see a notable difference?


Now that I'm moving my gaze to a higher-end crossfire setup, I'm not sure what MoBo feature-set really matters. Historically the conventional wisdom was 8x8 is fine - difference is only a few fps.

Is that the case now however? I'm considering dual OC'd 5850, 5870, or even something like the MSI 6950 Twin Frozr II's depending on price (note, I'll be starting with one, then adding the second later. I ain't that rich). With these high-end cards, is the difference now notable enough to consider the $100 up-charge or so for a MoBo that actually supports 16x16?
Pretty much the same deal. Save your money
 
Any good deals for PCs in Germany? About to move there this year, and instead of spending fortune on ASUS G53 I can stick with my current notebook and get a PC for gaming. Media Markt and Saturn rip ppl off the same way they do in Poland?
 

Rufus

Member
Castor Krieg said:
Any good deals for PCs in Germany? About to move there this year, and instead of spending fortune on ASUS G53 I can stick with my current notebook and get a PC for gaming. Media Markt and Saturn rip ppl off the same way they do in Poland?
Use gh.de for price analysis and or deals. They list a TON of retailers.
Here's the page for the 2500k, for example, sorted by price(+postage):
http://gh.de/?a=580328&plz=&t=v&va=b&vl=de&v=e#filterform
 

mclaren777

Member
I've gone as far as I can go with what I currently have. My F3 should be getting here later today and my Samsung 470 SSD will be arriving in the latter half of next week.

Feels good, man!

9XLDA.jpg
 

Mr_Brit

Banned
mclaren777 said:
I've gone as far as I can go with what I currently have. My F3 should be getting here later today and my Samsung 470 SSD will be arriving in the latter half of next week.

Feels good, man!

9XLDA.jpg
Isn't that CPU fan mounted the wrong way?
 

Emitan

Member
Is anyone having any problems more advanced than double POSTing on P8P67 boards? Mine will boot several times before finally saying "Overclocked failed. Press F1 to enter setup." Or something like that. I'm going to try updating the BIOS tonight. I know my RAM voltage is correct, but maybe the timings are off. I'm using 2x2GB 1.5v sticks.

EDIT: And I didn't upgrade/clean install Windows. But that wouldn't have anything to do with this, correct? I'm just adding it because it's the only other issue that could even remotely affect this.
 

MedIC86

Member
Rufus said:
Mount it on the other side, so it blows through the heat sink towards the rear fan.

or you can remove the case fan on the back, the front and top fan of the case will get you good airflow
 

dorkimoe

Member
I cant get my windows 7 machine to relocate the chrome temp folder.

I want to move the temp internet file folder off my ssd. Any tips?
 

mclaren777

Member
Rufus said:
Mount it on the other side, so it blows through the heat sink towards the rear fan.
I definitely see the logic in that (and I may take your advice) but there's a big 200mm exhaust fan directly above the 212+ and I'm hoping to handle most of my case cooling with that. The rear fan is connected to my fan controller, but I'm planning to run that as slowly as thermally possible for noise reasons (my wife will also be using this computer).
 

MedIC86

Member
Billychu said:
Is anyone having any problems more advanced than double POSTing on P8P67 boards? Mine will boot several times before finally saying "Overclocked failed. Press F1 to enter setup." Or something like that. I'm going to try updating the BIOS tonight. I know my RAM voltage is correct, but maybe the timings are off. I'm using 2x2GB 1.5v sticks.

EDIT: And I didn't upgrade/clean install Windows. But that wouldn't have anything to do with this, correct? I'm just adding it because it's the only other issue that could even remotely affect this.

No windows has nothing to do with booting or whatsoever, what exactly did you overclock ?
I dont know how experienced you are ofcourse, but if you overclocked both mem and cpu you might want to do one at a time to make sure the oc is absolutly perfect and then oc the other component. else its to hard to troubleshoot.
 

JoeBoy101

Member
mclaren777 said:
That's entirely possible.

What say you, GAF?

I'm not going to say anything given that based on these pictures I got my CPU fan mounted pointing upwards to the top fan and vent (i.e., rotate the cooler and put the fan below it. My temperatures are great though so, I just figured it was alright. Not like the fucking instructions were any help.
 

Jin34

Member
knitoe said:
If you have system instability, especially ram related, could cause problems installing programs.

So the Catalyst Install Manager crashing problem turned out to be a DLL file (Mfc80.dll module or the Mfc80u.dll module) that gets updated when installing the Microsoft SQL Server 2008 when you install Visual Studio. If you start getting problems with Catalyst or other programs that was made with Visual Studio 2005 go here for the fix:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/961894
 

mclaren777

Member
JoeBoy101 said:
I'm not going to say anything given that based on these pictures I got my CPU fan mounted pointing upwards to the top fan and vent (i.e., rotate the cooler and put the fan below it. My temperatures are great though so, I just figured it was alright. Not like the fucking instructions were any help.
The instructions were terrible and I actually wonder if pointing it upwards might be the best bet for people like us who use top exhaust fans.

Hmm...

Edit: internet speculation
 

mclaren777

Member
Source


Experiment #1, exhausting horizontally
Push, without 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 43/44/42/43
Load: 76/79/72/78

Push, with 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 42/42/41/42
Load: 74/77/70/76


Experiment #2, exhausting vertically

Push, without 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 45/44/43/44
Load: 79/81/74/79

Push, with 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 45/44/43/43
Load: 78/80/73/78
 

Emitan

Member
MedIC86 said:
No windows has nothing to do with booting or whatsoever, what exactly did you overclock ?
I dont know how experienced you are ofcourse, but if you overclocked both mem and cpu you might want to do one at a time to make sure the oc is absolutly perfect and then oc the other component. else its to hard to troubleshoot.
I only used the "Easy Mode" screen to overclock because I'm not really knowledgeable about OCing. If I set it to standard mode everything should be basically stock.
 

Rufus

Member
I have an Antec 300 (top fan) and the mobo + heat sink combo I have doesn't actually permit me to mount it any other way, temps are great. You want the fan to push air through the heat sink and preferably towards an exhaust fan. I only suggested to have it blowing towards the rear fan because you already have the heat sink installed that way.
But I see you'd have to take it out anyway to adjust the fan (since it's screwed into the heat sink), so there's that...
 

mclaren777

Member
Metalic Sand said:
I have my 212+ like yours except my fan is on the other side blowing to the back pushing and not pulling.
Do you have any clearance issues with your RAM? I just found this picture on Google...


1we3El.jpg
 

JoeBoy101

Member
mclaren777 said:
Source


Experiment #1, exhausting horizontally
Push, without 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 43/44/42/43
Load: 76/79/72/78

Push, with 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 42/42/41/42
Load: 74/77/70/76


Experiment #2, exhausting vertically

Push, without 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 45/44/43/44
Load: 79/81/74/79

Push, with 5.25" bay fan
Idle: 45/44/43/43
Load: 78/80/73/78

If it were more significant I would consider rearranging the fan, but given that test, and what my temps are running, I don't mind. Seems a bit weird though as, intuitively I figured warm air rising, better to push it out top.
 
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