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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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So it sounds like you own a u2410? I'd love it if you could measure the exact height (with stand) with the monitor raised as high as possible AND the monitor lowered as far as possible... If you could snap a picture of what it looks like when lowered, that would be GREATLY appreciated as well.Fredescu said:
Also, it'd be great to have your first-hand impressions of how crisp, clear it looks, how the colors and viewing angles are, etc.
I do see it's a lot more expensive, in the $500 range. I think the expanded resolution and options could be worth it, though. I have a Wii and a PS3; currently I only have one HDTV in the home, so it'd be nice to have another HDMI-compatible display.
Rodney McKay
Member
I've been messing around with CCC and RadeonPro lately and there is an annoying problem that has popped up.
When I've tried to force AA on a few games (Mass Effect, Red Faction 1, Star Wars: Empire at War) I've noticed that there is a lighter coloration a few pixels wide around the edge of my screen (sometimes just the left and top side).
The problem doesn't exist when I'm not using CCC or RadeonPro to force AA, so I know the problem isn't my monitor.
Something that's a little more worrying to me is that before I forced AA with Red Faction and Star Wars: EAW, I'm fairly certain that I could force AA on Mass Effect 1 WITHOUT the annoying edge problem, it only now just started doing it.
Has anyone heard of this problem or know of any solutions I could try?
When I've tried to force AA on a few games (Mass Effect, Red Faction 1, Star Wars: Empire at War) I've noticed that there is a lighter coloration a few pixels wide around the edge of my screen (sometimes just the left and top side).
The problem doesn't exist when I'm not using CCC or RadeonPro to force AA, so I know the problem isn't my monitor.
Something that's a little more worrying to me is that before I forced AA with Red Faction and Star Wars: EAW, I'm fairly certain that I could force AA on Mass Effect 1 WITHOUT the annoying edge problem, it only now just started doing it.
Has anyone heard of this problem or know of any solutions I could try?
Sure, I can do all that. It won't be for another 6-7 hours though. Have a look at those NEC options posted earlier too! They're hard to come by here in Australia. The only other IPS options I had at the time were the more expensive HP, and the cheaper AOC.Neiteio said:
This page has some good viewing angle tests: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/viewing_angle.php . Lagom should all be grey, and is grey on my IPS but varies from red to green on my TN. The full screen colours are uniform on the IPS, but usually a different colour at the top and the bottom on the TN based on where I'm sitting. As for real world tests, the thing that gave me the shits with my TN monitor was trying to play Uncharted of all things. I found I had to sit at just the right height or I'd be missing a lot of the scene at either the top or the bottom. It looked so much nicer on the IPS (I'm sure it's better still on a proper TV, that option isn't always available to me).
TOAO_Cyrus
Member
So this is the build I have settled on, I will be adding an SSD when the new ones come out.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=19127727
Suggestions?
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=19127727
Suggestions?
TOAO_Cyrus
Member
I don't need a DVD drive and I'm still working on finding an after market cooler. Supposedly the Coolermaster 212 blocks a ram slot so I'm trying to find one that I know works.
peppermints
Member
So.. what exactly is the difference between higher end LGA1155 boards and ones that are in the ~$130 price range? Better overclocking options? UEFI? Do I really need UEFI/can it be provided later via firmware update?
TOAO_Cyrus
Member
peppermints said:
Usually just more of everything like USB ports, Ethernet, PCIE, SATA etc. There are lots of UEFI MB's in the 130$ range, you can't upgrade a regular BIOS to UEFI as it requires different hardware.
You only need 2 ram slots. Blocking the closest slot to the CPU won't be an issue unless you plan on adding another 8GB (16GB total) later on. 8GB is plenty for now and future. You might want to spend a little more for $389 XFX 6970, lifetime warranty vs 2 years.TOAO_Cyrus said:
peppermints
Member
TOAO_Cyrus said:
Thanks! Could you point me in the direction of some of them? I've looked on Newegg and as far as I can tell there isn't a way to filter search with that as a feature.
peppermints
Member
knitoe said:
How do you like it? The Asus models I'm looking at have been getting pretty negative (although very few reviews are out there) reviews.
TOAO_Cyrus
Member
knitoe said:
Thanks for the suggestions, I went for the XFX and the Cooler Master.
Hey, PC Gaf. My mouse I use with my laptop bit the dirt earlier today. I want to find a replacement as soon as possible. I don't need anything too fancy, and I don't want to get anything expensive. Can anyone point me to a good wired USB mouse that would work well with a laptop, but that isn't too small and that can be used for some gaming/web browsing/other general purposes that can be carried along in my laptop bag? Thanks!
pirata said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826105185
I had that mouse (and still do) before switching to the Logitech MX518 and it's awesome for the price and tbh I kinda like it more for regular web browsing.
Does anybody know why my 2500k on a P8P67 won't overclock correctly? I can set the multi just fine, at 44x right now obviously shooting for 4.4GHz but the bus speed seems to automatically scale to always keep proc at 3.3, so under IntelBurnTest I'm at 75 x 44 right now for the stock 3.3.
Jin34 said:
Yeah I have my bclk set at 100 and my turbo at 44, but then I get this going on when idle and when under load....
Idle:
http://i.imgur.com/tlOFx.jpg
Load:
http://i.imgur.com/gGJV9.jpg
I have my GPU overclocked by a healthy amount using MSI Afterburner just fine, but this is a little dumbfounding to me. :lol
TOAO_Cyrus
Member
XenoRaven said:
Nope just install them both like normal and select the SSD when you install windows. If you didn't format the regular HD during setup you can do it later via windows CP. I prefer to have the OS on the first SATA port but it doesn't really matter.
Teknopathetic
Member
I don't have an Asus board so make sure to google and shit first, but I believe you might need to increase the maximum wattage your CPU can draw or else it'll throttle once it reaches that point.
Teknopathetic said:
Well I rebooted a good 5 times earlier this evening trying to figure out what the problem, and I do have the "Maximum CPU Wattage Draw" or whatever the option is called set on auto so it should take whatever wattage it needs until deemed unsafe by the processor itself, right? At least that's my understanding of it. Tomorrow morning I may set it to limit itself at 1.5V or so, as that seems to be the common wattage that most CPU's can handle according to dudes in this thread.
What MB do you have? Get CPU-Z 1.56.2. The version you have may not be reading sand bridge cpu info correctly. And, use Prime95 to stress test. From my experience the last few days, I could run IBT max, you are only on standard, for hours and fail Prime95 within minutes.InertiaXr said:
Try Windows 7 Service Pack 1 RTM. I am running it w/o issue.Prodigal said:Arg I keep getting this damned BSOD in Win 7 and I even installed the hot fix as recommended by a bunch of sites and it's still present.
http://www.softpedia.com/progDownload/Windows-7-Service-Pack-1-Download-163177.html
Prodigal said:Arg I keep getting this damned BSOD in Win 7 and I even installed the hot fix as recommended by a bunch of sites and it's still present.
BSOD can be caused by anything, a driver update seems to have fixed my BSOD issue, at least I haven't gotten one since I updated my nvidia drivers to the newly released version.
I probably just jinxed it!
Just keep trying different things, and run tests like memtest and prime95 to make sure it isn't a hardware issue.
Hawk269
Member
Well thanks to EVGA's Step Up Program, I finally received my 580 Card yesterday. For the 18.00 Shipping and Handling I was able to go from a 480 to the 580 which to me is great program that they have.
But of course, things can't always go easy. Everything seems to be going fine, but Rivatunars DOverrider is not working with the new card. No matter what I have tried, I cannot get it to work with the new card. I usually have it auto V-Sync and tripple buffering.
It worked fine with the 480, worked fine with my 460 that I usually use as a physx card, but was using it as my main until the 580 came in. I am not sure why it is not working or what else I can try.
Any help or recommendations?
Thanks in advance for any help/assistence.
But of course, things can't always go easy. Everything seems to be going fine, but Rivatunars DOverrider is not working with the new card. No matter what I have tried, I cannot get it to work with the new card. I usually have it auto V-Sync and tripple buffering.
It worked fine with the 480, worked fine with my 460 that I usually use as a physx card, but was using it as my main until the 580 came in. I am not sure why it is not working or what else I can try.
Any help or recommendations?
Thanks in advance for any help/assistence.
knitoe said:
Got 1.56.2 and it read 100 bus and 44 multi instantly so I WAS at 4.4GHz
How long do I need to run either prime95 or IBT? I'm assuming after 2-3 hours under load it will be pretty much stabilized right?Edit: Currently running prime95 and at around 60celsius on all 4 cores, well under the dangerous range for temps right?
Edit 2: Even more amazing is I put the damn HSF in the wrong way so I have the fan pulling air from below and pushing it straight through the fins and vertical through the case, rather than the pulling from front to back like most people seem to do.
It's up to you. I usually go at least 4 hrs using Prime95 "small FFTs...". Some people say 12, 24 or few days. Don't use IBT. Doesn't seem really stress test sand bridge.InertiaXr said:Got 1.56.2 and it read 100 bus and 44 multi instantly so I WAS at 4.4GHz
Edit: Currently running prime95 and at around 60celsius on all 4 cores, well under the dangerous range for temps right?
As long as you are under 80C, it's fine. What's your Vcore?
knitoe said:
Thanks, gonna try that.
Although I just read that people were having issues with speedstep on certain machines like in this thread, and while I have an i2500k and not an older i5, my BSODs have only been while browsing the internet or something similar, never while playing a game or anything intensive.
knitoe said:
Vcore: 1.320 and 1.328, it bounces back and forth for whatever reason.
I've got Prime95 on that small FFT option:
http://i.imgur.com/X7jOE.jpg
Hey, guys, look at this Craigslist posting I stumbled upon while seeing if they had cheap mice:
http://austin.craigslist.org/sys/2171552852.html
Does this look like a good deal? How good is it?
(The chances of me biting are low, since I already have a laptop and my parents would probably frown on me spending my money on another computer while I'm still in the dorm, BUT I was thinking of building a PC later this year, and this could maybe be a good buy...or should I just wait until the second half of the year to make my own and take advantage of future price drops/advances?)
http://austin.craigslist.org/sys/2171552852.html
Does this look like a good deal? How good is it?
(The chances of me biting are low, since I already have a laptop and my parents would probably frown on me spending my money on another computer while I'm still in the dorm, BUT I was thinking of building a PC later this year, and this could maybe be a good buy...or should I just wait until the second half of the year to make my own and take advantage of future price drops/advances?)
You should be able to lower the Vcore and making temp drop more. Run prime95 for 10-15 min. If it pass, lower core voltage by 0.010 and repeat. Once you get to a point where Windows locks up , increase Vcore by 0.010 and test. If it continues to fail, increase Vcore by 0.005 each time until you can run prime95 for few hours.InertiaXr said:
Use CPUID Hardware Monitor to check on voltage. Seems more accurate than CPU-Z.
Drkirby said:
Yeah, didn't really care about the games (had a sneaking suspicion that they wouldn't work anyway). Yeah, I'll stay away. By the time late summer rolls around, the same PC would probably cost way less, or I could get way better parts, or both. When does GAF think would be a good time for me to bite on a new PC (based on GAF's profound knowledge of currant and future tech releases and/or general feelings)?
God, the very idea of building a PC frightens me. Thankfully I have a more-experienced friend and GAF to help me along and hold me tightly when things get scary
Unknown Soldier
Member
I just upgraded my laptop with a Seagate Momentus XT 500GB drive. No, it's no SSD. The write speeds will make that pretty clear right away. But if you give the drive a chance to cache frequently read data to the 4GB onboard SLC NAND you'll get SSD-like read speeds on your frequently used applications and Windows. I boot Windows in literally seconds now and launch my Firefox instantaneously. For $120 it was a no-brainer upgrade for my laptop. Just make sure you update the drive's firmware to the latest version, SD24 to prevent frequent hangs due to the drive spinning itself down for no good goddamn reason.
The original 320GB HDD which came with my laptop now lives in my PS3.
The original 320GB HDD which came with my laptop now lives in my PS3.
evil solrac v3.0
Member
pirata said:
well, first off the guy sounds like a jackass for selling his Christmas gift because he needs a netbook. and second, no he's asking way too much.
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