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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Hey guys, can you tell me what you think of this build? I'm building my first PC, with the primary goal of being able to play Skyrim maxed at 50-60FPS, if that's realistic.

Here are my parts:

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042
MoBo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128543
GPU: AMD 7850 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127663
PSU: 620W http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
CPU: Core i5 2400 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115074
SSD: Crucial M4
RAM: 8GB G.SKILL http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

Anywhere I can save money?

I do realize I'm missing a disc drive, which I'm guessing is required for drivers still these days, as well as an OS, which I hope to get through a friend with a student discount.

Anything I'm missing though, as well? Small things, like maybe thermal paste or something?
 
Drop down to a 520W Seasonic.

Get an H77 motherboard instead because you're not overclocking. Upgrade that i5 to a 2500k if you ARE overclocking.

You don't need a disc drive. Just grab the ISO from Microsoft and use their USB tool. Install from USB. Download drivers as well.
 
Arc Midi


2.5" support for mechanical or SSD? Because you can double tape SSD's anywhere.

Heh, mine literally kind of lays loose in one of my 5.25" bays.

When I first installed my first SSD with my oldass case and whatever, I was like "oh no how am I gonna mount this". Then it struck me, it's solid state. No moving parts, you can pretty much put it anywhere, provided you dont move your case around a lot of course.
 

clav

Member
Yeah, mITX cases and boards are getting to the point that you can get a real high-end computer (full length GPU, ATX PSU, chipset with overclocking etc) with them for basically the same price as a ATX system. The new Fractal Design mITX case and the Prodigy are both sleak as fuck, my next upgrade will definitely be a mITX system.

*Fractal Design Node 304 pics*

Want.

I have a feeling the MSRP is going to be $100+ though.
 

RS4-

Member
Hmm, I wonder if it's worth it to get it fixed...

I actually had mine replaced a few times via Samsung warranty. Google around your model number and capacitors and see if its a problem that others have had.

Actually I think mine was out of warranty and they still fixed it. Caps are easy to do yourself but it's just a matter of finding the right ones.

It was just so annoying dealing with it, when it wouldn't turn in (and when it did, I couldn't turn it off without risking the chance that it won't turn on again for 10-15 mins or hours lol).
 
So this is what I've pieced together so far. I wonder if you guys can make some case and motherboard recommendations. I'm planning on maybe going with the Crossover 27Q for a display. I really like the looks of the Corsair 600T but not sure if I want to reach that much on price for the case. Right off the bat, is my PSU too little?

DVD
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM

CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K

HDD
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

SSD
ADATA S510 Series AS510S3-120GM-O 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - OEM

RAM
G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBNT

Power
SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

GPU
EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel ...

Total Cost so far = $990
 
I have a friend that has an HP computer with a 250W power supply and is looking for a video card so he can do light gaming on it (wants to run Amnesia, Minecraft, etc.) I'm not really sure what to recommend him. He doesn't want to get a new power supply. Any ideas?
 
Is the 560 Ti 448 cores really that much better than the EVGA SuperClocked? I'm throwing together a semi-budget build since I'm replacing my iMac with a MacBook Air. I see the 448 cores getting mentioned a lot but $270 seems kind of steep for that card. I remember paying around $300 for my GTX 570.
 

zoku88

Member
I actually had mine replaced a few times via Samsung warranty. Google around your model number and capacitors and see if its a problem that others have had.

Actually I think mine was out of warranty and they still fixed it. Caps are easy to do yourself but it's just a matter of finding the right ones.

It was just so annoying dealing with it, when it wouldn't turn in (and when it did, I couldn't turn it off without risking the chance that it won't turn on again for 10-15 mins or hours lol).

I'll try looking around. I'm not sure how BenQ is with out of warranty repairs (this is like 4 years or so out of warranty, I think).
 

JayDub

Member
Don't look at FPS difference, look at percentage difference. It's more like 30-50% in the CPU bound games. Simple as this though, if you want something more powerful now, get a new videocard. Once performance just isn't cutting it for you or if you start playing a game that requires too much out of your CPU, then you upgrade the rest of the system.

They aren't but both ASRock and ASUS have awesome itx boards.

ASUS Z77-I Deluxe

1330993615hiXMTMZJxb_1_16_l.jpg


ASRock Z77E-ITX

21d8d_Z77E-ITX-45o.jpg


You can fit any size of videocard in the case, as well as two radiators if you want a totally watercooled build. I have a pretty sweet plan for mine. :p

This is my #1 agenda, to get everyone on board with 120hz. #2 is the 30nm Samsung RAM. Glad you are enjoying it! Truly makes games feel like that step up to a different fidelity.

Released yet? Benefits? :)


Oh my...with those ITX boards. 2x8gb, gtx690 (that slot is 16x?) in a small form factor...holy shit

EDIT: holy crap. Just looked up that z77-I deluxe, comes with wifi and Bluetooth, and 4x ram slots. If I can secure that 690, an ITX build with the bitfenix prodigy is my next build.

Although, there doesn't seem to be room for a radiator AND a optical drive. Can I mount the h100 rad on the front? I've only ever seen it mounted on the top.

Also, I only ever need an optical drive for the OS installation/reformatting..if i choose to build sans drive how do I go about installing the OS without it? Keep in mind I don't own a pc right now, just an iPad, so I can't download an iso of the OS and put it on a USB.
 

hauton

Member
Just a GPU upgrade and an overclock if you haven't done that. New CPUs are not much faster.
GPU - I know the 5850 is getting old, but I think I'm going to wait for more news about the next-gen consoles.

CPU - I'm running stock clocks because stock cooling sucks. Even after cleaning a crapload of dust, it still doesn't let me run a lot higher than 3.0GHz without encountering problems. I think a CPU cooler is one of the things at the top of my list, but...

Case - If I'm going to get an aftermarket cooler, I want a better case to prevent dust buildup. The Antec 300 isn't doing the job for me - maybe because I haven't added all the fans/filters to create proper airflow. Any suggestions? I want as much airflow/cooling with as little dust as possible. I don't care at all about looks, and I don't really care about capacity - I have an HDD, an SSD, and an entirely optional DVD drive. That's it. I don't need 20 bays or whatever.

Motherboard - I absolutely hate this motherboard. The Marvell SATA 6GB/s/USB 3.0 controller is a complete crock of shit that makes my SSD disappear 3/4 boots if I try to plug it in so I'm stuck with SATA 3GB/s. But there's nothing I can do about it, not unless I want a new CPU as well (and maybe RAM? is everything using that triple channel thing now?)

So I think I'm limited to getting a new case and a new CPU cooler, as much as I would like to throw this garbage mobo out the window. Thoughts anyone?
 
Yeah, mITX cases and boards are getting to the point that you can get a real high-end computer (full length GPU, ATX PSU, chipset with overclocking etc) with them for basically the same price as a ATX system. The new Fractal Design mITX case and the Prodigy are both sleak as fuck, my next upgrade will definitely be a mITX system.


What is the noise level on this things?
 
Drop down to a 520W Seasonic.

Get an H77 motherboard instead because you're not overclocking. Upgrade that i5 to a 2500k if you ARE overclocking.

You don't need a disc drive. Just grab the ISO from Microsoft and use their USB tool. Install from USB. Download drivers as well.

This Seasonic?

Can I not overclock the 2400 then, or does it just not overclock as well?

Thanks for your help, btw.
 

knitoe

Member
So somebody has already mentioned the Samsung 830 128 SSD is $89.99 with a $40 off promo code, right?

Maybe? Deal ends today, the code is EMCYTZT1751.

Wow. And, I thought I got a deal for 2 X $109 last month. If only I had MB that can run 4 in raid 0, I would jump on 2 more.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
CPU confirmed dead.
Still think that's like a 1/100,000 possibility. Damn. At least I can get a used 2600K now :/
So somebody has already mentioned the Samsung 830 128 SSD is $89.99 with a $40 off promo code, right?

Maybe? Deal ends today, the code is EMCYTZT1751.
Damn, that's an insane deal.
 

Fantastical

Death Prophet
So somebody has already mentioned the Samsung 830 128 SSD is $89.99 with a $40 off promo code, right?

Maybe? Deal ends today, the code is EMCYTZT1751.

Are you kidding me? :( No longer works.
EDIT: Contacted customer support. Said they ran out, couldn't do anything, and they were contacting the manufacturer.

>_<
 
I'm trying to build my new PC and am already struggling with something.

The SSD adapter in the Bitfenix Shinobi is stuck, I loosened the one screw that should hold it, but it still just won't budge but 2-3cm...and there's already a little piece of plastic that broke off.

Please help GAF ;(
 

drexplora

Member
Are you kidding me? :( No longer works.
EDIT: Contacted customer support. Said they ran out, couldn't do anything, and they were contacting the manufacturer.

>_<

fahhkkk!!
I was just about to buy one had it in my cart with promo applied!
Got caught up watching that zeitgeist film and now its too late :(
 

Ledsen

Member
I'm trying to build my new PC and am already struggling with something.

The SSD adapter in the Bitfenix Shinobi is stuck, I loosened the one screw that should hold it, but it still just won't budge but 2-3cm...and there's already a little piece of plastic that broke off.

Please help GAF ;(

SSD adapter? Do you mean for holding the SSD? Just tape it somewhere, it doesn't need a special bay like a HDD.
 

KarmaCow

Member
Is overclocking an i5 3570K similar to overclocking a i5 2500K? I'm trying to read up on it, but I assume that an Ivy bridge equivalent to the one in the OP isn't written yet since it's fairly new. I don't plan on going past 4.4GHz, so if I understood the guide correctly, I shouldn't have to worry about tweaking voltages right?

Also are there any good guides for overclocking a 460? My terrible google searches have shown guides talking about ramping it up to ~850MHz though the card I bought is already at 823MHz. The guides make it seem like it's just moving sliders in MSI Afterburner, but a rough target or barrier to look out for would be nice.

fake edit: It's pretty late to ask this but a 550W PSU should be enough to moderately overclock both my GPU and CPU right?
 
Is overclocking an i5 3570K similar to overclocking a i5 2500K? I'm trying to read up on it, but I assume that an Ivy bridge equivalent to the one in the OP isn't written yet since it's fairly new. I don't plan on going past 4.4GHz, so if I understood the guide correctly, I shouldn't have to worry about tweaking voltages right?

The big thing about Ivy Bridge is that you will run into thermal limits (IE it gets too hot) before you run into frequency limits. So even though your chip can run at 4.7 Ghz, it'll probably hit the danger level in temperatures (over 90C easy) while doing so.

Overclocking Ivy Bridge involves finding the lowest functional voltage for the frequency you want to run at so you don't end up overheating the chip.
 

KarmaCow

Member
The big thing about Ivy Bridge is that you will run into thermal limits (IE it gets too hot) before you run into frequency limits. So even though your chip can run at 4.7 Ghz, it'll probably hit the danger level in temperatures (over 90C easy) while doing so.

Overclocking Ivy Bridge involves finding the lowest functional voltage for the frequency you want to run at so you don't end up overheating the chip.

Most of the information about the 3570K I've been reading about has come from forums posts about people easily bumping it up by 1GHz to 4.4GHz with minimal voltage increase and having run cool/stable. Perhaps I shouldn't have trusted quick searches of forum posts but should I be worried about approaching thermal limits at <4.5GHz?
 

Shambles

Member
Most of the information about the 3570K I've been reading about has come from forums posts about people easily bumping it up by 1GHz to 4.4GHz with minimal voltage increase and having run cool/stable. Perhaps I shouldn't have trusted quick searches of forum posts but should I be worried about approaching thermal limits at <4.5GHz?

You'll be ok at 4.5. Generally the chip runs cool but once it starts to hit the thermal wall it ramps up really fast. Usually it doesn't take much to hit 4.4, 4.5 but you start seeing massive temperature increases once you start to get above that. Your expectations are fairly realistic with a decent air cooler. When Ivy Bridge came out there were a lot of us hoping to be able to hit 5Ghz overclocks and we were dissapointed that it's simply not an option for air cooling.
 

Ocho

Member
The 500R/400R/300R are all not that great. Corsair has expanded too much too fast in recent years. The 690II Advanced and Fractal Arc Midi are better in just about every measurable way.

Also, the fans that come with the H100 are pretty loud and not that great for how fast they spin.

Why do you think the 500R is not great? I really don't see why you'd say it's not great, and I'm interested in knowing your opinion (before I buy it).
 
Why do you think the 500R is not great? I really don't see why you'd say it's not great, and I'm interested in knowing your opinion (before I buy it).

I have the 500R. The only thing I don't like is that the front and side fans use a molex power connector and don't plug into the motherboard. There's a switch on the front for manually controlling the fan speed, but it does very little.
 

ccbfan

Member
Most of the information about the 3570K I've been reading about has come from forums posts about people easily bumping it up by 1GHz to 4.4GHz with minimal voltage increase and having run cool/stable. Perhaps I shouldn't have trusted quick searches of forum posts but should I be worried about approaching thermal limits at <4.5GHz?

4.4 should be fine.

I don't keep my 3570K OCed since it already has more processing power than I need but I sometimes play with it to see how high I can get at stock voltage. I hit 4.4 and temps were in the 50s when I run the stress tests. I'm using a 212+ and a cheap case with 2 fans.
 

abunai

Member
Well, I pulled the trigger. Parts arrived and I assembled.

  • Intel Core i5 3570k
  • Samsung 8GB DDR3 RAM
  • Asus P8Z77-PRO
  • Crucial M4 128GB SSD

Recycled my psu/hdd/case etc. Runs amazing. Tried overclocking, got it to 4.2GHz which is plenty for me. Any more than that and it BSOD anyway. I might play with it later though.
I'll be getting a 670 or 680 at some point soon to finish it off. :D

e: realised my voltage setting didn't save for some reason. 4.5Ghz now, 55c load. So happy.
 

LordAlu

Member
Yeah, got a 500R here. Quite fond of it. Though if it's silence you want, you should probably look elsewhere.
Aye, mine isn't silent, although it is a lot quieter than my old PC. I keep my fans on low though and only turn them up for a good gaming session. Very good quality case though.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Released yet? Benefits? :)


Oh my...with those ITX boards. 2x8gb, gtx690 (that slot is 16x?) in a small form factor...holy shit

EDIT: holy crap. Just looked up that z77-I deluxe, comes with wifi and Bluetooth, and 4x ram slots. If I can secure that 690, an ITX build with the bitfenix prodigy is my next build.

Although, there doesn't seem to be room for a radiator AND a optical drive. Can I mount the h100 rad on the front? I've only ever seen it mounted on the top.

Also, I only ever need an optical drive for the OS installation/reformatting..if i choose to build sans drive how do I go about installing the OS without it? Keep in mind I don't own a pc right now, just an iPad, so I can't download an iso of the OS and put it on a USB.
They're both out. The ASUS has a daughter VRM board which means more stable OC at lower voltages.

There is not room for both. You can install windows from a usb drive. The Maximum PC article on how to do it is lengthy, but has given me a stable windows install every time. It also cuts down the installation time to like 8 minutes.

You can put a 240mm radiator on the top, and a 200mm radiator in the front. Quite delicious.
GPU - I know the 5850 is getting old, but I think I'm going to wait for more news about the next-gen consoles.

CPU - I'm running stock clocks because stock cooling sucks. Even after cleaning a crapload of dust, it still doesn't let me run a lot higher than 3.0GHz without encountering problems. I think a CPU cooler is one of the things at the top of my list, but...

Case - If I'm going to get an aftermarket cooler, I want a better case to prevent dust buildup. The Antec 300 isn't doing the job for me - maybe because I haven't added all the fans/filters to create proper airflow. Any suggestions? I want as much airflow/cooling with as little dust as possible. I don't care at all about looks, and I don't really care about capacity - I have an HDD, an SSD, and an entirely optional DVD drive. That's it. I don't need 20 bays or whatever.

Motherboard - I absolutely hate this motherboard. The Marvell SATA 6GB/s/USB 3.0 controller is a complete crock of shit that makes my SSD disappear 3/4 boots if I try to plug it in so I'm stuck with SATA 3GB/s. But there's nothing I can do about it, not unless I want a new CPU as well (and maybe RAM? is everything using that triple channel thing now?)

So I think I'm limited to getting a new case and a new CPU cooler, as much as I would like to throw this garbage mobo out the window. Thoughts anyone?
OP choices are literally the best cases you can buy. Feist knows his stuff, and I've built in most of those by this point, so I'd give him the +1 always. CM690II is the 'best value' case in terms of performance and ability. Fractal Arc is pretty much the same thing but with a better filter system, bit more room for cable management, and more room for watercooling.
What is the noise level on this things?
Normal. Fans determine noise, not case size.
Is the P67/Z68 guide for OCing 2500K in the OP good enough to use to OC a Z77/3570K ?
Yep, its the same system. No BCLK tinkering because the memory controller for SB/IB sucks.
Another 500r owner here. It gets da job done.

Mkenyon brought out the pack
Haha, notice I said 'not great', not 'bad'. Sure it gets the job done. But when you literally go through 10 cases in a few years yourself and do a ton of builds for others in a bunch of different cases, you tend to get more picky. It's not that it isn't good, it's just that Corsair QC has kind of gone down a bit and they're shipping with all sorts of little imperfections. That's not something you'd see on a 690II or Fractal Arc Midi, both of which are less expensive and better in every measurable way. Corsair is growing too fast.

*edit*
My con list (which really is a lot smaller than the pro list):

-The fans are some of the worst in the industry.
-Lots of reported issues with bad paint, the one that I've built in had similar issues.
-Non offset roof mounting for fan, this means no push/pull on H100, nor can you even set it up for exhaust without taking out a dremel.
-Mesh on top of mesh on top of mesh, side panel mesh is so overkill.
-Fan controller is so bad it might as well not even exist.

Compared to a Fractal Arc Midi, the only slight benefit you get is that the 500R has a bit more room for cable management. You hit a point where there's enough, and more room after that is just to allow laziness in cable management. The Arc is $40 less, the 690II is $50-70 less. With that difference, you can buy some ridiculously high end aftermarket fans and have a near silent case that moves way more air than the 500R.

Heck, you can get the Shinobi XL if it's room that you want for the same price on NCIX US.
 

Ocho

Member
Compared to a Fractal Arc Midi, the only slight benefit you get is that the 500R has a bit more room for cable management. You hit a point where there's enough, and more room after that is just to allow laziness in cable management. The Arc is $40 less, the 690II is $50-70 less. With that difference, you can buy some ridiculously high end aftermarket fans and have a near silent case that moves way more air than the 500R.
.

If I go 690II, which specific fans do you recommend? Can it fit Corsair's H100?

Edit: Remembered this list:

mkenyon said:
Noctua NF-F12s, Swiftech Helix, Bitfenix Spectre Pro, and Scythe GT AP14/15 are the best choices for it.

So two 120s to replace H100's, 1 140 for front intake, 1 120 for back exhaust, and two side 120 fans?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Side fans are only needed if your videocards are running hot.

*edit* also, those fans are specifically for use on a heatsink or radiator. There are better fans for just case air flow.
 
Side fans are only needed if your videocards are running hot.

*edit* also, those fans are specifically for use on a heatsink or radiator. There are better fans for just case air flow.

I have a similar question. My case comes with a 120mm rear fan with possible expansions of 1 side fan (120mm), 1 front fan (120mm), and 2 top fans (120/140mm). Would the rear exhaust fan and a front intake fan be enough for a non-OC'd Sandy Bridge with stock cooler and a non-OC'd 6870 GPU with dual fans on the card? Micro ATX case form factor, standard bottom power supply layout. Please let me know from a a)component safety perspective and b)a low noise perspective.
 

mkenyon

Banned
The dual fan thing is the only issue I'd worry about. Since it's mATX, a single intake and a single exhaust should be fine as long as the fans have decent CFM. The balancing act with those non-reference coolers is getting it cooled enough from case fans to keep it from spinning up, but without adding too many case fans that end up making the same noise. What case, out of curiosity?
 

Ocho

Member
Side fans are only needed if your videocards are running hot.

*edit* also, those fans are specifically for use on a heatsink or radiator. There are better fans for just case air flow.

Ok, I will get two to replace stock H100's fans. Do you recommend replacing stock CM 690 II's fans? If so, which ones do you recommend for air flow?
 

dskillzhtown

keep your strippers out of my American football
I have the 500R. The only thing I don't like is that the front and side fans use a molex power connector and don't plug into the motherboard. There's a switch on the front for manually controlling the fan speed, but it does very little.

I have the 600T. I love it though I probably need to replace the fans in it.
 
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