Guess there is a guide in OP?
If not, there'll be one in your motherboard's manual.
Guess there is a guide in OP?
If not, there'll be one in your motherboard's manual.
Can someone tell if 82C in some games with my GTX 670FTW is normal? I put prefer maximum performance in the power management mode, and I'm getting really high temps, and much higher gpu usage. I'm not sure which is better.
Is there no scroll wheel on that mouse? How do you live like that?!
Don't think so, looks good.Is there anything astonishingly wrong with this build?
I'd be looking at this 670 instead of the one listed, but the site wouldn't allow me to put that one in my configuration for some reason.
I have Windows 7 Pro already and will use that key since I won't need it any more, so that's not a problem. Any advice and tweaks are welcome
Is there anything astonishingly wrong with this build?
I'd be looking at this 670 instead of the one listed, but the site wouldn't allow me to put that one in my configuration for some reason.
I have Windows 7 Pro already and will use that key since I won't need it any more, so that's not a problem. Any advice and tweaks are welcome
Gordon Bennett!
I need to stop shopping around for video cards!
I have confused myself now, and I need someone who knows more than I do (shouldnt be hard lol.)
I have already decided I want a 6870 in my build, but I am confused as to which one I should buy.
These are the two that are competing.
Asus card.
http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/part/asus-video-card-eah6870dc2di2s1gd5
MSI card.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/1gb-...am-processors-hdmi-2x-mini-displayport-2x-dvi
Sorry guys but I just am not sure.
Just noticed that the Asus doesnt have an HDMI port, and I will be wiring it up to my TV which has HDMI or VGA plugs, can I still use the Asus?
Is there a way to convert into HDMI or VGA from display port or DVI-I? I dont really want to plug into seperate speakers either like VGA would require though.
I'd add one top exhaust, then on more intake. Side or bottom is fine.Looking to get another fan or two so that I can keep the side panel on, this look like a good plan?
atm it is dead silent when idling; recommendations on fans for keeping it that way?
Should be an option in your BIOS under fan/temp control.Speaking of fans, how can I stop my CPU fan from idling at over 2000 RPM? I'd like it to spin up if it needs to, like the GPU fans do automatically.
See the OP for mobo list. It's a good enough board.Does anyone have any experience with the AsRock Z77 Extreme4? The Mobo is the last thing I need to complete my new rig, but reviews aren't too helpful with motherboards. Or if you have any suggestions on other boards in the same price range, that is much appreciated.
That mobo, PSU, and SSD have to go for starters. Look at OP builds.I'm building a new computer for myself. My wife's computer is getting old and she wants to take mine and for me to get a new one. I'm probably going to build this time. Just looking for a little feedback/reality check.
My current system:
cpu: i7 860
mem 16 gig
Hard drive 500 gig WD 7200 rm / 64mb cache
Video card: EVGA 560 2 gb
My goals for the new system: As fast as my current system or better, smaller, quieter, and uses less power. I'm not getting any sort of optical drive.
The issues I'm having are the micro ATX MB only supports 6gigs of memory (I want 32, just because) and it is currently $150 over budget. (not solid limit)
What I'm thinking about buying:
Fractal Design Define Mini Black Micro ATX Silent PC Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352011
Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136891
SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 7850 2GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986
CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 430W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
CORSAIR 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233270
GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128540
Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115234
OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227726
It hasn't taken a drop, they've just been selling low end CX power supplies (and GS) using the Corsair name. The Antec EA and VP and BP are better.I think my new PC's PSU is about to go.
Starting about 20 minutes ago whenever I boot up a game it starts buzzing.
It only occurs under load. It is an audible "eeeeeeeeee" noise with some clicking (not as audible). The more intense the graphics the louder it is. It is definitely coming from the PSU.
Google searches suggest it is coil whine, which I guess isn't a defect. But this is very sudden. It didn't make any noise until now. Are there any "coil whine" proof PSU brands or models out there? I'm looking at an OCZ 650w modular right now. I hear Corsair's quality has taken a drop.
MSI. Cheaper, same card. You can use the 2xdisplay ports to convert to HDMI if you need itQuoting myself for new page.
Absolutely. What are you temps?My laptop started to overheat after 10-15 minutes of playing 3D games. I already disassembled it and wiped the dust off the heatsink and the fan (there wasn't much of it anyway), but it didn't help. Do you guys think changing thermal compound would help?
Should be HDD only if you are on an updated recent OS (I think). I leave mine on because I dislike the startup delay and my pagefile is on my HDD. So I can't help you.So with a SSD and HDD, does the power options setting for 'turning off the hard disk after x minutes' only affect the HDD? If so, what should this setting be set to?
Absolutely. What are you temps?
It hasn't taken a drop, they've just been selling low end CX power supplies (and GS) using the Corsair name. The Antec EA and VP and BP are better.
The CX430w was a good unit, but the current 400/500/600CX's are not.
Coilwhine is something that just happens, on some models more than others. NeoECO's seem to have it more than usual.
Get this if you can: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093
I leave mine on too. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong on that front. Thanks!Should be HDD only if you are on an updated recent OS (I think). I leave mine on because I dislike the startup delay and my pagefile is on my HDD. So I can't help you.
- Anyone have experience with HP:s 27" screen compared to Dells 27"? I selected the HP screen to keep the price down a bit.
I'm looking at the 1440p version. What Korean panels are you speaking about? Not sure i'm able to buy them here in Sweden.
- Do I need any extra CPU cooler even though i'm not planning on overclocking? Is the stock cooler good both regarding performance and noise level?
AnandTech's review of the 3770K. The 3570K is the same CPU, but without hyperthreading which means 10-20% worse performance at very threaded tasks like rendering and some games.While I had no issues getting my 3770K up to 4.6GHz on the stock cooler, Sandy Bridge will likely be the better overclocker for most.
MSI. Cheaper, same card. You can use the 2xdisplay ports to convert to HDMI if you need it
I bought this exact one from the same seller and had better service and shipping than I got from Newegg. He ships worldwide for free, but you may want to check on any import taxes you may have to pay on things from South Korea. Not sure how that works in Sweden.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033
A few other people in this thread bought from the same guy and had similar glowing impressions as well.
The stock cooler is totally ok, you can even overclock a little bit with it. If you're not planning on overclocking you could go for a non-K model, but overclocking the sandy/ivy bridge CPUs is really easy.
AnandTech's review of the 3770K. The 3570K is the same CPU, but without hyperthreading which means 10-20% worse performance at very threaded tasks like rendering and some games.
Hi guys,
Well, I think my video card is fried. I spilled a little bit of beer on it and it still runs but Windows won't enable it. The reasoning in device manager is because "of a problem" lol. It's an EVGA GTX 570. It's still under warranty but I don't think they'll accept an RMA because a) I spilled beer on it, and b) I don't have the original box. Right now I have my old GTX 260 installed.
So I guess I'm in the market for a new video card. I have an i5-2500k and 8 GB of ram. I want to stick with Nvidia for my next card. Should I go for the 670/680? Should I just buy another 570? Any help would be appreciated! thank you
670 if you can afford it. I would still try to RMA the 570. Worth a shot at least.
I need to know how to mount my hard drive in the cage of an arc tower midi.
There are screws that secure the hard drive plates but idk how to mount my hard drive on the plate itself.IIRC you just pull the cage out of the case (no screws or anything), attach the hard drive, then push it back it in.
Hi guys,
Well, I think my video card is fried. I spilled a little bit of beer on it and it still runs but Windows won't enable it. The reasoning in device manager is because "of a problem" lol. It's an EVGA GTX 570. It's still under warranty but I don't think they'll accept an RMA because a) I spilled beer on it, and b) I don't have the original box. Right now I have my old GTX 260 installed.
So I guess I'm in the market for a new video card. I have an i5-2500k and 8 GB of ram. I want to stick with Nvidia for my next card. Should I go for the 670/680? Should I just buy another 570? Any help would be appreciated! thank you
Just wondering, how does one spill beer on a video card? lol
Hi guys,
Well, I think my video card is fried. I spilled a little bit of beer on it and it still runs but Windows won't enable it. The reasoning in device manager is because "of a problem" lol. It's an EVGA GTX 570. It's still under warranty but I don't think they'll accept an RMA because a) I spilled beer on it, and b) I don't have the original box. Right now I have my old GTX 260 installed.
So I guess I'm in the market for a new video card. I have an i5-2500k and 8 GB of ram. I want to stick with Nvidia for my next card. Should I go for the 670/680? Should I just buy another 570? Any help would be appreciated! thank you
Haha it was quite a perfect storm actually.
I have a case that has a large grate opening on the top
I opened a beer on my desk and the force from opening it sent some droplets flying. A couple drops fell right through the grate and onto my video card. Instantly my screen went black
Screw it in from the bottom. Probably says it in your case manual.There are screws that secure the hard drive plates but idk how to mount my hard drive on the plate itself.
Black Friday generally sucks. You can get random stuff like SSDs, maybe a PSU, headset, etc. Good way to go if you want to pinch every penny:Okay you win, a friend who lives nearby says he can help me build, but I'll probably have to wait until later in the fall. What are Black Friday prices like on PC parts? Particularly in places like Microcenter?
The aftermarket ones are both more efficient at transfering heat as well as quieter. Judging by the Antec P280 in your cart, that's important to you. Also, Fractal Define R3 > Antec P280, and cheaper.Thinking about pulling the trigger and order a new PC. Allthough, before ordering, I got a few questions to the experts here at GAF.
- Do I need any extra CPU cooler even though i'm not planning on overclocking? Is the stock cooler good both regarding performance and noise level?
- Is the GTX 670 worth the extra 120 euro it will cost me compared to a radeon HD 7870?
I think Corsair and G.Skill source from the same OEM for the value brands.Does anyone else have problems with Corsair? It seems that a second time Corsair memory (vengeance) are broken or atleast cause me BSOD's.
Are G.skill more trustworthy with memory?
I think Corsair and G.Skill source from the same OEM for the value brands.
RAM is probably the post prone to needing RMA's, and it's probably because they're an anagram of each other. At least that's my theory. It's a crapshoot no matter who you go with.
Any way to stop it? Should really go with the 2500K and CM212+. Editing two values in BIOS gives you 30% increased linear performance.
With fans, if you end up needing more, get more.
I think Corsair and G.Skill source from the same OEM for the value brands.
RAM is probably the post prone to needing RMA's, and it's probably because they're an anagram of each other. At least that's my theory. It's a crapshoot no matter who you go with.