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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Ocho

Member
Can someone tell if 82C in some games with my GTX 670FTW is normal? I put prefer maximum performance in the power management mode, and I'm getting really high temps, and much higher gpu usage. I'm not sure which is better.

I hit 85 yesterday, but I live in a hot country.
 

Sarcasm

Member
Well DAMNIT..PC is dead. I was installing drivers from the mobo CD when it just turned off. I took out the cmos battery.. unplugged tried new plugs but it does not start at all..no posting no beep..


anything else I can try? I literally got this PC today (guy lowered price and installed it himself and showed me the bios screen before packing it up).

**Dead PSU? Can it die in the middle of installign drivers? I went to click to install...I think it was a USB one.
 

Stubo

Member
Is there anything astonishingly wrong with this build?

I'd be looking at this 670 instead of the one listed, but the site wouldn't allow me to put that one in my configuration for some reason.

I have Windows 7 Pro already and will use that key since I won't need it any more, so that's not a problem. Any advice and tweaks are welcome :)
 

MrBig

Member
Looking to get another fan or two so that I can keep the side panel on, this look like a good plan?

ibj9UMjcjEo1v5.jpg

atm it is dead silent when idling; recommendations on fans for keeping it that way?
 
Speaking of fans, how can I stop my CPU fan from idling at over 2000 RPM? I'd like it to spin up if it needs to, like the GPU fans do automatically.
 
Does anyone have any experience with the AsRock Z77 Extreme4? The Mobo is the last thing I need to complete my new rig, but reviews aren't too helpful with motherboards. Or if you have any suggestions on other boards in the same price range, that is much appreciated.
 

Wazzim

Banned
Is there anything astonishingly wrong with this build?

I'd be looking at this 670 instead of the one listed, but the site wouldn't allow me to put that one in my configuration for some reason.

I have Windows 7 Pro already and will use that key since I won't need it any more, so that's not a problem. Any advice and tweaks are welcome :)
Don't think so, looks good.
 

kharma45

Member
Is there anything astonishingly wrong with this build?

I'd be looking at this 670 instead of the one listed, but the site wouldn't allow me to put that one in my configuration for some reason.

I have Windows 7 Pro already and will use that key since I won't need it any more, so that's not a problem. Any advice and tweaks are welcome :)

I'd maybe change to a cheaper monitor, and an IPS one at that

http://www.pcpro.co.uk/reviews/monitors/375766/viewsonic-vx2336s-led

http://www.ebuyer.com/337439-viewsonic-vx2336s-led-23-lcd-full-hd-monitor-vx2336s-led

Good review on it there from PC Pro, wrong image on the eBuyer website though.

There is this LG one too

http://www.ebuyer.com/284103-lg-ips235v-ips-lcd-led-23-hdmi-monitor-ips235v-bn-aek
 
I'm building a new computer for myself. My wife's computer is getting old and she wants to take mine and for me to get a new one. I'm probably going to build this time. Just looking for a little feedback/reality check.

My current system:
cpu: i7 860
mem 16 gig
Hard drive 500 gig WD 7200 rm / 64mb cache
Video card: EVGA 560 2 gb

My goals for the new system: As fast as my current system or better, smaller, quieter, still play current high end games at 1080p and uses less power. I'm not getting any sort of optical drive.

The issues I'm having are the micro ATX MB only supports 6gigs of memory (I want 32, just because) and it is currently $150 over budget. (not solid limit)

What I'm thinking about buying:

Fractal Design Define Mini Black Micro ATX Silent PC Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352011

Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136891

SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 7850 2GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986

CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 430W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026

CORSAIR 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233270

GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128540

Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115234

OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227726
 

cametall

Member
I think my new PC's PSU is about to go.

Starting about 20 minutes ago whenever I boot up a game it starts buzzing.

It only occurs under load. It is an audible "eeeeeeeeee" noise with some clicking (not as audible). The more intense the graphics the louder it is. It is definitely coming from the PSU.

Google searches suggest it is coil whine, which I guess isn't a defect. But this is very sudden. It didn't make any noise until now. Are there any "coil whine" proof PSU brands or models out there? I'm looking at an OCZ 650w modular right now. I hear Corsair's quality has taken a drop.

How is this PSU? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341017
 

metalshade

Member
Quoting myself for new page.
Gordon Bennett!
I need to stop shopping around for video cards!
I have confused myself now, and I need someone who knows more than I do (shouldnt be hard lol.)

I have already decided I want a 6870 in my build, but I am confused as to which one I should buy.
These are the two that are competing.
Asus card.
http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/part/asus-video-card-eah6870dc2di2s1gd5
MSI card.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/1gb-...am-processors-hdmi-2x-mini-displayport-2x-dvi

Sorry guys but I just am not sure.

Just noticed that the Asus doesnt have an HDMI port, and I will be wiring it up to my TV which has HDMI or VGA plugs, can I still use the Asus?
Is there a way to convert into HDMI or VGA from display port or DVI-I? I dont really want to plug into seperate speakers either like VGA would require though.
 

szaromir

Banned
My laptop started to overheat after 10-15 minutes of playing 3D games. I already disassembled it and wiped the dust off the heatsink and the fan (there wasn't much of it anyway), but it didn't help. Do you guys think changing thermal compound would help?
 

MooMoo

Member
So with a SSD and HDD, does the power options setting for 'turning off the hard disk after x minutes' only affect the HDD? If so, what should this setting be set to?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Looking to get another fan or two so that I can keep the side panel on, this look like a good plan?

atm it is dead silent when idling; recommendations on fans for keeping it that way?
I'd add one top exhaust, then on more intake. Side or bottom is fine.
Speaking of fans, how can I stop my CPU fan from idling at over 2000 RPM? I'd like it to spin up if it needs to, like the GPU fans do automatically.
Should be an option in your BIOS under fan/temp control.
Does anyone have any experience with the AsRock Z77 Extreme4? The Mobo is the last thing I need to complete my new rig, but reviews aren't too helpful with motherboards. Or if you have any suggestions on other boards in the same price range, that is much appreciated.
See the OP for mobo list. It's a good enough board.
I'm building a new computer for myself. My wife's computer is getting old and she wants to take mine and for me to get a new one. I'm probably going to build this time. Just looking for a little feedback/reality check.

My current system:
cpu: i7 860
mem 16 gig
Hard drive 500 gig WD 7200 rm / 64mb cache
Video card: EVGA 560 2 gb

My goals for the new system: As fast as my current system or better, smaller, quieter, and uses less power. I'm not getting any sort of optical drive.

The issues I'm having are the micro ATX MB only supports 6gigs of memory (I want 32, just because) and it is currently $150 over budget. (not solid limit)

What I'm thinking about buying:

Fractal Design Define Mini Black Micro ATX Silent PC Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352011

Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136891

SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 7850 2GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986

CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 430W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026

CORSAIR 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233270

GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128540

Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115234

OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227726
That mobo, PSU, and SSD have to go for starters. Look at OP builds.
This PSU on sale: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093
I think my new PC's PSU is about to go.

Starting about 20 minutes ago whenever I boot up a game it starts buzzing.

It only occurs under load. It is an audible "eeeeeeeeee" noise with some clicking (not as audible). The more intense the graphics the louder it is. It is definitely coming from the PSU.

Google searches suggest it is coil whine, which I guess isn't a defect. But this is very sudden. It didn't make any noise until now. Are there any "coil whine" proof PSU brands or models out there? I'm looking at an OCZ 650w modular right now. I hear Corsair's quality has taken a drop.
It hasn't taken a drop, they've just been selling low end CX power supplies (and GS) using the Corsair name. The Antec EA and VP and BP are better.
The CX430w was a good unit, but the current 400/500/600CX's are not.

Coilwhine is something that just happens, on some models more than others. NeoECO's seem to have it more than usual.

Get this if you can: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093
Quoting myself for new page.
MSI. Cheaper, same card. You can use the 2xdisplay ports to convert to HDMI if you need it
My laptop started to overheat after 10-15 minutes of playing 3D games. I already disassembled it and wiped the dust off the heatsink and the fan (there wasn't much of it anyway), but it didn't help. Do you guys think changing thermal compound would help?
Absolutely. What are you temps?
So with a SSD and HDD, does the power options setting for 'turning off the hard disk after x minutes' only affect the HDD? If so, what should this setting be set to?
Should be HDD only if you are on an updated recent OS (I think). I leave mine on because I dislike the startup delay and my pagefile is on my HDD. So I can't help you.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Okay you win, a friend who lives nearby says he can help me build, but I'll probably have to wait until later in the fall. What are Black Friday prices like on PC parts? Particularly in places like Microcenter?
 

szaromir

Banned
Absolutely. What are you temps?

60-70C at idle and around 100 when the laptop shuts down. I never checked what they were like before the problems started appearing. I know it's extremely high but I guess it's supposed to run at 90C under load anyway.

Just a note - I had not used the laptop at all for over a month, after that it immediately began to overheat when playing games. It's a fairly old laptop anyway (2 years old), but I wonder if not using it might have affected it somehow.
 

cametall

Member
It hasn't taken a drop, they've just been selling low end CX power supplies (and GS) using the Corsair name. The Antec EA and VP and BP are better.
The CX430w was a good unit, but the current 400/500/600CX's are not.

Coilwhine is something that just happens, on some models more than others. NeoECO's seem to have it more than usual.

Get this if you can: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093

EDIT: NM a 450 is required by my video card.

My current PSU is a Kingwin.
 

MooMoo

Member
Should be HDD only if you are on an updated recent OS (I think). I leave mine on because I dislike the startup delay and my pagefile is on my HDD. So I can't help you.
I leave mine on too. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong on that front. Thanks!
 

yamo

Member
Thinking about pulling the trigger and order a new PC. Allthough, before ordering, I got a few questions to the experts here at GAF.

- Do I need any extra CPU cooler even though i'm not planning on overclocking? Is the stock cooler good both regarding performance and noise level?
- Is the GTX 670 worth the extra 120 euro it will cost me compared to a radeon HD 7870?
- Anyone have experience with HP:s 27" screen compared to Dells 27"? I selected the HP screen to keep the price down a bit.

Anyway, enough with the questions. Here is the list:

Case: Antec P280 (Svart/Silver)
MB: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K 3,4Ghz Socket 1155 Box
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Low Profile DDR3 PC12800/1600MHz CL9 2x4GB
Graphics: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 OC Dual-DVI HDMI DisplayPort 2GB
PSU: Corsair 650W
SSD: Samsung 830 Series MZ-7PC128 128GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Green WD20EARX 64MB 2TB
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 Sve (64-bit OEM)
Screen: HP ZR2740W
 

Ceebs

Member
- Anyone have experience with HP:s 27" screen compared to Dells 27"? I selected the HP screen to keep the price down a bit.

Are you looking at the 27" 1080P monitors or the 1440p/1600p monitors?

If the later I would suggest one of the Korean IPS panels. 380 bucks or so gets you a 1440p that looks stunning.

The catch on those is you will want the beefier video cards. My 670 combined with an OC'd 3570 is pulling 60fps in the usual console ports, but a maxed out DX11 Crysis 2 or Witcher 2 drops me down to high 30's or 40's for my framerate when playing at 1440p.

The other downside is you will never be able to look at current console games the same way ever again.
 

yamo

Member
I'm looking at the 1440p version. What Korean panels are you speaking about? Not sure i'm able to buy them here in Sweden. :(
 

Ceebs

Member
I'm looking at the 1440p version. What Korean panels are you speaking about? Not sure i'm able to buy them here in Sweden. :(

I bought this exact one from the same seller and had better service and shipping than I got from Newegg. He ships worldwide for free, but you may want to check on any import taxes you may have to pay on things from South Korea. Not sure how that works in Sweden.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033

A few other people in this thread bought from the same guy and had similar glowing impressions as well.
 

Ty4on

Member
- Do I need any extra CPU cooler even though i'm not planning on overclocking? Is the stock cooler good both regarding performance and noise level?

The stock cooler is totally ok, you can even overclock a little bit with it. If you're not planning on overclocking you could go for a non-K model, but overclocking the sandy/ivy bridge CPUs is really easy.

While I had no issues getting my 3770K up to 4.6GHz on the stock cooler, Sandy Bridge will likely be the better overclocker for most.
AnandTech's review of the 3770K. The 3570K is the same CPU, but without hyperthreading which means 10-20% worse performance at very threaded tasks like rendering and some games.
 

yamo

Member
I bought this exact one from the same seller and had better service and shipping than I got from Newegg. He ships worldwide for free, but you may want to check on any import taxes you may have to pay on things from South Korea. Not sure how that works in Sweden.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033

A few other people in this thread bought from the same guy and had similar glowing impressions as well.

Yeah, it's a pretty big chance I will have to pay import tax on that. Not sure i'll end up saving very much in the long run. Also it feels a bit safer to order from a Swedish company in case any problems arise.

The stock cooler is totally ok, you can even overclock a little bit with it. If you're not planning on overclocking you could go for a non-K model, but overclocking the sandy/ivy bridge CPUs is really easy.


AnandTech's review of the 3770K. The 3570K is the same CPU, but without hyperthreading which means 10-20% worse performance at very threaded tasks like rendering and some games.

Lets say i'm not gonna overclock anything to begin with at least. I still want the option for the future. :)
 

Clydefrog

Member
Hi guys,

Well, I think my video card is fried. I spilled a little bit of beer on it and it still runs but Windows won't enable it. The reasoning in device manager is because "of a problem" lol. It's an EVGA GTX 570. It's still under warranty but I don't think they'll accept an RMA because a) I spilled beer on it, and b) I don't have the original box. Right now I have my old GTX 260 installed.

So I guess I'm in the market for a new video card. I have an i5-2500k and 8 GB of ram. I want to stick with Nvidia for my next card. Should I go for the 670/680? Should I just buy another 570? Any help would be appreciated! thank you
 

Ceebs

Member
Hi guys,

Well, I think my video card is fried. I spilled a little bit of beer on it and it still runs but Windows won't enable it. The reasoning in device manager is because "of a problem" lol. It's an EVGA GTX 570. It's still under warranty but I don't think they'll accept an RMA because a) I spilled beer on it, and b) I don't have the original box. Right now I have my old GTX 260 installed.

So I guess I'm in the market for a new video card. I have an i5-2500k and 8 GB of ram. I want to stick with Nvidia for my next card. Should I go for the 670/680? Should I just buy another 570? Any help would be appreciated! thank you

670 if you can afford it. I would still try to RMA the 570. Worth a shot at least.
 
Hi guys,

Well, I think my video card is fried. I spilled a little bit of beer on it and it still runs but Windows won't enable it. The reasoning in device manager is because "of a problem" lol. It's an EVGA GTX 570. It's still under warranty but I don't think they'll accept an RMA because a) I spilled beer on it, and b) I don't have the original box. Right now I have my old GTX 260 installed.

So I guess I'm in the market for a new video card. I have an i5-2500k and 8 GB of ram. I want to stick with Nvidia for my next card. Should I go for the 670/680? Should I just buy another 570? Any help would be appreciated! thank you


Just wondering, how does one spill beer on a video card? lol
 

Clydefrog

Member
Just wondering, how does one spill beer on a video card? lol

Haha it was quite a perfect storm actually.

I have a case that has a large grate opening on the top
iFdTP.jpg


I opened a beer on my desk and the force from opening it sent some droplets flying. A couple drops fell right through the grate and onto my video card. Instantly my screen went black :(
 

CatPee

Member
Hi guys,

Well, I think my video card is fried. I spilled a little bit of beer on it and it still runs but Windows won't enable it. The reasoning in device manager is because "of a problem" lol. It's an EVGA GTX 570. It's still under warranty but I don't think they'll accept an RMA because a) I spilled beer on it, and b) I don't have the original box. Right now I have my old GTX 260 installed.

So I guess I'm in the market for a new video card. I have an i5-2500k and 8 GB of ram. I want to stick with Nvidia for my next card. Should I go for the 670/680? Should I just buy another 570? Any help would be appreciated! thank you

Ask g35twinturbo if he has any cheap 670s. ;)
 
Haha it was quite a perfect storm actually.

I have a case that has a large grate opening on the top

I opened a beer on my desk and the force from opening it sent some droplets flying. A couple drops fell right through the grate and onto my video card. Instantly my screen went black :(

Haha. Damn, that sucks. My new build's case has a top opening as well, gotta mark that one down.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Okay you win, a friend who lives nearby says he can help me build, but I'll probably have to wait until later in the fall. What are Black Friday prices like on PC parts? Particularly in places like Microcenter?
Black Friday generally sucks. You can get random stuff like SSDs, maybe a PSU, headset, etc. Good way to go if you want to pinch every penny:

1) Buy mobo and proc from Microcenter whenever. It's like Black Friday everyday with the bundle.
2) Sign up for NCIX and Newegg emails. You'll get emails a few times a week with good deals. Sometimes the stuff on there sucks, sometimes it's awesome.
3) Go to NCIX's US website, they *always* have a sale active and there's almost always good stuff in there. Their sale prices have actually pushed me to start buying more of my personal stuff from there than the egg.

You'll have to buy parts as they come up for sale. Only thing I'd hold off on is graphics card unless there's something that comes up that you just can't pass up. With some slated releases, there might be some more price drops in 2-3 months.
Thinking about pulling the trigger and order a new PC. Allthough, before ordering, I got a few questions to the experts here at GAF.

- Do I need any extra CPU cooler even though i'm not planning on overclocking? Is the stock cooler good both regarding performance and noise level?
- Is the GTX 670 worth the extra 120 euro it will cost me compared to a radeon HD 7870?
The aftermarket ones are both more efficient at transfering heat as well as quieter. Judging by the Antec P280 in your cart, that's important to you. Also, Fractal Define R3 > Antec P280, and cheaper.

The latter question is really something that you'll have to answer for yourself. It's totally subjective.
 

VaLiancY

Member
I just pulled the trigger on a build I've been holding off for like - 3 years. Very happy I'm getting my first DIY computer. Question is, am I good using the stock fans in the case or should I have bought an aftermarket fan for the CPU?

Edit - Didn't notice someone else with a similar concern.
 

Negaiido

Member
Does anyone else have problems with Corsair? It seems that a second time Corsair memory (vengeance) are broken or atleast cause me BSOD's.
Are G.skill more trustworthy with memory?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Any way to stop it? Should really go with the 2500K and CM212+. Editing two values in BIOS gives you 30% increased linear performance.

With fans, if you end up needing more, get more.

Does anyone else have problems with Corsair? It seems that a second time Corsair memory (vengeance) are broken or atleast cause me BSOD's.
Are G.skill more trustworthy with memory?
I think Corsair and G.Skill source from the same OEM for the value brands.

RAM is probably the post prone to needing RMA's, and it's probably because they're an anagram of each other. At least that's my theory. It's a crapshoot no matter who you go with.
 

Negaiido

Member
I think Corsair and G.Skill source from the same OEM for the value brands.

RAM is probably the post prone to needing RMA's, and it's probably because they're an anagram of each other. At least that's my theory. It's a crapshoot no matter who you go with.

They should really do some better QC then :( I guess I will go for the same memory and hope for the best...
 

VaLiancY

Member
Any way to stop it? Should really go with the 2500K and CM212+. Editing two values in BIOS gives you 30% increased linear performance.

With fans, if you end up needing more, get more.


I think Corsair and G.Skill source from the same OEM for the value brands.

RAM is probably the post prone to needing RMA's, and it's probably because they're an anagram of each other. At least that's my theory. It's a crapshoot no matter who you go with.

Nah, I'm still waiting on NCIX charge my account. The 30% does sound nice though.
 
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