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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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What case is that? Your build looks really similar to mine, same cpu cooler, bitfenix shenobi case though your gfx card looks different. Either way, looks like a job well done, congrats.
It's a Diablotek EVO mid tower ATX. Came with 4 case fans and got it 19 bucks at Microcenter.

GFX card is a Giga GTX 660ti.

Thanks though I left it on to DL my Steam library but forgot that it has sleep mode on default settings :/ Round two of epic DL.
 

NoRéN

Member
After getting the remainder of my Pc parts from amazon and newegg I have come to a conclusion: Newegg kicks amazon's ass in the packaging department.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I haven't built a PC in quite some time.

A family member works for Intel so I'll be getting the 3970x w/ Mobo & 480GB SSD for more than 1/2 off.

I have a GTX 670 and plan on getting a second for SLI
I'll be picking up a 3TB Hard Drive for D:
Probably getting 16-32GB of RAM

I need suggestions on a power supply, Extremely simple no frills case, burner, and other extras (CPU cooler, case fans, thermal paste(is this still even used?)). Keep in mind noise as this PC is in the main bedroom.
Very awesome!

Grab the Samsung 30nm RAM, it's especially awesome with SB-E since you can OC the memory very well through BCLK.

Get a really nice cooler, because these things are beasts in the heat department. Prolimatech Megahalems, Noctua NH-D14, Corsair H80/100, NZXT Havik 140, Thermalright Macho, etc.

Check out the Lian Li PC-7HX for a case. If you want less expensive, grab the Fractal Arc Midi on Newegg right now for $60. There is no better deal out there. If you want something quieter, also take a gander at the Fractal Define R4.

If you have a choice of the motherboard, do get the Intel BOXDX79SR. (assuming it has to be an intel board)
NoRéN;44839439 said:
After getting the remainder of my Pc parts from amazon and newegg I have come to a conclusion: Newegg kicks amazon's ass in the packaging department.
Soooooo true.
Link?

From what I am reading BGA is the only way forward. Intel can do what they hell they like from there.
I don't think you understood the BGA news. From the other thread for folks here:
I skimmed the last few pages and I didn't really see any of the good stuff posted, so let me break this down for you guys as one of the most die hard PC enthusiasts on this forum.

1) Intel is moving the consumer grade Broadwell to BGA. What this means is that the chip is soldered directly to the socket.

2) The enthusaist grade will still be LGA. This is the equivalent of socket 2011. That means enthusiasts still get to be enthusiasts. 1155's sister socket is 2011. 1155 = Consumer, 2011 = Enthusiast. 1155 = Sandy/Ivy, 2011 = Sandy-E/Ivy-E. The E is for enthusiast. Enthusiast.
felt like it wasn't said enough in this paragraph

Why this shouldn't matter to folks who like to build their own PC's is that the concept of upgrading one's CPU while retaining the same socket has been dead since Nehalem (socket 1366). LGA 775 was the last socket in which you could make truly meaningful upgrades to the CPU while retaining the motherboard.

Right now, we are faced with a total mess in the 1155/SB/IVB world. Let me break this down for you by chipset.

H61 - Basic 1155 socket that allows no control of multiplier or voltage of the CPU. PCI-E 2.0, ad-hoc USB 3.0

P67 - Basic 1155 with no onboard graphics.

Z68 - Combination of H61 and P67 in that it has both onboard graphics and overclock support. Still ad-hoc USB 3.0, PCI-E 2.0

H7x - Native USB 3.0 and PCI-E 3.0 support, no overclocking support.

Z77 - Same as H7x, but overclocking support.

Now, lets say you go to buy an IVB processor, an i5 3570 for example. If you put this in a P67/Z68/H61 board, you likely won't even get PCI-E 3.0. If you buy a Z7x, you've likely wasted money.

How about a 2500K? Buy that and stick in a Z77 board yeah? No PCI-E 3.0 because it's controlled by the processor. You'll be able to overclock though. Not if you put it in a Hxx board though, watch out for that.

Switching to BGA fixes this ridiculousness, and has no downsides other than needing to RMA a whole motherboard if the proc/mobo goes funny. That doesn't really matter either, because it's not like you have a working PC when you are RMA'ing one of those parts. It also makes the whole process easier.

You get to go to newegg, pick out the processor/motherboard combo you want, and call it good. This is awesome for helping people navigate the maze that is PC building. We have to have an entire thread with probably the most informative OP loaded with hours upon hours upon hours of content in order to make sense of it all. How is that a solid long term plan for selling hardware?

"But I want to upgrade to different low bugdet processors if I want to!" If someone has upgraded from a 2500K to a 3570K/3770K for any other reason than a real itch to upgrade, and they are someone who has thrown away their money. You buy a processor, motherboard, and RAM, and then you upgrade it all when it comes time to do so. This is how it has been for years.

Ultimately, there's too much industry riding on the fact that enthusaists get to do what they do. Intel gets tons of sales from it, they're not going to kill it off. Stop being drama queens.
 
The OP mentions very little regarding RAM (quote below). Outside of picking up one of the 3 recommended brands, 1333Mhz/1600Mhz, and 1.5V, is anything else important? Of course it has be the right type for mobo, but I'm talking about the Latency, Timing, etc.... that I see listed on the RAM.

G.Skill, Corsair, and Kingston recommended. 1333Mhz/1600Mhz is fine. Get 1.5V.
Benefits negligible for faster RAM except higher benchmark scores.
Get RAM with a low heatsink for clearance.

BTW, part of the reason I ask these questions rather than post a specific product always is because part of why I'm building my own Rig is for the knowledge and learning experience. Having said that, if you have links that answer my questions, please share :)
 

cametall

Member

The Sapphire.

Disregard XFX cooling is crap; MSI is OK too I believe.

On Overclock.net the Gigabyte WF 7950 is the most popular. They appear to OC decently and are cooled very well.

I myself have a Sapphire 7950. They OC fairly well but don't cool as well as the Gigabytes.
 

Firebrand

Member
Has the Samsung 830 been discontinued? The place I'm ordering from only carry the 64 and 512 GB ones now.

Anyone got any experience with the OCZ Vertex 4? Seems like it has great performance, but stability is obviously more important.

Neither is a good buy, unless you're cool with 1080P and no AA with a fairly quick demise in terms of performance capability over the next 2 years.

The new AMD drivers made this situation even worse. The 7950, which is the same price as the 660Ti, is outperforming the 670 right now.

So, 7850->7950->670 (still an option thanks to low power and NVIDIA features)->7970 is the only buying order that makes sense right now.

This x1000.
Thanks for your recommendations. To be honest I haven't been considering AMD at all since NVIDIA cards have been working great for me (aside from a TF2 issue), but I'm going to take a look at some benchmarks and reviews of the AMD stuff and compare prices.
 

scogoth

Member
Has the Samsung 830 been discontinued? The place I'm ordering from only carry the 64 and 512 GB ones now.

Anyone got any experience with the OCZ Vertex 4? Seems like it has great performance, but stability is obviously more important.

Thanks for your recommendations. To be honest I haven't been considering AMD at all since NVIDIA cards have been working great for me (aside from a TF2 issue), but I'm going to take a look at some benchmarks and reviews of the AMD stuff and compare prices.

People hate OCZ cause of the old CEO and his company practices. They just released the Vector which challenges the 840 Pro and had a much longer validation process than older OCZ drives so I'd pick that
if going OCZ
 

Petrie

Banned
If it's innappropriate to ask here I apologize: I'm currently putting together a cheapo PC for a somewhat broke friend as an Xmas gift so he can play cheap indies/F2P stuff, mostly from spare/cheap after rebate parts, but the prices I see for processors from that gen thus far are a bit absurd for what you're getting. Does anyone have an LGA775 intel processor of any kind hanging around they'd let go for a fair price? Shoot me a PM, it would be finding a very good home.

Thanks!
 

Akkad

Banned
If it's innappropriate to ask here I apologize: I'm currently putting together a cheapo PC for a somewhat broke friend as an Xmas gift so he can play cheap indies/F2P stuff, mostly from spare/cheap after rebate parts, but the prices I see for processors from that gen thus far are a bit absurd for what you're getting. Does anyone have an LGA775 intel processor of any kind hanging around they'd let go for a fair price? Shoot me a PM, it would be finding a very good home.

Thanks!

What parts do you have already?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
If it's innappropriate to ask here I apologize: I'm currently putting together a cheapo PC for a somewhat broke friend as an Xmas gift so he can play cheap indies/F2P stuff, mostly from spare/cheap after rebate parts, but the prices I see for processors from that gen thus far are a bit absurd for what you're getting. Does anyone have an LGA775 intel processor of any kind hanging around they'd let go for a fair price? Shoot me a PM, it would be finding a very good home.

Thanks!
Use eBay / Anandtech / GAF Buy/Sell

E8400's should be like $40.
 

Petrie

Banned
What parts do you have already?

Currently have the mobo, video card, case, and a spare HD, so just RAM to grab along with a PSU and CPU.

EBay worries me a bit, but if GAF says its safe, I'll go that route. Just know I trust GAF a bit more.
 

sixghost

Member
Currently have the mobo, video card, case, and a spare HD, so just RAM to grab along with a PSU and CPU.

EBay worries me a bit, but if GAF says its safe, I'll go that route. Just know I trust GAF a bit more.

I think eBay is pretty safe for buyers. It's usually the sellers that complain about buyers ripping them off with stuff like chargebacks.
 
Why, oh, why, Amazon did you decide in your infinite wisdom to choose Royal Mail as your courier of choice for my expensive CPU and GPU parts; no tracking number, no next day delivery, no delivery on the estimated date, and every chance that the postie will probably leave it on the doorstep if he doesn't get an answer, after feebly knocking on the door....once. So, here's to another day twiddling my thumbs waiting for a delivery. I can't understand why they didn't choose City Link, whom they used for all my other parts, which all arrived the next day before 10.00am.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Why, oh, why, Amazon did you decide in your infinite wisdom to choose Royal Mail as your courier of choice for my expensive CPU and GPU parts; no tracking number, no next day delivery, no delivery on the estimated date, and every chance that the postie will probably leave it on the doorstep if he doesn't get an answer, after feebly knocking on the door....once. So, here's to another day twiddling my thumbs waiting for a delivery. I can't understand why they didn't choose City Link, whom they used for all my other parts, which all arrived the next day before 10.00am.
Do not question the Amazon machine. It was determined.

If they screw up you give them feedback and they 1-day you a new CPU.
 

brogan

Neo Member
Okay so I've just received my pre built system from Overclockers UK and I can't get it working...help!

Connected the PC up to my TV with the HDMI I've been using with my PS3 (I know the HDMI is working okay), the PC didn't come with a power cable (madness!) so ive had to use one from an old computer. So I connected it up and then booted it, everything seemed okay, got a screen that said 'preparing windows for first time use', or something along those lines. Then, the system seemed to freeze and then it just turned off (?). Now I can't get anything to show up on the screen, just says there's no signal when I set the TV source to the HDMI slot I have the PC connected to. I have three HDMI slots on the TV, I've tried all three and the HDMI has to go into the graphics card right? Plus, it worked okay at first and now it isn't so I'm slightly concerned.

Can anyone offer any advice? I'm obviously going to contact overclockers tomorrow but they're closed at the moment.
 
Do not question the Amazon machine. It was determined.

If they screw up you give them feedback and they 1-day you a new CPU.

I'm being tormented by my Steam list of games, all virtually unplayable (apart from GTAIV, which runs at an amazing 10fps at 800x60) on my current machine.
 
Okay so I've just received my pre built system from Overclockers UK and I can't get it working...help!

Connected the PC up to my TV with the HDMI I've been using with my PS3 (I know the HDMI is working okay), the PC didn't come with a power cable (madness!) so ive had to use one from an old computer. So I connected it up and then booted it, everything seemed okay, got a screen that said 'preparing windows for first time use', or something along those lines. Then, the system seemed to freeze and then it just turned off (?). Now I can't get anything to show up on the screen, just says there's no signal when I set the TV source to the HDMI slot I have the PC connected to. I have three HDMI slots on the TV, I've tried all three and the HDMI has to go into the graphics card right? Plus, it worked okay at first and now it isn't so I'm slightly concerned.

Can anyone offer any advice? I'm obviously going to contact overclockers tomorrow but they're closed at the moment.

If it was me, I'd open up the case and just make sure everything is firmly in place; something could have dislodged ever so slightly in transit, and even though it booted up first time, maybe the heat stress dislodged it ever so slighty. Just press the graphics card firmly in place and try booting it up. I had a PC, where my graphics card was very sensitive to movement and would kick up a fuss any time I moved my tower.
 

brogan

Neo Member
If it was me, I'd open up the case and just make sure everything is firmly in place; something could have dislodged ever so slightly in transit, and even though it booted up first time, maybe the heat stress dislodged it ever so slighty. Just press the graphics card firmly in place and try booting it up. I had a PC, where my graphics card was very sensitive to movement and would kick up a fuss any time I moved my tower.

Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it. I've opened it up and had a look and checked all the connections but it hasn't helped I'm afraid. Although, the CPU cooler is that big I can barely get to anything.

It's frustrating.
 

Jackben

bitch I'm taking calls.
This is probably not the source of your problem and I debated fighting the urge to post it but pre-built really isn't ever worth it. If the machine is actually still booting up but not showing your display it may just be a setting that occurs during start up for many PCs, try connecting it via VGA cable to a monitor to see if it will display that way and then manually change the settings.
 
Does the motherboard make any error beeps at all? I suppose the next step is to try taking out the graphics card and putting it back in again. Again, it's something that's worked for me in the past.

EDIT: Have you got a monitor lying around, you can try hooking it up to that.
 
I'm sending back my Korean monitor as its stuttering. Anyone have experience with returning items with FedEx? Do I send it back to the origin adress?
 

mattiewheels

And then the LORD David Bowie saith to his Son, Jonny Depp: 'Go, and spread my image amongst the cosmos. For every living thing is in anguish and only the LIGHT shall give them reprieve.'
My Steam hard drive (1TB) is death-clicking. I need a replacement. Any particular 1TB or larger replacements to use, if possible from Best Buy (I have a gift card, and I can't afford to purchase a hard drive any other way at this stage, due to a recent financial crisis at home putting us in a really bad situation)?

For now, I've unplugged it. When I do transfer stuff, should I do it all in one go?
I don't know if this is the same thing as a death click, but my HD makes this single loud TICK sound every few hours or so. The hell is that?
 

brogan

Neo Member
Does the motherboard make any error beeps at all? I suppose the next step is to try taking out the graphics card and putting it back in again. Again, it's something that's worked for me in the past.

EDIT: Have you got a monitor lying around, you can try hooking it up to that.

No there's no beeps at all. Everything seems to be working okay.

I've just tried an old monitor, that also didn't work. Connected it up with the VGA cable etc but nothing. Next step may have to be removing the graphics card ut I don't even know where to start. I'll have to youtube it for a guide. I'll wait until tomorrow now when I can phone the people I bought it from.

Thanks for the help.
 

brogan

Neo Member
This is probably not the source of your problem and I debated fighting the urge to post it but pre-built really isn't ever worth it. If the machine is actually still booting up but not showing your display it may just be a setting that occurs during start up for many PCs, try connecting it via VGA cable to a monitor to see if it will display that way and then manually change the settings.

Suppose we live an learn. There's no way I could have built my own, I know people say it's like LEGO but I think that's being a little optimistic.

I've tried a monitor via VGA and that hasn't worked so it's not looking good.

Ah the joys of PC gaming. I realise most people aren't idiots and don't have these problems.
 

dekjo

Member
I'm taking apart an old rig and unscrewing the motherboard from my case is proving to be nigh impossible. Any tips on making it easier?
 

Jackben

bitch I'm taking calls.
Suppose we live an learn. There's no way I could have built my own, I know people say it's like LEGO but I think that's being a little optimistic.

I've tried a monitor via VGA and that hasn't worked so it's not looking good.

Ah the joys of PC gaming. I realise most people aren't idiots and don't have these problems.
Nah you're not an idiot, these are the same kinds of troubles others deal with when setting up our own rigs. The part that makes that a bit easier is that we have put it together ourselves so we can take it apart step by step to diagnose the problem more easily. Sounds like you might have to wait for the company to get back to you. Hopefully they sort it out quickly.
 

Lkr

Member
If it's innappropriate to ask here I apologize: I'm currently putting together a cheapo PC for a somewhat broke friend as an Xmas gift so he can play cheap indies/F2P stuff, mostly from spare/cheap after rebate parts, but the prices I see for processors from that gen thus far are a bit absurd for what you're getting. Does anyone have an LGA775 intel processor of any kind hanging around they'd let go for a fair price? Shoot me a PM, it would be finding a very good home.

Thanks!
I have a pentium d 820 I wouldn't mind giving away but I doubt you're looking for anything that shitty. I'd probably be of more assistance if you wanted am3 parts

Is it safe to use an electric screwdriver with a mobo? Idk why it wouldn't be, but better safe than sorry
 

FinKL

Member
So pretty much

27" IPS (Awesome viewing angles+Colors+1440p Res) $700
vs
27" TN (Not IPS panel + 1080p Res) $321
vs
24" TN (Not IPS panel + 1080p Res) $199

What are you looking for exactly in a gaming monitor? The bottom 2 are exactly the same screen resolution (the 27" might look more pixaly) If you're looking for a decent gaming monitor the bottom would suit your needs
 

brogan

Neo Member
Nah you're not an idiot, these are the same kinds of troubles others deal with when setting up our own rigs. The part that makes that a bit easier is that we have put it together ourselves so we can take it apart step by step to diagnose the problem more easily. Sounds like you might have to wait for the company to get back to you. Hopefully they sort it out quickly.

I see what you mean now, I would have probably been better off building it myself. I went the pre built way to avoid any problems, how ironic! I appreciate the help though,, it's reassuring to know there's always somewhere to go with problems. Thanks, hopefully it all gets sorted soon!
 
I see what you mean now, I would have probably been better off building it myself. I went the pre built way to avoid any problems, how ironic! I appreciate the help though,, it's reassuring to know there's always somewhere to go with problems. Thanks, hopefully it all gets sorted soon!

I know you are holding off but could you post a pic of the inside in this thread?

maybe someone here could pinpoint the issue.
 

Tame

Member
does overclock give it to you or is it in the box.

that card would not fit in my case if i buy two of those.

sorry it took so long to reply.

its in the box. Its a code that you have to enter in on AMD's promo site that in turn sends you an email with the codes for the games
 

kakashi08

Member
So pretty much

27" IPS (Awesome viewing angles+Colors+1440p Res) $700
vs
27" TN (Not IPS panel + 1080p Res) $321
vs
24" TN (Not IPS panel + 1080p Res) $199

What are you looking for exactly in a gaming monitor? The bottom 2 are exactly the same screen resolution (the 27" might look more pixaly) If you're looking for a decent gaming monitor the bottom would suit your needs

Well I think I'll go with a 24"/1080p. But that one is not LED. Does that make a difference?

also what is the DIFFERENCE between these 3 monitors. Or is there any other you could recommend?? 24"/1080p for GAMING??

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236102
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236153
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236123

I know the last one is 25inch.
 

brogan

Neo Member
I know you are holding off but could you post a pic of the inside in this thread?

maybe someone here could pinpoint the issue.

It's late where I am now so will have to wait until I'm home from work tomorrow.

I've just had a thought, I connected up a monitor with a vga to the motherboard, is that the right thing to do? Cause I have an adapter in graphics card box (gtx 670) for a VGA to DVI and could have connected that to the port on the graphics card. Should I have done that instead?

I'm such an amateur its scarey!
 

dekjo

Member
Righty tighty left loosey?

What are you specifically having trouble with?

Already got one screw out, so pretty sure I've been going the right way. Hands are exhausted, so will take a break for a bit. Probably just need a better screwdriver. I might pick one up tonight - I'm just using some really tiny things I got from Radio Shack years ago.
 

mkenyon

Banned
How in the world am I dipping below 60fps on ultra in battlefield 3? I'm running sli 670's and a 2500k oc'ed to 4.5 ghz?
High AA?
Well I think I'll go with a 24"/1080p. But that one is not LED. Does that make a difference?

also what is the DIFFERENCE between these 3 monitors. Or is there any other you could recommend?? 24"/1080p for GAMING??

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236102
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236153
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236123

I know the last one is 25inch.
What kind of video card do you have?

I really really suggest a 120hz display if you are looking at those. S23A700D is $329 on Tiger Direct.
 

kakashi08

Member
High AA?

What kind of video card do you have?

I really really suggest a 120hz display if you are looking at those. S23A700D is $329 on Tiger Direct.

Will be getting the 7970.

And that monitor is sold out. Any other 120hz display you recommend for gaming?
 
It's late where I am now so will have to wait until I'm home from work tomorrow.

I've just had a thought, I connected up a monitor with a vga to the motherboard, is that the right thing to do? Cause I have an adapter in graphics card box (gtx 670) for a VGA to DVI and could have connected that to the port on the graphics card. Should I have done that instead?

I'm such an amateur its scarey!

the VGA on the motherboard might work but usually its the graphics card that takes over in a situation like that.

you could also try the DVI to VGA adapter on the card as well to see if anything appears on your monitor (maybe the hdmi connector got fucked?).


all i can say is try it out and see
 
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