It's a steal at that price, as is the 7950 at £190. Some top cards coming crashing down now.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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It's a steal at that price, as is the 7950 at £190. Some top cards coming crashing down now.
I'm anti-pack rat. In fact, I have a rule in my house. If it hasn't been used in the last 12 months, it gets donated or thrown away.
Somehow my 360 has still eluded this rule though.
I cancelled my pre-order
You just have to get the NIC(Network Interface Controller) driver, then you can get the rest from the net.
Eteric Rice
Member
- COOLER MASTER HAF series RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
- GIGABYTE GA-H77-DS3H LGA 1155 Intel H77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
- Intel Core i5-3350P Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.3GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 69W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80637i53350P
- PNY VCGGTX660XPB GeForce GTX 660 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
- Rosewill HIVE Series HIVE-550 550W Continuous @40°C, 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified, Modular Design, Single +12V Rail, ATX12V v2.31/EPS12V v2.92, SLI Ready, CrossFire Ready, Active-PFC Power Supply
- Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM
- Microsoft Windows 8 64-bit (Full Version) - OEM
- SAMSUNG DVD Burner SATA Model SH-224DB/RSBS
- G.SKILL Value 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-8GNT
Any suggestions GAF? Trying to keep it at $800 or so and under.
- GIGABYTE GA-H77-DS3H LGA 1155 Intel H77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
- Intel Core i5-3350P Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.3GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 69W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80637i53350P
- PNY VCGGTX660XPB GeForce GTX 660 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
- Rosewill HIVE Series HIVE-550 550W Continuous @40°C, 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified, Modular Design, Single +12V Rail, ATX12V v2.31/EPS12V v2.92, SLI Ready, CrossFire Ready, Active-PFC Power Supply
- Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM
- Microsoft Windows 8 64-bit (Full Version) - OEM
- SAMSUNG DVD Burner SATA Model SH-224DB/RSBS
- G.SKILL Value 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-8GNT
Any suggestions GAF? Trying to keep it at $800 or so and under.
Not too related to hardware, but why is it that increasing resolution beyond what a monitor / TV normally supports (downsampling) makes everything blurry? At least when I tried it by hooking up my laptop to a TV (can't change GPU scaling on a laptop display, apparently) it wouldn't work out well. Am I doing something wrong?
If you hook it up as a 2nd monitor instead of doing mirroring, you should be able to set the resolution to whatever you want (ie 1900x1080)
Good rule to have. Mine seems like 3 days, if I don't use it every day then I don't need it. That 360 is being kept around for GTA 5
Love this thread.
I am finally starting to make a little bit of money at work and set some aside so I think it will soon be time to drop this amateur AMD stuff and get on board with Ivy bridge. I think I can get a massive upgrade using some of my current components and adding a few big ticket items.
Current setup:
AMD 955 BE
Asus AM3+ MoBo
GTX 560 (non TI)
Kingston 8gig DDR3 1600 ram
Spinpoint 1tb drive (the classic Samsung)
Corsair CX600
LIAN LI PC-7B plus II
Planned Upgrades:
3570K
ASUS P8Z77-V LK
Sapphire 7950 Boost
That puts me currently at just under $600. I am not planning to buy for a bit. I plan to have the new system ready before BF4 comes out, so mid October. I dont think things will change much on the hardware front in that time, hopefully prices might fall a tad. I also think I could up the budget a bit and grab a 120 gig SSD. Seems like it would very much be worth it.
I am finally starting to make a little bit of money at work and set some aside so I think it will soon be time to drop this amateur AMD stuff and get on board with Ivy bridge. I think I can get a massive upgrade using some of my current components and adding a few big ticket items.
Current setup:
AMD 955 BE
Asus AM3+ MoBo
GTX 560 (non TI)
Kingston 8gig DDR3 1600 ram
Spinpoint 1tb drive (the classic Samsung)
Corsair CX600
LIAN LI PC-7B plus II
Planned Upgrades:
3570K
ASUS P8Z77-V LK
Sapphire 7950 Boost
That puts me currently at just under $600. I am not planning to buy for a bit. I plan to have the new system ready before BF4 comes out, so mid October. I dont think things will change much on the hardware front in that time, hopefully prices might fall a tad. I also think I could up the budget a bit and grab a 120 gig SSD. Seems like it would very much be worth it.
Pumpkin King
Member
I lurked in this thread for the longest time, I pretty much built my pc based on builds in Jan-2012 guide. Good people, great advice. Today I finally bought an upgrade to my budget-minded 6870 I bought then. Can't wait!
I bought the Sapphire 7970. That should keep me good for awhile, considering all I play is GW2
Then in March of this year, the guide was pretty much my checklist to build my wife's pc.
Keep up the work you all do here.
I bought the Sapphire 7970. That should keep me good for awhile, considering all I play is GW2
Then in March of this year, the guide was pretty much my checklist to build my wife's pc.
Keep up the work you all do here.
okay I posted this before but no one responded so I'm trying again...
I don't know shit about computers but I've been reading this thread/other stuff and tried my best to understand stuff, and came up with this
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $901.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-29 22:20 EDT-0400)
I already have a case, monitor, and kb/m
I may toss out the SSD to cut down cost a lot but...I've heard they make a world of difference so I'm kind of hesitant to do so. I also used to have a 550W power source but a friend recommended I up it some so I switched to 620W.
Is there any way I can cut down the cost on that while keeping about the same performance? Any other tips or suggestions?
Thanks guys!
I don't know shit about computers but I've been reading this thread/other stuff and tried my best to understand stuff, and came up with this
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $901.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-29 22:20 EDT-0400)
I already have a case, monitor, and kb/m
I may toss out the SSD to cut down cost a lot but...I've heard they make a world of difference so I'm kind of hesitant to do so. I also used to have a 550W power source but a friend recommended I up it some so I switched to 620W.
Is there any way I can cut down the cost on that while keeping about the same performance? Any other tips or suggestions?
Thanks guys!
Everything seems good. I think if you wanted to lower the cost, cutting out the SSD is your only option. Otherwise, that is a lot of PC power for less than $1000.
lostsupper
Banned
Do you really need the optical drive? And I'd lose the hard drive before the ssd.
It can be set, but everything just goes blurry beyond native resolution. I'm wondering if it's simply because this is a laptop and not a proper PC, or that my weak Radeon 6570 isn't beefy enough.
Edit: I used Custom resolution utility and my display shows 1080p as a resolution I could set it to, but it blacks screens at both 30 or 60 Hz refresh rate.
MorisUkunRasik
Member
GPU - HD7950 (Already purchased)
CPU - I7 4770k (Already purchased)
Looking to buy the following in a couple weeks:
CPU Cooler - Corsair Hydro H50
Case - Corsair 350D microATX
Ram - 16gb DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) (2X8)
Motherboard - Asus Maximus
Powersupply - CX750
Optical Drive - Asus DRW-24B
SSD - Samsung 250GB
recommendations/suggestions?
CPU - I7 4770k (Already purchased)
Looking to buy the following in a couple weeks:
CPU Cooler - Corsair Hydro H50
Case - Corsair 350D microATX
Ram - 16gb DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) (2X8)
Motherboard - Asus Maximus
Powersupply - CX750
Optical Drive - Asus DRW-24B
SSD - Samsung 250GB
recommendations/suggestions?
runnin_blue
Banned
Hi people,
I am finally getting a new gaming PC after like 9 years! I'm about to join the master race again lol.
My mate has put these specs together which he believes suit my budget and want to play most current & soon released games maxed out.
Could I please have some opinions if you don't mind, are we on the right track?
CPU Intel i5-4670
MOB Asus Z87-Plus
RAM 8G Kit 2133 G.Skill Ripjaws-X
SSD SanDisk SSD Ultra Plus SATA3 256G
HDD WD Black FAEX SATA3 1TB
CAS Fractal Design Define R4 Black
DVD SATA Blu-Ray Writer - Pioneer
PSU Antec HCG-Modular 620M
VID Asus 2G GTX 680
Thanks heaps!
I am finally getting a new gaming PC after like 9 years! I'm about to join the master race again lol.
My mate has put these specs together which he believes suit my budget and want to play most current & soon released games maxed out.
Could I please have some opinions if you don't mind, are we on the right track?
CPU Intel i5-4670
MOB Asus Z87-Plus
RAM 8G Kit 2133 G.Skill Ripjaws-X
SSD SanDisk SSD Ultra Plus SATA3 256G
HDD WD Black FAEX SATA3 1TB
CAS Fractal Design Define R4 Black
DVD SATA Blu-Ray Writer - Pioneer
PSU Antec HCG-Modular 620M
VID Asus 2G GTX 680
Thanks heaps!
Ya know, I havent found the SSD to be that magical so far. Especially since I dont power down my computer that often, so I miss out on the insane boot up time advantage most of the time.
My opinion might change and I dont regret buying it, its just definitely something I'd suggest skipping on if you're trying to not spend a lot and mainly want to game.
Sorry for lack of published updates, the doc actually is mostly up to date, but work, esports, and PAX have put a slight damper on things recently and I haven't been able to update the OP as much as I would have liked.
Get a GB or MSI mobo, get a K CPU, 2133 RAM is a waste, get a 840 EVO SSD, get a 2TB Black if you want (otherwise get Blue), HCG 620w are alright, but I'm not a giant fan of them, get a 760/770/780 the 680 is old news.
j0hnny_385
Member
Looks like today is IB-E day:
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013...ee_core_i74960x_ipc_ocing_review#.UiBGeTYWdv8
Hopefully Anandtech and others will publish theirs, too.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013...ee_core_i74960x_ipc_ocing_review#.UiBGeTYWdv8
Hopefully Anandtech and others will publish theirs, too.
Prophet Steve
Member
When you are not rebooting a lot and pretty much only game with it you might be right. But it is a constant pain when I am using something without a SSD.
Crimsonclaw111
Member
All my stuff sans the CPU and GPU will be under my roof by tomorrow, I'm pretty excited to see my computer almost completed. Is there any way that I can check components for defects like a DOA mobo without a CPU? I would rather know my stuff is OK for the moment given Newegg's 30 day only policy.
The_Hitcher89
Member
Can anyonre recommend me the best SSD for under £105?
Also, does Windows 8 have a Diagnostics option to detect and test every component and connection, to mak sure I build it properly?
Also, does Windows 8 have a Diagnostics option to detect and test every component and connection, to mak sure I build it properly?
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB would be under that budget, 250GB 840 (non EVO) is just under £130 so budget broken.
If your PC is running then it is probably working. Just make sure you download and install all the latest drivers that are needed.
Prophet Steve
Member
I do not really think so, except if you have a different one to test with. You basically need the power support, motherboard and CPU to start testing.
Crimsonclaw111
Member
Guess I'll have to mess with RMA if things go bad. Typically speaking the odds of a DOA mobo is not too high right?
So basically don't bother, unless you own LGA 2011 system already or your a extreme high end whore.
Haven't read through the whole review, but if it's just on the 4960X then yeah if you are just gaming probably shouldn't even consider it unless you have way too much to throw at it. The entry level Ivy-E however is 4C8T and is supposed to be price below the Haswell i7. It will almost certainly overclock better than any Haswell since it will be soldered, so great performance out of it. Will wait for some reports on benchmarks, overclock-ability and heat.
Drop the DVD drive. Hard to know where to help save money without prices on your components. Are you using PCPartpicker?
8320 would be best out of that bunch. AMD might have new processors come Q4 of this year on AM3+, although it's a fairly slim chance at this stage as it's all gone quiet on the FX line.
If you want to cut costs 650w Rosewill Hive PSU is $65 after rebate http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Change your RAM to this, $55 after discount code http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
This 7950 is $220 after rebate http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Get a Hyper 212 instead of that H50.
Swap the CX PSU for a Rosewill Hive 650w modular or an Antec BP550.
Ditch the optical drive
$114 for this 16GB RAM, swap to it http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Do you even need 16GB? If you just gaming you don't.
Where are you buying from? Prices on that stuff? Make sure it's a 4670K, that RAM seems awfully needless, no need for a DVD drive either.
Excellent.
Yeah there is a 4820K coming too which will likely be a better choice than the 4770K.
The MSI GTX780 lighting looks really nice when inside a case. Black and yellow. Someone here needs to do an all black and yellow build with it. Kingston do some good yellow RAM and SSD + mpower motherboard. The fan bit looks a little ugly with the small fan in the middle.
Does this light up thing under different levels of load.
Does this light up thing under different levels of load.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
PSU has arrived! So, considering that my PC case has openings underneath where the PSU goes, should I put it in upside down or not?
Fan points down.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
Sound.
Also, as per this image from a while back, I'm not seeing any cables on the PSU that those two molex connectors plug into?
What is that coming from, case fans? If so there should just be motherboard headers you can use. Otherwise molex from the PSU should fit into the other molex I think.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
You can see the little part at the bottom that connects to the mobo, if you connect that do you not need to worry about those two molex conenctors? Because all the molex connectors on my PSU are labelled "HDD".
I'm pretty sure that if it fits the connector and you aren't using it for anything else, you should be fine.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
Fair enough.
Oh dear god...I'm rapidly realising the benefits of modular PSUs...
Also, I'm seeing any 8-pin power connector, but I'm seeing 2 4-pins, one labelled "CPU1-P4" and the other "CPU2-P8", which I'm guessing are what go in the 8-pin power connector at the top of the mobo?
I did say modular was the way to go
but yeah, plug them in. Sometimes they're done as 4+4 instead of 8.I did say modular was the way to go
Once you go modular, you can't go back.
Yeah, just connect it to the motherboard. If you run it off Molex there will be no problem even if they are marked HDD. Just that they will run at 100% all the time.
The_Hitcher89
Member
Pro is MLC NAND (more durable), standard is TLC NAND (less durable, cheaper). The standard 840 is the one to go for, the Pro is only needed if you're writing lots of data.
Crucial M500 looks to be the best deal around atm for a 120GB drive but the reviews of it seem to be kinda negative towards the 120GB variant. Anyone got any opinions on it? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BQ4F9ZA/
The_Hitcher89
Member
Cheers. I can stretch to the extra tenner for Samsung if reliability if its something to worry about with the Crucial
Might as well ask here rather than google, how long is the Office trial that comes with Windows 8?
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