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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Great idea, didn't think of that.

If I want to buy different length cables for a modular power supply what do you search for? Male to male 8pin / 6pin?

Also, is there a converter I can buy for my fans so instead of plugging those into the mobo I can hide them behind it?

Pretty sure there was a converter for the fans on the R4, but yes it does exist, it normally use the power cable of HDD/Optical drive

As for the cable, something like that or simply modular PSU cables, shouldn't be to hard to find i think.
 

Totakeke

Member
Okay, finally found the problem with my setup (it was a misaligned front panel connector pin) and now I have everything setup... except my resolution can only go up to 1920x1080 when I have a 27" Dell U2711 which ran 2560x1440 fine on my old GTX460 connected using the same dvi cable. I just installed the latest catalyst drivers so it's not that.

I have this graphics card, the MSI Lightning HD7970.
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R7970-Lightning-BE.html

I've heard talking about dual-dvi link and stuffs like that and I have the 27" to be used with another 23" I have, so I assume this all means I can't use the DVI cable anymore if I want to use my monitor at native res and have to buy new mini displayport cables? This is really confusing me.
 

kharma45

Member
Damn, the reference 290X cooler is so bad. Why saddle all those great cards with such a poor cooler? If the reference coolers were even a little better, the initial reviews and reaction to the cards would have been so much different.
 

Katyusha

Member
FYI

Reviews for the ASUS R9-290X DirectCU II OC is up.

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/asus_radeon_r9_290x_directcuii_oc_review,1.html



Looking real good! The OcUK site already have pre-orders for this and the 290 up.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/search_results.php?keywords=r9+290&_=1387399515580

Anyone know of a US site that offers pre orders?

NCIX has a preorder for the MSI Twin Frozr IV 290 and 290x

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=92891&vpn=R9 290 GAMING 4G&manufacture=MSI
 

mkenyon

Banned
$700?

Wowzers.
Damn, the reference 290X cooler is so bad. Why saddle all those great cards with such a poor cooler? If the reference coolers were even a little better, the initial reviews and reaction to the cards would have been so much different.
Because they have to ensure that it works properly in all systems.

If you had John Doe with a single 80mm intake or exhaust go to put a DCII 290x in his system, he might have increased internal temps to the point of failure.

Add to the fact that they have a number of AIBs that actually make worse coolers than reference design. Would be a PR nightmare.

It's not like they had trouble moving product either :p
 
Good news is that the bitcoin craze kind of hit a stump yesterday.

http://www.theguardian.com/technolo...ina-payment-processors-digital-cryptocurrency

Hopefully, the R9 cards prices will drop back to normal.


EDIT: Litecoin fell as well.
http://www.coindesk.com/litecoin-price-bitcoin-china/

Only a matter of time before the price goes back to normal.

tumblr_m2v4c8yYCs1r2g7mto2_r1_250.gif
 

Copons

Member
get a r9 270x instead of gtx650ti. Way better for gaming.

Get a better supply too. 430 seems too weak. 500 would be perfect.

Hey, thank you for your answer!

As for the GPU, I'd like to stick to Nvidia. Also, the one you suggested costs something like 50€ more than a 650 Ti Boost at my store of reference.

Anyway, I put up another build, this one with Haswell stuff, as I guess it would be more future proof.

Links to Newegg just for language reasons; prices from various Italian stores (Amazon.it and eKey.it)

CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 Haswell 3.1/3.3GHz, 6MB L3 Cache (167.10€)
Motherboard: MSI B85-G41 PC Mate Socket 1150 (64.20€)
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 660 1006/1072MHz, GDDR5 2GB 6008MHz (151.20€)
RAM: 2x4GB 1600MHz Corsair Vengeance Low Profile CML8GX3M2A1600C9B (69.30€)
Storage: 1TB WD Caviar Blue (50.20€)
Power Supply: 500W Corsair CX500M 80+ Bronze (61.30€)
Case: Cooler Master N400 (49.40€)
Total: 612.60€


Just as a reminder: I come from 4 years of PC gaming on a 2009 MacBook Pro with a 256MB 9600M, so I'll probably be astounded by any rig at all.
My purpose for now is to build something that let me play my Steam library at more than 640x480 low details (like, I'd like to actually read street signs in ETS2 :D ).
Probably, the most graphically intensive game I own is Witcher 2.

I was saying: my purpose is clear the backlog and build some good foundations for upgrading later, reason why I'm orienting on Haswell (it also, apparently, doesn't cost much more), and mostly stay on the cheapest.
 

chunk3rvd

Member
Building my first PC in years as a favour to someone and I'm almost finished now (with the help of a few Youtube tutorials). I put the GPU and PSU in tonight and hooked up all the cables. I attached the fan at the back and both side fans built into the case to the wires on the PSU. Just wondering - there is one other fan on top of the case and one at the front with different connectors (pictured below). Any idea how I hook these up?


The motherboard manual says the 3 pins just below the left of the CPU are to connect a fan. Would this go here? Is it even worth hooking up any more fans when I have 3 already?

I'm going to finish it off by installing Windows tomorrow. Anything I should bother to install while I do? Driver wise or anything else I should setup? The build has the following specs:

Asus B85M0G Motherboard
i5 4430 3GHz
Sapphire HD 7870 2GB
G.Skill 8GB DDR3 1600 memory
1TB Hard Drive
Zalman ZM500-GS 500w power supply

Any final tips would be appreciated. It's a Christmas present for a young kid and I hope he's going to be pleased with his new rig after the stress it's caused me!
 
Don't know if you've specifically tried the 314.22 or 331.93 drivers, but they've been known to work for most folks on the 400 and 500 series of cards. Anything in-between those two drivers does not work for Fermi architecture cards and has been a source of frustration.

More info here and here.

I'm on a 560 Ti 448 and have been using the 331.93 drivers since they came out last month. Apart from being stable, GPU temps were much better for me than those with the 314.22 drivers, by 5-10 degrees.

Thanks a lot man, I'll give the new drivers a shot.
 

HoosTrax

Member
Building my first PC in years as a favour to someone and I'm almost finished now (with the help of a few Youtube tutorials). I put the GPU and PSU in tonight and hooked up all the cables. I attached the fan at the back and both side fans built into the case to the wires on the PSU. Just wondering - there is one other fan on top of the case and one at the front with different connectors (pictured below). Any idea how I hook these up?
You plug that one in the exact same way you plugged the CPU cooler's fan in -- on the motherboard. One of the four header pins on the motherboard (the PWM pin) will not be plugged, which is fine.

If you have adapter plugs, you could have plugged the other fans (the ones with the "big" plugs) into the motherboard as well. It's sort of a matter of personal preference whether to power them directly from the PSU or via the motherboard, but the benefit of plugging them into the motherboard is that the software provided by ASUS or whoever made your board will show you some basic info about the fan (how fast its spinning), and can sometimes regulate the speed.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
I'm only just now running an actual 3D game on my new system -- Borderlands 2 (I thought it had DX11 but it doesn't). Man, even games with basically current-gen console graphics look noticeably better in 1080p/60. I'm still shocked because I've never played a game on a TV with a controller with graphics this high fidelity, with image quality this good. GPU temperature barely went over 50C, which is what my 6850 in my Dell usually sits at when idle.

Still trying to find a DX11 game I can quickly install so I can check and see if there isn't a problem with all DX11 games running on HDTVs. Saint's Row The Third uses DX11 right?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hey, thank you for your answer!

As for the GPU, I'd like to stick to Nvidia. Also, the one you suggested costs something like 50€ more than a 650 Ti Boost at my store of reference.

Anyway, I put up another build, this one with Haswell stuff, as I guess it would be more future proof.

Links to Newegg just for language reasons; prices from various Italian stores (Amazon.it and eKey.it)

CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 Haswell 3.1/3.3GHz, 6MB L3 Cache (167.10€)
Motherboard: MSI B85-G41 PC Mate Socket 1150 (64.20€)
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 660 1006/1072MHz, GDDR5 2GB 6008MHz (151.20€)
RAM: 2x4GB 1600MHz Corsair Vengeance Low Profile CML8GX3M2A1600C9B (69.30€)
Storage: 1TB WD Caviar Blue (50.20€)
Power Supply: 500W Corsair CX500M 80+ Bronze (61.30€)
Case: Cooler Master N400 (49.40€)
Total: 612.60€


Just as a reminder: I come from 4 years of PC gaming on a 2009 MacBook Pro with a 256MB 9600M, so I'll probably be astounded by any rig at all.
My purpose for now is to build something that let me play my Steam library at more than 640x480 low details (like, I'd like to actually read street signs in ETS2 :D ).
Probably, the most graphically intensive game I own is Witcher 2.

I was saying: my purpose is clear the backlog and build some good foundations for upgrading later, reason why I'm orienting on Haswell (it also, apparently, doesn't cost much more), and mostly stay on the cheapest.
A Z87 chipset motherboard will be a bit more gutsy on future upgrade options, as you'd be able to put in a 'K' series processor and overclock it. That extends the performance life of a system quite a bit.

For example, a core i5 5xx, i7 7xx, or i7 9xx from 5+ years ago would still be perfectly fine once overclocked. At their stock speeds, they're a bit wanting.

Whether that is worth it to you or not is really your call though.

Otherwise, looks good for what you are trying to accomplish.
 

Copons

Member
A Z87 chipset motherboard will be a bit more gutsy on future upgrade options, as you'd be able to put in a 'K' series processor and overclock it. That extends the performance life of a system quite a bit.

For example, a core i5 5xx, i7 7xx, or i7 9xx from 5+ years ago would still be perfectly fine once overclocked. At their stock speeds, they're a bit wanting.

Whether that is worth it to you or not is really your call though.

Otherwise, looks good for what you are trying to accomplish.


I actually barely know what overclocking means, so... let's say it isn't one of my priorities. :D

Anyway, I was oriented to a Z87, but its pricier (almost 2x the B85 I chose, IIRC). But I must say I chose it almost randomly, and I'm not really fond of it, mostly because it supports up to 1600MHz RAM, and I wouldn't feel comfortable knowing I've already maxed out something before even buying it.
 

0xCA2

Member
well, if you wanna stay cheap, its fine. It all depends ons your budget and definition of light gaming.

I'd spend $750 tops. My definition of light gaming is indies, old PC games, light emulation, etc.

The big worry for me is the processor ( AMD Athlon II X4 750K) for some reason. I feel that that processor is too weak to last the next couple of years, and I will regret not spending the extra money now.

For emulation go Haswell (Intel Core ix 4xxx).

thanks for the advice. I'll keep the other parts and swap the mobo + cpu + psu
 

kharma45

Member
290 review with the cooler from the 280X Toxic

9v4QoaXl.jpg


http://www.kitguru.net/components/g...ire-r9-290-tri-x-oc-review-1600p-ultra-hd-4k/

The Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC ships with one of the best coolers that money can buy – The Tri-X has already proven itself with several other cards, including the fantastic R9 280X Toxic Edition, which we reviewed back in October.

The adoption of massive 10mm heatpipes has really worked wonders for cooling performance. When gaming, the reference R9 290 holds at 95c, and this overclocked Sapphire Tri-X version at only 68c. Yes, that is an improvement of a staggering 27c under load. The Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC doesn’t thermally throttle either which can help under certain situations.

The Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC excels at both 1600p and Ultra HD 4K resolutions with the latest Direct X 11 games. Our testing has highlighted that it is battling head to head with the MSI GTX780 Lightning, one of the best video cards we have tested to date.

While overclocking potential will vary between cards, our particular sample for review was stable at 1,110mhz, or an additional 11% on the core. This enhanced performance of the Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC to within 500 points of the £600 Palit Jetstream GTX780 Ti at reference clocks. A phenomenal result.

At today’s pricing, a reference cooled Sapphire R9 290 can be bought for £335.99 inc vat. We would expect this overclocked Tri-X version to ship with a modest premium, between £360-£380 inc vat. At this price and with the out of the box overclock and superior thermal curve, it really seems like a no-brainer to us. This is the R9 290 we have all been waiting for.

I'd spend $750 tops. My definition of light gaming is indies, old PC games, light emulation, etc.

The big worry for me is the processor for some reason. I feel that that processor is too weak to last the next couple of years, and I will regret not spending the extra money now.

For emulation go Haswell (Intel Core ix 4xxx). How far could you push your budget?
 

kharma45

Member
$750-$800 USD

No SSD but that could be bought further down the line. Get your OS from Reddit for $20-40 http://www.reddit.com/r/softwareswap

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($221.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.97 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87W ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($98.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($170.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Other: Team Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model TPD38G1333C9DC01 ($49.99)
Total: $714.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-18 19:30 EST-0500)

You could forgo the cooler for now to save costs and a cheaper PSU like this reasonable EVGA one (but you'll lose modularity) http://us.ncix.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=85625&vpn=100-B1-0500-KR&manufacture=eVGA

Edit - $5 more gets you a GTX 760, FORGET ABOUT THE 7850!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...hBargains-_-NA-_-NA-_-NA&Item=N82E16814133498

$175.99 PNY GeForce GTX 760 2GB + Free Shipping ($40 rebate + MASTERPASS code)

Obviously this depends on you being comfortable with rebates.


nvm, doesn't work as the free games are bundled with it. 660 is also $175 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125443

Edit 2 - Save $10 with this mobo http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8045918&sku=G452-1158
 

0xCA2

Member
No SSD but that could be bought further down the line. Get your OS from Reddit for $20-40 http://www.reddit.com/r/softwareswap

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($221.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.97 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87W ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($98.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($170.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Other: Team Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model TPD38G1333C9DC01 ($49.99)
Total: $714.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-18 19:30 EST-0500)

You could forgo the cooler for now to save costs and a cheaper PSU like this reasonable EVGA one (but you'll lose modularity) http://us.ncix.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=85625&vpn=100-B1-0500-KR&manufacture=eVGA

Edit - $5 more gets you a GTX 760, FORGET ABOUT THE 7850!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...hBargains-_-NA-_-NA-_-NA&Item=N82E16814133498

$175.99 PNY GeForce GTX 760 2GB + Free Shipping ($40 rebate + MASTERPASS code)

Obviously this depends on you being comfortable with rebates.


nvm, doesn't work as the free games are bundled with it. 660 is also $175 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125443

Edit 2 - Save $10 with this mobo http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8045918&sku=G452-1158

Thanks for all this. I probably should have said this, but I'm looking to get this early next year (financial aid refund), so I likely won't have the money in time to take advantage of many of these deals. But everything looks really solid and I will use this as a basis for when I do have this money.

EDIT: I think I'll buy some of the cheaper parts right now.

Also, how does getting OSes on Reddit pan out? Everything done via paypal?
 

kharma45

Member
Thanks for all this. I probably should have said this, but I'm looking to get this early next year (financial aid refund), so I likely won't have the money in time to take advantage of many of these deals. But everything looks really solid and I will use this as a basis for when I do have this money.

EDIT: I think I'll buy some of the cheaper parts now.?

Deals come and go. Things on the GPU front will be better by then I hope, choice is abysmal at present in the lower midrange. There isn't really a deal there that is worth grabbing now tbh, nothing is exceptional value.

As for Reddit yeah should be PayPal.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
One thing I'm noticing with my new system is that running the OS in general is a shitload faster, particularly in the area of shutting it down and booting it up. It basically cold boots as fast as a game console and certainly faster than a tablet. But I'm wondering what factors are causing this the most:

1) I'm upgrading to an i5 from a Q6600.

2) I'm upgrading to Windows 7 64-bit from Vista 32-bit

3) The OS is installed on an SSD.

4) I don't have a whole lot on the system yet.
 

maneil99

Member
How much of a difference will 13mhz make on a 780 gtx. Reason i ask is my 780 was rock solid until i played tomb raider which crashes my display driver. I had no issues with bf4, crysis 3 metro ll and farcry 3 and firemark extremebut crysis 1 and guild wars 2 had troubles. I ruled them to be anomolies but now im thinking otherwise.
 

maneil99

Member
One thing I'm noticing with my new system is that running the OS in general is a shitload faster, particularly in the area of shutting it down and booting it up. It basically cold boots as fast as a game console and certainly faster than a tablet. But I'm wondering what factors are causing this the most:

1) I'm upgrading to an i5 from a Q6600.

2) I'm upgrading to Windows 7 64-bit from Vista 32-bit

3) The OS is installed on an SSD.

4) I don't have a whole lot on the system yet.
SSD. Those things are awesome. I should get one. You should try Windows 8. 5 second boot times maybe.
 

0xCA2

Member
Deals come and go. Things on the GPU front will be better by then I hope, choice is abysmal at present in the lower midrange. There isn't really a deal there that is worth grabbing now tbh, nothing is exceptional value.

As for Reddit yeah should be PayPal.

Alright, I guess I'll just wait.

Never knew about using Reddit for that.
 

kharma45

Member
One thing I'm noticing with my new system is that running the OS in general is a shitload faster, particularly in the area of shutting it down and booting it up. It basically cold boots as fast as a game console and certainly faster than a tablet. But I'm wondering what factors are causing this the most:

1) I'm upgrading to an i5 from a Q6600.

2) I'm upgrading to Windows 7 64-bit from Vista 32-bit

3) The OS is installed on an SSD.

4) I don't have a whole lot on the system yet.

Unquestionably the SSD.
 

mkenyon

Banned
How much of a difference will 13mhz make on a 780 gtx. Reason i ask is my 780 was rock solid until i played tomb raider which crashes my display driver. I had no issues with bf4, crysis 3 metro ll and farcry 3 and firemark extremebut crysis 1 and guild wars 2 had troubles. I ruled them to be anomolies but now im thinking otherwise.
Up the volts instead?
 

HoosTrax

Member
Heh, mkenyon, you weren't kidding about the AX860 being a tight fit in the Prodigy. Lot of fussing around with the modular connectors required, and in the end, it just barely fits.

Only the case arrived today -- CPU and board are due Friday -- so I got a head start stripping out my current rig and test fitting some parts. Love the case overall. Very nice build quality and attention to detail on an inexpensive case.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
So I tested another DX11 game -- Saint's Row The Third, and I didn't get locked to 24hz, which means, as reported, this is a problem specific to the Crysis games. I think I'll just either set a custom resolution for them or just run Crysis 1 and Warhead in DX9. I think those games just artificially lock the max settings behind DX10 anyway. I know in Crysis 1 you can unlock all features in DX9 just by tweaking the ini.

I'd like to add that comfy couch PC gaming feels unlike anything I've experienced before, especially when using a controller. It feels like I'm playing a console game, but I've never seen a console game with this combination of image quality and graphical detail running at this smooth a framerate. I've seen a few 1080p/60 console games, but they're pretty much all graphically simple games or at most a racing game. I've seen 60fps action games on console but they're all 720p. I've seen shooters and such run at 1080p/60, but always on a computer monitor with a mouse and keyboard. I've never seen a highly-detailed open world shooter running at 1080p/60 on my TV with a controller in my hand. It's like "this is what the game is actually supposed to look like." Even 2D pixel-style games like Rogue Legacy look noticeably better -- the colors and pixels really "pop out," on a 1080p TV.

Despite SR's advantages in image quality on PC though, I think it still shows its age in a post-GTA V world. GTA V still has so much polish in its engine and visual presentation that in my opinion it still looks better running on the PS3 in 720p at 25fps. I know PC-GAF likes to talk about image quality, but it can only make up for so much of the gulf between two games' levels of core graphical fidelity. It'll just be all the sweeter when GTA V inevitably comes out on PC.

Edit: Also seems like I have to re-install the Xbox controller drivers every time I boot up. It only takes a few seconds but it's too many mouse clicks for me to have to do it so often.
 
Edit: Also seems like I have to re-install the Xbox controller drivers every time I boot up. It only takes a few seconds but it's too many mouse clicks for me to have to do it so often.
Yeah, I had that problem too. I'm not sure that I figured out how to fix that, but not restarting the PC helps mitigate it.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Oh, and is there a way to put Windows 7 to sleep in a way that only the power button will wake it back up? Right now if I put it to sleep, literally any input will wake it back up which is kind of annoying. Should I just leave it running at night?
 

DTKT

Member
Oh, and is there a way to put Windows 7 to sleep in a way that only the power button will wake it back up? Right now if I put it to sleep, literally any input will wake it back up which is kind of annoying. Should I just leave it running at night?

If there is no real reason to leave it overnight, then don't. The additional wear of the computer parts is probably minimal but it's going to cost you electricity! That and I don't see any reason to let the HD spin for no reasons.
 

scogoth

Member
Okay, finally found the problem with my setup (it was a misaligned front panel connector pin) and now I have everything setup... except my resolution can only go up to 1920x1080 when I have a 27" Dell U2711 which ran 2560x1440 fine on my old GTX460 connected using the same dvi cable. I just installed the latest catalyst drivers so it's not that.

I have this graphics card, the MSI Lightning HD7970.
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R7970-Lightning-BE.html

I've heard talking about dual-dvi link and stuffs like that and I have the 27" to be used with another 23" I have, so I assume this all means I can't use the DVI cable anymore if I want to use my monitor at native res and have to buy new mini displayport cables? This is really confusing me.

http://m.neogaf.com/showpost.php?p=52467351&postcount=10822

You will need a display port cable because that GPU does not have a dual link dvi port which your GTX460 had. Single link DVI does not support 2560x1440.
 
So I finished my first PC build tonight but I'm still trying to work out a few kinks.

I have a SSD and a HDD. I wanted to install Windows onto the SSD so I kept the HDD unplugged until it was finished. Now I've plugged it back in but my computer won't recognize it. In BIOS it'll recognize it under hard drive boot priority but not under actual boot priority. I rechecked all my connections and everything's fine. Any help?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
If there is no real reason to leave it overnight, then don't. The additional wear of the computer parts is probably minimal but it's going to cost you electricity! That and I don't see any reason to let the HD spin for no reasons.
Eh, I leave mine on all the time. There might be something to the ON/OFF vs sustained on causing more wear.
Idle is super low, HDDs on normal power settings will stop spinning after 2-20 minutes of no access (If you have separate OS / DATA).

I use extremely little power so it's not a bother to me.
So I finished my first PC build tonight but I'm still trying to work out a few kinks.

I have a SSD and a HDD. I wanted to install Windows onto the SSD so I kept the HDD unplugged until it was finished. Now I've plugged it back in but my computer won't recognize it. In BIOS it'll recognize it under hard drive boot priority but not under actual boot priority. I rechecked all my connections and everything's fine. Any help?
If you have SSD first in your HDD priority, then it should just boot from it if you sorted: CD -> HDD -> USB boot order.

If you manually select a boot device (like F12) does it only show the HDD and not the SSD? Is the SSD on SATA_0? Did you change AHCI/IDE settings for your drives? If you unplug your HDD does it boot fine?
 
If you have SSD first in your HDD priority, then it should just boot from it if you sorted: CD -> HDD -> USB boot order.

If you manually select a boot device (like F12) does it only show the HDD and not the SSD? Is the SSD on SATA_0? Did you change AHCI/IDE settings for your drives? If you unplug your HDD does it boot fine?
I've been booting from my SSD fine, but my HDD isn't even an option on the boot priority list. I haven't changed any settings on my drives, either. Does it matter which SATA they're plugged into?
 

scogoth

Member
I've been booting from my SSD fine, but my HDD isn't even an option on the boot priority list. I haven't changed any settings on my drives, either. Does it matter which SATA they're plugged into?

Why do you need to boot from your HDD? I'm assuming it is just for data so as long as it is formatted then it should show up in Windows.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I've been booting from my SSD fine, but my HDD isn't even an option on the boot priority list. I haven't changed any settings on my drives, either. Does it matter which SATA they're plugged into?
Did you format your HDD yet? Otherwise there's nothing to indicate what to do with the drive.

Boot into Windoze first
 

Anton668

Member
well I got the Hive installed. decided to strip the whole PC down, clean it up a bit, remount the 212 evo just cuz its so easy and not in the least bit complicated ;) . the wires arent so bad now that is in (as they are mostly hidden anyways).

ran OCCT for awhile, never went past 64 deg. idles in the low 20's(not that it matters much).

so as soon as I get done throwing together the hand me down build it'll be time to start oc'ing!

though im still debating on replacing the top 200mm fan with 2 AF120 quiets...

i do have that newegg coupon......
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
If there is no real reason to leave it overnight, then don't. The additional wear of the computer parts is probably minimal but it's going to cost you electricity! That and I don't see any reason to let the HD spin for no reasons.

No internal HDD. Only SSD.
 
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