Put together my first PC this weekend and was wondering how I can transfer files between the solid state drive and the hard drive. I installed Windows on my solid state drive so now all my downloads are going to the SSD by default. Is it easy to move the desired ones over to the hard drive?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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Prophet Steve
Member
Normal files? Cut -> Paste.
You can't just do the same with programs though. You'd have to reinstall those.
I just bought all the parts for my first PC build and this thread has helped me immensely so thanks to the OP for an amazing thread and thanks for all the people that take time out of their day to answer questions... its much appreciated.
Initially i purchased a gtx 770 with a 600 watt power supply (CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply) but thanks to jfoul, i cancelled that order and now used the link he posted to buy the galaxy version of the 780... my question is; will this power supply still be good enough to handle this card and an i5 3570k?
Initially i purchased a gtx 770 with a 600 watt power supply (CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply) but thanks to jfoul, i cancelled that order and now used the link he posted to buy the galaxy version of the 780... my question is; will this power supply still be good enough to handle this card and an i5 3570k?
Future PhaZe
Member
about to move my 680 sli for a 780 ti as I want to move to a single GPU rig moving forward.
my main thought is should I go Titan or go for the 780 ti? This will be used only for 1080p play as I won't do a resolution upgrade until 4k cards are out that can rock new games at 60fps consistently
.
Even still though, the only real difference is 3gb vram vs 6 gb of vram...but that's a significant difference. I just wonder how many issues you guys might expect me to face in the next two years or so with 3gb of vram at 1080p.
my main thought is should I go Titan or go for the 780 ti? This will be used only for 1080p play as I won't do a resolution upgrade until 4k cards are out that can rock new games at 60fps consistently
so a decade from now? lul
Even still though, the only real difference is 3gb vram vs 6 gb of vram...but that's a significant difference. I just wonder how many issues you guys might expect me to face in the next two years or so with 3gb of vram at 1080p.
OFFIS
Member
Yes.
thanks!
can you describe the static? is it like old analog tv static? phone near your headphone's static? something else?
So for instance with a game I'd just have to delete it and reinstall later on the hard drive? Is there any way when I first download something that I can specify what drive (ssd or hdd) that I put it on?
CyanideFuse
Member
Same position here; I keep checking sites to see if it has been given a release date (UK)!
Alright guys I think I'm going in on the "excellent" Haz build.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87X 3D ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ TigerDirect)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($42.92 @ Amazon)
Case: Silverstone PS07B-W MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($83.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $921.84
Anything that jumps out at you guys that I should change? Gonna pull the trigger on this by the end of the week.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87X 3D ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ TigerDirect)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($42.92 @ Amazon)
Case: Silverstone PS07B-W MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($83.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $921.84
Anything that jumps out at you guys that I should change? Gonna pull the trigger on this by the end of the week.
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
No SSD? Or you are not planning to buy one?
I like the 7970/280X over the 670 in general due to the much higher memory bandwidth, but the 670 is still great.
A single core from the 4670K is around the same performance of the entire xbone/ps4 CPU. Once games become n-threaded, I don't see any issues with CPU bottlenecks on anything from Sandy i3's to pretty much anything current. There will still be the increased frame times when IPC is important, such as MP games with translating game states. But, as long as the processor in question has decent clocks with high per-thread performance, then that will continue to be smooth (I'm saying AMD procs will still stutter, and that won't get better with n-threading).
Why do you need the FTW edition?
Stock OC
Just scared id fuck something up if i have to OC myself... Even more scared i wont get better proformance than my 5750 lol
SSD?
You can do that yourself.
Just realized there isnt but 13mhz between the SC and the FTW. but FTW comes with better cooling
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
Definitely coming from GPU, the PC is on my desk and can hear it clearly. GPU and PSU bought at same time so only a few months old.
I did think this, as I have had it in the past, typically on Crysis main menu. This time its weird, as i never used to have it until i removed the card and put it back in :/
going to put together my new PC this weekend (parts are ordered) and I'd like to get the last few things in order. First, should i go with windows 7 or 8? i've read about some people having performance issues with 8. second, I have a ps4 and was planning on using the controller since ive never played with a kb/m... i understand kb/m is superior for fps games so i was wondering if it would be a major disadvantage to play a game like titanfall online with a controller? i may just suck it up and learn kb/m if you all feel ill be at too much of a disadvantage.
The TDP on the 750Ti is so ridiculously low that such a thing shouldn't be a concern.
I guess I should. I was going to wait a bit, I heard they go on sale frequently.
Are you overclocking your CPU? You'll probably want an aftermarket cooler.
Horsemama1956
Member
The worst that can happen is maybe a few glitches and a driver crash. The only issue with overclocking is weak and improperly cooled voltage regulators that will burn up if pushed too hard. Not a concern for something that draws like 60-100 watts.
If you're thinking about a 120GB (which would be enough for your OS and some of your most frequently used games/programs, easily) then you might want to check this out:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=
You can use the code EMCYTZT5778 for $5. So your total would be $80. Not a bad deal for a good drive like that one. And since you're building this weekend, you can have it ready for when you build. That way you don't have to reinstall windows like you would have to if you decided to wait and grab an SSD later.
I don't think so, at least not at first. Down the line a few years later I may. Unless you think it will be too much trouble to add it later?
Also, that case is smaller than I'm used to, do you think it will be a problem?
Ah good point. Yeah I think I'll pick one up then. I've never installed windows to an SSD, is it easy? I plan on USB installing. I guess it lets you pick what drive you want to install to, right?
Doing a CPU cooler upgrade isn't very hard. Especially if you've done a build before and have a decent idea of how the heat gets dissipated, how the thermal paste works, etc. It's definitely possible. However, as easy as it is to just put it off, you might want to think a little more about just doing it now. It'll be easy to talk yourself out of OC'ing in the future and you'd end up not utilizing all of the CPU that you paid for. Since you're not building until next week, I'd recommend getting a nice cooler and sticking it on there. No need to OC right away, but you'd probably be more likely to do it down the line if you know you've got it properly cooled in there. Idk. That's just me though.
Yep, it lets you pick the drive. When you're building, I'd recommend connecting your SSD to SATA port 0. There's pretty much no way you're going to accidentally install it on the wrong drive as long as you're paying attention during the install.
I'm not sure the ATX mobo will fit in a microATX case. The length of your GPU might also be an issue as well.
That's what I was wondering about as well. It was in one of the OP builds but it seemed strange.
The spec sheet says that it will only take microATX and miniITX.
I would grab this motherboard instead.
Alright it's on the list. Anything I should know about it? Or is it just smaller? And will the gpu fit?
No problem, bud. This is the CPU cooler that I ordered for my new build:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...ffiliateID=lw9MynSeamY-HxcyamyKDq9HTzd9kcZgQA
If you don't mind filling out the $20 rebate form, it's definitely a good deal for $10. Otherwise, most regulars here would recommend the Hyper 212 Evo which would run you around $30 or so, which would probably give you temps that are a few degrees cooler, but I've heard it's a little tough to fit sometimes depending on your case and other components.
EDIT: How set are you on that case? Unless you specifically want a smaller case, the 200R can be had for $30 after a $20 rebate here:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4907301&CatId=1509
Just something to think about. I'm not sure if installing an aftermarket CPU cooler in the case you listed would cause problems.. someone else here can probably speak to that more reliably than I can. But I know it'll fit in the 200R (that's what I'll be doing, personally).. here's a pic of the said cooler inside the 200R:
http://i.imgur.com/u2INS1I.jpg
Some of the motherboards in the OP are mATX. A really rough guess, but I'd venture 90% of the people on GAF don't need ATX motherboards/cases. The mATX cases are listed separately, though I can see where there'd be confusion.
You'll want to either switch the case or your motherboard.
Yeah I think I'll go with the smaller mobo.
Cool. It'll be nice to have my PC be a little smaller. The one I had before was a beast. I was worried about the GPU, but thanks!
Cool, I was just trying to figure out which cooler to go with. That will do nicely.
Hmm. That case doesn't look too bad actually. I'll definitely look into it. I just can't wait until this thing is built and ready to go.
I don't have mkenyon's graphs to hand but you really don't know what you're talking about.
I might sound rude but we've been through this too many times of late in here.
Anyone wanna pick parts to help me build a budget gaming PC? Meaning $450-$600? I hear PC gamers all the time say they can build PC's for the cost of a PS4 or Xbox One that run games better than either system. So I figure I'm in the market for a new computer why not just build a PC. I've built my own PC's in the past when I was in college, years and years ago so I know how and aren't intimidated in that aspect. I just have no idea where to start now in regards parts like graphics cards and processors. So I'd appreciate it if someone can build me a PC on PC Part picker or some comparable site. Thanks in advance...
Try starting at the OP. There are a few builds there, including one for $438.
Thanks. Guess I didn't read the OP thoroughly lol...
If you go that route, be sure to post your planned build in this topic before ordering/building. The OP isn't updated every single day, so chances are that there are some better values on any given day. Definitely read through the OP though to get a basic understanding of how modern parts compare to eachother and use those builds as a starting point. Don't be turned off by all the new terms, etc. Lots of people in this thread to quickly answer any questions that you may have. Maybe start by filling out the template in the OP about budget, intended uses, current specs (or any hardware you can re-use... monitors, hard drives, KB/M, etc).
Not when you compare the 8320 to something like a i5 4430 and B85/H87 motherboard, which would put you right around $240. Even the i3 outperforms the 8320 in a lot of scenarios.
High IPC matters a lot in MP games as well.
Dr_Boris_Goltz
Banned
I might have made a mistake with my build. I bought a Biostar Z87W instead of the Z.
So that wouldn't allow me to overclock, correct?
Edit: I'm an idiot... It just needs to be a Z87 chipset...
So that wouldn't allow me to overclock, correct?
Edit: I'm an idiot... It just needs to be a Z87 chipset...
So guys I'm building a second rig for my studio, I just want something mid range good enough for DayZ, Rust, Titanfall, Source / Valve games.
A local shop has a clearance on AMD stuff: AMD-8350 35% off with an HD 7870
Usually I don't like AMD stuff but seems like a really good deal, Any of you guys with a 8350 what do you think about it?
A local shop has a clearance on AMD stuff: AMD-8350 35% off with an HD 7870
Usually I don't like AMD stuff but seems like a really good deal, Any of you guys with a 8350 what do you think about it?
Create a build on PCPartPicker using the information from the OP, then post it here.
After that we can critique it for you and let you know where you can improve on it.
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