I think most people recommend 2x 4 GB rather than 1x 8 GB.
Did I at least get that one right, guys?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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I think most people recommend 2x 4 GB rather than 1x 8 GB.
Did I at least get that one right, guys?
I have a 660 as well but frankly, today, I'd buy nothing less than a 760. The 660 barely cuts it for a lot of current/upcoming titles (even for 1080p gaming). I find myself dialing back a lot of features games like Tomb Raider, Witcher 2, etc. The 760 will, by default, give him at least +10-12fps with optimal settings at the very least.
Perhaps so, but you have to remember that future-proofing one's PC or trying to upgrade a card that you've pushed to its limits is a lot different from getting your first card that can run a lot of high-end titles. It takes some perspective. He didn't specify at all what he was willing to spend, but I suspect that anyone who says "Thief, Tomb Raider and older games" isn't looking to play a bleeding edge game released in 2016 at high settings.
cool, anything else youd rec on the lower side of the scale?
760 and up would be a noticable upgrade. And you can still pretty easily get $100 for a 570
I understand, but would it be so bad get a card that is $229 after a rebate www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133492 that will at least give you a better baseline moving forward in performance? It isn't much more expensive than a 660 especially with the rebate. True, it isn't going to play games like Witcher 3 that well but buying a 660 in 2014 doesn't really add up.
KodeAndGame
Member
I also have a GTX 570 that I don't intend to upgrade till at least next year. I have to upgrade the CPU because that's def the bottleneck right now - I have an old Q8400
it's been a great card, best i've ever had.
as far as pricing on the 780, currently being about $515 or so, any thought on how likely it is to drop in the next few months?
SneakyStephan
Banned
no , what's special about it is that it has low power consumption which makes it perfect for HTPC builds (which are small form factor and have to be dead quiet for movie watching)
not relevant for a regular gaming pc there you want performance/dollar and the new r7 265 from amd or a 270 are faster at a similar price point
There is no such thing as a card 'perfect for people who just got into pc gaming', there is only a card to match a budget or power requirement (in the case of stuffing a dedicated gpu in some crappy OEM machine your parents bought that only has a 300watt psu, or when making a HTPC)
also bang for buck wise the sweetspot for gpus is around the 200-260 euro mark, (gtx 760 and the 280x, though I guess the latter isn't an option in the US right now due to the coin miners) , spend any less and you'll get less performance/dollar, spend more and you'll pay a premium for any extra performance as well, so if you have the budget it's a no brainer to go for those cards
When you make a budget build you'll get less bang for your buck, that's just inherent to how pc building works since you always have the base cost of the ram,hdd,psu, case etc
also if he has the budget and buys a decent i5 he will have the option of just buying the next bang for buck 200 euro gpu 3-4 years down the line (which will be a monster compared to what's out today) without the cpu bottlenecking it
that's why you only always see the same cpus recommended in these threads, there's not a whole lot of viable choice right now
you are either on a strict budget and get an i3 (which will crap all over even the 200 euro 8 core amd 8350fx cpu in any game that supports 4 cores or less - which is 95 percent of games) or you spend the extra for the bang for buck i5 (and if you have money to burn you can get the i7)
You should recommend things based on data and hard numbers, not on what you think the trend is or w/e
It's a solid GPU but now that the 760 is out and in the same price range, there's no reason to get a 660.
Basically you can start on the lower end with the new 750 or consider something like the 760 on the "higher end" (but not really) if you are budget oriented.
Okay, well thank you for your input. I might ask Liquid what he thinks about it in the build we're making.
No, I dont care about a "bleeding eye game released in 2016". I just want to be able to play that game in 2016 in at least 720p and with better fps that in any of the next-gen systems. I just dont want to buy a new graphic card every other year.
And yeah, I just want to feel good after I sell my ps4. I dont want to feel like: " why did I sell my ps4. Now I cant play this third party game decently in my relative new PC from 2015"...
Edit: And the budget? Well around USD1000 or 9000SEK
That's mostly due to the limited options in the price range. For the most part the minimum considered card should be a 760.
-COOLIO-
The Everyman
that's not very good trade in my opinion. the ps4 has a much better gpu and it's a console, so its gpu will go further.
Sounds good. Thanks!
Thanks. I'll see if we can do something about that. I know Liquidmetal will probably want to strangle me, but it's better to fix this now.
Oh, well you should definitely get the 760.
Wolf Akela
Member
Posting this here too.
Weird things. Display froze, sounds still okay. Restarted. No more signal.
1. Bought new cable. Monitor says bad cables.
2. Used old cable + TV + onboard. Ok.
3. Used new cable + TV + GPU. Nope.
4. Used both cable + TV + old GPU. Nope.
5. Tries step #2 again and SOMEHOW doesnt work anymore.
Reseated RAMs. Tried many combinations of RAM, cable, GPU, and display but got nothing.
Can't do POST diagnostic because no chassis speaker. Ripped one from an old case. No beeps, but may or may not be working itself. Cant find any local place that sells em. Online shopping will take too long to ship given location.
Gonna try to see if I can test my RAM, new cable and chassis speaker at work if they work. If they all do... does this mean my motherboard died? How would that happen? How did things die? I wasnt doing anything intensive when it all started. No funny thunderstorms or power fluctuations going around. My PSU is a Seasonic too.
I could buy a new proc + mobo but I would really hate it if it doesnt work. I cant imagine it not working but who knows? I dont want to pour money on a 2 gen old mobo.
Specs:
i3 2100
ASRock H61M-VS
2x4 GSkill 4gb ddr1333
Sapphire HD5850
520w Seasonic
Weird things. Display froze, sounds still okay. Restarted. No more signal.
1. Bought new cable. Monitor says bad cables.
2. Used old cable + TV + onboard. Ok.
3. Used new cable + TV + GPU. Nope.
4. Used both cable + TV + old GPU. Nope.
5. Tries step #2 again and SOMEHOW doesnt work anymore.
Reseated RAMs. Tried many combinations of RAM, cable, GPU, and display but got nothing.
Can't do POST diagnostic because no chassis speaker. Ripped one from an old case. No beeps, but may or may not be working itself. Cant find any local place that sells em. Online shopping will take too long to ship given location.
Gonna try to see if I can test my RAM, new cable and chassis speaker at work if they work. If they all do... does this mean my motherboard died? How would that happen? How did things die? I wasnt doing anything intensive when it all started. No funny thunderstorms or power fluctuations going around. My PSU is a Seasonic too.
I could buy a new proc + mobo but I would really hate it if it doesnt work. I cant imagine it not working but who knows? I dont want to pour money on a 2 gen old mobo.
Specs:
i3 2100
ASRock H61M-VS
2x4 GSkill 4gb ddr1333
Sapphire HD5850
520w Seasonic
The_Hitcher89
Member
Seems that it was Iminent bottlenecking my bandwidth, now its stuck on an SSD while I start from scratch with an old and new HDD, and a decent internet connection. Anyone know the best way for completely reformating an SSD? I'd connect it to my laptop and see if my antivirus could wipe Iminent off of it, but I'm afraid that it would merely spread to the laptop's HDD and leave me with a bricked laptop, and a bricked SSD.
Iminent being on the old HDD is not out of the question, a bit worried that it is biding its time to spread to the current HDD. Ran a Program search for it, and it seems not to be on there, but it's done that before and come back.
Resynching my MS account and downloading the old programmes will be a pain in the arse, but necessary
Iminent being on the old HDD is not out of the question, a bit worried that it is biding its time to spread to the current HDD. Ran a Program search for it, and it seems not to be on there, but it's done that before and come back.
Resynching my MS account and downloading the old programmes will be a pain in the arse, but necessary
AstroNut325
Member
Any know a good way to remove a heatsink mounting plate on a motherboard?
I have an older Asus motherboard with a Q6600 I would like to gift someone. But the old heatsink required a mounting plate on the backside of the motherboard. The mounting plate is GLUED to the motherboard. I tried to gently pry it off but no luck. I'm afraid I would damage the motherboard. Should I try isopropyl alcohol?
I have an older Asus motherboard with a Q6600 I would like to gift someone. But the old heatsink required a mounting plate on the backside of the motherboard. The mounting plate is GLUED to the motherboard. I tried to gently pry it off but no luck. I'm afraid I would damage the motherboard. Should I try isopropyl alcohol?
Pop your Windows disc/USB in and boot from that - when you get to choosing a disc to install to you can select your SSD and delete the partition. Then just create a new one and quick format.
a secret-boss
Banned
I'm in the process of build right now since this is my first build I'm confuse
I have 600t Corsair case and Maximus Hero IV MB
I have 600t Corsair case and Maximus Hero IV MB
- 600t has 2 USB wires. I connected one to the USB socket, but there's another USB connector available (not 1314). Can I connect this other USB to the 1314 connector of the mother board?
- The Maximus Manual says that the AAFP connector is HD audio compliant. Is this where I put the Corsair's HD Audio cable? the Corsair also has an AC 97 cable but I don't know where to put it
The_Hitcher89
Member
When I reinstalled from within Windows, it said it would clear the SSD, but when it was back up, all the non-vitals were gone but sure enough, Iminent was still on there somewhere
If I reinstall from scratch, does it do a proper reformat then, like factory settings? Also, would it count as a new PC? Not sure how many W8 activations I have left. Think I've used the key 5 times now.
1) I don't think that works, it needs to be a USB header.
2) The case will have a HD Audio cable and an AC97 one - ignore the AC97 one and connect the HD Audio one to the motherboard.
If you do it from within Windows it doesn't do a complete format, it just "resets" it. Reinstall from scratch (i.e. from boot media, delete the partition and start again) will get rid of it. If your key won't activate you can call an automated Microsoft number to get it re-activated.When I reinstalled from within Windows, it said it would clear the SSD, but when it was back up, all the non-vitals were gone but sure enough, Iminent was still on there somewhere
If I reinstall from scratch, does it do a proper reformat then, like factory settings? Also, would it count as a new PC? Not sure how many W8 activations I have left. Think I've used the key 5 times now.
Putting together a "kids homework build" from a bunch of spare parts I have around. Decidedly not gaming. The one thing I lack is an hdd, and I'm trying to do this entirely without cost. I DO have a 2.5 inch, 500 gb hdd I pulled from my ps4 (replaced with a 1tb, faster, drive).
Should I hook it up to another build and format it? Or just physically install it, boot windows from the DVD, then install windows to it from the disc? Will that take care of partitioning it the right way?
I know...it's an esoteric question..just looking for some thoughts.
Should I hook it up to another build and format it? Or just physically install it, boot windows from the DVD, then install windows to it from the disc? Will that take care of partitioning it the right way?
I know...it's an esoteric question..just looking for some thoughts.
The_Hitcher89
Member
Cool,will try that tomorrow. If it doesn't work again I can just switch the SSD out again
Cheers
Wack it in, boot from disc and you can partition/format it in there
a secret-boss
Banned
On the manual it says 2x 2.0 USB and next to the the dedicated USB header is USB (1314) header
Thanks for the input. Yeah, I guess replacing the fan would be the cheapest option at this point. Now I'll at least have an excuse to get a Silent Wings
Excuse my ignorance on the matter, but could you elaborate on the wire fault detector and where exactly I would use it?
Whoops, my bad - I was thinking of Firewire 1394!On the manual it says 2x 2.0 USB and next to the the dedicated USB header is USB (1314) header
Yes, you can plug the second cable in that 1314 port just fine
Hello GAF,
I am planning on building a PC (eventually). Due to my profession, now is not a good time, but I want to start educating myself and planning now. This PC will be built primarily for gaming (and browsing/email, but not video editing, engineering software, or anything like that).
This will be my first build and I am naturally feeling a little overwhelmed, so a few questions.
1. Is building your own from scratch recommended for someone on their first build?
2. Compatibility and maximizing strengths of your components seems key. Is there a website where I can start with say a CPU and then see only compatible components?
3. Any other tips or resources that I might find helpful?
4. What would be a good defining starting point? CPU?
I apologize as I am sure this is a common reply to this thread. Thanks for any and all help!
I am planning on building a PC (eventually). Due to my profession, now is not a good time, but I want to start educating myself and planning now. This PC will be built primarily for gaming (and browsing/email, but not video editing, engineering software, or anything like that).
This will be my first build and I am naturally feeling a little overwhelmed, so a few questions.
1. Is building your own from scratch recommended for someone on their first build?
2. Compatibility and maximizing strengths of your components seems key. Is there a website where I can start with say a CPU and then see only compatible components?
3. Any other tips or resources that I might find helpful?
4. What would be a good defining starting point? CPU?
I apologize as I am sure this is a common reply to this thread. Thanks for any and all help!
Windows 8.1 has lower general resource usage than Windows 7, meaning more resources available for other applications (i.e. games), plus it also supports DirectX 11.1/11.2 and no doubt future versions of DirectX which Windows 7 doesn't.
Building from scratch is recommended and honestly isn't as hard as it might look - it can actually be pretty fun, plus you get the feeling of accomplishment at building it yourself. There are plenty of guides (including ones listed on in the OP) that can advise you on how to build a system, or you can ask in here.
You can use PCPartPicker to help you pick out parts - it will usually (although not always) prevent you from selecting parts which are incompatible with each other. Of course, we can always advise you and there are sample builds in the OP.
A good starting point would be if you fill out the questionnaire in the OP (under the Builds part) and post it in here - we can advise you on the best bits to go for for your budget as well
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
If anyone remembers, a while ago I mentioned having some coil whine coming from my GPU after swapping it out briefly.
Seemingly, leaving it out of the computer for a couple of days and putting back in has now gotten rid of it. Not sure why but I am rolling with it
Seemingly, leaving it out of the computer for a couple of days and putting back in has now gotten rid of it. Not sure why but I am rolling with it
maneil99
Member
The "Remove everything and reset Windows" is actually really good. Only thing that will stick around is your desktop wallpaper ( Cloud Synced ) and the colour you picked for Windows 8.
maneil99
Member
If anyone remembers, a while ago I mentioned having some coil whine coming from my GPU after swapping it out briefly.
Seemingly, leaving it out of the computer for a couple of days and putting back in has now gotten rid of it. Not sure why but I am rolling with it
Are you playing the same games? Try a game that gets you high fps without vsync. IT could be your PSU.
a secret-boss
Banned
Whoops, my bad - I was thinking of Firewire 1394!
Yes, you can plug the second cable in that 1314 port just fine
wheeew thanks
I'm almost there crossing my finger motherboard doesn't blow up.
QUESTION
My motherboard only have 4 optional fan headers
So How do I go about adding more fans. is there a way to connect it to my PSU?
Building from scratch is recommended and honestly isn't as hard as it might look - it can actually be pretty fun, plus you get the feeling of accomplishment at building it yourself. There are plenty of guides (including ones listed on in the OP) that can advise you on how to build a system, or you can ask in here.
You can use PCPartPicker to help you pick out parts - it will usually (although not always) prevent you from selecting parts which are incompatible with each other. Of course, we can always advise you and there are sample builds in the OP.
A good starting point would be if you fill out the questionnaire in the OP (under the Builds part) and post it in here - we can advise you on the best bits to go for for your budget as well
Thank you so much! Like you said, I am hoping to get more out of it than just the finished product (educate myself more on PCs, enjoyment of customizing and building, etc.)
I will look into that survey as well as your link. Thanks again!
Thank you too Monosukoi!
1. Check out the TechReport build video in the OP, or here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea_bs5G1yYU
It's a relatively simple process provided you have some common sense, are careful, and research your parts correctly in order to make sure you have all the right parts that'll fit together.
2. Check out http://pcpartpicker.com/ , there are also variants for different locations outside of the USA. You could start with picking a CPU, or even a case (as this will decide your form factor) and go from there. Don't worry too much about a starting point, because things will probably change a lot as you do more and more research and really target what you need/want.
3. Again, check out the OP with links to various sites like Anandtech, TechReport, Bit-Tech, sites that review and benchmark certain components.
4. Sure, if you like. I think it'd be better to start off with a budget, though. Then you can slowly build up a computer to that budget, and then rearrange it to better suit your needs. Be sure to ask the thread lots of questions if you need to!
Try filling out the form in the OP with your budget and your current PC specs, and let everyone here help you.
You only need to add more fans if you're finding the fans you have aren't providing sufficient cooling, but if you do get to the point where you need to add more fans than you have two options.
1) You can split the headers on your board with one of these:
2) or you can get an adapter which converts a molex connection from your PSU into some fan headers:
Do I need to put the PSU this way (01) or the other way (02) ?
01) This is how I had it before.
02) This is how it is now.
With your budget of $700-$1000, do you want just the system itself or the system plus a monitor, keyboard/mouse etc?
Your power supply will have a big fan on one side of it, like this:
You want the fan side to be facing the underside of the case. For example, look at this build:
Notice how you can't see the fan on the power supply, as it is on the underside.
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