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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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maneil99

Member
Dumb question maybe but are there any new "milestone" GPUs or CPUs or anything else in the near future that'll be worth waiting for?

As old as my old Desktop is, my laptop has a pretty decent (albeit also old) DX 10/11 discrete video card and I've been able to play new-ish games on my TV at 720p which looks surprisingly good. It hit me that I could comfortably wait a little longer before I upgrade.

The one game that seems to obliterate my laptop is Assassin's Creed Black Flag. I have to turn quite a bit off to get it at a playable framerate. However, given my tremendous backlog (I'm currently playing Saint's Row IV), I'm not really in any hurry to play it.

Yes, maxwell will be out by the end of the year on 20nm. CPU advancements aren't like before so you can jump into that market without much issue
 

tehbible

Member
If you weren't gaming then sure the Xeon is a good CPU that gives you plenty of threads for not too much money but in most gaming scenarios the 4670K will be the better option.

Just because Xeon is marketed for servers/enterprise level applications doesn't mean its not a 'good choice' for gamers. They're essentially rebadged i7's. I've looked at the benchmarks, and the difference is literally negligible in terms of gaming. Sure, a game like CIV V will benefit from overclocking, but the amount of games that are CPU-bound are small compared to GPU-bound games. Also, there is no hyper-threading support for i5 CPUs.

Last point about the savings on a Gold rated PSU. Again, they're not significant. You do get much better internals though and a quieter unit.

If you have your rig on a moderate amount of time, it absolutely makes a difference, especially if you're using discrete GPUs, otherwise nobody would be buying GOLD rated PSUs, particularly for altcoin miners. There is a reason why GOLD PSU's are hard to find for 1000w+ PSUs for a reasonable price. Please check out Anandtech's comaprison of a non rated PSU vs a Platinum PSU.

For a system that mostly sits idle, you won’t quite break even by going with an 80 Plus Platinum power supply. However, if there’s a graphics card installed and you do a moderate amount of gaming you should eventually come out ahead. More extreme use cases (e.g. 24/7 Folding@Home) start to rapidly recover the initial investment in a quality power supply, and when you consider the reduced heat and noise that comes with having a more efficient PSU, it’s definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Not all 80 Plus Platinum power supplies are created equal, of course, but generally speaking the electronics and engineering required to get that certification also come with a higher level of quality than what you’ll find in lower efficiency PSUs.

My PC is as quiet as stock as it is now OC'd, nor do you need a bulky air cooler. An H60 will suffice.

H60 makes a considerable amount of noise compared to some air-based coolers with negligible difference in terms of temps. I'd grab a quiet Noctua cooler than an H60 tbh.

Games like Titanfall and others built on Source, BF4 etc. all benefit from a good overclock.

BF4 isn't built on source. Source is a fairly old engine that won't benefit much from overclocking. Sure you might go from 150+ fps to 175+ fps. Difference isn't much when FPS is that high anyhow since most people will not be able to tell the difference.

Just to make a case for overclocking here, the i7 920 is going on what... five years old now? It will bottleneck newer graphics cards at stock speeds, but clocked to 4 GHz and it's more than enough.

Interesting that you mention the i7 920 as I've been using it since it launched. After I switched to haswell non-OC CPU (i7-4770t) I saved literally $20 a month on my electricity bill. Then again, I do keep my rig on most of the day/night.
 

yatesl

Member
Does anyone have any advice overclocking a Gigabyte GTX 770 2GB?

My CPU is a 4670 overclocked at 4.2 @ 1.235v (about as high as I can take it). I hadn't considered overlocking my GPU before though - which I guess will have a bigger impact on games than my CPU would.

I already have MSI Afterburner installed as I use the overlay for FPS.
 

Jordoon

Member
I am experiencing the most bizarre PC problem of my life. After doing a fresh install of Windows 7 on my new rig I just built, I notice that maximizing windows and dragging the "highlight box" around the desktop are all sluggish, like molasses. Not extreme, but very noticeable.

Now here is the weird part. If I open up a freaking Google Chrome window, everything starts going butter smooth! Even if Chrome is minimized this is still the case.

To be clear, I am talking about things that have nothing to do with Chrome, running faster just because Chrome is open!

Why on earth would having a Chrome window open SPEED UP my PC?

I am attaching a pic of my task manager with Chrome open and without Chrome open. I don't see anything out o the ordinary in either case.

Also, I tried uninstalling Chrome and seeing what happened, and again everything moved like molasses. Reinstalled Chrome and opened up a Chrome window, and boom, everything going butter smooth. W...T...F...

I've got an i7 4770 on an MSI Z87-G45 gaming mobo with 16 GB of Corsair vengeance and a Samsung SSD and a VisionTek eye 6 Radeon 7750 video card. Though the specs probably dont matter in this case...the real mystery is why Chrome would make things run better.

Do you have Norton? My old laptop had Norton installed, and whenever Chrome wasn't open the computer would run really slow. It had something to do with Norton's Identity Safe feature.
 

Ghizz

Member
Hi guys, going to be a first time PC builder! My budget is probably going to be a $500-600 rig as I also need to buy a monitor on top of that. Are there any recommended specs?

Also, is it recommended to buy seperate parts from seperate vendors to get the cheapest price? My friends told me to just wait for a good 'supercombo' on newegg? But I've heard that some of their combos are wonky and the parts don't fit with each other....

Thanks!

Edit:

Main Use: 4ish, light to heavy gaming

Monitor Resolution: buying a new monitor, probably 1920 x 1080
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: MMOs, Titanfall. medium-high settings with decent fps i guess?
Looking to reuse any parts?: fresh off the boat
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? hopefully in two weeks? order it sometime this week and build it during spring break?
Will you be overclocking?: Don't know how, but if it squeezes more performance out of the rig with no consequences...then sure?
 

LordAlu

Member
Hi guys, going to be a first time PC builder! My budget is probably going to be a $500-600 rig as I also need to buy a monitor on top of that. Are there any recommended specs?

Also, is it recommended to buy seperate parts from seperate vendors to get the cheapest price? My friends told me to just wait for a good 'supercombo' on newegg? But I've heard that some of their combos are wonky and the parts don't fit with each other....

Thanks!
There's a questionnaire in the OP under the "Builds" section entitled Basic Desktop Questions - copy it into a post and fill that out and we can help you pick some stuff. There's also some recommended builds a bit further down - take a look at the "Budget" build which is for a similar budget - bear in mind you'd need Windows and your monitor.

Edit: Here's an example one for you:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor ($65.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi B85S3+ Ver. 6.x Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($134.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($25.00 @ Reddit)
Monitor: Acer G226HQLBbd 60Hz 21.5" Monitor ($117.29 @ Amazon)
Total: $601.21
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-09 17:15 EDT-0400)

I've gone for a decent base power supply to account for a further upgrade to your graphics card at a later time, as well as 8GB RAM (although 4GB is fine to begin with). You could potentailly drop the power supply down to the Antec VP450 and 4GB RAM and replace the Pentium with the Core i3-4130 but I'd personally stick with the one above and then just buy an i5 later down the road. You wouldn't be able to do overclocking later with that motherboard though, so bear that in mind.

Edit 2: I may have misread whether you need a monitor as part of that budget or on top of it. If the $600 is just for the system, this would be a bit better:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($112.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87W ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($98.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($169.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Microcenter)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($25.00)
Total: $604.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-09 17:49 EDT-0400)

Better processor, better graphics card and a motherboard that would also allow overclocking if you decide to upgrade from the Core i3 to an i5-4670k or i7-4770k. You could also drop the board and power supply down if you'd like and put in a 120GB SSD :)
 

Pachimari

Member
I picked up my card reader today - anyway, I can already pick up the thermal paste tomorrow, so I'll probably try fire up my beast then. I have let all the parts dry but should I clean them as well somehow?

Also, can someone help me with this? I don't understand why it fails, when I'm using Microsoft's official software to install it unto a USB or is there a more software-directed thread?

Btw when I try to put Windows 7 on my USB it gives me this message:

mYJJ8Zk.jpg


I'm using Microsoft's "Windows 7 USB DVD Download Tool" and follows the 4 steps. I even formatted the USB which is on 16GB.
 

kayos90

Tragic victim of fan death
Can someone help me with the technobabble when attempting to buy a new monitor? I'm currently using a 4 year old Samsung 23'' LCD TV as my desktop monitor but i'm looking to purchase a monitor that is optimal for gaming. I'm willing to spend a good amount of money for it. Any terms I should be on the look out for and is there a good, better, best solution anyone can assist with? I know there are some options in the OT but I was hoping for a more expansive explanation. Also, possibly what's a reliable brand.
 

yatesl

Member
Does anyone have any advice overclocking a Gigabyte GTX 770 2GB?

My CPU is a 4670 overclocked at 4.2 @ 1.235v (about as high as I can take it). I hadn't considered overlocking my GPU before though - which I guess will have a bigger impact on games than my CPU would.

I already have MSI Afterburner installed as I use the overlay for FPS.

So I used EVGA Precision and set my power target to 111%, my temp target to 90c, and my CPU offset to +40. However, after about 10 minutes in Kombuster, the driver crashed.

Don't some people set the offset to 70MHz? Do I have a garbage card?
 

Ra1den

Member
Do you have Norton? My old laptop had Norton installed, and whenever Chrome wasn't open the computer would run really slow. It had something to do with Norton's Identity Safe feature.

I do not... no AV at the moment actually as Security Essentials was possibly to blame for an earlier problem prior to my fresh install. Norton was available on my driver disk with my motherboard but I did not install it.

That is interesting though, I wonder if Windows Defender is doing something similar.
 

maneil99

Member
So I used EVGA Precision and set my power target to 111%, my temp target to 90c, and my CPU offset to +40. However, after about 10 minutes in Kombuster, the driver crashed.

Don't some people set the offset to 70MHz? Do I have a garbage card?

you need to up voltage too
 
Newbie overclocking monitor question.

I found I could overclock my monitor slightly to run at 65 Hz from 60 Hz. 67Hz and up gave artifacts. Are there any downsides to doing this? I have an overclocked 780 Ti, so many games I run are at 60+fps, so I imagine things will be slightly smoother for me. I've never done this before, so just wanted to check. :)
 

LordAlu

Member
I picked up my card reader today - anyway, I can already pick up the thermal paste tomorrow, so I'll probably try fire up my beast then. I have let all the parts dry but should I clean them as well somehow?

Also, can someone help me with this? I don't understand why it fails, when I'm using Microsoft's official software to install it unto a USB or is there a more software-directed thread?
Try this:

USB Tool - Bootsect

If you bought Windows 7 from the MS Store:

Q: When creating a bootable USB device, I am getting an error about bootsect

A: To make the USB device bootable, you need to run a tool named bootsect.exe. In some cases, this tool needs to be downloaded from your Microsoft Store account. This may happen if you're trying to create a 64-bit bootable USB device from a 32-bit version of Windows. To download bootsect:
  1. Login to your Microsoft Store account to view your purchase history:
    http://www.microsoftstore.com
  2. Look for your Windows 7 purchase.
  3. Next to Windows 7, there is an "Additional download options" drop-down menu.
  4. In the drop-down menu, select "32-bit ISO."
  5. Right-click the link, and then save the bootsect.exe file to the location where you installed the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool (e.g. C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Apps\Windows 7 USB DVD Download Tool).
  6. Once the file has been saved, go back to the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download tool to create your bootable USB device.
    
If you didn't buy Windows 7 from the MS Store:

Follow these instructions for getting around the bootsect error:

  1. Download and install the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool program as indicated on the Microsoft Store web site.
  2. Download a working 32-bit version of bootsect.exe . Below is a link to 32 bit bootsect.exe:
    http://www.sevenforums.com/attachme...263222191-32-bit-bootsect-bootsect7600x86.zip
    From: http://www.sevenforums.com/installation-setup/54443-32-bit-bootsect.html
  3. Once downloaded, copy the BootSect.exe file to the same folder that includes the installed Windows7-USB-DVD-Download-Tool.exe file. The default install directory of that file in Windows Vista is C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Local\Apps\Windows 7 USB DVD Download Tool\ (you'll need to look for it in XP)
  4. Run the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool application as indicated on the Microsoft Store web site. The end result will give you a bootable USB flash drive that contains everything you need to install the 64-bit version of Windows 7.
 

Durante

Member
Dumb question maybe but are there any new "milestone" GPUs or CPUs or anything else in the near future that'll be worth waiting for?
In terms of CPU, it depends on how much you want to spend. If it's in enthusiast territory it's probably worth it to wait for Haswell E.
 

mattiewheels

And then the LORD David Bowie saith to his Son, Jonny Depp: 'Go, and spread my image amongst the cosmos. For every living thing is in anguish and only the LIGHT shall give them reprieve.'
If the plastic bit broke off of the top of the sata connector on my hard drive (the bit on top that helps you connect the cable), but the pins underneath are still okay, is there anything I can do to repair?
 

Ra1den

Member
Do you have Norton? My old laptop had Norton installed, and whenever Chrome wasn't open the computer would run really slow. It had something to do with Norton's Identity Safe feature.

Holy crap, it was the Windows 7 firewall! I disabled it, then closed all Chrome Windows, and everything still like butter!

So having Chrome open somehow keeps the firewall happy? Now I want to turn it off even with Chrome open since it is clearly slowing things down, but that may be a bad idea. I'll look for a third party solution that doesn't slow things down.

Thanks for the help.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
Holy crap, it was the Windows 7 firewall! I disabled it, then closed all Chrome Windows, and everything still like butter!

So having Chrome open somehow keeps the firewall happy? Now I want to turn it off even with Chrome open since it is clearly slowing things down, but that may be a bad idea. I'll look for a third party solution that doesn't slow things down.

Thanks for the help.

I've not heard of the Windows Essentials security toolkit in 7 or 8 interfering with operations. I suspect that you have something else going on with your system.

unless I have simply been not listening for issues with the Windows security
 

Ra1den

Member
I've not heard of the Windows Essentials security toolkit in 7 or 8 interfering with operations. I suspect that you have something else going on with your system.

unless I have simply been not listening for issues with the Windows security

I don't have Security Essentials on this install...that was only on my prior install. On my current install of Windows 7, all I have right now is the built in Windows firewall. And it seems to want Chrome to be open or it slows me down severely.
 

Pachimari

Member
Try this:
Thanks for this, I'm gonna try it out tomorrow night when I come home.

Such an exciting day tomorrow. Gonna install the card reader, is gonna buy a 360 controller, will hopefully end up with a bootable Windows 7 USB and is finally gonna apply the goo between my CPU and heatsink and probably fire it up to see if all the parts work.
 

Bronetta

Ask me about the moon landing or the temperature at which jet fuel burns. You may be surprised at what you learn.
Is the ASUS VG248QE the best monitor for the price if I want GSYNC? Its $300 in Canada.

Pics of build.
 

tehbible

Member
Is the ASUS VG248QE the best monitor for the price if I want GSYNC? Its $300 in Canada.

PC gaming at 1080p?

Get a $279 monitor that does 2560x1440 imo. I actually returned that monitor for the a higher resolution monitor and glad I made the right choice.
 
As others have said, you'd be much better served with an i5-4670K and an Z87 LGA 1150 motherboard. You could drop to 8GB's of ram. For a 256GB SSD I'd recommend the samsung 840 EVO for $137.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W19MO/?tag=neogaf0e-20. Are you sure you need the optical drive? Also get Windows on Reddit/r/softwareswap. Got my key there for $20

Here's an updated build.
[[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/36EOb) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/36EOb/by_merchant/) / [Benchmarks](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/36EOb/benchmarks/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54670k) | $229.99 @ NCIX US
**Motherboard** | [MSI Z87-G55 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-z87g55) | $123.98 @ SuperBiiz
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http:/|/pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cmz8gx3m2a1600c9) | $77.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te250bw) | $137.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm001) | $89.99 @ Newegg
**Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-gtx770dc2oc2gd5) | $328.98 @ SuperBiiz
**Case** | [Fractal Design Arc Midi Tower ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcaarcbl) | $109.99 @ Amazon
**Power Supply** | [Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-rm650) | $89.99 @ Newegg
**Optical Drive** | [Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-bc12b1stblkbas) | $59.98 @ Newegg
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1238.88
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-09 00:23 EST-0500

Did you install the Reddit purchased Windows key during the initial boot? If so, how? On a CDR, or a USB?

I plan on buying a similar MSI motherboard and would appreciate saving $60 on buying this instead of the $90 disc.
 

Water

Member
Is the ASUS VG248QE the best monitor for the price if I want GSYNC? Its $300 in Canada.
It doesn't have G-Sync. It's just the first display for which you can get G-Sync by buying a DIY G-Sync kit, ripping the display's guts out and replacing them, or shipping your display to someone who'll do this for you. That can cost as much as the display itself. If you are price conscious, you'll wait until a new model is available that is built with G-Sync to begin with.
 

2San

Member
It doesn't have G-Sync. It's just the first display for which you can get G-Sync by buying a DIY G-Sync kit, ripping the display's guts out and replacing them, or shipping your display to someone who'll do this for you. That can cost as much as the display itself. If you are price conscious, you'll wait until a new model is available that is built with G-Sync to begin with.
Yeah the DIY kit seems like a real pain in the ass. I have a VG248QE, don't think I'll bother.

There's the BenQ XL2420G coming, linus was raving about the non gsync version (XL2420TE).
 

kharma45

Member
Just because Xeon is marketed for servers/enterprise level applications doesn't mean its not a 'good choice' for gamers. They're essentially rebadged i7's. I've looked at the benchmarks, and the difference is literally negligible in terms of gaming. Sure, a game like CIV V will benefit from overclocking, but the amount of games that are CPU-bound are small compared to GPU-bound games. Also, there is no hyper-threading support for i5 CPUs.

No, there are a huge amount of CPU bound games. Especially when it comes to multiplayer, although it rarely gets benchmarked.

I didn't say the Xeon was bad, I said the i5 was better. Which it is.

If you have your rig on a moderate amount of time, it absolutely makes a difference, especially if you're using discrete GPUs, otherwise nobody would be buying GOLD rated PSUs, particularly for altcoin miners. There is a reason why GOLD PSU's are hard to find for 1000w+ PSUs for a reasonable price. Please check out Anandtech's comaprison of a non rated PSU vs a Platinum PSU.


Again you're misconstruing what I said. I said the savings aren't significant, which is true. That's not a particularly great Bronze unit they're using and the savings aren't exactly huge even when running 24/7. Sure if you run 3D Mark putting the GPU to 100% load all day then go for a Platinum unit but that's not a realistic scenario. It'll be sub $5 for almost everyone in this thread as no one is running their rigs all day and all night. Whilst many years down the line you might break even it's not worth it for most people paying the increased up front cost.


H60 makes a considerable amount of noise compared to some air-based coolers with negligible difference in terms of temps. I'd grab a quiet Noctua cooler than an H60 tbh.

A Noctua is better but I was arguing that you don't need a bulky cooler to OC, nor does it get that noisy with the 2013 model. Anyway, as I was trying to say too, OCing doesn't mean increased noise if you've got a good cooler.


BF4 isn't built on source. Source is a fairly old engine that won't benefit much from overclocking. Sure you might go from 150+ fps to 175+ fps. Difference isn't much when FPS is that high anyhow since most people will not be able to tell the difference.

I wrote that badly, I was trying to separate BF4 from the Source games with the comma. Frostbite stuff benefits massively from OCing online, as does Source. To say it doesn't is balls

AbxKnh.png


ThP7Rh.png


lh4FYh.png


If that's not beneficial I'm fucking Santa. That's using a 3570K w/ 7970 doing increments of 200MHz. Anything Source based is going to have significant differences with processor speeds and IPC.
 

2San

Member
I wrote that badly, I was trying to separate BF4 from the Source games with the comma. Frostbite stuff benefits massively from OCing online, as does Source. To say it doesn't is balls

If that's not beneficial I'm fucking Santa. That's using a 3570K w/ 7970 doing increments of 200MHz. Anything Source based is going to have significant differences with processor speeds and IPC.
There's also the whole emulation thing which is pretty CPU depended and play really nice with intel cpu's.
 

Smokey

Member
Got the 780Ti's installed. Haven't done any testing/benching yet:

13046614255_062298035b_b.jpg

13046961574_c342a756a2_b.jpg

13046625905_f7eb96ea66_b.jpg


I had a black EVGA SLI bridge, but can't find it so I had to dig and I found the Asus. That bugs me. Looking out for the Pro bridge to restock @ EVGA.

I used the Samsung Magician software and ran the benchmark on the Evo and the Intel SSD (OS).

zO63V4A.jpg


Is the Intel that bad?! It's on Sata 2 vs the Evo on Sata 3. I haven't done any optimization like it says in the capture. I plan to do a fresh W8.1 install on the Samsung soon anyway. The gap in performance between the two is pretty wide.

The evo is taped on the back of the case. Could have placed it in the HDD cage, but didn't have an adapter. Probably won't add much more to the FT02. Love the case but it is definitely cramped for what I have going on. A new one will probably be my next computer purchase.
 

2San

Member
Is the Intel that bad?! It's on Sata 2 vs the Evo on Sata 3. I haven't done any optimization like it says in the capture. I plan to do a fresh W8.1 install on the Samsung soon anyway. The gap in performance between the two is pretty wide.

The evo is taped on the back of the case. Could have placed it in the HDD cage, but didn't have an adapter. Probably won't add much more to the FT02. Love the case but it is definitely cramped for what I have going on. A new one will probably be my next computer purchase.
I'm no expert, but I think the putting it on Sata II is the problem. Isn't that capped to 300MB/s or something?

Putting that Evo on Sata II would give you something around 270MB/s as well. Not sure what's up with the sequential write though.
 
Brief question: I currently have a Turtle Beach headset with the DSS mixer thing, that turns audio into surround sound. I love it, and I want to keep that feature going for my next upgrade (a headset with surround sound). Currently I have the mixer plugged in with optical on my PC but is there really any reason to do that? Or would a normal 3.5mm plug do the same thing, since it mixes it anyway?
 

Jafku

Member
Did you install the Reddit purchased Windows key during the initial boot? If so, how? On a CDR, or a USB?

I plan on buying a similar MSI motherboard and would appreciate saving $60 on buying this instead of the $90 disc.

Well that is an example build for someone else. However, I did purchase a key from reddit and did a clean install on my PC. I used a USB drive. The buyer provided me with a key and a clean ISO. Then I used the Windows 7 USB install tool located here: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool#installation. It will guide you through the steps
 

mkenyon

Banned
Lots of stuff
In case you missed it, you should really read this post. There's a lot of games where there's a 1:1 increase in performance when you overclock. In a lot of cases, overclocking is what pushes those games to the point where you no longer have nasty chugs during heavy CPU usage in multiplayer games. That's really important, as when shit is going crazy in a multiplayer game is when you need the lowest input possible.
 

Bumhead

Banned
Quick question, but is there anything in particular I'd need to consider if putting together a mini/mid tower build?

I may be putting a build together for a colleague, who is wanting a smaller case than a traditional tower for his living room. I've only ever built with the larger towers, though. Will the same regular parts fit inside the mini/smaller cases? Is there any issues with heat or power I should know about? Are any of the cases too small to support certain GPU's or components?
 

Jafku

Member
Quick question, but is there anything in particular I'd need to consider if putting together a mini/mid tower build?

I may be putting a build together for a colleague, who is wanting a smaller case than a traditional tower for his living room. I've only ever built with the larger towers, though. Will the same regular parts fit inside the mini/smaller cases? Is there any issues with heat or power I should know about? Are any of the cases too small to support certain GPU's or components?
Check out the small form factor builds in the op.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=95808604&postcount=4
 
Just wondering, is there a way to switch from a USB headset to speakers plugged without unplugging the actual USB headset? I'm just asking cause it's just annoying having to reach behind my PC to unplug my headset just to use the speakers.
 

NoRéN

Member
Just wondering, is there a way to switch from a USB headset to speakers plugged without unplugging the actual USB headset? I'm just asking cause it's just annoying having to reach behind my PC to unplug my headset just to use the speakers.

Won't you pc do it automatically as long as the speakers are off?
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
Just wondering, is there a way to switch from a USB headset to speakers plugged without unplugging the actual USB headset? I'm just asking cause it's just annoying having to reach behind my PC to unplug my headset just to use the speakers.

If you right click on the little speaker in your system tray and choose "Playback Devices" you should be able to choose which output you want to use.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Got the 780Ti's installed. Haven't done any testing/benching yet:

13046614255_062298035b_b.jpg

13046961574_c342a756a2_b.jpg

13046625905_f7eb96ea66_b.jpg


I had a black EVGA SLI bridge, but can't find it so I had to dig and I found the Asus. That bugs me. Looking out for the Pro bridge to restock @ EVGA.

I used the Samsung Magician software and ran the benchmark on the Evo and the Intel SSD (OS).

zO63V4A.jpg


Is the Intel that bad?! It's on Sata 2 vs the Evo on Sata 3. I haven't done any optimization like it says in the capture. I plan to do a fresh W8.1 install on the Samsung soon anyway. The gap in performance between the two is pretty wide.

The evo is taped on the back of the case. Could have placed it in the HDD cage, but didn't have an adapter. Probably won't add much more to the FT02. Love the case but it is definitely cramped for what I have going on. A new one will probably be my next computer purchase.
Nicely done. Couldn't take not being part of the big boys eh?!

Here's my 840Pro benchmark after about a years use

capture8tq1d.png
 
I put a parts list together for my new livestream/gaming PC. Before I pull the trigger does anyone see any issues with this setup? I'll have to update the MOBO bios most likely, but that shouldn't be an issue.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/37amB

I will be using my current Corsair 850Watt power supply and my GTX 770 from my current setup.
 
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