Azzurri
Member
I'm still waiting on the GTX 790 or R9 295x TBH for a mITX build. But my 580 is still serving me well even at 1440p, but I can see in newer games I can't max settings w/o low FPS's.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I'm still waiting on the GTX 790 or R9 295x TBH for a mITX build. But my 580 is still serving me well even at 1440p, but I can see in newer games I can't max settings w/o low FPS's.
I'd avoid a dual AMD card like the plague. Crossfire profiles are a hope and a dream most of the time.
With two 290x's, you can at least fall back to one badass card, rather than a low clocked single GPU on a dual GPU PCB.
Azzurri
Member
I had a 4870x2 when it was released and I never had problems in games besides FF XIV 1.0
I'm not saying that you don't believe what you are saying is true, but it's easy to not notice problems when you don't have a point of reference.
My dual 5870 and dual 7970 setups were a nightmare.
Azzurri
Member
I know CFX has problems,I'm just saying I was lucky with mine. I even prefer nVidia and will probably go 790 anyways.
Forgot to mention I used those. Hasn't improved much.
Anyone else have any suggestions for programs to force settings in games?
NVIDIA Inspector.NoRéN;104882403 said:
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/nvidia_inspector_download.html
*edit* and RivaTuner
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/rtss_rivatuner_statistics_server_download.html
Yeah the 750 Ti is an insane card.
Also, Crucial M550 announced
Marginal optimization of the M500 basically, not a drive that competes on the premise of pure performance, but has a bevy of features like DevSleep, eDrive support, and robust power loss protection.
I'm the type to trade performance for safety in the case of data storage, so don't look here if you want the fastest speeds possible, this is really a safe option and is priced accordingly like the M500 was, I mean you can get a 1 TB M500 for like 430$ now, that's nice. And it's good ol' MLC, none of that Sammie TLC stuff ;p (even if that's still good, just saying hehe)
http://anandtech.com/show/7864/crucial-m550-review-128gb-256gb-512gb-and-1tb-models-tested
Do you think the M500 is still a viable option? I've been considering snapping the Amazon UK deal since someone posted it here yesterday. Is the Samsing EVO worth the extra 20£?
Definitely not worth extra money. SSD fast is SSD fast, unless you have a specific application, like database stuff, that would benefit from increased speed.
I've only ever used programs like that to set a FPS limit on games that were running at 300+, so my knowledge is pretty limited. I do know those are the two that people use though.NoRéN;104883468 said:
Yup. People will have their preferences and will recommend what they know. But, we're at a point where SSDs are reliable. it's hard to go wrong. Samsung, Crucial, Toshiba Q series, Kingstong, Sandisk, all good. Get what you can afford and as big a size as you can.
I've only ever used programs like that to set a FPS limit on games that were running at 300+, so my knowledge is pretty limited. I do know those are the two that people use though.
Jesus fuck!
Fuck!
Thanks for the recommendation. Hopefully it fixes these issues with FIFA 13.
oh, ok. That's explains F.E.A.R.'s 800fps benchmark.
Some people, including myself, dont like vsync as it can cause some input lag.
So the solution for me was to just cap the fps to 60, and in game they hover between 59-60, so sometimes there is a little tearing, but in games that i cannot have tearing i just enable vsync in game or as a game profile. This way you dont need to have vsync all the time. EVGA precision is pretty cool as it lets you display all sorts of GPU info as an overlay, like clocks, fan speed, voltages, and fps. And like youve experienced sometimes vsync doesnt work at intros, so the fps cap kicks in there.
How much of a role do motherboards play into overclocking a GPU? I finally got my MSI R9 290 and have played around with the overclocking some and I can't seem to get a stable OC anything higher than 1050/1350 (Stock is 947/1250).
I have this motherboard, which is only a PCIe 2.0 x16. I've looked at other OC guides and people seem to have no problem at all hitting 1100/1400. I know cards vary when it comes to OCing, but I feel that my card is way on the low end and I think it may be because of my motherboard.
I have this motherboard, which is only a PCIe 2.0 x16. I've looked at other OC guides and people seem to have no problem at all hitting 1100/1400. I know cards vary when it comes to OCing, but I feel that my card is way on the low end and I think it may be because of my motherboard.
Motherboards have hardly any impact on OC'n GPUs. All the power comes from the PSU and is processed via components on the GPU. Some power is delivered from the PCIE port (~70W max) so is not very crucial, and is probably conditioned on board the GPU. The rest is just signals to the CPU from the GPU via the PCIE lanes, which shouldnt impact its stability. Only power delivery would. Sounds like it could just be an average GPU.
phxxBullet
Banned
Wow that's awesome. Thanks alot everyone.
But I got 3 questions left:
1) If it's really my GPU that broke, I'll get a GTX 750ti. But which one? Any suggestions? Are there any new editions coming in the next 3-4 weeks worth waiting for?
2) I read something about ~50Watts. So my PSU (CoolerMaster Silent Pro M 500Watt) should easily handle it and allow some light OCing?
3) I'm not up-to-date at all with the current hardware around. But i heard something about PCI 3.0 connectors on mainboards. I got an old MSI 785GM-E65 mainboard. Will it run the GTX750ti without any problems?
thx for your help
1) Usually people decide which one via the RMA/Warranty and the Cooling requirements (blower/aftermarket). Im not sure what brand is best for RMA in USA, so cant help there. As for cooling, it doesnt matter, the card uses such little power, anything will work and be quiet.
2) Yes that PSU will easily run the 750Ti
3) Its backwards compatible to PCIE 2.0, so as long as your board has that itll be fine. Even a PCIE 2.0 x8 will not be saturated by a 750Ti.
phxxBullet
Banned
1) Oh okay, my only concern was about the cooling. But yeah I didn't think about the fact that 50watts can't make it burn like the old GTX480s haha
2) Perfect
3) Ah, good to know. Seems like I need to spend some time getting to know whats up in 2014 haha
Thanks alot
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Yes. Don't overvolt though, I know AMD cards sometimes don't have a voltage limit so you might be tempted when overclocking, but for your PSU's sake... don't overvolt.
Just make sure your PSU has a single PCIE 6-pin connector free.
well if i buy it i can get a new ps later just so worried bout my ps not being +80 and since it say required in the specs
NP i have one free as soon as i take my 5750 out
Edit:
yay bought and signed up for primer just in case saved 40 dollars if it works lol
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Wait, is it this model:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009Q56N6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
?
If it is, then it is pretty much trash and you should upgrade it. If you do end up buying the 265 you can go into the driver panel and limit power consumption just to be safe.
yep.. I have time to cancel the order if need be
got ya
Going you use premier to CMA. Just in case i need to return if it wont work
Yeah, when I say "Vsync", I actually mean Nvidia's "Adaptive Vsync", which is just really a framerate cap where it forgets about the sync if the framerate drops, so it doesn't jump between 60 and 30 all the time. I really couldn't go back to the stuttering mess that is proper Vsync now.
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
There should be an option under AMD Overdrive called "Power Limit settings"
Increasing this above 0% will allow the GPU to draw as much power as it needs if it needs it beyond its limit. It does the opposite when you turn it below 0%. The R7 265 has a limit at 150w, but typically draws around 110w while gaming.
Lowering it by 20% will set the limit at 120w which probably wont change anything because the card doesn't typically use that much while gaming but will prevent it from going over it for whatever reason. You can lower it more if you like I think. My R9 290 goes as low as -50%
Word of warning though, don't use this panel for overclocking, it sucks and causes only issues.
If you're curious about your power supply and what it can handle, read this:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermaltake-Purepower-430W-NP-Power-Supply-Review/332/1
This actually seems like a really bad idea waiting to happen, as your PSU has a single 12v rail @ 18 amps lol
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
I would upgrade the PSU anyway. It's suspect imo.
I will it was a hand me down stop gap
So I finally got around to overclocking my i5-2500k and had a question as far as adjusting voltage. My motherboard (Asus P8Z77-V LK) only has two options for altering CPU voltage; manual and offset. My understanding is that manual means my CPU will run at a fixed voltage, regardless of the clock speed my CPU runs at (i.e. it'll run at the same voltage if my CPU is running at 1.6MHz or 4.5MHz). In contrast, offset allows the CPU to draw lower voltages at lower clock speeds/higher voltages at higher clock speeds (i.e. 1.0V at 1.6MHz and 1.28V at 4.5MHz). I've toyed around with both settings and can't decide which to choose:
1. Use manual and set voltage to 1.25V. Temps are 65C-70C under full load.
2. Use offset where under full load, my voltage is around 1.38V. Temps are 68C-75C under full load.
Are those temps okay? Is there any reason I should use one setting over the other?
1. Use manual and set voltage to 1.25V. Temps are 65C-70C under full load.
2. Use offset where under full load, my voltage is around 1.38V. Temps are 68C-75C under full load.
Are those temps okay? Is there any reason I should use one setting over the other?
Those temps are fine under full load. I use manual myself with my 2600k.
Cool, just wasn't sure how big a deal minimizing voltage was. I know you wanna shoot for less but wasn't sure if one setting was better than the other. I'll stick to manual then, thanks!
The better option is offset. If it can run at 1.25V with manual and you get 1.38 with offset, it means your offset number is too high. If you are using offset + number, go offset - number. Keep on increasing the number and test until you get 1.25V under load.
Gah maybe I did something strange but I wasn't able to get anywhere near 1.25V when doing offset. I'll give it another shot though.
There are more than one setting that can increase CPU voltage. For example, depending how high you set, Load Line Calibration adds certain amount. If you can't reach 1.25V with just offset + or - number, select a lower LLC setting then re-adjust with offset.
Worked like a charm! Working on slowly dropping voltage now. Is there an ideal setting for LLC? Or is it just good enough to select whatever setting and work from there?
Generally, with overclocking, the less component / setting you need to overclock/stress, the better it would be. If you can LLC at lowest setting (regular / off) and be stable, it would be best. If you can't, keep on upping until you reach the voltage you desire.
The offset method may take 0.02v more than manual, this is to stabilise during transition states. But not 1.25->1.38v. Your offset value will have a feild above it normally "+" or "-". Start with + and 0v offset. Dont use Auto. Go from there to bring the load voltage (using Prime95 to test and CPUz to measure), towards 1.25v, and as said before this may need a negative offset.
As for LLC, more extreme overclocks tend to start with Medium-High LLC. For you Regular or Auto will be fine. Doesnt matter too much with lower overclocks using offset Voltage.
PrivateWHudson
Member
So this may be a bit out of spec for you guys, but can you give me a once over for this build that I'm doing for my Aunt? My mission is to allow her to surf the interwebs and send emails for at least the next 10 years. I'm hoping to get away with onboard video (is such a thing possible?). With roughly an $800 budget, that would leave me room for some unexpected costs...Win7, unless I missed something.
Intel Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Boxed Processor - 160
Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H LGA 1150 mATX Intel Motherboad - 80
EVGA 500B 500 Watt ATX Power Supply - 50
Kingston HyperX blu 8GB DDR3-1333 PC3-10600) CL9 D - 80
Samsung SH-224DB24x SATA Internal DVD Burner - OEM - 17
BitFenix Prodigy M Black mATX Case - 100
ASUS 21.5" Widescreen LED Monitor - 150
Total - 675
Intel Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Boxed Processor - 160
Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H LGA 1150 mATX Intel Motherboad - 80
EVGA 500B 500 Watt ATX Power Supply - 50
Kingston HyperX blu 8GB DDR3-1333 PC3-10600) CL9 D - 80
Samsung SH-224DB24x SATA Internal DVD Burner - OEM - 17
BitFenix Prodigy M Black mATX Case - 100
ASUS 21.5" Widescreen LED Monitor - 150
Total - 675
Mr. Wonderful
Member
Because new SSDs are coming.
Id get a good 350W PSU (Antec/Corsair/Seasonic/Enermax/Be Quiet).
Why not make it a Mini ITX Machine (like Asus H81I-Plus board)? And Fractual design Node 304 for the ITX case.
People still use DVD drives?
PrivateWHudson
Member
I'll check the Mini's, I was just worried that if need be, I wouldn't be have many upgrade paths when it eventually gets outdated. Hey, the DVD is an upgrade from her current CD drive. My uncle will want to install his golf and poker games that he has on CD.
I think you forgot about the hard drive? Otherwise looks good. Can def get away with on board video.
If she's just surfing the web and the odd email get her an SSD.
Save on the PSU too, no need for the 500B
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usa...2331&vpn=VP450&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1230
Save on the PSU too, no need for the 500B
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usa...2331&vpn=VP450&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1230
Go bigger than Mini ITX if you want lots of PCIE expansion, such as wireless cards (nice ITX boards have onboard wireless) or SLI/Xfire which i very much doubt she'll need. Or maybe TV Tuner or Sound card, again not really going to want that for browsing.
The Node 304 doesnt support a DVD Drive, but you could go for the regular Prodigy.
Also in 10 years youll want to throw it in the bin lol.
PrivateWHudson
Member
Crap, I added it to my cart at one point. I had a WD Blue 1TB in mind, but maybe I will go with SSD...hmm.
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