industrian
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Wait for Computex.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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Wait for Computex.
I had this problem with my first loop about 10 years ago. It turned out that the anti-algae additive I put in didn't actually do shit, and when I found out it got so bet that I ended up throwing everything away. So when I built my current loop I decided to look into different additives a bit more, and after some internet detective work I found that the only reliable options (that are commonly sold) are: Mayhem's biocide, Pt Nuke and a silver coil.
In the end I went with a silver coil and the water is still as clear as it was when I last flushed it 4 months ago.
Thanks for the advice and I am making a few changes after considering your suggestions.
- Swapping Antec P280 for Fractal Define R4 (Black Pearl, windowless) - I've looked into the R4 several times, and the smaller size and white accents turned me off repeatedly. However, I do like the better fit of components inside and the 140mm fan slots are very attractive in terms of effective cooling vs noise.
- Swapping Noctua NH-U14S for Noctua NH-D14 - It should work fine with the memory modules I've picked and it may be massive, but all my research suggests it's the best heatsink/fan cooler you can buy.
- Keeping Corsair RM750 - The price difference between the 750W and 650W is negligible, regardless of whether or not I need 750W. I do prefer the RM series for silence and, if I recall correctly, Seasonic is the OEM for Corsair's power supplies.
- If I go with the R4, I intend to replace the fans and PCI slot covers with black alternatives. I absolutely do not like the white accents inside of an otherwise all black case; I suppose I'll just have to accept the white HDD cages.
The RM750 isn't made by Seasonic but by Chicony. It's a decent PSU, but it uses cheap capacitors (Ltec) so I'd recommend the G-series over it.
What is the difference between Seasonic's G and X series power supplies?
EDIT: Looks like G is semi-modular and X is full modular, as well X series has the hybrid fan control. I think I'll substitute the Seasonic X650 for the Corsair RM750. Thanks for the clarification on the OEM!
Yep, only problem is I have no PC in the meantime so waiting is just that much harder. Waiting for the high-end Maxwells is also going to be a pain.
Does anyone have any opinion on the Ezio Foris Fg2421? My old monitor got scratched while moving it, so I'm thinking of upgrading.
The few reviews there are seem to be pretty good!
The few reviews there are seem to be pretty good!
http://m.neogaf.com/showthread.php?t=720113
Skim through that thread and google the blur busters review
Skim through that thread and google the blur busters review
Yeah I had silver coil before and worked great but I have nickel and copper in the same loop and it eroded the nickel like no tomorrow.
Meh, I doubt anyone would be interested in that thing. It's not like the original post of this thread recommends it or anything.
If you look in the appropriate thread, you'll find many reviews/comments, mine included. Worst thing is Eizo left out proper VESA attachment. I also see quite prominent crosshatching on mine. Rest of the image quality is fantastic. Ugly gamer styling at the back, but very clean front, all lights can be turned off too.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Soo umm today the ON/OFF flipswitch of my PSU broke o.o I can't flip it to OFF anymore as it automatically jumps back to ON. Is this any cause for concern for the rest of the PSU's functionality? It's a old BeQuiet! Straight Power Dual Rail 550w PSU from 2007 and it works fine still as I can see but I thought it would be better to ask before just in case.
It powers the following:
3 Intermal HDDs
1 DVD Drive
2 additional fans
3 non-self powered USB devices (iPhone, Vita, DualShock 3/4)
2 RAM modules @ 2133mhz
i5 3570k @ 3.7ghz
Club3D 7970 Royal Queen at 1100mhz core clock with stock voltage
SoundBlaster X-Fi XtremeGamer
If I should get a new one which would be good without being too expensive? I don't plan to go much over these specs and SLI/Crossfire I will also never do. Thanks in advance!
It powers the following:
3 Intermal HDDs
1 DVD Drive
2 additional fans
3 non-self powered USB devices (iPhone, Vita, DualShock 3/4)
2 RAM modules @ 2133mhz
i5 3570k @ 3.7ghz
Club3D 7970 Royal Queen at 1100mhz core clock with stock voltage
SoundBlaster X-Fi XtremeGamer
If I should get a new one which would be good without being too expensive? I don't plan to go much over these specs and SLI/Crossfire I will also never do. Thanks in advance!
No i wouldnt change your PSU. Worst case the PSU is always ON, its not like its always OFF, or randomly switches OFF.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Hmm alright then, I was just worried that this mechanical failure might indicate that something else might break soon though I guess it's only a spring that broke? But you're right, I just have to resist my habit now to try and turn the switch off whenever I turn the PC off
I thought you weren't supposed to mix metals? I mean you can...but it's not suggested?
You're not but you can. Copper and silver have low reactivity and copper and nickel have low reactivity however nickel and silver have high reactivity which causes galvanization (rust) in the nickel. So you can do nickel and copper with biocide or full copper with silver coil. I purchased my parts before understanding all this. Nobody makes a nickel plated radiator so pretty much full copper is the way to go. Or gold plate everything =P
Basically the farther apart on this series to more likely to galvanize, its more complicated than that but thats as far as I know. Maybe someone better qualified can explain it better?
Gotcha.
I'm using your experience and that algae pic that makes me itch as a learning experience for myself
Gotcha.
I'm using your experience and that algae pic that makes me itch as a learning experience
Based on mkenyon said and my experience, full copper + mayhems biocide. Great thing about copper is you can just soak it in vinegar and that will make it shiny, clean and new again.
Latentpsychopath
Neo Member
I'm looking at picking up an EVGA GTX 780.
There seems to be a Superclocked version and a normal, stock one.
The Superclocked version is 20$ more. Can I just manually overclock the factory card to the same levels as the Superclocked version, without having to dish out the extra bill?
Thanks.
There seems to be a Superclocked version and a normal, stock one.
The Superclocked version is 20$ more. Can I just manually overclock the factory card to the same levels as the Superclocked version, without having to dish out the extra bill?
Thanks.
Noted. Seems like it's going to be a bitch to undo everything going by your previous pics. That's one of the things I dread about going water. That seems like an all day thing. Maybe longer. But I guess it only needs to be done every 6 months or so.
Yes.
Yes you can. The SC, FTW and Classified levels are marked due to a binning process that EVGA does. Basically they are guaranteeing a certain performance level. Thats not to say that the regular won't perform as well as the SC version.
Nickel, copper and zinc (used in brass) are adjacent in the periodic table. There should be almost no reaction between them in distilled or deionised water. Silver is not so similar. I chose to use deionised water and a biocide, I have nickel, copper and some brass in my loop.
It's been built for 9 months now, so I haven't stripped it all down yet, but I see no evidence of corrosion or reduced performance so far.
Edit: beaten
I've got a fan setup question for all the pros here. Right now I have 2 120mm fans in the front as intake, a bottom Cougar Vortex HDB 120mm as intake, and a 120mm back exhaust. I also installed 2 more Cougar Vortex HDB 120mm fans on top, not realizing it, I put them as intake as well.
On the i7 3770k I have a Hyper EVO 212. Should I flip those top fans around to be exhaust or should I keep them as intake?
The case is a Rosewill R5 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147161
edit: Forgot to mention, I recently updated my PSU to the SeaSonic 650w and damn am I impressed with it.
On the i7 3770k I have a Hyper EVO 212. Should I flip those top fans around to be exhaust or should I keep them as intake?
The case is a Rosewill R5 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147161
edit: Forgot to mention, I recently updated my PSU to the SeaSonic 650w and damn am I impressed with it.
AwakenedCloud
Member
GAF, I need some help. The first time I turned on my new PC it was fine, but aside from the 1st startup I have to go to the motherboard's HDMI port to get and video output. I'm using a R9 280x. It's fans are spinning, so I know it's getting power, but I can't figure out how to get video output from it. I opened up the case and made sure it's all the way in the PCI-E slot as well.
DashReindeer
Lead Community Manager, Outpost Games
So I finally built my first PC, and it is super beefy for now at least. The problem is, now that I have the PC, there aren't any games I want to play that take advantage of it! What would you all recommend I play to get a feel for how powerful my machine really is? My build looks like:
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Go into the BIOS and set it to PCI video out not IGP. What motherboard do you have? I can go look up the exact steps for you
Two more screens =)
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
http://www.evga.com/articles/00830/
Getting closer to that 8gb GDDR5 mark so we can finally have a PC as fast as the PS4. Sony's days are numbered.
Getting closer to that 8gb GDDR5 mark so we can finally have a PC as fast as the PS4. Sony's days are numbered.
TalentBurke
Member
I plan on building my first PC with the same parts. How much did this cost you?
Agreed.
Or you could go used on the CPU front and pick up a 3570K for example and get a Z77 mobo for £100.
Just don't go AMD on the CPU front.
Any benchmark that measures by frame time and frame time variance will show that AMD's perceived performance is worse. AMD's "8 cores" aren't 8 cores, more like hyper threaded 4 cores. They have dual issue pipeline on the execute units but shared registers and instruction pipeline. Even an i3 lays waste to the PS4 so the comparison is not even valid.
mkenyon please post your obligatory charts you have bookmarked cause you have to post them every page
To get you started
DashReindeer
Lead Community Manager, Outpost Games
I wussed out a little and bought everything on amazon so that I didn't have to deal with setting up accounts at a whole bunch of different stores. All told, it cost me about $2,300 after taxes (but including a new keyboard, monitor, and mouse and some miscellaneous parts I didn't list above). I'm sure you could shave $100-200 off that price by shopping around for parts, but I'm just not that thrifty.
It's also nice to have everything on one bill and delivered mostly around the same time. For my build I ordered from at least a dozen retailers because canada sucks.
DashReindeer
Lead Community Manager, Outpost Games
Yeah, I also know that Amazon has awesome customer support for Prime members, so if something was damaged (which my case was slightly), then it wouldn't have been so hard to get them to do something about it.
AwakenedCloud
Member
I tried that earlier but that wasn't the issue. I fixed it either from disabling the generic motherboard display adapter in device settings or tightening the PCI Cords from the PSU. It looks like everything is good to go.
Now it's time to see if I'm brave enough to try any of this overclocking business. Would anyone recommend using a program to do it? I used AMD overDrive on my last PC, but didn't mess with settings too much.
Crimsonsky
Member
I honestly recommend closed loop. The h100i is a beast as far as cooling is concerned. A custom water loop like the RASA or the one from XSPC might get you 10% lower temps if you are lucky for double to triple the cost and with at least double the maintenance. Keep the inside of the case clean with some compressed air or an electric duster and you're good to go.
The only thing you have to worry about then is your GPU, just buy a good aftermarket one and you're fine. People who spend 300 bucks on a 760 and then 150-200 to cool it are wasting their time. Just buy the max GPU you can with your budget and let it ride. Nothing else really needs to be cooled, a case can be made for memory but the gains you see from it are so small it doesn't matter.
The CPU in the PS4 is another league entirely. It's a CPU made for tablets and netbooks.
As for AMD getting trounced, see what Smokey has posted plus
Read this too http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=512976
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
I actually meant red mod, or the nzxt bracket to hold a cpu cooler on a GPU.
The Weeknd
Banned
Not sure if this build is legit or not, anything I can improve on?
Budget is $800.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3epNR
Budget is $800.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3epNR
I would like to build a PC for the living room (so kind of steam box). Important: small and quiet, but as powerful as possible.
The case I want to use: the upcoming Silverstone RVZ01. The dimensions would fit perfectly - but if you have other suggestions for cases with similar dimensions that are already available, pls go ahead. Does a graphic card fits in the case beside the APU? Than I could use the dual graphic feature.
What I planned so far (based on the suggestions in the 2nd post):
Does that make sense so far, or would you recommend using a CPU+GPU instead of an APU with the dual graphic function?
The mainboard is still missing, because I can´t choose it in the configurator.
The questionnaire:
The case I want to use: the upcoming Silverstone RVZ01. The dimensions would fit perfectly - but if you have other suggestions for cases with similar dimensions that are already available, pls go ahead. Does a graphic card fits in the case beside the APU? Than I could use the dual graphic feature.
What I planned so far (based on the suggestions in the 2nd post):
Does that make sense so far, or would you recommend using a CPU+GPU instead of an APU with the dual graphic function?
The mainboard is still missing, because I can´t choose it in the configurator.
The questionnaire:
- Your Current Specs: Doesn`t matter, just have an old notebook that is not really capable for gaming
- Budget: ~ 1000 €
- Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Light Gaming: 3, Gaming: 3, Emulation: 1 (PS2/Wii), Video Editing: 2, Streaming games in HD: 2, 3D/Model work: 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback): 5. - Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Like stated above, I want to use it mainly in the living room connected to my TV (kind of a steam box).
Are you going to upgrade later? If necessary, yes.
Are you buying a new monitor? No, I am using my TV (55"). - List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?
60fps would be fine, but as I am used to console gaming I guess I wouldn´t have problems with 30fps. Games: more indie games and RTS (games that can´t be played well on consoles, like Civ, Rome: Total War etc..) - Looking to reuse any parts?: No.
- When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? As soon as possible, but if some interesting tech will come up soon, I can wait.
- Will you be overclocking?: No.
The CPU in the PS4 is another league entirely. It's a CPU made for tablets and netbooks.
As for AMD getting trounced, see what Smokey has posted plus
Read this too http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=512976
Hmm. But I am paying at mimumum a £50 premium for a comparable intel CPU. Is it worth it?
Yes, although you don't have to go for a K CPU. £180 can still get you an Intel i5 just no overclocking option.
Do you need the DVD drive? If it's just to install Windows install it via USB.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi B85S3+ Ver. 6.x Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($319.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: V7 KC0D1-5N6 Wired Standard Keyboard ($7.61 @ Amazon)
Mouse: V7 M30P10-7N Wired Optical Mouse ($4.45 @ Mwave)
Total: $763.98
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-22 14:41 EDT-0400)
Or if you were happy to drop to a 760 there is this which can overclock on the CPU side and is a better long term rig imo
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87W ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($98.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($239.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $795.90
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-22 14:45 EDT-0400)
Just get the i5-4440 (which is comparable to the i5-3470 in those charts) and a motherboard:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor (£128.46 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus B85M-G Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£55.51 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £183.97
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-22 18:50 GMT+0000)
£180 and stonking performance to boot!
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