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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Dries
Member
I also sometimes get this message. My stability is fine though in day to day use. I'm assuming it's just is a bug on my mobo. Does your PC eventually boot though? And does this happen every single time?
PS. hope you're running 4.1 Ghz though
I found out that the motherboard in my computer is a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H.
It doesn't seem like it have a CIR port but I'm no techy, so I'm not sure.
I also sometimes get this message. My stability is fine though in day to day use. I'm assuming it's just is a bug on my mobo. Does your PC eventually boot though? And does this happen every single time?
PS. hope you're running 4.1 Ghz though
It was a bad stick of corsair vengeance ram. Off to Frys or micro center tomorrow to buy a new stick.
Nostremitus
Member
I was half joking, but nice. Did you buy the 280X back when the price was being artificially inflated by retailers?
My best guess would be both the modem and wireless router are on the same channel and since they are sitting on top of one another, it's causing a lot of interference.
Do you need the router? If the modem has a built in wireless router then you can just use that?
There should be a way to turn off the wireless router in the modem if that's the route you want to go. I'd look at doing that. At the very least you're going to need to change the channel on one or the other device.
As far as which device to forward the ports, which one are you connecting to? Each should have it's own SSID (basically a name) that you are connecting to. The device that you are connecting to is the one that needs to forward the ports.
If it were me, I would find a way to disable the wireless router on the modem and use the stand alone router as your device. From there, make sure it's on a non-congested wireless channel and forward the correct ports on the stand alone router.
Alternatively you can do the exact same thing the other way. Drop the stand alone router and just use the wireless router on the modem.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458496
There's a lot of great options out there. This thread might be a help.
not sure if this is the right place to ask, but any recommendations for budget >24" monitors? Have a basic AOC 23" at the moment which is fine (2xHDMI + VGA which is what I need), but curious about something bigger (possibly keeping the 23" as a second monitor)
ebuyer has the Acer K272HLbid for £130 which seems a good price - has HDMI, DVI (HDCP compatible) and VGA so connectivity is ok.
ebuyer has the Acer K272HLbid for £130 which seems a good price - has HDMI, DVI (HDCP compatible) and VGA so connectivity is ok.
You're also not great at embedding them Cola
Does it not work? Works on my screen
Maybe it's my internet here at work. When I quote you I can see the URL and open it that way.
We need to talk about cable management...
Seriously everything was fine until the psu, I had zipties and it was neat and tidy and then the psu gets put in and i cry.
Im ok
Everything works!
Same for me.
I hear you... I thought the hardest part is done, all that's left is just hooking up a few cables. Man was I wrong.
I'm still planning to re-do mine, but I'm just so glad it works, I don't want to mess with it.
Not really worth doing on the stock cooler.
flyinpiranha
Member
Newegg has the 780 OC for $398.00 (US) (slickdeals link)
One of the best prices I've seen that card for. If I didn't have an R9 290 OC I'd jump on that in a heartbeat.
But you never know what prices are going to be at in a few weeks with new cards dropping.
One of the best prices I've seen that card for. If I didn't have an R9 290 OC I'd jump on that in a heartbeat.
But you never know what prices are going to be at in a few weeks with new cards dropping.
The PC I built with the help of GAF (Specifically Kharma45)
Im not good at pics, but here we go
Oh, you must be on the new mini-mini-mini-mini-mini ITX platform because your computer is so tiny I can't see it in that picture you posted.
jk, looks a little messy but you should be proud!
Looks to me like the memory sticks are not in the correct slots. Check the manual for your motherboard.The PC I built with the help of GAF (Specifically Kharma45)
Im not good at pics, but here we go
Good catch.
On the panels I put them in slots 1 and 2
Does it matter? Computer tells me its installed.
It does matter because it won't be running in dual channel mode which means they'll essentially be at half speed. Usually it's slots 1 and 3 or 2 and 4.
Check the manual
Just checked and I got it right without knowing, says to put them in DDR3_1 and DDR3_2
Victory for ignorance!
Hmm I'm gonna see if I can find anything on Amazon.
Alethebeer
Member
Guys, gamingwise, should i install Windows 8.1 in my main build (all games) and windows 7 in my alt build (just World of Warcraft)? Does it change something?
I use 8.1, and I feel like I've had less trouble on it than I did when using Windows 7. 8.1 certainly hasn't made things worse.
deadcelledo
Member
anyone from Puerto Rico here? if so where do you buy parts online? shipping cost is too high :/
Yep, G4me Zero. The G4me Ones are open like the 363Ds, Zeros are closed.
Whatever you want. Doesn't really matter either way.
Just looked up what delid is and... hell no I am not doing that. Not with my shaky hands.
Alethebeer
Member
Thanks guys :3. Another question. When i install the OS and i manage drives and partitions, i always think i'm messing up something. Last time i was managing partitions on a single 1TB hard disk. I created a 100gb partition for OS+programs but also popped an unallocated roughly 300/400Mb space undeleteable. So i had 3 partitions: [1TB-100gb-300mb] + [100GB] + [300mb]. Hope i recall correctly the numbers etc. I think it is kind of weird, don't you?
What does it mean being closed or open? Is it the headphones on the headset that can be replaced if it's open?
Hammer and Vice method is better. I highly advise not using the blade as it is way to easy to nick the PCB and render it useless.
This method shows how resilient CPUs are, they dont just break.
Closed or open is when you are talking about the ear cups.
Open have like a screen door on the cups that let air in and out. Open headphones are usually categorized as having better soundstage which means sounds can have a little more distance and clarity to your ears. They generally have better sound fidelity as well. However, they leak meaning you can hear outside sounds and the sounds from your headphones can be heard outside of the headphones. And generally they have worse bass.
An example of an open pair:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3QD94O/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Note the grating on the ear cups
Closed are designed to create a seal around your ears and not let the air in and out like open. Generally they have better bass and very good sound isolation. Most often they have worse sound fidelity but everything I've said so far is speaking in generalizations. Different headphones will have different strengths and weaknesses despite being open or closed. For example the X1s I linked above are a little bassier than more open headphones.
Here's an example of a closed pair:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZZNXOK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Note the hard plastic shell for the cups. They're designed to prevent sound leakage.
Hmmm, now I'm not sure which headphones to get anymore then heh.
It's said the Sennheiser D363 is a very good pair, but I'm not sure I would like outside noise to be heard. I also love bass in my games.
I will be living in a small 46m2 apartment this coming month, so if the HDTV and surround speakers are going, I'll probably hear that when I game PC.
It's said the Sennheiser D363 is a very good pair, but I'm not sure I would like outside noise to be heard. I also love bass in my games.
I will be living in a small 46m2 apartment this coming month, so if the HDTV and surround speakers are going, I'll probably hear that when I game PC.
Yeah, check out the G4me Zeros then.
That's even more expensive.
I might have to go with the D363 then.
Here, the Sennheiser 363D is £180 and if I want to import the g4me zero it'll be more than £210.
Isn't it possible to use the Apple remote?
You can but its not a great way to do it since all keys are translated by software like EventGhost. And this isnt 100% reliable setup imo. Also not sure about wake from sleep here.
http://forum.xbmc.org/showthread.php?tid=73947
I rather use a Microsoft IR Receiver with RC6 remote as it is plug & play, no config whatsoever.
Unfortunately yes but I also got a $100 mail in rebate. Never doing that again, just a waste of time and a pain in the ass.
Should I get something like this?
It doesn't need to be able to wake my computer or put it to sleep. I just need it to navigate my movie library in Plex.
Yeah that will work, decent remote, got one myself.
Woffls
Member
Oh my days, what a carry on. Last weekend I ordered some X99 components ready to get here by this weekend/Monday, but having found out about the memory shortage I just cancelled all of it.
Now I've got an email from Amazon saying that the memory will be with me on Monday, but I've got no other components, and the prices have since gone up as well!
... okay it's been much more stressful than I made it sound. Anyway, I was hoping to be rid of all this lark for a few weeks, and I'm pretty bored of it now so I think I'll just buy what I want for whatever cost and not faff about looking to save a fiver on a £300 CPU :\
Now I've got an email from Amazon saying that the memory will be with me on Monday, but I've got no other components, and the prices have since gone up as well!
... okay it's been much more stressful than I made it sound. Anyway, I was hoping to be rid of all this lark for a few weeks, and I'm pretty bored of it now so I think I'll just buy what I want for whatever cost and not faff about looking to save a fiver on a £300 CPU :\
So I've culled a bunch of parts from various lab boxes and only need the mobo and video card. How does this look?
HAVE
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($126.45 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($39.94 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
NEED
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($132.99 @ Mwave)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 4GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card ($386.40 @ Newegg)
I'm thinking of picking up the motherboard now since there is a $20 rebate and picking up a video card in a month or so when we see how prices look.
Is my CPU adequate for gaming?
HAVE
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($126.45 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($39.94 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
NEED
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($132.99 @ Mwave)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 4GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card ($386.40 @ Newegg)
I'm thinking of picking up the motherboard now since there is a $20 rebate and picking up a video card in a month or so when we see how prices look.
Is my CPU adequate for gaming?
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