Excellent, cheers.
I expect the wiring to be poor as it's not been done since it was built in the 80's at a guess.
It all works though...!
Just wanting better than wireless performance
I've had a lot of trouble getting TVs to pass the correct signal in the past. ARC will sometimes recognize the TV as a stereo device and therefore not pass a 5 channel sound and it will never pass lossless sound. Best setup is always to have your sound source going into the receiver and pass the video from the receiver to the TV. ARC is handy for the oddball netflix through your smart TV or whatever but the receiver should be the first in the chain almost always. The only downside is the potential for lip sync issues - i.e. the TV does too much processing and the image happens a noticeable time after the sound does. However, usually receivers have settings for lip sync delay that can put it back in sync.
Thank you for your build suggestions, much appreciated. I think I'd like to have Windows, is this a problem? (not sure what ATX is, sorry to sound like a complete noob). As mentioned above I just need the minimum set-up for Elite Dangerous to run as good as possible within my budget. Future proofing isn't that important.
ATX is normal sized. mATX is smaller, and for reference mITX is smallest.
What I meant about Windows is are you able to acquire it other ways? Like through education if you're at uni. It can be free for a lot of people, or myself who still has my old .ac.uk email address I can get Windows for £9 through it.
If I can offer further advice, I recommend you pick up adapters that have a pass-through power point on them. They cost more, but there's good reason.
It's recommended that if you use a powerline adapter in a dual wall socket, that you do not plug anything into the second socket. Doing so can add noise/interference to the line and make performance worse. If you have a pass-through point on the adapter, then you don't lose the use of the other socket.
You shouldn't use them in a 4-gang or power extender block either for the same reason.
Built a new cookie-cutter rig about a month ago. i5 4690K, 280X, Windows 8, etc.
I play everything at 1080P and the rig crushes it no problem.
Updated Catalyst and now my FPS has gone to shit (BL2 went from 60+ to 10-15~).
Ran a system restore to before I installed the Catalyst. Still runs like shit.
Is the next step uninstalling the current drivers and installing older ones? Any other suggestions?
Also I kind of just want to sell the 280x and buy a 770 or something. I've dealt with AMD's shitty drivers for at least 10 years. I'm too old for this shit.
Built a new cookie-cutter rig about a month ago. i5 4690K, 280X, Windows 8, etc.
I play everything at 1080P and the rig crushes it no problem.
Updated Catalyst and now my FPS has gone to shit (BL2 went from 60+ to 10-15~).
Ran a system restore to before I installed the Catalyst. Still runs like shit.
Is the next step uninstalling the current drivers and installing older ones? Any other suggestions?
Also I kind of just want to sell the 280x and buy a 770 or something. I've dealt with AMD's shitty drivers for at least 10 years. I'm too old for this shit.
What drivers are you using? I've ran a 7950 (aka 280), 290, and now 295X2 over the last few years with no issues. I specifically played BL2 on my 7950 trouble free.
System restore is a bad idea, always a last resort.
What you should do is download Display Driver Uninstaller. Run this, itll prompt to go into Safe Mode. Clean the drivers, install the version that was working for you previously on reboot.
I just want to ask a very naive answer, "is this a good time to build a pc?"
Of course, the answer is always "No shit."
But I'm concerned if there's a new standard coming out I should wait for, like when I waited for PCI Express and DDR2 Ram (Yes, it was that long since I made a new rig)
I just want to ask a very naive answer, "is this a good time to build a pc?"
Of course, the answer is always "No shit."
But I'm concerned if there's a new standard coming out I should wait for, like when I waited for PCI Express and DDR2 Ram (Yes, it was that long since I made a new rig)
I have a 2500 non-K
Is it time?
Most of the new standards are already available, but if you're asking when they will be somewhat common and more importantly affordable, probably not until late 2015.
Broadwell is expected to be a slightly faster Haswell. The next big iteration in CPUs is supposed to be Skylake and people are at least hoping it will be 8 core and support DDR4. Of course the desktop form factor seems to be released last these days so who knows if it even hits shelves in 2015.
DDR4 is out now, but the motherboards are pricey and it isn't showing huge improvements over DDR3.
20nm GPUs probably hit in the spring, but no one knows how much faster than the current crop they will be. The next big hurdle in graphics is supposed to be Pascal which is dated for 2016.
M.2 Sata is out now as well, but expensive and again, not all that much of an improvement for gaming purposes.
The answer to these questions is always based on a matrix of your current amount of money you are willing to spend and your happiness with your current gaming PC setup.
I think it is a great time to build a gaming PC. There are so many great games available and game prices are fantastic.
Couchaddict, I guess it depends on what GPU you have and how that is serving you...? If you are still using the GPU you got at the same time as the 2500....then that may be the best place you could go for an upgrade...
I'm fairly happy but I am not a big AAA game player so that as always extended life.
Oh yeah, I'm still rocking out a MSI 460 Twin Froz.
Like everybody else I am falling head over heels over the 970. Some of my friends are recommending a R9 280/270.
But I was burned with ATI years back with a Rage Fury Maxx, haven't gone back to them since.
A better question to ask might be, considering I have a 2500 non-k should I upgrade only the GPU or go for a full upgrade?
Went for lunch, saw this small computer shop in the same shopping center. Checked it out, got everything for pcs there. Even they build their own pcs to sell.
Question is, I saw one of these that is in my price range, how much more $$ is this compared to me trying to replicate myself by buying it online?
http://imgur.com/aw3ecWq
Oh ok, thanks de the reply. I was trying to see how much more this was compared online.I don't know how much the OS is going for now but the other parts are like maybe $500.
Pretty.New
]![]()
The Nvidia bridge definitely has some weight to it and is solid. The greens are not this light but my shitty phone camera couldn't capture it correctly.
See OP, work from there.The good news, I just got my ASUS GTX 970!!!
The bad new, it doesn't fit
Im still using an old cooler master from like 2006, so I guess it is time for a new case anyway. I guess the main thing I am looking for is around $100, and will definately fit my new 970. That thing is so much bigger than the 670 it is replacing.
See OP, work from there.
In meantime:
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I just hooked up my new AOC GSync screen. OMG, I will never be able to go back. This smoothness is fucking unprecedented. Byebye shitty Vsync. This is a dream come true for ever PC gamer and especially SLI users.
Yes. It is great.
Waiting on Acer 4k Gsync model and then I'll have the best of both worlds.
Same thing happened to me. It's the Windforce card right? If so, then I have that exact same card. I still had video output though. I figured out that the middle fan wasn't spinning even though all the fans sounded like they were at 100%. All I did was take the card out and I spun the middle fan for a while with my finger, put it back in and everything was normal. I had to do that twice when I first installed the card a few months ago. It's been working great ever since.
So check to see that all three fans spin properly. I have no useful advice other than that though lol.
I just hooked up my new AOC GSync screen. OMG, I will never be able to go back. This smoothness is fucking unprecedented. Byebye shitty Vsync. This is a dream come true for ever PC gamer and especially SLI users.
On the power saving situation, youve pretty much lost all the power saving since your using a fixed Vcore. So you coul give it a try.
An ideal OC uses offset vcore and C States enabled. So if you are reay to settle with 4.1Ghz, work towards getting offset Vcore setup.
Where'd you get it from? I'm guessing you aren't in NA?![]()
I went ahead with this. So C States are enabled and I'm using -0.05 Offset voltage (it ends up at 1.25v during Prime95). Prime95 was stable for 3 hours and I played BF4 for another 2 hours, all stable. So while the OC is quite modest, at least it will be efficient.
I'm fairly happy but I am not a big AAA game player so that as always extended life.
Oh yeah, I'm still rocking out a MSI 460 Twin Froz.
Like everybody else I am falling head over heels over the 970. Some of my friends are recommending a R9 280/270.
But I was burned with ATI years back with a Rage Fury Maxx, haven't gone back to them since.
A better question to ask might be, considering I have a 2500 non-k should I upgrade only the GPU or go for a full upgrade?
Anyone got any recommendations for a decent monitor over 21 inches? I'm also very sensitive to lousy color reproduction and delay. Price ranging from $150 to $250.
The temps are fine and normal for one core to be higher than the others. Now, overclock the cpu as fast as possible maintaining under 85C.Just got finished putting most everything together and installed RealTemp to see if I got my cooling set up right. Seems I have one core idle a bit warmer than the other 3, then one is a little cooler 100% in Prime95. Does this seem alright for a stock i7-4790K + Corsair H100i (case is still open)?
Min: 17, 21, 18, 18
Max: 51, 51, 50, 46
Just got finished putting most everything together and installed RealTemp to see if I got my cooling set up right. Seems I have one core idle a bit warmer than the other 3, then one is a little cooler 100% in Prime95. Does this seem alright for a stock i7-4790K + Corsair H100i (case is still open)?
Min: 17, 21, 18, 18
Max: 51, 51, 50, 46
I've now ordered a 980 and an ROG Swift. Now I'm starting to get paranoid that the 980 won't be able to run games smoothly at 1440p.
I've been reading different reviews of G-Sync...will it really feel as smooth at 50fps as it will at 110fps (assuming a fluctuating framerate example)? Or will it just feel BETTER than if there was no G-Sync? Only thing I've read is that framerates below 35fps is where the effect starts to wear off.
I don't want to have to get another 980 to drive this thing, starting to regret the Swift purchase slightly. Is G-Sync really that magical?
Someone help pleeeez,
I think my PSU might have gone to shit. My PC randomly restarted over and over again until i switched off the Automatic Restart, so now it just randomly shuts off completely. At first i thought maybe the CPU is overheating since I'm using the stock fan (spare me), but the temperature seems to be fine (40 idle, 68-70 under stress). I don't think its the CPU heat since i get no BSOD or overheating notice. GPU is not overclocked and also keeps a good temperature.
Once it shuts off, I cannot immediately restart it, I wait a couple minutes and readjust the power cable and then it does boot. The only notice i get is the Your PC Shut Off Incorrectly (something like that). Once it boots, everything runs normal. I was playing a game the first time it shut off and thought maybe it is overheating, but nope, shut off a little while ago while I was just browsing youtube.
That's the plan!Now, overclock the cpu as fast as possible maintaining under 85C.
One core will always be running hotter than the others.
Max Temps look good. Post your idle temps.
I've now ordered a 980 and an ROG Swift. Now I'm starting to get paranoid that the 980 won't be able to run games smoothly at 1440p.
I've been reading different reviews of G-Sync...will it really feel as smooth at 50fps as it will at 110fps (assuming a fluctuating framerate example)? Or will it just feel BETTER than if there was no G-Sync? Only thing I've read is that framerates below 35fps is where the effect starts to wear off.