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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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kennah

Member
If anyone has one sitting around after an upgrade - I need any Socket 1155 processor that has Hd3000 or hd4000 graphics to replace my i3 in my htpc.
 

riflen

Member
Excellent, cheers.

I expect the wiring to be poor as it's not been done since it was built in the 80's at a guess.

It all works though...!

Just wanting better than wireless performance

If I can offer further advice, I recommend you pick up adapters that have a pass-through power point on them. They cost more, but there's good reason.

It's recommended that if you use a powerline adapter in a dual wall socket, that you do not plug anything into the second socket. Doing so can add noise/interference to the line and make performance worse. If you have a pass-through point on the adapter, then you don't lose the use of the other socket.
You shouldn't use them in a 4-gang or power extender block either for the same reason.
 

bro1

Banned
I've had a lot of trouble getting TVs to pass the correct signal in the past. ARC will sometimes recognize the TV as a stereo device and therefore not pass a 5 channel sound and it will never pass lossless sound. Best setup is always to have your sound source going into the receiver and pass the video from the receiver to the TV. ARC is handy for the oddball netflix through your smart TV or whatever but the receiver should be the first in the chain almost always. The only downside is the potential for lip sync issues - i.e. the TV does too much processing and the image happens a noticeable time after the sound does. However, usually receivers have settings for lip sync delay that can put it back in sync.

If you want to get lossless sound, plug the Computer into the AVR into the HDMI in slot and then the AVR to the TV from the HDMI out slot. If you go from the computer to the tv to the reveiver, the optical cable ton the television will only send stereo.
 

Arken2121

Member
Quick update on my internet. I saw the comcast vehicle outside quite a bit earlier than the specified time and just chillin' there for like an hour. Me being the paranoid one keep testing my upload when all of a sudden i'm having no issues. Shaper comes back good, no dropped frames in obs. All of this happened without anyone stepping in my home. Now I was very specific about the problem I had so maybe the guy fixed something outside, I don't know.

Edit: I spoke to soon. It was working but now all of a sudden it's back to being unstable...sigh
 

kharma45

Member
Thank you for your build suggestions, much appreciated. I think I'd like to have Windows, is this a problem? (not sure what ATX is, sorry to sound like a complete noob). As mentioned above I just need the minimum set-up for Elite Dangerous to run as good as possible within my budget. Future proofing isn't that important.

ATX is normal sized. mATX is smaller, and for reference mITX is smallest.

What I meant about Windows is are you able to acquire it other ways? Like through education if you're at uni. It can be free for a lot of people, or myself who still has my old .ac.uk email address I can get Windows for £9 through it.
 

Ronnie

Banned
ATX is normal sized. mATX is smaller, and for reference mITX is smallest.

What I meant about Windows is are you able to acquire it other ways? Like through education if you're at uni. It can be free for a lot of people, or myself who still has my old .ac.uk email address I can get Windows for £9 through it.

Ah ok I just wasn't sure what ATX was, I thought it was something that stopped Windows being installed. Yes I can try and get Windows cheaper than its regular price.
 
If I can offer further advice, I recommend you pick up adapters that have a pass-through power point on them. They cost more, but there's good reason.

It's recommended that if you use a powerline adapter in a dual wall socket, that you do not plug anything into the second socket. Doing so can add noise/interference to the line and make performance worse. If you have a pass-through point on the adapter, then you don't lose the use of the other socket.
You shouldn't use them in a 4-gang or power extender block either for the same reason.

By pass through I assume you mean those with a plug socket on?

615mRlqCbBL._SL1500_.jpg

I'll keep that in mind thank you
 

Macmanus

Member
Built a new cookie-cutter rig about a month ago. i5 4690K, 280X, Windows 8, etc.

I play everything at 1080P and the rig crushes it no problem.

Updated Catalyst and now my FPS has gone to shit (BL2 went from 60+ to 10-15~).

Ran a system restore to before I installed the Catalyst. Still runs like shit.

Is the next step uninstalling the current drivers and installing older ones? Any other suggestions?

Also I kind of just want to sell the 280x and buy a 770 or something. I've dealt with AMD's shitty drivers for at least 10 years. I'm too old for this shit.
 

LilJoka

Member
Built a new cookie-cutter rig about a month ago. i5 4690K, 280X, Windows 8, etc.

I play everything at 1080P and the rig crushes it no problem.

Updated Catalyst and now my FPS has gone to shit (BL2 went from 60+ to 10-15~).

Ran a system restore to before I installed the Catalyst. Still runs like shit.

Is the next step uninstalling the current drivers and installing older ones? Any other suggestions?

Also I kind of just want to sell the 280x and buy a 770 or something. I've dealt with AMD's shitty drivers for at least 10 years. I'm too old for this shit.

System restore is a bad idea, always a last resort.

What you should do is download Display Driver Uninstaller. Run this, itll prompt to go into Safe Mode. Clean the drivers, install the version that was working for you previously on reboot.
 

tarheel91

Member
Built a new cookie-cutter rig about a month ago. i5 4690K, 280X, Windows 8, etc.

I play everything at 1080P and the rig crushes it no problem.

Updated Catalyst and now my FPS has gone to shit (BL2 went from 60+ to 10-15~).

Ran a system restore to before I installed the Catalyst. Still runs like shit.

Is the next step uninstalling the current drivers and installing older ones? Any other suggestions?

Also I kind of just want to sell the 280x and buy a 770 or something. I've dealt with AMD's shitty drivers for at least 10 years. I'm too old for this shit.

What drivers are you using? I've ran a 7950 (aka 280), 290, and now 295X2 over the last few years with no issues. I specifically played BL2 on my 7950 trouble free.
 

Macmanus

Member
What drivers are you using? I've ran a 7950 (aka 280), 290, and now 295X2 over the last few years with no issues. I specifically played BL2 on my 7950 trouble free.

I'm not at my pc now so I have no idea aside from AMD defaults. What I know is: PC worked great > Installed Catalyst update > PC chugs at shitty FPS.

System restore is a bad idea, always a last resort.

What you should do is download Display Driver Uninstaller. Run this, itll prompt to go into Safe Mode. Clean the drivers, install the version that was working for you previously on reboot.

Awesome. I will do this.
 
I just want to ask a very naive answer, "is this a good time to build a pc?"

Of course, the answer is always "No shit."

But I'm concerned if there's a new standard coming out I should wait for, like when I waited for PCI Express and DDR2 Ram (Yes, it was that long since I made a new rig)

Most of the new standards are already available, but if you're asking when they will be somewhat common and more importantly affordable, probably not until late 2015.

Broadwell is expected to be a slightly faster Haswell. The next big iteration in CPUs is supposed to be Skylake and people are at least hoping it will be 8 core and support DDR4. Of course the desktop form factor seems to be released last these days so who knows if it even hits shelves in 2015.

DDR4 is out now, but the motherboards are pricey and it isn't showing huge improvements over DDR3.

20nm GPUs probably hit in the spring, but no one knows how much faster than the current crop they will be. The next big hurdle in graphics is supposed to be Pascal which is dated for 2016.

M.2 Sata is out now as well, but expensive and again, not all that much of an improvement for gaming purposes.
 

appaws

Banned
I just want to ask a very naive answer, "is this a good time to build a pc?"

Of course, the answer is always "No shit."

But I'm concerned if there's a new standard coming out I should wait for, like when I waited for PCI Express and DDR2 Ram (Yes, it was that long since I made a new rig)

I have a 2500 non-K

Is it time?

The answer to these questions is always based on a matrix of your current amount of money you are willing to spend and your happiness with your current gaming PC setup.

I think it is a great time to build a gaming PC. There are so many great games available and game prices are fantastic.

Couchaddict, I guess it depends on what GPU you have and how that is serving you...? If you are still using the GPU you got at the same time as the 2500....then that may be the best place you could go for an upgrade...
 

massoluk

Banned
Most of the new standards are already available, but if you're asking when they will be somewhat common and more importantly affordable, probably not until late 2015.

Broadwell is expected to be a slightly faster Haswell. The next big iteration in CPUs is supposed to be Skylake and people are at least hoping it will be 8 core and support DDR4. Of course the desktop form factor seems to be released last these days so who knows if it even hits shelves in 2015.

DDR4 is out now, but the motherboards are pricey and it isn't showing huge improvements over DDR3.

20nm GPUs probably hit in the spring, but no one knows how much faster than the current crop they will be. The next big hurdle in graphics is supposed to be Pascal which is dated for 2016.

M.2 Sata is out now as well, but expensive and again, not all that much of an improvement for gaming purposes.

Exactly the answer I was looking for, many thanks.
 
The answer to these questions is always based on a matrix of your current amount of money you are willing to spend and your happiness with your current gaming PC setup.

I think it is a great time to build a gaming PC. There are so many great games available and game prices are fantastic.

Couchaddict, I guess it depends on what GPU you have and how that is serving you...? If you are still using the GPU you got at the same time as the 2500....then that may be the best place you could go for an upgrade...

I'm fairly happy but I am not a big AAA game player so that as always extended life.

Oh yeah, I'm still rocking out a MSI 460 Twin Froz.

Like everybody else I am falling head over heels over the 970. Some of my friends are recommending a R9 280/270.
But I was burned with ATI years back with a Rage Fury Maxx, haven't gone back to them since.

A better question to ask might be, considering I have a 2500 non-k should I upgrade only the GPU or go for a full upgrade?
 

kennah

Member
I'm fairly happy but I am not a big AAA game player so that as always extended life.

Oh yeah, I'm still rocking out a MSI 460 Twin Froz.

Like everybody else I am falling head over heels over the 970. Some of my friends are recommending a R9 280/270.
But I was burned with ATI years back with a Rage Fury Maxx, haven't gone back to them since.

A better question to ask might be, considering I have a 2500 non-k should I upgrade only the GPU or go for a full upgrade?

Get a 970 now, save up for a bigger upgrade later. Unless you really want to go all out. A 2500 wouldn't hold you back alllllthtaaaaaatttt much. You'd certainly see an improvement with an overclockable chip, but you would also see a significant increase just by changing the video card.
 

Mothman91

Member
Went for lunch, saw this small computer shop in the same shopping center. Checked it out, got everything for pcs there. Even they build their own pcs to sell.

Question is, I saw one of these that is in my price range, how much more $$ is this compared to me trying to replicate myself by buying it online?

http://imgur.com/aw3ecWq
 
Went for lunch, saw this small computer shop in the same shopping center. Checked it out, got everything for pcs there. Even they build their own pcs to sell.

Question is, I saw one of these that is in my price range, how much more $$ is this compared to me trying to replicate myself by buying it online?

http://imgur.com/aw3ecWq

I don't know how much the OS is going for now but the other parts are like maybe $500.
 
I just hooked up my new AOC GSync screen. OMG, I will never be able to go back. This smoothness is fucking unprecedented. Byebye shitty Vsync. This is a dream come true for ever PC gamer and especially SLI users.
 
The good news, I just got my ASUS GTX 970!!!


The bad new, it doesn't fit :(


Im still using an old cooler master from like 2006, so I guess it is time for a new case anyway. I guess the main thing I am looking for is around $100, and will definately fit my new 970. That thing is so much bigger than the 670 it is replacing.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
The good news, I just got my ASUS GTX 970!!!


The bad new, it doesn't fit :(


Im still using an old cooler master from like 2006, so I guess it is time for a new case anyway. I guess the main thing I am looking for is around $100, and will definately fit my new 970. That thing is so much bigger than the 670 it is replacing.
See OP, work from there.

In meantime:
6Rvf4Tu.jpg
 

Smokey

Member
I just hooked up my new AOC GSync screen. OMG, I will never be able to go back. This smoothness is fucking unprecedented. Byebye shitty Vsync. This is a dream come true for ever PC gamer and especially SLI users.

Yes. It is great.

Waiting on Acer 4k Gsync model and then I'll have the best of both worlds.
 
Yes. It is great.

Waiting on Acer 4k Gsync model and then I'll have the best of both worlds.

Yup, sounds like a dream setup. 4k combined with that smoothness... Wow!

I settled for the low cost version for now, but it feels like a fantastic improvement. DayZ, Crysis 1, GTA4, etc. All those games will finally feel great.
 

Katoki

Member
Same thing happened to me. It's the Windforce card right? If so, then I have that exact same card. I still had video output though. I figured out that the middle fan wasn't spinning even though all the fans sounded like they were at 100%. All I did was take the card out and I spun the middle fan for a while with my finger, put it back in and everything was normal. I had to do that twice when I first installed the card a few months ago. It's been working great ever since.

So check to see that all three fans spin properly. I have no useful advice other than that though lol.

Yeah Windforce card. They all seem to be spinning but I could be overlooking something so I'll see if that's the case. It worked fine all this time up until now is what boggles me.
 

garath

Member
I just hooked up my new AOC GSync screen. OMG, I will never be able to go back. This smoothness is fucking unprecedented. Byebye shitty Vsync. This is a dream come true for ever PC gamer and especially SLI users.

Where'd you get it from? I'm guessing you aren't in NA? :(
 
On the power saving situation, youve pretty much lost all the power saving since your using a fixed Vcore. So you coul give it a try.

An ideal OC uses offset vcore and C States enabled. So if you are reay to settle with 4.1Ghz, work towards getting offset Vcore setup.

I went ahead with this. So C States are enabled and I'm using -0.05 Offset voltage (it ends up at 1.25v during Prime95). Prime95 was stable for 3 hours and I played BF4 for another 2 hours, all stable. So while the OC is quite modest, at least it will be efficient.
 
Quick amazon question: do amazon give you the worst case scenario for estimated ship dates? It says my case and power supply supposed to come Monday but it's in transit right now, if it's in transit now shouldn't I recieve it by tomorrow or Friday
 

Arulan

Member
With Nvidia's announcement of VR SLI I'm at a point where I could consider SLI in the future again, but I'd like to hear impressions from those who have used SLI (AFR) on a single display.

With the exception of driver support issues, which I'm already familiar with, what drawbacks stand out the most? This is especially for those who are very sensitive to motion issues (judder, stuttering, etc.), does SLI still have noticeable problems with motion fluidity when compared to a single-card? I was under the impression that SLI required an additional buffer frame, which would obviously offset if rendering at twice the frame rate when compared to a single card. Are there any other input latency differences? I believe triple-buffering (Vsync) is impossible on SLI, is this correct? Does SLI interfere at all with frame limiters such as the RivaTuner Statistics Server in Afterburner? And finally, does G-sync work perfectly with SLI?

I realize these are very specific questions. Thank you for your help.
 

LilJoka

Member
I went ahead with this. So C States are enabled and I'm using -0.05 Offset voltage (it ends up at 1.25v during Prime95). Prime95 was stable for 3 hours and I played BF4 for another 2 hours, all stable. So while the OC is quite modest, at least it will be efficient.

Yeah this is a perfect setup now.
 

appaws

Banned
I'm fairly happy but I am not a big AAA game player so that as always extended life.

Oh yeah, I'm still rocking out a MSI 460 Twin Froz.

Like everybody else I am falling head over heels over the 970. Some of my friends are recommending a R9 280/270.
But I was burned with ATI years back with a Rage Fury Maxx, haven't gone back to them since.

A better question to ask might be, considering I have a 2500 non-k should I upgrade only the GPU or go for a full upgrade?

Going from a 460 to a 970 would be a huge upgrade.

The company ATI that made the Rage Fury does not exist anymore. AMD GPUs are fine products.....but on price/performance right now if you can afford the $329 price point, then you cannot beat the GTX 970. I would go for that ASUS Strix all day long.

Your friends are correct at lower price points, in the $150 to $250 range the AMD cards are still the best option.

So my advice for you is to do the GPU upgrade first....then if you want to do even more go for a Z97 board and an i7 4790k.
 
Just got finished putting most everything together and installed RealTemp to see if I got my cooling set up right. Seems I have one core idle a bit warmer than the other 3, then one is a little cooler 100% in Prime95. Does this seem alright for a stock i7-4790K + Corsair H100i (case is still open)?

Min: 17, 21, 18, 18
Max: 51, 51, 50, 46
 

knitoe

Member
Just got finished putting most everything together and installed RealTemp to see if I got my cooling set up right. Seems I have one core idle a bit warmer than the other 3, then one is a little cooler 100% in Prime95. Does this seem alright for a stock i7-4790K + Corsair H100i (case is still open)?

Min: 17, 21, 18, 18
Max: 51, 51, 50, 46
The temps are fine and normal for one core to be higher than the others. Now, overclock the cpu as fast as possible maintaining under 85C.
 

jabuseika

Member
Just got finished putting most everything together and installed RealTemp to see if I got my cooling set up right. Seems I have one core idle a bit warmer than the other 3, then one is a little cooler 100% in Prime95. Does this seem alright for a stock i7-4790K + Corsair H100i (case is still open)?

Min: 17, 21, 18, 18
Max: 51, 51, 50, 46

One core will always be running hotter than the others.

Max Temps look good. Post your idle temps.
 
Someone help pleeeez,

I think my PSU might have gone to shit. My PC randomly restarted over and over again until i switched off the Automatic Restart, so now it just randomly shuts off completely. At first i thought maybe the CPU is overheating since I'm using the stock fan (spare me), but the temperature seems to be fine (40 idle, 68-70 under stress). I don't think its the CPU heat since i get no BSOD or overheating notice. GPU is not overclocked and also keeps a good temperature.

Once it shuts off, I cannot immediately restart it, I wait a couple minutes and readjust the power cable and then it does boot. The only notice i get is the Your PC Shut Off Incorrectly (something like that). Once it boots, everything runs normal. I was playing a game the first time it shut off and thought maybe it is overheating, but nope, shut off a little while ago while I was just browsing youtube.
 

rabhw

Member
I've now ordered a 980 and an ROG Swift. Now I'm starting to get paranoid that the 980 won't be able to run games smoothly at 1440p.

I've been reading different reviews of G-Sync...will it really feel as smooth at 50fps as it will at 110fps (assuming a fluctuating framerate example)? Or will it just feel BETTER than if there was no G-Sync? Only thing I've read is that framerates below 35fps is where the effect starts to wear off.

I don't want to have to get another 980 to drive this thing, starting to regret the Swift purchase slightly. Is G-Sync really that magical?
 

The Llama

Member
I've now ordered a 980 and an ROG Swift. Now I'm starting to get paranoid that the 980 won't be able to run games smoothly at 1440p.

I've been reading different reviews of G-Sync...will it really feel as smooth at 50fps as it will at 110fps (assuming a fluctuating framerate example)? Or will it just feel BETTER than if there was no G-Sync? Only thing I've read is that framerates below 35fps is where the effect starts to wear off.

I don't want to have to get another 980 to drive this thing, starting to regret the Swift purchase slightly. Is G-Sync really that magical?

The latter. It'll feel better, but it won't be able to make up for frames which don't exist (if that makes sense).
 

rabhw

Member
Someone help pleeeez,

I think my PSU might have gone to shit. My PC randomly restarted over and over again until i switched off the Automatic Restart, so now it just randomly shuts off completely. At first i thought maybe the CPU is overheating since I'm using the stock fan (spare me), but the temperature seems to be fine (40 idle, 68-70 under stress). I don't think its the CPU heat since i get no BSOD or overheating notice. GPU is not overclocked and also keeps a good temperature.

Once it shuts off, I cannot immediately restart it, I wait a couple minutes and readjust the power cable and then it does boot. The only notice i get is the Your PC Shut Off Incorrectly (something like that). Once it boots, everything runs normal. I was playing a game the first time it shut off and thought maybe it is overheating, but nope, shut off a little while ago while I was just browsing youtube.

For sure sounds like a PSU issue to me. The lack of BSOD, and the lack of overheating seem like the giveaway symptoms.
 

Prez

Member
Anyone have a Lian Li case? Is it easy to replace the led lights? Other than the super bright less these cases seem perfect for me.
 

Woffls

Member
Anyone having issues with the X99 USB3 drivers? The other two controllers on my X99 SLI Plus are fine, but the one dealing with front panel is just unmounting anything that goes in it.

I've installed the latest drivers direct from MSI, and Windows update doesn't think they need replacing, so I assume they are functional. One of the super important things about getting a new PC was having USB3 on the front :(
 
I've now ordered a 980 and an ROG Swift. Now I'm starting to get paranoid that the 980 won't be able to run games smoothly at 1440p.

I've been reading different reviews of G-Sync...will it really feel as smooth at 50fps as it will at 110fps (assuming a fluctuating framerate example)? Or will it just feel BETTER than if there was no G-Sync? Only thing I've read is that framerates below 35fps is where the effect starts to wear off.

You gotta keep in mind that when you're running with a 60Hz display you're working in multiples of 17ms. If you miss the window, you have to wait another 17ms for the window to display a frame to come around. Humans usually start to perceive jitter at about 20ms with most people venturing up into the 30ms range or even sometimes the 50ms range. It all depends on the person. So if you're waiting >20ms for a frame you might perceive it as coming in "late" for the animation to be smooth. This is around 50fps. Some people it might be smooth at 25ms, 40fps.

Gsync lets the frames display as they come in. If a frame takes 20ms you don't have to wait 33ms for the vblank to come back around (which is an artificial construct, a remnant of CRT monitors and electron beams) and it looks smoother even though the frame rate might not be dead on 60 where normally it would have you wait the extra 13ms.
 

maven

Member
After close to two years of drooling over this thread, it's time. My core 2 duo and 8800gt are finally being put out to pasture.

Huge thank you to all the helpful people in this thread - it's an amazing resource.

Got all my bits - 4790k, 980, impact vii, 16g RAM etc, just waiting on my tiny ncase m1 to be delivered. I'm literally salivating...

Got a 1tb ssd for windows and a 256g ssd I'll try to hackintosh once yosemite is out (fingers crossed for nvidia 900 series support)

My main question for now - do people find it worthwhile to run a separate partition for the windows install? I've never bothered, but I can see it might have some benefits.
 
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