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[Lonewolf_92]

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master RR-HT2-28PK-R1 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB WINDFORCE
Case: Rosewill ARMOR-EVO
Power Supply: Rosewill Stallion 700W
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-G300LX 802.11b/g PCI Wi-Fi Adapter

Total: $1329.93

I have a DVD Burner, 500GB HDD, and Windows 7 that I'll be adding to it (had the optical drive and HDD in an old PC and found my Windows 7 disk). Other than a SSD (I'll get one when I can afford it, honest! ), that look good for a build that will be mostly for heavy gaming, light emulation, and general use? I'm looking to pull the trigger on it Monday.

 

[hipbabboom]

Holy shit loll, what's your gpu. Also you gotta OC that CPU. When did you get the system? If you built it when the 3930K was contemporary its fine, but I hope you didn't just buy that CPU loll.

I built it in 2012 all my RAM is DDR3 1600 and my GPU is a R9 290 (upgraded my GTX 670) I bought days ago. I hate myself and I really want to start cutting right now ;_;

 

[Ambition]

Do any of you guys have recommendations for a CPU cooler under $40? My CPU in an
i5-3570k (LGA 1155) , if that matters.

 

[Lonewolf_92]

Do any of you guys have recommendations for a CPU cooler under $40? My CPU in an
i5-3570k (LGA 1155) , if that matters.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus is $19.99 on Newegg with free shipping
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is $29.99 on Amazon
Both are highly recommended in this thread and elsewhere.

 

[Tablo]

I built it in 2012 all my RAM is DDR3 1600 and my GPU is a R9 290 (upgraded my GTX 670) I bought days ago. I hate myself and I really want to start cutting right now ;_;

Its gonna be okay bro, just get a good cooler and OC that CPU. Its still a beast.

 

[riflen]

About nvidia inspector. How come nvidia doesn't have their own version of that and someone had to make it?

This is a question for NVIDIA. Why bother, is probably the answer.

Okay so even after using zipties to put a 120mm exhaust on the side of my case right next to my GPU it's still hitting 90C. I don't know what happened. Could it be a power issue (i.e. my PSU is dying)? I doubt it.

I have the thermal paste on the GPU just fine (Arctic Silver 5, too). I wonder if the GPU VRM somehow went bust. Could explain a lot.

I really should have just sent the card back to MSI. But never before have I put thermal paste on something and not seen the temps drop... I literally have no idea why this is happening.

Not summer temps either. Plus my case is near a cold air return that is sucking dust and stale air from being near the case into the vent and away from the inside of my PC obviously.

Was the fan you added working as an intake? Looking at your diagram, there is no intake to bring in cool air where the GPU is situated. I don't think it's anything to do with your PSU. It's possible the temperature sensor in the GPU is faulty, but it would be the first time I've heard of that.

You could run the PC with the case open to see if temps change at all. It's probably still worth enquiring about warranty with MSI. Removing the HSF isn't a big deal to some vendors.

 

[Superimposer]

Is an AIO water cooler (h100i) really worth the extra money over say the 212 Evo? I'm planning my Air 540 build and they're both in my budget, but any amount of money I can knock off is a good thing.

Depends if you want to overclock considerably. 212 Evo can handle a mild overclock but once voltages start going high it's not going to cut it.

Could always look at top-of-the-line air coolers too - the Noctua NH-D14 tests about as well as more expensive water coolers, is very quiet, and has just had a drop in price due to the release of the D15.

 

[Hazaro]

Ugh I need to get my shit together.

Is an AIO water cooler (h100i) really worth the extra money over say the 212 Evo? I'm planning my Air 540 build and they're both in my budget, but any amount of money I can knock off is a good thing.

Not really no. You'll get another 0.1 or 0.2Ghz out of it from a performance standpoint and you can just get another good fan for the 212 EVO for much much less.

Depends if you want to overclock considerably. 212 Evo can handle a mild overclock but once voltages start going high it's not going to cut it.

Could always look at top-of-the-line air coolers too - the Noctua NH-D14 tests about as well as more expensive water coolers, is very quiet, and has just had a drop in price due to the release of the D15.

Current Intel chips are limited by temp, but even DC is still victim to bad core->IHS transfer that a fantastic cooler won't help that much (See my 280mm rad and 70C load temps delid)

 

[Renekton]

There are some utility for closed loop water...small form factor to give case some breathing room (noctua and hyper are big), noob-friendly installation and keeping cpu heat out of case ambient.

 

[CouchMaster]

3DMark Fire Strike sure does know how to make a fella's new video card feel inadequate A 3D Mark of 8865 is embarrassing right? I thought of doctoring the numbers and adding a thousand to it just so I don't look like a chump. What should I do? Should I overclock it? I was hitting as low as 19 FPS on some parts of this demo. 19 FPS in 2014!!

I get about 9700 with my 290 and 4570, but my 290 is water cooled and OC'd to 1130/1450mhz. Can't go any further because it black screens on me. I guess your overall score is down because of physics, so just OC your CPU and try again. Your GPU score should be above 11k which is pretty respectable.

 

[Brofist]

Well did it today. Upgraded to

Asus Z97-A
Corsair H80i
i7 4790k

 

[jfoul]

$289.79 + Free shipping @ Amazon Warehouse

• Gigabyte R9 290 OC

 

[Genio88]

3DMark Fire Strike sure does know how to make a fella's new video card feel inadequate A 3D Mark of 8865 is embarrassing right? I thought of doctoring the numbers and adding a thousand to it just so I don't look like a chump. What should I do? Should I overclock it? I was hitting as low as 19 FPS on some parts of this demo. 19 FPS in 2014!!

Is 3930K showing its age? A CPU Mark of 11210 can't be respectable Maybe I need to overclock.


This is never going to happen to me again. I swear my next system sometime next year is going to be a 4-way version of whatever the highest end GPU is -- DDR4 (not building another system without DDR4) -- and the next bleeding edge Intel processor. I'm sick of getting punked...

HOW'S THIS SHIT GOING TO DRIVE 3440x1440 at 60 FPS with 4xMSAA?!!


FML!! ;_;


EDIT: I got a warm room out of it at least

Are you kidding right? a 3930k is a beast of cpu, overkill for gaming even at stock speed, of course achieve 4k and 60fps right now is almost impossible, GPUs are not good enough, unless you spend almost 4000$ in a 4 way sli of 780 ti/titan black

 

[Genio88]

I get about 9700 with my 290 and 4570, but my 290 is water cooled and OC'd to 1130/1450mhz. Can't go any further because it black screens on me. I guess your overall score is down because of physics, so just OC your CPU and try again. Your GPU score should be above 11k which is pretty respectable.

My 290 tri-x achieves 1100/1450mhz on stock voltage with its sapphire tri-x cooler, without go over 70'c, not such a big water cooler yours

 

[CouchMaster]

My 290 tri-x achieves 1100/1450mhz on stock voltage with its sapphire tri-x cooler, without go over 70'c, not such a big water cooler yours

I can go upto 1280/1600mhz with +100mv and 75c max, but I got busted in Elpida memory Nothing I can do about it short of RMA, and since I removed the Asus shroud its out if warranty.

 

[kharma45]

Alright ^^

So this family sharing stuff you're looking at. Is it just streaming movies or what exactly are you looking for it to do? This is low end but might well suffice, depends on what you're doing exactly.

Edit - Wrong mobo

 

[rafbanaan]

So this family sharing stuff you're looking at. Is it just streaming movies or what exactly are you looking for it to do? This is low end but might well suffice, depends on what you're doing exactly.

Family Sharing / Homestreaming with Steam. So I would stream some game from my main pc and use the family sharing to play some light weight games.

 

[kharma45]

Family Sharing / Homestreaming with Steam. So I would stream some game from my main pc and use the family sharing to play some light weight games.

I'll re-jig it then in that case. Wasn't sure whether you were streaming games or movies. If you're looking to play the odd game I'll look at a discrete GPU or even an APU. Plenty of wiggle room in that budget to do so.

 

[Aranath]

Is there any way for me to connect two different pairs of headphones to my PC and have the same sound playing through both? I want to watch some stuff with my girlfriend on my PC and I don't have speakers.

I've got an Asus Xonar DGX and my motherboard is an MSI Z77 Mpower. I've obviously got the rear and front panel connectors, but I can't find a way to play sound through both at the same time.

 

[Smushroomed]

is home streaming what i think it is?
have your gaming comp in another room, stream to your tv in the family room and have everything run seamlessly?

if so, i'm building one today

 

[DjRalford]

Is there any way for me to connect two different pairs of headphones to my PC and have the same sound playing through both? I want to watch some stuff with my girlfriend on my PC and I don't have speakers.

I've got an Asus Xonar DGX and my motherboard is an MSI Z77 Mpower. I've obviously got the rear and front panel connectors, but I can't find a way to play sound through both at the same time.

I would imagine taking the output from one source and running a headphone Y splitter would give you output in both pairs. Never tried it myself though

Edit - This should do the trick
http://www.belkin.com/uk/p/P-F8V234-GLD-APL/

 

[rafbanaan]

I'll re-jig it then in that case. Wasn't sure whether you were streaming games or movies. If you're looking to play the odd game I'll look at a discrete GPU or even an APU. Plenty of wiggle room in that budget to do so.

Oki ^^. I just found out I still have a Asrock Deluxe 3 laying around with a Intel I5-750. Motherboard is ATX format. Could I use this or better look for something new?

 

[kharma45]

Oki ^^. I just found out I still have a Asrock Deluxe 3 laying around with a Intel I5-750. Motherboard is ATX format. Could I use this or better look for something new?

Yep that'd be still perfect. I'd need to beef up the PSU, change the case but I'll get back to you now with a build around it.

Edit - So with CPU and motherboard accounted for you could slot this stuff in

You could beef up the system yet more too within budget. Do you still have the stock heatsink for the i5 750? If not a Hyper 212 would be a good buy at €30, and would also give you the ability to overclock that i5. You could also bump up the GPU to an R7 265. With that build you're ending up with a very good machine for gaming never kind streaming.

 

[DjRalford]

After still seeing temps of very close to 90c since my Gene VII 4790K build in my A30 I've decided to go for the Fractal Node 804, the A30 is just too crammed to deal with such a hot CPU adequately.

The Node 804 is just small enough to fit in my TV cabinet where my A30 is, and I've ordered it with a Corsair H100i water cooling system for the CPU also.

First time with water so I thought a sealed system would be best, any advice from anyone out there who has these would be great.

 

[tarheel91]

I built it in 2012 all my RAM is DDR3 1600 and my GPU is a R9 290 (upgraded my GTX 670) I bought days ago. I hate myself and I really want to start cutting right now ;_;

In addition to what others have said, Firestrike tends to favor Nvidia cards. Synthetic benchmarks aren't worth worrying about for the most part. I'm use them to stress test and that's it.

 

[Lumine]

So I finished my first built yesterday! Took a lot longer than expected having to, but I'm happy everything seems to work fine.

Fill all connectors. You do use the 6+2 for both. If the 2 are shorter, that means you have the tabs on the wrong side. Slide the 2 from the front of the 6 until they are lined up and held together with the tabs.

Ha yeah that's what I did, thanks anyway though. There's a 6 and an 8 connector, so I put the 6+2 into the 6 while leaving the 2 hanging and put the 6+2 into the 8. Had to connect the 2 first, because the plastic blocks the 6 otherwise. Weird design but oh well.

Anyway I have a few questions now that I'm as I'm a little worried here ( I also promised to post some pictures anyway. ) First of all, I built everything except for putting the CPU onto the motherboard and the cooler on top of that. I had the store let that do for me, but I'm not sure they did it the correct way.

Sorry about the crappy cellphone quality! Is the CPU cooler set in the correct direction? Does it matter much? I feel as if they should have installed the other way around, but maybe it can't be installed that way or perhaps it just doesn't matter at all. Please put my mind at ease guys!

My other question is regarding the top of my case. That looks very open to me and I'm afraid it's going to eat a lot of dust through there. Is it ok to leave it like that? Do I need to buy a dust filter or an extra fan to put there? What do you guys think?

I also put the PSU with the fan down instead of up. The case has an opening on the bottom side (this one does have a filter,) Was I correct in doing this or do I need to turn it around again?

Last question: I bought the 4690k so I should OC it. I'll have to read a guide first. However I noticed in the BIOS the CPU is already running at ~45 degrees celcius. Is that normal? It seemed a little hot to me before even having OCed it or ran any games.

Thanks in advance. I appreciate the help!

 

[kharma45]

So I finished my first built yesterday! Took a lot longer than expected having to, but I'm happy everything seems to work fine.



Ha yeah that's what I did, thanks anyway though. There's a 6 and an 8 connector, so I put the 6+2 into the 6 while leaving the 2 hanging and put the 6+2 into the 8. Had to connect the 2 first, because the plastic blocks the 6 otherwise. Weird design but oh well.

Anyway I have a few questions now that I'm as I'm a little worried here ( I also promised to post some pictures anyway. ) First of all, I built everything except for putting the CPU onto the motherboard and the cooler on top of that. I had the store let that do for me, but I'm not sure they did it the correct way.

Sorry about the crappy cellphone quality! Is the CPU cooler set in the correct direction? Does it matter much? I feel as if they should have installed the other way around, but maybe it can't be installed that way or perhaps it just doesn't matter at all. Please put my mind at ease guys!

My other question is regarding the top of my case. That looks very open to me and I'm afraid it's going to eat a lot of dust through there. Is it ok to leave it like that? Do I need to buy a dust filter or an extra fan to put there? What do you guys think?

I also put the PSU with the fan down instead of up. The case has an opening on the bottom side (this one does have a filter,) Was I correct in doing this or do I need to turn it around again?

Last question: I bought the 4690k so I should OC it. I'll have to read a guide first. However I noticed in the BIOS the CPU is already running at ~45 degrees celcius. Is that normal? It seemed a little hot to me before even having OCed it or ran any games.

Thanks in advance. I appreciate the help!

Cooler is fine. There isn't a huge difference in push v pull.

Top of the case you could get filters if you want. Up to yourself. Again, not a massive issue.

Ideally you want your PSU facing down, as in the config you have it instead of pulling in cold air from outside the case it's pulling hot air from within through itself. Just get it flipped over.

45c at idle is a bit warmer than I'd expect to see. You could move the fan from push to pull to see if that makes a difference, although I can't see a big change happening. Happy to be wrong though!

 

[Diablos]

This is a question for NVIDIA. Why bother, is probably the answer.



Was the fan you added working as an intake? Looking at your diagram, there is no intake to bring in cool air where the GPU is situated. I don't think it's anything to do with your PSU. It's possible the temperature sensor in the GPU is faulty, but it would be the first time I've heard of that.

You could run the PC with the case open to see if temps change at all. It's probably still worth enquiring about warranty with MSI. Removing the HSF isn't a big deal to some vendors.

Which vendors? There's a sticker on one of the screws that says "warranty void if removed", lol. I clearly removed it. I'll try making the fan an intake.

 

[Majima Everywhere System]

So I just got an XFX R9 280x, and immediately I had trouble with flickering in 2d mode. The worst offenders were the menus of Titanfall and Castle Crashers, but the thing performs brilliantly when displaying 3d graphics. There would also be flicker on the desktop and when using browsers, and full grey screens or horizontal/vertical lines that required a reboot.

The issue seems to be that the card doesn't fully kick in until it has a worthy challenge, and it is still saving energy when playing 2d games/graphics which causes a ton of flicker.

I adjusted the low-end settings for when the card is not under load to this:

GPU Clock: 300MHz-->600MHz
Memory Clock: 150MHz-->1500MHz

Am I reducing the life of the card by running it in beast mode constantly, and should I just RMA it and hope for better results on another card? Right now, the card is at 46c on the desktop.

 

[tarheel91]

So I just got an XFX R9 280x, and immediately I had trouble with flickering in 2d mode. The worst offenders were the menus of Titanfall and Castle Crashers, but the thing performs brilliantly when displaying 3d graphics. There would also be flicker on the desktop and when using browsers, and full grey screens or horizontal/vertical lines that required a reboot.

The issue seems to be that the card doesn't fully kick in until it has a worthy challenge, and it is still saving energy when playing 2d games/graphics which causes a ton of flicker.

I adjusted the low-end settings for when the card is not under load to this:

GPU Clock: 300MHz-->600MHz
Memory Clock: 150MHz-->1500MHz

Am I reducing the life of the card by running it in beast mode constantly, and should I just RMA it and hope for better results on another card? Right now, the card is at 46c on the desktop.

Have you updated drivers? There's no need to use 1500MHz for a memory clock baseline. 300MHz is fine.

 

[Krusenstern]

I've got a very annoying problem with my PC's RAM. I hope this is the right thread for this.

First my system:
OS: Windows 8.1 64bit
CPU: i7 975 XE
Motherboard: Asus P6T WS Pro
RAM: Corsair 6 GB Triple Kit (TR3X6G1333C9) [got two kits, making it 12 GB]

The issue:
I recently decided to upgrade my memory from 6 GB to 12 GB. Been using 6 GB (3x 2GB models) of the aforementioned memory nearly 2 years without a single incident. Never had a blue sceen once and PC never behaved strange before. TR3X6G1333C9 can be even found in the Qualified Vendor List for my mainboard. It says the mainboard supports six modules of that RAM inserted into both slots as two set of Triple-channel memory configuration. Both the mainboard and the CPU can support a total of up to 24 GB RAM.
So I bought another Triple Kit of the exact same RAM I've been using all along and installed it in the remaining slots of my mainboard.

The problem is: it only recognizes 12 GB after a warm boot. After a cold boot it only shows 10 GB installed.
Again, to be clear: When you boot up the system from a powered-down state the PC will only show that 10GB are installed. It will only show all of the installed 12 GB RAM when you restart the PC via the operating system.

What the heck is this?

 

[Drake]

dear god my new PC is a beast. I get 110-120 fps on the Witcher 2 with everything maxed at 1920x1080. I get 55-60 FPS with everything maxed and ubersampling on. I used to get 25fps at 720p with all the settings turned down on my old rig. This is quite the step up for me.

In case anyone was wondering I upgraded from a Core 2 Duo E7300, a GTX 460 and 4 GB of RAM to a 4790k, a GTX 780 and 16 GB of RAM.

 

[Lumine]

Cooler is fine. There isn't a huge difference in push v pull.

Top of the case you could get filters if you want. Up to yourself. Again, not a massive issue.

Ideally you want your PSU facing down, as in the config you have it instead of pulling in cold air from outside the case it's pulling hot air from within through itself. Just get it flipped over.

45c at idle is a bit warmer than I'd expect to see. You could move the fan from push to pull to see if that makes a difference, although I can't see a big change happening. Happy to be wrong though!

Awesome, I'm a lot less worried now.
I'll try to change the push/pull settings on the fans and see if there's a difference. I'm assuming I have to do this in the bios?

I'm not convinced about the dust filters though. The holes on top look big, and all my pc's have had eventually a dust problem. There's large holes on the side-panel as well actually. However looking online, there don't seem to be many places that sell these and a set for the 300R seems to quickly cost $50+.

I'm confused about what you mean about the PSU. I thought mine is flipped over. The fan is on the bottom directed outside. Or did you mean it should be the other way around?

Thanks again!

 

[Majima Everywhere System]

Have you updated drivers? There's no need to use 1500MHz for a memory clock baseline. 300MHz is fine.

I switched from Nvidia, and started with the Beta drivers. Then I went back to the latest WHQL (14.0), and now I'm back on the Beta ones because I didn't notice any change.


Thanks for the input. I had grabbed the numbers from another user who experienced the same issue, but wasn't sure if they were killing a mosquito with a cannon.

Should I just shoot for a low baseline with both as long as I'm not experiencing a flicker? The upper limit of the card is GPU: 1000MHz and Memory: 15000MHz.

 

[rafbanaan]

Yep that'd be still perfect. I'd need to beef up the PSU, change the case but I'll get back to you now with a build around it.

Edit - So with CPU and motherboard accounted for you could slot this stuff in

You could beef up the system yet more too within budget. Do you still have the stock heatsink for the i5 750? If not a Hyper 212 would be a good buy at €30, and would also give you the ability to overclock that i5. You could also bump up the GPU to an R7 265. With that build you're ending up with a very good machine for gaming never kind streaming.

Thanks, but is the 520W not a bit 'overkill' for a 750Ti?


And it gots my thinking Maybe I can spent a bit more money (~€500) and build a new one. Small factor style and do an hackingtosh on it with a bootcamp for Windows 8. So I have OS X desktop for quick us and a small gaming rig.

Edit: going to see for this. Ok, if I post here for some input? If it turns out nothing, I will stick with that build.

 

[Superimposer]

If I'm going to buy a SSD, does it matter what level of performance I get out of my storage drive really? Any reason I shouldn't just go for a WD Green over a Blue?

 

[rafbanaan]

If I'm going to buy a SSD, does it matter what level of performance I get out of my storage drive really? Any reason I shouldn't just go for a WD Green over a Blue?

When you want to access it. The blue will still be a bit faster.

I've two Blue's in my system for storage and the access time compared to a SSD is making me want to go full SSD. With a green I would say it's a bit more notable.

 

[kennah]

When you want to access it. The blue will still be a bit faster.

I've two Blue's in my system for storage and the access time compared to a SSD is making me want to go full SSD. With a green I would say it's a bit more notable.

I'm never buying a hard drive again (except for my NAS)

 

[Smushroomed]

I have this weird problem

1. boot up pc
2. monitor doesn't recognize OR pc doesn't put out correct info
3. monitor cycles through HDMI / DVI inputs searching for a signal


I have to reset my comp (through the reset button through the front) 1 or 2 times before it will boot correctly

Any ideas?

I have it on SSD, and windows 8.1 If i were to reformat windows and the problem still persists, what could be the issue?

 

[tarheel91]

I switched from Nvidia, and started with the Beta drivers. Then I went back to the latest WHQL (14.0), and now I'm back on the Beta ones because I didn't notice any change.


Thanks for the input. I had grabbed the numbers from another user who experienced the same issue, but wasn't sure if they were killing a mosquito with a cannon.

Should I just shoot for a low baseline with both as long as I'm not experiencing a flicker? The upper limit of the card is GPU: 1000MHz and Memory: 15000MHz.

Yeah, it should scale up as needed. I had my 7950 (aka R9 280) on 14.4 drivers and never experienced anything like that.

 

[Aurarian]

$289.79 + Free shipping @ Amazon Warehouse

• Gigabyte R9 290 OC

Does this include the warranty and the AMD gold offer?

 

[Diablos]

Yeah, reversing the fan did nothing.

 

[Dries]

Guys, is it okay if my RAM memory runs at a frequency of 1600 Mhz while my CPU only supports RAM up until 1333 Mhz? 1600 Mhz is stock speed for my RAM.

I have an i5 2500K. Here's where I found the max RAM frequency: http://ark.intel.com/products/52210

 

[kharma45]

Thanks, but is the 520W not a bit 'overkill' for a 750Ti?

And it gots my thinking Maybe I can spent a bit more money (~€500) and build a new one. Small factor style and do an hackingtosh on it with a bootcamp for Windows 8. So I have OS X desktop for quick us and a small gaming rig.

Edit: going to see for this. Ok, if I post here for some input? If it turns out nothing, I will stick with that build.

It is a tad, but if you were to OC the i5 and/or add an R7 265 over the 750 Ti it'd give you headroom that a 450w wouldn't. Up to yourself. The VP450 is a solid unit if you want to cut down in that area.

I'm playing it a bit safe I guess with the PSU.

Awesome, I'm a lot less worried now.
I'll try to change the push/pull settings on the fans and see if there's a difference. I'm assuming I have to do this in the bios?

I'm not convinced about the dust filters though. The holes on top look big, and all my pc's have had eventually a dust problem. There's large holes on the side-panel as well actually. However looking online, there don't seem to be many places that sell these and a set for the 300R seems to quickly cost $50+.

I'm confused about what you mean about the PSU. I thought mine is flipped over. The fan is on the bottom directed outside. Or did you mean it should be the other way around?

Thanks again!

Push/pull you'll have to physically move the fan on the CPU cooler to the other side.

Dust wise for the top you could add fans to blow air out, would help with that. Cheaper than filters. I've my 200R set up that way.

I read your post wrong on the PSU, my mistake. If the fan is facing down then that's good.

Guys, is it okay if my RAM memory runs at a frequency of 1600 Mhz while my CPU only supports RAM up until 1333 Mhz? 1600 Mhz is stock speed for my RAM.

I have an i5 2500K. Here's where I found the max RAM frequency: http://ark.intel.com/products/52210

It's fine.

 

[knitoe]

Guys, is it okay if my RAM memory runs at a frequency of 1600 Mhz while my CPU only supports RAM up until 1333 Mhz? 1600 Mhz is stock speed for my RAM.

I have an i5 2500K. Here's where I found the max RAM frequency: http://ark.intel.com/products/52210

It's fine as long as your MB supports it. People have been running 1600 Mhz and above for years.

 

[mkenyon]

Guys, is it okay if my RAM memory runs at a frequency of 1600 Mhz while my CPU only supports RAM up until 1333 Mhz? 1600 Mhz is stock speed for my RAM.

I have an i5 2500K. Here's where I found the max RAM frequency: http://ark.intel.com/products/52210

Technically, anything over 1333 is an overclock on an Intel chip. You can run the memory as fast as it will run though.

It's fine as long as your MB supports it. People have been running 1600 Mhz and above for years.

The motherboard has little to do with it, other than having the option in BIOS to select a higher speed. It's mostly dependent on the Proc's IMC and the quality of the memory chips.

Awesome, I'm a lot less worried now.
I'll try to change the push/pull settings on the fans and see if there's a difference. I'm assuming I have to do this in the bios?

I'm not convinced about the dust filters though. The holes on top look big, and all my pc's have had eventually a dust problem. There's large holes on the side-panel as well actually. However looking online, there don't seem to be many places that sell these and a set for the 300R seems to quickly cost $50+.

I'm confused about what you mean about the PSU. I thought mine is flipped over. The fan is on the bottom directed outside. Or did you mean it should be the other way around?

Thanks again!

You don't want to mess with the heatsink. They installed it correctly, with the fan oriented in the correct position.

 

[Lime]

Ugh my newly acquired Gigabyte Windforce 290 is suffering from the black screen issue.

Anyone know any fixes for it or should I just make an RMA?

Anyone?

 

[kharma45]

You don't want to mess with the heatsink. They installed it correctly, with the fan oriented in the correct position.

I thought the feeling was pull was genially better than push.

 

[kennah]

I thought the feeling was pull was genially better than push.

Other way around. Push is always better.

 

[scogoth]

Push vs pull is marginal difference. Slow fans lean towards pull and fast fans lean towards push but at the mid ground 1500rpm there is no difference.

http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html