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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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PaulLFC

Member
My PC build that will be arriving soon has a Gigabyte Z97-HD3 motherboard in it - I knew this was a budget board, but apart from checking it had support for 5.1 sound inputs and a decent amount of memory, I didn't do too much research on it before picking it (a bit stupid, I know, live and learn I guess).

Curiosity got the better of me today and I went looking for reviews of it. The only one I could find was this one which wasn't too positive.

From what I understand, the drawbacks are mostly only relevant if I wanted to run SLI graphics cards in the future? I only chose a single card in this build (GTX 780) and will likely only run single card in the future, at least until I go for an entirely new PC years down the line anyway.

It's too late to change the choice now, but hopefully I didn't make a mistake choosing this board.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Safe, just test it with Memtest after. However unless you have an Intel 46xx chip going above 1600/1866 is super minimal gains (0-3%) and ARMA TMK is FAAAAR more CPU limited just from speed, memory probably being a very small thought after.

I just went through whole discussions about this on the ArmA forums, and people there are saying the game's memory bottlenecks are actually the bigger problem. More specifically, those bottlenecks severely cut CPU utilization. And those comments are coming from people who are already overclocked at 4.4GHz.

Most of the time when I'm playing ArmA 3 one of my CPUs (I have an i5-4670k) is at around 80 percent load while the others hover around 30 to 40 percent load.
 

Panzon

Member
Hey guys I'm wondering how much success I would have selling my PC. It cost about $1500 and I wanna sell it for $1200. How is the success rate in selling PCs and do you think the price is too high?

I'll post the specs when I get home
 

kennah

Member
Hey guys I'm wondering how much success I would have selling my PC. It cost about $1500 and I wanna sell it for $1200. How is the success rate in selling PCs and do you think the price is too high?

I'll post the specs when I get home
Have no way of telling you without knowing the specs.
 

mkenyon

Banned
At that point I might as well just get a 295X2, ha.
Yeah, but then only the GPU core is under water. One of the neat benefits of full blocks is that it keeps the entire board cool, which helps with stability during overclocking. When VRM and memory gets hot, you'll get artifacts and crashing.
 
Hey

I need a quick bit of advise from the BuilderGAF. I'm upgrading my i7 2600k stock cooler so I can OC it to 4,5ghz, but am currently debating between tower cooler and h110 from Corsair.

My main problem is with products like noctua d-nh15 is that I have bit taller memory ( Kingston HyperX T1, which I believe is 61mm tall), and that I move my computer now and then. I also have a Asus 580gtx DCII GPU, so was wondering if my motherboard can actually take the extra weight of a Noctua tower. So what is the recommended way of approach?
Thank you in advance.

To summarize the specs:
Tall memory (61mm)
580 gtx DCII on motherboard already (planning to upgrade to 880 when it comes out)
case is antec twelvehundred v1

Edit: Also I travel by train with the computer 2-4 times a year.

The weight of everything shouldn't be a problem. These big CPU coolers are very well engineered with backplates that spread the weight across the board. The GPU is also supported by the case at the mounting bracket, so it's weight is not fully resting on the mobo.

In terms of which solution you should go for, it is completely up to you. The Noctua will perform the same if not a little better than the closed loop, and run quieter overall. It also costs about 12 dollars less. The big question you have to answer is whether or not you have enough space above your ram for the Noctua. Take some measurements and then check it against the clearance of the Noctua, although I don't know where you can find these exact measurements. However, if this rig is moved a lot a CLC might be the better option as there is no extra stress while in movement on the socket.
 

Yaska

Member
The weight of everything shouldn't be a problem. These big CPU coolers are very well engineered with backplates that spread the weight across the board. The GPU is also supported by the case at the mounting bracket, so it's weight is not fully resting on the mobo.

In terms of which solution you should go for, it is completely up to you. The Noctua will perform the same if not a little better than the closed loop, and run quieter overall. It also costs about 12 dollars less. The big question you have to answer is whether or not you have enough space above your ram for the Noctua. Take some measurements and then check it against the clearance of the Noctua, although I don't know where you can find these exact measurements. However, if this rig is moved a lot a CLC might be the better option as there is no extra stress while in movement on the socket.

I need to do some measuring, but yes, the problem with Noctua is that the cooler clearance of my case seems to be 170mm, so I can move the another fan up only 5mm, still being shy 12mm from the required 61mm ram height, since that's how tall memory I have (and 4 sticks too, yes I'm stupid.), I found the specifications from noctua's site.
I was also wondering if I should go pull/pull configuration instead of push/push to avoid the problems with the memory.
 

LilJoka

Member
Sounds good, I'll just go back to trying to enjoy it now!

I just want this cable, right? I can use the 3 to 4 pin adapters than came with the fans to make the connection for my Cougars? (the corsair fans are already 4 pin)

Yes thatll work. Dont need 3->4 pin adaptors to connect the 3pin fans to the 4pin splitter cable. They will just fit with a pin missing.
Whats the cooling config? I may of missed this somewhere. Fans, their positions and CPU Cooler?
 

LilJoka

Member
I need to do some measuring, but yes, the problem with Noctua is that the cooler clearance of my case seems to be 170mm, so I can move the another fan up only 5mm, still being shy 12mm from the required 61mm ram height, since that's how tall memory I have (and 4 sticks too, yes I'm stupid.), I found the specifications from noctua's site.
I was also wondering if I should go pull/pull configuration instead of push/push to avoid the problems with the memory.

Sorry ignore..
 

hipbabboom

Huh? What did I say? Did I screw up again? :(
Yeah, but then only the GPU core is under water. One of the neat benefits of full blocks is that it keeps the entire board cool, which helps with stability during overclocking. When VRM and memory gets hot, you'll get artifacts and crashing.

Does your builds have water-cooled memory?

I'm think about getting into a fully water-cooled build as a future project sometime late next year.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Does your builds have water-cooled memory?

I'm think about getting into a fully water-cooled build as a future project sometime late next year.
As Kennah points out, there's not much of a point to it. Not worth the ~$100+ to add blocks and fittings for memory to the loop. I mean, you have to draw the line somewhere, right? :p
 

Tapejara

Member
GAF, I need motherboard help!

I'm looking to upgrade my motherboard. Currently, I'm using the stock board that came with my computer, which is this one. The chipset is an Intel 7Z5. I'm hoping to upgrade to something a bit nicer while keeping my i7-3770. Does it have to be the same chipset? Or can I use something like this (just for example) which uses a Z77 chipset?
 

mkenyon

Banned
GAF, I need motherboard help!

I'm looking to upgrade my motherboard. Currently, I'm using the stock board that came with my computer, which is this one. The chipset is an Intel 7Z5. I'm hoping to upgrade to something a bit nicer while keeping my i7-3770. Does it have to be the same chipset? Or can I use something like this (just for example) which uses a Z77 chipset?
You can use any of the following chipsets: H67, P67, Z68, B75, H76, or Z77. Basically anything that accepts socket 1150 processors. Just make sure it fits in your case.
My PC build that will be arriving soon has a Gigabyte Z97-HD3 motherboard in it - I knew this was a budget board, but apart from checking it had support for 5.1 sound inputs and a decent amount of memory, I didn't do too much research on it before picking it (a bit stupid, I know, live and learn I guess).

Curiosity got the better of me today and I went looking for reviews of it. The only one I could find was this one which wasn't too positive.

From what I understand, the drawbacks are mostly only relevant if I wanted to run SLI graphics cards in the future? I only chose a single card in this build (GTX 780) and will likely only run single card in the future, at least until I go for an entirely new PC years down the line anyway.

It's too late to change the choice now, but hopefully I didn't make a mistake choosing this board.
It is good. It's not feature rich, but it will OC your processor and play games great.
 

Ray Wonder

Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
This is what I'd do:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($212.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Z PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1347.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

650W plenty enough for any single card. I'd rather have an SSD that is twice the size and plenty large enough for tons of games. If you want the Xonar for particular reasons that are beyond my very limited knowledge of audio products, please pass on my Z suggestion, but the virtualized surround from Creative is generally considered better. The Z is a damn good value.

120/144 Hz monitor with native firmware-based strobing is the future, so definitely worth the upgrade there.

Thanks, I like the suggestions. I really want a 27" monitor though. I'm not sure I can give up the 3 inches for the strobing. I might have to find a 27" 120/144 Hz one and shell out the extra money.
 

Tablo

Member
Which of you pro builders lives in the Burbank/Pasadena/Glendale area and would be down to assemble a PC for a fellow gaffer xD
 

mkenyon

Banned
Thanks, I like the suggestions. I really want a 27" monitor though. I'm not sure I can give up the 3 inches for the strobing. I might have to find a 27" 120/144 Hz one and shell out the extra money.
Have you seen a 27" 1080p monitor in person?

The RoG Swift is 1440p, 144Hz, with G-Sync, and is about $800.
 

Ray Wonder

Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
Have you seen a 27" 1080p monitor in person?

The RoG Swift is 1440p, 144Hz, with G-Sync, and is about $800.

It can't be worse than what I've been using. I'm on a 36" 1360x768 television right now.. I know, it's shameful. I've been using it partly because my old GTX 550 can't handle much more resolution than that.
 
I need to do some measuring, but yes, the problem with Noctua is that the cooler clearance of my case seems to be 170mm, so I can move the another fan up only 5mm, still being shy 12mm from the required 61mm ram height, since that's how tall memory I have (and 4 sticks too, yes I'm stupid.), I found the specifications from noctua's site.
I was also wondering if I should go pull/pull configuration instead of push/push to avoid the problems with the memory.

I would most likely just go with something like an H100i in this particular situation, especially with you moving this rig around on a train a few times a year. Now the question is, do you have space for a 240mm rad in the case?
 

The Llama

Member
Thanks, I like the suggestions. I really want a 27" monitor though. I'm not sure I can give up the 3 inches for the strobing. I might have to find a 27" 120/144 Hz one and shell out the extra money.

This is just IMO but its really not worth passing up 144Hz just for an extra 3 inches. There's actually (again, just IMO) not much of a size difference between a 24" and 27" monitor. Its noticeable, but not as much as you might think. Going from like a 22" to 24" monitor is much more noticeable.
 

Ray Wonder

Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
Have you seen a 27" 1080p monitor in person?

The RoG Swift is 1440p, 144Hz, with G-Sync, and is about $800.

This is just IMO but its really not worth passing up 144Hz just for an extra 3 inches. There's actually (again, just IMO) not much of a size difference between a 24" and 27" monitor. Its noticeable, but not as much as you might think. Going from like a 22" to 24" monitor is much more noticeable.

I'm gonna wait for a while on the monitor. I'll think about it! I'm gonna grab the case and the Mobo tonight.
 

Stubo

Member
So I'm definitely getting a Dark Rock 3 CPU cooler (NCIX just put it up for $49.99!!!) and I want to do a push/pull config. It comes with one 135mm fan, but all I'm able to find online are 140mm. Would it be ok to throw that on there with the 135?

Edit: here's a link to it in case anyone else is interested.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?usa...&vpn=BK018&manufacture=be quiet!&promoid=1009
If you really want 2 fans then just get the Noctua NH-D14 for an extra $10!
 

Superimposer

This is getting weirder all the time
Where is the debate right now on maximising airflow? What are the priorities in terms of fan placement? Obviously the front intake and rear exhaust are crucial but beyond that, should I go with another front intake before a side intake? What about bottom and top intake and exhaust? I think I'll have 5 fans in total.

If I'm putting the tower on carpet, does that affect whether I should have a bottom intake?

Define R4 if that makes any difference.
 

Stubo

Member
Where is the debate right now on maximising airflow? What are the priorities in terms of fan placement? Obviously the front intake and rear exhaust are crucial but beyond that, should I go with another front intake before a side intake? What about bottom and top intake and exhaust? I think I'll have 5 fans in total.

If I'm putting the tower on carpet, does that affect whether I should have a bottom intake?

Define R4 if that makes any difference.
Which GPU(s) are you going to be running? Heavily overclocked CPU?

Generally speaking for the R4 I'd suggest 2 front intakes and a rear exhaust for maximum silence. Side intake has historically been recommended if you're running extremely hot GPUs - could potentially be useful for reference 290 or 290X users.

For most builds the 3 fans will be sufficient to get comfortable temperatures in the R4 while having a whisper quiet system.
 

Superimposer

This is getting weirder all the time
Which GPU(s) are you going to be running? Heavily overclocked CPU?

Generally speaking for the R4 I'd suggest 2 front intakes and a rear exhaust for maximum silence. Side intake has historically been recommended if you're running extremely hot GPUs - could potentially be useful for reference 290 or 290X users.

For most builds the 3 fans will be sufficient to get comfortable temperatures in the R4 while having a whisper quiet system.

It'll be a 290X or a 780 Ti if that's cheap enough when I get round to it, which will probably be in 2 months. I'd like to OC the GPU and CPU though (4790k) - have an Alpenfohn K2 cooler.
 

Stubo

Member
You should be fine as long as you get a card with a nice cooler.

You could start off with the 2 fans which come with the case in top-front and rear configuration and see how that is for sound and temperature. If you're not happy look to add a fan to the lower-front or replace them with even quieter options as you see fit.
 

maxagombar1

Neo Member
Hoping to get some good advice from Gaf on this, my msi970a-g43 mobo is playing me up and after doing some research ive found that I have a typical problem when pairing this mobo with an 8320 (even though it is supported on msi's website).

Im looking for a new mobo, and want to find the best option that will not cause me any heating issues whatsoever (Ive had enough for a life time). Id like to preferably keep the budget below £70.

What do you guys think of the ASUS M5A97 LE R.20 board at £58 on ebay, is there a better board more suited to my cpu and why? Cheers guys ...
 

Magnus

Member
I understand about 25% of the OP, and am scared. I'm enlisting the BF's help to build me a gaming PC this fall (my current rig which I only use for WoW and the occasional HTPC - Netflix, etc. is from 2008 and feeling inadequate), as I wish to run WoW at top levels come the new expansion, and have a more capable machine for other games on occasion as well.

Subbed. I shall return in a few months.

Until then, would anyone be able to tell me which of Haz's builds in the OP would help me run Blizzard's games at max levels without breaking a sweat? Could I go with "Great" or would I need to do whatever's one tier up from that? I know that when it comes to good ol' Blizz, I don't really need bleeding edge stuff, but you never know.
 
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