When I turned it on for the first time it started for a second and then kind of rebooted I think. Immediately after that it started again and then kept on running without any problems. The fans were working and everyrhing else looked fine. But nothing was displaying on the monitor. The light of the GPU was also working. I've turned it off right now and I'm heading off to best buy to get a dvi to VGA converter
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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When I turned it on for the first time it started for a second and then kind of rebooted I think. Immediately after that it started again and then kept on running without any problems. The fans were working and everyrhing else looked fine. But nothing was displaying on the monitor. The light of the GPU was also working. I've turned it off right now and I'm heading off to best buy to get a dvi to VGA converter
AbundantChoice
Member
Just have to share. So a while back work agreed to buy new home desktop (since I do a lot of research on my home machine anyway). I spun them a line (with an element of truth) about how I needed a beefier than normal machine because I do a lot of video editing for my study stimuli. They finally got back to me earlier this week and essentially said
"No problem. As long as it's a Dell, you can basically order whatever you want."
Really? Ohhhhhhkay.
So... I just got order confirmation for my new Alienware Area-51 desktop. It's... triangular. Really triangular. With LED piping on the sides. 16 gigs of ram. 5930K processor.
Oh.. and a GTX 980 graphics card.
... They approved it! I have no idea how anyone could look at that thing with a straight face and go "yeah, that's a work machine." But i'm not going to complain!
"No problem. As long as it's a Dell, you can basically order whatever you want."
Really? Ohhhhhhkay.
So... I just got order confirmation for my new Alienware Area-51 desktop. It's... triangular. Really triangular. With LED piping on the sides. 16 gigs of ram. 5930K processor.
Oh.. and a GTX 980 graphics card.
... They approved it! I have no idea how anyone could look at that thing with a straight face and go "yeah, that's a work machine." But i'm not going to complain!
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Lucky dude, congratz and have fun "working".
I have connected it to the GPU, not really sure why the display isn't showing
Nostremitus
Member
Finally got around to buying all the parts for my AMD fusion itx HTPC.
I'm excited to build again.
I'm excited to build again.
Yes. The cable connects directly to the monitor and it switches to the correct mode. There isn't any onboard GPU in the board. Its a Asus x99a
Wafflecakes
Member
Ok. Building my first set, but I inherited this pre-built that I want to salvage for some parts.
(Note: This machine crashes and blue screens with multiple different errors. Diagnosis is pretty much impossible outside of buying new parts and switching them out one at a time.)
What do you think is salvagable?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229288
I would assume that the hard drive is salvagable, plus I upgraded it with a SSD which I can save. I already own a new power supply, plus I hope to save the blu-ray drive (though it needs new software that costs as much as a new drive).
What else do you think I can run with? This is my first time even attempting at building a PC.
(Note: This machine crashes and blue screens with multiple different errors. Diagnosis is pretty much impossible outside of buying new parts and switching them out one at a time.)
What do you think is salvagable?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229288
I would assume that the hard drive is salvagable, plus I upgraded it with a SSD which I can save. I already own a new power supply, plus I hope to save the blu-ray drive (though it needs new software that costs as much as a new drive).
What else do you think I can run with? This is my first time even attempting at building a PC.
As you noted, you can save the HDD, the SSD you upgraded it with, and the blu-ray drive. You can also save the RAM (unless you decide to go X99, which requires DDR4; also, it may be slow, low quality RAM, but that probably won't have much of an impact for gaming). You're going to want to get a new CPU, mobo, and GPU.
hehe, I was watching Giantbomb's Quicklook of the new DLC
Wafflecakes
Member
If I were to jump over to Intel would I need to get a new case? Is there a way to tell?
Also, if I were to upgrade ram to DDR4 i would assume I would have to get a different type of MOBO?
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Interesting, thanks.
I've actually never looked into mITX builds, so I didn't even consider it. I'll be honest though, I sort of prefer the LOOK of the larger cases. I actually found my wifi USB stick lying around, so I may not really lean towards that anymore...
If it a standard ATX or mATX case, then you wouldn't need a new case. I don't know how you'd be able to tell, but I imagine that it is (I know companies like Dell used to use non-standard cases, but that was years ago).
Basically, the only thing that uses DDR4 is the X99 platform, which is Intel's newest enthusiast platform. The Z97 platform still uses DDR3, and for most games performs just as well as X99.
Well, I don't think there was a desktop model Geforce 7400, I can only find laptop graphics chipset by that name. However, the GT 740 is likely still an big upgrade over your old Geforce card. A brand new GT 740 costs about 90 Euros, so 70 Euros seems alright.
If you want the absolute best graphics card for yout 150 Euro budget, then the GTX 750 Ti for 135 Euros is perfect for you. It's fully compatible with your old system and likely won't require a power supply upgrade. It may even allow you to play games. It's difficult to find benchmark tests for older or low end video cards, but if the GT 740 is about the same as the GT 640, then the GTX 750 Ti is absolutely better all round.
Keep in mind though, the video card will be held back by your old computer's limited processing power. There's not a lot to upgrade besides the video card, as your computer is so old that you will need to find used parts like the processor to upgrade it. They no longer make compatible parts for it.
If you're looking for a a stronger processor to hold you over until you buy a new computer, perhaps you can check craigslist or similar services for compatible models like the E8400 or Q6600.
There's quite a lot that can be done to optimize costs. I'll mention some alternatives and list you an alternative build.
You can get a Windows product key from Reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap. It'll cost around $10-20 depending on what version you buy.
You may want to get and install a non-stock heatsink anyway. It'll help keep your computer running cooler than the stock Intel heatsink and be easier to install when you put the computer together. It's only $27 for the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo.
The R9 280 is a decent video card, but the price you're paying for that is kinda high. You can get the slightly better R9 280X for about the same price. I recommend the XFX R9 280X which is $205 after a $30 mail in rebate, just $5 more than the R9 280 you have listed.
As for wifi, I recommend going with a USB or add-in PCI-E card.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($304.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.78 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($58.49 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($204.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $862.04
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-10 20:55 EST-0500
I shaved off about $60 going with alternative parts for the power supply, RAM, and motherboard. I included the heatsink I recommended as well as wireless AC adaptor, and it pretty much costs the same as you had it before I optimized it.
Otherwise, LilJoka's build is much more compact.
Yeah, that's compatible with your processor and will work out of the box. Sorry, it's been a while - but will you be overclocking? If not, you can stick with a cheaper H97 motherboard instead. The ASRock H97M Pro4 is only $83, it's $27 cheaper than the GA-Z97M-D3H, not a lot of difference in terms of features and performance.
zeroeffect
Member
Anyone? Thinking possibly RAM so I'll run a memory test overnight. First time I ever seen it do it and been running fine all day. Hoping it's not a potentially bad capacitor on mobo or PSU. I guess it could be something like voltage in the BIOS or I need a BIOS update to fix a bug. Strange it never appeared before though so that leads me to believe it's a hardware issue.
System specs? Sometimes computers will have a "hiccup" like that, all it takes is a reboot to get it functioning fine again. If your computer does that repeatedly or predictably, then I'd say there's something wrong or broken.
Wafflecakes
Member
Someone explain to me how to choose a MB.
What is the difference between this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
and
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
People on PCparts are giving me drastically different recommendations on MB's than the OP, and I have no knowledge on how to distinguish.
What is the difference between this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
and
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
People on PCparts are giving me drastically different recommendations on MB's than the OP, and I have no knowledge on how to distinguish.
On the advice of a friend I bought these two fans to help cool my internals in a Fractal Design Core 1000 MicroATX Mini Tower Case:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026ZPFDE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R9YYXG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
He has the same case as I do and said it was easy to install the fans. Would someone mind giving me some guidance as to where the fans go and what connections I need to make to power them? Would be much appreciated. Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026ZPFDE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R9YYXG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
He has the same case as I do and said it was easy to install the fans. Would someone mind giving me some guidance as to where the fans go and what connections I need to make to power them? Would be much appreciated. Thanks!
TC McQueen
Member
Gigabyte's board has a chipset that's designed to officially support overclocking and (IIRC) has a higher manufacturing standard than the Asrock one.
smokeandmirrors
Banned
The Crucial MX100 512gb price seems almost too good to be true. Damn. Looks like I should get one of them now. Been holding off until 256-512gb became relatively cheap.
Wafflecakes
Member
If I am not planning on overclocking should I go with the Asrock, or is it really worth it to pay for the better model?
TC McQueen
Member
I'd say try to find an H97 board from a different manufacturer at around the same price.
Thanks for the advice. Not planning to overclock so I checked your link. On Canadian newegg it's only $10 cheaper though! The real reason I won't go with that H97M motherboard is because I can't find the dimensions on it, even on the manufacturer page. 9.6" by 9.6" is my max. Plus the GA has 32GB memory support.
Wafflecakes
Member
Looking on Newegg there are dozens to choose from..... but all have worse reviews than the one I linked.
TC McQueen
Member
Well, I guess that settles that then.
Those reviews are pointless. They're either vocal minority or people who didn't know what they were doing.
Oh...My... Lord. I need that FTZ01 without the ugly Silverstone logo. Also There's the ML08 that looks even nicer next to the red RVZ01, but from what I hear it will have more plastic than the FTZ01.
Wafflecakes
Member
It is a question. I am at a loss as to how to choose one.
Not trying to be abrasive or anything. That first one I linked is listed in the OP builds so I was confused that you were telling me to avoid it.
Some people are prejiduced against ASRock. They're fine. Pick any Z97 board that you like the look of and that fits your budget. Everything else is just diminishing returns complaints. Overlocks to 4.2 instead of 4.5, extra ports for things, different sound card manufacturers and so on. For the newbie, pretty much any motherboard is fine.
Wafflecakes
Member
That is a relief. I am one of those shoppers who gets paralyzed by choices. I have been on the verge of building a PC several times over the years, only to get spooked by the unknowns and conflicting info.
As for now going to go with this build (not including stuff I am bringing over from old machine).
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card ($169.50 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Already have this PS
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Will bring over HD, SDD, Optical, and RAM from old machine.
If you are getting the K series processor, get the Z series board to match it.
If you don't want to get a Z series board, don't get a K series processor.
Wafflecakes
Member
How exactly do I tell what series a board is?
Is this what I am looking for?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128714
Maybe this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLJ3F6Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20
What will you be using the computer for, and what is the processor that you will be using with the PC? Do you already have a computer that you are replacing the motherboard for, or are you building a new one? What case do you have or will you be using?
That ASRock H97M motherboard is a good budget choice and is mATX, which means it's smaller so it will fit in smaller cases and can make for a more compact computer. The Gigabyte is considered to be higher end, is ATX size (normal larger size), has more features, and will support overclocking better.
If you don't need the extra features of the Gigabyte motherboard, then the other one will serve you just fine. The Gigabyte motherboard can be had for $137 elsewhere.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xud3h
I don't know how your current case and fans are set up. If you only have the stock fans that came with the case, then the fans will go in the only unused fan mounts there are.
You friend should have told you how the fans should go in, but it's fairly straightforward. There's a single spot for each fan to be mounted in the case, and they fit the mounts exactly.
If you look at the side of the fan, there should be arrows indicating what direction the fan moves air in. The 92mm fan at the back of the case should blow air out of the case. The 120mm fan mounted at the side of the case should pull fresh air into the case. Both fans can plug into the motherboard, the connectors look like this. It may be three pins or four pins, either will work. You can only plug it inone way, the plastic tabs will help you to plug it in correctly.
The cable for the 120mm fan might be a bit short and awkward to mount on the side panel. In that case, you can use the adaptor provided with the 120mm fan as an extension cable, just plug that end into the power supply cable instead of the motherboard connector,.
Wafflecakes
Member
I'll just take this one and run with it, thanks!
May as well pay for extra features that I may want in the future.
zeroeffect
Member
i7 4790k
evga gtx 980 acx 2.0
corsair vengeance 16gb ram
sabertooth mark 2 motherboard
seasonic g-series 750w psu
Sorry, I forgot that you were buying Canadian parts. It's been a couple of weeks since you first posted, back in the other thread. I looked up your parts, and you said you had the Thermaltake Urban S1 MicroATX mini tower case.
The Asrock H97M motherboard will fit, they are both mATX size, so they will work together. The ATX computer parts standards require that, so you are safe to buy any mATX motherboard and it will fit any mATX case, barring really specific scenarios or proprietary parts. I'm not sure where you read that the ASRock motherboard doesn't support 32GB, it says it supports that in the specs.
The ASRock H97M Pro4 can be had for $78 CAD after a $25 mail in rebate. If you don't want to deal with mail in rebates, then there's the Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H is $95 CAD.
Considering that we now know the rest of the parts you have (ATX size case and K series processor) then yes, I recommend you get the Gigabyte Z97 model instead of the smaller ASRock H97M.
You parts look very new. I doubt it's failing capacitors or anything like that.
I read it only supports 16BG on the newegg listing, woops. Didn't know the thing about all microATX's working together but thank you I will consider this motherboard!
Archaonlotr
Neo Member
Any experts on fan positive pressure setups
i recently went x2 140mm @ 900RPM + x1 120mm @ 900RPM as intake
VS
x1 120mm @ 1100RPM with a H105 Radiator (x2 120mm NF-F12) as exhaust
i hope this is sufficient for a GTX970 SLi setup
i recently went x2 140mm @ 900RPM + x1 120mm @ 900RPM as intake
VS
x1 120mm @ 1100RPM with a H105 Radiator (x2 120mm NF-F12) as exhaust
i hope this is sufficient for a GTX970 SLi setup
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Oh...My... Lord. I need that FTZ01 without the ugly Silverstone logo. Also There's the ML08 that looks even nicer next to the red RVZ01, but from what I hear it will have more plastic than the FTZ01.
Nice. this is what I'm will be building for my brother once I convince him to put the dough.
Many non Z motherboards, including the H97m pro4, support K unlocked overclocking out of the box or with a bios update. If you're going to be keeping the CPU for a while, consider overclocking as the performance gain can extend the relevance of the CPU for a while (see the 2500k).
Hey guys, what do you think of this monitor?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-27-i...D=1&siteID=qcLRzjFniJE-XT9Qla2FdBXOngILEKvggA
I was originally gonna go with the Asus VS239H-P, but do we have any opinions on this one? 27 inches sounds really nice...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-27-i...D=1&siteID=qcLRzjFniJE-XT9Qla2FdBXOngILEKvggA
I was originally gonna go with the Asus VS239H-P, but do we have any opinions on this one? 27 inches sounds really nice...
Found the problem. It was the RAM (its always the RAM isn't it :S). Here is what happened,
So because of my stupidity and ignorance I hadn't read the motherboard's guide on installing the RAM properly. I had pretty much given up on the PC booting but I noticed that there was a solid LED light next to my RAM. I opened the MB manual and according to it if that particular LED is constantly showing then that means there is a problem with the RAM.
I took all the RAMs out and read the installation instructions properly. Inserted everything according to the instructions and what do you know, I GOT POST. I cannot be more happy right now.
Currently posting this from my newly assembled PC. My final configuration was:
Intel Core I7-5820K
Corsair H105
ASUS X99-A
16GB Crucial Ballistix RAM
Crucial MX100 512GB SSD
Toshiba DT01ACA300 3TB HDD
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Gigabyte GTX 970 G1
Corsair Raptor M45
EVGA Supernova 850 G2
Windows installation was a bit annoying but ended up getting windows 8.1 to run properly as well. Right now my idle temps according to hwmonitor:
CPU = 32 'C
GPU = 32 'C with fan at 34%
Are these temps ok? Oh and thanks a lot for you replies guys and sorry for my stupidity. You guys are really awesome for continuously answering everyone's questions in this thread.
Combined with the i5-4970k, what is the best card in the 250-350 range for 120fps gaming (WoW, CS:GO, Dota 2, that sort of thing.)
960 is too much, 760 feels too outdated (mostly because of the number swap though,) and I heard amd cards tend to have far better performance per dollar than nvidia cards, but I'm not sure. Value is my biggest concern by far, if the 250 dollar one has significantly higher performance per dollar than an overall better 330 dollar card I would go with the $250 one.
Thanks.
960 is too much, 760 feels too outdated (mostly because of the number swap though,) and I heard amd cards tend to have far better performance per dollar than nvidia cards, but I'm not sure. Value is my biggest concern by far, if the 250 dollar one has significantly higher performance per dollar than an overall better 330 dollar card I would go with the $250 one.
Thanks.
Well, at least you found and solved the problem easily. Flashing lights are rare to see on a motherboard, usually it's solid, not blinking.
Those are idle temperatures, 32 degrees is absolutely fine. Start up some demanding games or programs and see how hot it gets when it has a workload. The H105 water cooler should be more than enough to handle load temperatures, though. You could also overclock the CPU if you want with no worries about high temperatures.
I think an R9 290 will do you good. Otherwise, go with a GTX 970 for better performance, although at a higher cost.. Here are benchmarks comparing the two. The scores for the GTX 970 should be a bit higher, I think - the card they used was an early sample and probably wasn't quite running as intended, but the R9 290 does come quite close.
Here below are some recommendations for the R9 290:
Asus R9 290 for $240 after $30 mail in rebate
Gigabyte R9 290 for $250 after $30 mail in rebate
From what I can see from benchmarking videos on youtube, the R9 290 gets 250-300 frames per second in CSGO. I can't find much for people running Dota 2 with the R9 290, but the weaker 280X manages a framerate of about 100, dropping to around 50-60 when the action on screen gets extremely intense. The R9 290 can run WoW at 150 frames per second.
By flashing I meant a solid light. Should have worded that properly. I'm currently downloading titanfall so going to try that out first on this build. Didn't realize its a 20GB download so thats going to take me a couple of hours.
Will definitely look into overclocking as well. I'm hoping to go up to 4.0GHZ as going by various reviews that seems like a very safe and easy step up from stock clocks.
Oh and I'm glad I didn't end up buying a DVI to VGA adapter. Went to bestbuy and they were selling one for 40$. I couldn't believe the price so I came back empty handed. I'm glad I did that instead of falling for their rip of price for a simple adapter. :S
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