• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

Status
Not open for further replies.
I am very unhappy with the CPU cooler in my PC. My goal was to build a very small and quiet ITX PC.

I bought a Corsair H80i liquid cooling kit and it is just too loud and does not seem to perform much better then air cooled heat sinks. Also, the corsair monitoring software is a CPU hog.

Anybody have a recommendation on an air cooler CPU cooler that would fit the following?

Fractal Design Node 304 case
Asus Maximus VI Impact Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard

I'd like it to be quieter than the H80i and have good thermal performance. Any Thoughts?
 
Yes, a good router does wonders in these scenarios.



Hmm. There are a couple of options: you can purchase a pre-made USB HDD and plug that into the USB port of the router, or you can find a NAS enclosure and put your own HDD into that. The latter option is much more expensive.

There are a lot of USB HDDs out there too, so you have a lot of selection in terms of what to choose. However, the thing you need to look at is whether or not your router's USB functionality is up to snuff, or whether it has streaming capabilities in the first place.

I've got some generic router the cable company gave me.
 

LilJoka

Member
I am very unhappy with the CPU cooler in my PC. My goal was to build a very small and quiet ITX PC.

I bought a Corsair H80i liquid cooling kit and it is just too loud and does not seem to perform much better then air cooled heat sinks. Also, the corsair monitoring software is a CPU hog.

Anybody have a recommendation on an air cooler CPU cooler that would fit the following?

Fractal Design Node 304 case
Asus Maximus VI Impact Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard

I'd like it to be quieter than the H80i and have good thermal performance. Any Thoughts?

Noctua tower style heatsinks are the best for this.

H80i is loud as hell in comparison to most air coolers.
 

RGM79

Member
I am very unhappy with the CPU cooler in my PC. My goal was to build a very small and quiet ITX PC.

I bought a Corsair H80i liquid cooling kit and it is just too loud and does not seem to perform much better then air cooled heat sinks. Also, the corsair monitoring software is a CPU hog.

Anybody have a recommendation on an air cooler CPU cooler that would fit the following?

Fractal Design Node 304 case
Asus Maximus VI Impact Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard

I'd like it to be quieter than the H80i and have good thermal performance. Any Thoughts?

Are you overclocking or running anything extremely intensive? As was recommended, Noctua is very well known for cooling performance and low noise. Some Noctua models include low noise fan cable adaptors that lower the voltage so you can keep fan speeds down without the need for software. If you're not overclocking, then a cheaper tower style cooler like the Cooler Master 212 Evo will do well. If you like, you can replace the 212 Evo's stock fan with an even quieter aftermarket fan (maybe another Noctua? Be Quiet?) although I'm out of touch with what are good fan brands and models so maybe someone else can recommend better fans.
 

baphomet

Member
that was a bit ambitious of me. i just looked at some benchmarks for the 980ti and youre absolutely right. so i guess ill definitely be sticking to 1080p.

Thing is, after about 90-100fps you can't tell much difference. Especially with a gsync monitor.
 

SRG01

Member
I've got some generic router the cable company gave me.

Hm, this may be a little more difficult then. If you can get into the router config, check to see whether it has a model number or something you can look up on the internet. If not, check the USB settings to see whether the router supports Network Discovery (or equivalent) or DLNA (or some other media streaming protocol).
 

Denali

Member
I'm trying to decide on which CPU cooler to run with in this build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QWqxqs

I'm not a big fan of the aesthetics of the Hyper 212 EVO, so I've been looking more at the Corsair liquid cooling options (though I'm not completely opposed to the heat pipe type coolers). I already have the Define R4 w/ Window, so that's set in stone. I'm a bit worried that something like the Corsair H105 may not fit with the motherboard/case I have selected, as the taller heatsink at the top makes me think it may not fit. Is it possible to mount this at the front in this case? Also, I see that the H100i is a bit slimmer, but I've read a few reviews of people having mounting issues with it, so I'm a bit put off from it as well.

Anyone have any input on this (or anything else about this build)? If perhaps changing the motherboard could solve the issue, I'd like to keep the blue color scheme.
 
Hm, this may be a little more difficult then. If you can get into the router config, check to see whether it has a model number or something you can look up on the internet. If not, check the USB settings to see whether the router supports Network Discovery (or equivalent) or DLNA (or some other media streaming protocol).

Model is sagemcom f@st 3965. Evidently all the settings are managed through the isp.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm trying to decide on which CPU cooler to run with in this build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QWqxqs

I'm not a big fan of the aesthetics of the Hyper 212 EVO, so I've been looking more at the Corsair liquid cooling options (though I'm not completely opposed to the heat pipe type coolers). I already have the Define R4 w/ Window, so that's set in stone. I'm a bit worried that something like the Corsair H105 may not fit with the motherboard/case I have selected, as the taller heatsink at the top makes me think it may not fit. Is it possible to mount this at the front in this case? Also, I see that the H100i is a bit slimmer, but I've read a few reviews of people having mounting issues with it, so I'm a bit put off from it as well.

Anyone have any input on this (or anything else about this build)? If perhaps changing the motherboard could solve the issue, I'd like to keep the blue color scheme.

Its crazy that just a few posts above somebody probably took the same route as you and is now switching to air. You look at your PC a fraction of the time you sit by and use it whilst having to listen to it.

Assuming youve got a haswell mainstream chip, why not go with the 120mm solutions?
 

Denali

Member
Its crazy that just a few posts above somebody probably took the same route as you and is now switching to air. You look at your PC a fraction of the time you sit by and use it whilst having to listen to it.

Assuming youve got a haswell mainstream chip, why not go with the 120mm solutions?

Are there other popular options aside from the Hyper 212 EVO, or are they all pretty similar in appearance? Just wanting to look at my options; I don't mind paying a bit more.

I've never gone with liquid cooling, are the pumps noticeably loader than an air solution?
 

RGM79

Member
Are there other popular options aside from the Hyper 212 EVO, or are they all pretty similar in appearance? Just wanting to look at my options; I don't mind paying a bit more.

I've never gone with liquid cooling, are the pumps noticeably loader than an air solution?
Phanteks has their PH-TC14PE cooler which comes in a variety of colors. You may like the blue one. As I recall, reviews are excellent and the TC14PE is on par with the Corsair H100i and/or H105 in terms of performance and has somewhat lower noise levels. When I get home in a bit, I'll find sources for that performance claim.

Edit:
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2014/02/07/corsair-h105-review/2
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/corsair-hydro-h105-cpu-cooler-review/6/
 

Denali

Member
Phanteks has their PH-TC14PE cooler which comes in a variety of colors. You may like the blue one. As I recall, reviews are excellent and the TC14PE is on par with the Corsair H100i and/or H105 in terms of performance and has somewhat lower noise levels. When I get home in a bit, I'll find sources for that performance claim.

Edit:
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2014/02/07/corsair-h105-review/2
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/corsair-hydro-h105-cpu-cooler-review/6/

Looks good! Thanks for the help.
 

Snakeyes

Member
Since I didn't get a response last time;

Is there currently a single card that could handle 4k at 60 fps in a what seems to be a non-resource heavy current-gen game (Street Fighter V)? I hear PS4 games are roughly equivalent to medium settings on PC, is this accurate?
 

MrMatt555

Member
So this is a follow-up to my previous thread where I couldn't determine the cause of my PC not relaying picture to my monitor. After taking it to a close friend who specializes in all things Computer, we determined my Motherboard was fried.

That's always fun.

He recommends me getting a new "tower" which basically means RIP my PC. On the one hand it sucks cuz it was a great comp with an i7 processor. On the other hand I feel I can get something better for less than what I paid for ($800) Since my GPU sucked anyways (gt 520) I wonder if I'm better off buying a new motherboard, or getting a whole new computer. It hurts, GAF. What do I do?

Edit: PC - Asus Essentio CM6830-US-3AA Desktop Computer - Intel Core i7 i7-2600 3.40 GHz
 
I need some advice on a situation I have. About a month and a half ago I bought the GTX 960 MSI Gaming edition 2G, and given that they had bundle it with Arkham Knight, a game I was eager to play, it seemed like the perfect time. Since I was short on money I just went for the 2G edition, thinking that 4Gb of ram was unneccesary and not worth the 35 dollars difference (that's the difference between the two versions here in Chile). Sadly for me, after Arkham Knight release, the textures option clearly states that a 3Gb or higher graphic's card is needed in order to play at normal, otherwise I just have to do with low textures. This bothers me a lot since I can play other demanding games like Crysis 3 or Assassin's Creed IV and Unity on high-ultra settings.

The thing is, I can't ask for a refund and then buy a 4G, I would have to sell it myself and only then buy the new one, so my question is, do you think it's worth it?

My complete PC specs are:

-Intel Core i5-3570k
-6 GB RAM
-1TB HDD
-GTX 960 Gaming edition 2G

I was also thinking of upgrading to 8 GB RAM, do you think it's worth it?

No one?
 

ricki42

Member
My PC - Asus Essentio CM6830-US-3AA Desktop Computer - Intel Core i7 i7-2600 3.40 GHz

It's probably not worth replacing the motherboard, though it would be the cheapest fix depending on how much you are willing to spend. It looks like the PSU is only 300 W, so you're anyway pretty limited if you want to upgrade the GPU. You can probably reuse some parts though if you want to build from scratch. You can still use the RAM and the harddrive. Maybe add a smaller SSD for the OS, since the HDD is rather slow. I don't know if you can reuse the case, it's hard to tell from the pictures if it's a standard size and what PSU and GPU it would fit. But you can probably salvage the optical drive if you need it.
If you plan to build a new PC, fill in the [Basic Desktop Questions] in the OP, things like your budget.
 

ricki42

Member
I need some advice on a situation I have. About a month and a half ago I bought the GTX 960 MSI Gaming edition 2G, and given that they had bundle it with Arkham Knight, a game I was eager to play, it seemed like the perfect time. Since I was short on money I just went for the 2G edition, thinking that 4Gb of ram was unneccesary and not worth the 35 dollars difference (that's the difference between the two versions here in Chile). Sadly for me, after Arkham Knight release, the textures option clearly states that a 3Gb or higher graphic's card is needed in order to play at normal, otherwise I just have to do with low textures. This bothers me a lot since I can play other demanding games like Crysis 3 or Assassin's Creed IV and Unity on high-ultra settings.

The thing is, I can't ask for a refund and then buy a 4G, I would have to sell it myself and only then buy the new one, so my question is, do you think it's worth it?

My complete PC specs are:

-Intel Core i5-3570k
-6 GB RAM
-1TB HDD
-GTX 960 Gaming edition 2G

I was also thinking of upgrading to 8 GB RAM, do you think it's worth it?


I don't think anyone but you can answer that. How much would you get for the card, how much would the new one cost, and how much are those textures worth to you? I also wouldn't necessarily use Batman: Arkham Knight as a benchmark for how games should run on PC...
 

Cake Boss

Banned
Guys I am looking at building my first PC and I saw this motherboard plus older generation I7 combo used for $175, is this a good deal?

ASUS P6TD Deluxe - motherboard - ATX - LGA1366 Socket - X58 Series

+

Intel® Core™ i7-960 Processor
(8M Cache, 3.20 GHz, 4.80 GT/s Intel® QPI)

for $175 Canadian?

I know its about 5 years old. worth it for that price for an I7?
 

oneida

Cock Strain, Lifetime Warranty
god fucking damnit, this problem just won't die. 2 months, maybe more. I've tried everything. this fucking sucks.

I still don't have sound. no one has got the missing files I need - even AMD support just talks me in circles - and I can't even reinstall windows. the foolproof solution doesn't fucking work because anytime I try to do it I get this error screen:

KVct6x4h.jpg
fuck this I just want to use my computer again :(
 

SRG01

Member
god fucking damnit, this problem just won't die. 2 months, maybe more. I've tried everything. this fucking sucks.

I still don't have sound. no one has got the missing files I need - even AMD support just talks me in circles - and I can't even reinstall windows. the foolproof solution doesn't fucking work because anytime I try to do it I get this error screen:


fuck this I just want to use my computer again :(

Sorry, are you on a pre-built or a custom build?

edit: Just read the post history... you might actually be suffering from some sort of hardware failure.
 

oneida

Cock Strain, Lifetime Warranty
Sorry, are you on a pre-built or a custom build?

edit: Just read the post history... you might actually be suffering from some sort of hardware failure.
this whole process has been so unbelievably frustrating.

the reason I don't think it was a hardware failure is I remember vividly when what I believe caused the problem occurred. I was installing this stupid usb wifi adapter because I'm home for the summer and my family's house only has one Ethernet cable, everyone is just on wifi. while it's installing AVG pops up, I say yeah do whatever you want. no sound since.

it's a problem other people seem to have had and I've tried fixes which work for them and not me. sfc scannow revealed the files I was missing but I guess no one's got them. i really don't know what to do at this point. I hate using my computer now.
 
OK, so I'm in the middle of an internal debate about water cooling the build I detailed in my previous post here. However, in case I do want to do it, I think the one thing that I'll need help with deciding on the most is coolant.

Now I know that some people are distilled water purists, but I'm looking to go towards a red nanofluid (NOT a dye, as apparently red dye is full of horror stories) and I have no way of telling what liquids ARE actual nanofluids except for the Mayhem Pastel line. Could someone help fill me in on this, and if they can, recommend which brand of red nanofluid I should get?

Relatedly, I know that for effective OC'ing of CPUs and GPUs, you likely need a double radiator if you're working with a 45 mm thick rad. How does this change if you make the radiator thicker (assume the fans will be in push/pull towards the inside of the case)? And what about components such as VRAM (since I'm pretty sure the RoG boards will have hybrid VRAM heatsinks)?
 

RGM79

Member
Guys I am looking at building my first PC and I saw this motherboard plus older generation I7 combo used for $175, is this a good deal?

ASUS P6TD Deluxe - motherboard - ATX - LGA1366 Socket - X58 Series

+

Intel® Core™ i7-960 Processor
(8M Cache, 3.20 GHz, 4.80 GT/s Intel® QPI)

for $175 Canadian?

I know its about 5 years old. worth it for that price for an I7?

Depends on what you want to do with the PC. If you don't need the absolute highest end performance, then it's not bad, especially if the seller can demonstrate that it's in working order with no issues. You can overclock it and get very acceptable performance in most games.

The tradeoffs are that well, X58 is quite old so you won't be getting any recent tech. The motherboard has no USB 3.0 ports, for example. And there's the risk that if the motherboard breaks down, you will either have to buy another used X58 motherboard or just go with a brand new processor and motherboard.

this whole process has been so unbelievably frustrating.

the reason I don't think it was a hardware failure is I remember vividly when what I believe caused the problem occurred. I was installing this stupid usb wifi adapter because I'm home for the summer and my family's house only has one Ethernet cable, everyone is just on wifi. while it's installing AVG pops up, I say yeah do whatever you want. no sound since.

it's a problem other people seem to have had and I've tried fixes which work for them and not me. sfc scannow revealed the files I was missing but I guess no one's got them. i really don't know what to do at this point. I hate using my computer now.

Well, some kind of hardware failure would explain why for some reason you cannot even reformat and reinstall Windows.
 

oneida

Cock Strain, Lifetime Warranty
I'll put up the bat signal once again just in case. If anyone's got these files, I need them :(

> SystemRootWinSxSTempInFlight5493243309b9d001df780000ec114c13amd64_mic
> rosoft-windows-u..ed-telemetry-client_31bf3856ad364e35_6.3.9600.17842_none_90da81a4dac50d54
> SystemRootWinSxSTempInFlight576aa73609b9d00159790000ec114c13amd64_mic
> rosoft-windows-u..ed-telemetry-client_31bf3856ad364e35_6.3.9600.17842_none_90da81a4dac50d54
> SystemRootWinSxSamd64_prncacla.inf_31bf3856ad364e35_6.3.9600.17415_none_
> 95dd5540d57f8c01Amd64
> SystemRootWinSxSTempInFlight9644903e0ab9d00115c30000ec114c13amd64_mic
> rosoft-windows-u..ed-telemetry-client_31bf3856ad364e35_6.3.9600.17842_none_90da81a4dac50d54
> SystemRootWinSxSTempInFlightbfa2ef3e0ab9d0011ec30000ec114c13amd64_mic
> rosoft-windows-u..ed-telemetry-client_31bf3856ad364e35_6.3.9600.17842_none_90da81a4dac50d54
 

lumi7890

Member
pc gaf I have a question (well more of a concern) so, recently (a few hours ago for the matter of fact) I switch out my gtx 980 for a g1 980 ti, and you see when I attempt to removed my 980 I um kinda broke it's pcie slot.
To be specific, the tab that holds the card in place popped off, now I did manage to put the tab back on and when fooling around with it, it seem like I fixed it (all though it is a bit looser then the other pcie tab).
in anycase, my concern is (if for whatever reason I have use the slot), that if the slot will be alright, in other words did I break my slot or is the tab superfluous to the slot itself ? now I'm not using the slot right now, for my ti is in a different slot. so, weather I broke my other slot or not it does not affect me right now. I was just wondering in case I used it in the future.
 
pc gaf I have a question (well more of a concern) so, recently (a few hours ago for the matter of fact) I switch out my gtx 980 for a g1 980 ti, and you see when I attempt to removed my 980 I um kinda broke it's pcie slot.
To be specific, the tab that holds the card in place popped off, now I did manage to put the tab back on and when fooling around with it, it seem like I fixed it (all though it is a bit looser then the other pcie tab).
in anycase, my concern is (if for whatever reason I have use the slot), that if the slot will be alright, in other words did I break my slot or is the tab superfluous to the slot itself ? now I'm not using the slot right now for my ti is in a different slot. so weather I broke my other slot or not it does not affect me right now I was just wondering in case I used it in the future.

Happens often, not a problem.
 

RGM79

Member
pc gaf I have a question (well more of a concern) so, recently (a few hours ago for the matter of fact) I switch out my gtx 980 for a g1 980 ti, and you see when I attempt to removed my 980 I um kinda broke it's pcie slot.
To be specific, the tab that holds the card in place popped off, now I did manage to put the tab back on and when fooling around with it, it seem like I fixed it (all though it is a bit looser then the other pcie tab).
in anycase, my concern is (if for whatever reason I have use the slot), that if the slot will be alright, in other words did I break my slot or is the tab superfluous to the slot itself ? now I'm not using the slot right now, for my ti is in a different slot. so, weather I broke my other slot or not it does not affect me right now. I was just wondering in case I used it in the future.

The slot is what matters. The tab helps hold down the card and prevent it from coming out, but it's not the only thing holding it down. There's still the screw at the end of the metal bracket.
 

Mad Max

Member
I'm putting together a cheap (sub €400) SFF build as first PC for my stepdaughter. Right now it's not really for gaming use, and I mostly want something that's small and also fast doing general stuff (MS office, youtube, spotify, etc.). In the future I might add a budget dgpu, but for now I only want the option.

Anyway, this is what I have now:
-Proc: Pentium G3258 (€72)
-Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H97N-Wifi (€108)
-Mem: Kingston HyperX Fury 1866MHz 4GB (€28)
-SSD: Crucial BX100 120GB (€58)
-Case: Bitfenix Prodigy (€70)
-PSU: EVGA 430W (€49)

I think this build would satify the requirements I give above, but I'm wondering if I can do better. What bothers me is that I'm spending a lot on the mobo since I want wifi, and on the case because it seems to be the cheapest SFF case that actually manages to look good. Another thing is that I'm tempted to go with AMD: An A8-7600 + Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI combo costs about the same as the combo above, but can also be used to play many games (on low settings). Or is this making a huge mistake? (shitty single-threaded performance)
 
I got my Classified 980 Ti today. Stupid me forgot why I changed the UEFI to Legacy mode. I changed it back to UEFI to see if it would work this time and now I can't get to my BIOS and Windows takes a few minutes to load. For whatever reason, my 780 Ti and 980 Ti cause this issue with my P8P67 Pro. Since I sold my GTX 670, I have two options. Option one is to reset my bios and lose my overclock, thus having to overclock again and everything. Option two is to buy a cheap $30 card and hope it doesn't have the same issue, using the card to hopefully get in the bios and change to legacy mode. I think the 2nd option will work if it's an older card. My 670 worked in UEFI mode, but my 780 Ti and 980 Ti don't. Let this be a lesson to you, if it ain't broke, don't go changing settings and break it.
 

RGM79

Member
I'm putting together a cheap (sub €400) SFF build as first PC for my stepdaughter. Right now it's not really for gaming use, and I mostly want something that's small and also fast doing general stuff (MS office, youtube, spotify, etc.). In the future I might add a budget dgpu, but for now I only want the option.

Anyway, this is what I have now:
-Proc: Pentium G3258 (€72)
-Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H97N-Wifi (€108)
-Mem: Kingston HyperX Fury 1866MHz 4GB (€28)
-SSD: Crucial BX100 120GB (€58)
-Case: Bitfenix Prodigy (€70)
-PSU: EVGA 430W (€49)

I think this build would satify the requirements I give above, but I'm wondering if I can do better. What bothers me is that I'm spending a lot on the mobo since I want wifi, and on the case because it seems to be the cheapest SFF case that actually manages to look good. Another thing is that I'm tempted to go with AMD: An A8-7600 + Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI combo costs about the same as the combo above, but can also be used to play many games (on low settings). Or is this making a huge mistake? (shitty single-threaded performance)

What country are you in?

If you want to cut costs, consider looking at H81 or B85 motherboards. Some models still include built-in wifi and may be cheaper than H97 models. Another option might be to buy a mATX size motherboard which would be cheaper than mITX. For your wireless needs, buy a USB or PCI-E wifi adaptor.

There's a version of the Bitfenix Prodigy case for mATX size motherboards called the Prodigy M. I don't think it costs very differently than the regular Prodigy, so consider getting that with a cheap mATX motherboard.

H81/B85/H97 will only support 1333/1600MHz RAM. Buying 1866MHz won't matter, as it will be forced to run at the lower accepted speed by the motherboard. You might be able to save a few dollars if you look for 1600MHz RAM instead.

If you're intending to upgrade the PC for gaming purposes by adding a graphics card in, I think it'd be better to stick with Intel. What you need in the end will depend on the kind of games you will eventually want to play, though. In case you do go with the APU build, then you'll want higher speed memory as it will help the APU perform better for games.
 

Soulflarz

Banned
Since I got everything here

Send help. Building saturday. Ridiculous urge to go over my budget by $200 and get a 980TI instead of a 980 with money I swear I have I'm not lying at all ;-;
 

Mad Max

Member
What country are you in?

If you want to cut costs, consider looking at H81 or B85 motherboards. Some models still include built-in wifi and may be cheaper than H97 models. Another option might be to buy a mATX size motherboard which would be cheaper than mITX. For your wireless needs, buy a USB or PCI-E wifi adaptor.

There's a version of the Bitfenix Prodigy case for mATX size motherboards called the Prodigy M. I don't think it costs very differently than the regular Prodigy, so consider getting that with a cheap mATX motherboard.

H81/B85/H97 will only support 1333/1600MHz RAM. Buying 1866MHz won't matter, as it will be forced to run at the lower accepted speed by the motherboard. You might be able to save a few dollars if you look for 1600MHz RAM instead.

If you're intending to upgrade the PC for gaming purposes by adding a graphics card in, I think it'd be better to stick with Intel. What you need in the end will depend on the kind of games you will eventually want to play, though. In case you do go with the APU build, then you'll want higher speed memory as it will help the APU perform better for games.

I'm dutch, so these prices include our generous 21% sales tax.. :p

But I've looked at mATX boards and they're a lot cheaper indeed (around €60). The problem is that the prodigy M costs about €10 more for some reason, and the cheapest wireless adaptor that's decent (5Ghz, 802.11n/ac, doesn't overheat) costs like €39. So the price comes out the same in the end.

I also picked the ram mostly because it was cheap, however I'll keep in mind that it's speed is not actually supported. Maybe I should just go for the Z97 version of the mobo (about €8 more), since I'm currently using a delidded 4670K in my main PC which could serve as an upgrade part later. (can't really sell it anyway)
 
So repeating what i said earlier if in case no one saw it



Are there any recommendations for surge protectors ?

Especialy When building a pc from the start aka instead of putting the psu directly to the wall outlet, I put the power cord into the surge protector itself and turn both the psu off and the surge protector when i start building from scratch ?
 

Soulflarz

Banned
Well, either go with a 970, or a 980ti. The 980 doesn't make sense right now.

Blerg. My mobo doesn't accept an SLI, and I'd rather go single card anyways.

EVGA has their 980TI superclock or whatever for $680. I paid $510 for my 980...
(well and tax so like 560 blerg)


*wants above a 970, doesnt have enough for a 980TI*
suffering :V
 
Did Samsung ever fix the issues with the 840 Evo SSD? I have one sitting around that I want to use in my new build, but the issues I'm reading are worrying.
 
Blerg. My mobo doesn't accept an SLI, and I'd rather go single card anyways.

EVGA has their 980TI superclock or whatever for $680. I paid $510 for my 980...
(well and tax so like 560 blerg)


*wants above a 970, doesnt have enough for a 980TI*
suffering :V

Be happy that you are not in the EU at all. The evga is about 900$ here :p

Did Samsung ever fix the issues with the 840 Evo SSD? I have one sitting around that I want to use in my new build, but the issues I'm reading are worrying.

They released new firmware for it, which fixed it for a lot of people, but some still report poor performance.
 

BeEatNU

WORLDSTAAAAAAR
Last call!

Selling my EVGA Titan X and my Asus Swift ROG monitor. Both are in perfect working order and have original box and said items. If anyone is interested. Let me know. I also do free next day shipping :)
 

RGM79

Member
So repeating what i said earlier if in case no one saw it



Are there any recommendations for surge protectors ?

Especialy When building a pc from the start aka instead of putting the psu directly to the wall outlet, I put the power cord into the surge protector itself and turn both the psu off and the surge protector when i start building from scratch ?

I don't really understand your question. Why do you need to plug in your PSU before you finish putting together the PC? Just plug it in last.

All surge protectors are more or less the same, there's not really any you should avoid as far as I know (unless it looks highly suspicious and/or has bad reviews, of course). If you are interested in high end protection, look into getting a uninterruptible power supply (UPS) or at least make sure the surge protector you are buying has surge protection and isn't just a power outlet strip that acts as a splitter with no surge protection.

Fuck it. Does EVGA charge sales tax in IL? Couldnt find anything on it online.

Call or email EVGA customer service?
 
Now I know that some people are distilled water purists, but I'm looking to go towards a red nanofluid (NOT a dye, as apparently red dye is full of horror stories) and I have no way of telling what liquids ARE actual nanofluids except for the Mayhem Pastel line. Could someone help fill me in on this, and if they can, recommend which brand of red nanofluid I should get?

Relatedly, I know that for effective OC'ing of CPUs and GPUs, you likely need a double radiator if you're working with a 45 mm thick rad. How does this change if you make the radiator thicker (assume the fans will be in push/pull towards the inside of the case)? And what about components such as VRAM (since I'm pretty sure the RoG boards will have hybrid VRAM heatsinks)?

It's been shown over and over that the distilled water is still the way to go. The other fluids will stain your tubing and, worse, build up inside your blocks which will just decrease your efficiency. People say go with distilled water for a reason; because it works. Adding anything to your water is going to increase the specific heat, which means decreasing heat transfer.

Evidence for the unbelievers

If you make the radiator thicker, you are going to have more surface area for cooling, but at lower total flow speed.
 
I don't really understand your question. Why do you need to plug in your PSU before you finish putting together the PC? Just plug it in last.

All surge protectors are more or less the same, there's not really any you should avoid as far as I know (unless it looks highly suspicious and/or has bad reviews, of course). If you are interested in high end protection, look into getting a uninterruptible power supply (UPS) or at least make sure the surge protector you are buying has surge protection and isn't just a power outlet strip that acts as a splitter with no surge protection.



Call or email EVGA customer service?
Oh got it ! ^_^

Sorry i didn't paraphrase my words too well ... What i wanted to say was just like when people would build pc from the start, some would plug the psu to the wall outlet, turn off the psu and touch it as a procedure when building a pc to prevent ED. i was wondering if I could do that too if I use a surge protector instead of plugging it into the wall socket as a safety procedure . as this is my first pc build and all .. I don't want to fuck things up
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom