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[RGM79]

I'm dutch, so these prices include our generous 21% sales tax..

But I've looked at mATX boards and they're a lot cheaper indeed (around €60). The problem is that the prodigy M costs about €10 more for some reason, and the cheapest wireless adaptor that's decent (5Ghz, 802.11n/ac, doesn't overheat) costs like €39. So the price comes out the same in the end.

I also picked the ram mostly because it was cheap, however I'll keep in mind that it's speed is not actually supported. Maybe I should just go for the Z97 version of the mobo (about €8 more), since I'm currently using a delidded 4670K in my main PC which could serve as an upgrade part later. (can't really sell it anyway)

I am not totally sure I even have the right country selected, so I hope this parts list works for you, it does come in at under 400 Euros.



1 x Samsung SSD 850 EVO 120GB, SATA 6Gb/s (MZ-75E120B)
1 x Intel Pentium G3258 Anniversary Edition, 2x 3.20GHz, boxed (BX80646G3258)
1 x Kingston HyperX FURY blau DIMM 4GB, DDR3-1866, CL10 (HX318C10F/4)
1 x ASRock Z97M-ITX/ac (90-MXGW00-A0UAYZ)
1 x BitFenix Prodigy weiß, Mini-ITX (BFC-PRO-300-WWXKW-RP)
1 x EVGA 500W ATX 2.3 (100-W1-0500-KR)

Oh got it ! ^_^

Sorry i didn't paraphrase my words too well ... What i wanted to say was just like when people would build pc from the start, some would plug the psu to the wall outlet, turn off the psu and touch it as a procedure when building a pc to prevent ED. i was wondering if I could do that too if I use a surge protector instead of plugging it into the wall socket as a safety procedure . as this is my first pc build and all .. I don't want to fuck things up

I don't know.

Confession: I have never bothered to ground myself when working on computer parts. Never had a case of ESD and/or burning out a computer part, but then again, I don't live or work anywhere that ESD is really a problem in the first place. I work in a PC shop where I disassemble and reassemble PCs all day.. and no one there including me even has an electrostatic wristband. Your situation will vary, of course.

Maybe this article will help, #4 seems to be what you're talking about.

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

I am not totally sure I even have the right country selected, so I hope this parts list works for you, it does come in at under 400 Euros.

Österreich is Austria, they have lower tax than the Netherlands I think. 20% vs 21%.

 

[StarlordDial]

I am not totally sure I even have the right country selected, so I hope this parts list works for you, it does come in at under 400 Euros.



1 x Samsung SSD 850 EVO 120GB, SATA 6Gb/s (MZ-75E120B)
1 x Intel Pentium G3258 Anniversary Edition, 2x 3.20GHz, boxed (BX80646G3258)
1 x Kingston HyperX FURY blau DIMM 4GB, DDR3-1866, CL10 (HX318C10F/4)
1 x ASRock Z97M-ITX/ac (90-MXGW00-A0UAYZ)
1 x BitFenix Prodigy weiß, Mini-ITX (BFC-PRO-300-WWXKW-RP)
1 x EVGA 500W ATX 2.3 (100-W1-0500-KR)



I don't know.

Confession: I have never bothered to ground myself when working on computer parts. Never had a case of ESD and/or burning out a computer part, but then again, I don't live or work anywhere that ESD is really a problem in the first place. I work in a PC shop where I disassemble and reassemble PCs all day.. and no one there including me even has an electrostatic wristband. Your situation will vary, of course.

Maybe this article will help, #4 seems to be what you're talking about.

Thanks! I'm in Hawaii so i'll take your word for it but having extra caution is still advisable right ? :3 anyway thanks ! ^_^

 

[RGM79]

Österreich is Austria, they have lower tax than the Netherlands I think. 20% vs 21%.

Yeah, and there's also the issue that he might not even have access to any of those retailers.

I'm pretty out of it, I haven't slept yet and I need to wake up in 5 hours. I'm gonna go now... hopefully it was of some help.

Thanks! I'm in Hawaii so i'll take your word for it but having extra caution is still advisable right ? :3 anyway thanks ! ^_^

Nothing wrong with extra caution.

 

[scitek]

Hey guys, can anyone help me get 3D Vision to work? The only game I've gotten it to work with so far is Tomb Raider 2013, and that's just because it has a specific box to check inside the launcher. I've also tried Helix modding a couple of games like MIrror's Edge to no avail. Any ideas?

 

[opticalmace]

I got my Classified 980 Ti today. Stupid me forgot why I changed the UEFI to Legacy mode. I changed it back to UEFI to see if it would work this time and now I can't get to my BIOS and Windows takes a few minutes to load. For whatever reason, my 780 Ti and 980 Ti cause this issue with my P8P67 Pro. Since I sold my GTX 670, I have two options. Option one is to reset my bios and lose my overclock, thus having to overclock again and everything. Option two is to buy a cheap $30 card and hope it doesn't have the same issue, using the card to hopefully get in the bios and change to legacy mode. I think the 2nd option will work if it's an older card. My 670 worked in UEFI mode, but my 780 Ti and 980 Ti don't. Let this be a lesson to you, if it ain't broke, don't go changing settings and break it.

Sounds weird. Your CPU probably has an IGP, what about just removing the vid card?

 

[Hazaro]

It's been shown over and over that the distilled water is still the way to go. The other fluids will stain your tubing and, worse, build up inside your blocks which will just decrease your efficiency. People say go with distilled water for a reason; because it works. Adding anything to your water is going to increase the specific heat, which means decreasing heat transfer.

Evidence for the unbelievers

If you make the radiator thicker, you are going to have more surface area for cooling, but at lower total flow speed.

Been a while since Skinneelabs was linked here. Dumb chips don't use any power to warrant water

 

[Jzero]

Do the Fury cards do anything that the 390X cards don't? (besides HBM)

I kinda don't want to wait and the 390X is a bit cheaper.

 

[RGM79]

Sounds weird. Your CPU probably has an IGP, what about just removing the vid card?

No integrated graphics for X58.

Edit: Wow, I really am out of it. I read P67 and thought X58.

 

[Hazaro]

Do the Fury cards do anything that the 390X cards don't? (besides HBM)

I kinda don't want to wait and the 390X is a bit cheaper.

Actually be fast?
I'd get a 290 or a Fury if 290 performance isn't enough, the 8GB is too weird and the 390's aren't worth the extra money imo.
More info would help.

 

[RGM79]

Actually be fast?
I'd get a 290 or a Fury if 290 performance isn't enough, the 8GB is too weird and the 390's aren't worth the extra money imo.
More info would help.

Hey Haz, what's your take on this article about the 390X and the Fury?

 

[Mad Max]

I am not totally sure I even have the right country selected, so I hope this parts list works for you, it does come in at under 400 Euros.



1 x Samsung SSD 850 EVO 120GB, SATA 6Gb/s (MZ-75E120B)
1 x Intel Pentium G3258 Anniversary Edition, 2x 3.20GHz, boxed (BX80646G3258)
1 x Kingston HyperX FURY blau DIMM 4GB, DDR3-1866, CL10 (HX318C10F/4)
1 x ASRock Z97M-ITX/ac (90-MXGW00-A0UAYZ)
1 x BitFenix Prodigy weiß, Mini-ITX (BFC-PRO-300-WWXKW-RP)
1 x EVGA 500W ATX 2.3 (100-W1-0500-KR)

Thanks, I don't live in Germany but it's close enough and I ended up ordering something very similar to this. I'll try to post a photo after I put it together tomorrow.

 

[Nostremitus]

So... I've got an interesting issue. I just restored Windows 10 in order to see if a "fresh" install would help with an audio issue that cropped up three builds ago. I backed up my data onto my storage drive and disconnected it during the restore process. After the restore, windows will not register that the storage drive exists. It doesn't even show up in disk management even though I can still boot to the linux partition on that drive through BIOS.

The drive works perfectly, but Windows refuses to see it.

Any ideas?


edit: Ok, played with BIOS, reorganized boot sequence, reverted back to original boot sequence, and now it's reading the drive but my internet isnt working. Ethernet or Wifi. All of my other devices are connected to the router and are working fine, Im typing this on the Wii U gamepad. This is starting to get frustrating.

 

[Olliewilldie]

I have a gaming pc from 2011 which just doesn't cut the mustard at all anymore. All I need it to do for the next 2-3 years is 1080p (via my TV). I would like it to run at 60fps if at all possible but not HUGELY fussed as long as it's smooth.

My current spec is as follows.

CPU - AMD Phenom II X4 Quad Core 955 Black Edition "125W Edition" 3.20GHz
8gb ram
Mobo - Gigabyte GA-880GM-USB3 AMD 880G (AM3+) DDR3
GPU - Sapphire 11180-00-40R HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCIE Graphics Card
500w corsair PSU

Basically I want to know if I am better off to just scrap the above and start again or just get a new GPU (r9 280 / 960 whatever).

I don't need it to run on MAXIMUM with super cool hair physics but I would like it to look nice and run smoothly

I can spend around £200/300 now and probably put another £700-1000 (if a whole new PC is required) next month if required but I'd rather not if I can get away with just a GPU.

I will be playing things like Witcher / Fallout / Heroes of the storm / Woflenstien and lots and lots and lots of 4X games Civ / endless legend etc but these 4X games run perfectly fine already.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[knitoe]

So... I've got an interesting issue. I just restored Windows 10 in order to see if a "fresh" install would help with an audio issue that cropped up three builds ago. I backed up my data onto my storage drive and disconnected it during the restore process. After the restore, windows will not register that the storage drive exists. It doesn't even show up in disk management even though I can still boot to the linux partition on that drive through BIOS.

The drive works perfectly, but Windows refuses to see it.

Any ideas?


edit: Ok, played with BIOS, reorganized boot sequence, reverted back to original boot sequence, and now it's reading the drive but my internet isnt working. Ethernet or Wifi. All of my other devices are connected to the router and are working fine, Im typing this on the Wii U gamepad. This is starting to get frustrating.

Did you install the ethernet and/or wifi drivers? See anything in Device Manager.

 

[ohyouagain]

I have a gaming pc from 2011 which just doesn't cut the mustard at all anymore. All I need it to do for the next 2-3 years is 1080p (via my TV). I would like it to run at 60fps if at all possible but not HUGELY fussed as long as it's smooth.

My current spec is as follows.

CPU - AMD Phenom II X4 Quad Core 955 Black Edition "125W Edition" 3.20GHz
8gb ram
Mobo - Gigabyte GA-880GM-USB3 AMD 880G (AM3+) DDR3
GPU - Sapphire 11180-00-40R HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCIE Graphics Card
500w corsair PSU

Basically I want to know if I am better off to just scrap the above and start again or just get a new GPU (r9 280 / 960 whatever).

I don't need it to run on MAXIMUM with super cool hair physics but I would like it to look nice and run smoothly

I can spend around £200/300 now and probably put another £700-1000 (if a whole new PC is required) next month if required but I'd rather not if I can get away with just a GPU.

I will be playing things like Witcher / Fallout / Heroes of the storm / Woflenstien and lots and lots and lots of 4X games Civ / endless legend etc but these 4X games run perfectly fine already.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Depending on the resolution, you could get away with a i3-4160 / GTX750Ti combo. It would be good enough to reach 30 FPS@1080p for what you listed above. But the best advice would be to wait until you have all the cash at hand so you game with the cheapest hardware available for the level of performance you aim the moment you turn your PC on for the first time (does it make sense ?)

If I was you,

Spoiler

I would put my bucks in a widescreen G-Sync screen.

 

[kharma45]

I have a gaming pc from 2011 which just doesn't cut the mustard at all anymore. All I need it to do for the next 2-3 years is 1080p (via my TV). I would like it to run at 60fps if at all possible but not HUGELY fussed as long as it's smooth.

My current spec is as follows.

CPU - AMD Phenom II X4 Quad Core 955 Black Edition "125W Edition" 3.20GHz
8gb ram
Mobo - Gigabyte GA-880GM-USB3 AMD 880G (AM3+) DDR3
GPU - Sapphire 11180-00-40R HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 PCIE Graphics Card
500w corsair PSU

Basically I want to know if I am better off to just scrap the above and start again or just get a new GPU (r9 280 / 960 whatever).

I don't need it to run on MAXIMUM with super cool hair physics but I would like it to look nice and run smoothly

I can spend around £200/300 now and probably put another £700-1000 (if a whole new PC is required) next month if required but I'd rather not if I can get away with just a GPU.

I will be playing things like Witcher / Fallout / Heroes of the storm / Woflenstien and lots and lots and lots of 4X games Civ / endless legend etc but these 4X games run perfectly fine already.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

If it were me I'd go the whole hog and do a new machine. You could get a new GPU and OC your CPU, from which you'd get appreciable gains but the 955 is a bit long in the tooth now.

This is what I'd get for the £200-300 mark

PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/PCsRxr
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/PCsRxr/by_merchant/

CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 87.0 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.68 @ Amazon UK)
Other: MSI GeForce GTX 970 1279MHz 4GB PCI-Express 3.0 HDMI Gaming TFV (£259.98)
Total: £285.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 12:38 BST+0100

The R9 290 and 290X is also an option but with that 500w Corsair PSU I wouldn't want to push it too hard (assuming it's one of their lower end units) if you were to put an R9 290 in plus OC the CPU. The 970 is much easier on juice.

 

[JbstormburstADV]

It's been shown over and over that the distilled water is still the way to go. The other fluids will stain your tubing and, worse, build up inside your blocks which will just decrease your efficiency. People say go with distilled water for a reason; because it works. Adding anything to your water is going to increase the specific heat, which means decreasing heat transfer.

Evidence for the unbelievers

If you make the radiator thicker, you are going to have more surface area for cooling, but at lower total flow speed.

My thing is that while distilled is baby easy to clean after, you also have a ridiculously short six month turnover rate, and I want to avoid having to do maintenance too often. After all, the Mayhems Pastel seies supposedly gets two years of operation before draining.

Also, I've been doing some research, and I have to ask as a counterpoint how many of those people who ended up with gunk added something to their coolant, such as additional biocide. Ì mean, the manufacturers tell us about not doing that for a reason, right? But I digress.

And I was looking more for some actual numeric correlation between thickness and needed length to cool, unless this is a volume-related calculation.

 

[Audioboxer]

I'm needing to upgrade my i3-2100, motherboard and memory (still on DDR2). It seems AMD CPUs offer the best bang for buck? Cheaper than the i5s.

Any tips? Haven't changed my PC in a while. GFX card is okay for now, GTX 580. I don't do a lot of PC gaming, and am really more focussed on getting a quad core CPU.

So far, thinking

AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor
Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory

 

[Jeff Stephen]

I'm needing to upgrade my i3-2100, motherboard and memory (still on DDR2). It seems AMD CPUs offer the best bang for buck? Cheaper than the i5s.

Any tips? Haven't changed my PC in a while. GFX card is okay for now, GTX 580. I don't do a lot of PC gaming, and am really more focussed on getting a quad core CPU.

So far, thinking

AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor
Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory

Some surprisingly good deals on CPU/MB bundles at Microcenter, Intel or AMD. In-store only though.

 

[Audioboxer]

Some surprisingly good deals on CPU/MB bundles at Microcenter, Intel or AMD.

I'm in the UK

 

[LordAlu]

I'm needing to upgrade my i3-2100, motherboard and memory (still on DDR2). It seems AMD CPUs offer the best bang for buck? Cheaper than the i5s.

Any tips? Haven't changed my PC in a while. GFX card is okay for now, GTX 580. I don't do a lot of PC gaming, and am really more focussed on getting a quad core CPU.

So far, thinking

AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor
Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory

Intel processors are generally recommended due to their much higher IPC, lower TDP and upgrade potential. An i5-4460 will match or outperform an FX-8350 on pretty much everything except media creation.

Something like this would be better now and also in the long run:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£141.20 @ More Computers)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£89.96 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£71.03 @ More Computers)
Total: £302.19
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 14:44 BST+0100

You get the same amount of RAM along with a processor that matches/outperforms the FX-8350 but you also get a platform on which to improve - you could slap an i5-4690K or take the jump up to an i7 if necessary.

Skylake (the next generation of Intel stuff) is out in August so it may be worth hanging around to see what's there, although only the top-end K stuff will be available to begin with so it would be more expensive.

 

[Audioboxer]

Intel processors are generally recommended due to their much higher IPC, lower TDP and upgrade potential. An i5-4460 will match or outperform an FX-8350 on pretty much everything except media creation.

Something like this would be better now and also in the long run:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£141.20 @ More Computers)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£89.96 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£71.03 @ More Computers)
Total: £302.19
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 14:44 BST+0100

You get the same amount of RAM along with a processor that matches/outperforms the FX-8350 but you also get a platform on which to improve - you could slap an i5-4690K or take the jump up to an i7 if necessary.

Skylake (the next generation of Intel stuff) is out in August so it may be worth hanging around to see what's there, although only the top-end K stuff will be available to begin with so it would be more expensive.

Thanks, I'd probably rather stay intel.

Is this mobo around the best for that price? It makes my head spin the amount of motherboards going for around the same price.

 

[Olliewilldie]

If it were me I'd go the whole hog and do a new machine. You could get a new GPU and OC your CPU, from which you'd get appreciable gains but the 955 is a bit long in the tooth now.

This is what I'd get for the £200-300 mark

PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/PCsRxr
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/PCsRxr/by_merchant/

CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 87.0 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.68 @ Amazon UK)
Other: MSI GeForce GTX 970 1279MHz 4GB PCI-Express 3.0 HDMI Gaming TFV (£259.98)
Total: £285.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 12:38 BST+0100

The R9 290 and 290X is also an option but with that 500w Corsair PSU I wouldn't want to push it too hard (assuming it's one of their lower end units) if you were to put an R9 290 in plus OC the CPU. The 970 is much easier on juice.

If I get the GTX 970 I can see how that goes and always build around it at a later date if the PC isn't performing as I'd like I suppose.

I shall be ordering that then!

Thanks a lot.

 

[CreepingFear]

Sounds weird. Your CPU probably has an IGP, what about just removing the vid card?

The CPU does, the chipset for P67 was like the last chipset that does not support using the IGP of the CPU. I think my solution is going to be to go to Microcenter, buy EVGA GeForce 8400 GS for like $30, put it in and see if I can get in to my bios and change the UEFI mode.

 

[Nostremitus]

Did you install the ethernet and/or wifi drivers? See anything in Device Manager.

Sorry, left to go see Ant-Man. Yeah. the drivers were installed and i could connect to my router, but no internet access. The search bar and the start menu were also glitching out in strange ways so I just used the Windows Reset feature again and let it do it's thing while I was gone.

Things seem to be working again other than still not having any sound through Displayport, but that's been happening since three W10 builds ago. Hopefully Microsoft will fix it before 10 goes live, otherwise there may be a lot of people upset they can't hear anything without connecting their headphones.

 

[LordAlu]

Thanks, I'd probably rather stay intel.

Is this mobo around the best for that price? It makes my head spin the amount of motherboards going for around the same price.

Honestly it really depends on the kind of features you actually want from a motherboard. Some people will want SATA Express or M.2 slots, some will want USB 3.1 support, some will want more power phases for better overclocking and so on.

The Z97-D3H is a good board for that price range, you'd be looking at £50 more or so for the next "step up" (Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H) but whether you'd need any of the extra features would be up to you really.

 

[Audioboxer]

Honestly it really depends on the kind of features you actually want from a motherboard. Some people will want SATA Express or M.2 slots, some will want USB 3.1 support, some will want more power phases for better overclocking and so on.

The Z97-D3H is a good board for that price range, you'd be looking at £50 more or so for the next "step up" (Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H) but whether you'd need any of the extra features would be up to you really.

Not too fussed about tons of extras. A little headroom for overclocking would be nice. Is there a big difference up from the 4460 and 4690?

I've fired all the parts through Flubit so I'll see what prices I get. The white memory was £70 on Amazon, don't care about colour.

Also, what about an aftermarket cooler for those chips? Any ideas? Cheers

 

[LordAlu]

Not too fussed about tons of extras. A little headroom for overclocking would be nice. Is there a big difference up from the 4460 and 4690?

I've fired all the parts through Flubit so I'll see what prices I get. The white memory was £70 on Amazon, don't care about colour.

Also, what about an aftermarket cooler for those chips? Any ideas? Cheers

Other than the higher clock speed there's no difference - and that small of an increase doesn't make a big difference. If you were to go for something higher the next one to go for would be the 4690K and overclock it.

You don't need an aftermarket cooler unless you're overclocking or you find the stock cooler unbearably loud, which you shouldn't. I'd only look at an aftermarket one if you decide to get the 4690K.

 

[paskowitz]

Just out of curiosity, is there an AIO CPU cooler that performs >10% better than the Corsair H100i (what I have now)?

 

[Prime crotch]

How are seagate hdd nowadays? I hear the barracudas had some problems back in 08 but since then seagate kinda made up?

 

[hypernima]

So my friend is giving me a free 570 and i was thinking of making a secondary, small form factor and cheap computer build for streaming.

Would be good to go i5 or i7? and do any of you guys know about built in cap card and which has better qualities?

 

[Sectorseven]

Are 802.11ac routers backwards compatible with g and n devices?

 

[Jeff Stephen]

Are 802.11ac routers backwards compatible with g and n devices?

Yes.

 

[kharma45]

If I get the GTX 970 I can see how that goes and always build around it at a later date if the PC isn't performing as I'd like I suppose.

I shall be ordering that then!

Thanks a lot.

Could be better 970 prices elsewhere, or other merchants you prefer. Dabs was just one of the first I came across. Amazon were more expensive iirc and no free game.

What PSU exactly is it you have, meant to ask that.

How are seagate hdd nowadays? I hear the barracudas had some problems back in 08 but since then seagate kinda made up?

I still wouldn't buy one.

 

[ricki42]

Not too fussed about tons of extras. A little headroom for overclocking would be nice. Is there a big difference up from the 4460 and 4690?

Just to clarify: you can't overclock the 4460 (nor the 4690), it's locked. So you could in principle go with a cheaper motherboard as well. However, a Z97 motherboard will let you overclock a 4690k (or 4790k) if you decide to upgrade at some point. The 'k' processors are unlocked, so depending on how lucky you are with the specific chip you get, you can get even more performance out of it.

 

[Audioboxer]

Just to clarify: you can't overclock the 4460 (nor the 4690), it's locked. So you could in principle go with a cheaper motherboard as well. However, a Z97 motherboard will let you overclock a 4690k (or 4790k) if you decide to upgrade at some point. The 'k' processors are unlocked, so depending on how lucky you are with the specific chip you get, you can get even more performance out of it.

Yeah, I put a 4690k through Flubit. If I do go for it is the corsair hydro h80i a good cooling solution? I have an Antec P180 case so I think it's the only corsair fan/water hybrid that would fit.

 

[Denali]

Finalized build. Looking for any final comments and/or changes I should make before I pull the trigger on the last remaining items I need. I've put asterisks next to the items I already own, so those aren't up for change.


PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RHk4Vn
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RHk4Vn/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($83.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.07 @ Amazon) ***
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($353.99 @ NCIX US) ***
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg) ***
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($76.81 @ Newegg)

Total: $1163.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 11:04 EDT-0400



Do I need to worry about purchasing extra case fans for the time being, or should the case/cooler stock fans be sufficient? Is there anything else I'm missing? I have the OS purchased already.

 

[LordAlu]

How are seagate hdd nowadays? I hear the barracudas had some problems back in 08 but since then seagate kinda made up?

I've had no problems with the two in mine, but likewise I know people who've had them six months and they've failed. The same could be said about Western Digital and HGST. It's the luck of the draw really.

So my friend is giving me a free 570 and i was thinking of making a secondary, small form factor and cheap computer build for streaming.

Would be good to go i5 or i7? and do any of you guys know about built in cap card and which has better qualities?

If you're only gonna use it to capture from another device and then stream it, an i5 is fine. If you're gonna play a game on it and stream at the same time, an i7 would be better.

In terms of capture cards, I particularly like the StarTech PEXHDCAP, but others may be able to suggest something?

Yeah, I put a 4690k through Flubit. If I do go for it is the corsair hydro h80i a good cooling solution? I have an Antec P180 case so I think it's the only corsair fan/water hybrid that would fit.

You don't have to go water. I have an i5-3570K using a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO clocked at 4.4GHz and it never goes above about 65C.

 

[Olliewilldie]

Could be better 970 prices elsewhere, or other merchants you prefer. Dabs was just one of the first I came across. Amazon were more expensive iirc and no free game.

What PSU exactly is it you have, meant to ask that.



I still wouldn't buy one.

Yea I am going to shop around when I get home from work tonight.

I have the Corsair CX 500W I believe!

 

[scitek]

OK, so I figured out I need Nvidia's 3DTV Play, and I'm using the trial now, BUT I can't buy it anymore? What do? Does Tridef do the same thing?

 

[kharma45]

Finalized build. Looking for any final comments and/or changes I should make before I pull the trigger on the last remaining items I need. I've put asterisks next to the items I already own, so those aren't up for change.


PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RHk4Vn
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RHk4Vn/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($83.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.07 @ Amazon) ***
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($353.99 @ NCIX US) ***
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg) ***
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($76.81 @ Newegg)

Total: $1163.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 11:04 EDT-0400



Do I need to worry about purchasing extra case fans for the time being, or should the case/cooler stock fans be sufficient? Is there anything else I'm missing? I have the OS purchased already.

If you're just gaming you don't need 16GB RAM, 8GB is plenty. If you're not going to SLI I'd swap the PSU to the quieter and much newer EVGA G2 550w for the same sort of money.

 

[RGM79]

Just out of curiosity, is there an AIO CPU cooler that performs >10% better than the Corsair H100i (what I have now)?

Maybe the higher end coolers like the NZXT kraken X61 or Swiftech's H220-X or H240-X when paired with some of the best possible fans. Are you unhappy with your H100i's performance? It probably wouldn't be worth the money to upgrade to either one, unless you had money to burn and didn't mind spending in the pursuit of best possible cooling.

So my friend is giving me a free 570 and i was thinking of making a secondary, small form factor and cheap computer build for streaming.

Would be good to go i5 or i7? and do any of you guys know about built in cap card and which has better qualities?

An i5 processor should do you just fine. Even better if it's an overclockable i5 processor. I'm not that knowledgeable about streaming, but it seems like Elgato is popular in that area and most capture solutions are external rather than internal.

Finalized build. Looking for any final comments and/or changes I should make before I pull the trigger on the last remaining items I need. I've put asterisks next to the items I already own, so those aren't up for change.


PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RHk4Vn
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RHk4Vn/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($83.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.07 @ Amazon) ***
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($353.99 @ NCIX US) ***
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg) ***
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($76.81 @ Newegg)

Total: $1163.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-17 11:04 EDT-0400

Do I need to worry about purchasing extra case fans for the time being, or should the case/cooler stock fans be sufficient? Is there anything else I'm missing? I have the OS purchased already.

Looks alright to me. You should be alright with stock cooling, it's not as though your PC will overheat if you don't add extra fans. As I recall, the Define R4 has the option of covering up some vents with sound suppressing foam panels. Your temperatures will vary with and without those panels, so just try it out first. Then if it turns out the PC is too warm, you can easily add fans later.

 

[BolognaOni]

And I was looking more for some actual numeric correlation between thickness and needed length to cool, unless this is a volume-related calculation.

It's a surface area / fan pressure issue. Cooling effectiveness is basically related to total fin surface area. If you're cooling with a fan though, it gets much more complicated. Longer/denser hestsink fins mean you need more fan power to drive the same CFM.

Practically this means a double wide radiator is significantly better than a double thick one (assuming you care about noise).

IMO, if you're not going to go double wide, its probably better to stick with heat pipe coolers. You'll get better performance for a given cost and noise level.

 

[Denali]

If you're just gaming you don't need 16GB RAM, 8GB is plenty. If you're not going to SLI I'd swap the PSU to the quieter and much newer EVGA G2 550w for the same sort of money.

I'm all about getting this thing as quiet as possible, so I went ahead and swapped the PSU to the one you suggested. PC Part Picker is saying that the high-end estimated wattage is about 350W. If I start really overclocking this thing, there's no chance I'll get close to the limits of a 550W PSU? No plans to SLI in the next couple years.


EDIT: One more thing I meant to ask. The Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL CPU Cooler I went with; does it come with it's own thermal compound? Should I be good to go with that?

 

[RGM79]

I'm all about getting this thing as quiet as possible, so I went ahead and swapped the PSU to the one you suggested. PC Part Picker is saying that the high-end estimated wattage is about 350W. If I start really overclocking this thing, there's no chance I'll get close to the limits of a 550W PSU? No plans to SLI in the next couple years.

Go up to 650 watts if you like. That will be plenty of wattage for overclocking and supporting single graphics cards that might not be as power-efficient as the GTX 970. There's the EVGA Supernova G2 650 watt model ($75 after $25 rebate) for a bit more money that also has an eco fan mode for low noise.

 

[Volotaire]

This may be slightly off topic, but what are generally the best external/portable HDD's available? I'm looking for value rather than the absolute maximum write and read speeds, but will still offer protection and speed with about 2TB storage.

 

[kharma45]

I'm all about getting this thing as quiet as possible, so I went ahead and swapped the PSU to the one you suggested. PC Part Picker is saying that the high-end estimated wattage is about 350W. If I start really overclocking this thing, there's no chance I'll get close to the limits of a 550W PSU? No plans to SLI in the next couple years.


EDIT: One more thing I meant to ask. The Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL CPU Cooler I went with; does it come with it's own thermal compound? Should I be good to go with that?

It'll have paste yes.

Go up to 650 watts if you like. That will be plenty of wattage for overclocking and supporting single graphics cards that might not be as power-efficient as the GTX 970. There's the EVGA Supernova G2 650 watt model ($75 after $25 rebate) for a bit more money that also has an eco fan mode for low noise.

The 550w has the Eco mode too.

Review for the 650w here for interest http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=429 unsurprisingly it and the 550 are good additions to the G2 range.

650w is better value than the 550w for the sake of $5, plus the extra headroom means less chance of it getting out of the eco parameters.

 

[MR ARCADE FOREVER]

Hi everyone, I need some help!!

I want to build a gaming pc next month. I built one 10 years ago and I havent touch a pc desktop since then. I read the OP and built 2 diffent rigs. My bugdet is $2000 and my goal is to play games at 1440p at 60 fps. Could you guys give me some recommendations and feedback regarding wich rig is better to achieve my goal and some ways to tweak and avoid overkill/overspend??(Do I need ddr4? water cooling, etc); Any help is appreciated!!!

*My monitor of choice will be the AcerXB270HU or the upcoming Asus PG279Q

Build 1
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FwhsQ7

Build 2
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/GGLWvK

 

[paskowitz]

Maybe the higher end coolers like the NZXT kraken X61 or Swiftech's H220-X or H240-X when paired with some of the best possible fans. Are you unhappy with your H100i's performance? It probably wouldn't be worth the money to upgrade to either one, unless you had money to burn and didn't mind spending in the pursuit of best possible cooling.

Thank you for the reply. I am not unhappy with my H100i, I just figured it is pretty old and there might be something significantly better out. I have a great 4790k, 4.6Ghz/1.2v/70c, 4.9Ghz/1.30-1.32v/75-80c (benchmarks). I can go to 5.0Ghz but I have to ramp up the voltage to 1.34-1.35v and the temps stay around 85c (it is the summer). Unless I can get a 5-10c decrease (and a decrease in noise), it isn't worth the expense.

Separate question:
Does anyone here have any experience with the Asus Maximus VII Formula Z97 board? Obviously it is a good board, but any quirks or niggles from personal experience?