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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
do they auto install on whatever drive the OS is on?
nope they ask where to install before the download starts
don't want to redownload 40+gb
Go to settings, search apps
Find the app and click move.
Never actually succeeded with moving though. Always throws me an error. Pathetic.
hououinkyouma00
Member
Alright guys, question time. I'm looking at building a new pc, and originally was going to go the $900-1000 range however me and my friend were both going over the games we would want to play and I don't really think I need that much power wise.
This is what I generally play/will play.
League of Legends, CSGO, Indie games, catching up on PC games from the 2000s, some stuff like Starcraft or XCOM. So nothing too demanding but obviously more then my MBP can handle, even when I upgrade to the 2016 model in a couple months.
I don't want to shell out $1000 then waste it, I still mainly game on consoles, but want to supplement/possibly in the future replace them. I do own a freesync capable monitor.
I was thinking about going for a mITX build with a i3 6100, and a RX460/470. I won't be doing anything over 1080p even though I own a 4k tv. Maybe try playing some old games in 4k but I doubt it.
If it helps I know how to build a PC, I've built 5 for other people, but they decided the specs.
This is what I generally play/will play.
League of Legends, CSGO, Indie games, catching up on PC games from the 2000s, some stuff like Starcraft or XCOM. So nothing too demanding but obviously more then my MBP can handle, even when I upgrade to the 2016 model in a couple months.
I don't want to shell out $1000 then waste it, I still mainly game on consoles, but want to supplement/possibly in the future replace them. I do own a freesync capable monitor.
I was thinking about going for a mITX build with a i3 6100, and a RX460/470. I won't be doing anything over 1080p even though I own a 4k tv. Maybe try playing some old games in 4k but I doubt it.
If it helps I know how to build a PC, I've built 5 for other people, but they decided the specs.
ok looks like is moving. lets see if it works
Ryzaki009
Member
I installed windows 10 on my new harddrive (since my old one is going bad) and switched back to my bad one (mostly cause I was too lazy to move all my passwords and other data to it). So now I decide to use my new harddrive (since I should get started using it) and lo and behold as soon as I try to login I get User Profile Can't be Loaded. Okay I try to restore it and lol nope. Computer refuses to reset or anything. Just gives me the fun can't be booted loop and says there's something wrong with the drive. Now I keep getting harddrive warnings.
I just got this drive less than 2 weeks ago. And it was working just fine when I originally used it (Though now I can't even get files from it despite being able to do that just fine a day ago when it wasn't the main harddrive). Wonderful.
Can I just install windows 7 on this and it'll automatically format? Or do I need to nuke it some other way? I only have some backup data on it anyway so losing that won't bother me. Or did my HDD just bork?
I just got this drive less than 2 weeks ago. And it was working just fine when I originally used it (Though now I can't even get files from it despite being able to do that just fine a day ago when it wasn't the main harddrive). Wonderful.
Can I just install windows 7 on this and it'll automatically format? Or do I need to nuke it some other way? I only have some backup data on it anyway so losing that won't bother me. Or did my HDD just bork?
it worked thx for the help
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Alright gang, so what do you think of these temps? Where do you suggest I go from here?
This is an hour of AIDA64 with 1.310 VCORE and 4.5GHz
My setup: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MgYrxr
:
This is an hour of AIDA64 with 1.310 VCORE and 4.5GHz
My setup: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MgYrxr
:
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Alright gang, so what do you think of these temps? Where do you suggest I go from here?
This is an hour of AIDA64 with 1.310 VCORE and 4.5GHz
My setup: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MgYrxr
Your pic is not showing.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Fixed 
Fixed
Probably get this stable with adaptive vcore.
And personally I would try do a couple hours of a custom prime95 blend (min fft 200k, 12gnb ram tested).
It's definitely a good combo since there will only be bottlenecks when it comes to CPU intensive games like GTA V.
Could go cheaper if overclocking isn't required. And this is a lot more powerful.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£220.00 @ Novatech)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£104.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£43.49 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Plextor M7V 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£47.19 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£40.97 @ BT Shop)
Video Card: Palit GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card (£234.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1500 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£46.98 @ Ebuyer)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£49.99 @ Novatech)
Total: £818.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-30 23:51 GMT+0000
Thanks for the extremely quick reply, I'll forward this to her and see what she says.
Thanks! I have no plans to play GTAV though, but it can at least play Witcher 3 right? Even with slight settings adjustments. If it can play that, I don't think I would have any problems playing anything else in the future.
JonnyDBrit
Member
For context as well, a CPU similar to that of your reference build - an i3-6100 - would save around a hundred pounds or so. So it would be cheaper but still superior.
Edit:
As for this, you would have to keep a few settings down if you wanted consistently high performance. The Witcher 3's a demanding game, especially in urban areas - but it will mostly stress that CPU if you were to try and go all Ultra.
I'm planning my first ever build and don't want to make a bleeding edge machine in case I end up not being too hot on PC gaming. That said, I'd like to build something that will last a few years and will be easy to upgrade if I want to make something more future proof.
I don't even have a desktop at the moment so this build will come with added costs such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, chair Windows license, etc. I'd like to cut costs where I can and then upgrade to better components in a few years if I'd like to. At the moment I'm pretty much building the straight 'Excellent - Best Overall' build from the OP. I'm going to start with a 1080p 60hz monitor, so I'm assuming the 1060 will suit my needs just fine. Is there any reason to go with a 1070 instead if I'm planning on playing 1080p 60fps locked and streaming to my TV via a Steam Link half the time?
I don't even have a desktop at the moment so this build will come with added costs such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, chair Windows license, etc. I'd like to cut costs where I can and then upgrade to better components in a few years if I'd like to. At the moment I'm pretty much building the straight 'Excellent - Best Overall' build from the OP. I'm going to start with a 1080p 60hz monitor, so I'm assuming the 1060 will suit my needs just fine. Is there any reason to go with a 1070 instead if I'm planning on playing 1080p 60fps locked and streaming to my TV via a Steam Link half the time?
I see, thanks as well! It's kind of a tough decision, I really want to go budget as much as possible since I don't have a lot of games that I want to play on PC, but I want it to be future proof as well.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Well the i3-6100 still uses the same socket type as much more powerful CPUs, so you could use that as your initial entry option, and then upgrade while using the same motherboard.
Just for reference, there's no problem buying just one ram stick?
I still need to buy a motherboard, and ram for it, and I can't decide between one 8gb of ram or two 4gb's. I want to upgrade to 16gb later on.
If you want to future proof, I'd say go for a i5 6400
It having 4 real cores might help out in the future.
But if you don't have the money, the i3 should work fine for now
I still need to buy a motherboard, and ram for it, and I can't decide between one 8gb of ram or two 4gb's. I want to upgrade to 16gb later on.
If you want to future proof, I'd say go for a i5 6400
It having 4 real cores might help out in the future.
But if you don't have the money, the i3 should work fine for now
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
There is a performance hit when running single channel, but for most usage including gaming it's pretty tiny. Mostly noticeable in benchmarks.
If you are definitely planning to upgrade to 16GB later, I'd say go with a single 8GB DIMM. Just remember to buy a matching DIMM and not whatever is cheap at the time.
The OP has "Excellent - Best Overall" and "Great - Best Value," though they are similar.
1070 will have a bit more longevity at 1080p than the 1060. Not worth the price difference to me for 1080p - 6GB 1060s and 8GB 480s are available in the low $200s.
Thanks again! I think I'll just go for an i3, I've been reading some benchmarks and its still good. I'm also fine with lowering settings. Guess I'll leave it at that for a possible upgrade in the future.
So if I get one of those mobos, it wouldn't be compatible with a newer CPU should I eventually upgrade the i5?
Yeah, I'm not sure what the warranty is on it but I've had it for roughly....4-5 years?
Thanks for the tips though
Hey guys, I'm building a PC with a i7 6700k and GTX 1080. Wondering what I should be targeting for the monitor - 1440p 120hz with gsync, 4k with gsync, or one of each, etc? Cost isn't really an issue (within reason), just hoping to get the best experience possible. It'll be at least a dual monitor setup.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
So if I get one of those mobos, it wouldn't be compatible with a newer CPU should I eventually upgrade the i5?
Yeah, I'm not sure what the warranty is on it but I've had it for roughly....4-5 years?
Thanks for the tips though
You won't have any worthwhile upgrade path without upgrading the CPU+motherboard(+RAM). Intel generally moves to a new totally new socket every generation, but there have been a few exceptions. Sandy and Ivy Bridge share a socket, and Kaby and Skylake will share one.
Best you could do would be to move to an Ivy Bridge i7, but IMO getting a Z75/77 board and then later upgrading from Sandy to Ivy isn't worth it. Just save for a bigger upgrade like a Z270+7600K at that point.
Personally I'd go with the lower resolution, higher refresh + gsync over 4K. But it just depends on what your bigger priority is, for me a better framerate on a smaller, lower resolution monitor is more valuable than a bigger higher resolution one.
Been gaming on laptops/consoles all this time so I'm used to 1080p with <30fps on medium. Can't really say what I'd prefer since I don't know how 120hz feels.
scoobs
Member
Depends on what type of games you play. If you're into FPS or MOBAs I'd say high refresh rate is your number one priority. The Acer Predator 1440p/144hz/gsync is pretty incredible
If you just play single player stuff and want a more cinematic experience go for 4K
I play a pretty wide breadth of games so both cases would apply.
Hmm... would it be possible to do both? Have one monitor for the higher refresh and one for the 4k? Would that cause any problems with the gpu? I'd imagine having two 4k or two 144hz monitors would be pointless if you're only going to be gaming on one.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
144hz feels good even during normal use. But if price isn't a concern having both wouldn't hurt.
So no technical problems with using two monitors with different refresh rates/one with gsync and one without? Think I'll look into getting one of each then once Black Friday rolls around, thanks guys!
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Nope. I'm using two 1080p monitors, one is 144hz with Freesync and the other is just a regular 60hz. No problems at all.
scoobs
Member
I'm using the 1440p Acer Predator 144hz, and an Asus 1080/60hz as my secondary. No issues. I'd highly recommend this monitor for all use. Its IPS, so the colors REALLY pop and games like The Witcher and Arkham Knight look stunning on it
ChillyBilly
Member
Awesome! Thanks for the help and the suggestions, really appreciate it.
TheVoidDragon
Member
Can someone tell me what 23G means for mouse acceleration? I know what mouse acceleration is but i can't find what the 23G part means.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Welp...thought I was upgrading.
"Upgraded" my router going from a old retired D-Link DIR-655 to an ASUS RT-AC3100. I go to connect my D-Link DNS-325 NAS and the new router won't recognize it's connected. Get to talking to ASUS support and apparently you can only connect storage to this router via USB (WTF?) So now I'm desperate for a solution.
- Don't want to give up on the router because other then this oversight on asus' part, it's great.
- Don't want to give up on the dlink NAS because it's been functionally sound and I don't want to have to figure out how I'm going to juggle all this data to get it all on a new NAS.
Anyone with any ideas? Would an adapter work (usb to ethernet)?
"Upgraded" my router going from a old retired D-Link DIR-655 to an ASUS RT-AC3100. I go to connect my D-Link DNS-325 NAS and the new router won't recognize it's connected. Get to talking to ASUS support and apparently you can only connect storage to this router via USB (WTF?) So now I'm desperate for a solution.
- Don't want to give up on the router because other then this oversight on asus' part, it's great.
- Don't want to give up on the dlink NAS because it's been functionally sound and I don't want to have to figure out how I'm going to juggle all this data to get it all on a new NAS.
Anyone with any ideas? Would an adapter work (usb to ethernet)?
The DNS-325 already has ethernet doesn't it? If you just connect it to the router then everything on the network would be able to see it.
EricGRIT09
Neo Member
The support rep you spoke with just didn't know what they were talking about. The NAS and router external storage are two totally separate things. Your router does not need to support external storage to allow the NAS to function on your network.
You need to connect an Ethernet cable from the NAS to your new router/network. If the NAS is setup to pull an IP address via DHCP then it should work just fine. If it was ever previously statically assigned an IP address then that may need to change, but you would probably know if you did something like this.
Don't fret - it will work.
DeathByBacklog
Member
That's the thing. I did connect the 325 to the router via ethernet. It won't show up on the router's map at all.
Ok. You might be on to something there. I do recall assigning it a permanent IP as it would often get lost on the network. So should I re-hook it up to the old router and log into it to change the settings? I can't log into it at all when it's hooked up to the new router.
And I'm hoping you're both right regarding this. I can't imagine upgrading to a router that over 3 times the cost of an old updated router, only for it to lack simple connectivity to a NAS over ethernet.
No such feature as connecting to a NAS via Ethernet, it's simply connecting via Ethernet.
Yes, connect to the old router, set up a new IP address to match the address scheme of the new router, then hook it up to the new router.
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Jezbollah
Member
No firm ETA, but from the impressions I get it wont surface anytime before March next year.
Hey guys, odd request here...
My grandparents recently lost their PC (dell pre-built) and I told them I'd help with the replacement. They don't want a chromebook and I'd prefer to build something rather than them buy something too expensive for their needs.
For simple browsing/email/streaming, and for storing photos/videos from camera phones, would the following build get the job done?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD A6-5400K 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A78M PRO3+ Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($65.90 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($20.48 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 500W ATX Power Supply ($42.60 @ Amazon)
Total: $255.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-31 17:25 EDT-0400
Side question - is there an idiot-proof Linux distro these days? I'd rather them have something slightly safer (history of PC problems), but not if they're going to have to relearn how to computer.
Welcome to any and all suggestions.
Thanks!!
My grandparents recently lost their PC (dell pre-built) and I told them I'd help with the replacement. They don't want a chromebook and I'd prefer to build something rather than them buy something too expensive for their needs.
For simple browsing/email/streaming, and for storing photos/videos from camera phones, would the following build get the job done?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD A6-5400K 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A78M PRO3+ Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($65.90 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($20.48 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 500W ATX Power Supply ($42.60 @ Amazon)
Total: $255.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-31 17:25 EDT-0400
Side question - is there an idiot-proof Linux distro these days? I'd rather them have something slightly safer (history of PC problems), but not if they're going to have to relearn how to computer.
Welcome to any and all suggestions.
Thanks!!
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Sorry to be such a bother, but looking at this:
When looking at an OC is it best to go based on average temp or peak temps in deciding whether or not your thermals are good or bad? What's the same margin of temps to stay in for Skylake anyway?
When looking at an OC is it best to go based on average temp or peak temps in deciding whether or not your thermals are good or bad? What's the same margin of temps to stay in for Skylake anyway?
Hi guys, I need some help!
I've been video editing a whole lot on my 2011 Macbook Pro. And for heavier projects on my mom her 2011 iMac. But it's just not cutting it anymore. Trying to edit 4K footage is already on the edge of impossible. So I really need to step it up and get a new machine. Especially since I'm hoping to get a 5K raw camera somewhere next year.
I'm not going to get a iMac since that'll set me back 4K. And those new Macbooks are also too expensive. So I'm probably going to need to build a powerful desktop. But I have 0 knowledge on building a machine. I'd be willing to spend somewhere around 1K-2K to build some crazy ass editing system. Is that enough? If so, what should I get? I'm also considering going the Hackintosh route since it's nice to keep in the macOS realm and be able to work with my Macbook. Does that change things up?
Any advice would be stellar <3
I've been video editing a whole lot on my 2011 Macbook Pro. And for heavier projects on my mom her 2011 iMac. But it's just not cutting it anymore. Trying to edit 4K footage is already on the edge of impossible. So I really need to step it up and get a new machine. Especially since I'm hoping to get a 5K raw camera somewhere next year.
I'm not going to get a iMac since that'll set me back 4K. And those new Macbooks are also too expensive. So I'm probably going to need to build a powerful desktop. But I have 0 knowledge on building a machine. I'd be willing to spend somewhere around 1K-2K to build some crazy ass editing system. Is that enough? If so, what should I get? I'm also considering going the Hackintosh route since it's nice to keep in the macOS realm and be able to work with my Macbook. Does that change things up?
Any advice would be stellar <3
Sorry to be such a bother, but looking at this:
When looking at an OC is it best to go based on average temp or peak temps in deciding whether or not your thermals are good or bad? What's the same margin of temps to stay in for Skylake anyway?
Peak temp.
Stress test to 75-80*c peak.
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