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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Eddie Bax

Member
Yeah, that's what I meant. And I did elevated it with a piece of wood. So it's like it's on a desk, but it's...not? Will that airflow help enough, or should I look into an additional fan still?

Assuming it's high enough that the airflow isn't being cutoff by the carpet anymore, it should help. Either way, an additional fan or fans in your case isn't going to do very much, considering a PSU's cooling is essentially self-contained.
 

Iorv3th

Member
Yeah, that's what I meant. And I did elevated it with a piece of wood. So it's like it's on a desk, but it's...not? Will that airflow help enough, or should I look into an additional fan still?

Make sure the bottom fan isn't blocked. Should be a dust filter, clean it.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Quick Q:

Will this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814127947
Fit in this: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=303

Seems like it's underneath the requirements but I haven't done the computey things in a while so I'm not 100% confident.

That feeling when you get the upgrade bug and want to build a new machine. Any HOT new mATX cases?

Length shouldn't be a problem at all. And it should have an inch of clearance least on the side.

Still a solid case, that was the second case I was considering alongside the SG10 I ended up going with. TJ08 is a bit bigger (not saying much, SG10 is smaller than some mITX cases) but probably easier to work in.
 

Haly

One day I realized that sadness is just another word for not enough coffee.
Oh my god I was out of the game for only 3 years and now SSDs are thinner than RAM what in tarnations!
 
Skyrim Special Edition currently runs acceptably on my desktop which has only 4 GB of RAM, but I'm paging out extremely heavily, and even on an SSD I will get quite a load of loading-related stutters, and I intend to play around with more mods in the future, as well as the Creation Kit.

Add 4 GB or 8 GB? Also should check if it will run the first 8 GB in dual-channel if I go 4+8. I intend to just add the minimum I can get away with... My broken good RAM is still waiting to be processed, and it's getting a bit infuriating.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
So I'm upgrading my computer finally. Nothing crazy, just used/cheap/warehouse parts. ($280) 6700K, ($210) GENE VIII, ($84) 16GB 3000MHz DDR4, and ($86) a cute mATX case to size down my system. Keeping my GTX 1070. Hoping my 160mm PSU doesn't make everything a royal pain.
Oh my god I was out of the game for only 3 years and now SSDs are thinner than RAM what in tarnations!
On that note, the 960 PRO (M.2 SSD) is coming out in a week and will be offering 3500MB/s read speeds and 2100MB/s writes.

More importantly the (cheaper) 960 EVO will be coming out after (Maybe 1-2 months?) sporting
SEQUENTIAL READ: Up to 3,200 MB/sec
SEQUENTIAL WRITE:
250 GB: Up to 1,500 MB/sec
500 GB: Up to 1,800 MB/sec
1000 GB: Up to 1,900 MB/sec

RANDOM READ (4KB, QD32)
250 GB: Up to 330,000 IOPS (Thread 4)
500 GB: Up to 330,000 IOPS (Thread 4)
1000 GB: Up to 380,000 IOPS (Thread 4)
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Thanks for the PSU heat help guys. Gonna take some canned air to the whole machine tomorrow. For now, it's up and running. Elevating it has definitely shown signs of improvement.
 
Hours of google searches have proven inconclusive and I'm just about at my wits end.

This is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MgYrxr (Quick and dirty: Intel i7-6700K CPU, Asus Z170I Gaming Motherboard, Noctua NH-D15)

I've stress tested 4.6Ghz / 1.325V stable in manual mode. I set the VCORE to 1.325V in the UEFI in manual mode but I still get fluctuations well above 1.325V reported in AIDA64 and HWmonitor.

Attached is a screenshot of my vcore as reported by the aforementioned software. Also attached are photos of the settings as they are in my UEFI.

So basically what's happening is that I'm getting significantly more voltage being sent to my CPU than what I'm setting it to manually in the UEFI. I've tried to research this issue and come up with the possibility that it's related to the Load Line Calibration (which I've tweaked and has had no effect) and VRM spread spectrum (which is disabled per UEFI instructions and overall internet consensus).

I've tried adaptive VCORE as well and I'm getting 1.350V when I'm trying to run with a max of 1.325. This is frustrating as hell on top of the fact that I already feel my CPU is hotter than it should be. Any help would be immensely appreciated.

nkW5hHp.jpg

S5qGUUf.jpg

NfNXS9x.jpg
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hours of google searches have proven inconclusive and I'm just about at my wits end.

This is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MgYrxr (Quick and dirty: Intel i7-6700K CPU, Asus Z170I Gaming Motherboard, Noctua NH-D15)

I've stress tested 4.6Ghz / 1.325V stable in manual mode. I set the VCORE to 1.325V in the UEFI in manual mode but I still get fluctuations well above 1.325V reported in AIDA64 and HWmonitor.

Attached is a screenshot of my vcore as reported by the aforementioned software. Also attached are photos of the settings as they are in my UEFI.

So basically what's happening is that I'm getting significantly more voltage being sent to my CPU than what I'm setting it to manually in the UEFI. I've tried to research this issue and come up with the possibility that it's related to the Load Line Calibration (which I've tweaked and has had no effect) and VRM spread spectrum (which is disabled per UEFI instructions and overall internet consensus).

I've tried adaptive VCORE as well and I'm getting 1.350V when I'm trying to run with a max of 1.325. This is frustrating as hell on top of the fact that I already feel my CPU is hotter than it should be. Any help would be immensely appreciated.
Change the values for LLC, but measure the difference in BIOS, Idle, and Load voltages.
It should be affecting load voltage, but you don't want LLC to be too high.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Is auto not a good place for it to be?
I'm saying do the testing you did, but measure the difference in idle and load voltages. That's where it kicks in if you want your idle voltage to be lower.

If your CPU is hot blame Intel's IHS
kunk-rum.gif
Dunno if this is true on 6700K's
 

Megabat

Member
Quick Q:

Will this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814127947
Fit in this: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=303

Seems like it's underneath the requirements but I haven't done the computey things in a while so I'm not 100% confident.

That feeling when you get the upgrade bug and want to build a new machine. Any HOT new mATX cases?

Yes, it'll fit. The TJ08 is exactly what I would buy if I had the money and an mATX board. It's a positive pressure case. I believe the manual recommends a blower-style card. I don't think an open cooler will be much of a problem. Definitely don't liquid-cool your CPU if you buy this case.

I don't know exactly what's new to you, but lots of people like the Corsair Air 240. The CaseLabs Bullet BH4 is a cool high-end enclosure.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Need some tips on getting bluetooth into my custom desktop.

I've been looking for wifi cards that include it. All seem to require the use of a USB slot for the bluetooth. Does that mean I might as well just get a USB bluetooth adapter?
 

LilJoka

Member
So here's an odd question. I have a Cooler Master 800W Gold PSU. Tonight, I was playing Grim Dawn when my PC just shut off with no warning. No lights on the mobo, no sign of life, no nothing. I took everything apart and started tinkering to see what may have been the cause. Turns out, the PSU was hot as shit - it definitely overheated. Part of this was due to where I had my tower before, but I'm wondering if I need to figure out some extra cooling just in case.

Here's a weird pic of my setup - I'm nearly positive the green fans are intake and blue are exhaust (from the PSU and Corsair Hydro). Any tips/thoughts on what I can do to not let that happen ever again?

TX0XI6ll.jpg

With carpet, I always flip the PSU over so the fan is taking air from inside the case rather than from outside.
 

Palom

Member
I'm needing to upgrade my PC and could use some suggestions. I currently have a mini ITX system with i5-4670k, GTX 760, and 8GB RAM. I really can't afford it, but I figure I can write off the expense for work to help, so the cheaper I can upgrade, the better. The best CPU I can upgrade to is an i7-4790k, and I'd still be using DDR3 RAM. Should I do that, or would it be better to upgrade to a new motherboard with a newer i7 CPU and DDR4 RAM? Also, I'm having trouble deciding between an RX 480 4GB, GTX 1050 Ti 4GB, or GTX 1060 6GB. I don't really play games on my PC, mainly use it for emulators, as a streaming PC for console games, and for video rendering, though I do play the odd game every once in awhile (e.g. I have Skyrim SE installed now). Main thing I want to focus on is video rendering. Thanks for any help.
 
Yes, there's no reason to buy a pre-overclocked card unless it comes with a better cooler, more pci-e power connectors, better components, etc...
Otherwise if the only difference is the clock speeds, you can just easily overclock the base version to match or surpass the more expensive pre-overclocked card.



Current rumors point to hopefully sometime early next year for the Zen release, which is also when the new kaby lake chips from Intel are supposed to hit. Kaby lake should just be skylake but with slightly higher clocks, although it could potentially be a great overclocker.

MSI has the quietest card at factory settings in the reviews I've seen, so that would make it a good choice if noise is a priority. Powercolor is a close second. The default profiles for Asus and XFX 480s prioritize temps over noise, but a custom fan curve can put them in the same ballpark as the other two.

Noise also happens to be one of the most common complaints about the Nitro, but it's still not that much louder than the other cards.

Any of the cards will turn the fans off when the temps are low enough, but if you have dual monitors that may never happen. For whatever reason AMD runs the VRAM at full speed all the time if you have multiple monitors, and at least in my case that's enough to keep the fans running at low speed all the time. Still silent, but not passively cooled.



Early next year for Summit Ridge, don't think there is anything more specific than that apart from speculation.

Don't expect them to be cheap though, Summit Ridge is targeting the high end and servers and will probably be priced accordingly. The cheapest option will probably be a upper range i5 (4690K, 6600K, 7600K) competitor. Raven Ridge will likely be the cheaper APU series, but it's not supposed to hit until later.

Thanks you two.
 

enewtabie

Member
Ordered a Cryoig M9i cpu cooler for my itx build. Cheap, better than stock since I'm not overclocking. Never tried an Cryoig product before,but they have a good rep.
 

rac

Banned
I didn't realize memtest takes so long. I'm almost 100% positive its the gpu though. Too bad its out of RMA from newegg.

Just reposting in case someone can shed a little light on my situation.

I'm starting to think the psu is the problem since its the only thing I kept from my last build and it is just a cheap one I bought at bestbuy, 800w but an older model.

I really hope that is the problem since it'd be nicer to upgrade the psu to a modular anyways instead of spending $300 for a new gpu. I'll run hwinfo tonight and see whats up.

edit: seems like IAmtheFMan is having a similar problem as me, go figure.

edit2: I should clarify the graphics of the game doesn't seem to matter. I have run witcher 3 great just a few days ago with no crashes and crash on gwent all the time. Sometimes chrome is enough to cause a crash.

edit3: Temps of the gpu range from 31 degrees to 50 degrees, while the cpu temp is at 40. Only thing that runs hot is the psu.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
That case is a Raidmax Vampire right? The case feet on those are too shallow for carpet, more suited for desks. I would put a hard mat underneath it if it's going to remain down there on the carpet floor.

Yeah - that's why I put it on the board. The carpet was far too plush for ANY airflow. I suspect that's what happened. Funny that it finally gave in like this...I played Doom on max settings for hours with no issues. Must have been a perfect storm of issues.

This case isn't on carpet. It's sitting on a piece of fiberboard in this picture.

It is now. It was on carpet before because I'm dumb, haha.
 

andycapps

Member
So I've built a gaming PC a couple weeks ago and have questions about gaming headphones. Looking at getting a pair of the 3.5 mm headphones in OP with the Antlion mic.

To get simulated 7.1 sound, can I plug that 3.5 cable into my Mobo which is supposed to support it? Probably a dumb question but I'm using some cheap Turtle Beach PX-22's which connect via 3.5 mm and USB so moving beyond USB is new for me.
 

Afrodium

Banned
Is there a reason to go with an i7 6700k over an i5 6600k for a pure gaming machine? Looking into making my first build and from what I've read it seems that upgradind the CPU requires pretty much making a new build. With this in mind I want my CPU to last as long as possible. Does it makes sense to go with the i7 for longevity or is most of the extra power for non-gaming tasks such as video editing?
 

LilJoka

Member
Is auto not a good place for it to be?

LLC should Level 4 or 5 (I think the max is 8) on Asus boards.
The problem is, LLC is load based, the load applied will vary, therefore sometimes it will surpass the total vcore you've noticed before.

Adaptive is tricky to get to work, and will need trial and error to get the voltage back where you had it on manual. I tend to use 1.3v Adaptive and 0.05v offset with LLC L5 to keep me in the 1.32v range, of course load dependant. It's all a balancing act.
 

Bloodember

Member
Just reposting in case someone can shed a little light on my situation.

I'm starting to think the psu is the problem since its the only thing I kept from my last build and it is just a cheap one I bought at bestbuy, 800w but an older model.

I really hope that is the problem since it'd be nicer to upgrade the psu to a modular anyways instead of spending $300 for a new gpu. I'll run hwinfo tonight and see whats up.

edit: seems like IAmtheFMan is having a similar problem as me, go figure.

edit2: I should clarify the graphics of the game doesn't seem to matter. I have run witcher 3 great just a few days ago with no crashes and crash on gwent all the time. Sometimes chrome is enough to cause a crash.

edit3: Temps of the gpu range from 31 degrees to 50 degrees, while the cpu temp is at 40. Only thing that runs hot is the psu.

Replace the PSU and see if that fixes the problem. Also your GPU should be under warranty from the manufacturer, so you can RMA it through them if the card is the issue.
 

enewtabie

Member
Is there a reason to go with an i7 6700k over an i5 6600k for a pure gaming machine? Looking into making my first build and from what I've read it seems that upgradind the CPU requires pretty much making a new build. With this in mind I want my CPU to last as long as possible. Does it makes sense to go with the i7 for longevity or is most of the extra power for non-gaming tasks such as video editing?


Are you just doing gaming? i5 6600k is around 100 dollars cheaper and not much difference than the 6700k for gaming. If you are going to be doing video editing/4k videos etc. I would go 6700k.
 

rac

Banned
Replace the PSU and see if that fixes the problem. Also your GPU should be under warranty from the manufacturer, so you can RMA it through them if the card is the issue.

I ordered one from newegg last night so hopefully that fixes everything :). One question if everything on hwinfo looks fine does that mean my psu isn't the issue?
 

andycapps

Member
Is there a reason to go with an i7 6700k over an i5 6600k for a pure gaming machine? Looking into making my first build and from what I've read it seems that upgradind the CPU requires pretty much making a new build. With this in mind I want my CPU to last as long as possible. Does it makes sense to go with the i7 for longevity or is most of the extra power for non-gaming tasks such as video editing?
I went with the i5 6600k and have overclocked it. Really solid so far. Was told I'd be better off doing a better video card than spending the extra money on an i7 since I'm gaming at 1080p.
 

inner-G

Banned
Will SSD's ever get so fast that we won't need RAM? Or am I a dumbass for thinking that?

Is there a reason to go with an i7 6700k over an i5 6600k for a pure gaming machine? Looking into making my first build and from what I've read it seems that upgradind the CPU requires pretty much making a new build. With this in mind I want my CPU to last as long as possible. Does it makes sense to go with the i7 for longevity or is most of the extra power for non-gaming tasks such as video editing?
I have a 6600k, used an 'easy button' in the BIOS to overclock it to 4.1gHz on air. Works great

Some games like BF1 take advantage of HT, but not many. I don't think a 6600k would hold you back though.
 

vector824

Member
Will SSD's ever get so fast that we won't need RAM? Or am I a dumbass for thinking that?


I have a 6600k, used an 'easy button' in the BIOS to overclock it to 4.1gHz on air. Works great

3D XPoint or "Optane" from Intel is close. So yes, in the next few years that is a possibility. You're quite the opposite.

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/non-volatile-memory.html

I also have a 6600k and it's excellent, even for video rendering.
 
Is it necessary to install integrated audio drivers if you're using a dedicated audio card?

I'm using a Sound Blaster Z and every time I boot there's an error message saying:

Windows has detected that audio enhancements for the following device are causing problems:

Sound Blaster Z

Would you like to disable driver enhancements for this device?

Everything works fine, it's just annoying. Doesn't matter if I press Yes or No, it doesn't change anything and it still shows up at boot.

I've disabled the integrated HD audio in the BIOS.
 
Is a Logitech Proteus spectrum worth £51? They're usually more than that at around £65 but looking on HotUkDeals there have been similar prices for it a few times over the past year but for some reason those deals weren't rated well. Is there a reason for that?
 

inner-G

Banned
3D XPoint or "Optane" from Intel is close. So yes, in the next few years that is a possibility. You're quite the opposite.

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/non-volatile-memory.html

Damn, working things out to where there's no transfer to system memory - straight from the disk to the processor could be crazy in performance boosts. All those points of latency and bandwidth limitations removed. No memory size limits or even memory itself.

Stuff like that and quantum computing blow my mind.
 

vector824

Member
Damn, working things out to where there's no transfer to system memory - straight from the disk to the processor could be crazy in performance boosts. All those points of latency and bandwidth limitations removed. No memory size limits or even memory itself.

Stuff like that and quantum computing blow my mind.

Yeah get's me pumped. The biggest bottleneck right now in computing are HD read/write speeds. CPUs, GPUs, and RAM are faster than ever, but we're still reading that data off spinning magnetic disks. Standard SSDs offer a faster solution but are still prohibitively expensive over 500gb for most people.

If we get to a point where that data can be as accessible as RAM then we're talking about some serious performance jumps.
 

Fitts

Member
Monitor question: does anyone have any experience with the LG 32MP58HQ-P or the newer 32MA68HY-P? They appear to be the same monitor save for the latter having additional connections and retailing for $199 instead of $299. I'm currently planning an arcade cabinet build for both classic MAME and modern games and I think they're what I'm looking for. I want to go 32" to fill out the cab and would like IPS for the viewing angles. Since it's only being used for games I'd rather go monitor and not TV to keep input lag to a minimum. I'd also like to stay at 1080p.

Are these monitors recommended? Does anyone have one that they recommend that I may have overlooked? Thanks!
 

hohoXD123

Member
Is a Logitech Proteus spectrum worth £51? They're usually more than that at around £65 but looking on HotUkDeals there have been similar prices for it a few times over the past year but for some reason those deals weren't rated well. Is there a reason for that?

Yes, I love this thing. Hardware and software offer a lot of customisation, feels excellent to use and the wire is very sturdy. It is pricey but for something which I use so frequently and which will probably last at least a few years I'd say it's worth it. Don't look too much into HUKD, hardware targetting enthusiasts generally don't fare too well.
 

kuYuri

Member
I'm needing to upgrade my PC and could use some suggestions. I currently have a mini ITX system with i5-4670k, GTX 760, and 8GB RAM. I really can't afford it, but I figure I can write off the expense for work to help, so the cheaper I can upgrade, the better. The best CPU I can upgrade to is an i7-4790k, and I'd still be using DDR3 RAM. Should I do that, or would it be better to upgrade to a new motherboard with a newer i7 CPU and DDR4 RAM? Also, I'm having trouble deciding between an RX 480 4GB, GTX 1050 Ti 4GB, or GTX 1060 6GB. I don't really play games on my PC, mainly use it for emulators, as a streaming PC for console games, and for video rendering, though I do play the odd game every once in awhile (e.g. I have Skyrim SE installed now). Main thing I want to focus on is video rendering. Thanks for any help.

Save some money and go for the 4790K. It's still a great processor and the 6700K is a very small improvement over it.
 

Ashhong

Member
Thanks everyone for the GPU advice. In the end I had to go with the R9 Fury for 270$. I only game at 1080p/1200p and I think this will be better for me for the next few years than a 480. If Im way wrong please let me know!
 

Chinbo37

Member
I'm looking to get a new monitor.

For me 144 hz is the most important feature.

Next is size. Should be 27 inch.

Resolution I'm fine with 1080 but if in budget I would go higher.




Do I need a sync feature or not? I currently have a 970 and could see myself sticking with Nvidia. But I don't play at a lot of brand new games. I'm a budget gamer in terms of software and the newest game I play is doom.


So should I just get a benq monitor without sync or spend big bucks for gsync.
 
edit: seems like IAmtheFMan is having a similar problem as me, go figure.

edit2: I should clarify the graphics of the game doesn't seem to matter. I have run witcher 3 great just a few days ago with no crashes and crash on gwent all the time. Sometimes chrome is enough to cause a crash.

Let me know if the PSU works for you. I'm in the same boat and don't want to replace my GPU.
 

BrokenArrow

Neo Member
I'm looking to get a new monitor.

For me 144 hz is the most important feature.

Next is size. Should be 27 inch.

Resolution I'm fine with 1080 but if in budget I would go higher.




Do I need a sync feature or not? I currently have a 970 and could see myself sticking with Nvidia. But I don't play at a lot of brand new games. I'm a budget gamer in terms of software and the newest game I play is doom.


So should I just get a benq monitor without sync or spend big bucks for gsync.

I feel like Gsync isn't worth its money, especially if you're on a budget. Also, in a recent driver update Nvidia added "Fast Sync" support to their control panel which is said to be a better version of Vsync but with less input latency. I haven't tested it enough to make a convincing statement but if Fast Sync really does what it promises then there is only little reason to spend money on a Gsync monitor.

I'm using a BenQ XL2411Z myself. Obviously it's only 24" but it's a pretty good monitor. The out-of-box color/gamma accuracy is pretty bad but nothing that can't be fixed with a little bit of research. Would recommend.
 

LilJoka

Member
Is it necessary to install integrated audio drivers if you're using a dedicated audio card?

I'm using a Sound Blaster Z and every time I boot there's an error message saying:

Everything works fine, it's just annoying. Doesn't matter if I press Yes or No, it doesn't change anything and it still shows up at boot.

I've disabled the integrated HD audio in the BIOS.

What has integrated audio got to do with the sound blaster?
It's more likely Windows notices something odd with the sound blaster driver.

No you don't need to install drivers for integrated audio.
Disabling HD Audio in bios should prevent the integrated audio device being seen in windows. But that's not going to help with your sound blaster errors, it's unrelated.

What sound blaster card you got exactly and what's hooked up to it?
 
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