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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Swig_

Member
Does anyone know of a Mini-ITX case that could hold two 3.5" and two SSD hard drives? I'm looking into significantly reducing my case size (currently have the Corsair 760T, which I love, but is much bigger than I want or need).

I'm looking for something like the Node 202, but with slightly more room.
 

Bloodember

Member
I've been thinking of getting one of those Corsair MP500 M.2 NVMe SSDs, and booting Windows from it. Will it make a difference is boot times over SATA SSDs?
Yes

Does anyone know of a Mini-ITX case that could hold two 3.5" and two SSD hard drives? I'm looking into significantly reducing my case size (currently have the Corsair 760T, which I love, but is much bigger than I want or need).

I'm looking for something like the Node 202, but with slightly more room.
NZXT Manta
 

LilJoka

Member

Is it really that good considering the single thread benchmark?
It's going to have the edge in multi threaded for sure since it's got more cores.

And looking closely, the AMD has turbo to 3.8ghz on 1 core but is beaten by the Skylake at 3.6ghz.
Therefore my estimates on broadwell level IPC seem to be coming true.

Hmm.. I was hoping for more of the "VCR Box" kinda look. That looks like a super round, shrunken mid tower case. Good to know that it exists, though.

Silverstone RVZ02
Fractal Design series
 
Does anyone know of a Mini-ITX case that could hold two 3.5" and two SSD hard drives? I'm looking into significantly reducing my case size (currently have the Corsair 760T, which I love, but is much bigger than I want or need).

I'm looking for something like the Node 202, but with slightly more room.
If you mean something like the Node 202 in the sense that it is one of those slim standing cases I don't think you'll find anything that fits that many drives. The Fractal Define Nano S is a good ITX cases and it fits all those drives, but it is quite large for an ITX cases. Same thing goes for the Corsair 250D. You have to sacrifice size to fit that many drives.
 

Swig_

Member
If you mean something like the Node 202 in the sense that it is one of those slim standing cases I don't think you'll find anything that fits that many drives. The Fractal Define Nano S is a good ITX cases and it fits all those drives, but it is quite large for an ITX cases. Same thing goes for the Corsair 250D. You have to sacrifice size to fit that many drives.

Yeah, I was afraid that nothing exists for what I'd like. Just thought I'd ask since I don't keep up on cases these days. I might have to switch my big drives to SSDs.
 
I know the G3 is supposed to be "better" than the G2 for EVGA PSUs but is the G2 still a good pick to go with or should people just spend the $20-$30 extra on the G3?
 
I know the G3 is supposed to be "better" than the G2 for EVGA PSUs but is the G2 still a good pick to go with or should people just spend the $20-$30 extra on the G3?

the G2 is still fine. i have the 750W g2. it's a fantastic PSU. i'm not quite sure of the specifics but i think the G3 is just more compact/quieter and maybe a bit more efficient. if you can get the G2 for a good price then go for it but if the prices are similar then just go for the G3.
 

ValfarHL

Member
So how much will my I5 2500k @ 4.5Ghz be a limiting factor with my new Gigabyte 1080 xtreme gaming?

Will I see big gains buying a better socket 1150 cpu, or should I just wait till I upgrade my whole system?

Will be playing at 1440p.
 

longdi

Banned
Supposedly the 1700X numbers are done without turbo! 3.4Ghz only, probably true in multi-core stress, most CPU will run at base or 100mhz more..

Even if it is running 3.8Ghz with Broadwell IPC, it is damn good, Skylake is like 5% better IPC. $300 can get you a 8 cores part which will rekt 7700K in new games imo.

Return all 7700K now GAF!
 
Supposedly the 1700X numbers are done without turbo! 3.4Ghz only, probably true in multi-core stress, most CPU will run at base or 100mhz more..

Even if it is running 3.8Ghz with Broadwell IPC, it is damn good, Skylake is like 5% better IPC. $300 can get you a 8 cores part which will rekt 7700K in new games imo.

Return all 7700K now GAF!

6700/7700K's are still fine if you have them. it's still a bit too early to say but if the ryzen cpu's do perform better then yeah get one if you're building a new PC. i have a 6700K and it will last me many years yet. if AMD have a good cpu out when i am ready to upgrade then i will consider them.
 

LilJoka

Member
Supposedly the 1700X numbers are done without turbo! 3.4Ghz only, probably true in multi-core stress, most CPU will run at base or 100mhz more..

Even if it is running 3.8Ghz with Broadwell IPC, it is damn good, Skylake is like 5% better IPC. $300 can get you a 8 cores part which will rekt 7700K in new games imo.

Return all 7700K now GAF!

One other thing is that kaby lake TDP scales extremely well, a 5Ghz OC pushes 120W.
Skylake pushed close to 200W.

We need to get a full picture, claiming 7700k is dead is a bit ambitious. I think prices may drop though.
 

Vipu

Banned
We need to get a full picture, claiming 7700k is dead is a bit ambitious. I think prices may drop though.

"Intel is planning to both adjust Kaby Lake pricing and push out some new versions directly in response to Ryzen"

So yeah they pretty much have few generations of CPUs stacked there just in case AMD someday can match them, now they can release some stuff from 2 years ago they made.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/comput...en-release-with-enhance-kaby-lake-processors/
 
what are the chances of coffeelake working on a Z170 motherboard? if not and if it offers a signficant boost in performance i may upgrade earlier than expected. was gonna wait for Icelake but Ryzen looks like it might shake things up a bit! :)
 

Mystic654

Member
Gaf! Quick question:

I'm grabbing a Noctua NH-D15 for my new build, but the brown / cream coloured fans are killing me (figuratively, of course). Any recommendations for replacement black / white fans that perform just as well? Don't want to sacrifice performance for looks, but if there's something comparable out there, I'd like it a whole lot more than...whatever this colour scheme is.

Thanks!

Noctua fans are OK, their are better fans out on the market. Noctua does have a industrial line. Which is solid black. Be warned they are loud, They can still be a bit loud even at low RPM. They also don't work well with some fan controllers on the market.

Most listed are Solid Black or White with Black & Grey.

Corsair ML Pro series (Best fans you can buy currently buy for both Silence and Performance). Has an amazing performance special for Rads. They can push the same amount of air at lower rpm that other fans would require higher RPM. They use different technology then what most fans use today.

Eloops - Another great fan, Has White fan blades With grey & Black body with great performance & silence.

BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 - Amazing fans for complete silence, a Very good fan for performance, The best when it comes to silence(Non-High Speed version).

I have a bunch of Corsair ML Pro & BeQuiet running. You can hardly hear my computer running and the temps are very low. The loudest thing in my PC is my harddrives.
 
Just leave the loop connected to all your parts.

I closely inspected the front and back of the MB and the EVO Supremacy mount was a little sketchy looking in the back so i took it block off and remounted eveything, reset the cmos and now the system agent voltage seems fine. I'm going to enable XMP and see what happens. It might still be a bios issue and unplugging it for a while might have fixed it but some of the solder points for the capacitors in the back are very close to the metal mount so there might have been a short.
 

LilJoka

Member
I closely inspected the front and back of the MB and the EVO Supremacy mount was a little sketchy looking in the back so i took it block off and remounted eveything, reset the cmos and now the system agent voltage seems fine. I'm going to enable XMP and see what happens. It might still be a bios issue and unplugging it for a while might have fixed it but some of the solder points for the capacitors in the back are very close to the metal mount so there might have been a short.

Nice one. Let's hope it stays that way.
 

LilJoka

Member
coffeelake is still 14nm same as sky/kabylake though. the first 10nm desktop processor will be Icelake.

Ah interesting. It is supposed to be 10nm according to their new 3 phase plan but they ran into trouble. It should be the "process" phase since we had skylake and kabylake at 14nm. I suspect it should work then on old boards with a bios update as it's just like going from sky to kaby.
If the SKUs are vastly different, like 6cores, then maybe not.
 

Weevilone

Member
Supposedly the 1700X numbers are done without turbo! 3.4Ghz only, probably true in multi-core stress, most CPU will run at base or 100mhz more..

Even if it is running 3.8Ghz with Broadwell IPC, it is damn good, Skylake is like 5% better IPC. $300 can get you a 8 cores part which will rekt 7700K in new games imo.

Return all 7700K now GAF!

I guess I see it differently. If it's Broadwell IPC and it's unlikely to clock as well as a 7700k then the smaller parts won't outperform 7700k.

On the other hand, of course it's going to beat a 7700k in a lot of CPU synthetic benchmarks, just like the HEDT parts do. If people were after that, they would have purchased a 6800k/6850k/6900k to begin with. Now price, sure.. I've been using a 6 core CPU since Intel first put them on the desktop (980X). It's been a great CPU, and one that made me shield my kids' eyes while I paid for it.. but it didn't really matter unless I was running a bunch of VM's or encoding video. If that's your thing then these big Ryzen's will save you a lot of cash. Edit: Crazy, thinking I've used that CPU for 7 years now. Guess it was worth the $1k?

And I've been hearing about all those "new games" that use more cores for years and years. There are some for sure, but color me skeptical.

I agree that it'll have an impact on future builds, but I don't see any real cause for remorse for 7700k buyers.
 

Sir_JD

Neo Member
Noctua fans are OK, their are better fans out on the market. Noctua does have a industrial line. Which is solid black. Be warned they are loud, They can still be a bit loud even at low RPM. They also don't work well with some fan controllers on the market.

Most listed are Solid Black or White with Black & Grey.

Corsair ML Pro series (Best fans you can buy currently buy for both Silence and Performance). Has an amazing performance special for Rads. They can push the same amount of air at lower rpm that other fans would require higher RPM. They use different technology then what most fans use today.

Eloops - Another great fan, Has White fan blades With grey & Black body with great performance & silence.

BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 - Amazing fans for complete silence, a Very good fan for performance, The best when it comes to silence(Non-High Speed version).

I have a bunch of Corsair ML Pro & BeQuiet running. You can hardly hear my computer running and the temps are very low. The loudest thing in my PC is my harddrives.

Perfect! This is exactly what I was looking for. I think I'll replace the NH-D15's with two Corsair ML Pro's to start, and then look at replacing my case ones a little later. Thanks!
 

maped

Neo Member
Yeah, I was afraid that nothing exists for what I'd like. Just thought I'd ask since I don't keep up on cases these days. I might have to switch my big drives to SSDs.

How about Bitfenix Pandora. It's m-atx, so its a bit bigger than most slim m-itx cases, but it is slim at 16 cm and can hold 2 x 3.5" or 3 x 2.5" -drives and an m-atx board, so two big hdd's, two ssd's and an itx board should be no problem. There are limits to gpu width and cpu cooler height, but that's par for the course for slim cases. And you can also use a normal atx psu and save a few bucks, just go for a modular one since there isn't too much extra space for wires.

It's a pretty well built case and especially the silver version looks really nice and understated for the price. It has filters for the intakes and psu and the pop-out sidepanels are a nice feature if you like to tinker with your insides often. Can't say much about the performance, but considering the traditional layout it should be okay with proper fans. And if you really like to go nuts, it is possible to get two 240mm rads with push/pull as well as m-atx board, full size gpu and two 3.5" drives in there without changing the look.
 

Jamaro85

Member
Anybody know anything about Viotek monitors? I'm looking at the GN27C and it hits on a lot of marks for $250. 27" 1080p (I understand this is right past the threshold some feel comfortable at for 1080p), FreeSync, 144hz, VA panel, and it is curved (I'm still not sure whether this is a desired feature or not tbh). Negatives are 4ms response time, no information on FreeSync range for LFC, and...Viotek.

It's pretty new and doesn't have many reviews out, but the reviews for the 32" are good so far. If this ends up being decent that seems like a lot I'm getting for the price. Thoughts?

Actually just read that FreeSync 2 was announced last month. Wondering if I should just wait on that but can't find anything about an estimated time table for when monitors using that might be coming out. Also assuming those will be quite a bit more expensive so perhaps I won't worry about it.
 

Phil Fish

Banned
Can someone tell me why plugging in speakers to my motherboard's 3.55mm jack, or digital coax does not bring up a playback device on my PC?

I think I forgot to plug in the HD Audio cable from my case, could that be why?
 

LilJoka

Member
Can someone tell me why plugging in speakers to my motherboard's 3.55mm jack, or digital coax does not bring up a playback device on my PC?

I think I forgot to plug in the HD Audio cable from my case, could that be why?

Motherboard jacks don't need the HDAudio cable. The cable is for the case front panel jacks.
You don't need drivers either for this to work.
Make sure audio is enabled in the bios and the audio device appears in device manager.
In playback devices you should see the onboard speakers output.
 
So how much will my I5 2500k @ 4.5Ghz be a limiting factor with my new Gigabyte 1080 xtreme gaming?

Will I see big gains buying a better socket 1150 cpu, or should I just wait till I upgrade my whole system?

Will be playing at 1440p.

At 1440p, less so than 1080p but you'll still struggle with modern titles like bf1 where the CPU will by at its knees at 90-100% causing massive dips in minimum frame rates.

I have a 2500k @4.6 wth a 970, and I'll be upgrading my Mobo CPU and RAM first. I'm fully confident my GPU can work a bit harder with the extra breathing room of a new CPU.
 

maped

Neo Member
So how much will my I5 2500k @ 4.5Ghz be a limiting factor with my new Gigabyte 1080 xtreme gaming?

Will I see big gains buying a better socket 1150 cpu, or should I just wait till I upgrade my whole system?

Will be playing at 1440p.

Gamersnexus just had an article about this exact question, it's worth a read. It also has the 2600k to show the performance of the upgrade path. I also really like their way of representing game performance by putting an emphasis on the of minimum framerates instead of just showing min, max and average.

I'm also in the process of pricing up a new machine to replace the current 2500k@4.5/z77-itx/290x. At the moment I'm leaning towards AMD if there are no big negative surprises with Ryzen, the early leaks seem to fulfill the promises given and if the price is right I'm in.
 

Phil Fish

Banned
Motherboard jacks don't need the HDAudio cable. The cable is for the case front panel jacks.
You don't need drivers either for this to work.
Make sure audio is enabled in the bios and the audio device appears in device manager.
In playback devices you should see the onboard speakers output.

Huh, you think audio would ever be disabled by default for some reason? I'll check that when I can in any case, thanks.
 

Leonidas

AMD's Dogma: ARyzen (No Intel inside)
Question to those who have played games at 144fps, is it hard to go back to 60fps?

I want to upgrade to a 144hz monitor but I don't want 60fps to look bad(it's very smooth for me right now).
 

Blank!

Member
Hey,

So I'm in need of a new PC, my current one being 10+ years old. I've done some looking around and I've come up with this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.69 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($76.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($130.58 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($379.99 @ Jet)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Acer GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($197.98 @ Directron)
Total: $1408.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-11 16:36 EST-0500


Couple things:

1- I'm looking to shave off some dollars, any changes/part switches I can make that won't impact performance too badly? I'd like to shave off $100ish bucks if possible but if it'll change things too much, I'll keep it as is.

2- Any clear parts I should avoid/upgrade that won't cost an arm and a leg?

3- I haven't built a PC in a while, I plan on installing win10 to the SSD and believe I have that ready. Is there anything tricky to install on this list?

4- Anti-virus/malware recommendations? I'm trying to keep my PC more... tidy, than my current one and setup various cleaning schedules. Was never very good about this though.


Any other tips appreciated, thanks :)
 

Vipu

Banned
Question to those who have played games at 144fps, is it hard to go back to 60fps?

I want to upgrade to a 144hz monitor but I don't want 60fps to look bad(it's very smooth for me right now).

Depends from game, stable 60 is still fine after 144 after you play on 60 for a bit to get "used to it".
Thats pretty stupid imo to not go for 144 because of being scared that you are ruined after...


Hey,

So I'm in need of a new PC, my current one being 10+ years old. I've done some looking around and I've come up with this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.69 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($76.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($130.58 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($379.99 @ Jet)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Acer GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($197.98 @ Directron)
Total: $1408.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-11 16:36 EST-0500


Couple things:

1- I'm looking to shave off some dollars, any changes/part switches I can make that won't impact performance too badly? I'd like to shave off $100ish bucks if possible but if it'll change things too much, I'll keep it as is.

2- Any clear parts I should avoid/upgrade that won't cost an arm and a leg?

3- I haven't built a PC in a while, I plan on installing win10 to the SSD and believe I have that ready. Is there anything tricky to install on this list?

4- Anti-virus/malware recommendations? I'm trying to keep my PC more... tidy, than my current one and setup various cleaning schedules. Was never very good about this though.


Any other tips appreciated, thanks :)

New AMD cpu is released start of next month, if you are not in hurry you should wait.
 
Looking for some good GAF advice with my current pc build.

I run a nvidia msi gaming gtx980ti card in my current system. It works really well but after an hour or so of gaming it either starts flickering green squares on the screen or just causes the game to crash. I have the core clock overclocked by +100mhz and the memory overclocked by +250mhz. Any idea what I might have to adjust for it to behave?

Also I run a lot of my games on a 4k tv. Framerates are okay but I am tempted to go ahead and upgrade to the 1080 card. For those who have, does it make sense to go from the 980ti to the 180? Would like some thoughts on that.
 

Weevilone

Member
I'm trying to figure out how to get 4K to my TV via Nvidia Shield Gamestreaming. My monitor is 3440x1440, so even when I set the Shield side to 4k@60 via the settings (for Ethernet), I still get 3440x1440.

I know there is a workaround but I haven't figured it out yet. Thanks.
 

Smokey

Member
Question to those who have played games at 144fps, is it hard to go back to 60fps?

I want to upgrade to a 144hz monitor but I don't want 60fps to look bad(it's very smooth for me right now).

Nah. It's a noticeable difference, but 60+ is smooth regardless.
 

Bloodember

Member
Looking for some good GAF advice with my current pc build.

I run a nvidia msi gaming gtx980ti card in my current system. It works really well but after an hour or so of gaming it either starts flickering green squares on the screen or just causes the game to crash. I have the core clock overclocked by +100mhz and the memory overclocked by +250mhz. Any idea what I might have to adjust for it to behave?

Also I run a lot of my games on a 4k tv. Framerates are okay but I am tempted to go ahead and upgrade to the 1080 card. For those who have, does it make sense to go from the 980ti to the 180? Would like some thoughts on that.

Sounds like it's overheating. What's the temperature of your gpu when it starts doing that?
 
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