It won't burn out even if you let it run at 80c.
Take off and clean the CPU heatsink and reapply the thermal paste. Temps will drop to normal levels.
What GPU do you have? It'll determine the bottleneck, if any.
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It won't burn out even if you let it run at 80c.
Take off and clean the CPU heatsink and reapply the thermal paste. Temps will drop to normal levels.
What GPU do you have? It'll determine the bottleneck, if any.
EroticSushi
Member
edit: figured it out
The Lamonster
Member
I want to ground myself with a wrist strap attached to the PSU cage. Should the power switch on the PSU be on or off?
Celcius
°Temp. member
Just had my first "wow" moment with my Samsung 960 Pro. Now that I'm done tinkering with system settings I decided to play Overwatch and after selecting my character it jumped into the game instantaneously. It was fast with my 840 Pro before but there's definitely a difference now.
Cranking the fan speed up to 100% for a while should get rid of him. If not, load up a gpu stress test to turn up the heat.
Cranking the fan speed up to 100% for a while should get rid of him. If not, load up a gpu stress test to turn up the heat.
NO_Quarter25
Member
PCGaf I need some help. I just got all my parts for a new build and put it together tonight. I go to turn it on and nothing happens 
I made sure the actual switch on the back of the power supply is on and press the power button on the computer case but nothing seems to happen, no fans spin(case fans or PSU the fan), no noise or even an attempt to boot. There is a Clear CMOS light on the rear I/O panel that for a split second lights up upon switching the PSU switch on then goes out. I've double and triple checked the case power button is plugged in the right spot on the mobo. This is my 3rd build however its been a good 5 years or so since the last one, so I'm a little rusty.
Specs:
i7 7700K
MSI Z270 GAMING M5 LGA 1151 Intel Z270 ATX
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 80+ GOLD 750W Fully Modular
Fractal Design R5
Crucial m.2 1tb SSD (SATA)
MSI GTX 1080
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
Bad mobo? Bad PSU? What am I over looking bc there is always something lol
I made sure the actual switch on the back of the power supply is on and press the power button on the computer case but nothing seems to happen, no fans spin(case fans or PSU the fan), no noise or even an attempt to boot. There is a Clear CMOS light on the rear I/O panel that for a split second lights up upon switching the PSU switch on then goes out. I've double and triple checked the case power button is plugged in the right spot on the mobo. This is my 3rd build however its been a good 5 years or so since the last one, so I'm a little rusty.
Specs:
i7 7700K
MSI Z270 GAMING M5 LGA 1151 Intel Z270 ATX
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 80+ GOLD 750W Fully Modular
Fractal Design R5
Crucial m.2 1tb SSD (SATA)
MSI GTX 1080
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
Bad mobo? Bad PSU? What am I over looking bc there is always something lol
Dissemble and reassemble your build.
Make sure everything is properly inserted. My PC didn't boot the first time because my RAM wasn't clicked in. My OS boot was flaky because of a loose screw in my M.2 SSD. It's always the dumb things.
Anybody have experience with/advice on FreeSync monitors? I'm going for 24" 1080p and am not trying to spend more than $250 (this is going with an RX 480).
I see ASUS has a 75hz model for under $200 (sold out on Amazon but like $189 on NewEgg), and I'm wondering if I'd regret getting that over another brand 144hz (ASUS FreeSync/144hz options are a lot more expensive it seems).
AOC has a 144hz model for $209.99, but I don't know anything about AOC. This seems to be the cheapest 24" FreeSync 144hz model you can get, so I'm concerned that it may not be the best quality monitor.
ViewSonic has a 75hz model for $139.99, but I again wonder if I'd be getting what I pay for.
Ultimately I want a good overall monitor with the best picture quality possible in the lower price ranges, and I don't think being limited to 75 FPS will be a huge deal with my graphics card and the types of games I'll generally be playing. I doubt I would be, but do you guys think I'd be doing myself a disservice by getting 75hz instead of 144hz? And are there particular brands I'd be best off going with, such as ASUS or Samsung?
I see ASUS has a 75hz model for under $200 (sold out on Amazon but like $189 on NewEgg), and I'm wondering if I'd regret getting that over another brand 144hz (ASUS FreeSync/144hz options are a lot more expensive it seems).
AOC has a 144hz model for $209.99, but I don't know anything about AOC. This seems to be the cheapest 24" FreeSync 144hz model you can get, so I'm concerned that it may not be the best quality monitor.
ViewSonic has a 75hz model for $139.99, but I again wonder if I'd be getting what I pay for.
Ultimately I want a good overall monitor with the best picture quality possible in the lower price ranges, and I don't think being limited to 75 FPS will be a huge deal with my graphics card and the types of games I'll generally be playing. I doubt I would be, but do you guys think I'd be doing myself a disservice by getting 75hz instead of 144hz? And are there particular brands I'd be best off going with, such as ASUS or Samsung?
Whoops, I see the edit. Sorry.
Samsung's had significant problems getting stock of the 960s to market. Looks like all of the 960 EVOs on Amazon are at 1-2 months.
Samsung's had significant problems getting stock of the 960s to market. Looks like all of the 960 EVOs on Amazon are at 1-2 months.
ColdDeckEd
Member
I've got that AOC freesync monitor, and it's a great value. Build quality is good and no dead pixels on mine. If you are ok with 1080p, then it's a fine choice.
GPUs also have the highest resale value. The GPU is the only thing I've continually messed with in my rig. Everything else is set.
Amazon Choice for gaming monitor category too. Interesting.
JonnyDBrit
Member
PCGaf I need some help. I just got all my parts for a new build and put it together tonight. I go to turn it on and nothing happens
I made sure the actual switch on the back of the power supply is on and press the power button on the computer case but nothing seems to happen, no fans spin(case fans or PSU the fan), no noise or even an attempt to boot. There is a Clear CMOS light on the rear I/O panel that for a split second lights up upon switching the PSU switch on then goes out. I've double and triple checked the case power button is plugged in the right spot on the mobo. This is my 3rd build however its been a good 5 years or so since the last one, so I'm a little rusty.
Specs:
i7 7700K
MSI Z270 GAMING M5 LGA 1151 Intel Z270 ATX
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 80+ GOLD 750W Fully Modular
Fractal Design R5
Crucial m.2 1tb SSD (SATA)
MSI GTX 1080
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
Bad mobo? Bad PSU? What am I over looking bc there is always something lol
Reseat things in order, starting with the power supply's connection to the motherboard itself. If need be, swap the connector you use for it - it might be the cable put in is the one that's not working.
appaws
Banned
PC GAF are the outest of outliers....
Take a look at the steam stats or even some of the facebook groups for a more realistic picture of the mass of PC gamers.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
is tihs a good HDD?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16822178993&cm_sp=
Also, the best thing is to buy a regular drive like above with a SSD correct? Then you install windows on the SSD, and whatever game you are currently playing on SSD correct? or you just use the ssd for the windows and put all games on the regular HD?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16822178993&cm_sp=
Also, the best thing is to buy a regular drive like above with a SSD correct? Then you install windows on the SSD, and whatever game you are currently playing on SSD correct? or you just use the ssd for the windows and put all games on the regular HD?
While I can't speak for the visual quality of any of the monitors, the AOC one has by far the best specification when it comes to Freesync itself. Something you need to keep in mind when buying Freesync monitors is that each monitor has a range of refresh rates it supports via Freesync. You want this range to be as big as possible, but most importantly you want there to be a 2.5x or more ratio between the bottom and top of the range, because this means the monitor will support something called low frame rate compensation (or LFC). This allows AMD's drivers to give you most of the benefits of Freesync even below the minimum refresh rate of the monitor by doubling up frames.
The monitors you're looking at have the following Freesync ranges (ratios in brackets):
Asus VG245H - 40Hz to 75Hz (1.87x)
AOC G2460PF - 35Hz to 144Hz (4.11x)
ViewSonic VX2457 - 48Hz to 75Hz (1.56x)
As you can see, only the AOC model has the 2.5x or above ratio necessary to support LFC. This means that if your frame rate dips below 40 fps on the Asus or 48 fps on the ViewSonic you drop back to regular old v-sync. In comparison, the AOC monitor will give you the benefits of Freesync pretty much everywhere from 1 fps to 144 fps. Added to the fact that you get 144Hz support in the first place, if you're buying a monitor specifically for Freesync then the AOC model would seem like by far the best one to go for.
nightmare-slain
Banned
i'm not sure. i see a lot of people use WD blue's. i imagine the seagate would be fine though.
ideally you would have just an SSD but of course they are still expensive especially if you need 1TB+ so yeah a lot of people buy a small capacity SSD (128-512GB usually but depends on your budget of course) and use it as a boot drive to install windows on and any applications/games they use a lot to they can benefit from the speed boost. the standard HDD is used to then store less important applications/games and movie/picture/text files. i wouldn't go with a 5400rpm unless you really need the capacity. ideally you'd want a 7200rpm.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Depends on the size of the SSD.
At the very least, it should be your OS drive, yes. That will let you boot the system, and run various applications installed to it, very quickly.
If you have space left over, and a game that's well known for long loading times, then you may consider putting those on the SSD to save some time. However it's perfectly acceptable and normal for most games to go on the HDD, due to the sheer difference in availability of space, while major games are just getting bigger and bigger.
I'm building a PC this year for the first time since 2012, and the GPU market seems to be in a much weirder place than I remember it then.
I'll be going for either a 1060 or an RX 480, and yeah that feels like a real baseline as far as "guaranteed" 1080/60 on high/ultra settings. The steps up beyond that are at £400+ and £600+ respectively. Feels like there's nowhere near as much.. lets say "range", as there was the last time I built a PC. I didn't pay anywhere near £400 for a GPU back then that gave me similar performance.. relatively speaking.
Then again I bet there's some price and exchange rate hijinks factored into that as well. Planning a rig in Britain relative to the US prices on PC Part Picker etc has been.. frustrating.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
ok, so the best combo in terms of bang for you buck would be a SSD 250gb and a HDD 1-2tb?
NO_Quarter25
Member
Thanks for the help guys, turns out my dumb ass had the power LEDs and the power switch mixed up, I have a bit of dyslexia from time to time lol
nightmare-slain
Banned
yep. here in the UK a 250GB ssd + 3TB hdd would cost about £174. a 1tb ssd starts at about £280.
I have a 250gb SSD and 1tb HDD but I wish I went 500gb SSD and 4tb HDD. I'm already out of space and my computer is from late 2013.
nightmare-slain
Banned
well HDD's are much cheaper than SSD's so i'd say you should always get the largest capacity SSD you can fit in your budget. 256GB is fine but if you can get a 512GB then even better.
JonnyDBrit
Member
On the HDD side of things, it can depend on price. I got a 3 TB harddrive for Christmas when I'd only asked for 2, because the 2TB was only £10 cheaper than the 3TB, and it was getting 50% more space for only 20-25% extra (I think the 2TB was in the £50-ish range at the time). It's post-Christmas now though, so deals may not be as good.
It's often the little things. Glad you got it working.
Shadowheart
Member
I upgraded from an i7 870 to an i7 7700k. Here's a video with benchmarks at the end:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwHfDFIUNF0&t=6s
The i7 870 cpu used to reach 90c+ under load and the computer would abruptley shot down. Try re-applying thermal paste.
I upgraded the GPU and RAM and was playing games fine. It's just the overheating and the shutting down that made me upgrade the CPU as well. I would re-apply thermal paste then see the temps again (and if you are able, use a proper CPU cooler rather than stock- if you are using stock). It's a pretty good CPU and software is still catching up- generally speaking. It's the GPUs that are usually the bottleneck.
Infinite Justice
Member
Yea these parts are actually expensive, even though they are what is considered "bang for buck"/value
Clearly. :/
I get that but it was kinda eye opening someone would think that when these cards can be expensive and offers pretty good performance.
And to be fair its just one person and not PC GAF at large, hell Smokey was questioning the post and that guy is as outlier as they come (iirc he was running Quad SLI Titans or 980s at one point)
I'm in the same boat actually (haven't built a new PC since 2012) and i do believe that the bang for buck isn't like earlier years but i feel with performance of these cards you have more time to coast a bit until newer cards arrive.
Also as said by other posters the GPU is usually the most upgraded or most eligible to upgrade compared to the other parts.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
thoughts on those cases?
they look badass, and it seems the cable management is easy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LW3X1GO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLHP4RO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
they look badass, and it seems the cable management is easy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LW3X1GO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLHP4RO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
nightmare-slain
Banned
i like the look of the second one and yeah there looks to be plenty of space for cables at the back going by this image:
JonnyDBrit
Member
Is this a new PC? A problem that's only developed recently?
Sword Of Doom
Member
I returned my ASrock Z170 iTX and got an Asus Z270i for my 6700k and I am not very happy with the Asus. The auto voltages are way too high. When I enable the XMB profile for the RAM my system agent voltage is 1.435 which is insanely high and even when I set the voltage to 1.05v manually when I restart it changes it back to 1.4 and above. With XMB off I am getting 1.3+ volts which is also ridiculous.
wtf asus?? am I doing something wrong here? I really don't feel like manually inputting all my voltages when I'm not even overclocking.
wtf asus?? am I doing something wrong here? I really don't feel like manually inputting all my voltages when I'm not even overclocking.
nightmare-slain
Banned
auto voltages are always way too high. my 6700K was hitting 1.4V at stock with my MSI. even if you're not overclocking you should manually set the core voltage but i'm not sure about the other ones i just manually set my core/dram. do you mean 1.3V+ for stock speeds? at 1.3V i could get my cpu to 4.4GHz. for 4.5GHz i need 1.34V and for 4.6GHz about 1.385-1.4V.
sleepnaught
Member
I upgraded from an i7 870 to an i7 7700k. Here's a video with benchmarks at the end:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwHfDFIUNF0&t=6s
The i7 870 cpu used to reach 90c+ under load and the computer would abruptley shot down. Try re-applying thermal paste.
I upgraded the GPU and RAM and was playing games fine. It's just the overheating and the shutting down that made me upgrade the CPU as well. I would re-apply thermal paste then see the temps again (and if you are able, use a proper CPU cooler rather than stock- if you are using stock). It's a pretty good CPU and software is still catching up- generally speaking. It's the GPUs that are usually the bottleneck.
Yeah I've got my i7 920 oc'ed to 4ghz with a 212 Evo cooler, 12gb ram, and a GTX 1070. The problem with the temps seems to be the VREG is sky high temp wise and leaks ton of hot air in the case. The chipset fan also is clogged with hair and dust and looks to be dead.
At this point it's barely getting by as is and I'll probably just put it out of its misery once Ryzen is revealed. Will be a hella of run though, bought this in early late 2008/early 2009 iirc so I can't complain. I just have to convince myself the $650 to upgrade is worth the gains.
Sword Of Doom
Member
The thing is skylake CPU's have SVID which is a factory set voltage for the CPU and on the Asus initially my core voltage was also around 1.4 until I enabled SVID in the bios and the core voltage went down to 1.264 which is exactly as it was on the asrock. Now I'm trying to deal with the system agent voltage which is supposed to be around 1.05-1.15 V so it's really concerning when the motherboard is reporting 1.4+ volts even when I set it manually much lower than that. Not sure if it's a brand new motherboard and needs a bios update or what? There are no updates available at the moment and if I call support I'm pretty sure they're not gonna have any idea what I'm talking about
Edit** yes stock 6700k speeds
Nyteshade517
Member
looking at HDD reviews is a good way of scaring yourself into buying 0 HDDs ever
seems like it all comes down to rolling the dice and hoping for the best in whatever you pick
seems like it all comes down to rolling the dice and hoping for the best in whatever you pick
Two rules for buying HDDs:
1. Maintain regular backups of all your important data
2. So long as you've got 1, don't worry too much about HDD failure rates
All data storage can fail, whether it's HDDs or SSDs, and whether it's an internal failure or an external failure (i.e. PSU fault, power surge, etc.). Even the most reliable storage should still be backed up, and once you're backing up failure rates simply become an amortised cost as you replace the faulty drives.
Just don't use XMP and set VCCIO/VCCSA and VDIMM manually. Set the primary timings and DRAM Freq too.
You don't say what speed the XMP is so we can't answer your questions.
Make sure you are on the latest BIOS version.
VCCSA and VCCIO should be around 1.10-1.20v for 3000mhz.
The Lamonster
Member
Thanks!
Built this PC about 8 months ago, the problem only started about 4 months ago.
Sword Of Doom
Member
I will set everything manually. But like I said earlier, I should not have to do that. I understand how to
Do all this but I shouldn't have to. And the main issue I'm having is that the bios is ignoring my manual VCCSA voltage of 1.15v and still assigning 1.4V with XMP on or OFF. It's a brand new releases motherboard so there are no bios updates.
Also I appreciate the feedback. Thank you. DRAM frequency is 3000mhz
LilJoka gon get ya
Jezbollah
Member
Have you opened up your PC to find out if the noise is coming from your pump or from the rad? Have you isolated the fans away from the radiator and tried to power the system on?
I have a H100i, and the only noise I hear from the pump itself when its powered on is a tiny sound of liquid ingestion. The only thing you should expect to hear spin up is the fans on the rad.
Wow after trying that, it's definitely my fan. Gonna get a replacement.. better than having to replace the whole unit! Thanks!
Edit: Actually, it's just a minor annoyance on start up.. I just feel better knowing where the problem is. I'll probably just keep using it as is lol.
Jezbollah
Member
Awesome, glad I could help
I was thinking when reading your post that it might be due to the fans spinning up on post. But if you do decide to get replacements, be sure to get some static pressure fans (I use Noctua SP fans on mine) as they're designed for use with rads.BolognaOni
Member
If it's making that much noise it's liable to burn out at any given time. I'd swap it. If it's relatively new you can try getting a replacement out of Corsair, but either way fans are not that expensive relative to the stuff they're cooling, and having one burn out is an inconvenience at best, and smoke at worst.
My Asus does the same thing. If I leave those 2 voltages on Auto they go ham.
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