I might have to rma my be quiet cpu fan for making a high pitched noise. Before I submit the request can anyone please verify I'm not the only one who can hear It? Thanks.
https://streamable.com/rdq1i
https://streamable.com/rdq1i
Update: Dell canceled my order.
Heyo, I've got a new GTX 1060 paired with my old i5-2400 (correct, not a 2500/K), and I can't seem to hit a constant 60 in almost anything I play. Does this seem accurate? I tend to play multiplayer shooters like Battlefield 1 and Overwatch on low since I'm aiming for a high framerate over fidelity, but I have a hard time understanding- is the 2400 insufficient even on the lowest fidelity settings?
Your Current Specs:
i7 2600k
20gb ddr3 1600 ram
GTX 1070
1.5 tb sata
300gb sata
Budget: ~$700, USA
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p, I do the custom res to 1440p to get a little more beauty out of my games
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: TW: Warhammer, BF1, Witcher 3
Looking to reuse any parts?: video card and hard drives.
When will you build?: within a month
Will you be overclocking?: A little on the cpu, but I don't mess with my video card settings.
Essentially, I've had the same parts except for the video card and ram since 2011 and I've noticed the games getting bogged down at 1440p compared to the benchmarks I see, and I see benchmarks for the i5 7600k looking real nice, so I'm thinking it's mostly to do with my cpu and 1600 ram. I haven't built an entire system since 2011, so I'm a little out of the loop. I know I want a new case because I plan to put my gtx 970 into the old system and re-purpose it for other things.
Any help would be appreciated
If your going to spend that kind of money get a 7000 series or at least a 6000 series processor.Is there anything you guys can think of to make this build cheaper? My boyfriend needs a computer for video editing in university and we're trying to keep the cost as low as possible without sacrificing performance. This is what I've come up with so far but it's still pretty high. Keep in mind that this is in CAD (RIP) so cutting corners is even harder. :/
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/mjbtNN
I built my first and only computer back in May so any advice is appreciated.
Thoughts on this build for gaming? (Will be at 1920*1200, at least for now. May potentially buy higher res monitor in the future)
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K
CPU fan: Noctua NH-U14S
Motherboard: MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbon
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2B3000C15
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black
PSU: Corsair RM550x
Other than that. Budget is not fixed, but around the same cost as this (~1600) is about what I would want to spend at most (reference https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/ for prices here in the Netherlands). Won't be doing much if any OCing at first, but would like to keep the option open in the future. Will be building ASAP since my current PC keeps crapping out. It's working again for now, but it'll go back to constantly crashing soon enough I'm sure. Haven't got any specific games that need to run well, but just want to be able to play pretty much everything well for a few years. CPU performance (particularly per core) is very important for strategy games, I've noticed the 4670k in my current PC has been the bottleneck in more games for me than the GPU (770 4GB)
Oh, and intend to reuse some HDDs from my current PC. One 500GB SSD, and a few mechanical drives.
If your going to spend that kind of money get a 7000 series or at least a 6000 series processor.
The idea is that he doesn't want to spend that kind of money.Ideally, keeping the build under $1000 is the goal.
Thinking about sending my good (but old) Scythe Mugen 2 CPU cooler in pension and to buy a water cooler for my 6700k. It's running now at 4.5ghz (1.32V) and ~67°C under heavy load.
I'm thinking about getting a Corsair H100i V2 240 mm.
1.) Can I expect to reach a better overclock (just for the sake of doing it, because it's not really needed) and better temperatures simultaneously? (Was looking at 4.8-4.9ghz... maybe)
2.) Are there better (or similar but cheaper) water cooling options, which are still easy to install? (Building my own PCs now for years, but never reached out to water cooling...). I'm willing to spend ~130€.
My newly built computer won't work
I have a MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon and when I turn it on all the fans work as expected, I see that the graphics card have power etc.
The motherboard has EZ Debug LED with three different LEDs (CPU, DRAM, VGA) that should indicate if there's anything wrong. From googling it seems like it's normal that these light up one at a time when powering on. The CPU lights up for a short moment, then DRAM for a slightly longer moment. Then nothing (VGA never lights up), and all debug LEDs are off.
The thing is, I bought a new Kaby Lake 7600K, and even though this board has support for it, I think it may need a firmware update. Could it be that it can't boot without an update? If the CPU was unsupported, shouldn't the CPU debug LED light up?
Edit: By "won't work", I mean I'm not able to get a display signal.
Something like this probably. Didn't include a case as that is a lot of personal preference based on appearance and what not.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($161.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($93.99 @ Jet)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Jet)
Total: $608.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 04:08 EST-0500
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.89 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($85.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.97 @ Jet)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $503.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 05:56 EST-0500
Quite odd, i would expect it to show the CPU LED lit and stay lit if its not able to POST.
Have you made sure the GPU is has all its PCIE Sockets plugged in to the PSU PCIE power cables?
Made sure the display cable is connected to the GPU and NOT the motherboard outputs?
Yes. There's actually a green light on the GPU that turns red if the power cables are not plugged in. I've tried the display cable in both the GPU and motherboard. I think it's a bit weird that the VGA debug LED never lights up though, since it seems like it should cycle though all three on boot.
My case don't have a speaker/buzzer so maybe the first step is to get one (I didn't know before assembling everything today) so I can hear if there's any beeps that can tell me something.
Your case may have come with a buzzer in its accessories box.
Remove the GPU and plug the display cable in the motherboard display output.
Plugging the display cable into the motherbaord output when a GPU is installed will never work.
Unfortunately I doesn't look like it did ... though I think I might have a super old computer around the house somewhere that maybe I can scavenge one from. I've tried plugging in the display cable into the motherboard, without the GPU, no difference.
I'm not sure what my next step is ... I don't feel like buying another CPU just to see if the problem lies there (that my CPU is unsupported with the current firmware).
It is very likely that the board needs a bios update, thats what has been required in the past.
Asus forums also agreed, only their boards with bios flashback (flashing a bios without a CPU) could be updated without a skylake chip.
You could try buying a Pentium skylake chip, using it to update and then sell on ebay.
Consider mATX or ITX formfactor, no real need for ATX.
Won't it be easier to fit extra HDDs and what not in an ATX case?
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($145.03 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter
Total: $1498.40
1) Since your temps are good, you can test the chips potential right now. We cannot answer this for you. A better cooler will just drop temps further and allow you to push more vcore safely. But if the chip hits a wall, then a better cooler wont do anything to help. You can test this on your current setup. BTW 60c seems very cold for a 6700k at 4.5ghz 1.32v - what is "heavy load"?
2) Closed loop coolers are so simple, cant get easier than them. If you want better performance and higher quality parts consider some of the EK watercooling kits.
Heavy load is stressing the CPU with CPU-Z stress test, TimeSpy CPU bench in a loop or Aida64.
I seem to be able to hit 4.8 @ 1.38V, but temperatures are a bit high on average (~80°C). I'd rather not test even higher voltages or clock speeds.
Depends, installation is really exactly the same but usually the smaller the case the lower total drives you can fit.
Something like a Node 304 ITX can fit 4 HDDs plus an SSD or two with a full length GPU.
How many HDDs have you got?
OK - Aida64 would be the only one i consider load testing, but its in the easy category.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
Marathon-Man:
OCCT S
Linpack (Max) (From Intel's website, not from OCCT or any other place or XTU.)
P95 28.7 S
Tough:
P95 27.9
IBT (Max)
Medium:
x264 16T
ROG Realbench
Easy:
Stockfish (Chess, BMI2 version)
XTU
Aida64 (Full Suite)
Walk in the Park:
Cinebench
Firestrike
Booting into Windows
But since you can boot it and run Aida64 - the chips is pretty good, you are therefore just cooling limited. Just ask yourself if the cost of a h115 is worth 300mhz.
This kit made my build in the extremely hard PC-05sx case a breese, i recommend it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMLCYVU/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Alright, thanks for the help!
Three mechanical ones, and an SSD. What case should I get, and what motherboard if I was to decide to go smaller? And is the rest of the proposed build good?
Depends, installation is really exactly the same but usually the smaller the case the lower total drives you can fit.
Something like a Node 304 ITX can fit 4 HDDs plus an SSD or two with a full length GPU.
How many HDDs have you got?
Can I get an opinion on this Acer prebuilt?
https://newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883101473
I'm kind of concerned it may be too good to be true.
If anyone has 9000 bucks lying around the house and wants to own the Gaming laptop to surpass all other gaming laptops?
Meet the Acer Predator 21x
that link is 404'ing for me.
Heyo, I've got a new GTX 1060 paired with my old i5-2400 (correct, not a 2500/K), and I can't seem to hit a constant 60 in almost anything I play. Does this seem accurate? I tend to play multiplayer shooters like Battlefield 1 and Overwatch on low since I'm aiming for a high framerate over fidelity, but I have a hard time understanding- is the 2400 insufficient even on the lowest fidelity settings?
Do you mean this one? That link is not working.Can I get an opinion on this Acer prebuilt?
https://newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16883101473
I'm kind of concerned it may be too good to be true.
Should be fixed now
This just happened to me, but with an Msi board and 7700k. Luckily I hadnt opened anything before I found out So now I'm just returning the CPU and getting a skylake, I like the board a lot.
So with a possible buyer of my 970, I'm tempted again by the EVGA variant of the 1070. Is there a way to tell if this card has the fix already for their issue? How big of a deal was that issue? I only remember hearing about it. Should I stay away from EVGA?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-su...ess-3-0-graphics-card/5450703.p?skuId=5450703
Do you mean this one? That link is not working.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883101473&Tpk=N82E16883101473
It looks like a good deal in my opinion. For the price I would say it is hard to beat for a prebuilt since the GPU is $200 and that CPU costs $300. The Motherboard and PSU are probably cheap models, but that isn't a big concern. If you put the CPU/Motherboard at $500 then I feel like it is probably about what you'd pay for those parts individually if you built it yourself assuming you find Windows 10 for cheap.
My CPU temp is still high. It start at 45 and only goes higher at idle temps.
Yeah I was mostly concerned about the Motherboard and PSU being cheap and unreliable. How concerned should I be realistically? How likely are they to fail?