Calibrated Chaos
Member
What's a good non ultrawide monitor to pair with my x34? Ideally 2k ips so the colors and Res match
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
crimsonheadGCN
Banned
I decided to get a mechanical keyboard for my new PC build. I went with a Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (Cherry MX Blue Switches, Per-Key RGB Lighting, Full Size)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D3BDNF6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
$112 for Amazon Prime users and $20 rebate if you buy it on Amazon before the end of August.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D3BDNF6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
$112 for Amazon Prime users and $20 rebate if you buy it on Amazon before the end of August.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
what do you expect? monitors ALWAYS have crappy speakers, that is why most of the high end ones don't even bother installing them.
speakers should not be a deal breaker for a monitor, specially high end.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Would a 1070 be decently future proof for the foreseeable future? Or should I spend a little more and get the 1080?
RumblingRosco
Member
If you want a bit more future-proofing, I'd go for the 1080 if it isn't above your budget. The 1070 will do great now and will probably be good for a while, but the 1080 will last some degree longer. I can't quantify that, unfortunately.
Jezbollah
Member
Nah I think you're good with that. There are some good deals on 1080s now TIs are out, some may be closer to some 1070 prices.
Depends what resolution you're playing at, what framerate you're happy with, and what your upgrade path is like elsewhere.
If you're playing at 1080p and don't plan on changing for a while you'll be fine. I'm using a 980ti still but game on a 1080p tv.
If you're hoping to game at 4k then the 1070 is already underpowered. Unless you're happy with 30fps in demanding games.
The advantage with pc gaming though is you can lower settings if you want to improve the framerate. I just personally hate having to lower settings in a game, it makes me die a little inside lol.
If I'm totally honest the 1080ti isn't even quite there for 4k yet, although much better than the 980ti was.. Yes it can give very good performance but I'm waitng for cards that demolish games in 4k.
Oh and another thing, I don't know whether I'd bother buying a graphics card yet, these cards have been out for a while, I'd wait, either for new cards, or so that these drop in price slightly.
I feel kinda sick that I missed out on a 1080ti on Amazon for not much more than £500 (think it was 540ish)
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
It would mainly be 1080p, aiming for 144hz, with 60 at medium.
I'll eventually get a 4k TV so I may get the 1080 if it isn't too much more compared to the 1070
What's the best 1070/1080 variant?
I personally stick with EVGA because of their warranty and step up program.
The best variant can also depend on your case and cooling. Some cases are better suited to founder editions so that you don't have hot air blowing into your case. In that case the manufacturer becomes irrelevant aside from the best warranty.
Otherwise if you don't need a stock blower (or are watercooling) it might be worth looking closely at benchmarks to see what variant has the best performance. High end Asus cards are usually a safe bet, but I wouldn't know off the top of my head as I've not paid much attention to this gen of cards.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Well monitor speakers are pretty much all bullshit but was this a budget set? How much did you pay?
Broadbandito
Member
$400 1080 FE vs $499 Gigabyte 1080 Windforce for $499.
Is it worth the extra $100 for aftermarket or nah?
Is it worth the extra $100 for aftermarket or nah?
ISee
Member
That's for you to decide.
1080 FE
+price
+ejects hot air out of the case
- loud
- runs hotter than costum cards
- one 8 pin power connection
1080 Windforce
+more quiet
+card runs cooler
+able to boost to a higher clockspeed
+card has a higher OC potential
-one 8 pin power connection
-preheated air (by the gpu) is ejected into the case
- more expansive
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Depends how much you value the extra clock rates. If you're not planing to do a lot of OC'ing and messing with clocks, voltage, BIOS, etc. then the FE will be fine, Keep in mind the extra power in terms of actual game performance/FPS amounts to very little but the aftermarket cards do run cooler and quieter in addition to being faster.
400 dollars 1080 is hysterical, the same card is 580-600 euro's here.
RumblingRosco
Member
Is this SSD for $230 a solid price for a 960 GB 2.5" SSD?
It's an older model that is basically a budget SSD, but I'm just looking for a ~1 TB SSD - I am not too concerned about speeds between different SSDs, as I'd be using this to replace a 5400 RPM HDD for video editing, so this would still be a huge upgrade, I think.
It's an older model that is basically a budget SSD, but I'm just looking for a ~1 TB SSD - I am not too concerned about speeds between different SSDs, as I'd be using this to replace a 5400 RPM HDD for video editing, so this would still be a huge upgrade, I think.
Hi guys, i just build my new PC with the following specs:
- AMD Ryzen 5 1600
- GTX 1060
- DDR4 3000 16 gb
- 1tb HDD
- Corsair Carbide 270R
I'm really happy with my build and I can run recent games smoothly @1080p60 with my TV. Just last night my PC getting weird though since all games that I played are suddenly limited to 40 fps when previously it's running smoothly at 60 fps (Witcher 3, Hitman 2016, and heck even Football Manager). Anybody knows what happened to my PC? Should I uninstall the VGA driver and reinstall it back? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
- AMD Ryzen 5 1600
- GTX 1060
- DDR4 3000 16 gb
- 1tb HDD
- Corsair Carbide 270R
I'm really happy with my build and I can run recent games smoothly @1080p60 with my TV. Just last night my PC getting weird though since all games that I played are suddenly limited to 40 fps when previously it's running smoothly at 60 fps (Witcher 3, Hitman 2016, and heck even Football Manager). Anybody knows what happened to my PC? Should I uninstall the VGA driver and reinstall it back? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
How hard is it to install a new CPU? I've never built my own PC, I have installed ram, gpu's, fans, etc.
I currently have an i5-6600k, 16gb ram, 980 (just bought a 1080, shipping today). I have been thinking of upgrading to the i7-7700k to be set for quite awhile. I thought I read the i7 can be put into the motherboards of the i5, but don't know for sure.
I didn't know if it was as simple as shutting off the pc, removing the heatsink, removing the i5, installing the i7 (and thermal paste) and that's about it or if its much more involved.
I currently have an i5-6600k, 16gb ram, 980 (just bought a 1080, shipping today). I have been thinking of upgrading to the i7-7700k to be set for quite awhile. I thought I read the i7 can be put into the motherboards of the i5, but don't know for sure.
I didn't know if it was as simple as shutting off the pc, removing the heatsink, removing the i5, installing the i7 (and thermal paste) and that's about it or if its much more involved.
Bloodember
Member
Yes, that's $100 less than newegg. But if you want a warranty, you can go with this Mushkin 1tb for $259.99 and you get a warranty.
What I mean by no warranty, many companies won't do warranty service if bought from somewhere that is not an authorized reseller.
What motherboard do you have? Is it a prebuilt?
JonnyDBrit
Member
On the same chipset, there's no nominal difference or difficulty in replacing an i5 with an i7. Indeed, with the same socket type it should still work - the 6600k and 7700k are both LGA 1151 - but there's a few things to double check.
1) If you're working with a 1XX series motherboard, which was meant to work with Skylake, you'll want the BIOS up to date in order for it to accept a Kabylake CPU like the i7-7700k.
2) Once you have the new CPU installed and it boots, find and delete your old CPU drivers. They shouldn't cause a problem anyway, but better safe than sorry.
3) When installing, remember to wipe off and replace any thermal paste from the previous install, particularly on your cooler.
Beyond that, just check videos showing how to do a regular install, and follow that process.
It was a pre-built from Digital Storm, so I'll have to look.
Thanks, I'll start looking into this stuff. I'm sure the i5-6600k will last me quite awhile, but I'm nervous about some of the huge upcoming games like Assassin's Creed, etc.
franklyshankly
Member
Where can you get a 1080 FE for 400? I still see them all closer to 500 as of now.
Bloodember
Member
I'm pretty sure Digital Storm uses off the shelf parts, so you should be ok with upgrading. In must cases you just need to upgrade your BIOS. Check what motherboard you have.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
I love my gigabyte windforce. mine is silent and fast
So I have this bad boy arriving tonight from Amazon.
Pretty pumped to try it out. I'm using an ASUS 1080p/144hz right now which is obviously great for Overwatch/CS/etc, but I'm really looking forward to seeing the 1440 + IPS difference for single player games.
I'm expecting pretty good results paired with an EVGA 1080 iCX (one of the newer models that had the faster memory clock out of the box). Clearly it's not going to hit 144fps in more intensive games, so I'm interested to see the difference that GSync makes. Been reading how to get the most out of it (cap at 141, etc).
Really considering the 1080Ti now...but damn if the prices aren't outrageous in Canada. I'll likely just wait for Volta and take advantage of EVGA's "step up" program for the GTX 2080 or whatever they plan to call it.
Pretty pumped to try it out. I'm using an ASUS 1080p/144hz right now which is obviously great for Overwatch/CS/etc, but I'm really looking forward to seeing the 1440 + IPS difference for single player games.
I'm expecting pretty good results paired with an EVGA 1080 iCX (one of the newer models that had the faster memory clock out of the box). Clearly it's not going to hit 144fps in more intensive games, so I'm interested to see the difference that GSync makes. Been reading how to get the most out of it (cap at 141, etc).
Really considering the 1080Ti now...but damn if the prices aren't outrageous in Canada. I'll likely just wait for Volta and take advantage of EVGA's "step up" program for the GTX 2080 or whatever they plan to call it.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
I just got the same monitor refurbished from acer, comes next week, can't wait!!
digitalrelic
Banned
So is Z270 just fucking terrible with RAM compatibility over 3200Mhz?
I've been having a hell of a time getting RAM to work on my new setup:
i7 7700k
Asus ROG Strix 270G Mobo
1080 Ti
I've now gone through four pairs of sticks:
2x 8GB 4000mhz G.Skill
2x 8GB 4000mhz G.Skill to replace first set
2x 8GB 3000mhz Corsair (from Best Buy, just so I can have some RAM in my system so I can actually use it. I plan on returning the RAM once I finally get some sticks that work)
2x 8GB 3733mhz Corsair
None of these have worked. I would think it's an issue with the mobo, but the issues have been SOO inconsistent.
For the 1st G.Skill pair of sticks, I had one stick that wouldn't POST at all, and one that would POST but wouldn't run at it's proper speeds w/ XMP. For the 2nd pair of G.Skill sticks, they would both POST just fine but neither would run at proper speeds w/XMP. With the Best Buy replacement pair of Corsair sticks, they both post and they both run proper speeds w/XMP. They're the only sticks that have worked thus far. With the latest Corsair sticks, they don't POST at all whatsoever. Just get a blank unresponsive screen.
So what the hell's the deal? This PC build should've been completed over a month ago and I still don't have it up and running due to these ridiculous RAM issues. I've got a pair for replacement 3733mhz Corsair sticks that are arriving Friday. If they don't work, I don't know what I'm going to do.
And yes, I've tried loosening timings and upping voltages with the sticks that would at least POST, but nothing I did got them anywhere near their advertised speeds.
I've been having a hell of a time getting RAM to work on my new setup:
i7 7700k
Asus ROG Strix 270G Mobo
1080 Ti
I've now gone through four pairs of sticks:
2x 8GB 4000mhz G.Skill
2x 8GB 4000mhz G.Skill to replace first set
2x 8GB 3000mhz Corsair (from Best Buy, just so I can have some RAM in my system so I can actually use it. I plan on returning the RAM once I finally get some sticks that work)
2x 8GB 3733mhz Corsair
None of these have worked. I would think it's an issue with the mobo, but the issues have been SOO inconsistent.
For the 1st G.Skill pair of sticks, I had one stick that wouldn't POST at all, and one that would POST but wouldn't run at it's proper speeds w/ XMP. For the 2nd pair of G.Skill sticks, they would both POST just fine but neither would run at proper speeds w/XMP. With the Best Buy replacement pair of Corsair sticks, they both post and they both run proper speeds w/XMP. They're the only sticks that have worked thus far. With the latest Corsair sticks, they don't POST at all whatsoever. Just get a blank unresponsive screen.
So what the hell's the deal? This PC build should've been completed over a month ago and I still don't have it up and running due to these ridiculous RAM issues. I've got a pair for replacement 3733mhz Corsair sticks that are arriving Friday. If they don't work, I don't know what I'm going to do.
And yes, I've tried loosening timings and upping voltages with the sticks that would at least POST, but nothing I did got them anywhere near their advertised speeds.
JohnnyFootball
GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I am currently looking to upgrade my memory and motherboard for my Ryzen CPU.
Is there a mobo-RAM combination that is guaranteed to reach at least 3200?
Not interested in any motherboard over $180.
Is there a mobo-RAM combination that is guaranteed to reach at least 3200?
Not interested in any motherboard over $180.
Zomba13
Member
So I've recently had a PSU related issue a month or two back but sorted that and then had issues with my GTX780. My computer just randomly crashed, often in games sometimes on desktop, but that appeared to stop when I put it in a different PCIe slot (during the PSU issues I had a weaker PSU and swapped in an older gfx card so I could still watch stuff online and play older games while waiting for the RMA of my PSU).
ANYWAY, issue now is my GTX 780 appears dead. It was fine last night, playing FFXIV until suddenly the screen went grey and stopped responding. I restarted and things seemed ok, I didn't go back into a game but did watch some stuff on youtube then went to sleep. Today I powered on my computer and it was all low resolution and gave me "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)" in device manager for the card. I restarted, did a full clean uninstall/install of the drivers etc but nope. Windows refuses to activate the card and if I disable then enable in device manager then I get the typical dead graphics card artifacts (here being blue specks/dots dancing on the screen).
I've got my old GTX285 in right now and it's fine, full resolution etc but obviously not really suited for what I want (I seem to be able to play FFXIV at low settings on dx9 but I also remember that game causing my computer to crash with this gfx card sometimes). I've been looking at graphics cards but not 100% sure on what to get or what I even want.
I was happy with the GTX780 (EVGA "Superclocked") but if I have to get a new one then I want it to be better but also don't want to spend too much but even then, I don't want to have to upgrade again soon after. I'm in the UK and basically just looking for recommendations. I game mostly on my 1680x1050 monitor (no plans to upgrade soon) or my 1080p TV (also no plans on upgrading) but I'd also like to be able to play modern games at around max settings. Budget wise, I really don't know. I've got some to spend but at the same time I feel like right now I don't really need a super high end card but a lot of the cards I'm looking at just seem to be going up in price and also not being in stock anywhere. I was hoping to play a bunch of OW with the summer event...
TL;DR: I need a new graphics card that will be better than an EVGA GTX 780 SC but don't need a super high end card (gaming will be mostly at 1080p max, my VR dreams are on hold for a while). While I am mostly gaming at 1080p, I would still like to be able to play most new releases on max/very high (minus stuff like AA). I'm in the UK so sites and prices I can buy from please. Thank you!
EDIT: looking back I paid £426.95 in October 2013 for my GTX780 and I think I'd be ok paying around that price for something that would last me as long as that card lasted for me (as in I was still running new games at acceptable settings and frames. PUBG was giving me mostly 60-50 with some settings on medium or low and some tweaks for instance).
ANYWAY, issue now is my GTX 780 appears dead. It was fine last night, playing FFXIV until suddenly the screen went grey and stopped responding. I restarted and things seemed ok, I didn't go back into a game but did watch some stuff on youtube then went to sleep. Today I powered on my computer and it was all low resolution and gave me "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)" in device manager for the card. I restarted, did a full clean uninstall/install of the drivers etc but nope. Windows refuses to activate the card and if I disable then enable in device manager then I get the typical dead graphics card artifacts (here being blue specks/dots dancing on the screen).
I've got my old GTX285 in right now and it's fine, full resolution etc but obviously not really suited for what I want (I seem to be able to play FFXIV at low settings on dx9 but I also remember that game causing my computer to crash with this gfx card sometimes). I've been looking at graphics cards but not 100% sure on what to get or what I even want.
I was happy with the GTX780 (EVGA "Superclocked") but if I have to get a new one then I want it to be better but also don't want to spend too much but even then, I don't want to have to upgrade again soon after. I'm in the UK and basically just looking for recommendations. I game mostly on my 1680x1050 monitor (no plans to upgrade soon) or my 1080p TV (also no plans on upgrading) but I'd also like to be able to play modern games at around max settings. Budget wise, I really don't know. I've got some to spend but at the same time I feel like right now I don't really need a super high end card but a lot of the cards I'm looking at just seem to be going up in price and also not being in stock anywhere. I was hoping to play a bunch of OW with the summer event...
TL;DR: I need a new graphics card that will be better than an EVGA GTX 780 SC but don't need a super high end card (gaming will be mostly at 1080p max, my VR dreams are on hold for a while). While I am mostly gaming at 1080p, I would still like to be able to play most new releases on max/very high (minus stuff like AA). I'm in the UK so sites and prices I can buy from please. Thank you!
EDIT: looking back I paid £426.95 in October 2013 for my GTX780 and I think I'd be ok paying around that price for something that would last me as long as that card lasted for me (as in I was still running new games at acceptable settings and frames. PUBG was giving me mostly 60-50 with some settings on medium or low and some tweaks for instance).
I would just use the ones that work. There's not a HUGE difference in those that you would notice would there be?
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Are those all on the QVL?
The simple answer is to only buy sticks on the QVL and rated for that speed.
If you are using sticks on the QVL and they're not working, even with BIOS update (if available), that's grounds to RMA the board.
RumblingRosco
Member
I was running Cinebench again recently just for fun, and noticed my OpenGL score for my 1080 Ti dropped from ~107 to ~60. To my knowledge, all I've changed between tests was adding a second monitor (1440p/144Hz) to my existing 1080p/60Hz monitor. Is it possible that having a second monitor is lowering my score? Like, is the rendering occuring at 1440p now perhaps? Cinebench opens in my 1440p monitor by default.
If that's not it, I can think of anything else that'd explain a drop in my score. Any thoughts?
If that's not it, I can think of anything else that'd explain a drop in my score. Any thoughts?
Servbot #42
Unconfirmed Member
Guys after careful consideration i think i'm gonna go with a gtx 1060, specifically this model since it was the cheapest double fan model i could find:
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SSC DT GAMING, 06G-P4-6265-KR
I haven't seen any reviews of this particular model but the specs seems the same as other non-oc EVGA GTX 1060 models. Does anyone knows what the "DT" stands for? I haven't found something definite just yet, just something related to silicon lottery.
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SSC DT GAMING, 06G-P4-6265-KR
I haven't seen any reviews of this particular model but the specs seems the same as other non-oc EVGA GTX 1060 models. Does anyone knows what the "DT" stands for? I haven't found something definite just yet, just something related to silicon lottery.
I've gone from not messing with the defaults....to trying to see what I can squeeze out of my Ryzen 1700. I'm using the stock cooler so I'm not going to try and push it too far.
So far I've pushed the CPU from 3.0 GHz -> 3.9 GHz (using 1.4V for the CPU...will play around with trying to lower this voltage and stay at 3.9 GHz)
I've also pushed my G.Skill Ripjaws V 2400 -> 2933 (using 1.28V for the memory...will also try and see how low I can get this voltage and stay stable. My memory is rated at 2400@1.2V)
Watched a Youtube video and some guy at AMD recommended pushing the SOC voltage to 1.1V. It seems to have made a difference in me being able to push my RAM up to 2933.
I opted on buying slower RAM because I wanted 64GB. I'm tired of being memory constrained (had 2GB in my previous desktop at home...and 8GB in my laptop I use for development at work). Being able to get more out of the 2400 DDR4 memory takes some of the buyer's remorse out of not having 3200 DDR4 (though I don't know if I had gone that route I would have been able to afford 64GB of it)
So far I've pushed the CPU from 3.0 GHz -> 3.9 GHz (using 1.4V for the CPU...will play around with trying to lower this voltage and stay at 3.9 GHz)
I've also pushed my G.Skill Ripjaws V 2400 -> 2933 (using 1.28V for the memory...will also try and see how low I can get this voltage and stay stable. My memory is rated at 2400@1.2V)
Watched a Youtube video and some guy at AMD recommended pushing the SOC voltage to 1.1V. It seems to have made a difference in me being able to push my RAM up to 2933.
I opted on buying slower RAM because I wanted 64GB. I'm tired of being memory constrained (had 2GB in my previous desktop at home...and 8GB in my laptop I use for development at work). Being able to get more out of the 2400 DDR4 memory takes some of the buyer's remorse out of not having 3200 DDR4 (though I don't know if I had gone that route I would have been able to afford 64GB of it)
Lil'DigiOp
Member
HELPPPP!!!
I DON'T HAVE A POST
Everything is connected, cpu fan is on with thermal paste. Gpu is running because fan is blowing. I have a zotac 1050ti so it's powered by the pcie
Motherboard has power... I'm connecting the gpu to a tv with hdmi
I just don't know what to do, first build
I DON'T HAVE A POST
Everything is connected, cpu fan is on with thermal paste. Gpu is running because fan is blowing. I have a zotac 1050ti so it's powered by the pcie
Motherboard has power... I'm connecting the gpu to a tv with hdmi
I just don't know what to do, first build
opticalmace
Member
ATX 8 pin and 24 pin cables connected? HDMI is plugged into the GPU, not the onboard video?
Lil'DigiOp
Member
Jesus I'm an idiot.....
I didn't do the AtX 8 pin. Thank you soooooo much. I was scared that I had bad components.
What was the 8 pin atx for? I thought since I had a pcie gpu, I didn't need it
opticalmace
Member
It's for the CPU. Glad you got it sorted.
iRAWRasaurus
Banned
Hey guys, I never had a mechanical keyboard and was looking into getting one. So due to my budget and from asking some friends, I have come to these two. Corsair STRAFE Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Red LED, Cherry MX Red and MechanicalEagle Z-88 with Blue Switches DIY. I am still open to any suggestions as long as its ~$100.
What do you guys think?
lower price would be better if possible 
Bloodember
Member
Hey guys, I never had a mechanical keyboard and was looking into getting one. So due to my budget and from asking some friends, I have come to these two. Corsair STRAFE Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Red LED, Cherry MX Red and MechanicalEagle Z-88 with Blue Switches DIY. I am still open to any suggestions as long as its ~$100.What do you guys think?lower price would be better if possible
Well, first you need to figure out what switch will best suit you. Those two keyboards use two different kinds of keys.
RandomExpletive
Member
Shipping out the 1080 to gigabyte tomorrow morning.
Hoping its just the vocal minority online complaining about their RMA process
Wow that was cheaper than I expected. 2day shipping w/ tracking and delivery confirmation & $500 insurance for 16 bucks
Hoping its just the vocal minority online complaining about their RMA process
Wow that was cheaper than I expected. 2day shipping w/ tracking and delivery confirmation & $500 insurance for 16 bucks
Zomba13
Member
So I've been looking, between a PALIT NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB DUAL Graphics Card at around £195 and a KFA2 GeForce GTX 1060 EX OC "White Edition" 6144MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card at around £250 (both including VAT and shipping).
Is it worth the extra for the 6GB? The core on the KFA2 one is also around 50MHz faster and apparently overclocks into the 1900s comfortably going by the reviews I found.
Is it worth the extra for the 6GB? The core on the KFA2 one is also around 50MHz faster and apparently overclocks into the 1900s comfortably going by the reviews I found.
ISee
Member
1.) Most games will work with just 3gb, but you will have to adjust (lower) texture settings for a stutter free experience (in many games). IMO it's worth getting the 6GB for better textures alone. They can make a huge difference.
2.)It's not just a difference in stock clock speed (btw both cards should be able to hit 1900 MHz, i'd even say 2000 MHz) The 3GB has only 1152 shader cores (vs 1280 on the 6GB variant).
The 3GB is a 4.37 tflops card at 1900 MHz and the 6GB a 4.86 tflops. Just a 7% difference, but worth pointing out.
iRAWRasaurus
Banned
Ah just realize that when you mention it. I dont think it matters that much? My only issue is if the the MX Blue (that is one of them right?) is too load or not. Just figure I will mention this as well, it will be used for my gaming and school PC. Perhaps I should mess around with some display keyboards at my local best buy.
Bob Coffee
Member
Guys after careful consideration i think i'm gonna go with a gtx 1060, specifically this model since it was the cheapest double fan model i could find:
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SSC DT GAMING, 06G-P4-6265-KR
I haven't seen any reviews of this particular model but the specs seems the same as other non-oc EVGA GTX 1060 models. Does anyone knows what the "DT" stands for? I haven't found something definite just yet, just something related to silicon lottery.
that's pretty similar to the 1060 i have. should be a pretty good card.
Bloodember
Member
The key matters a lot, if you don't like the actuation you won't like the keyboard. Try a few out and see what you like. Do some research on them as well.
XMP isn't garunteed to work.
4000mhz XMP is only going to work in 1% of cases.
You need to set these up manually, by tweaking VCCSA/IO. A lot of CPUs just won't run 4000mhz memory regardless of voltage.