Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Hmm might do
Was thinking of getting the 1080 and just selling it to fund the 11 series if I'm after one then
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Was thinking of getting the 1080 and just selling it to fund the 11 series if I'm after one then
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Yeah I mean it's all about what you're comfortable throwing money at. I upgrade GPUs typically every year to year and a half and that's what I do too - recoup some of the cost and put it towards the new card.
​Hey PCGAF,
I'm about to pull the trigger on the following build:
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - R1 Universal 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case Fan: Corsair - ML140 97.0 CFM 140mm Fans
Pc Part Picker says my estimated power draw will be 420W. I will be looking to overclock the CPU. Is a 650W PSU enough to power this build? Thanks.
I'm about to pull the trigger on the following build:
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - R1 Universal 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case Fan: Corsair - ML140 97.0 CFM 140mm Fans
Pc Part Picker says my estimated power draw will be 420W. I will be looking to overclock the CPU. Is a 650W PSU enough to power this build? Thanks.
Bloodember
Member
Yes
Flying Toaster
Member
Yeah you are fine power wise. I have the same exact video card I put in my build last Sunday. It is absolutely brilliant. Have fun with it.
RandomExpletive
Member
That's right I remember now, early VR threads everyone stressed how far we needed to push the screens refresh rate.
Went ahead and delidded my 7700K today to apply CLU. It's currently "curing" with the adhesive. Figure I'll leave it overnight in the Rock It kit.
I use a H115i water cooler which has a copper plate. I should be fine using CLU on it instead of standard TIM, correct? Or should I just use the regular stuff?
I use a H115i water cooler which has a copper plate. I should be fine using CLU on it instead of standard TIM, correct? Or should I just use the regular stuff?
Blak_Status
Member
Are you saying a 780 at medium-ish settings wouldn't be good enough for a gsync monitor?
XeroSauce
Member
Hey guys, about to pull the trigger but need opinions on the build and in particular the PSU.
The video card and storage are coming from an older build and the GTX 760 will be replaced later.
Thoughts on the PSU? I'm in Canada by the way.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($264.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($183.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: ADATA - XPG SX900 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.80 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($175.65 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.75 @ Vuugo)
Total: $913.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-10 18:40 EDT-0400
The video card and storage are coming from an older build and the GTX 760 will be replaced later.
Thoughts on the PSU? I'm in Canada by the way.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($264.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($183.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: ADATA - XPG SX900 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.80 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($175.65 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.75 @ Vuugo)
Total: $913.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-10 18:40 EDT-0400
So I think I'm having a problem getting the right RAM frequency out of my supposed to be 3200mhz kit.
I've tried fooling around in the bios, manually setting speeds and just now after going back to default a day or two ago, enabled XMP, and these are the results I'm getting:
Correct me if I'm reading this wrong, but I'm not getting the 3200, right?
Anything I can do or are my sticks just sorta fucked?
I've tried fooling around in the bios, manually setting speeds and just now after going back to default a day or two ago, enabled XMP, and these are the results I'm getting:
Correct me if I'm reading this wrong, but I'm not getting the 3200, right?
Anything I can do or are my sticks just sorta fucked?
not that I'm questioning you, because I'm clearly new to this, but could I then ask why everything says anything but 3200mhz?
opticalmace
Member
DDR is double data rate. In the top image, 1598.5MHz * 2 ~ 3200MHz.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Ok, since my G-SYNC monitor and TV are 1080p ATM I'm debating between 1070 and 1080. Which variant of the two is better?
1070: Asus Strix NVIDIA GTX1070 8GB GAMING GDDR5, Asus Turbo NVIDIA GTX1070 8GB GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070
1080: MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Aero 8Gb OC GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 SEA HAWK X 8Gb GDDR5 GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Armor 8Gb OC GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 GAMING X 8Gb GDDR5 VR-Ready Graphics Card
Thanks.
I have an oc'd i5-6600k @ 4.4hz too
1070: Asus Strix NVIDIA GTX1070 8GB GAMING GDDR5, Asus Turbo NVIDIA GTX1070 8GB GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070
1080: MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Aero 8Gb OC GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 SEA HAWK X 8Gb GDDR5 GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Armor 8Gb OC GDDR5, MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 GAMING X 8Gb GDDR5 VR-Ready Graphics Card
Thanks.
I have an oc'd i5-6600k @ 4.4hz too
DDR = Double Data Rate
CPU-Z shows you half the effective speed
Look at the XMP profiles in your second pic for example
XMP-3200 (what you enabled)
Frequency 1600MHz
A 1070 is more than enough for 1080p in general.
1080 if you really want to stick to 120/144/.. Hz as much as possible
I'd take the Gaming/X model between those you listed
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
120/144hz would be nice. Just £100-£150 more between the two as well 🤔
Yep, I'm running 3200MHz DDR4 and it's reported at 1599MHz. You're good FHIZ.
Thanks all. With that settled and finally getting my fans to stop revving up on every page load, I think I'm ready to stop worrying about this thing and just play games.
Starbuck2907
Member
I played some LawBreakers last night, and turned my PC off before going to bed. I booted my desktop today and went to run errands for an hour.
When I came back home, I moved my house to wake the computer up and log into Steam,and I smelled something burning. I looked through the clear wall on my pc tower, and my secondary hard drive, where I store all my games, was ON FIRE. It was burning where the power cable meets the hard drive.
I was VERY lucky to catch this while I was at home. It could have burnt the house down! My fire alarm did go off after I saw the fire, so at least I know my alarm is working.
This guy seems to have had similar trouble.. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/h5geb/my_hard_drive_just_caught_fire_why_did_this/
Needless to say, the secondary drive is unusuable. The computer will no longer recognize my main drive either. So, I hooked it up to an external hard drive enclosure and let my laptop do a scandisk and repair on it. ....basically, almost all the sectors on my main drive are bad... It seems like the fire burnt out both my hard drives.
I don't know what else is worth trying to salvage in my machine. My best guess is that my 750 watt Thermaltake Gold modular power supply went bad and fried my hard drives. Or maybe the Hitachi secondary hard drive went bad and started the fire at the power connection.(?)
My entire machine was built in 2011,when the 2500k was new. The hard drive that started burning was a Hitachi. The power cable that was attached to that drive also powered the main hard drive. Other than were the cable was connected to the hard drive,
the rest of the cable "appears" ok. Part of plug melted onto the secondary hard drive...
So,I have a few questions. Should I try to salvage the 2500k, motherboard, or ram? The computer still seems to boot, but doesn't see the hd(like I said, I later took the drive out and it was fried.) I'm assuming everything else still works...but can I trust the power supply now? ....not sure.
I have a spare solid state hard drive with Windows 10 installed that I could plug back in to test my pc...see if it still works with a good hard drive. Your thoughts? ...I don't want to risk messing that drive up too.
And...I'm guessing this is a sign that I should buy a new pc. I'm coming from an i5-2500k, 8 gigs of ram, and a 2gb Radeon 270X DD.
Assuming I want to spend $800, what is the best system I can build? Build recommendations anyone?
I do more regular "work" than gaming on it. I would "like" to be able to run The Witcher 3 at 60pfs in 1080p, but it's not a "must have". I don't build pc's often, so I mainly want something that will be fast and last a long time.
I want good games perofrmance, but in the long run, I think I would rather have a great processor that will last a long time than a top of the line video card.
Is 16gigs of ram worth it?... I've been getting by fine with 8. Should I try to use my laptop for now and wait for a new hardware release?
Any help is appreciated.
When I came back home, I moved my house to wake the computer up and log into Steam,and I smelled something burning. I looked through the clear wall on my pc tower, and my secondary hard drive, where I store all my games, was ON FIRE. It was burning where the power cable meets the hard drive.
I was VERY lucky to catch this while I was at home. It could have burnt the house down! My fire alarm did go off after I saw the fire, so at least I know my alarm is working.
This guy seems to have had similar trouble.. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/h5geb/my_hard_drive_just_caught_fire_why_did_this/
Needless to say, the secondary drive is unusuable. The computer will no longer recognize my main drive either. So, I hooked it up to an external hard drive enclosure and let my laptop do a scandisk and repair on it. ....basically, almost all the sectors on my main drive are bad... It seems like the fire burnt out both my hard drives.
I don't know what else is worth trying to salvage in my machine. My best guess is that my 750 watt Thermaltake Gold modular power supply went bad and fried my hard drives. Or maybe the Hitachi secondary hard drive went bad and started the fire at the power connection.(?)
My entire machine was built in 2011,when the 2500k was new. The hard drive that started burning was a Hitachi. The power cable that was attached to that drive also powered the main hard drive. Other than were the cable was connected to the hard drive,
the rest of the cable "appears" ok. Part of plug melted onto the secondary hard drive...
So,I have a few questions. Should I try to salvage the 2500k, motherboard, or ram? The computer still seems to boot, but doesn't see the hd(like I said, I later took the drive out and it was fried.) I'm assuming everything else still works...but can I trust the power supply now? ....not sure.
I have a spare solid state hard drive with Windows 10 installed that I could plug back in to test my pc...see if it still works with a good hard drive. Your thoughts? ...I don't want to risk messing that drive up too.
And...I'm guessing this is a sign that I should buy a new pc. I'm coming from an i5-2500k, 8 gigs of ram, and a 2gb Radeon 270X DD.
Assuming I want to spend $800, what is the best system I can build? Build recommendations anyone?
I do more regular "work" than gaming on it. I would "like" to be able to run The Witcher 3 at 60pfs in 1080p, but it's not a "must have". I don't build pc's often, so I mainly want something that will be fast and last a long time.
I want good games perofrmance, but in the long run, I think I would rather have a great processor that will last a long time than a top of the line video card.
Is 16gigs of ram worth it?... I've been getting by fine with 8. Should I try to use my laptop for now and wait for a new hardware release?
Any help is appreciated.
Quick question, hoping someone in here will be able to answer this for me. I'm looking to build my first gaming PC, HOWEVER I have shitty internet, therefore I need to know if the physical releases of PC games come with a full game install. Not partial install but a full game install, I'm not including patches or activation with that.
Based on the responses I get to this question, I can determine if I need an optical drive.
Based on the responses I get to this question, I can determine if I need an optical drive.
Depends on the publisher. I haven't bought a physical PC game in a while, but iirc, shit like COD I believe, and ME:A have a redemption code inside the box.
You'd really have to google around to see games you're interested in, if they actually come with a physical disc.
Part of it is because of game sizes and they don't want to invest in multiple DVDs; and it's not like they'll bother putting them on bluray discs because how many people really have BD drives for PC.
Yeah, it definitely depends. Destiny 2's PC cover says at the bottom: "PC Download Only, No Disc Included". The past two physical PC games I bought, Call of Duty Advanced Warfare and Battlefield 4, both came with a boatload of DVD's, and also the redemption key. So it's something you'd have to read up on to find out if the games you're interested in come with discs or not!
opticalmace
Member
I once had a molex adapter catch fire. Were you using an adapter or just straight from the PSU?
If straight from the PSU I would replace it. Probably just a defect on that one cable but I wouldn't wanna risk it. Maybe post a pic?
Honestly the best bang for your buck is keeping your 2500k (overclock it) and just buy a new GPU and PSU. And then later on replace the CPU.
Does anyone know if achieving 16GB RAM through 2x 4GB sticks and 1 8GB stick would work? I was looking to just buy another set as the one I had (2x4GB Kingston Fury HyperX), but once I opened up my PC I found that my cooler blocks one of RAM slots... with how expensive RAM has become, I rather not buy 2x8 GB sticks or 1 16GB stick.
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
sorry if this is a stupid question but this is a new situation for me:
i have a 100 series (1151) motherboard and a Cryorig R1 cpu cooler. If I were to upgrade to an 8700K (from a 6700K) and buy a 300 series (1151) motherboard would I still be able to use my CPU cooler?
is the socket number 1151 what you go by when picking the right cooler for your motherboard? I'm considering upgrading to a 8700K and just not sure if it would mean having to buy a new cooler in addition to CPU + motherboard.
Thanks!
i have a 100 series (1151) motherboard and a Cryorig R1 cpu cooler. If I were to upgrade to an 8700K (from a 6700K) and buy a 300 series (1151) motherboard would I still be able to use my CPU cooler?
is the socket number 1151 what you go by when picking the right cooler for your motherboard? I'm considering upgrading to a 8700K and just not sure if it would mean having to buy a new cooler in addition to CPU + motherboard.
Thanks!
It will work but in single channel mode which can slightly affect performance in certain situations. You'll need to have in mind that the new stick needs to be similarly specced in terms of latency and speed otherwise they might not work at all or you'll need to set them to the same frequency/latency manually.
sorry if this is a stupid question but this is a new situation for me:
i have a 100 series (1151) motherboard and a Cryorig R1 cpu cooler. If I were to upgrade to an 8700K (from a 6700K) and buy a 300 series (1151) motherboard would I still be able to use my CPU cooler?
is the socket number 1151 what you go by when picking the right cooler for your motherboard? I'm considering upgrading to a 8700K and just not sure if it would mean having to buy a new cooler in addition to CPU + motherboard.
Thanks!
The mounts will be the same since the socket is the same. You might not need to buy a new motherboard if you don't need new chipset features Z370 will bring, since it's very possible 8700K will be compatible with Z170 motherboards.
Frankfurter
Member
The ASRock tweet has since been deleted. We can only speculate why, but it's very possible Intel hasn't provided up to date information to them.
The 6700k, 7700k and 8700k are identical in terms of LGA (from left to right)
So the only reason for incompatibility is that either they shifted the function of some pins around or they will lock out the firmware intentionally. Both dick moves, which I don't think they can afford now that AMD is competitive.
The 6700k, 7700k and 8700k are identical in terms of LGA (from left to right)
So the only reason for incompatibility is that either they shifted the function of some pins around or they will lock out the firmware intentionally. Both dick moves, which I don't think they can afford now that AMD is competitive.
Has anyone used a less powerful Graphics Card as a Physx card?
I have an ASUS GTX 1070 Strix but might be given a used ASUS 1050 (2GB that doesn't use external power). I don't have a 2nd PC so would there be much use in putting it in my PC and using it as a dedicated Physx card?
Would it create a bottleneck and hold my PC back?
I saw this video but it's about a year old. Is there any point in adding an extra card (played Batman when it came out and not planning on replaying it anytime soon)?
I wish they had allowed them to work. Upgrading from my 6700K to 8700K might have seemed worthwhile and affordable if it meant I got more cores/threads without having to buy a new motherboard to go with it.
I have an ASUS GTX 1070 Strix but might be given a used ASUS 1050 (2GB that doesn't use external power). I don't have a 2nd PC so would there be much use in putting it in my PC and using it as a dedicated Physx card?
Would it create a bottleneck and hold my PC back?
I saw this video but it's about a year old. Is there any point in adding an extra card (played Batman when it came out and not planning on replaying it anytime soon)?
I wish they had allowed them to work. Upgrading from my 6700K to 8700K might have seemed worthwhile and affordable if it meant I got more cores/threads without having to buy a new motherboard to go with it.
A lot of them just come with game codes or partial. PC gaming right now is iffy if you have a weak connection.
Unfortunately the sole source of the v2 rumor was Chinese forum -> WCCFTech haha
It's still possible Intel switched the pins around to work with the 6 cores, we'll find out soon I can't wait!
Frankfurter
Member
The ASRock tweet has since been deleted. We can only speculate why, but it's very possible Intel hasn't provided up to date information to them.
The 6700k, 7700k and 8700k are identical in terms of LGA (from left to right)
So the only reason for incompatibility is that either they shifted the function of some pins around or they will lock out the firmware intentionally. Both dick moves, which I don't think they can afford now that AMD is competitive.
I'm not entirely sure if accurate/true, but I've read on multiple occassions that the socket is actually somewhat different ("socket 1151v2"), which would make every current mainboard incompatible. It's only 10 days or so anyway for the official presentation, so we should know more then.
Edit: WCCFTech... crap, should've researched that information a little better :/
Agreed, but Acer and ASUS both offer very good 144hz monitors for about $200-250 in the US if I'm not mistaken. The ASUS VGQE in particular is fantastic.
A 180hz G Sync monitor will probably be equal in cost to a good GPU. So if you're thinking either or, for a bit more it's a "why not both?" with one of those monitors.
(I just got the Acer Predator 1440p/165hz G Sync monitor and it cost a bit more than my GTX 1080...totally worth it though!)
My motherboard is a gigabyte-ga-z170-hd3p btw, don't know if that helps
Also I got my 1080 in, have never had issues removing a GPU, but good god the little clips that lock in cards to the motherboard would NOT unlock to remove my 980. I got it out finally but I was afraid I was going to break something lol
1080 is a beast btw
RumblingRosco
Member
Ordered a CPU AIO cooler from Newegg middle of last week, and it has crossed the border of 8 different states and been to 10 different cities so far. Expected delivery was yesterday, but it's now re-adjusted to being delivered this coming Monday. It's not urgent or anything to complain about, I'm just amused by the weird-ass travel route it took. It'll still go to at least one or two more cities before it's in my hands it seems.
As a double slap in the face, the stupid thing now is on sale on Newegg for a $20 rebate offer, so I also lost out on that in the past 10 days of waiting for it. Boo!
As a double slap in the face, the stupid thing now is on sale on Newegg for a $20 rebate offer, so I also lost out on that in the past 10 days of waiting for it. Boo!
-Stranger-
Junior Member
Hey guys.
So i would like to return to PC gaming.
Haven't played a game on PC since Half Life 2.
I still love my consoles as well...
However there are certain games i want to try on PC
Stanley Parable
Kentucky Route Zero
Night in the Woods
IOrigin
The Long Dark
Hello Neighbour
Obduction
To the Moon
Etc.
So i was thinking of spending $700-800 AUD
So in USD $550-650
So i was wondering what graphics card, cpu, ram, case, etc?
I did notice they sell desktop gaming pcs made up on ebay...
So i would like to return to PC gaming.
Haven't played a game on PC since Half Life 2.
I still love my consoles as well...
However there are certain games i want to try on PC
Stanley Parable
Kentucky Route Zero
Night in the Woods
IOrigin
The Long Dark
Hello Neighbour
Obduction
To the Moon
Etc.
So i was thinking of spending $700-800 AUD
So in USD $550-650
So i was wondering what graphics card, cpu, ram, case, etc?
I did notice they sell desktop gaming pcs made up on ebay...
The Broken Ska Record
Member
How quiet are the NZXT RGB fans? I'm thinking of adding a few fans to my case since I really don't have any. Or are they more form over function?
I'd email newegg and let them know about it, they might credit you.
Jezbollah
Member
Agreed - if you have proof of this (maybe a screenshot) they should give you credit.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Phatosaurus
Member
I don't know about the 1080 varient, but the 1080Ti with that same cooler thermal throttles at stock due to the insufficient cooling.
RumblingRosco
Member
I don't know why, but I always here the Armor-edition of cards are generally the bottom tier. The cooler apparently isn't very good.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Your motherboard doesn't support DDR4-3000 as far as I can tell. Take the RAM down to 2666 and save some money then use it to get a Gold-rated PSU. Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic are all good brands.
My suggestion for ~780AUD https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/dfmPr7
You didn't specify if you need peripherals also (monitor, keyboard etc.)?
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
seems like today is the day to buy ram in newegg. So I was wondering if there would be any cons of buying two separate sets of 16GB opposed to a single set of 32GB if the later is more expensive?
Bloodember
Member
My motherboard is a gigabyte-ga-z170-hd3p btw, don't know if that helps
Also I got my 1080 in, have never had issues removing a GPU, but good god the little clips that lock in cards to the motherboard would NOT unlock to remove my 980. I got it out finally but I was afraid I was going to break something lol
1080 is a beast btw
That motherboard will support Kaby Lake, you just need to update the bios.