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NeoGaf OLED owners thread

I'm in the same boat. Do I get a 55' C1 with an extended warranty thus pushing me beyond what I want to pay? Or play panel lottery with a 55' QN90A? Hmmm ...

I can give you some info on the QN90A as it relates to HDMI. An AV YouTube guy that goes by Stop The FOMO, did a video on this. Basically, all the HDMI ports are capable of 4K/120/VRR/HDR. The only difference is the official 2.1 port is capable of 10-bit HDR at 120, while the other three can only do 8-bit HDR at 120. As long as your not playing at 120, than the other three ports can do 10 bit HDR.
Manufacturers are allowed to play a little bit fast and loose with 2.1 features.
Really?! That's awesome if true I will look into that. I would prefer 4k60 over 120 anyways! Ps5 could be hooked to the gaming port and my other stuff won't need the full bandwidth.
 

MadPanda

Banned
I'm in the same boat. Do I get a 55' C1 with an extended warranty thus pushing me beyond what I want to pay? Or play panel lottery with a 55' QN90A? Hmmm ...

I can give you some info on the QN90A as it relates to HDMI. An AV YouTube guy that goes by Stop The FOMO, did a video on this. Basically, all the HDMI ports are capable of 4K/120/VRR/HDR. The only difference is the official 2.1 port is capable of 10-bit HDR at 120, while the other three can only do 8-bit HDR at 120. As long as your not playing at 120, than the other three ports can do 10 bit HDR.
Manufacturers are allowed to play a little bit fast and loose with 2.1 features.

Hdr at 8bits? That's not true hdr, if you care for that.
 
Hdr at 8bits? That's not true hdr, if you care for that.
From what was shown in FOMO's video, the difference was more banding in 8-bit versus 10. To be fair it was something he had to look for in his Dirt 5 comparison. Although it may be more noticeable with different games. He was using a QN90A.
 
Really?! That's awesome if true I will look into that. I would prefer 4k60 over 120 anyways! Ps5 could be hooked to the gaming port and my other stuff won't need the full bandwidth.
Glad to be of help. Going crazy here comparing C1 and QN90A. Saw them both at Best Buy yesterday and still can't decide.
 
Qned sounds like the holy grail.
----
Finally getting geek squad to come out and look at my A8h with its dark streaks going down it... Sony denied me so they'll never get a dime through me directly at least maybe through a BB warranty or something lol. But I can't get the A90J since it's too expensive vs. my A8h.

Now i'm debating whether or not to get either the C1 oled and try my luck with oled again or get the samsung qn90A... :pie_thinking: Samsung has 1 hdmi 2.1 port which sucks and i'm worried about DSE and uniformity, but the oled is an oled so it's made of paper mache and has input lag with BFI engaged and much dimmer. No perfect tv atm!

Vincent says the Onkyo TX-RZ50 HDMI 2.1 works. That could be a future solution for the ports.

Apparently, he also said the C1 and G1 got a firmware update for 4K 120Hz DV.
 
Glad to be of help. Going crazy here comparing C1 and QN90A. Saw them both at Best Buy yesterday and still can't decide
Yeah it's hard. Perfect blacks or durability (hopefully lol) plus brightness.

My only question is that 4k60HDR on the 3 ports of QN90A at 4:4:4 chroma or with subsampling still? Should be 4:4:4 if it's capable of 120hz right?
 

Ulysses 31

Member
Yeah it's hard. Perfect blacks or durability (hopefully lol) plus brightness.

My only question is that 4k60HDR on the 3 ports of QN90A at 4:4:4 chroma or with subsampling still? Should be 4:4:4 if it's capable of 120hz right?
Only the HDMI 2.1 can do 4K 4:4:4 rest are 422 at 4K.
 
Yeah it's hard. Perfect blacks or durability (hopefully lol) plus brightness.

My only question is that 4k60HDR on the 3 ports of QN90A at 4:4:4 chroma or with subsampling still? Should be 4:4:4 if it's capable of 120hz right?
Found the video so maybe this will help? I'm not sure if he mentions it in this video but it's still useful.
 

Inviusx

Member
Yeah it's hard. Perfect blacks or durability (hopefully lol) plus brightness.

My only question is that 4k60HDR on the 3 ports of QN90A at 4:4:4 chroma or with subsampling still? Should be 4:4:4 if it's capable of 120hz right?

Don't get to caught up in the 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 debacle. There literally no difference when it comes to gaming.
 
Don't get to caught up in the 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 debacle. There literally no difference when it comes to gaming.
That's not true. In fact there's such a big difference I set my ps4 pro to output 1080p so I can keep 4:4:4 and let the tv upscale for hdr. 4:2:2 is gross.

HDMI 2.0 can do 4K 120 at 4:2:0 8 bit.
Yes but apparently the samsung can do 4k60 10 bit as Dave_at_Home Dave_at_Home posted. So there's a difference in these ports. Also, my A8h does no support 4k120hz even at reduced chroma despite being 2.0.
 

Inviusx

Member
That's not true. In fact there's such a big difference I set my ps4 pro to output 1080p so I can keep 4:4:4 and let the tv upscale for hdr. 4:2:2 is gross.


Yes but apparently the samsung can do 4k60 10 bit as Dave_at_Home Dave_at_Home posted. So there's a difference in these ports. Also, my A8h does no support 4k120hz even at reduced chroma despite being 2.0.

Here you are my friend:

 

MadPanda

Banned
Glad to be of help. Going crazy here comparing C1 and QN90A. Saw them both at Best Buy yesterday and still can't decide.

StateofMajora StateofMajora
Be aware that Samsung has suffered from DSE a lot, blooming, gimped picture quality in game mode to achieve that input lag and no Dolby Vision (which is getting implemented in games too). I bought a TV for gaming primarily, could choose whatever I wanted and went with an LG CX as that was simply at the time the best gaming TV.

I don't consider QN90A a bad TV but I think it simply isn't worth it.

Whatever you choose I wish you good luck and happy gaming times.
 
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StateofMajora StateofMajora
Be aware that Samsung has suffered from DSE a lot, blooming, gimped picture quality in game mode to achieve that input lag and no Dolby Vision (which is getting implemented in games too). I bought a TV for gaming primarily, could choose whatever I wanted and went with an LG CX as that was simply at the time the best gaming TV.

I don't consider QN90A a bad TV but I think it simply isn't worth it.

Whatever you choose I wish you good luck and happy gaming times.
It's a shame that Samsung doesn't reject DSE from its OEM suppliers the same way Sony does. The thing that holding me back is burn-in and price. 55' is what I need and there's no way I'm putting down cash on an OLED without an extended warranty. Problem is, that will push the price up to 2K for a 55' C1. Hard pill to swallow.

On the other hand you have Samsung. Game mode forces the picture into blue spectrum really hard. It's overly bright and neon for the sake of it. I just want it to track to developers intent. Hope Xbox at least supports HDR10+ in the future to force their televisions to track properly. Then you have issues like DSE. Others like the local dimming being gimped are real, but I give Samsung credit for not sacrificing it too much. They have pushed out updates with previous models to improve that problem. It would be less expensive, and at least I don't have to worry about burn-in, and do better with a bright room and my window that faces the TV. Colors can pop too thanks to panel brightness and quantum dot.

Overall, I'm at a standstill. I just can't make up my mind.
 

Excess

Member
I can notice the increased sharpness in 444. Why do you even want 4K if half of the colors are wrong lmao.
It all has to do with negligible trade-offs. I mentioned this in another thread, but the human eye can perceive greater differences in light as opposed to color, which is why chroma, and not luma, subsampling is used as a technique. So if you're lowering your resolution simply to get 4:4:4 for a perceived difference in color volume, it's actually counterintuitive to the techniques established by the consortium of organizations involved in standards of fidelity.

That's not to say 4:4:4 is not the ultimate target, but that 4K/60 HDR10 in 4:2:0 or 4:2:2 is the preferable trade-off with HDMI 2.0. Also, the only time you'd make the opposing trade-off is with a PC monitor, where you sit closely enough to it that text may appear fuzzy.
 
StateofMajora StateofMajora
Be aware that Samsung has suffered from DSE a lot, blooming, gimped picture quality in game mode to achieve that input lag and no Dolby Vision (which is getting implemented in games too). I bought a TV for gaming primarily, could choose whatever I wanted and went with an LG CX as that was simply at the time the best gaming TV.

I don't consider QN90A a bad TV but I think it simply isn't worth it.

Whatever you choose I wish you good luck and happy gaming times.
Thank you. I've decided to go with the C1 oled. I think Sony's anti burn in measures are not as aggressive as LG's, and I think I just got bad luck with my A8H. The C1 will be an upgrade in terms of lag, having 4 2.1 ports, and according to Vincent on HDTV test the interpolation on the C1 is a big improvement over the CX, even beating Sony's prior efforts.

About the only downgrade will be the out of the box color perhaps, which I can calibrate so it's not a big deal. And upscaling, but hopefully it's not too big a difference.

Yeah, what you said about the Samsung, plus i've read the picture settings are even buggy and don't work sometimes. Not supporting that. Plus they're really scummy with their firmware updates.

A proper Sony mini led with QC and 2.1 might have been what I had chosen if they had one, but their LCD's are still stuck on 32 dimming zones, so yeah not having that lol.
 
It all has to do with negligible trade-offs. I mentioned this in another thread, but the human eye can perceive greater differences in light as opposed to color, which is why chroma, and not luma, subsampling is used as a technique. So if you're lowering your resolution simply to get 4:4:4 for a perceived difference in color volume, it's actually counterintuitive to the techniques established by the consortium of organizations involved in standards of fidelity.

That's not to say 4:4:4 is not the ultimate target, but that 4K/60 HDR10 in 4:2:0 or 4:2:2 is the preferable trade-off with HDMI 2.0. Also, the only time you'd make the opposing trade-off is with a PC monitor, where you sit closely enough to it that text may appear fuzzy.
But with proper downscaling, 4:4:4 at 1080p it will look superior to 4k 4:2:2.
 

rofif

Can’t Git Gud
new game optimizer menu coming to some LG OLED

I don't care how it looks.
Most of options there aren't too usefull.
I just hope they will fix the c1/g1 switching audio mode to game optimizer.
It is extremely annoying. If it detects gsync pc or console with alm, it will switch audio preset to game optimizer... which fucking sucks. I use Cinema preset which sounds 10x better and not tinny.
This results in me having to switch audio mode each time I enable my pc
 

Whitecrow

Banned
It all has to do with negligible trade-offs. I mentioned this in another thread, but the human eye can perceive greater differences in light as opposed to color, which is why chroma, and not luma, subsampling is used as a technique. So if you're lowering your resolution simply to get 4:4:4 for a perceived difference in color volume, it's actually counterintuitive to the techniques established by the consortium of organizations involved in standards of fidelity.

That's not to say 4:4:4 is not the ultimate target, but that 4K/60 HDR10 in 4:2:0 or 4:2:2 is the preferable trade-off with HDMI 2.0. Also, the only time you'd make the opposing trade-off is with a PC monitor, where you sit closely enough to it that text may appear fuzzy.
Seems like I may not be even half as informed as you so I cant say anything to this.

Only that since I sit close to the TV i can perceive the difference so I play on PC mode.

I guess that from a certain distance it starts to be more negligible.

And I'm not the one lowering the resolution btw, since im talking about sharpness, lowering the resolution is indeed counterintuitive.
 
Seems like I may not be even half as informed as you so I cant say anything to this.

Only that since I sit close to the TV i can perceive the difference so I play on PC mode.

I guess that from a certain distance it starts to be more negligible.

And I'm not the one lowering the resolution btw, since im talking about sharpness, lowering the resolution is indeed counterintuitive.
It's a big difference. All this talk of how it's not is just fud and or sour grapes.
 
Thank you. I've decided to go with the C1 oled. I think Sony's anti burn in measures are not as aggressive as LG's, and I think I just got bad luck with my A8H. The C1 will be an upgrade in terms of lag, having 4 2.1 ports, and according to Vincent on HDTV test the interpolation on the C1 is a big improvement over the CX, even beating Sony's prior efforts.

About the only downgrade will be the out of the box color perhaps, which I can calibrate so it's not a big deal. And upscaling, but hopefully it's not too big a difference.

Yeah, what you said about the Samsung, plus i've read the picture settings are even buggy and don't work sometimes. Not supporting that. Plus they're really scummy with their firmware updates.

A proper Sony mini led with QC and 2.1 might have been what I had chosen if they had one, but their LCD's are still stuck on 32 dimming zones, so yeah not having that lol.
Nice choice, dude. The price of an OLED with the five year warranty is just too steep for me. With the gift card I have, the price of a 55' QN90A is $1,493 out the door. Thinking about pulling the trigger. May slap on a standard two year Best Buy warranty but I'm not sure if it's worth it.
 
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wvnative

Member
I dunno what to do my E7 is getting bad burn in and I think I'd rather just get a new TV than fool with customer support and figuring out what exactly their gonna charge and scheduling a repair plus I want new features like HDMI 2.1 and HGIG.

My issue is that I am so tired of stressing over burn in, I almost wanna go back to LCD. But like, the QLEDs which I think are as good as you can get outside OLED, they seem to have bad blooming which I think will drive me mad, plus only one 2.1 port, plus no Dolby Vision which yeah I don't use much but I hear in the next couple years Xbox and Playstation will implement it for games, I'd like to have the option anyway...

Went to best buy the other day to browse, nothing competed even remotely to the C1s/G1s
 
Nice choice, dude. The price of an OLED with the five year warranty is just too steep for me. With the gift card I have, the price of a 55' QN90A is $1,493 out the door. Thinking about pulling the trigger. May slap on a standard two year Best Buy warranty but I'm not sure if it's worth it.
Well for me the c1 is either going to be 30 bucks after exchanging and putting a new 5 year on it or I get 110 bucks back for just a 2 year lol.

Im even contemplating moving the x900e downstairs and sit on my BB credit and wait for holiday deals 🧐

If you do get the Samsung be sure to post how it goes dood. Hope it turns out good.
 
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I dunno what to do my E7 is getting bad burn in and I think I'd rather just get a new TV than fool with customer support and figuring out what exactly their gonna charge and scheduling a repair plus I want new features like HDMI 2.1 and HGIG.

My issue is that I am so tired of stressing over burn in, I almost wanna go back to LCD. But like, the QLEDs which I think are as good as you can get outside OLED, they seem to have bad blooming which I think will drive me mad, plus only one 2.1 port, plus no Dolby Vision which yeah I don't use much but I hear in the next couple years Xbox and Playstation will implement it for games, I'd like to have the option anyway...

Went to best buy the other day to browse, nothing competed even remotely to the C1s/G1s

I just got the burn in coverage with my new OLED and don’t even worry any more. Somehow, I lucked into a few different price reductions and essentially got the burn in coverage for free.
 

LOLCats

Banned
Does the new firmware on a CX, or even the latest, do anything useful? Ive not bothered updating
I think a lot app compat updates are in the fw. Rarely anything useful imo.

i turn off wifi on my c9 because there is a fw update monthly it seems. You can disable automatic updating but you can't disable the automatic alert that a firmware version is available... at least on the C9 and you can't.
 
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Well for me the c1 is either going to be 30 bucks after exchanging and putting a new 5 year on it or I get 110 bucks back for just a 2 year lol.

Im even contemplating moving the x900e downstairs and sit on my BB credit and wait for holiday deals 🧐

If you do get the Samsung be sure to post how it goes dood. Hope it turns out good.
Never mind, another price drop on C1! Now I can get about 100 back with the 5 year warranty :messenger_sunglasses:

Can't wait.
I just got the burn in coverage with my new OLED and don’t even worry any more. Somehow, I lucked into a few different price reductions and essentially got the burn in coverage for free.
Man I hope it lasts the whole time, it should because it has a heatsink but time will tell. Really wish LG offered one with a heatsink this year... but at least LG has more aggressive dimming for logos and such to help mitigate burn in. If I could do a direct swap for the A90J I would, but can't give Sony any more money for a while lol.
 

DiscoDave

Member
Got a 65inch cx coming tommorow, coming from a 55inch b9. I tried a x950h before it I orderd the cx, 950h has gone back, and it was a great tv and good screen uniformity hardly any DSE like Samsung I have tried before. Honestly oled is better but if I had to go for an LCD I'd go for the new sony 950j is it? over Samsung as the DSE on them is shit. Obviously you could get a good one but would be surprised. Playing games like call of duty and having a light/snow level and then you see DSE and can't unsee it as its usually right in the centre. Anyway just my thoughts on what I've seen if it helps anyway who really don't want oled.
 
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OmegaSupreme

advanced basic bitch
The cinematic movement setting on the c1 is pretty damn good. I hate stutter and soe but that setting is a great compromise. Smoothes out motion with no artifacts that I can see and very little soe.
 
Well for me the c1 is either going to be 30 bucks after exchanging and putting a new 5 year on it or I get 110 bucks back for just a 2 year lol.

Im even contemplating moving the x900e downstairs and sit on my BB credit and wait for holiday deals 🧐

If you do get the Samsung be sure to post how it goes dood. Hope it turns out good.
I have the QN90A coming in today. I figure the only way to find out between the two is starting off with the least expensive of my choices. Hopefully the panel has minimal DSE. Before I even plug in my Series X, I'm going to check for that. Despite that I do feel pretty confidant overall in my choice. My living room has tons of sunlight with the TV facing one of my windows. If I end up with a solid panel, I'll post about my experience with the set and maybe that will help some people if they're thinking of getting one too.
 

OmegaSupreme

advanced basic bitch
I believe one of the benefits of pc mode is color accuracy is it not? In pc mode, you can use the accurate presets with a minimal increase in lag.
 
I have the QN90A coming in today. I figure the only way to find out between the two is starting off with the least expensive of my choices. Hopefully the panel has minimal DSE. Before I even plug in my Series X, I'm going to check for that. Despite that I do feel pretty confidant overall in my choice. My living room has tons of sunlight with the TV facing one of my windows. If I end up with a solid panel, I'll post about my experience with the set and maybe that will help some people if they're thinking of getting one too.
Funny thing mate, I said I was getting c1 but Best Buy sold me the qn90a for 1500 plus a $200 gift card so I couldn’t refuse lol. Said I could get it and they’d reimburse the difference when they pick up the A8h.

Man I just want peace of mind and oled doesn’t give me that. Hope we get good panels!
 

MadPanda

Banned
I have the QN90A coming in today. I figure the only way to find out between the two is starting off with the least expensive of my choices. Hopefully the panel has minimal DSE. Before I even plug in my Series X, I'm going to check for that. Despite that I do feel pretty confidant overall in my choice. My living room has tons of sunlight with the TV facing one of my windows. If I end up with a solid panel, I'll post about my experience with the set and maybe that will help some people if they're thinking of getting one too.

Good luck with your TV, it's an amazing product and I hope you'll will the panel lottery.
 
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