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Official "I need a new PC!!" 2009 Edition

Firestorm

Member
MisterAnderson said:
So I had a question that I felt didn't deserve it's own thread, thought I'd ask here. I have been using the Windows 7 RC since I built my computer over the summer, and am getting the retail version of W7 Pro for xmas. I suppose I didn't realize what I was getting myself into as it never occured to me that I was going to need to totally redo my PC once I got the retail Windows 7... which means all of my saved games and shit are going to be lost unless I make sure I transfer everything.

Now, I was wondering what the most efficient way of backing up all my shit would be. I was told I need to reformat my harddrive before reinstalling a new OS, is there a way to like...totally backup EVERYTHING on my harddrive on to my external? (similar to the PS3 harddrive backup utility) or should I only take some folders like my documents and shit? I know not all my saved games are in my documents, some are probably in the Steam directory and AppData. Am I missing any other key folders that I might need to take with me to ensure no valuable game saves are lost?
Actually, you don't need to format completely. Windows 7 will make a Windows.old folder and put all your old stuff in there unless you don't want it to.

I also wouldn't back up EVERYTHING if you're going the other route as it's good to force yourself to dump what you don't need. Copy over your SteamApps folder in Program Files (x86) and My Games folder in My Documents. Most of your save files should be in those two folders.
 
Firestorm said:
Actually, you don't need to format completely. Windows 7 will make a Windows.old folder and put all your old stuff in there unless you don't want it to.

I also wouldn't back up EVERYTHING if you're going the other route as it's good to force yourself to dump what you don't need. Copy over your SteamApps folder in Program Files (x86) and My Games folder in My Documents. Most of your save files should be in those two folders.

So as far as not formatting completely... I just need to pop in the full install W7 dvd and it will handle what it formats and what it keeps? But as far as backing stuff up I should be fine with only getting SteamApps and My Games folder? Because I can't for the life of me find certain saved games in those folders, like for example, Spore (or is that all stored on the Spore servers?)
 

zoku88

Member
Bah, it does seem as though I have memory defects on my GPU. Didn't make my computer shutdown, though.

Atitool didn't work, but GPUtool didn't report any errors.

Can anyone think of anything else to reproduce my problem? (besides just playing those games, which I guessed worked 100% of the time.)
 

mrgone

Member
ncix is boned :) *angryface*

Anyone know if the giftcard + free shipping still works if you still have it in your cart from like 6 months ago? :D
 

Firestorm

Member
Yeah the free shipping gift card will still work. If you're still in Canada, here's a $1000 build:

Aside from free shipping for entire order on some items... The sale kinda blows...
You're still stuck with no affordable 5850 cards in stock. Although the Black Edition 5850 isn't bad if you think that it comes with Left 4 Dead 2 and free shipping... You can also look at upgrding the 500GB Seagate to a 1TB Western Digital or Samsung F3 for more space.

$1000 Build (Updated December 26th, 2009)
Antec Three Hundred Mini Tower ATX Case - $53.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=29812

650W Antec Earthwatts PSU - $59.88
http://www3.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=30037&vpn=EA650&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1012

Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD3 Motherboard - 145.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=46237&vpn=GA-P55A-UD3&manufacture=Gigabyte

Corsair DDR3 4GB Dual Channel Kit - $94.99 - $15 MIR = $79.99
http://www3.ncix.com/products/index...GX3M2A1600C9&manufacture=Corsair&promoid=1012

Intel i5-750 2.66GHz Processor - $199.94
http://www3.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=46237&vpn=GA-P55A-UD3&manufacture=Gigabyte&promoid=1012

PC Assembly and Testing with 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty - $41.09
Scroll down and add Assembly Option on the i7 750 deal as a bundle.

Samsung F3 500GB HDD - $58.85
http://forums.ncix.com/forums/?mode=showthread&threadid=2095922

LG GH24NS50 24X Super Multi SATA DVD Writer OEM Black - after Price Match it's $26.99
http://www3.ncix.com/products/index...4NS50&manufacture=LG Electronics&promoid=1012

XFX Radeon HD 5850 BlacK Edition + Left 4 Dead 2 - $389.99 with free shipping for entire order
http://www3.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=46788&vpn=HD585AZNBC&manufacture=XFX&promoid=1012

Downgrade to the 5770 which is also a DirectX 11 card but lower power:
Sapphire Radeon HD 5770 - $178.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=45066&vpn=21163-10-20R&manufacture=SAPPHIRE&promoid=1065

Or get a last year's DirectX 10 card, the Radeon HD 4890 which is currently more powerful than a 5770 but much weaker than the 5850.
XFX Radeon HD 4890 - $174.99 with free shipping for entire order
http://www3.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=42996&vpn=HD489XZSFC&manufacture=XFX&promoid=1012

NOTE: If you downgrade the Video Card to the 5770, I'd highly recommend upgrading the Hard Drive to a 1TB Western Digital Caviar Black ($40 more than the Seagate) so you can still get free shipping.

Total
$1071.70 - $15 MIR = $1056.70 + tax with free shipping
 
Rawr, fuck faulty ram. Now I have to wait an extra week until I can get my PC up and running. I was soo close too! And there might be an issue with my Motherboard too :l Hopefully that's not the case.
 

Decado

Member
Hmmm. I'm trying to decide what to get to upgrade my PC. I need RAM, Windows 7 and a new video card.

Looking at these:

Corsair XMS3

http://www.ncix.com/products/index....GX3M2A1600C9&manufacture=Corsair&promoid=1012

Radeon HD 4980 cards (Powercolor or HIS):

http://www.ncix.com/products/index....890 1GBD5&manufacture=PowerColor&promoid=1012

OR a pricey Powercolour 5850 card and Windows 7 OEM combo:

http://www.ncix.com/products/index....in7 Pro&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1012

I'm in Canada, so the prices probably won't look good to any of you :p

Thanks
 
HEY GUYS I AM COMMUNICATING TO YOU THROUGH THE MACHINE I BUILT WITH MY OWN HANDS

Feels SO good! My first built computer and it went without a hitch! And for a little less than $1000, about 33% than what my family payed for their Vista setup a few years ago!

First thing I did was dl the RE5 benchmark, 60FPS most of the way though! :3

I wanna thank you guys, and this great thread, and Newegg for pushing me in the right direction to this sexy sexy thing!
 

Sysgen

Member
Firestorm said:
Actually, you don't need to format completely. Windows 7 will make a Windows.old folder and put all your old stuff in there unless you don't want it to.

I also wouldn't back up EVERYTHING if you're going the other route as it's good to force yourself to dump what you don't need. Copy over your SteamApps folder in Program Files (x86) and My Games folder in My Documents. Most of your save files should be in those two folders.

You should add Steam/Userdata. Found my SSHD saves in there.
 

Firestorm

Member
Decado said:
Hmmm. I'm trying to decide what to get to upgrade my PC. I need RAM, Windows 7 and a new video card.

Looking at these:

Corsair XMS3

http://www.ncix.com/products/index....GX3M2A1600C9&manufacture=Corsair&promoid=1012

Radeon HD 4980 cards (Powercolor or HIS):

http://www.ncix.com/products/index....890 1GBD5&manufacture=PowerColor&promoid=1012

OR a pricey Powercolour 5850 card and Windows 7 OEM combo:

http://www.ncix.com/products/index....in7 Pro&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1012

I'm in Canada, so the prices probably won't look good to any of you :p

Thanks
If you decide on the 4890, get the XFX one which gives your entire order free shipping. I'd personally go with that RAM + XFX 5850 Black Edition (free shipping for entire order + left 4 dead 2) + buy a $10 Windows 7 Pro code from someone.
 
So this is probably old news, but I feel like Intel might have screwed me? Over the summer I built a PC, and went with the i7 920.

Just read this: http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets/showdoc.aspx?i=3634

As I understand it, i7's are pretty damn new and they are 1344 socket. the 920 is a Bloomsfield (?) and they are now making newer models called Lynnfield which are LGA-1156 socket and are cheaper, and even better than the 920.

If this is true, and Intel are already starting to go with a new socket type only after just starting with the 1344, doesn't that pretty much screw over anyone with a 1344 socketed motherboard as far as upgrading processors in the future? Or am I misreading all of this.
 

Firestorm

Member
They're also making more LGA1366 socket CPUs. The 1366 is meant for high end / workstation CPUs I believe while the 1156 is the mainstream. For gaming, the i5 performs similarly to the i7 920. The i7 920 does better in applications that take advantage of hyperthreading.

Rest assured, you have a good CPU and a good motherboard.
 

Decado

Member
Firestorm said:
If you decide on the 4890, get the XFX one which gives your entire order free shipping. I'd personally go with that RAM + XFX 5850 Black Edition (free shipping for entire order + left 4 dead 2) + buy a $10 Windows 7 Pro code from someone.
Thanks for the advice. Not interested in left4dead and the xfx card seems pretty expensive. I don't see one that includes RAM...

Didn't know you could buy a code. How does that work? You download the OS to your HD and it installs over XP?
 

senahorse

Member
TouchMyBox said:
Actually, this is a possibility now that you mention it. He was previously complaining about stuttering so I suggested to disable multi-core rendering, but only if it helped. He claimed to have enabled it again after, but maybe he didn't.

I just found it funny that we were at a lan last night and i see what should be a superior cpu choke on what my athlon II chewed up and spat out.


Defintely not CPU limited. I just did a quick run on my machine (also a core i5 750, with stock hsf) and it ran rock solid at 60fps (1920x1080 with everything maxxed, 8XAA etc), never missed a beat, trying to put as much on the screen as possible and I couldn't affect the fps. I ran with multi-core rendering enabled and disabled and the framerate didn't even change. Also at the time I had a buch of stuff running in the background. I would be looking elsewhere, gpu/memory maybe? If not it's probalby software related.
 

Minsc

Gold Member
MisterAnderson said:
So this is probably old news, but I feel like Intel might have screwed me? Over the summer I built a PC, and went with the i7 920.

Just read this: http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets/showdoc.aspx?i=3634

As I understand it, i7's are pretty damn new and they are 1344 socket. the 920 is a Bloomsfield (?) and they are now making newer models called Lynnfield which are LGA-1156 socket and are cheaper, and even better than the 920.

If this is true, and Intel are already starting to go with a new socket type only after just starting with the 1344, doesn't that pretty much screw over anyone with a 1344 socketed motherboard as far as upgrading processors in the future? Or am I misreading all of this.

That's an old article. The 1366 socket has more of a future right now than the 1156 socket (the chips from that article). The only problem is, as mentioned, the 1366 socket is workstation class, so is super-expensive. But you should have known that before you bought it! :)
 

Firestorm

Member
Decado said:
Thanks for the advice. Not interested in left4dead and the xfx card seems pretty expensive. I don't see one that includes RAM...

Didn't know you could buy a code. How does that work? You download the OS to your HD and it installs over XP?
Sorry, I meant the RAM you chose, then add 5850 to your order. You can't really buy it from MS. There are people who are selling their Keys from MSDN and MSDNAA though (against MS' ToS but yeah...) for $10 - $20. All you'd need is to download an ISO and use that key.
 
Minsc said:
That's an old article. The 1366 socket has more of a future right now than the 1156 socket (the chips from that article). The only problem is, as mentioned, the 1366 socket is workstation class, so is super-expensive. But you should have known that before you bought it! :)

Glad to hear that I didn't back myself into a corner as far as upgrading is concerned. And yeah, it probably would have been smarter for me to wait for the i5 since it is more affordable/just as viable for gaming as the i7's, but my computer pretty much died over the summer and I needed something fast, and something good :p
 

elostyle

Never forget! I'm Dumb!
Help me GAF, as for I am very confused right now.

So I put together my new Core i5 machine and fitted it with memory that I bought under the premise to be '1600Mhz CL8 DDR3' memory at 1.65v. I went with this because everything else in the store was marked at a higher voltage for CL8 and lower.

Now, CPU-Z shows me this:

Capture1.png
Capture.png


It's running at 1333Mhz which I suppose it's fine since that's the max the chipset supports. However it is timed at CL9 at this speed. Have I been ripped of? Have I bought the wrong stuff? Is this slow?

Thanks GAF.
 

darthbob

Member
elostyle said:
Help me GAF, as for I am very confused right now.

So I put together my new Core i5 machine and fitted it with memory that I bought under the premise to be '1600Mhz CL8 DDR3' memory at 1.65v. I went with this because everything else in the store was marked at a higher voltage for CL8 and lower.

It's running at 1333Mhz which I suppose it's fine since that's the max the chipset supports. However it is timed at CL9 at this speed. Have I been ripped of? Have I bought the wrong stuff? Is this slow?

Thanks GAF.

RAM can be rated to run at a higher speed than it is initially shipped with. Usually, they rate their timings lower and the clocks higher on sites like Newegg because people are pretty knowledgeable about that kind of stuff....anyways.

You should set the timings and clocks manually. They should work as that's what they've been advertised as. However, if you can't get the memory clocks to run at 1600MHz, don't be surprised. You wouldn't see a huge difference in performance. Also, if you lower the timings, you might want to change it from 1T to 2T.
 
I'll read through this thread later, but I just wanted to say that I want to try out PC gaming gaming so bad...but I don't know shit about computers and I'm extremely intimidated with the prices and, well...not knowing anything :lol

I really want L4D2 on PC even though I already have it on 360--that, and I'm super jealous of all the Steam sales I see and hear about.

I currently have 504MB of RAM and apparently that's very little? I still haven't grasped electronic sizes yet :lol D:

So, yeah, I need to educate myself before I even consider getting a gaming PC, obviously XD And a job ;_;
 

nib95

Banned
Could someone answer me a question. Do both Nvidia and ATI cards have GPU acceleration for programmes like Photoshop and 3dsMax/MAYA?
 

GHG

Member
Right, need a new HDD because over the last few months steam has filled my current one.

Whats the best HDD manufacturer, especially in termns of reliability? There are so many out there, Western Digital, Toshiba, Smasung, Maxtor, Seagate, etc, etc. Where do I start? Want just a standard SATA drive around 500GB of space.

Thanks GAF :D .
 

VaLiancY

Member
Firestorm said:
Yeah the free shipping gift card will still work. If you're still in Canada, here's a $1000 build:

Aside from free shipping for entire order on some items... The sale kinda blows...
You're still stuck with no affordable 5850 cards in stock. Although the Black Edition 5850 isn't bad if you think that it comes with Left 4 Dead 2 and free shipping... You can also look at upgrding the 500GB Seagate to a 1TB Western Digital or Samsung F3 for more space.

$1000 Build (Updated December 26th, 2009)

I could kiss you Firestorm. I was looking for something like this since my PC just died on me a few days ago!:D
 

tabsina

Member
GHG said:
Right, need a new HDD because over the last few months steam has filled my current one.

Whats the best HDD manufacturer, especially in termns of reliability? There are so many out there, Western Digital, Toshiba, Smasung, Maxtor, Seagate, etc, etc. Where do I start? Want just a standard SATA drive around 500GB of space.

Thanks GAF :D .

I don't know if it is the most reliable, but I have never had a problem with Western Digital HDDs
 
I got a 5770 today and I am in the process of buying a monitor tomorrow.
Now i know nothing about monitors so how important is 2ms vs 5ms and like 20000vs50000:1 contrast. I would prefer to spend under 200 and get 23"+ for 1920x1200 gaming. Right now I see three potential options but I am not sure how good they are.

The samsung from NCIX: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=42752&vpn=LS23MYZKFVA/ZC&manufacture=Samsung&promoid=1012

The acer from bestbuy:http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0926INGFS10132721&catid=26175&logon=&langid=EN

The LG from futureshop" http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0665000FS10119042&logon=&langid=EN

I am leaning towards the LG, does it look sufficient? Also keep in mind these are canadian prices as tomorrow is canada's "Black Friday"

fixed links
 

Minsc

Gold Member
nib95 said:
Could someone answer me a question. Do both Nvidia and ATI cards have GPU acceleration for programmes like Photoshop and 3dsMax/MAYA?

I believe CS4 has GPU acceleration for windows only, and CS5 is going to expand on it further.

GHG said:
Right, need a new HDD because over the last few months steam has filled my current one.

Whats the best HDD manufacturer, especially in termns of reliability? There are so many out there, Western Digital, Toshiba, Smasung, Maxtor, Seagate, etc, etc. Where do I start? Want just a standard SATA drive around 500GB of space.

Thanks GAF :D .

I favor WD, if you need a drive for storage only, their Green series is really quiet, if you need a gaming drive, their black series has a 5-year warranty, and if anything goes wrong they will replace your drive for free, so that's pretty hard to top.
 

Firestorm

Member
arts&crafts said:
I got a 5770 today and I am in the process of buying a monitor tomorrow.
Now i know nothing about monitors so how important is 2ms vs 5ms and like 20000vs50000:1 contrast. I would prefer to spend under 200 and get 23"+ for 1920x1200 gaming. Right now I see three potential options but I am not sure how good they are.

The samsung from NCIX: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...g&promoid=1012

The acer from bestbuy: http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/prodde...gon=&langid=EN

The LG from futureshop" http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...on=&langid=EN#

I am leaning towards the LG, does it look sufficient? Also keep in mind these are canadian prices as tomorrow is canada's "Black Friday"
You didn't copy the URLs right.

Edit: Oh you also put it in the Canada thread.
The samsung from NCIX: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=42752&vpn=LS23MYZKFVA/ZC&manufacture=Samsung&promoid=1012

The acer from bestbuy: http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0926INGFS10132721&catid=26175&logon=&langid=EN

The LG from futureshop" http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0665000FS10119042&logon=&langid=EN#

I'd go with the LG too. I'm pretty sure that Acer is their lower end model. Also, when you see no "save ###" it means that Future Shop / Best Buy isn't discounting it by much or had a special Boxing Day version made up. iirc, the Acer X series is their low end.

As for the Samsung, it has an oddball resolution and NCIX has really crappy return / dead pixel policy as well as shipping charges.
 
Firestorm said:
You didn't copy the URLs right.

Edit: Oh you also put it in the Canada thread.
The samsung from NCIX: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=42752&vpn=LS23MYZKFVA/ZC&manufacture=Samsung&promoid=1012

The acer from bestbuy: http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0926INGFS10132721&catid=26175&logon=&langid=EN

The LG from futureshop" http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0665000FS10119042&logon=&langid=EN#

I'd go with the LG too. I'm pretty sure that Acer is their lower end model. Also, when you see no "save ###" it means that Future Shop / Best Buy isn't discounting it by much or had a special Boxing Day version made up. iirc, the Acer X series is their low end.

As for the Samsung, it has an oddball resolution and NCIX has really crappy return / dead pixel policy as well as shipping charges.

ahh thank you thank you. I just fixed the links. Yea i trust LG more then acer aswell.
 

r4z4

Member
Hey guys I am thinking of building a gaming PC for the upcoming goodness that will be TOR, Diablo and Starcraft amongst others. I remember there used to be a thread on GAF with suggested builds for low/medium/high gaming machines? Is this the new version of that thread? I have a budget of about £500-£600 Any help much appreciated.
 

Minsc

Gold Member
TheExodu5 said:
So I ordered an Intel X25-M 80GB drive today for $250 CDN:

http://www.shoprbc.com/ca/shop/product_details.php?pid=59602

Am I in for a world of awesome? Also, what are the essential settings or things I need to do to get this running properly using Windows 7 (no pagefiling, etc...)?

Make sure you have the latest firmware (should probably be installed already), make sure Windows is detecting it as a SSD (if you go to the disk defragmenter, windows should not list it as a vialable choice to degrafment) and that TRIM is enabled (there's some command you can run from a prompt to see), people suggest setting pagefile to around 1GB, but I just leave it as is, and don't expect any real performance gains from installing games on it, it just makes all your windows apps load extremely fast!

You'll want to make sure to leave some space free for data remapping, so the drive lasts longer, 20% should be ample, I have around 50% free on mine! I think either way the drive will be replaced long before it goes bad, I think anandtech estimated well over 20 years of daily high data usage needed to wear it away.
 

Firestorm

Member
For some reason everything that should be affected by PhysX in Batman Arkham Asylum isn't and just stays floating in the air. Anyone have this issue and how did you fix it? I'm afraid it might be because I cancelled the first time setup thing when I launched the game from Steam... Is there a way to make it do the first time setup again when I launch the game?
 

John

Member
So I got a Coolermaster 212+ for Christmas today (off of Maximum PCs' recommendation). Note for anyone considering getting one of these that I had to take my mobo out and basically deconstruct and rebuild my computer entirely to do this, so it's a two-hour project.

Thing is, the main reason I wanted to upgrade from stock heatsink was to get something quieter. How can I tell the thing not to go full power all the time?
 
So, I hear it's a bad idea to OC a laptop.


Kinda strange but I picked up a fairly cheap gateway/amd/ati laptop for Christmas and it has a Turion X2 - RM72 processor running at 2.1Ghz@1.125 stock voltage with heat around 86c at full load (prime95).

I use K10Stat to lower the voltage and I'm able to overclock the chip, at .975 volts without failing prime95, at 4Ghz right now and still have the temps at 72c full load after a good 30 minutes of p95.

Sound normal for this processor?

image-07D1_4B358DD7.jpg
 

Relix

he's Virgin Tight™
Firestorm said:
Actually, you don't need to format completely. Windows 7 will make a Windows.old folder and put all your old stuff in there unless you don't want it to.

I also wouldn't back up EVERYTHING if you're going the other route as it's good to force yourself to dump what you don't need. Copy over your SteamApps folder in Program Files (x86) and My Games folder in My Documents. Most of your save files should be in those two folders.

I have a fear of purchasing W7 because of this. I run Vista 32 on a 400GB Single Partition HDD. If I install W7 I HAVE to format my Vista side, but I never heard (or can't remember) of it making a Windows.old backup. So when I am in install I can choose WHAT to back up? So I could backup my Steam Apps, Music, Anime, etc and then on W7 easily recover/re-establish them... right?

If it's like this I'll get Windows 7 tomorrow or over the next few days. On my father's laptop it runs much better than Vista ever did and I've heard it can give you a few additional frames inside games.
 

Presto

Member
Hey guys, I'm trying to make a computer for under $1000, the cheaper the better. It's been a while since I've looked at computer hardware so I'm open to any advice that can be offered.

CPU: Intel Core i7 860 Processor - 2.80GHz, LGA 1156, 8MB L3 Cache, Quad-Core, Lynnfield, Retail (0.95 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4959972&sku=I69-0860 $279.99

Ram: OCZ Intel Extreme Edition Dual Channel 4096MB PC12800 DDR3 1600MHz Memory (2 x 2048MB) (0.25 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3984931&sku=O261-7504 $115.99

Motherboard: MSI P55-CD53 Motherboard - Intel P55, Socket LGA1156, Core i5 (3.1 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5083743&sku=M452-6072 $109.99

Videocard: XFX Radeon HD 5770 Video Card - 1GB GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0, CrossFireX Ready, Dual DVI, Display Port, HDMI (2.8 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5316156&sku=P450-5770 $179.99

Case and power supply : http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3250925&sku=TC3J-4030 P $29.99

Soundcard: Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCIe - OEM (0.22 lbs) http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4603193&sku=C44-3504 $39.99

Right now I'm at $755.94 so I have some room to spare and to be honest, I'm not totally sure everything I've picked out so far is compatible ( Ram, motherboard and cpu)


Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Presto said:
Hey guys, I'm trying to make a computer for under $1000, the cheaper the better. It's been a while since I've looked at computer hardware so I'm open to any advice that can be offered.

CPU: Intel Core i7

Stop right there. A i5 750 is really all the CPU that can be justified for gaming purposes. Spending more on a CPU is pointless unless you have some very multithreading friendly applications that you run all day.

860 Processor - 2.80GHz, LGA 1156, 8MB L3 Cache, Quad-Core, Lynnfield, Retail (0.95 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4959972&sku=I69-0860 $279.99

Ram: OCZ Intel Extreme Edition Dual Channel 4096MB PC12800 DDR3 1600MHz Memory (2 x 2048MB) (0.25 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3984931&sku=O261-7504 $115.99

Motherboard: MSI P55-CD53 Motherboard - Intel P55, Socket LGA1156, Core i5 (3.1 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5083743&sku=M452-6072 $109.99

Videocard: XFX Radeon HD 5770 Video Card - 1GB GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0, CrossFireX Ready, Dual DVI, Display Port, HDMI (2.8 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5316156&sku=P450-5770 $179.99

Case and power supply : http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3250925&sku=TC3J-4030 P $29.99
There might be cases w/ included PSUs not by Antec that are worth buying but I don't know of them and they cost more than $30
.
Soundcard: Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCIe - OEM (0.22 lbs) http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4603193&sku=C44-3504 $39.99
Are you sure you need a sound card? Most find on board to be fine. Anyway I don't think I've heard Creative sound cards being recommended for a good long while.
Right now I'm at $755.94 so I have some room to spare and to be honest, I'm not totally sure everything I've picked out so far is compatible ( Ram, motherboard and cpu)


Any help would be much appreciated.
 

chixdiggit

Member
lowlylowlycook said:
Stop right there. A i5 750 is really all the CPU that can be justified for gaming purposes. Spending more on a CPU is pointless unless you have some very multithreading friendly applications that you run all day.


Thanks for that. Been wondering if I7 was worth the extra money.
 

Firestorm

Member
Relix said:
I have a fear of purchasing W7 because of this. I run Vista 32 on a 400GB Single Partition HDD. If I install W7 I HAVE to format my Vista side, but I never heard (or can't remember) of it making a Windows.old backup. So when I am in install I can choose WHAT to back up? So I could backup my Steam Apps, Music, Anime, etc and then on W7 easily recover/re-establish them... right?

If it's like this I'll get Windows 7 tomorrow or over the next few days. On my father's laptop it runs much better than Vista ever did and I've heard it can give you a few additional frames inside games.
Just have the Windows 7 CD in your tray when you boot, click custom install instead of upgrade, choose the hard drive you want to install to, all files get backed up into windows.old regardless of 32 bit / 64 bit / whatever. Just don't format the drive before installing.
 

Firestorm

Member
Presto said:
Hey guys, I'm trying to make a computer for under $1000, the cheaper the better. It's been a while since I've looked at computer hardware so I'm open to any advice that can be offered.

CPU: Intel Core i7 860 Processor - 2.80GHz, LGA 1156, 8MB L3 Cache, Quad-Core, Lynnfield, Retail (0.95 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4959972&sku=I69-0860 $279.99

Ram: OCZ Intel Extreme Edition Dual Channel 4096MB PC12800 DDR3 1600MHz Memory (2 x 2048MB) (0.25 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3984931&sku=O261-7504 $115.99

Motherboard: MSI P55-CD53 Motherboard - Intel P55, Socket LGA1156, Core i5 (3.1 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5083743&sku=M452-6072 $109.99

Videocard: XFX Radeon HD 5770 Video Card - 1GB GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0, CrossFireX Ready, Dual DVI, Display Port, HDMI (2.8 lbs)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5316156&sku=P450-5770 $179.99

Case and power supply : http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3250925&sku=TC3J-4030 P $29.99

Soundcard: Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCIe - OEM (0.22 lbs) http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4603193&sku=C44-3504 $39.99

Right now I'm at $755.94 so I have some room to spare and to be honest, I'm not totally sure everything I've picked out so far is compatible ( Ram, motherboard and cpu)


Any help would be much appreciated.
CPU: Intel Core i5-750
GPU: Radeon 5850
PSU: Something around $60 that's a 500W - 650W Corsair, Antec, Seasonic, or even OCZ
Motherboard: I like Gigabyte, so a Gigabyte P55A-UD3 or UD4P
HDD: 500GB Samsung Spinpoint F3, 640 GB Western Digital Caviar Black, or 1TB Western Digital Caviar Black / Samsung Spinpoint F3 depending on how much space you want
RAM: Cheapest G.SKILL, Mushkin, or Corsair memory you can find
DVD: Cheapest SATA DVD Burner you can find
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
MidgarBlowedUp said:
So, I hear it's a bad idea to OC a laptop.


Kinda strange but I picked up a fairly cheap gateway/amd/ati laptop for Christmas and it has a Turion X2 - RM72 processor running at 2.1Ghz@1.125 stock voltage with heat around 86c at full load (prime95).

I use K10Stat to lower the voltage and I'm able to overclock the chip, at .975 volts without failing prime95, at 4Ghz right now and still have the temps at 72c full load after a good 30 minutes of p95.

Sound normal for this processor?
...No?

Highest overclocks on hwbot show 2.8Ghz

http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/turion_x2_rm_72

That 4Ghz seems just pain wrong or impossible.
 
Guys, what's the best solution for wireless mouse/KB for a HTPC? I'll be sitting about 10-15 ft away. I've played with several wireless solutions in the past that had a max range of only a few feet so I don't want to get the wrong thing.

BTW, I've got a lot of Best Buy gift cards so if possible I'd rather get it there than pay out of pocket.
 
Hey guys which of these two HDDs would you recommend.

Western Digital WD5000AADS Caviar Green 500GB SATA 32MB 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM

or

Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB SATA2 3.5IN 8.5MS 7200RPM 16MB Hard Drive OEM

Also, whats the diff between SATA and SATA2? My comp is an AMD 939 socket so its not new by any means, would I potentially have compatibility issues with SATA2?

Thanks guys. Oh, anyway to get free shipping through NCIX? I was hoping there was a code floating around since its boxing day and all.

Edit: I should note, on the spec page it says
Maximum External Data Transfer Rate: 300MBps (WD)
and
160-MB/s maximum sustained data rate (Seagate)
Up to 3-Gb/s instantaneous burst
 
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