Lion Heart said:Well, I only want an HDD and those two are great deals so 10 dollars for shipping is not that big of a deal, I was just curious. I guess I'll wait but I hope I dont miss out on these items. Anyway, for the new page:
Which of these two HDDs would you recommend.
Western Digital WD5000AADS Caviar Green 500GB SATA 32MB 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM
Maximum External Data Transfer Rate: 300MBps
or
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB SATA2 3.5IN 8.5MS 7200RPM 16MB Hard Drive OEM
160-MB/s maximum sustained data rate (Seagate)
Up to 3-Gb/s instantaneous burst
Also, whats the diff between SATA and SATA2? My comp is an AMD 939 socket so its not new by any means, would I potentially have compatibility issues with SATA2?
Thanks guys.
chuckddd said:Are you just getting a hdd for more storage? Because neither one of those is going to perform well as a system drive. If it is just for storage, get the cheaper one.
And a sata2 drive should work fine, you may need to move a jumper.
Firestorm said:
TheExodu5 said:So I ordered an Intel X25-M 80GB drive today for $250 CDN:
http://www.shoprbc.com/ca/shop/product_details.php?pid=59602
Am I in for a world of awesome? Also, what are the essential settings or things I need to do to get this running properly using Windows 7 (no pagefiling, etc...)?
Hazaro said:I would also like to know since I am likely to cave in soon.
TaKeRx said:this is what I have so far and the only thing missing is the motherboard, any cheap recommendations? or any changes to this build?
*shrugs* I've never even heard of Seasonic before at all, so no point taken there.Firestorm said:He picked Seasonic. Seasonic is a great brand and actually makes many of Corsair's PSUs. Sound cards aren't really useful these days. Motherboards have great integrated sound imo.
Can you take a screenshot?Pachinko said:I tried out those same parts without using the configurater and even went through the trouble of price matching- for some reason the power supply never let me price match (perhaps you can only pricematch 10 items? ) because almost everything was either within a dollar at newegg.ca or cheaper.
So this resulted in a final price that was about 100 bucks less then using the pc configurator. The problem was that without using that I had to add 50 bucks to build it still, and the free shipping option was gone so in the end I saved 15 bucks.
But perhaps messing around tomorrow a bit more I can change out that HDD to re-add free shipping (which saves 35 dollars).
It needs to be mentioned though , for whatever reason using the configurator was about 75 dollars less then picking parts individually , some of that was free shipping , I'm not sure where the rest came from.
Thanks so far though gang.
Darkatomz said:*shrugs* I've never even heard of Seasonic before at all, so no point taken there.
My SATA controller is set as IDE because Windows 7 won't load on AHCI. I could be doing something wrong, though. What do you mean by primary SATA port? I have an Asus P6T deluxe v2 and have my SSD attached by what's labeled port 3 in my BIOS (it's on the side of my board and not on the top). Windows detects it as an SSD and it loads programs very quickly so I assumed it was performing correctly.SuperEnemyCrab said:Pretty much what Minsc said. Here is the command you can run to make sure TRIM is enabled. You should make sure it's plugged into the primary SATA port and your SATA controller is set to AHCI in the bios as well. I haven't touched the page file settings either, I've read Win 7 does a fine job on it's own. It has 74.5gb formatted, after installing windows, a few games and apps I have 35gb left on it.
Here is a shot of a quick benchmark comparing my X-25m 80gb Vs Samsung spinpoint f3 1tb drives: (Intel SSD on the left, Samsung on the right)
Been almost a month since i've had it installed and working and it's as speedy as ever. In fact I re-ran my windows performance index after installing new AMD 64bit sata drivers and the new catalyst 9.12 hotfix and the drive now comes out at 7.8, was 7.3 before. Using a Gigabyte GA-MA78GPM-UD2H mobo for reference.
Anyway, best general upgrade I can recommend for a desktop or laptop if you can get it at a good price. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions!
To enable AHCI, do this: http://www.ithinkdiff.com/how-to-enable-ahci-in-windows-7-rc-after-installation/Crunched said:My SATA controller is set as IDE because Windows 7 won't load on AHCI. I could be doing something wrong, though. What do you mean by primary SATA port? I have an Asus P6T deluxe v2 and have my SSD attached by what's labeled port 3 in my BIOS (it's on the side of my board and not on the top). Windows detects it as an SSD and it loads programs very quickly so I assumed it was performing correctly.
One thing I've noticed is my PC always shows the message "no disk detected" when it boots, and won't boot unless I have my HDD set up as my boot drive. I have Windows installed on my SSD, but if I try to boot from it my PC goes to the next boot option, as if it isn't detected. Causes my boot time to be a little higher than it probably should be, especially compared to my shut down time (which is five or six seconds).
SuperEnemyCrab said:Here is a shot of a quick benchmark comparing my X-25m 80gb Vs Samsung spinpoint f3 1tb drives: (Intel SSD on the left, Samsung on the right)
corn_fest said:Finished my PC a while ago:
CPU: Core i7 920 /w Arctic Silver 5 and Freezer 7 Pro
Motherboard: MSI X86 Pro-E - LGA 1366 Intel X58
GPU: Radeon HD 5770
RAM: g.skill 6gb DDR3 1333
HDD: 1TB WD Caviar Black (loudest component I have)
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
Case: Cooler Master Centurion 5
Only thing I had any trouble with was installing the heatsink, somehow I failed at reading the instruction manual and didn't realize you could take the fan off when you were installing it, which meant I was trying to screw in a screw at an odd angle through fan blades :lol. Wasn't sure if the thermal paste got lifter when trying to install it, but the temps seem OK from what I've read:
Minsc said:Here's my WD Black:
Is your Samsung bench is off for the read 4K test? That's pretty crazy, how is it possible it's that fast (faster than your SSD)?
I think this is more in line with a traditional HDD's ability to mass-read/write teeny files, where SSDs tend to excel.
My i7 920 is 7.6 in Windows Experience Index.tabsina said:has anything gotten a higher score for the processor than the i7 at 7.4?
Thanks, it's fixed now.Firestorm said:To enable AHCI, do this: http://www.ithinkdiff.com/how-to-enable-ahci-in-windows-7-rc-after-installation/
Minsc said:Is your Samsung bench is off for the read 4K test? That's pretty crazy, how is it possible it's that fast (faster than your SSD)?
I think this is more in line with a traditional HDD's ability to mass-read/write teeny files, where SSDs tend to excel.
tabsina said:has anything gotten a higher score for the processor than the i7 at 7.4?
I bought two copies of Windows 7. One from Digitalriver and one straight from Microsoft. I used the one from Microsoft but I have an upgrade version of Windows 7 proffesional 64-bit that I have no use for. If you are interested in it, PM me, I'm sure we can work something out.Pachinko said:Hi guys! Okay so I took some of your build suggestions, used pricegrabber and managed to still squeek by at just under 1500 canadian. I'm practically laughing in my seat at how much I'm saving price matching but the catch is that some of these prices end today, and most of them are done by the end of the month.
I don't know what NCIX does to verify all this stuff- if I order it and before they bill me and build it they send an email telling me what they were unable to match or what exactly.
Anyway, I have 1 final question concerning this build-
RAM
Above, someone mentioned that I should either get 4 or 6 gb of ram. Now, the motherboard has 4 slots, so am I not able to later add a second 2X2 kit for a total of 8 gb ? or are 2 of those ram slots dead unless I want the ram to run slower?
School me on this, I'd like to know , might not change what I purchase in regards to memory but inquiring minds and all that.
So unless you guys can forsee any conflicts with the parts I have that I do not see then I will likely bite the bullet on this just a little while from now (I'm gonna go check best buy for blurays and such)
Here is a link to a photobucket image of my current receipt - Click me please!
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/memory-module-upgrade,2264-8.htmlPachinko said:Hi guys! Okay so I took some of your build suggestions, used pricegrabber and managed to still squeek by at just under 1500 canadian. I'm practically laughing in my seat at how much I'm saving price matching but the catch is that some of these prices end today, and most of them are done by the end of the month.
I don't know what NCIX does to verify all this stuff- if I order it and before they bill me and build it they send an email telling me what they were unable to match or what exactly.
Anyway, I have 1 final question concerning this build-
RAM
Above, someone mentioned that I should either get 4 or 6 gb of ram. Now, the motherboard has 4 slots, so am I not able to later add a second 2X2 kit for a total of 8 gb ? or are 2 of those ram slots dead unless I want the ram to run slower?
School me on this, I'd like to know , might not change what I purchase in regards to memory but inquiring minds and all that.
So unless you guys can forsee any conflicts with the parts I have that I do not see then I will likely bite the bullet on this just a little while from now (I'm gonna go check best buy for blurays and such)
Here is a link to a photobucket image of my current receipt - Click me please!
Since he is using an 1156 socket motherboard which is dual channel memory I would suggest either 4 or 8. 4 should be plenty and if at a later point you need more you can just get 4 more and it will probably be cheaper by then.Darkatomz said:http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/memory-module-upgrade,2264-8.html
Whether you think you need 4gb or 6gb depends on what you're using the computer for (multitasking, encoding, gaming, whatever). I would make the decision now to either get a 4gb kit or a 6gb kit (yes, they sell those for ddr3).
You added the motherboard twice by mistake. You also seem to have added everything from the regular product pages instead of NCIX's sale page. Most of it doesn't matter, but the following does:Pachinko said:Hi guys! Okay so I took some of your build suggestions, used pricegrabber and managed to still squeek by at just under 1500 canadian. I'm practically laughing in my seat at how much I'm saving price matching but the catch is that some of these prices end today, and most of them are done by the end of the month.
I don't know what NCIX does to verify all this stuff- if I order it and before they bill me and build it they send an email telling me what they were unable to match or what exactly.
Anyway, I have 1 final question concerning this build-
RAM
Above, someone mentioned that I should either get 4 or 6 gb of ram. Now, the motherboard has 4 slots, so am I not able to later add a second 2X2 kit for a total of 8 gb ? or are 2 of those ram slots dead unless I want the ram to run slower?
School me on this, I'd like to know , might not change what I purchase in regards to memory but inquiring minds and all that.
So unless you guys can forsee any conflicts with the parts I have that I do not see then I will likely bite the bullet on this just a little while from now (I'm gonna go check best buy for blurays and such)
Here is a link to a photobucket image of my current receipt - Click me please!
Hellsing321 said:Is this combo deal up on newegg any good?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.306543
Intel Core i5 750 (Lynnfield) 2.66GHz LGA 116 95W Quad-Core Processor - Retail
GIGABYTE Intel P55 Chipset Micro ATX Motherboard (GA-P55M-UD2) - Retail
G.Skill Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit (F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL) - Retail
Seagate Barracuda LP 1.5TB 5900RPM 32MB cache SATA II 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (ST31500541AS) - OEM
Rosewill Green Series 700W SLI/CrossFire Ready, 80 Plus Certified, Single 12V Rail, ATX12V v2.3/ EPS12V v2.91 (RG700-S12) - Retail
NZXT LEXA S Series Black Steel Mid ATX Tower Case (LEXS-001BK) - Retail
I'll probably get an HD5850/70 to go with it if I decide to bite. Any problems with any of the these parts that I should know about?
tabsina said:has anything gotten a higher score for the processor than the i7 at 7.4?
The only reason you'd be unable to not price match is the Avatar game. Take out Avatar and you can price match. The other items have no bearing on PMing the processor.Pachinko said:Damnit, I literally just finished clicking accept on this, now I gotta go cancel all of it and do it again I wish firestorm had replied 20 minutes ago
Okay, I got the edit window open so this should be easy enough to fix.
The 2 motherboards was my mistake in photoshop , I cut and pasted 3 images and must have accidently cut the same box twice.
Okay I wound cancelling the whole thing , what a pain this is. Now I have to go grab all those links again, also that PSU you linked can't be price matched because it's a surprise special.
I'm pretty sure that hard drive with free shipping is probably sold out again by now seeing as they only had 1 left earlier. ARGH.
Okay, another update- I can't get the heatsink from the link above there because doing so prevents me from price matching the processor.
Yeah, this has turned out to be a total waste of time, the free steam AVATAR, noctura heatsink and corsair memory are all cross promoted with the processor so I can't price match the processor unless I don't get any of that stuff. Dunno if it's a bug in the system or what.
Thanks for the input. Reading the reviews on Newegg seems, it seems the PSU is a little finicky. Luckily I found a video card that comes with a free PSU if anything happens to that one. :lolWallach said:I'm always a little wary of Rosewill PSUs. They seem to be all over the place. I use that same mobo and can vouch for it being quite awesome, the processor is excellent, and the RAM seems fine. 5900 RPM drive seems a bit slow, though, I would want a 7200 RPM unless you have a separate drive for games and such and are only using the 1.5TB for storage.
Did you try playing without the headset to see any performance difference? There is literally no way the keyboard could be causing a problem. But if you have sound being put through software rather than hardware it could be causing a negative framerate impact. So yes a sound card could help, possibly. As your headset is (should be) making 7.1 sound through software.Phloxy said:Any help?