Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

why? brand loyalty to Sony is weird, unless you really liked the walkman/discman back in the day.

Mostly because I hear "Those Sony TVs are pretty good" and I'm kind of taking that opinion as my own. That's why I come to you guys for actual opinions and facts.

Generally this years W series has been great for low input lag, so good for games. The W6 generally has good picture quality for the price, with good blacks.

However, I think the 32" W6 specifically (the one you are looking at) doesn't have such low input lag. I'll see if I can dig out the info on that. Still a good set though.


Edit: here you go. Bear in mind this is a strict website for reviews, they like things to be perfect. http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/kdl32w653-201310313413.htm

Sounds good, thanks for the site.
 
weird. that doesn't seem normal. I play on my ST30 all the time.

These 2013 Panasonic plasmas seem to have IR issues. I babied mine pretty much the first 300 hours but have the AC4 HUD burned in the upper left. It's fading but taking way too long to completely go away, even after frequent pixel flipper sessions.

In related news AC4 is a really beautiful game with the HUD off.
 
I was having doubts about buying the W905 instead of a VT60 plasma, but after reading all the IR issues I think I made the right choice.
The blacks may be slightly worse on the W905, but at least I have no worries when playing a game for hours.
 
Define months. Got IR from the start screen of FM5 which won't have been on the screen for longer than a minute. 50 hours later I can still see the outline of the McLaren P1.

Again, it varies but months could be 200hrs - 500hrs. My advice is, don't go looking for it. If it's impossible not to notice, that's a different story. I know this isn't what you want to hear, but If you're past your return window, you might as well just enjoy the TV and not worry about IR. Seems a lot of people upgrade their sets every 4-6 years anyways, myself included.

I am also worried about IR and I'm pissed off that more games don't give the option to go HUD-Less. I also hate the fact that more and more cable channels are putting as many static images imaginable on the screen during their shows. Eventually cable shows will look like Dax Sheppards TV from the movie Idiocracy, a tiny window inside of a ton of advertisements.
 
so, i've been running slides all week on my new s60. i get home tomorrow and it will be around the 120 hour mark.

does anyone have any recommendations for general care after the initial break-in period? this tv is basically going to for games and netflix. should i still be worried about taking breaks during gaming sessions of a few hours?
 
Everyone says the sony KDL-W900A is great and at 1600 on various websites is the lowest it's ever been. BUT sony has 2014 models coming in spring like the KDL-W800B I'm wondering if these models will be closer in price since 3d tvs are coming down in price. AKA should I jump or wait.
 
Everyone says the sony KDL-W900A is great and at 1600 on various websites is the lowest it's ever been. BUT sony has 2014 models coming in spring like the KDL-W800B I'm wondering if these models will be closer in price since 3d tvs are coming down in price. AKA should I jump or wait.
Those 2014 TVs won't have the deep black panel the w900 has, the 800 doubtfully has local dimming and it won't have triluminos. It will be a downgrade I think.
 
so, i've been running slides all week on my new s60. i get home tomorrow and it will be around the 120 hour mark.

does anyone have any recommendations for general care after the initial break-in period? this tv is basically going to for games and netflix. should i still be worried about taking breaks during gaming sessions of a few hours?

You should REALLY watch some Blu Rays on it, because that's where that particular set is going to shine. Games and Netflix are going to give you the least bang for your buck out of its strengths.

It's a FINE gaming TV and Netflix will look BETTER on it, but come on plz. Watch some Blu Rays.

Also you're over engineering your break in period. You can relax.
 
Mostly because I hear "Those Sony TVs are pretty good" and I'm kind of taking that opinion as my own. That's why I come to you guys for actual opinions and facts.



Sounds good, thanks for the site.

I'm actually not sure why you got two people upset about your post (guess people really love their Sasmung tv here).

However I wont go for W600. the W900 (triluminos screen) is a very good one (especially for gaming because of the low lag and it's fantastic screen) and what people say is good and best TV from Sony since ages.
 
Those 2014 TVs won't have the deep black panel the w900 has, the 800 doubtfully has local dimming and it won't have triluminos. It will be a downgrade I think.

You can't be sure of that. The W6 is low-mid range for Sony and has a deep black panel
 
I second btkadams request. Anything we should keep in mind during long gaming sessions?
I've got 160 hours on it now. Slowly started gaming with the HUD on, but still a bit insecure about watching 2.35:1 content.

[rant]
Come one Hollywood, we've got 16:9 screens. Give us 16:9 blu-rays not your weird 2.35:1/21:9 ratio.
[/rant]
Again, it varies but months could be 200hrs - 500hrs. My advice is, don't go looking for it. If it's impossible not to notice, that's a different story. I know this isn't what you want to hear, but If you're past your return window, you might as well just enjoy the TV and not worry about IR. Seems a lot of people upgrade their sets every 4-6 years anyways, myself included.

I am also worried about IR and I'm pissed off that more games don't give the option to go HUD-Less. I also hate the fact that more and more cable channels are putting as many static images imaginable on the screen during their shows. Eventually cable shows will look like Dax Sheppards TV from the movie Idiocracy, a tiny window inside of a ton of advertisements.
Thanks for the response. I agree with you that HUD should always be optional.
When I'm not looking I simply don't see it, as I said I need to have a full black or dark gray screen in order to notice it. So it's nothing big. But the thing that stings me a bit is that I expected them to be more resistant against IR. Especially from a TV that costs almost €2000.

Edit: Sometimes I see people recommending displaying a complete white screen to fight IR/uneven wear. What's the general conscious about that on Gaf? Wouldn't that just cause a gaint white IR on my screen?
 
However I wont go for W600. the W900 (triluminos screen) is a very good one (especially for gaming because of the low lag and it's fantastic screen) and what people say is good and best TV from Sony since ages.

I don't know about that last statement. The HX929 from 2011 was probably their best LCD ever.
 
Not really, the 950b has motionflow 480 instead of the 905's motionflow 960.
The 950b has passive 3D though, which I do prefer.

Alright I bit the bullet and ordered the KDL-W900a anyone have any great settings for blu rays and games?
At scene select choose "cinema" for the most accurate colors. Besides that turn off all eco settings.
 
Alright I bit the bullet and ordered the KDL-W900a anyone have any great settings for blu rays and games?

I've used CNet's settings but adjusted the backlight to make it higher and made the color temperature normal as I don't like the warm colors unless it's a dark room. Other than that, their settings seem to be pretty good to me. I ran some tests using Disney's WOW disc and CNet's settings gave me good results.

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-593595/sony-kdl-55w900a-picture-settings/
 
Not really, the 950b has motionflow 480 instead of the 905's motionflow 960.
The 950b has passive 3D though, which I do prefer.

At scene select choose "cinema" for the most accurate colors. Besides that turn off all eco settings.


I've used CNet's settings but adjusted the backlight to make it higher and made the color temperature normal as I don't like the warm colors unless it's a dark room. Other than that, their settings seem to be pretty good to me. I ran some tests using Disney's WOW disc and CNet's settings gave me good results.

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-593595/sony-kdl-55w900a-picture-settings/

Thanks guys
 
Have we gotten anything on the 950b though? I think that is surely an upgrade.
According to Sony's site, the 950 loses the Deep Black Panel, drops to 120Hz Panel from 240 (480MR vs 960)

The only thing added to the 950 is the XDR - Extended Dynamic Range for supposed better brightness and contrast. Also passive vs active 3D

I considered the 950 but to me it seems like a potential downgrade, plus I dont like the Wedge design.
 
The Sony W655 is the first display I've owned with supposed 24p playback. But I gotta say, I don't notice a single fucking difference when I set my TV to Cinema when playing blu-rays. I don't even know how they're supposed to do accurate 24hz playback when these screens are 60hz.
 
The Sony W655 is the first display I've owned with supposed 24p playback. But I gotta say, I don't notice a single fucking difference when I set my TV to Cinema when playing blu-rays. I don't even know how they're supposed to do accurate 24hz playback when these screens are 60hz.

cinema is really just a scene mode,nyou can change all the settings of each mode to be the same if you want. It's possible they all have standard settings that kick into 24p when playing blurays, so you wouldn't notice a difference.

The point is the screens aren't 60Hz panels. They are 24/35/30/50/60Hz panels, they can be natively driven at 24p
 
The Sony W655 is the first display I've owned with supposed 24p playback. But I gotta say, I don't notice a single fucking difference when I set my TV to Cinema when playing blu-rays. I don't even know how they're supposed to do accurate 24hz playback when these screens are 60hz.

My ST30 accomplishes this by displaying content at 48Hz, which causes intolerable flicker, or playing back content at 48 but still refreshing at 60, which causes tearing. A few do so by running at 96Hz, which is better.
 
cinema is really just a scene mode,nyou can change all the settings of each mode to be the same if you want. It's possible they all have standard settings that kick into 24p when playing blurays, so you wouldn't notice a difference.

I got 24p playback set to "on" on my PS3, Cine Motion(24p playback) set to auto on my TV(only available on cinema mode), going between game mode and cinema mode I can't see the difference. It looks great regardless.

The point is the screens aren't 60Hz panels. They are 24/35/30/50/60Hz panels, they can be natively driven at 24p

That's pretty interesting.
 
The Sony W655 is the first display I've owned with supposed 24p playback. But I gotta say, I don't notice a single fucking difference when I set my TV to Cinema when playing blu-rays. I don't even know how they're supposed to do accurate 24hz playback when these screens are 60hz.

You have to make sure your BluRay player is set to run @ 24fps. Make sure you're using HDMI. They're usually set to 60fps by default. Motion usually looks like shit when running at 24fps, that's how you can tell. Plasmas can do 72hz which looks a lot better, however 60hz doesn't look bad IMO.
 
I got 24p playback set to "on" on my PS3, Cine Motion(24p playback) set to auto on my TV(only available on cinema mode), going between game mode and cinema mode I can't see the difference. It looks great regardless.



That's pretty interesting.


Checking on mine.. You're right you can't set film mode in game scene, but when I play a bluray on the PS3 with my TV set to 'game', the TV info (hit the I+ button) shows 1080/24p 12 bit. I don't know if that is the display mode or simply saying what the input is though

There is auto (24p sync) scene too, which will switch to cinema mode whenever it detects a 24p signal which could be handy, although I don't know how 'auto' works out which scene to use for other content.
 
so, i've been running slides all week on my new s60. i get home tomorrow and it will be around the 120 hour mark.

does anyone have any recommendations for general care after the initial break-in period? this tv is basically going to for games and netflix. should i still be worried about taking breaks during gaming sessions of a few hours?


No, especially if you burn in,i've got the GT60 Plasma and it has <600hours ,I and my kids ;-) play for hours no IR. I think near half the time.
The GT60 is a Europe Version between the ST and VT.
My old S20 Plasma has nearly 20000 hours, game sessions over 20 hours no IR.
IR is a fault should be swaped, because most (99%) have no IR with 2013 Panasonic Plasmas.
I've calibrated it, it's a dream.
60hz Games are awesome.
:-)
Peace
 
Guys,

On the VT60, how can I output audio to my receiver via an HDMI when I am on antenna? Is that possible?

I've bought a 5 m long 1,99€ Fiber Optic kabel,( the TV has a optical output) connected it to my little sound receiver, it works perfect (in the audio menu let delay on auto chance audio code to PCM for old receiver)
With this combination you can hear everything like radio and the internet goodies trough the 'big' boxes of the receiver .
PS. don't buy thick shielded cables it,s light, it don't have any interferences ;-) don't need extra shielding.
Peace
 
I've bought a 5 m long 1,99€ Fiber Optic kabel,( the TV has a optical output) connected it to my little sound receiver, it works perfect (in the audio menu let delay on auto chance audio code to PCM for old receiver)
With this combination you can hear everything like radio and the internet goodies trough the 'big' boxes of the receiver .
PS. don't buy thick shielded cables it,s light, it don't have any interferences ;-) don't need extra shielding.
Peace

Oh, that's true. I have an optical cable laying around. I got the ARC working, but I am getting about a 1/4s delay on the audio that creates a visible issue with lip syncing. Optical might be easier.
 
You should REALLY watch some Blu Rays on it, because that's where that particular set is going to shine. Games and Netflix are going to give you the least bang for your buck out of its strengths.

It's a FINE gaming TV and Netflix will look BETTER on it, but come on plz. Watch some Blu Rays.

Also you're over engineering your break in period. You can relax.

Not at all. The S60 is fantastic for games and Netflix.
 
IR is a fault should be swaped, because most (99%) have no IR with 2013 Panasonic Plasmas.
:-)
Peace

95% of all stats are completely made up, including mine.

It's safe to say that 100% of all plasmas are capable of getting IR. Certainly some are more prone than others, but to say only 1% of all 2013 plasmas get IR is a ridiculous statement. How exactly would you swap out a discontinued Panasonic plasma that is next to impossible to find at this point ?

I'm sorry but your post is way off. There are quite a lot of people reporting IR with their 2013 plasmas. IR is not a flaw though, and it's not something you should be afraid of necessarily because it is completely normal with plasma tech, and it will almost always go away with time. Unless you have burn in, but that is pretty difficult to get with normal use. You'd have to leave a menu screen up or HUD on for 10+ Straight hours.
 
Set up my 55w900 this morning, good god. First off, feel like I won the lottery. Barely any noticeable clouding whatsoever, a nearly perfect set with excellent screen uniformity. Viewed several movies in 2.35 AR and the blacks were pitch black.

(...)

PQ for movies is stunning, set it to impulse and the motion rivals what I've seen on competing Panny plasmas. Incredibly smooth, filmic, and little to no motion blur. Coupled with amazing colors and rich blacks, this TV really feels like the best of both worlds :D
Okay, so I've been without access to a PC so couldn't reply before, so this is a very late reply, but I wanted to address it somehow.

People judging uniformity on W900A sets through the black bars are doing it wrong (I don't know whether that's the case or not) because they have dynamic local dimming; which means 2.40:1 (letterbox) and 4:3 (pillarbox) will be really black because they are not being lit, that doesn't mean their blacks in a practical situation are comparable to modern Panasonic or Samsung plasmas. In fact, it's barely matching (read: not matching) a regular Panasonic series 10 (S10/G10/V10) with factory levels of black, but the bars are "blacker", only the bars, a full frame high range image (with both "blacks" and brighter colors) won't display such results so it's never worthy of the "pitch black" monicker... but the black bars help still in creating an illusion as it's less noticeable in the middle of "detail". Still, pop in the last Harry Potter movie (which is the "goto" stress test for that) and see. :)

If you were to see that set next to a modern plasma though (or just owning that modern top range plasma), you'd notice it big time due to the depth of the image going on. I know I do, and I had plasmas with lower blacks than the W900 at home.

It also doesn't mean the screen is not full of light leakage/clouding, just that it disguises it so you need to poke further through other means, I'm kinda sure you did, or are going through the process of doing so, but I felt it should be said because of the way it might sound to others that want to get picky with their purchase. The black "kuro black" bars are part of the package, but that's not saying much other than yeah, it looks good (but it's also hiding stuff if the panel happens to be a "stinker").

I really don't think motion is up there from what I've seen of it, Sony needs to pull 120 Hz strobing before we can even consider the hypothesis of diminishing returns, not to mention the method increases motion blur a little for the time being, something the plasmas never faltered and helped a lot with motion.

But it looks good and it is very commendable seeing they're the only ones doing it as of now.
 
Okay, so I've been without access to a PC so couldn't reply before, so this is a very late reply, but I wanted to address it somehow.

People judging uniformity on W900A sets through the black bars are doing it wrong (I don't know whether that's the case or not) because they have dynamic local dimming; which means 2.40:1 (letterbox) and 4:3 (pillarbox) will be really black because they are not being lit, that doesn't mean their blacks in a practical situation are comparable to modern Panasonic or Samsung plasmas. In fact, it's barely matching (read: not matching) a regular Panasonic series 10 (S10/G10/V10) with factory levels of black, but the bars are "blacker", only the bars, a full frame high range image (with both "blacks" and brighter colors) won't display such results so it's never worthy of the "pitch black" monicker... but the black bars help still in creating an illusion as it's less noticeable in the middle of "detail". Still, pop in the last Harry Potter movie (which is the "goto" stress test for that) and see. :)

If you were to see that set next to a modern plasma though (or just owning that modern top range plasma), you'd notice it big time due to the depth of the image going on. I know I do, and I had plasmas with lower blacks than the W900 at home.

It also doesn't mean the screen is not full of light leakage/clouding, just that it disguises it so you need to poke further through other means, I'm kinda sure you did, or are going through the process of doing so, but I felt it should be said because of the way it might sound to others that want to get picky with their purchase. The black "kuro black" bars are part of the package, but that's not saying much other than yeah, it looks good (but it's also hiding stuff if the panel happens to be a "stinker").

I really don't think motion is up there from what I've seen of it, Sony needs to pull 120 Hz strobing before we can even consider the hypothesis of diminishing returns, not to mention the method increases motion blur a little for the time being, something the plasmas never faltered and helped a lot with motion.

But it looks good and it is very commendable seeing they're the only ones doing it as of now.
I have seen it next to a vt and zt. Blacks on those we're better but the blacks on the 900 were clearly better than any other LCD and close enough to the vt for me. Only reason I didn't get the vt is for gaming.
 
Yeah, The W650 and W900 are not the only LCD's I currently recommend for nothing (and a few pages back I expressed fear for downgraded sets in 2014, specially for the W6's which I don't think it's unfounded).

I really don't think they hold a candle to a VT20 with factory level black in overall image quality, let alone a VT60.

But they deserve lots of praise for achieving what they're achieving there, it's not just the black level, lots of VA panels are hitting that level as of now and even a little lower... It's the overall package, price and even the inherent respect for the consumer that shines through, really.

Color quantization going on in there also seems above average seeing LCD's are more limited than plasmas in that area by quite a bit (and Sony doesn't manufacture the panel, so no secrer sauce there), certainly felt like the set that evidenced that the less... and that involves a lot of work, specially in a non-4k set that isn't doing aditive dithering on 2K scaling via look up table. (the only thing 4K brings to the table for LCD's at optimal viewing distance, really... And none are doing it as of now)

... I'm spoiled from lots of little things right now to agree past the fact that for LCD's they're really outstanding, I mean seeing a VT60 and a ZT60 on a store is one thing owning one (or using one in a dar room) is another. That thing destroyed the notion of IQ on everything I previously owned, and I own some good shit if I say so myself, shame I can't afford a GT60 for my gaming room, it's all I can say.

I hope they keep pushing that LCD tech, but the fact there's virtually no competition in the areas they're delivering makes eminent leap jumps unlikely.
 
Theres no chance they'll make a 42" for the US. I saw 1 and it's nearly 900 bucks. Even a top-end LED doesn't go over 500 in that size. The W9s impressed me, but, why the fuck are they somuch more expensive then anything else? Even the W6 32" are super expensive.
 
Theres no chance they'll make a 42" for the US. I saw 1 and it's nearly 900 bucks. Even a top-end LED doesn't go over 500 in that size. The W9s impressed me, but, why the fuck are they somuch more expensive then anything else? Even the W6 32" are super expensive.

dat sony tax

I got my 42W655 on xmas sale, cost me around $570. With Sony you really must wait for that kind of thing.
 
95% of all stats are completely made up, including mine.

It's safe to say that 100% of all plasmas are capable of getting IR. Certainly some are more prone than others, but to say only 1% of all 2013 plasmas get IR is a ridiculous statement. How exactly would you swap out a discontinued Panasonic plasma that is next to impossible to find at this point ?

I'm sorry but your post is way off. There are quite a lot of people reporting IR with their 2013 plasmas. IR is not a flaw though, and it's not something you should be afraid of necessarily because it is completely normal with plasma tech, and it will almost always go away with time. Unless you have burn in, but that is pretty difficult to get with normal use. You'd have to leave a menu screen up or HUD on for 10+ Straight hours.

Sry my English isn't perfect.

I agree with you.
Because I confused IR with Burn in :-)
Damn embarrassing.

I just talk about 2013 Panas and the S20 Series, not 2012 VT50 or Samsung Plasmas. Samsung tends to be (last year) nearly IR and Burn in free etc.
Nearly ! I just wanted to say that there are defect Plasmas which can get aburn in within hours, but these should be swapped (Panasonic does this).
A mild IR was seen on my old S20 after <4 hours of gameplay .... But only if a go very near (50cm) to the TV and made a blue background.
It disappeared after some minutes.
But as you say ,mild ! IR must by a accepted on a Plasma.
As a gamer I just would take a Plasma that don't tend to IR like the 2013 Panasonic , with panel brightness on middle ( no logic , low brightness trends to IR and Burn in )

Even if a model is discontinued the Manufacture need some for repairs.
A manufacture have to swap it in the next two years because of guaranty. Every ''normal'' firm need a good amount of their products for repair purpose.
 
Oh, that's true. I have an optical cable laying around. I got the ARC working, but I am getting about a 1/4s delay on the audio that creates a visible issue with lip syncing. Optical might be easier.

In my case I let in the ''audio delay'' menu of the Pana everything on ''auto'' and it's perfect lip sync.
You also can choose the needed ..ms by hand.
Perhaps that can be used in your case, even without optical out, try to put the 'audio delay' to circa 30 ms by hand, in the audio menu.

Good luck!
Peace

PS. I have no extra ARC, I have the low cost resolution :-)
An old Music Receiver with no optical-in but good boxes. I bought a little box (16€) optic-in to analog-out , and a optical cable.
All TV goes over a SKY receiver to the HDMI 1 , all consoles go over a 5-HDMI switch to the HDMI 2, I like to listen to the You tube app and vimeo of the TV.
All audio out goes over the optical out of the TV to my little Receiver ;-)

In the future I buy something like this little Denon Ceol with air play, internet radio,DLNA,optic-in and 2x65watt -enough for my dream boxes from Nubert, so I get a Perfect cheap 2.1 system for everything I need ;-)
 
dat sony tax

I got my 42W655 on xmas sale, cost me around $570. With Sony you really must wait for that kind of thing.

maybe it's less expensive elsewhere. The only 42" was on amazon and it's super expensive. I just settled for this years FALD Vizios. I saw the IQ at best buy and they looked good.
 
[rant]
Come one Hollywood, we've got 16:9 screens. Give us 16:9 blu-rays not your weird 2.35:1/21:9 ratio.
[/rant]
Actually, TV manufacturers should give us 2.35:1 television sets. Don't tell me you don't like it when the curtains open in a movie theater and the image widens from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1. Cinemascope is supposed to be wider than 16:9, not less tall.
 
Actually, TV manufacturers should give us 2.35:1 television sets. Don't tell me you don't like it when the curtains open in a movie theater and the image widens from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1. Cinemascope is supposed to be wider than 16:9, not less tall.

It actually freaks me the hell out that 2.35:1 displays are coming out commercially. I've seen a few monitors in store, not sure if TVs are commercially available at that aspect ratio yet, but they wouldn't be very nice to watch 16:9 content on.
 
Actually, TV manufacturers should give us 2.35:1 television sets. Don't tell me you don't like it when the curtains open in a movie theater and the image widens from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1. Cinemascope is supposed to be wider than 16:9, not less tall.

Oh yes, 4x3 content would look wonderful on a 2.35:1 TV. Especially for those that like to stretch to fill the screen. Also, every show on TV is either 1.78:1 or 1.33:1, the average consumer would not like the fact that they just bought a huge tv and now a good portion of the screen isn't even getting used. Trust me I work in cable TV/internet, a majority of people have no fricken clue what a native aspect ratio is, all they care about is that the picture fills up the the entire screen.

I would really like there to be a standard, I wouldn't mind it being 2.35:1. Once all the cable, movie, and game developers jump on board, then I might buy a 2.35:1 TV. Whoever I do love watching classic movies, so I guess I could keep my 1.78:1 plasma for those.
 
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