Do you guys think it's better to buy an old/used micro SD card on eBay, or is it safe to order a new 1 or 2gb Sandisk on Amazon?Same thing, remembered about my 2GB card in my R4 from back in the day. For some reason that worked.
Do you guys think it's better to buy an old/used micro SD card on eBay, or is it safe to order a new 1 or 2gb Sandisk on Amazon?Same thing, remembered about my 2GB card in my R4 from back in the day. For some reason that worked.
Do you guys think it's better to buy an old/used micro SD card on eBay, or is it safe to order a new 1 or 2gb Sandisk on Amazon?
If you use a splitter with no amplification, would the picture be darker since the voltage would be halved?
I have no idea, I'm completely new to this.
Hey guys, I'm looking for a cheap way to capture my SNES video/audio while maintaining RGB output onto my monitor. Don't really care if the capture ends up being composite or s-video.
So the current path is SNES > SCART cable (male) > 4 BNC adapter (scart female to bnc male) > Monitor.
I'm at a loss as to where I should split the signal, and where to go from there. I've looked for scart splitters, and the only one I can find is 1 male to 2 female, so I'd need a way to get the SNES male scart cable to female, but that adapter doesn't seem easy to find. Maybe I'm missing something obvious. Anyone have experience/ideas?
edit: Here's the splitter I found:
Would it be possible to plug the SNES into one female, the BNC adapter to the male, and then this:
into the second female? Would I be splitting the signal with this setup?
If you're using a PVM or BVM, don't split the signal at all. Output from the monitor and reverse the connection from BNC back to to SCART. You'll get perfect lossless quality in every way.
what does it mean if you press power on the PVM and it doesn't turn on and there's an orange light at that top? is that some kind of error code?
You won't get lossless quality unless you're running an amplified BNC to SCART cable, since the output from the monitor doesn't have the +5V. I tried to do the same thing and had no luck (picture was in black and white).
You won't get lossless quality unless you're running an amplified BNC to SCART cable, since the output from the monitor doesn't have the +5V. I tried to do the same thing and had no luck (picture was in black and white).
That's odd. I used BNC cables to output from one PVM to another and then to a Panasonic broadcast monitor and saw no difference in the picture between the three monitors. The two secondary monitors were being feed a pure RGB connection through BNC cables that I acquired.
That's odd. I used BNC cables to output from one PVM to another and then to a Panasonic broadcast monitor and saw no difference in the picture between the three monitors. The two secondary monitors were being feed a pure RGB connection through BNC cables that I acquired.
If you're using a PVM or BVM, don't split the signal at all. Output from the monitor and reverse the connection from BNC back to to SCART. You'll get perfect lossless quality in every way.
You won't get lossless quality unless you're running an amplified BNC to SCART cable, since the output from the monitor doesn't have the +5V. I tried to do the same thing and had no luck (picture was in black and white).
I recommend a SCART signal distributor/splitter like the Shinbybow SB-3715. I use it to run signal to 2 PVMs, my OSSC, and my capture box simultaneously and don't have any image quality/signal issues.
BNC to SCART isn't a 1:1 mapping though. BNC has RGBS and the respective grounds. You would still need some external voltage source to define the signal for SCART. I believe SCART uses a voltage source to determine whether you are using RGB, composite or whatever since SCART can carry all sorts of signal types. That's probably what he is referring to.
This is from monitor to monitor, though.
When converting back from BNC to SCART, you need amplification.
What's the difference between an amplified and non-amplified BNC to SCART Cable? Like is there a visual way to tell?
Not unless you have access to the geometry controls on your CRT, it sounds like it's overscan.Hi all, I have a couple of questions:
1. If I play my NTSC copy of FFVII on my PAL CRT TV via Scart, the right hand side of some of the image is slightly cut off. Adjusting the image horizontally doesn't help, is there anything I can do?
NTSC is not universally better, it all depends on circumstances. Typically they are better because they were designed as NTSC, but there are exceptions. On SNES for example PAL games always have music full speed, first party games mostly have the image stretched to not be squashed, and some are speed adjusted to match the NTSC versions. And best of all because the games are running technically (if not actually if they are adjusted) slower, they have a lot less slowdown at 50Hz, because the SNES CPU isn't hit as hard.2. I have a PAL version of Super Metroid. I know NTSC games are universally better, but is this version good enough to not worry about it and enjoy it?
Not unless you have access to the geometry controls on your CRT, it sounds like it's overscan.
NTSC is not universally better, it all depends on circumstances. Typically they are better because they were designed as NTSC, but there are exceptions. On SNES for example PAL games always have music full speed, first party games mostly have the image stretched to not be squashed, and some are speed adjusted to match the NTSC versions. And best of all because the games are running technically (if not actually if they are adjusted) slower, they have a lot less slowdown at 50Hz, because the SNES CPU isn't hit as hard.
Now for Super Metroid, it is actually a decent PAL conversion and all the above applies, except I hate the forced poorly translated German/French subtitles.
Yep PS1 (and most PS2) PAL is actually abominable and close to universally worse. Outside of Psygnosis and a few others typically there was no PAL conversion at all, almost every single game was squashed and 20% slower.As for the PAL version, that's interesting, seems like I generalised too much (I've only really experience with the PS1, where most NTSC version do seem improved). From what you've said it looks like I'd be fine with the PAL version, despite the subtitles.
Yep PS1 (and most PS2) PAL is actually abominable and close to universally worse. Outside of Psygnosis and a few others typically there was no PAL conversion at all, almost every single game was squashed and 20% slower.
2. I have a PAL version of Super Metroid. I know NTSC games are universally better, but is this version good enough to not worry about it and enjoy it?
Nope, Hz is controlled in software on PS1.But doesnt this mean that the games can just be played on ntsc hardware and be fine?
yeah that's the other issue, balance can be thrown off by the speed adjustments. The most famous example being Kirby's Adventure.You get to do the Bomb Torizo skip!
Honestly there are a lot of differences, as with all PAL games, they have to change the speed of everything to account for 50hz. I don't remember all the specifics for SM, but I believe the only thing they corrected the speed for is Samus's movement. So everything else is 5/6 slower. That's not to say it's worse, or even that you would notice if you haven't played the game a lot. But it's certainly quite different from the NTSC version.
Nope, Hz is controlled in software on PS1..
Does that mean NTSC games always run at 60Hz on PAL PS1 consoles? I have one of those import adapters with a spring to swap disks and never realized this if that's true. Although I mostly played RPGs and didn't have a frame of reference for the games I played.Nope, Hz is controlled in software on PS1.
Yes, certainly that's how it works with a mod chip.Does that mean NTSC games always run at 60Hz on PAL PS1 consoles? I have one of those import adapters with a spring to swap disks and never realized this if that's true. Although I mostly played RPGs and didn't have a frame of reference for the games I played.
So, I have a framemeister and love it. I recently got an LG B6 OLED to replace my W800B and when trying it with the upscaler, I get no hdmi sound, where with the Sony I DO get sound. I tested this with an RGB modded SNES jr.
Anyone with an XRGB use this TV?
You need a 240P capable monitor for 240P consoles, which you already have but would be nice to get the 20inch version.
And then a separate monitor for 480P. I have this set up but instead of being ripped off for a 20L5 or a BVM D series I bought a PC CRT monitor. I use the OSSC or my mayflash VGA adapter with it.
Xbox and Dreamcast looks great but IMO GameCube/Wii looks better on my PVM on RGB. Haven't tried PS2 on it yet.
My monitor cost me £30, mayflash was £10.
Has anyone got any tips concerning ps2 480i output and an hdtv?, I recently picked up some brand new oem ps3 component cables (amazing) and while my 4k bravia does a serviceable job with the progressive signal it produces some horrendous deinterlacing and scaling artifacts at 480i. I have been able to somewhat sidestep this issue using the homebrew program GSM and forcing games to output in 1080i, but it isn't compatible with all titles and it does not scale the image so I end up with a smaller screen area than I would like.
I am currently on the waiting list for the OSSC and the framemeister is (especially now) a bit rich for my blood, are there any other alternatives?
Yes, certainly that's how it works with a mod chip.
240p game, so the PS1 would have been sending 256p at 50Hz. Set the FM to output at 50Hz and have another go?Hmm, I just tried Castlevania Chronicles (Pal) on an ntsc PSOne with a modchip, and for some reason the framemeister just lost the signal after the title screen. Is this a normal problem? I have played pal Resident Evil 1 and Strider 2 on it before.
Hmm, I just tried Castlevania Chronicles (Pal) on an ntsc PSOne with a modchip, and for some reason the framemeister just lost the signal after the title screen. Is this a normal problem? I have played pal Resident Evil 1 and Strider 2 on it before.
Yeah it's just a port. There's a mode that's rebalanced with a re-done (more colourful) main sprite, and it offers three separate audio modules to choose from.I have Castlevania X68000. This is a port of that right? I like it a lot but it's ridiculously hard at times. I haven't been able to finish it yet. Thankfully it has saves and infinite continues.
Yeah it's just a port. There's a mode that's rebalanced with a re-done (more colourful) main sprite, and it offers three separate audio modules to choose from.
240p game, so the PS1 would have been sending 256p at 50Hz. Set the FM to output at 50Hz and have another go?
I have Castlevania X68000. This is a port of that right? I like it a lot but it's ridiculously hard at times. I haven't been able to finish it yet. Thankfully it has saves and infinite continues.
The Vita TV takes whatever the Vita would output (960x544) and then scales it to 720p. I'm sure you can imagine how that effects image quality.
Get a 3000 or Go for playing on a TV. 3000 for the form factor, Go for compatibility with a dual shock.
2000, 3000 and PSP Go have component out.Alternatively, what PSP model should I look for if I'd like to output to a CRT? Do any of them have component-out? I've never had an original PSP and have only owned a Vita. I'd probably pick up a 2000 or a 3000.
2000, 3000 and PSP Go have component out.
720x480.What resolution(s) are output?
720x480.
Also, when playing PS1 games, it outputs perfect full-screen 240p.
With 272 active lines (windowboxed with black bars).
Also, when playing PS1 games, it outputs perfect full-screen 240p.
How does it handle games that swap between 240p and 480i like Chrono Cross?