Shin Johnpv
Member
That sucks about personal life getting in the way, I think I knew that. I hope what ever was going on is settled and for the better now.
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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!
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NormalFish
Banned
well I've now used both my SFC and Wii on the OSSC. Everything seems compatible with my monitor, still, so it seems like Asus computer monitors are the way to go if you're looking for something with more or less flawless compatibility.
The shortcomings of the Framemeister are made extremely obvious by the more or less flawless 960p output of the OSSC. Gamecube games look extremely clean.
The shortcomings of the Framemeister are made extremely obvious by the more or less flawless 960p output of the OSSC. Gamecube games look extremely clean.
davidwhangchoi
Member
damn need to find a rgb guy for nes...
BocoDragon
or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
I dropped the heavy coin on a gscartsw during the last pre-order round. Lots of money and seemingly expensive for just a switch, but I need it in my setup. I am this close to having the dream setup of everything (RGB, component, HDMI) accessible at the touch of my phone's Harmony app.
I might even add an Amazon Echo so that it's available by voice command.
I'm looking for one too. I was bugging the Retrofixes guy this last month, but it looks like he's busy for weeks and months.
I might even add an Amazon Echo so that it's available by voice command.
I'm looking for one too. I was bugging the Retrofixes guy this last month, but it looks like he's busy for weeks and months.
Shin Johnpv
Member
Voultar, dude does amazing work https://twitter.com/Voultar_Modshop
Also I'll say it again you guys should consider the HiDefNES kit over the RGB one. if you're not going to a CRT.
Laevateinn
Member
Being able to turn on a system without then going to the switch and figuring out what button to press makes gscartsw more than worth the price of entry.
Kawika
Member
I agree completely. I wish his comp switch had 2 outputs though. Its a shame that it doesn't because it could have solved an issue I was having.
Now I go from my device to my component switch to my bvm to my xrgb but sometimes I would prefer to skip the xrgb and go direct to the HD TV instead. If I had 2 outputs I could have another source feeding into my HDTV without having to unplug it from the xrgb.
Triforce141
Member
Can someone help me regarding Everdrives, I wanted to compare prices between Krikzz and StoneAgeGamer, but I went as far as the part where Krikzz wanted me to put in my payment info for eServices. I closed out of it because I wanted to go with StoneAge instead; nothing was paid, but still got the order confirmation email from Krikzz (Status is on "Processing in progress.")
Already sent an email requesting a cancellation, but still want to know if I should do anything and wait for a response from them, or simply don't pay and the order won't go through.
On another note, I noticed Voultar updated his SNES Mini RGB Install Service page saying that people should send only their console, wasn't there yesterday. Probably did that because of a conversation I had with him, almost sent him my SNES and power cable.
Already sent an email requesting a cancellation, but still want to know if I should do anything and wait for a response from them, or simply don't pay and the order won't go through.
On another note, I noticed Voultar updated his SNES Mini RGB Install Service page saying that people should send only their console, wasn't there yesterday. Probably did that because of a conversation I had with him, almost sent him my SNES and power cable.
Just wait for a response. He checks his emails and will help out.
OSSC-gaf, I'm experiencing a very odd occurrence with my Japanese Saturn, specifically with Virtua Fighter 2. Basically, the interlaced 2D elements on screen - the life bars, the fighters' names etc. - leave a temporary burn-in on my monitor. It goes away pretty quickly, but it's definitely noticeable, after a complete playthrough.
I wonder what's causing it, and if it could potentially damage the monitor, on the long run...
I wonder what's causing it, and if it could potentially damage the monitor, on the long run...
Hey guys,
Just x-posting this from the VGP forums I just made a post at. It's how you can create a bootable SD to update your OSSC Firmware - using a Mac! Although not a full-on guide per-se, it can be used for Raspberry pi images etc. as well. I had 100% success using this method.
Just x-posting this from the VGP forums I just made a post at. It's how you can create a bootable SD to update your OSSC Firmware - using a Mac! Although not a full-on guide per-se, it can be used for Raspberry pi images etc. as well. I had 100% success using this method.
JDH said:
Personally I like using the Wii U for convenience but the big draw for using a Wii is the fact the Wii will do native 240p for the VC titles.
NormalFish
Banned
i need to actually remember what all the different OSSC settings do, since some of them reduce the artifacts im getting with my snes and wii pretty significantly. down the rabbit hole once again...
Beer Monkey
Member
The Analogue NT just became a game changer; once Kevtris adds consoles like 2600, 7800, Colecovision to the cores, that's money saved for me on video mods. Gameboy support, Gameboy color support, cartridge and game save dumper, et al. Feels like a steal. He's even talking controller and cart adapters.
http://atariage.com/forums/topic/242970-fpga-based-videogame-system/?p=3687219
http://atariage.com/forums/topic/242970-fpga-based-videogame-system/?p=3687219
It really has taken a turn to what I really wanted to see from FPGA clones.
Wii is better at handling 480p.
Wii U has problems with that since BC is not entirely native, some of it is emulated (not quite but close enough). So the quality of it's output depends on firmware. And Nintendo likes to do bizzare things with retro games. Adding blur filters, no 1:1 mapping etc.
If you're perfectionist and absolutely have to have the best picture possible, go with Wii.
Personally i'm using Wii U set to 480i/576i and it looks fine, but can't really compare since i sold my gamecube as soon as nintendont became an option. Never had a Wii so can't compare with that either (even from memory).
Usefull links that compare the two:
Link, Link
StevieWhite
Member
Cross posting from RetroGAF... just wanted to share a very positive experience I had with Behar Bros. -
So about a year and a half ago I bought a Toro. Worked great, no problems - a few weeks back, the cable that connects the Toro to the DC broke. Knowing my warranty period had long passed, I shot them an e-mail asking if it would be possible to just purchase a new cable, not a whole new box.
Well, they just responded by asking for my shipping dress, and lo and behold, I got a package from Turkey with a new cable, free of charge. Talk about awesome customer service.
So about a year and a half ago I bought a Toro. Worked great, no problems - a few weeks back, the cable that connects the Toro to the DC broke. Knowing my warranty period had long passed, I shot them an e-mail asking if it would be possible to just purchase a new cable, not a whole new box.
Well, they just responded by asking for my shipping dress, and lo and behold, I got a package from Turkey with a new cable, free of charge. Talk about awesome customer service.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
Same thing happened to me, while it's nice they replaced it, I don't really have any confidence that this one isn't going to break like the first one did. The console never moves and this cable just stays plugged in yet that was enough for it to break somehow.
ironjoe989
Member
So unluckily my Famicom AV (that I had rgb modded 1.5 years ago) has suddenly started to have a green tinge on all video. Everything looks to be connected on the top of the mod, so I'm at a bit of a loss.
My understanding is that its not likely a cable issue. I been using a SNES csync cable that works fine on my SNES mini. The system has not been moved since I put it there. Does anyone have any ideas? Would a different cable help? Or should I look on the bottom of the motherboard? Blargh, what a sad day.
My understanding is that its not likely a cable issue. I been using a SNES csync cable that works fine on my SNES mini. The system has not been moved since I put it there. Does anyone have any ideas? Would a different cable help? Or should I look on the bottom of the motherboard? Blargh, what a sad day.
The NT's FPGA should be powerful enough to 16-bit systems...right? I think the MiST is less capable but has Amiga, PC Engine and I believe some folks have been working on a Genesis core.
.kevtris said:
Thanks. Too bad, but still cool about those older systems it can run. Really does make the hefty price tag not seem so bad.
Although I am a little surprised by his statement because the MiST runs on an (older?) Altera Cyclone III vs the NT's Cyclone V. Must be the RAM thing he mentioned.
What does the NT have?
Picked up a Hyundai Super Fami. Kinda like a souvenir from my two years of living in Seoul/Korea and wanted to hit the Seoul retro art one last time before leaving. It was either this or a Samsung MD but went for the Super ComBoy. Figured RetroGAF might get a kick out of it.
Sad to read about personal stuff for Baphomet, really hope its sorted out now. Just wanted to add that I got my RGB-modded AV Famicom from him, and he was absolutely fantastic to deal with, and even did some extra stuff for me for free that he could easily have asked quite a bit of money for. So my impression of him are excellent.
TheShinobi
Neo Member
It looks like the Scart cable I ordered for my Genesis is missing pins, not sure on how to upload pictures yet, but does anyone know if its supposed to be missing pins or not?
Edit: Here it is if it shows up
Edit: Here it is if it shows up
speedlolita
Member
It isn't necessary to leave unused pins in the plug. Every official SCART lead I own is like that, besides the Xbox one.
A console should only really need around 7 pins to be fully operational. R, G, B, composite, GND, L audio & R audio.
A console should only really need around 7 pins to be fully operational. R, G, B, composite, GND, L audio & R audio.
Agreed on all the bolded. Similar experiences here.
Kawika
Member
In light of the Kevtris update I am selling my original Analogue NT. Its modded with HDMI but all you need is Tim's nes rgb kit to swap it over. I know this probably should go in the buy sell thread but this is probably the group that would be most interested. If you want to rgb mod it, i have been in contact with the Analogue team and they basically were trying to facilitate my rgb mod for me.
Now, for everyone who has been wary about defective units of the NT. I got the golden ticket NT. It has worked with everything i have thrown at it and I honestly couldn't be happier with the HDMI mod. I just want to play nes games on my bvm and all of my nes consoles besides the NT are composite.
PM me if you are interested
Now, for everyone who has been wary about defective units of the NT. I got the golden ticket NT. It has worked with everything i have thrown at it and I honestly couldn't be happier with the HDMI mod. I just want to play nes games on my bvm and all of my nes consoles besides the NT are composite.
PM me if you are interested
It can have mising pins. Not all are used so there's no need for them.
From the picture it looks like all important ones are there, so it should be ok.
If it's RGB cable you can open it up and check if pins 7,11,15 have wires connected to them.
There's diagram od SCART and JP-21 connectors in the first post of this thread so you can check which pin is what.
drhankmccoyphd
Member
I was playing around with my PVM 20m2u the other day and I noticed that the top of the screen looks kinda like the image is being squished under a rolling pin. As I understand it this is a geometry issue. Is there a way to adjust the geometry within the service menu? I'm definitely not going to open up the case. But I've also read changing the settings can do more harm than good. It's not totally distracting but it would be nice to correct it.
Hey guys, I need some advice from a retro whizz.
I want to play my old PS1 games on my PS2 for which I have component cables. I hooked them up on my Elgato Capture Device from which it goes into my TV via HDMI. Unfortunately my HDTV won't support 240p or SD signals on its HDMI input. So black display there.
Now I've heard there are upscalers that convert the signal low resolution signals into a 720p or a 1080p one, readable for my TV. The question is, does component cables have a visibly better image quality than RGB on PS1 games? I'm asking because there are also Scart/RGB to HDMI converters which a less expensive than YPbPr to HDMI. If it doesn't make a difference on PS1 games I'd rather get the cheaper option.
I want to play my old PS1 games on my PS2 for which I have component cables. I hooked them up on my Elgato Capture Device from which it goes into my TV via HDMI. Unfortunately my HDTV won't support 240p or SD signals on its HDMI input. So black display there.
Now I've heard there are upscalers that convert the signal low resolution signals into a 720p or a 1080p one, readable for my TV. The question is, does component cables have a visibly better image quality than RGB on PS1 games? I'm asking because there are also Scart/RGB to HDMI converters which a less expensive than YPbPr to HDMI. If it doesn't make a difference on PS1 games I'd rather get the cheaper option.
Does your TV not have component? Theres a chance that it can support 240p via component. If it works, forget about the cheapo scaler.
Yes, it does. My TV also have a scart input. However, the PS1 resolution via component isn't supported neither.
PumpkinSpice
Banned
Out of curiosity, what's your TV brand/model?
Press Enter + Degauss to enter the service menu. Download the service manual and check out page 17, the service map which shows all the settings you can scroll through. I forget exactly which ones, but 1-30 have the geometry settings. Write down the existing values before you change anything. I think you have to press Degauss to permanently save settings before you exit.
http://neohyphengeo.com/PVM20M2_SM_SONY_EN.pdf
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?248672-PVM-Service-Manuals-20M2MDU-and-others
This describes what some of the settings do:
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Awesome, thank you!
IrishNinja
Member
wait what's going on with my dude bapho? he's been gone for a minute, figured he was just busy
Some folks mentioned having hiccups with service or difficulty getting a response. I mentioned I did too but cut him slack because he was going through some personal stuff last year (won't go into out of privacy/respect). Also he has a regular f/t job which keeps him really busy. That's something I think is important to remember.. most modders do this stuff in their spare time.
Tempted to sell my Hi-Def modded AV Famicom...
when i had an HDMI cable break, it was very sudden. no image came in and glitches showed up when i moved the cable. then i unplugged it and noticed the actual plug was broken at the part that joins with the plastic. had to buy a new one.
i guess that's an advantage of digital. with analog cables is a lot harder to tell your cable is having problems.
That's where I'm at as well. Very tempted to sell my RGB AV Fami & N8 and pick up the mini.
JyriKilpelainen
Neo Member
Hey everyone!
I started re-collecting retro games a while back and last weekend I managed to buy a Bang & Olufsen MX7000 with Beolink 1000 for 50€. Spent the weekend learning more about the tv, it's service menu and settings. At the moment, the picture is pretty good but on RGB it's shifted to left so I have to tweak it. Currently waiting to get a Wii RGB Scart in the mail so I can fully utilize the 240p Test Suite. One thing that's impressive is the sound quality. Definitely the best speakers on any CRT I've experienced so far.
Here's a (bit blurry) picture of the beauty:
https://twitter.com/JyriKilpelainen/status/828213672640204801
I started re-collecting retro games a while back and last weekend I managed to buy a Bang & Olufsen MX7000 with Beolink 1000 for 50€. Spent the weekend learning more about the tv, it's service menu and settings. At the moment, the picture is pretty good but on RGB it's shifted to left so I have to tweak it. Currently waiting to get a Wii RGB Scart in the mail so I can fully utilize the 240p Test Suite. One thing that's impressive is the sound quality. Definitely the best speakers on any CRT I've experienced so far.
Here's a (bit blurry) picture of the beauty:
https://twitter.com/JyriKilpelainen/status/828213672640204801
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