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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

D

DOT DASH DOT

Member
Resident_UA said:
There's literally nothing you would need 100% white window for which is THAT bright unless you were trying to get a sun tan from your TV. These are just relative measures.
Click to expand...

I was waiting for it lol, what it means is because a 100% window shows a TV's lowest brightness, it will only get brighter each smaller window size; 75 50% etc, so the highlights will be bloody bright, the 902's lowest point being 880 and it's peak 1300, essentially giving you a really bright range no matter the window.
 
R

Resident_UA

Member
DOT DASH DOT said:
I was waiting for it lol, what it means is because a 100% window shows a TV's lowest brightness, it will only get brighter each smaller window size; 75 50% etc, so the highlights will be bloody bright, the 902's lowest point being 880 and it's peak 1300, essentially giving you a really bright range no matter the window.
Click to expand...

All that means is that if you show a white rectangle on 100% the screen it will be that bright. Not really sure what the rest of your comment is meant to say, but at least that's the way rtings measures 100% Window. I don't even know why you are picking a fight over this.

Here's a link to their explanation if you are unsure: http://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/picture-quality/peak-brightness#comparison_463
 
D

DOT DASH DOT

Member
Resident_UA said:
All that means is that if you show a white rectangle on 100% the screen it will be that bright. Not really sure what the rest of your comment is meant to say, but at least that's the way rtings measures 100% Window. I don't even know why you are picking a fight over this.

Here's a link to their explanation if you are unsure: http://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/picture-quality/peak-brightness#comparison_463
Click to expand...

Picking a fight? Really? Lighten up mate, was just a passing comment with a wink. I'm sure you're not an uptight OLED too.........are you?

It makes sense what I'm saying, if your lowest peak is at the 100% window level say 880 nits, then each smaller window will keep a higher percentage because it started high and so it's easier for a 75% window of the LED's to light up a smaller area, and so on.

More consistent luminance across the screen.

Not rocket science.
 
vpance

vpance

Member
TheBoss1 said:
I get what you're saying and I agree with you about the misguiding part but we know that if the same amount of effort is put into two sets with one of each lighting system, the full array will always be better. There's a reason the best local dimming sets are full array and it's not even close.
Click to expand...

I think the 900E and 930E are close in dimming quality. If they doubled the zones on the 900 there's no question it'd be better at that point. Fwiw I think there's 35 zones on the 65".
 
TheBoss1

TheBoss1

Member
Theonik said:
It's not a matter of effort. Each system has pros and cons.
You are comparing apples with oranges.
Click to expand...

Yes it is a matter of effort from manufacturers implementing this tech. It's pretty obvious Sony put some effort into making a edge lit set with surprisingly good local dimming (X930E) while they just threw together a cost-effective FALD (X900E) that is not too far off. If it's apples to oranges and each local dimming tech has pros and cons then please point me to information that say so. There's no edge lit set that has better local dimming or even comes close to the Z9D or 902.
 
R

Resident_UA

Member
DOT DASH DOT said:
Picking a fight? Really? Lighten up mate, was just a passing comment with a wink. I'm sure you're not an uptight OLED too.........are you?

It makes sense what I'm saying, if your lowest peak is at the 100% window level say 880 nits, then each smaller window will keep a higher percentage because it started high and so it's easier for a 75% window of the LED's to light up a smaller area, and so on.

Less luminance drop through the ranges.

Not rocket science.
Click to expand...

Why does any of this even matter. In fact KS8000 is gets worse at 2% for SDR.

Anything above 400 cd/m2 at 100% window is so bright you will close your eyes. In that case it's just a relative measure.

And you know that I have OLED because I here before. And OLED is TERRIBLE at 100% white window because of ABL to the point where in actually matters (it looks grayish).
 
TheBoss1

TheBoss1

Member
vpance said:
I think the 900E and 930E are close in dimming quality. If they doubled the zones on the 900 there's no question it'd be better at that point. Fwiw I think there's 35 zones on the 65".
Click to expand...

That's exactly the point I was trying to prove. Sony could've easily doubled the zone count but then they would have to switch the product names between the two sets and the edge lit wouldn't be as appealing then.
 
D

DOT DASH DOT

Member
Resident_UA said:
Why does any of this even matter. In fact KS8000 is gets worse at 2% for SDR.

Anything above 400 cd/m2 at 100% window is so bright you will close your eyes. In that case it's just a relative measure.

And you know that I have OLED because I here before. And OLED is TERRIBLE at 100% white window to the point where in actually matters (it looks grayish).
Click to expand...

I meant more consistent luminance across the screen at the end btw.

It's not really about the 100% window, it's about the trickle down effect, the higher the full window, the likely higher the 50% 25% window will be, which does matter.
 
C

Christberg

Member
Has anybody had luck getting HDR to work right with a PC and an LG B6? Seems to have broken with the Windows Anniversary Update. Works fine at the desktop but the color balance is totally trashed in games. Not sure if this is the right place to ask.
 
D

DOT DASH DOT

Member
Christberg said:
Has anybody had luck getting HDR to work right with a PC and an LG B6? Seems to have broken with the Windows Anniversary Update. Works fine at the desktop but the color balance is totally trashed in games. Not sure if this is the right place to ask.
Click to expand...

It's broken, you'd need to roll back to 378 Nvidia driver.
 
vpance

vpance

Member
TheBoss1 said:
That's exactly the point I was trying to prove. Sony could've easily doubled the zone count but then they would have to switch the product names between the two sets and the edge lit wouldn't be as appealing then.
Click to expand...

Sony and Samsung realized how important thin TVs are to the average joe on the higher end, so that's why we get the 930E edge lit. But when we reach flagship territory PQ is king and we get the thick ass FALD Z9D.
 
V

vash2695

Member
So I just got the 65" A1E. I came from a 2016 Vizio P series, and it's one hell of a jump! BFI works extremely well, and things look incredibly realistic.

Also, having the ability to manually enable/disable specific HDR modes is a godsend for HDR troubleshooting. Thanks to this, I now know that HDR only enables properly if you have HDR mode enabled in windows, not just in game (though that CAN work sporadically if you cycle resolutions), and you have to have Nvidia's default display settings enabled (i.e. no manually selecting bit depth, etc.)

If anyone has questions about this TV, I'm happy to share my experience so far :)
 
B

BumRush

Member
vash2695 said:
So I just got the 65" A1E. I came from a 2016 Vizio P series, and it's one hell of a jump! BFI works extremely well, and things look incredibly realistic.

Also, having the ability to manually enable/disable specific HDR modes is a godsend for HDR troubleshooting. Thanks to this, I now know that HDR only enables properly if you have HDR mode enabled in windows, not just in game (though that CAN work sporadically if you cycle resolutions), and you have to have Nvidia's default display settings enabled (i.e. no manually selecting bit depth, etc.)

If anyone has questions about this TV, I'm happy to share my experience so far :)
Click to expand...

How much did you get it for?
 
D

DOT DASH DOT

Member
Weevilone said:
It's cool though. PC gaming isn't more difficult than console gaming, nor does it require more tinkering.
Click to expand...

Guess it depends on what you do to your PC, trouble is it's easy for newbies to get out of their depth, but generally speaking PC gaming is great, but buggy driver releases are a pain in the arse though.
 
R

Resident_UA

Member
LegitMcfalls said:
Have any of you guys come accross this tv before?

http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2421100,00.asp

Its an old 4k tv from 2013, a refurbished model is available for 299$(canadian, so like 220$ american). Just looking for a inexpensive 4k option for my mancave/office to play ps4pro
Click to expand...

For cheap 4K TV I would go with Hisense H8C. I got it about half a year ago before getting an OLED and it was very good for the price. I moved it to my bedroom and I'm happy to watch it when I'm not watching OLED. And a nice bonus it has HDR. It's not "real" HDR but it is 10 bit panel.
 
S

SomewhatGroovy

Banned
Resident_UA said:
I was making fun of KS8000 earlier, but if I didn't get OLED for $1600 I would have kept 55 inch KS8000 which was on sale for about $700. I haven't seen good Vizio deals in a while and their OS is kind of weak...
Click to expand...

yeah but those are practically off the market. at least anything over 50 inches. I can't find a KS8000 of any size within 250 miles from austin tx
 
C

Chopini

Neo Member
I'm looking for 65" OLED to replace my 8 years old plasma (720p).

In my area, B6 is currently at $2450 and B7 is $3950 for 65". The price difference is too much for me to buy B7 but I really want that isf mode with low input lag. Time to make decision. Or should I just wait B7 price to drop but then 2018 is around the corner.

Any suggestion?
 
K

KevinG

Member
There's always going to be a feature in the new models that youll want. That's the cycle of technology. We deliberate, we buy, then realize it's already outdated.

Buy at the price you want to pay, and have a list of essential features.
 
K

Kyoufu

Member
Chopini said:
I'm looking for 65" OLED to replace my 8 years old plasma (720p).

In my area, B6 is currently at $2450 and B7 is $3950 for 65". The price difference is too much for me to buy B7 but I really want that isf mode with low input lag. Time to make decision. Or should I just wait B7 price to drop but then 2018 is around the corner.

Any suggestion?
Click to expand...

Get a cheap LCD TV for now, then invest in an OLED with HDMI 2.1 later?

DOT DASH DOT said:
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/bild7-201705194469.htm

Loewe Bild 7 OLED.

Luxury brand or not, like hell this is worth £4.5k for the 55" and no stand.
Click to expand...

That input lag is horrible. :|
 
D

Data West

coaches in the WNBA
So I bought a Vizio M Series but I need some help as someone whose not that in tune with TVs.

I hooked it up to my PS4 Pro with HDMI-4 at first since I think thats supposed ot have less input lag? or something? but I wanted to check HDR which is only on HDMI-1. I hook it up with HDMI-1 and enable HDR through the app and through the PS4 pro. I launch Injustice 2 but I get the 'your pro can support 4k but you dont have the setting enabled to support 4k on your tv' but if i go to my video output settings it has the resolution at 3840 x 2160. the HDR is definitely on but I'm pretty sure its still 2k instead of 4k. Any ideas how to fix it? I looked all through the input settings on my VIzio app and dont see anything about resolution and I have it on 4k/automatic on the system level. Its just on the game level despite the game supporting 4k
 
T

TranceKuja

Member
So I bought the LG B6V (55 inch) and the screen settings for my OG PS4 says HDR is not supported. Am I missing something?

Edit: Apparently you have to turn it on under 'HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color' in settings.
 
Y

Yaari

Member
So today I'm trying to hook up my PC to my LG OLED. I've used a HDMI cable for it, and as soon as I get my desktop screen on the TV, it starts refreshing every few seconds. There's also an audio issue where it goes silent every few seconds or so, like there's a pattern to it.

It's a very lengthy HDMI cable across the room. I'm not sure how else to hook it up as the PC isnt really within range otherwise. Tried the cable on my switch and no issues or anything. I highly doubt the cable is the issue here.

Do drivers and such come into play when hooking up a TV as a display. I haven't done anything like this with a TV before.
 
G

Glorious Ownage

Member
Yaari said:
So today I'm trying to hook up my PC to my LG OLED. I've used a HDMI cable for it, and as soon as I get my desktop screen on the TV, it starts refreshing every few seconds. There's also an audio issue where it goes silent every few seconds or so, like there's a pattern to it.

It's a very lengthy HDMI cable across the room. I'm not sure how else to hook it up as the PC isnt really within range otherwise. Tried the cable on my switch and no issues or anything. I highly doubt the cable is the issue here.

Do drivers and such come into play when hooking up a TV as a display. I haven't done anything like this with a TV before.
Click to expand...

I had the exact same issue. Lower your hertz to 30 from 60. If that stops it from Flickering it means your hdmi cable doesn't have enough bandwidth to support your settings and you need to find one that's truly got an 18gbps bandwidth.

PS If it's a pretty long cable they tend to struggle hitting that without a power source
 
Y

Yaari

Member
Glorious Ownage said:
I had the exact same issue. Lower your hertz to 30 from 60. If that stops it from Flickering it means your hdmi cable doesn't have enough bandwidth to support your settings and you need to find one that's truly got an 18gbps bandwidth.

PS If it's a pretty long cable they tend to struggle hitting that without a power source
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I tried again using a shorter cable, and it worked fine, having the TV as my primary device. Then I tried again with the long cable, same issues.

So it appears the long cable is the issue. And I don't really know a way around that, considering the TV is like 4 meters away. I did try the 60>30hz and it did not change things for me either.

Is there anything I could do here. Surely the cable was probably cheap quality but I was always told that didn't matter too much. This long cable issue will probably come back whichever brand cable I get right?
 
D

DOT DASH DOT

Member
Sky Chief said:
This is actually somewhat disappointing. The input lag looks really good but the X900E seems better for gaming and sports because of less blur. I thought this would be my next TV but now I'm leaning more towards the X900E, at least I'll save a lot of money.
Click to expand...

It's a blow I'd say, any panning or fast movement, the detail without BFI engaged will get completely smeared out.
 
T

tokkun

Member
Yaari said:
Is there anything I could do here. Surely the cable was probably cheap quality but I was always told that didn't matter too much.
Click to expand...

With digital cables, the quality of the cable matters insofar as the cable works or it doesn't. With a lower quality cable, it's not that the picture quality will be worse, but rather that the cable might work sporadically or not at all.

This long cable issue will probably come back whichever brand cable I get right?
Click to expand...

No, you have some options.

- You can try a higher quality passive cable. It might work if it has better shielding or impedance matching than the low quality one.

- You can buy an active cable. Active cables include some internal electronics like a signal repeater or converter to keep high signal integrity at long lengths. For example, this active cable does internal conversion to optical signaling:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13700

- You can buy an external repeater and connect it using 2 shorter passive cables:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15650
 
W

Weevilone

Member
Yaari said:
Thanks for the reply. I tried again using a shorter cable, and it worked fine, having the TV as my primary device. Then I tried again with the long cable, same issues.

So it appears the long cable is the issue. And I don't really know a way around that, considering the TV is like 4 meters away. I did try the 60>30hz and it did not change things for me either.

Is there anything I could do here. Surely the cable was probably cheap quality but I was always told that didn't matter too much. This long cable issue will probably come back whichever brand cable I get right?
Click to expand...

The cabling issue has become a big deal in the days of people trying to push high bandwidth 4K signals. I assume that's what you are running. I don't know exactly where, but there is a thread on avs where users have been working through long cable issues. If I get a chance I'll see if I can find it.
 
H

HooYaH

Member
Yaari said:
Thanks for the reply. I tried again using a shorter cable, and it worked fine, having the TV as my primary device. Then I tried again with the long cable, same issues.

So it appears the long cable is the issue. And I don't really know a way around that, considering the TV is like 4 meters away. I did try the 60>30hz and it did not change things for me either.

Is there anything I could do here. Surely the cable was probably cheap quality but I was always told that didn't matter too much. This long cable issue will probably come back whichever brand cable I get right?
Click to expand...

Not sure where you live, but Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI cable should work if under 25ft.
 
G

GreenMonkey

Member
Chopini said:
I'm looking for 65" OLED to replace my 8 years old plasma (720p).

In my area, B6 is currently at $2450 and B7 is $3950 for 65". The price difference is too much for me to buy B7 but I really want that isf mode with low input lag. Time to make decision. Or should I just wait B7 price to drop but then 2018 is around the corner.

Any suggestion?
Click to expand...

The 2016 input lag is 34ms and the 2017 is 21ms (off the top of my head).

Personally a smidgeon better shadow detail and 13ms of input lag wasn't worth $1000+, or waiting another year, to me.

Edit: and loss of 3D on 2017 models. I'm not a huge fan of 3D normally but the 3D on the OLED is fantastic.
 
MR ARCADE FOREVER

MR ARCADE FOREVER

Member
After 2 months my LG B6 stopped displaying the screen image. I can only hear the sound on all inputs. I think the screen burnt out. I called customer service and they are sending a technician to take a look. Bummer
 
K

KevinG

Member
THEBONDIGTY said:
After 2 months my LG B6 stopped displaying the screen image. I can only hear the sound on all inputs. I think the screen burnt out. I called customer service and they are sending a technician to take a look. Bummer
Click to expand...
About a week turnaround if they need to replace the panel. LG's support has been superb for me.
 
P

PeterVenkman

Member
Yaari said:
Thanks for the reply. I tried again using a shorter cable, and it worked fine, having the TV as my primary device. Then I tried again with the long cable, same issues.

So it appears the long cable is the issue. And I don't really know a way around that, considering the TV is like 4 meters away. I did try the 60>30hz and it did not change things for me either.

Is there anything I could do here. Surely the cable was probably cheap quality but I was always told that didn't matter too much. This long cable issue will probably come back whichever brand cable I get right?
Click to expand...

Hey just chiming in - every time I update my nvidia drivers this happens on my B6. Screen "refreshes" and sometimes there's visual artifacting until I go to the nvidia control panel and turn off digital audio. Still sounds like it could be the cable length for you, but this has been an ongoing thing for me that I have to fix every driver update
 
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