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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

My friend bought a Samsung UE43KU6000W so he can game and watch movies in 4K when Scorpio comes out. But he forgot to check if the TV supports both HDR10 and Dolby Vision. The only thing I can find is that it has HDR Pro and some customer reviews actually claim that's fake HDR?

If this and he gets to return the TV, what would be a good alternative in the same price range? About 500-600 euros.

Here's the review for it since that number on the model chart in this review seems to match the 43" UK version of this US model number: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300

According to this it supports HDR10 (no Dolby Vision) though the review specifies that it can't really gain much from it especially since it doesn't support a wider color gamut.

Yeah it seems like there is a fake HDR mode on this TV, but here's what they said for setting up the real HDR mode:
Rtings said:
So I just bought the KU6300 50inch Samsung. It has HDR PRO. I hook it up to my PS4 on HDMI port 1 and then I switch into GAME mode. After switching, I try to enable HDR and it states that this function is not available. Was wondering if I'm doing something wrong and how you got those settings for the input lag tests.

First you have to set 'HDMI UHD Color' 'on' for the HDMI port 1, from the picture 'Expert Settings' page. Once this is done, with this TV you don't need to turn on any special mode to get HDR to work, since when the TV detect and HDR signal, a popup is going to appear telling you that an HDR video is playing. It must not be confuse with 'HDR+ Mode' from the 'Special Viewing Mode', which is a 'Fake HDR' that will transform normal content to make it look like HDR.

According to this only HDMI port 1 supports the full spec, so they should use that one for 4K@60Hz@4:4:4:
Rtings said:
I have the Samsung UN40KU6300FXZA try to enable HDMI UHD Color on all 3 HDMI port. I am use PC on HDMI 1, PS4 Pro on HDMI 2 and XBOX One S on HDMI 3. HDMI UHD Color is just enable in port 1. Why can i not enable the other 2 ports?

Only the HDMI port 1 is able to support the full HDMI 2.0 bandwidth on this TV unfortunately. The 2 other port are not full bandwidth compliant. Maybe this decision was made to be able to cut the price of the TV, since the more expensive KS Series support the full bandwidth on all HDMI port.

Hope that helps.
And hopefully someone else can offer suggestions in that price range over there for the other options.
 
Here's the review for it since that number on the model chart in this review seems to match the 43" UK version of this US model number: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300

According to this it supports HDR10 (no Dolby Vision) though the review specifies that it can't really gain much from it especially since it doesn't support a wider color gamut.

Yeah it seems like there is a fake HDR mode on this TV, but here's what they said for setting up the real HDR mode:


According to this only HDMI port 1 supports the full spec, so they should use that one for 4K@60Hz@4:4:4:


Hope that helps.
And hopefully someone else can offer suggestions in that price range over there for the other options.

Many thanks man. Very helpful for sure. I sent this link to my friend right away.

When the TV is delivered at his place and he likes how things look, maybe he should stick with it. Because there probably aren't many TVs in that price range that support both HDR10 and Dolby Vision right? Plus how important is Dolby Vision even?
 

Savantcore

Unconfirmed Member
Got myself a Sony KD55XD8005 coming on Wednesday (I think it's called the X850D in the US). Nothing more to add except that I'm excited :D
 
I've been seeing some comments on other forums that surprised me a little. I saw owners of a 65 inch screen saying that they sit about 2m away from their screen. Which sounds crazy close to me.

When I still had my 1080p OLED I sat like 3 to 3.5m away and that to me seemed about right. So...... What is the "ideal" viewing distance for a 55 inch and 65 inch?
 

RetroMG

Member
Got myself a Sony KD55XD8005 coming on Wednesday (I think it's called the X850D in the US). Nothing more to add except that I'm excited :D

Congrats! I get to order mine on Friday, whatever it is. I keep moving across a spectrum of choices ranging from a 55" Vizio M series (lower quality, but less expensive,) to the 55" X850D. (I really want the X850D, but it's a pretty significant price increase.)
 

sibarraz

Banned
Bought this tv

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6500

Some questions:

-Do I need an special HDMI cable to enjoy the maximum of 4k? or the ones that came with consoles are fine?.

-I will buy a pro or scorpio in 2 or 3 months, meanwhile I only have a ps3 and a notebook that supports 1080p, is there some tips or features that I could use to improve things on those systems?

-When I had the 4k console, which settings should I use on my tv? I have to connect the hdmi cable in an specific port? any tip will be helpful

Any help?
 

MacAttack

Member
Amazon is showing the MSRP for the TCL P series at $799 (sale price is $599).

I thought the retail price was $650 last time I checked.
 

Finally.

best-class.gif
 

vpance

Member
I've been seeing some comments on other forums that surprised me a little. I saw owners of a 65 inch screen saying that they sit about 2m away from their screen. Which sounds crazy close to me.

When I still had my 1080p OLED I sat like 3 to 3.5m away and that to me seemed about right. So...... What is the "ideal" viewing distance for a 55 inch and 65 inch?

Unless you have space restrictions 2m is a bit too close for 65 or even 55 IMO. The closer you are the more you'll need to dart your eyes across the screen so it's not practical especially while gaming. All depends on your viewing area and comfort level though. I'm 8-9ft away from a 65.
 
Unless you have space restrictions 2m is a bit too close for 65 or even 55 IMO. The closer you are the more you'll need to dart your eyes across the screen so it's not practical especially while gaming. All depends on your viewing area and comfort level though. I'm 8-9ft away from a 65.

Some of them claimed you won't see the benefits of 4K versus 1080p if you don't at least sit about 2m away from a 55 inch. But seems like that's nonsense then. I'll probably stick to 3m when I get my 4K OLED.
 

BlizzyAzz

Member
Bought this tv

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6500

Some questions:

-Do I need an special HDMI cable to enjoy the maximum of 4k? or the ones that came with consoles are fine?.

-I will buy a pro or scorpio in 2 or 3 months, meanwhile I only have a ps3 and a notebook that supports 1080p, is there some tips or features that I could use to improve things on those systems?

-When I had the 4k console, which settings should I use on my tv? I have to connect the hdmi cable in an specific port? any tip will be helpful

The ones with consoles are fine, otherwise buy something like amazon basic hdmi 2.0 cable.

What do you mean by improve? Use the settings from rtings.com and you should be fine.

From the link you posted "To accept a high bandwidth signal such as 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4, it is necessary to enable 'HDMI UHD Color'. This is only possible on HDMI1. Change the input label to 'PC' to accurately display chroma subsampling for PC use."
 

Savantcore

Unconfirmed Member
Congrats! I get to order mine on Friday, whatever it is. I keep moving across a spectrum of choices ranging from a 55" Vizio M series (lower quality, but less expensive,) to the 55" X850D. (I really want the X850D, but it's a pretty significant price increase.)

Very nice! A couple of us have the previous year's version of this TV, the X850C, good stuff! Enjoy it! :)

Thanks a lot! Yeah, the X850D was a bit more than I planned to spend, but of course I managed to convince myself haha. Actually the first TV I'm buying for myself. So looking forward to getting rid of the one I've had for like a decade now.
 

vpance

Member
Some of them claimed you won't see the benefits of 4K versus 1080p if you don't at least sit about 2m away from a 55 inch. But seems like that's nonsense then. I'll probably stick to 3m when I get my 4K OLED.

Yeah it is nonsense, don't worry about that if X size then Y distance stuff. Prioritize your own viewing and seating comfort first. If your eyesight doesn't suck you can tell the difference with high quality 4K content much further than that.
 
-Do I need an special HDMI cable to enjoy the maximum of 4k? or the ones that came with consoles are fine?.

-I will buy a pro or scorpio in 2 or 3 months, meanwhile I only have a ps3 and a notebook that supports 1080p, is there some tips or features that I could use to improve things on those systems?

-When I had the 4k console, which settings should I use on my tv? I have to connect the hdmi cable in an specific port? any tip will be helpful

You don't need a special HDMI cable, but you do need one that actually fully followed the spec and therefore does support the full high-speed spec. The ones that will come with the 4K consoles should be fine and some of the ones you have might already be fine so you could try them as well. Otherwise there are couple of threads where people have talked about which ones seem to work the most reliably so something like amazon basic hdmi 2.0 cable or some others.

Probably start with the Rtings settings and see how you like them on your specific TV and tweak from there (since there's some variation). Basically calibrating or at least tweaking your settings using a calibration disc to improve the picture is what you could do in order to better dial in beyond the out-of-box picture modes or game mode.

HDMI port 1 seems to be the one that supports the full spec on that TV such as 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4, and HDR, so you'll definitely want to use that for the Pro or Scorpio.

Rtings said:
To accept a high bandwidth signal such as 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4, it is necessary to enable 'HDMI UHD Color'. This is only possible on HDMI1. Change the input label to 'PC' to accurately display chroma subsampling for PC use.

Edit: Nevermind, beaten by BlizzyAzz with the same info :)
 

tokkun

Member
I've been seeing some comments on other forums that surprised me a little. I saw owners of a 65 inch screen saying that they sit about 2m away from their screen. Which sounds crazy close to me.

When I still had my 1080p OLED I sat like 3 to 3.5m away and that to me seemed about right. So...... What is the "ideal" viewing distance for a 55 inch and 65 inch?

There is not a single answer to this, because what is "ideal" may vary.

If you want a screen that will fill your binocular field of view, take the screen's diagonal resolution and divide by 3.5. For a 65" screen, that's a viewing distance of only 1.5 feet. Further away and you sacrifice FoV.

If you want to sit as far away as possible but still be able to resolve a single-pixel difference in a 4K image, divide by 1.3 (for 20/20 vision). For optimal eyesight, it's 0.75. The distance there is going to be somewhere in the range of 4-7 feet for a 65" display - so that's where the 2m comes from. Further away and you sacrifice detail.

But maximum FoV or maximum detail aren't necessarily what is "ideal" to you. Comfort matters too.
 
Just bought a Toshiba 55 inch with 4k and chromecast built in. Loving it so far.

Have checked out a few 4k videos and can see a huge difference. Only thing that sucks is no HDR on the TV but oh well.
 

Stiler

Member
I've been seeing some comments on other forums that surprised me a little. I saw owners of a 65 inch screen saying that they sit about 2m away from their screen. Which sounds crazy close to me.

When I still had my 1080p OLED I sat like 3 to 3.5m away and that to me seemed about right. So...... What is the "ideal" viewing distance for a 55 inch and 65 inch?

With 4k you can sit closer,

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WFcuMZirs4I/learn/learningcenter/home/TV_placement.html

1.6-2.4 meters is the recommend distance for a 65" 4k.

As 4k naturally shows more minute details sitting closer lets you see them better.
 
Yeah it is nonsense, don't worry about that if X size then Y distance stuff. Prioritize your own viewing and seating comfort first. If your eyesight doesn't suck you can tell the difference with high quality 4K content much further than that.

Well the thing is, I have a pretty nice sized living room. Not extremely big but neither very small. If I wanted I could put my couch 1 meter away from my TV but that would really ruin the look of my living room. My normal eyesight from a far is pretty bad but with my glasses it's fine.

There is not a single answer to this, because what is "ideal" may vary.

If you want a screen that will fill your binocular field of view, take the screen's diagonal resolution and divide by 3.5. For a 65" screen, that's a viewing distance of only 1.5 feet. Further away and you sacrifice FoV.

If you want to sit as far away as possible but still be able to resolve a single-pixel difference in a 4K image, divide by 1.3 (for 20/20 vision). For optimal eyesight, it's 0.75. The distance there is going to be somewhere in the range of 4-7 feet for a 65" display - so that's where the 2m comes from. Further away and you sacrifice detail.

But maximum FoV or maximum detail aren't necessarily what is "ideal" to you. Comfort matters too.

Thanks for this man. I'm not too good with those kind of numbers but this makes sense to me. It sounds like a matter of trying it out myself and see at what distance I can't really tell the difference anymore.

With 4k you can sit closer,

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WFcuMZirs4I/learn/learningcenter/home/TV_placement.html

1.6-2.4 meters is the recommend distance for a 65" 4k.

As 4k naturally shows more minute details sitting closer lets you see them better.

Yeah when I still had my full HD OLED the distance was about 3 to 3.5 or even 4 meters. I did at one point try sitting two meters away from it but i could spot the aliasing and other ugly visual things in Xbox Games. But then again several of those games are 720p,sometimes lower and sometimes 900p and 1080p. It would only make sense that 720p up close is not too great to look at. This problem should be gone when I get the Scorpio. Wouldn't surprise me if I really want to move my couch closed around that time.

I love details. :)
 

sibarraz

Banned
You don't need a special HDMI cable, but you do need one that actually fully followed the spec and therefore does support the full high-speed spec. The ones that will come with the 4K consoles should be fine and some of the ones you have might already be fine so you could try them as well. Otherwise there are couple of threads where people have talked about which ones seem to work the most reliably so something like amazon basic hdmi 2.0 cable or some others.

Probably start with the Rtings settings and see how you like them on your specific TV and tweak from there (since there's some variation). Basically calibrating or at least tweaking your settings using a calibration disc to improve the picture is what you could do in order to better dial in beyond the out-of-box picture modes or game mode.

HDMI port 1 seems to be the one that supports the full spec on that TV such as 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4, and HDR, so you'll definitely want to use that for the Pro or Scorpio.



Edit: Nevermind, beaten by BlizzyAzz with the same info :)

Thanks. Could you explain what is 4:4:4?

Also, I used HDR in my cable box and it was really weird, like all the colors toned down and felt like watching a picture with those sepia filters from instagram
 
GAF

Just bought a 65C7. Gettind delivered Wed. Anyone with a C/B7 got any setup tips? I know to turn on deep color for the hdmi inputs and change the icon to PC to enable 4:4:4.

I was planning to use the recommended settings from rtings (and probably get it professionally calibrated at a later date).

I'll be running PC and PS4 Pro to the TV.

Suuuuper pumped to see what this thing looks like coming from my 55ST60 Panasonic Plasma. Might hop into an Oppo 203 yet as well....
 

Haint

Member
Amazon is showing the MSRP for the TCL P series at $799 (sale price is $599).

I thought the retail price was $650 last time I checked.

They list fake MSRPs to make the standard retail price look like a sale/discount. It is sad Amazon's not above the old furniture store going out of business sleeze tactics.
 
Also, I used HDR in my cable box and it was really weird, like all the colors toned down and felt like watching a picture with those sepia filters from instagram

If it was just a cable box with regular TV programming then that would be the reason it looked weird since that's not real HDR. Did you turn on an HDR setting manually? Real HDR on most TVs engage your HDR mode automatically whenever they detect it.

For that to happen you need a real HDR (usually 4K HDR) source like some of the file movie clip samples that always get recommended for trying it out, or 4K HDR blu-ray discs (requires a 4K Blu-ray player), or the 4K HDR offerings from Netflix or Amazon streaming. You could also try as well with any of the HDR enabled games on either a PS4 or a PS4 Pro. For those you'd connect it to HDMI 1 and configure it as Rtings mentioned.


Easiest thing to do first is try out some of these for a test: http://demo-uhd3d.com/categorie.php?tag=hdr
Download one of the HDR10 ones and put it on a usb flash drive and try to play it directly from the TV to see if it automatically recognizes it as HDR.
 

SourBear

Banned
Maybe, possibly, most likely - a very stupid question.

Is "nits" just a junk measurement used by marketing teams to confuse people?
How much does it really effect the picture and HDR quality the TV set is capable of producing?

Look at Sony for the most extreme example:
x940e (~1200 nits real scene) vs A1e (~600-ish nits real scene)

Both of these TV's are getting great reviews. And yet there is this large disparity between them in regards to peak brightness.

If you get the A1e aren't you just gimping yourself on the kinds of HDR content it can accurately portray? And if not, then why even have the measurement other than for marketing?
 

RedAssedApe

Banned
Can someone try this and tell me if they are getting a browser warning about a deceptive site? This happens whenever I start fresh with a browser where I've completely cleared the cache:

go to google.com and do a search for anything that brings up links to avsforum threads:

i.e. site:avsforum.com nits

Click any link that goes to a avsforum thread. I'm getting redirected to: http ://37.139.50.41/mao and the browser security stops it.

It seems to only happen the first time. Any subsequent visits don't result in the issue or if I go to avsforum directly and not via Google search links. Anyone know what's happening here (if its happening to you?) Bad ad? Pretty sure I don't have malware as I'm always running Sophos on my Mac and nightly AV scans as well as occasional Malwarebytes scans. I also noticed the behavior on my iPhone.
 

Stiler

Member
Maybe, possibly, most likely - a very stupid question.

Is "nits" just a junk measurement used by marketing teams to confuse people?
How much does it really effect the picture and HDR quality the TV set is capable of producing?

Look at Sony for the most extreme example:
x940e (~1200 nits real scene) vs A1e (~600-ish nits real scene)

Both of these TV's are getting great reviews. And yet there is this large disparity between them in regards to peak brightness.

If you get the A1e aren't you just gimping yourself on the kinds of HDR content it can accurately portray? And if not, then why even have the measurement other than for marketing?

It's not a junk measurement. Nits refers to the amount of light that is sent from the tv. Higher nits = more light. It is a measurable unit (1 nit = 1 candela per square meter).

In regards to the X940e (lcd) vs the A1e (OLED) there's a trade off.

LCD's (right now) are able to achieve more nits vs OLED's. However OLED's are able to achieve true absolute blacks (0 light) where LCD's can not.

You can take a scene that has HDR in it and the HDR will be brighter on the LCD however the blacks will be better on the OLED.

It's a trade off right now, and it's up to you to decide which is more important to you.

True blacks are a godsend when it comes to many movies, especially movies that take place a lot at night or dark scenes.

To me that's worth not having as many nits when it comes to HDR sources. It can still get bright, just not as bright as the lcd.
 

MouldyK

Member
A Cross-Post about the XD8088 (Or X800D in US)

It's currently £599 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01HM7JPMW/

Price seems to bounce around, I got mine for £521 in December from Tesco Direct (they no longer stock it though apparently).

It's now £759 there.

Tesco no longer sells the product.

It seems to be phasing out now in the UK. :/

I'm still on the fence until I hear about Scorpio this weekend.


Do I need to bite the bullet already or is there an alternative £500-700 43-Inch 4K HDR TV? I know this year's model, the X800E is supposedly worse.
 

III-V

Member
Maybe, possibly, most likely - a very stupid question.

Is "nits" just a junk measurement used by marketing teams to confuse people?
How much does it really effect the picture and HDR quality the TV set is capable of producing?

Not a junk measurement, it is the real deal. Measurable, quantifiable, and useful for describing some aspects of HDR performance.
 

Button

Banned
I will buy a Sony X900E this summer. In July. 55" or 65" depending on the level of insanity when I go to the TV store.
 

shockdude

Member
Is "nits" just a junk measurement used by marketing teams to confuse people?
How much does it really effect the picture and HDR quality the TV set is capable of producing?

It's not a junk measurement. Nits refers to the amount of light that is sent from the tv. Higher nits = more light. It is a measurable unit (1 nit = 1 candela per square meter).

Not a junk measurement, it is the real deal. Measurable, quantifiable, and useful for describing some aspects of HDR performance.

Not a junk measurement, but can be junk marketing.
E.g. TVs which are advertised to hit 1000 nits but which only do so at 1% of the screen for 1 second. Worse are the the TVs which fail to hit their advertised nit target entirely.

"Real Scene" nit measurements by reviewers are generally an ok objective benchmark. No marketer will ever use "real scene" measurements in their advertising.
 

Kambing

Member
Don't update your 2017 LG OLED to the latest firmware if you care about HDR gaming. The latest update fixes gamut tracking in PC input, but has royally messed up the tone mapping/color space of HDR, in any mode. D-nice just calibrated my display today and confirmed it.

Having said that, to anyone on the fence about getting a professional calibration, I really recommend it. What a difference it has made.
 
I wasnt SUPER impressed with Netflix 4K content on my C6. It looks good, but...yeah.

Destiny looks pretty on my non-pro PS4.

It wasn't until I downloaded the LG Chess demo onto a USB Drive that I had that WOW moment. Those true blacks are bananas!
 

GreekWolf

Member
Speaking of nits, how would an A1E compare to one of Panasonic plasma flagships, like the VT50?

We have the VT50, which is considered to be a bright plasma, and have never experienced any problems watching it during the day with a great deal of sunlight in the room.

Would the A1E be dimmer or possibly even brighter?
 

Alexious

Member
Don't update your 2017 LG OLED to the latest firmware if you care about HDR gaming. The latest update fixes gamut tracking in PC input, but has royally messed up the tone mapping/color space of HDR, in any mode. D-nice just calibrated my display today and confirmed it.

Having said that, to anyone on the fence about getting a professional calibration, I really recommend it. What a difference it has made.

D-nice?
 

Lima

Member
Speaking of nits, how would an A1E compare to one of Panasonic plasma flagships, like the VT50?

We have the VT50, which is considered to be a bright plasma, and have never experienced any problems watching it during the day with a great deal of sunlight in the room.

Would the A1E be dimmer or possibly even brighter?

The VT50 is not considered a bright plasma at all so let's get that out of the way first.

Now using a 10% window in SDR the 65A1 is able to get as high as 300 cd/m2 which is almost 3x as much as the 65VT50 which hovered around 110.
 

Schlomo

Member
Don't update your 2017 LG OLED to the latest firmware if you care about HDR gaming. The latest update fixes gamut tracking in PC input, but has royally messed up the tone mapping/color space of HDR, in any mode. D-nice just calibrated my display today and confirmed it.

Having said that, to anyone on the fence about getting a professional calibration, I really recommend it. What a difference it has made.

Uh oh, I just updated. Luckily, I finished playing through Horizon yesterday, lol. Edit: I can't see any difference. I guess it's something you need a colorimeter to notice?

I just played Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, and colors are actually much improved there. With the old firmware, I had to dial down red levels in PC Mode, ISF Dark, but now everything looks fine with the standard settings.
 
Ok guys....i need some help/advice with this.

65 inch B6 OLED - 2650 euros
55 inch C7 OLED - 1999-2150 euros

If i go for the C7 i will be able to afford it pretty soon from now. However for the B6 i need to wait until i have saved up 1113 euros. Of course that is all up to me.....but....

The 65 inch B6 is a damn nice size, but in terms of picture quality, input lag, contrast and all that it's not as good as the C7 which makes sense because one is a 2016 TV and the other is 2017. How big/noticeable are these differences at all though? And is that price difference worth it?
 

Kambing

Member
Uh oh, I just updated. Luckily, I finished playing through Horizon yesterday, lol. Edit: I can't see any difference. I guess it's something you need a colorimeter to notice?

I just played Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, and colors are actually much improved there. With the old firmware, I had to dial down red levels in PC Mode, ISF Dark, but now everything looks fine with the standard settings.

Yeah colors outside of HDR are actually much improved... before in PC input prior to the patch, the set was pushing a ton of cyan, due to wrong gamut tracking. No surprise that Mario looks better now!

I hope it just isn't my set, but HDR is completely messed up in PC input for me. Everything is dimmed and colors seem to have been layered in black overwash, completely dulling everything.
 
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