I want to add something to the listen mode on/off debate. I think the game does change slightly based on if you have it or don't. One of the highlights of the game for me, was when I thought I had cleared an area of enemies. I was starting to move through to the next area when Ellie suddenly yells out something to the effect of "Look out behind you!"
I do a quick turn around and I see a guy charging at me with a pipe, just a couple feet away. I got off a quick headshot to down him, but I was pretty amazed at how that event had just transpired. If I had listen mode, I likely wouldn't have experienced it. I would have used it to know how many enemies there were, where they were, and most importantly, I would have known when the coast was clear.
I strongly want to urge anyone who hasn't played the game yet, to at least try the game on hard with no listen mode. You can always turn down the difficulty if you find it against your liking, and turn on listen mode if you feel it's too frustrating, but I really feel like you will be missing out on moments like the one I described if you come to rely on it. That said, I don't think that the only way to play the game is hard/no listen. If you find it too difficult and too frustrating, by all means, use listen-mode, and turn down the difficulty. I just think people owe it to themselves to at least give hard/no-listen a shot.