Need to know your motherboard rev first.
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
- Thread starter IrishNinja
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Need to know your motherboard rev first.
D.Lo
Member
If by this you mean the Framemeister price is stupid, than the answer is no.
Speedwagon
Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel. Yabuki turned off voice chat in Mario Kart races. True artists of their time.
So I need to open my N64 first? What's the best way to do that if I don't have the special screw driver? Or what's the best one to buy?
baphomet
Member
Whats the serial number on the bottom?
Speedwagon
Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel. Yabuki turned off voice chat in Mario Kart races. True artists of their time.
NUS-001(USA) or NS108077881?
baphomet
Member
So it's early enough that it can be done with the standard ths7314 mod.
Speedwagon
Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel. Yabuki turned off voice chat in Mario Kart races. True artists of their time.
Would this allow me to connect it to my Samsung PN51F8500?
Does it have RGB SCART?
BocoDragon
or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
I wonder if there's a correlation between the easily RGB moddable N64s and the ability to play GameShark on it.
I have a NS2******* and I'm sure it's hard to RGB mod... and it doesn't play my GameShark like my old one did! Phooey!
I'll have to pick up another N64 someday... or buy one pre-modded.
I have a NS2******* and I'm sure it's hard to RGB mod... and it doesn't play my GameShark like my old one did! Phooey!
I'll have to pick up another N64 someday... or buy one pre-modded.
Shadowman16
Member
I've been thinking about getting an upscaler so that I can play my older consoles on my HDTV and after doing some research it seems the XRGB Mini is the best one to get.
I'm just a little confused on a couple of things - my consoles are PAL consoles, doing some reading it looks as though I'd need some kind of special RGB adapter to plug the consoles into the XRGB, as Japanese and Euro RGB signals are different? Is that correct?
Also, would I be able to use my NES/Famicom on it, as those don't output in RGB but composite instead.
Is there any advantage to plugging my Xbox into it as opposed to just using component cables?
Lastly, would the Wii work through this? I ask as plugging my Wii into my Panasonic Plasma HDTV I get a pretty soft picture even when using component cables and I'd like to get the console displaying better on my HDTV.
I'm just a little confused on a couple of things - my consoles are PAL consoles, doing some reading it looks as though I'd need some kind of special RGB adapter to plug the consoles into the XRGB, as Japanese and Euro RGB signals are different? Is that correct?
Also, would I be able to use my NES/Famicom on it, as those don't output in RGB but composite instead.
Is there any advantage to plugging my Xbox into it as opposed to just using component cables?
Lastly, would the Wii work through this? I ask as plugging my Wii into my Panasonic Plasma HDTV I get a pretty soft picture even when using component cables and I'd like to get the console displaying better on my HDTV.
Huggers
Member
I think you need one of these or something approximate; http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/european-scart-to-framemeister-xrgb-mini-converter-for-sale.html
Be warned though. Not everyone has had good cables from that place. Also as I understand it you have to manually change the settings to output 50hz
Shadowman16
Member
Cool, thanks. I'll take a look into that.
BMX Bandit
Member
Are the scart to HDMI adaptors on amazon decent for the price range? (50-70$)?
I notice a lot of youtube videos seem to stretch the image\do they not output at 4:3?
Thanks for any input you can provide.
I notice a lot of youtube videos seem to stretch the image\do they not output at 4:3?
Thanks for any input you can provide.
Avoid those.
sixteen-bit
Member
they're awful.
BMX Bandit
Member
Ah OK thanks. I guess my next question would be is there a mid range option that's recommended or just go straight for the 300$ one?
sixteen-bit
Member
mid range option is track down a CRT
Yeah most of them will just stupidly output a stretched picture, if your display has no option to compensate for it you're just screwed.
Framemeister or real CRT. Anything else is crap.
Or florida!
John Caboose
Member
This is way way too unsophisticated for you guys but I have to share. I asked earlier in the thread about connecting last-last gen consoles to a PC monitor.
I actually managed to get video from my PS2 to one of my LED PC-monitors through an insane amount of jerry-rigging. It hit me today that maybe, just maybe the elgato I have could actually be used to convert the regular PS2 signal to HDMI. And it did! Problem was that my display did not like the refresh rate and although the PS2 video showed on my monitor it was covered with a giant "HDMI Out of Range 15.6khz/50hz" error pop-up.
Well, well. I remembered reading about improved HDMI-in 50Hz support in one of the dashboard updates for Xbox One. I thought that maybe the X1 could stand in as a makeshift converter of the 50Hz signal from the ps2/elgato to a 60Hz signal that my monitor can handle.
It worked.
Here is a quick image I made to illustrate the setup (and prove that it works).
I actually managed to get video from my PS2 to one of my LED PC-monitors through an insane amount of jerry-rigging. It hit me today that maybe, just maybe the elgato I have could actually be used to convert the regular PS2 signal to HDMI. And it did! Problem was that my display did not like the refresh rate and although the PS2 video showed on my monitor it was covered with a giant "HDMI Out of Range 15.6khz/50hz" error pop-up.
Well, well. I remembered reading about improved HDMI-in 50Hz support in one of the dashboard updates for Xbox One. I thought that maybe the X1 could stand in as a makeshift converter of the 50Hz signal from the ps2/elgato to a 60Hz signal that my monitor can handle.
It worked.
Here is a quick image I made to illustrate the setup (and prove that it works).
NormalFish
Banned
That's actually hilarious ahahaha. Is the input lag not completely ridiculous?
Huggers
Member
Buy it. Join us in BVM heaven
Sounds more like they're wanting to buy to resell it. Would be nice if they could hook a gaffer up though.
John Caboose
Member
Hehe. Thought it might be appreciated.
Surprisingly the input lag is more or less negligable. I don't notice it to be honest. I haven't tried anything "twitchy" through HDMI in since Xbox One launched though.
The elgato has a 1.5s delay for when you transfer it over usb to your computer, the passthrough itself has low latency. Xbox One HDMI-input is know to be somewhat laggy but if you have it fullscreen without any post-processing (notifications, snapped apps, recently been to dashboard) it minimizes latency.
IQ-wise it is pretty much just fine. About what I'd expect if I had plugged in my cables straight into a HDTV. I think there might be a little bit of vertical stretching. Not sure though (hard to compare it to anything).
Would you want an elgato screenshot or me taking a photo of my screen with a game running? Because neither perfectly conveys how it looks to the naked eye when actually playing.
For lag se above.
No worries, don't have consoles older than PS2/Xbox.
Huggers
Member
It would be awesome. Can't impress enough how great the picture is on a BVM
Most PS1 games and some PS2 games are 240p. So it's still an issue on PS2.
U n i o n 0015
Member
Solaris has them for ~$300. For the price of a console, I don't feel that's terrible. I only have one retro system left to connect it to, so it makes it a tough sell.
John Caboose
Member
Good to know. I only have MGS1 for PS1 and Hype The Time Quest for PS2, no idea what their resolutions are though.
Up: Hype worked perfectly. MGS1 does not work.
baphomet
Member
Depends on where youre located. I'd say its worth $200 absolute tops. $150 is probably more realistic. That's if its in pristine condition with low hours.
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Which part?
I'm in So Cal.
... So i just got a call back from the dude selling it. He had made a mistake and informed me the monitor he had was the Sony BVM-D20f1u. Which i'm sure means he wants more money for it. O well.
entremet
Member
Google has really killed great deals these days lol. Everyone just looks up the price these days.
goldenpp72
Member
Anyone in here have suggestions for a nice looking black TV stand that can support the weight of the larger CRT tvs? Something a bit universal so if one breaks I can find another tv and still place it on there.
Now i just want to go on a hunt for one just for fun haha!
I live smack in the middle of the film and broadcast industry, so there are a lot of businesses that resale this kind of equipment.
NormalFish
Banned
Yeah, I would imagine so cal is pretty much as good as it gets for finding nice crts
John Caboose
Member
Here's an image of what my jerry-rigged elgato+xbox one setup looks like on-screen. I played for maybe an hour yesterday and I have to say that it works great, didn't notice any input lag playing Hype (Zelda style gameplay) and image looked good.
link to image: http://abload.de/img/20150113_200652331_iozok8i.jpg
link to image: http://abload.de/img/20150113_200652331_iozok8i.jpg
theSlacker
Member
I bought 2 BVM-D20F1U units complete with control units for $160-$170 like a year ago. The D shouldn't do as much for the price as a seller would think, so just stay in contact with him till he is willing to go lower on it. Basically the D means that it was sold with the added HD expansion card in the back that isn't really of much use to the market we are in now, retro gaming. It also may mean that they have the 16:9 screen mask that you can just pop off to see the full screen. The unit itself will be more ugly that way so its better if you can find a 4:3 screen mask around.
A friend of mine can't get her N64 working on her new TV. Its been tested and all the gear works, but we can't seem to figure out how to get it working with this one particular TV. Here's what we are dealing with:
Standard AV cables. Yellow for video, red and white for audio. She also has a Y-Cable if needed.
Looks pretty straight forward. Just hook the 3 cables up to the AV slots....
WTF? There's only one hole for each AV input. She's tried using the Y-cable and plugging all 3 into any one of those slots, but nothing seems to work. That doesn't sound right to me anyway though, as I've never seen audio and video go into the same input before. At least not with this kind of plug.
So what do we do here? I'm at a loss. She lives pretty far from me and I'm trying to help her remotely, but those single slot inputs have thrown me off. Halp!
Standard AV cables. Yellow for video, red and white for audio. She also has a Y-Cable if needed.
Looks pretty straight forward. Just hook the 3 cables up to the AV slots....
WTF? There's only one hole for each AV input. She's tried using the Y-cable and plugging all 3 into any one of those slots, but nothing seems to work. That doesn't sound right to me anyway though, as I've never seen audio and video go into the same input before. At least not with this kind of plug.
So what do we do here? I'm at a loss. She lives pretty far from me and I'm trying to help her remotely, but those single slot inputs have thrown me off. Halp!
MikeHattsu
Member
The Y cable is the special one that came with the TV, right? Not something she's bought afterwards? Should just work if you follow what omgkitty said then.
So I need a SCART switch box with 4-5 inputs for my systems.
I can't seem to find any for sale online that aren't complete trash.
I've also only even seen like 3 that were actually available.
All the recommended ones I see from places like video game perfection are all discontinued...
What am I supposed to do?
I really don't want to pay $130 for that custom fan made 8 input device because I will NEVER use more than 5 ports, period.
Should I be looking for a used one at this point?
I can't seem to find any for sale online that aren't complete trash.
I've also only even seen like 3 that were actually available.
All the recommended ones I see from places like video game perfection are all discontinued...
What am I supposed to do?
I really don't want to pay $130 for that custom fan made 8 input device because I will NEVER use more than 5 ports, period.
Should I be looking for a used one at this point?
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