Friend of Sonic
Member
I've been going around telling everyone I can, because I'm not sure if he's updated the manual, but the labels on the VGA- RGB switch are reverse-- you need it set to RGB if you want it to display in VGA mode.
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
- Thread starter IrishNinja
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Later Alligator
Member
after going back and forth for a bit, i couldn't pass up the bvm 1911 for 200 bucks and got it 
thing was just services and calibrated, is in awesome shape and couldnt pass up the chance to own one of the highest quality crts ever made even though i have a frame meister
thing is a beast! just ordered my scart to bnc adapter and am looking forward to it's arrival. now gotta figure out where im gonna put this thing
thing was just services and calibrated, is in awesome shape and couldnt pass up the chance to own one of the highest quality crts ever made even though i have a frame meister
thing is a beast! just ordered my scart to bnc adapter and am looking forward to it's arrival. now gotta figure out where im gonna put this thing
Huggers
Member
after going back and forth for a bit, i couldn't pass up the bvm 1911 for 200 bucks and got it
thing was just services and calibrated, is in awesome shape and couldnt pass up the chance to own one of the highest quality crts ever made even though i have a frame meister
thing is a beast! just ordered my scart to bnc adapter and am looking forward to it's arrival. now gotta figure out where im gonna put this thing
Welcome to team awesome. The views are incredible!
IrishNinja
Member
late on this Chac, but again, i found a guy on SHMUPs forum that modded my VGA box for SCART use, plugs right into my xrgb. he also added a Bangi-O switch for games not supporting said VGA signal, good work overall.
Well I'm glad you did. I had no idea something like voltage would be running rampant through an unpowered automatic switch into my consoles.
I'm glad a community like this is around to help those out who may be a little naiive on the subject.
Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
See, I thought about that, but I run into the same problem, since I have an XRGB-3, and that's still going to output in VGA if I want the B1 mode.
I think the solution is just to buy the thing that SixFortyFive posted above. Seems like that'll get the job done without any fuss.
For what it's worth, you might as well do so. I'm not very impressed by the Toro -> Framemeister image quality. I'm assuming it's due to the FM and not the Toro though.
Dave_6
Member
I got to browsing this thread a little and decided to check out which SNES I have. It's a gen 1 in like new condition (SNS-001) but it is the UN1 version, which from what I've gathered is one of the worst as far as PQ. I have it hooked up via S-video to my 26" flat screen CRT Sanyo TV and it looks OK but I imagine it can look better. Anything I can do to make it look better or should I be on the look out for a good PVM display?
sixteen-bit
Member
pm gaf member baphomet
NormalFish
Banned
I also just did a quick google, and I can only find comparisons between Gamecube and Wii (which is impressive for gamecube games, if a little bit disheartening since those cables are crazy expensive). If I had to guess I'd say the later model is a bit cleaner but not massively so.
So you guys might have seen, but I picked an insane deal from GAF member Leatherface.
Among the 40 ish odd Gamecube games, it included the Monster S-Video cables. Previously for my SNES and N64 I only had a generic S-Video cable that also included Composite video. From what I've read that is an extremely poor quality signal on those types.
And while its not quite RGB quality Im sure, Im still incredibly impressed at the results on my Panasonic Viera. (Some 720p model, Ill probably upgrade when this one dies.) So until I have enough money / time to mod my systems and get an XRGB mini, I don't feel slighted at all by the picture quality! It's seriously impressive! Heres a random crappy iPhone pic.
Among the 40 ish odd Gamecube games, it included the Monster S-Video cables. Previously for my SNES and N64 I only had a generic S-Video cable that also included Composite video. From what I've read that is an extremely poor quality signal on those types.
And while its not quite RGB quality Im sure, Im still incredibly impressed at the results on my Panasonic Viera. (Some 720p model, Ill probably upgrade when this one dies.) So until I have enough money / time to mod my systems and get an XRGB mini, I don't feel slighted at all by the picture quality! It's seriously impressive! Heres a random crappy iPhone pic.
I do 480i and 480p directly on my HDTV and bypass the Mini altogether for them. If your HDTV isn't good at scaling 480i and 480p, try standard mode, 2x setting, output to 1080p on the mini.
For 240p sources, I prefer Meister mode in either 480p or 720p output.
thegirlleastlikelyto
Member
I've got a Sony PVM and it's been cool learning about the cabling and how it works, but I'm stumped on how to connect my SNES to it. Anyone in the know care to help?
I've got a PS2 and Wii hooked up via component cables, that are hooked into a Pelican switcher, which outputs to the PVM via Component to BNC (I can connect them directly too).
I originally planned to buy this for the older consoles (Saturn, SNES): Retrogaming Cable's BNC to SCART adaptor + SCART cables for those consoles. However, they've been out of stock forever (though an email from the company mentioned they're getting more). I'd just simply switch plugs, rather than use the switcher for the older consoles.
I saw this pop on eBay: SCART to Component. This would let me use the switcher, I think, for those older consoles. Would video quality be worse, though?
I've got a PS2 and Wii hooked up via component cables, that are hooked into a Pelican switcher, which outputs to the PVM via Component to BNC (I can connect them directly too).
I originally planned to buy this for the older consoles (Saturn, SNES): Retrogaming Cable's BNC to SCART adaptor + SCART cables for those consoles. However, they've been out of stock forever (though an email from the company mentioned they're getting more). I'd just simply switch plugs, rather than use the switcher for the older consoles.
I saw this pop on eBay: SCART to Component. This would let me use the switcher, I think, for those older consoles. Would video quality be worse, though?
Don't transcode scart to component if you're using a PVM.
Use this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-RGB-...438?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2edc5abbbe
Also, try grabbing a bnc switcher so that everything - composite, component, scart, - will be switchable with one device after you convert everything to bnc.
RobFox64tm
Member
Looking into adding a Genesis to my RGB set up, but I'm so confused as to which version to get for the best picture AND sound. Any advice?
thegirlleastlikelyto
Member
Awesome, (seriously!) thank you. SCART to BNC ordered. I'll have to look into BNC switchers - I saw one or two that are fairly expensive - it'd be cheaper to simply find a larger PVM with two BNC inputs.
BocoDragon
or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
You probably shouldn't use Meister mode if you have a good signal like RGB or component, as it includes a low-pass filter that strips out some of the detail. It's an appropriate mode for a crap signal like composite, though. Those of us with un-modded NES/AV Famicom might want to use it... cleans up some of the noise in that cable.
For RGB/Component or maybe even S-video on 240p, set the picture to "Picture" and turn on scanlines separately instead.
The one that says HIGH DEFINITION GRAPHICS that doesn't have the "Sega Enterprises" screen at startup. I think you also want the expansion port on the back. That is definitely the best for sound... It has crap composite output but you will use RGB anyway.
Sorry, I've asked this before, but I can't seem to find the answer. How do you turn on scanlines in Picture mode?
Edit: Also, some of the High Definition models with the Sega Enterprises startups have 100% pristine, sharp RGB out. There's a guide out there as to which serial numbers to look for.
BocoDragon
or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
The "C" button
I think they all have decent RGB, don't they? It's really the sound that varies greatly between them. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Sixfortyfive
He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
If you're getting a model 1 Genesis, then you want one that has BOTH the "High Definition Graphics" label on the case AND has the "PRODUCED BY OR UNDER LICENSE FROM SEGA ENTERPRISES LTD." boot screen.
- Earlier revisions (without the boot screen) have prominent jailbars on blue colors in RGB mode. You have to kill the composite video output to fix it.
- Later revisions (without the HDG label) have poor sound.
For the model 2 Genesis, I believe that the later revisions are better than the earlier revisions when it comes to sound, but none are quite as good as the model 1.
- Earlier revisions (without the boot screen) have prominent jailbars on blue colors in RGB mode. You have to kill the composite video output to fix it.
- Later revisions (without the HDG label) have poor sound.
For the model 2 Genesis, I believe that the later revisions are better than the earlier revisions when it comes to sound, but none are quite as good as the model 1.
Is that still an issue even if you use raw sync cables?
I thought the sound on later ones with the HDG label was fine as long as the ports on the back matched up to the HDG labelled ones?
sixteen-bit
Member
My model 1 Asian NTSC (Taiwan/Philippines/Japan) Mega Drive suffers from the jailbars. I should probably mod my HDG + TMSS Genesis to play Japan MD carts so I can get rid of the import one.
No, what you want is a SCART switcher. Having a BNC switcher would be completely insane because then you would need one SCART to BNC cable for each console!
Sixfortyfive
He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
Yes.
early model 1 on the top vs late model 1 (revision VA6) on the bottom
why the composite video signal interferes with the blue signal
detailed testing for jailbars on the VA6
Jailbars are still there on the later revisions, but they're far less pronounced.
That might be true. I don't remember exactly.
Whoops, meant to say "the sound on later ones withOUT the HDG label".
There used to be really good pics to compare it on this page but they've all been eaten by the internets.
Mine doesn't have the HDG label (in fact I've rarely seen one here in NZ) but the ports along the back line up exactly with an HDG labelled system. Some other MD1 units have a different layout. I'll see if I can find a pic.
Edit: Found this page, which has this pic:
I could be misremembering, it could be sound or video or even both, but you don't want the bottom one that's for sure.
That page says VA2, VA3 and VA6 all have the YM2612, it's just the VA7 that doesn't (and is basically a model 2 inside a model 1 shell).
sixteen-bit
Member
Wondermega am cry
*sigh* aesthetically, it's my favorite MD model, but yeah, you're gonna have to mod it if you want RGB.
thegirlleastlikelyto
Member
That makes a lot more sense (I was just thinking of BNC to component because those are cheap and I have a bunch already). I still need the component switcher for the PS2 and the Wii. The kick in the pants is that I was in the UK at the end of last year and could have looked around for a SCART switcher
IrishNinja
Member
so in the move last year i noticed that my N64 SCART cable had a severed (i think it was blue?) wire and though oh no, one day im gonna play that and it's not gonna work so i booted up Mario 64 and bam everything works fine
the moral of this story is i have no idea how things work
the moral of this story is i have no idea how things work
Yea, I have one with both the HD label and the "PRODUCED BY OR UNDER LICENSE FROM SEGA ENTERPRISES LTD" boot screen - the picture is immaculate, and the sound is insane.
For some reason the C button isn't doing anything for me... What am I doing wrong?
NormalFish
Banned
I'm honestly not sure. I had the same question as you, tried this answer, and it worked without a hassle. Perhaps you need to be set to picture mode before hand (assuming you're not, can't think of anything else you might be doing that is different from my own experience)?
though actually, did you upgrade your firmware?
Huggers
Member
That's very interesting. My Mega Drive has both these things. I knew I'd never seen that boot screen before. My original Mega Drive was pretty much a launch unit
Shadow Hog
Member
Wait, you're asserting that your Mega Drive has the TMSS boot screen, but you knew you'd never seen the TMSS boot screen before
Huggers
Member
Wait, you're asserting that your Mega Drive has the TMSS boot screen, but you knew you'd never seen the TMSS boot screen before
My original one from 91. I don't recall having it. The one I use now does
TerryLee81
Member
I'm still so tempted to get some old Nintendo consoles, but it doesn't make any sense since I'm in Europe and everything is in 50hz, right??
Help me save some money!
Help me save some money!
Huggers
Member
I collect PAL stuff because to me it's about the nostalgia of buying what I used to own. Wait that's not helping is it?
bodeiseifer
Member
I would just like to add that if you want the proper experience avoid all 50 hz optimised games, saturn ones like Sega rally had their gameplay adjusted to match the 60hz but the overall image, whilst at first glance looks full screen is actually the pal squashed image with the sky,ground area just extended, ie, you're still getting a distorted image, this is also true of umk3 for the saturn, and also mk3 for snes, if you switch these pal optimised games to 60hz, it corrects the screen geometry but runs far too fast.
sixteen-bit
Member
TerryLee81
Member
Not helping at all!
Funny thing is that until a few months ago I wans't even aware of the 50/60hz stuff. Now I feel cheated! All those games I played in my youth ran quite a bit slower than intended.
Huggers
Member
I think it was an early model because we got it in 91 or maybe even 1990. Considering I'm in Europe. I consider that a launch unit.
That makes a lot more sense (I was just thinking of BNC to component because those are cheap and I have a bunch already). I still need the component switcher for the PS2 and the Wii. The kick in the pants is that I was in the UK at the end of last year and could have looked around for a SCART switcher
Instead of mixing up SCART and component you should probably just go all SCART.
The PS2 can do RGB just fine and you can find SCART cables at the usual channels for them.
The Wii is trickier though, NTSC models don't do RGB, but if you get a SCART cable for it, maybe you can send a component signal through it? In theory this should work, you'd just have to toggle your PVM's RGB input to component mode whenever your Wii is used, but maybe Nintendo does weird stuff that makes SCART cables not work at all on a NTSC Wii? Anybody knows?
sixteen-bit
Member
Supposedly you can use AnyRegionChanger to change your Wii's video output to PAL which will enable the use of RGB
Can it do 60Hz RGB or are you then stuck with 50Hz?
I don't see why not. Only a small handful of PAL Wii games are 50Hz, the overwhelming majority are 60Hz.
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