Oooh, I should try that.
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
- Thread starter IrishNinja
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Oooh, I should try that.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
Is there any way to convert a Component signal to S-Video?
My PSP go only outputs in composite and component, but my JVC CRT only accepts composite and S-Video. I'd love to have the crisper S-Video option but there's no official s-video output from the PSP go.
My PSP go only outputs in composite and component, but my JVC CRT only accepts composite and S-Video. I'd love to have the crisper S-Video option but there's no official s-video output from the PSP go.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
Yikes, $40. Hmm. I'll think it over and try to decide if it's worth the cash.
speedlolita
Member
Yeah, really depends on your specific set. Better displays were able to do 1600x1200 at 85Hz or so (for example).
I've been in contact with Marshall, the creator of the Ultra HDMI N64 mod, and he's been sending beta tests of a firmware update. I have a tentative final release firmware that so far works perfect. The main fix, the big one that I've been waiting for, is allowing simultaneous use of integer scaling and scanlines. Previously the two scanline modes were only usable with the regular scaling option (non-integer).
With the de-blur option, the anti-AA patch and now integer scaling, the picture is very sharp. I mean, this was possible before but it looked too pixelated and raw without the scanlines in place. They really complete the look. As an aside, sometimes it's better to play without the anti-AA patch because of all the exposed dithering in some games... would be great if someone figured out how to disable AA without also disabling the dither blending.
I'll try to post some pictures soon.
With the de-blur option, the anti-AA patch and now integer scaling, the picture is very sharp. I mean, this was possible before but it looked too pixelated and raw without the scanlines in place. They really complete the look. As an aside, sometimes it's better to play without the anti-AA patch because of all the exposed dithering in some games... would be great if someone figured out how to disable AA without also disabling the dither blending.
I'll try to post some pictures soon.
Finally got my hands on a 19" Sony PVM. Decided to setup a rack with my consoles in my office (Also known as a garage). I plan on getting a Framemister to record from the output of the monitor.
The place I bought and tested it (Yes its a washroom)
Currently setup next to my 27" Sony Trinitron runnign S-Video
Consoles Setup so far (More in boxes at the moment)
Work in progress.
These are sitting next to the Candy Cabs (Slightly older picture, moved them over for space on the right side currently)
The place I bought and tested it (Yes its a washroom)
Currently setup next to my 27" Sony Trinitron runnign S-Video
Consoles Setup so far (More in boxes at the moment)
Work in progress.
These are sitting next to the Candy Cabs (Slightly older picture, moved them over for space on the right side currently)
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
Nice, a 19" PVM would be the perfect sweet spot for me.
I'll probably settle for something in the 20" to 32" consumer range before it's said and done.
I'll probably settle for something in the 20" to 32" consumer range before it's said and done.
Laevateinn
Member
How'd you get your candy cabs? I've been obsessed with a while and I'm willing to spend far too much money on one.
Ken at thegameroom in Utah usually has cabinets , but you have to pay the freight charge which makes them pretty expensive. I got mine from Windy Gaming in Chicago, but he is no longer doing cabinets. The freight on my cabinet was like 300 bucks I want to say.
Laevateinn
Member
Fuck I just moved to Chicago. 300 is actually a lot less than I would have suspected. I'll have to save up.
Craigslist in my case
speedlolita
Member
If you're in Europe I'd recommend joining Arcade Otaku if you're after some candy, I got my briefly owned (r)Egret 3 there.
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/index.php
Next time I'll definitely get an Aero City...
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/index.php
Next time I'll definitely get an Aero City...
Lunarwhale
Member
What's Gaf's opnion on HD Retrovision's cables? Considering picking up the SNES one - seems like a decent budget solution to getting an image that isn't jittery shit like my current RF (or to a lesser extent, composite) cable is.
Alternatively, how much would SCART and a small converter box run me? I don't really have the money for anything as nice as, say the Framemeister.
Alternatively, how much would SCART and a small converter box run me? I don't really have the money for anything as nice as, say the Framemeister.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
I'm similarly looking for both Dreamcast and SNES S-Video cables. Most of the reviews I'm reading on Amazon are poor--for all of 'em.
For Dreamcast, a VGA box with svideo is good.
For SNES and other Nintendo consoles, I use this cable and it works perfectly. Be sure to get the one with no composite.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
I think that's the same S-Video cable I have now that seems to have gone bad. It doesn't show a picture unless I start fidgeting with it and even then it's spotty at best.
As far as I can tell, VGA boxes for the Dreamcast are pretty expensive. I was hoping to pay <$10 for a S-Video cable, not $50+ for a VGA Box.
Component cables (Or SCART to component conversion) is a great option, but only if the display you're attaching to can deal with 240p correctly. Most modern flatscreens will treat 240p incorrectly as 480i, which causes a blurry/smeary mess while in motion, hence why a lot of people use an external scaler like the Framemeister or new OSSC when connecting to an HDTV.
If you're going into a CRT, this is definitely the way to go. If you're planning on using your consoles on an HDTV, I'd try to feed it a 240p signal before buying anything extra. An easy way to do this with equipment you might already own is using a Wii (Preferably with Component cables), as a lot of Virtual Console titles can be forced to display 240p.
If you're going into a CRT, this is definitely the way to go. If you're planning on using your consoles on an HDTV, I'd try to feed it a 240p signal before buying anything extra. An easy way to do this with equipment you might already own is using a Wii (Preferably with Component cables), as a lot of Virtual Console titles can be forced to display 240p.
Scart + box is more expensive for a single console, but more interesting if you have several. HD Retrovisions are a great plug and play solution, but I wouldn't use them if you plan to have like three or more consoles plugged in.
You mention the Framemeister so I have to warn you that neither cable solution will upscale. They both output 240p and you have to make sure your TV can deal with it. Component cables or box are primarily made to be used on a SD CRT from North America, it's basically giving them the Scart input they never had.
A Wii or a PS2 with a PS1 game are the simplest way to determine if your TV is 240p friendly.
Hmm, I been using it over a year now with no issues. I guess it depends on the cable.
I got this Dreamcast VGA box last year for 50 bucks and it went up in price on amazon. It's cheaper on ebay though.
Ordered a PC Engine Core Grafx w/ RGB and a Turbo Everdrive. Excited to post pics soon!
Yes! That'll be awesome. I'm jealous, I haven't gone down the PC Engine rabbit hole yet.
Lunarwhale
Member
Ah yeah, for the time being I'm only going to have my SNES set up, so it sounds like the Retrovision might be a good option. Thankfully my TV does support 240p, so that shouldn't be an issue. Just to make sure, regardless of upscaling component will still provide me with a noticeably better image than composite or RF, correct?
Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the information! With the restock coming up on the SNES cables I figured it might be a decent time to hop on getting some better IQ from my system.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
Ordered a PC Engine Core Grafx w/ RGB and a Turbo Everdrive. Excited to post pics soon!
Is there a reputable modder or modders anybody could suggest?
Seems to be a lot of caution with PC Engine modders.
So I actually got a cable that supposedly plugs into the exterior port and gets RGB that way. I've read good things and it's from a 100 % seller so I'm not too worried, but I've also seen modded systems as well. Hopefully mine works.
Edit: I see it's also posted on retrorgb, so probably good! (And a good link in general for some info: http://retrorgb.com/tg16.html)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/172331463120?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
This auction was open earlier today but has ended now (seen the seller's name mentioned on Everdrive forums):
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/201662616905?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
And thanks BTails!
Thanks to Khaz who recommended kenable for SCART cables. They arrived today and they are BEASTS!
Those tips are metal, and HEAVY! I tested them out with my Hama switches briefly, and everything is working great with no perceivable signal loss. I put the switches in a cupboard in my setup to hide the mess (Despite tangled cables apparently being a thing in the Show off your RETRO game setup thread, haha). I think it looks pretty tidy, and I'm so glad I don't have to hot swap SCART cables anymore!
Those tips are metal, and HEAVY! I tested them out with my Hama switches briefly, and everything is working great with no perceivable signal loss. I put the switches in a cupboard in my setup to hide the mess (Despite tangled cables apparently being a thing in the Show off your RETRO game setup thread, haha). I think it looks pretty tidy, and I'm so glad I don't have to hot swap SCART cables anymore!
RadarScope1
Member
Yeah I have thought about the HD Retrovision cables. But I have several consoles and will eventually have RGB out on three, maybe four of them. I have an RGB monitor in my basement retro cave but want to hook up maybe a console at a time to my plasma upstairs. Therefore the $55 Advance adaptor is my best bet. Essentially like putting a SCART input on my TV.
speedlolita
Member
Mmm, thick SCART cables.
I have a JVC male to male that I use when I want to use a SCART switch, its like 1.5cm thick. Good shiz. PlayStation official SCART leads are very thick too.
I have a JVC male to male that I use when I want to use a SCART switch, its like 1.5cm thick. Good shiz. PlayStation official SCART leads are very thick too.
Lunarwhale
Member
Good to hear! Definitely gonna hop on it then. and heh, thanks. Always get those mixed up.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
Yeah, one of my Nintendo S-Video cables is definitely busted. I'll have to purchase a new one as the good one (of two) is going up on eBay alongside my N64 tonight.
Here's a crummy "taken with iPhone" picture of Yoshi's Island, which arrived today.
Here's a crummy "taken with iPhone" picture of Yoshi's Island, which arrived today.
YesManKablam
Member
I picked up a really nice SNES recently, but found out it's not a 1chip system. The store I bought it in will let me swap it with another one they have which I think is 1chip. I opened the expansion slot, and there were no dots. The system itself is a little grimy, but it should be worth it, right? Also, is there a way of telling which 1chip it is without opening the whole thing up?
Laevateinn
Member
My PVM arrived. It's godly.
I've never seen anything so well packed in my life.
And in news that makes me so sad I clearly have some sort of mental problem, I can't find my Saturn RGB21 cable and Retro Console Accessories doesn't have anything on her store right now. I'm hoping it's behind something or in a box and that it didn't get lost in the move.
I've never seen anything so well packed in my life.
And in news that makes me so sad I clearly have some sort of mental problem, I can't find my Saturn RGB21 cable and Retro Console Accessories doesn't have anything on her store right now. I'm hoping it's behind something or in a box and that it didn't get lost in the move.
Looks awesome. Also, I now have One Night in Neo Kobe stuck in my head, so thanks for that.
Not for a NA SNES. Your best bet is one where the serial number starts with UN3 but that's not a guarantee.
http://retrorgb.com/1chipsnes.html
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
I think the girlfriend wants to take a weekend trip to "Second & Charles" a Books/Music/Movies/Games/Misc. shop over the weekend, gonna wait it out and see if they carry Nintendo S-Video cables before I order one online.
Laevateinn
Member
Anyone have any recommendations for a JP-21 switch?
Good news: I found my Saturn RGB cable!
Good news: I found my Saturn RGB cable!
InfiniteCombo
Banned
Good luck, I hope you find it. I was able to get my S-video SNES cable from my local retro game store.
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Also, I recently got my Sony-branded D-terminal cable which I ordered from Japan for my PS2. The YPbPr output through Framemeister:
Most of my games for the PS2 are 2D fighting game imports, and they look fantastic. Sorry that I'm a bum and have no pictures, will see when I can take some for this thread.
May not be anytime soon, though. I'm that much of a bum.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
Just had a thought. Gonna check out a local thrift shop tomorrow after work to see what they have. I seem to remember them having an entire wall of miscellaneous cables, maybe I can fish something out of there.
Technically the Mini has slightly better picture, but it needs to be RGB modded.
YesManKablam
Member
This is a PAL system we're talking about here.
Shin Johnpv
Member
Ordered a PC Engine Core Grafx w/ RGB and a Turbo Everdrive. Excited to post pics soon!
The PC Engine/TG16 is such an awesome little system, and the Everdrive for it is like the best bang for the buck everdrive purchase. I warn you though, you're going to be wanting a CD add on for it really fast.
Shin Johnpv
Member
KeithCourage on the PCEngineFX forums and on Facebook gets my highest of recommendations. I had him RGB mod, and re-cap my PCEngine Duo and he fixed up the laser for it. Did an amazing job too.
Not all 1-Chip SNES' are equal. The SNES Mini with a very simple RGB mod will give you the sharpest picture you can get out of an SNES. A non-mini with a revision 3 1-Chip will give you a very close picture to a modded mini. Though there is no way to tell for sure if a non-mini has a 1-Chip or which revision it is without opening it up.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
I was just playing Snatcher last night! Anyway, just message her and she will list a Saturn cable for you.
Laevateinn
Member
I ended up finding it. I had tied it behind my TV. I'm guessing so I wouldn't lose it when I got my apartment set up. I do need some more cables so I'll probably end up doing that anyway but it's not super urgent.
ninjaurbano
Member
I'm using a Sony BVM-1915 for almost 2 years and recently I found out that it's recommended to use BNC terminators for connectors that are not used.
Then, I bought a few BNC terminators to use with the loop-through outputs - since I'm using only one device connected to the monitor. To my surprise, the picture became very dark and dim. It seems the contrast is way too low.
So, using BNC terminators produces a picture with a VERY low contrast. To correct this problem, I need to increase my contrast from 50% (without BNC terminators) to almost 100% (with BNC terminators).
Curiously, I have a small CRT PC monitor with a default contrast setting of 100%. I also have a Sony Wega consumer TV which the "normal" settings is using the contrast at 80% and the "brilliant" and "sports" settings use the contrast at 100%. Now it seems a bit odd that my BVM is able to produce high contrast using only 50% (without the BNC connector).
What's going on? Should I use the terminators with my contrast at almost 100% or remove the terminators and use my contrast at 50%, like I was always doing before?
Then, I bought a few BNC terminators to use with the loop-through outputs - since I'm using only one device connected to the monitor. To my surprise, the picture became very dark and dim. It seems the contrast is way too low.
So, using BNC terminators produces a picture with a VERY low contrast. To correct this problem, I need to increase my contrast from 50% (without BNC terminators) to almost 100% (with BNC terminators).
Curiously, I have a small CRT PC monitor with a default contrast setting of 100%. I also have a Sony Wega consumer TV which the "normal" settings is using the contrast at 80% and the "brilliant" and "sports" settings use the contrast at 100%. Now it seems a bit odd that my BVM is able to produce high contrast using only 50% (without the BNC connector).
What's going on? Should I use the terminators with my contrast at almost 100% or remove the terminators and use my contrast at 50%, like I was always doing before?
ToastyFrog
Inexplicable Treasure Hate
Question for the smart, cool dudes in this thread. I need to connect a device with SD VGA output (240p) to an xRGB Mini Framemeister. What's the best way to make that connection, given that the Framemeister lacks a VGA input port?
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