Yes, it's a modded digital cable. It's weird how the RGB and Component cables require a separate cable for audio.
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
- Thread starter IrishNinja
- Start date
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Yeah, their design hasn't changed ever. And I adore it. I can't think of any other company that's stuck to something quite like that.
demianariel
Neo Member
Hello everyone.
I'm about to buy a PVM Monitor. Specifically the PVM-1440QM. witch have a euro SCART socket.
i will be using this Monitor with a Genesis, Snes, Saturn, n64 and ps1.
There is not much information online regarding this model. but for what i've read it laks the "super fine pitch" that mosts trinitrons have. This model has 300 lines of resolution.
Anyone knows if that is a bad thing? can the picture quality of this "low end" PVM be lower that a conventional CRT TV?
I'm about to buy a PVM Monitor. Specifically the PVM-1440QM. witch have a euro SCART socket.
i will be using this Monitor with a Genesis, Snes, Saturn, n64 and ps1.
There is not much information online regarding this model. but for what i've read it laks the "super fine pitch" that mosts trinitrons have. This model has 300 lines of resolution.
Anyone knows if that is a bad thing? can the picture quality of this "low end" PVM be lower that a conventional CRT TV?
lostinblue
Banned
^ It's not so hot.
But compared to all 14" CRT consumer TV's who never go higher than 350 TVL's (usually less) it'll do the trick.
Plus, it's not so hot here in europe because everything has euroscart going for it, but for US that's a tad bit different and having that means you can plug stuff directly, rather than having to channel the scart into RGBS. Just for that it sounds pretty good for a first PVM, most people get one then wait 3 weeks for adapter cables just to plug a scart cable (and see if the TV is indeed alright), and these cables if bought from a certain seller from ebay won't even work.
Can get frustrating. This way you only have to focus on Scart RGB cables for now.
But I wouldn't say that's a keeper, no.
But compared to all 14" CRT consumer TV's who never go higher than 350 TVL's (usually less) it'll do the trick.
Plus, it's not so hot here in europe because everything has euroscart going for it, but for US that's a tad bit different and having that means you can plug stuff directly, rather than having to channel the scart into RGBS. Just for that it sounds pretty good for a first PVM, most people get one then wait 3 weeks for adapter cables just to plug a scart cable (and see if the TV is indeed alright), and these cables if bought from a certain seller from ebay won't even work.
Can get frustrating. This way you only have to focus on Scart RGB cables for now.
But I wouldn't say that's a keeper, no.
demianariel
Neo Member
Thank you so much for your clear answer!
But now you left me with a concern, because i was going to buy a bunch of scart cables from Ebay...any advice?
lostinblue
Banned
Yes, if possible buy from here:
-> http://www.ebay.ca/sch/retro_console_accessories/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
Best 3rd party cables being hand made currently, this means they are properly compensated when that applies (most on eBay will skim through that to lower costs) and proper shielding. Sometimes not as good as official cables... Like on SNES case who was very picky with them, but close enough and way cheaper than hunting some of those. (actually scratch that, seems like she's 100% re-creating the official cables now, that is recently listed, I'm sure she didn't have those before)
It's a shame she doesn't cover all consoles (dreamcast) and sometimes console regions (PAL SNES am cry) so there might be some cases where you'll have to fish cables from other places... Which takes me to the next point...
Pay attention to region. Genesis and PS1 have no regional pinout differences, SNES and Saturn though, do. And N64 is just a bitch (tops out at S-Video if no mods are applied on specific models). Also bare in mind everything RGB will be an upgrade and probably easy to sell without loosing money, so you don't have to go for the most expensive cables if available (like those SNES ones), crappy RGB cables are often still better than S-video, providing they don't need compensation that's simply not there (and they're always better than composhite bar some cataclysm going on)
Wrong region RGB cables on Saturn might even fry the console, supposedly... And with the SNES they'll give out an image that's far from ideal/pretty.
Also be aware than eurocart and JP21 scart are virtually identical but use different pinouts, plugging euroscart into JP21 usually fries it, and perhaps plugging JP21 onto euroscart can fry it as well, nevertheless always buy euroscart for sanity's sake and not "oh... what region is this cable?" If something wants JP21 (XRGB stuff) there will be adapters for euroscart, don't worry. Most sellers don't even offer JP21, but she does and so be careful not to order them.
If the cables you want/need are not stocked by her, go here. Not as shielded and therefore not as good (specially on problematic platforms) but still known to be good.
If you're buying cables for a Mega Drive 1 buy CSync ones (explained a few posts back), for other consoles doesn't really matter but you might prefer csync nonetheless, composite video is usually the pin linked to the sync channel due to the fact that then, composhite (yellow cable video) can always be used if equipment doesn't support RGB, makes sense for manufacturers to ensure compatibility but doesn't make much sense for someone that wants RGB. You might prefer them because csync is more easily accepted by stuff that process signal, like XRGB's, monitors and other solutions who don't support composite video meaning that to plug stuff into that sync stripping has to occur (take composite video, nuke everything but the sync information).
Friend of Sonic
Member
Actually, I've been meaning to ask. I have her normal shielded SNES cables, but I'm getting audio buzzing. I'm wondering if it's worth trying out these heavy duty ones. I don't want to be the guinea pig that has to spend almost 40 bucks lol, but I will if there's any merit to doing so.
lostinblue
Banned
SNES is a bitch, it should be amplified or better shielded from the inside but isn't, which is why internal amplification "quests" are popping like mushrooms lately, I don't think there's a "go to" tutorial that everyone relies on due to being undoubtably the best/most universal method to do it yet, but it is a point of major interest lately.
Anyway, and regarding SNES signal woes, Nintendo was painfully aware of this and their cables were atypical and part of the solution:
Source: http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=46303
Which is why that cable might come real close, and nothing before did.
Friend of Sonic
Member
And remember, if you're unsure about a cable's internal hookups you can validate them yourself with a multimeter. It's pretty easy, use the resistance setting, and jam one side in one of the scart connector holes and then poke the pins on the console connector with the other side until you see a variance in the readings.
lostinblue
Banned
Her prior cables were shielded, but individual shielding like that is a very rare thing to do or be able to source so she was most likely using a shield for RGB+S and another one for LR sound, now on that version everything is individually shielded/grounded.
I'm not even sure she will offer that for a long time, because I remember her actually explaining why her cables weren't as good as the official ones on some forum (which is probably why that info spread), and that she wasn't able to source the components (a cable with individual shield/ground for 6 cables) in order to produce them at the time.
It's a pity she doesn't do cables for PAL SNES, because I have a set of RGB cables that aren't good enough for my standards (There's a little noise going on) and I only wanted to upgrade for the best, not looking for another "in-between" cable, but I might have to. Will try and contact her sometime to ask if she can hook me up for a PAL SNES cable of those shielded/grounded to hell and back).
Friend of Sonic
Member
I also seem to remember reading a couple of posts where people sprung for the official Nintendo cables, and still had audio problems. So, it's probably an internal fix that's needed like you said.
And you should ask. I needed a long patch cable, for my third switcher on the other end of my long TV stand and she hooked it up. Nice phatty coax cable. She's the greatest!
lostinblue
Banned
Probably... yeah. These will be better, but a full fix could be deeper, best cables in the world can only keep it to degrade further, and I've reached the conclusion that at output SNES is already walking a thin line where even small changes can make a huge difference. Official cables are actually shielded right up to the pins cables plugged into, they were paranoid about not adding any interference in there.
On the image department, ever since I've seen RGB-amp SNES results I've wanted to do it, I don't dig 1-chip much to be honest. I mean I want one for collection purposes and fully modded at that (always liked snes mini design even when they were disliked a few years back), but a mod that manages to do away with the bleed to the right behavior on a regular SNES and who wants a 1-chip and it's incompatibilities anyway. I don't feel it's an ultimate SNES at all and with HDMI modules for N64 and NESRGB happening it's only a matter of some resourceful nerd taking an interest.
... I hope.
But for the time being my project is switchless region free internal-amped "normal" SNES and pray that the revision I own is good enough as some are known to suck, mine seems like it's not a 1-chip by a few thousand units, it's funny, following the identification guides it hits all the 1chip tell signs like silver stickers on the base and misses the listed serial number only by a little, but the motherboard is not 1chip. I even considered if it was swapped or something, but it's probably a 1994 SNES.
Anyway, 100% compatibility as my main SNES is something I won't give away.
Will do, the only problem is that I don't have that money to spend on cables this month.
The cable I have is not bad, it's no composite levels of bad where I just stop playing and wait for proper cables. It's kinda like your sound issue, it gets on my nerves, but it's down to some interference on the image... like static. It can be defeated with low filter passes and triple comb filters (doesn't even appear on one of my TV sets), but I want to get rid of it on the source (cable).
I have a lot of questions. Any help would be appreciated.
I've been using a standard CRT Trinitron for a few years and just found out about monitors and RGB recently.
I want to get myself a PVM monitor. I already emailed a few people on craigslist and am waiting to hear back. I have a few questions though.
Will using this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAMA-SCART-...ion_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item19c9eeb637
With a set of any RCA cables going into RCA-BNC adapters to the RGB inputs of the monitor work? Would it be the same result as using one of these?
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/...o-4-x-bnc--2-x-rca-for-sony-pvm-monitors.html
For consoles that aren't RGB will a RCA-BNC adapter work for a composite video signal in one of the other, non-RGB video inputs?
How is audio passed over to these TVs? Do they have speakers or audio outs?
Do RGB cables carry audio?
I've been using a standard CRT Trinitron for a few years and just found out about monitors and RGB recently.
I want to get myself a PVM monitor. I already emailed a few people on craigslist and am waiting to hear back. I have a few questions though.
Will using this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAMA-SCART-...ion_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item19c9eeb637
With a set of any RCA cables going into RCA-BNC adapters to the RGB inputs of the monitor work? Would it be the same result as using one of these?
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/...o-4-x-bnc--2-x-rca-for-sony-pvm-monitors.html
For consoles that aren't RGB will a RCA-BNC adapter work for a composite video signal in one of the other, non-RGB video inputs?
How is audio passed over to these TVs? Do they have speakers or audio outs?
Do RGB cables carry audio?
theSlacker
Member
She must have found some limited source since for like a year now she has been putting up those newer ones in very small quantities every so often. I didn't actually understand if they were worth the extra cost so never really thought about buying them, but you are making me second guess that and want to get a set to try out.
lostinblue
Banned
I didn't know that, cheers, I only seen them today and I browse her store every so often.
Must have missed them every time.
Friend of Sonic
Member
Yeah, I feel the same way. Is it worth it? I'm just so disappointed that I finally have a proper stereo setup for the 16 bit era for the first time in my life with speakers, an AVR, everything, and it sounds amazing except for the mild buzz lol. And of course, I plug in S-video and it's perfection. Lol, oy, you can't win.
That adapter doesn't have audio so I wouldn't recommend it, better get that cable instead (it provides audio through plain RCA plugs). Depending on the model your PVM may not need a sync cleaner though, if it doesn't then it's better to not have one built in to your cable because it may cause problems with some consoles (mostly just NTSC Saturn, but still).
All PVMs should have composite and S-video inputs, so for consoles that don't do RGB you can just connect them to that. S-video still looks very good on a PVM.
Most PVMs only have mono RCA inputs. It's better to just connect the audio to something else.
Thank you very much for the information. Are there any alternatives that sell the SCART-RGB/Audio cable or is that the only please that sells it?
lostinblue
Banned
You're mostly spot on.
That adapter will do the trick, but I don't think you're picturing how to connect it just yet:
1. Hama RGBS breakout
2. Scart S-video, composite and L/R audio breakout (this is important!)
3. Coupler (because these two ended with a male scart)
4. Gamecube Scart (or any RGB Scart you want)
Note: There are couplers with audio breakout that would allow me to suppress that middle section, but I wasn't able to find one in stock and they were more expensive than just buying the breakout adapter+coupler, both very cheap locally.
That way I can derive composite which with some passive component adapters meant for some early HDTV's I really would have to use it, but most importantly... I can take sound. Only one channel is plugged on in that image because my PVM's are mono. (most are)
Not just any RCA cable will do. If you look at standard cables for your consoles you might notice sometimes the yellow cable is slightly thicker than the L/R ones, and even if that's not the case it doesn't mean they are equal, they're just made to look equal, if you cut them the composite one will be thicker when it comes to cooper. This can also be seen with component cables that include sound ones. Anyway, don't cut cables unless you have to, just take my word for it.
Video cables need to be 75 Ohm. Audio cables are always 50 Ohms, bar some audiophiles being crazy and using 75 Ohm for sound purposes. Or perhaps some situation like the one mentioned above with the SNES... using 75 Ohm for sound there might improve the situation, but it usually doesn't. 99,9% of the cases it's overkill.
If you use 50 Ohm cables as carriers for Red, Green, Blue or Sync you'll immediately have static added somewhere. It won't look right so pay attention to that, use cables meant for video. getting 3 of them is easy, just buy a male-to-male component cable, you'll be one cable short that way though, so you either buy the same thing in the form of male-to-male composite+L/R cables or buy another component and just use it for sound as well. (I'm using a 75 Ohm cable for audio breakout there)
Also remember breakout is using RCA but to plug them onto the PVM you'll need RCA to BNC adapters, they're very cheap on ebay in packs of 10. Not as cheap locally I've learned.
Yes, RCA to BNC adapters work for composite, for consoles that use composite via scart (ie: consoles where the scart is a lie) like PAL NES'es you won't get an image via RGB plugs on the PVM with a scart cable that sources only composite, but that wasn't your question. Composite, S-video and RGB have to be plugged onto their appropriate places and then they'll work fine.
I disagree with antibolo, I recommend doing the breakout like this because it's cheaper and lets you play with signal and learn via trial and error. It might also come in handy lately, if you want to plug/breakout stuff for other means and purposes (Extrons, taking sound out of scart cables in general for plugging onto stuff like a scart to component transcoder... stuff like that), it's certainly nice to have. You can still buy one of those cables later if you still want them. This said, they are very expensive and I find the pricing to be a rip off. Try this nice chap over at neogeo forums as he might be able to help you. I don't think he's always doing said cables though, he does them by batches as he used to do other kinds of cables as well.
You don't need a sync cleaner on the majority of PVM's so don't worry about it unless it's one of those models. You're not likely to stumble upon them, trust me. But if you have any doubts ask us and we'll make sure.
You're mostly spot on.
That adapter will do the trick, but I don't think you're picturing how to connect it just yet:
1. Hama RGBS breakout
2. Scart S-video, composite and L/R audio breakout (this is important!)
3. Coupler (because these two ended with a male scart)
4. Gamecube Scart (or any RGB Scart you want)
Note: There are couplers with audio breakout that would allow me to suppress that middle section, but I wasn't able to find one in stock and they were more expensive than just buying the breakout adapter+coupler, both very cheap locally.
That way I can derive composite which with some passive component adapters meant for some early HDTV's I really would have to use it, but most importantly... I can take sound. Only one channel is plugged on in that image because my PVM's are mono. (most are)
Not just any RCA cable will do. If you look at standard cables for your consoles you might notice sometimes the yellow cable is slightly thicker than the L/R ones, and even if that's not the case it doesn't mean they are equal, they're just made to look equal, if you cut them the composite one will be thicker when it comes to cooper. This can also be seen with component cables that include sound ones. Anyway, don't cut cables unless you have to, just take my word for it.
Video cables need to be 75 Ohm. Audio cables are always 50 Ohms, bar some audiophiles being crazy and using 75 Ohm for sound purposes. Or perhaps some situation like the one mentioned above with the SNES... using 75 Ohm for sound there might improve the situation, but it usually doesn't. 99,9% of the cases it's overkill.
If you use 50 Ohm cables as carriers for Red, Green, Blue or Sync you'll immediately have static added somewhere. It won't look right so pay attention to that, use cables meant for video. getting 3 of them is easy, just buy a male-to-male component cable, you'll be one cable short that way though, so you either buy the same thing in the form of male-to-male composite+L/R cables or buy another component and just use it for sound as well. (I'm using a 75 Ohm cable for audio breakout there)
Also remember breakout is using RCA but to plug them onto the PVM you'll need RCA to BNC adapters, they're very cheap on ebay in packs of 10. Not as cheap locally I've learned.
Yes, RCA to BNC adapters work for composite, for consoles that use composite via scart (ie: consoles where the scart is a lie) like PAL NES'es you won't get an image via RGB plugs on the PVM with a scart cable that sources only composite, but that wasn't your question. Composite, S-video and RGB have to be plugged onto their appropriate places and then they'll work fine.
I disagree with antibolo, I recommend doing the breakout like this because it's cheaper and lets you play with signal and learn via trial and error. It might also come in handy lately, if you want to plug/breakout stuff for other means and purposes (Extrons, taking sound out of scart cables in general for plugging onto stuff like a scart to component transcoder... stuff like that), it's certainly nice to have. You can still buy one of those cables later if you still want them. This said, they are very expensive and I find the pricing to be a rip off. Try this nice chap over at neogeo forums as he might be able to help you. I don't think he's always doing said cables though, he does them by batches as he used to do other kinds of cables as well.
You don't need a sync cleaner on the majority of PVM's so don't worry about it unless it's one of those models. You're not likely to stumble upon them, trust me. But if you have any doubts ask us and we'll make sure.
Wow! Thanks a lot for all the information. There was actually a 29 inch monitor I almost picked up but it looked it up and it looked like it needed a sync stripper, so no go on that. Still waiting to hear back from craigslist people but I am fortunate to live an hour from LA considering all the TV production that took place there.
I had no idea that RCA cables could be different. So if I were to use 3 yellow RCA to RCA or any non-audio component cords out of the Hama adapter into BNC it would work?
Are these the 3 pieces that make up your connection? If so this is much cheaper than that retrogamer site.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00006JD2U/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0007XQA8Q/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAMA-ADAPTO...ion_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3f2016988c
lostinblue
Banned
Monitors are interesting because they are pretty high resolution compared to most TV's (a monitor capable of doing well defined 800x600 is able to do 800 TVL's, if not more, most TV's are under 600 TVL's), but there's lots of hurdles to get through and then they *might* work. Which is why most people don't bother.
I only bother sometimes because I have all the equipment I need to pull it... very hit and miss, see, 240p and 480i is 15 KHz, most monitors want 31 KHz only (which is 480p), even if they support RGBS providing composite is composite sync. VGA is RGB+Horizontal sync+Vertical sync (RGBHV), some of them accept composite sync which is H/V being sent through the H cable, so good old RGBS albeit limited to sync only, can't cope with video being sent via composite as usually happens on scart cables.
Yellow RCA cables are 75 Ohm, so those would be fine, yeah, another trick for connections like these is the shorter the cable the better. But you'd need 4 of them for RGBS, the fourth is for the sync information.
Yes, those 3 will suffice and that's precisely what I have going on in here.
Some people do it slightly different... for instance, you have bandridge scart switches they do breakout sound and composite up on the front and the output port for the TV on the back is female (one uses a male to male scart cable for euroscart connections), so if done like that you can take the sound from the front and suppress the coupler and that adapter. This because the switch acts like the middle part and the RGBS adapter can plug directly onto the output... No need to "reverse" it.
Of course that adds to the price, but you gain a scart switch out of it... If you need one.
There's also a cheaper passive version of that switch, but it's recommended to nuke the LED light on that one, because it has no power supply going for it (unlike the automatic version who comes with one), so it's taking energy out of the scart.
The scaler board has the potential to be better than any Scart to HDMI converter but not necessarily while set up like that.Ok, I changed my mind on the scart to hdmi converter(putting it on hold) and wonder if this is the way to go(on the cheap):
to
to
Two things, that setup shines and has a reason to be providing you add a scanline generator on the output, scanline generators can only be easily added over analog.... Scart to HDMI is analog to digital. hence adding scanlines to the output of a board that outputs HDMI would be impossible. That's what makes "that" attractive.
Secondly, that's not the best way to connect RGB onto that board, it'll work, but that board prefers RGBS to be fed as RGBS, even though it doesn't have a Scart input and needs composite sync cables (composite without video information) or composite video going through a sync stripper in order to process it. Specifically... If it detects RGBS you'll have geometry controls on the menu, you won't have them over Component or RGBHV (VGA).
So if you have these black bars:
You can zoom it in:
And do you have a VGA port to plug it in the end of the "chain"? A lot of people go with Scart to HDMI because they'd need a VGA to HDMI converter on that config, they're being suppressed on most TV's and even in some PC monitors lately.
Anyway, if you're not gonna have geometry controls nor a scanline generator on the end of the chain an LKV 362A is bound to do the same.
Yep, I do have a vga adapter to connect vga male to female for 2 vga connections even. But what do I need for the setup to be able to use that scaler board?
lostinblue
Banned
Read above as I kept editing it for a while.
I also wrote extensively about that board and how it should be plugged here.
Like with vga to hdmi, scart to component is too hit and miss, it's a simple transcoding operation but it can go wrong for a variety of reasons. (lack of signal compensation/missdetection, usually)
I don't recommend just any converter due to that, but I was on the verge of buying this one a few months back:
Which was an arcade converter, I wouldn't for for a no brand one. Which is the other reason I favor something like the sync strike or a sync stripping cable... it's quality is predictable, not so for a nameless Scart to RGB transcoder on ebay/amazon.
I only didn't jump on it because I don't really need it. It sync strips the composite video so if working fine it does the job, but like I said that's not the way this board prefers to receive the signal.
Yeah I admit that I'm really new to all this as I discovered Scart this month for the 1st time, watch vids, read articles and such on how much better it is than composite and svideo. Seeing how crazy this all is just for direct capture, I might as well go for the scart to hdmi converter for my 1st time until I learn more about it to use better options.
lostinblue
Banned
I think the LKV 362 is a solid way to start as it's the cheaper way to plug scart mild-properly onto a modern TV, it has two/three problems.
First, it's a all-in-one solution it converts, processes and scales, good or bad, everything is done by it and can't be bypassed. This means it can't be used as a module for something later on. I usually try to buy "modules" that only do one thing without compromises, for instance for VGA to HDMI to be versatile for more than one task I don't want it to scale/process the image at all, it could help if I only used a Dreamcast plugged into it, but I also use my scaler chain (based on that board you were inquiring about) since it ends on a VGA plug and is connecting to my game room Plasma who only has HDMI or component ins available (and Scart). Processing would add 33 ms of lag to my chain.
What I mean is that a scart to component transcoder or some other solution could be used later on a chain (like the one you were describing)... a Scart to HDMI scaler can't even if the barebone result is better because most TV's will hate 240p over component, even if they manage to show it. (very hit and miss, the probability of them showing an image over 240p in component, albeit my TV does)
Just like I was describing I have a way to plug scart onto a PC monitor and see if it's compatible, I never aimed to have that, I simply do, it's the sync strike adapter. it also helps with higher end scalers like the DVDO Edge, if I decide to get one one day (has no scart in, supports RGBS with composite sync via component/RGBHV in), lots of other applications are made possible by having that. and since you can, sometimes you do [try stuff out].
Secondly, it doesn't allow any kind of geometry regulation to take place even down to aspect ratios, meaning 4:3 gets stretched for 16:9 and if the TV can't force it back to 4:3 it'll stay that way, with the wrong ratio. I can't stand that although thankfully my TV allows to force it back to 4:3. It's understandable why it gets done by that, instead of vertical pillar boxed (so black bars are not part of the image) but there should be a toggle option.
Third would be the no scanline situation, no machine under a few hundred dollars will have perfect 240p processing or very crisp scaling and adding scanlines helps a lot of both of those, it also helps defeat scaler algorithms it'll encounter along the way.
quick question :
is there any hardware that will allow me to run 4:3 aspect ratio on a new widescreen. Like fill in the sides with black space so I get the correct ratio. I'm sick of running all my retro games all stretched looking, feels like a sin.
If there is, what are my options?
is there any hardware that will allow me to run 4:3 aspect ratio on a new widescreen. Like fill in the sides with black space so I get the correct ratio. I'm sick of running all my retro games all stretched looking, feels like a sin.
If there is, what are my options?
Later Alligator
Member
Rgb mini does that amongst a sea of other awesome things
What sort of TV is it? A lot of modern TVs will still allow you to select the aspect ratio.
wow , i don't wanna admit how long I haven't known that. thanks
Your secret's safe with me
Got my Joytech switches today. No more SCART switches for me, EVER!
Edit: Until I learn to make one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH5M4Xj5-RY
I mean, I don't intend to buy any more. I don't think I'll use these two new ones until I have multiple displays set up, but it'll give me 12 SCART inputs total and I honestly don't think I'll even need that many.
Although at the moment my SNES, N64 and GC all share the same cable, so maybe I could get to 12 if I splash on separate cables for them. Let's count...
NES
SNES
N64
Gamecube
Mega Drive
Saturn
Dreamcast
PS1
Well that's 8. Tell me which 4 other consoles I should prioritise getting hooked up gaf!
Holy crap I need me one of those!
CDI is the new hottness!
But seriously I think a turbo duo would be next on the list no?
sixteen-bit
Member
Neo Geo is glorious in RGB
What does that mean?
TVL? Does it stand for TVLine?
Are you saying smaller TVs usually had only 350 visible lines or below?
Where the rest caught in the dot-mask?
Or are you saying something else entirely?
IrishNinja
Member
i currently have:
Genesis
32X
Saturn
Dreamcast (wired for XRGB use with optional RGB switch)
NES
SNES
N64
PSX
PS2
Duo-R
(Gamecube is component)
and i don't even have a Master System back yet...so yeah, step it up Peagles!!
Well the Master System is a cool system. Although you can use your Megadrive which is fully compatible with it and not miss a thing, since cartridge adapters with FM sound are coming. Or you dig to even earlier Sega stuff and go SG-1000. But then it starts to get ugly. I'd argue having the console allows to focus more on the system instead of having the few odd games you stumbled upon in a car boot sale.
You should consider Microsoft consoles. The Xbox is cool and had its share of exclusives (Panzer Dragoon Orta is awesome). The Xbox360 is the last of their console with RGB output and also have a good deal of good exclusives. Both are better played on a widescreen setup imo.
You could ditch your Gamecube for a Wii, it's one of the last system made for SD, and it has plenty of cool games too. Like the Xboxes, better in widescreen.
Pc-Engine (CD) is probably your next must-have if you want to keep it old-school, 2D style. Many cool exclusive, shmups and platformers from Japan mainly, and porn.
See, four more systems to plug into your magical box.
lostinblue
Banned
Yup, TV lines, basically they could only display 350 or less vertical lines before starting to blend them... Usually less.
As for your question, a mix of both, shadow mask/aperture grille didn't have enough definition to display it any better but the electron guns would usually not be up to the task either.
Friend of Sonic
Member
What are you getting done to the MS? Also, does 32x grt the rgb signal or do I need to do something extra?
IrishNinja
Member
ah, worded that wrong: i need to buy back an SMS! been using a power base converter, and honestly with a new one bringing FM sound soon i might not need one for a bit, but ill want to replay 3D glasses & light phaser games eventually.
32X like the model 1 genesis needs no modding for RGB signal, but it does need a separate cable & retro_console_accessories got one that has the stereo sound cable too!
Friend of Sonic
Member
Ah yeah, and plus just for looks. I love the look of that console!
I am guessing I don't need a special patch cable because my CDX is going to do stereo as is? (unlike the Model 1)
Thanks for the suggestions everybody! I should probably have mentioned I'm running a PVM (so no widescreen, no 480p) but there are big plans in the future to have an XM29 and a decent EDTV widescreen CRT again... When I live in an actual house and not a tiny apartment!
Oh god no please save me from the CDI!
I need some teachings on the Turbo Duo. I'm not even certain if any of the line of PC Engine stuff was released here in New Zealand. I've never seen any in the flesh. It's just some weird foreign console to me that I hear get mentioned every now and then but have never really looked into. Keen to learn more though!
It's on my list actually, but I think I'll have to go for a consolised MVS being a student, if I ever get one at all. There was a basic Neo Geo system (no box or anything just cables to run it, I think it was PAL but modified for 60Hz and full screen) which didn't sell recently. It was listed for about $400. Then there's games... Maybe I'll leave this one til retirement lol.
So looking at your list, I'm missing 32X, PS2 and Duo-R. My partner is the PS2 person of the house so it's not hugely my thing, but I could look into it. I would love a 32X but again they are hard to find here, and expensive to import.
I run all my Master System stuff through my Mega Drive. I have two but they are CIB and live in my wardrobe. Hehe.
I had considered the original Xbox. I've actually been keeping an eye out for a cheap system over the past few weeks. Not sure if PAL would be okay though for Xbox, need to do some more reading on whether it sucks or not. There's a 360 on the plasma and it looks great so I don't feel the need to put it onto a CRT, but I might consider it later when I have more space to run a second one just for XBLA stuff.
I have a Wii ready to go, but I need to get my butt into gear and call Nintendo Australia to see if they have RGB SCART cables to sell. I want an official one but they seem to be pretty elusive. Would be great for VC stuff via RGB I think!
I definitely need to look into this PC-Engine stuff. I'm going on holiday in a couple of hours so I guess that'll be my holiday reading!
Oh god no please save me from the CDI!
I need some teachings on the Turbo Duo. I'm not even certain if any of the line of PC Engine stuff was released here in New Zealand. I've never seen any in the flesh. It's just some weird foreign console to me that I hear get mentioned every now and then but have never really looked into. Keen to learn more though!
It's on my list actually, but I think I'll have to go for a consolised MVS being a student, if I ever get one at all. There was a basic Neo Geo system (no box or anything just cables to run it, I think it was PAL but modified for 60Hz and full screen) which didn't sell recently. It was listed for about $400. Then there's games... Maybe I'll leave this one til retirement lol.
So looking at your list, I'm missing 32X, PS2 and Duo-R. My partner is the PS2 person of the house so it's not hugely my thing, but I could look into it. I would love a 32X but again they are hard to find here, and expensive to import.
I run all my Master System stuff through my Mega Drive. I have two but they are CIB and live in my wardrobe. Hehe.
I had considered the original Xbox. I've actually been keeping an eye out for a cheap system over the past few weeks. Not sure if PAL would be okay though for Xbox, need to do some more reading on whether it sucks or not. There's a 360 on the plasma and it looks great so I don't feel the need to put it onto a CRT, but I might consider it later when I have more space to run a second one just for XBLA stuff.
I have a Wii ready to go, but I need to get my butt into gear and call Nintendo Australia to see if they have RGB SCART cables to sell. I want an official one but they seem to be pretty elusive. Would be great for VC stuff via RGB I think!
I definitely need to look into this PC-Engine stuff. I'm going on holiday in a couple of hours so I guess that'll be my holiday reading!
baphomet
Member
I'm actually not sure how many consoles I have in rgb. Its far past the point of being able to have them all plugged in at the same time..
Let's see.
Genesis/CD/32x
Master system
Saturn
Dreamcast (VGA/rgb switch)
Nes
SNES
N64
GBA (lol)
Neo Geo
Turbo duo r
Tg16
Supergrafx
3do
Jag/CD
Game gear
Cdi
Ps1
I believe that's all of them. Its off the top of my head so there may be 1-2 more. Not to mention stuff like 2600, c64, px-fx running in svideo and another 7-8 things in component.
Its to the point I don't have much else to buy even if I wanted to.
Let's see.
Genesis/CD/32x
Master system
Saturn
Dreamcast (VGA/rgb switch)
Nes
SNES
N64
GBA (lol)
Neo Geo
Turbo duo r
Tg16
Supergrafx
3do
Jag/CD
Game gear
Cdi
Ps1
I believe that's all of them. Its off the top of my head so there may be 1-2 more. Not to mention stuff like 2600, c64, px-fx running in svideo and another 7-8 things in component.
Its to the point I don't have much else to buy even if I wanted to.
Ok My list:
Master System (broken )
Megadrive with Mega-CD (killed it yesterday)
Saturn
Wii
Xbox
PS2
Aaand that's it. Six systems to plug, nine if you count the retrocompatibilities (PS,Gamecube, Mega CD), five or seven if you dismiss the casualties. I'm entirely missing old Nintendo stuff, I'll probably get to it once my Mega-CD shelf is nearly finished, but this time with Everdrives, I ain’t starting another collection again! Oh and I want a Super Game boy. That's like the coolest thing ever.
Master System (broken
)Megadrive with Mega-CD (killed it yesterday)
Saturn
Wii
Xbox
PS2
Aaand that's it. Six systems to plug, nine if you count the retrocompatibilities (PS,Gamecube, Mega CD), five or seven if you dismiss the casualties. I'm entirely missing old Nintendo stuff, I'll probably get to it once my Mega-CD shelf is nearly finished, but this time with Everdrives, I ain’t starting another collection again! Oh and I want a Super Game boy. That's like the coolest thing ever.
theSlacker
Member
I don't even know what to do with my Dreamcast. To either just set it up on one of my RGB monitors or look more into VGA for it.
I see, I also understand it can be really hard for people to find them. Luckily Craigslist Los Angeles is filled with them due to the film/tv industry. Definitely weird cord set ups and many people would also much rather just use their existing HD TVs instead of having two TV sets.
I already have a CRT just for old games and my set up is made for that, so it is only natural for me.
Here's my current set up, except my Genesis is now a full 32x, CD system as well.
So what is your preferred set up for playing these games? Do you use an RGB HD scaler box?
Does composite video to BNC need a sync? Or only for RGB inputs?
Well the good news is that I found someone on a specialty forum who makes the same cables as that UK website, actually better quality, but he only charges 25 bucks and is from the US. This way not only is it an easier set up but a good price too. Also the audio is RCA break away so it is perfect.
Is bridgeport the best SCART selector? I can imagine that I will have a lot of cables I will have to keep reattaching to the adapter if I don't get a selector/switch of some sort.
Also, I have an atari 2600 you can see in that photo, is there any way to get that playing on an RGB monitor with any method, or is it impossible since it is RF?
IrishNinja
Member
shut it down, no one's beating bapho here
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