HDR popup notification for HDR10 content and Dolby Vision popup notification for, you guessed it, Dolby Vision content.
You'll definitely see the DV popup when you play something like Marco Polo or Daredevil on Netflix.
Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen
- Thread starter spannicus
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HDR popup notification for HDR10 content and Dolby Vision popup notification for, you guessed it, Dolby Vision content.
You'll definitely see the DV popup when you play something like Marco Polo or Daredevil on Netflix.
DJ Lushious
Member
Was Daredevil S1 finally re-released with HDR?
I'd say we can probably expect somewhat brighter with better input lag. Those are effectively the only two complaints (outside of price) that reviewers seem to have with the 2016 models. To what extent they're addressed is another story.
Yep, it had a DV update a couple of months ago. Looks great now.
Do you think next year's model will ship cheaper than this year's launch price?
Better near black uniformity would be nice
No. You have an option like sending it to a US address and pick it up
What if i don't get one?
It's weird.
edit: I get one with Marco Polo. None with Daredevil S2
PeterVenkman
Member
So I think I've finally solved my panel issues with my B6. For anyone questioning banding or weird light patches: get LG to look at it! They sent out a tech, who confirmed the issue with test patterns and called it in to their supervisor. Once they both agreed, they swapped out the defective panel on the spot! Even kept the guts so none of my settings were affected.
Took forever but my panel lottery woes might be behind me now.
Took forever but my panel lottery woes might be behind me now.
holygeesus
Banned
I've read a lot of calibrators are setting OLED Light to 100 then adjusting the contrast down, to mitigate the ABL. Have to say, it's nothing I've ever noticed during normal use.
Thanks for the note. I haven't figured out how to reproduce my issue with test patterns, but with some content when it tries to display deep gray colors, there is a light gray stripe all along the right edge. It's like 1.5 inches wide and the whole height. It is very visible with some content and not at all visible with other.
Black itself is fine. Bright colors are fine. Light gray, fine.. it just can't get anywhere approaching black in that area.
What if i don't get one?
It's weird.
edit: I get one with Marco Polo. None with Daredevil S2
Daredevil S2 is not in Dolby Vision.
holygeesus
Banned
Have you checked it's not the source? I say that, as I was ready to take my set back while watching Coherance on Netflix - there were bands and bands ahoy during outdoor shots, but when I played it back on my laptop they were there too. It was obviously a flaw in the cheap digital camera they used.
Or try doing a manual compensation cycle?
SuperEpicMan
Banned
I just got ordered a KS7000 today and I am wondering if the HDMI I got with my launch PS4 will be okay to transmit HDR?
Oh wow thanks that explains it. Should be marked better by Netflix though
Yes, but I wouldn't expect anywhere close to $3k for the 'E7' at launch, so somewhere in between launch pricing and current.
Agreed
I agree. When I first turned on my E6 and logged into Netflix to check out some 4K content, I wondered why House of Cards was only playing in 1080p despite Netflix labelling it as 4K Ultra HD.
I later realised that only the latest season was in 4K and not the first. Silly Netflix.
Yeah I'm sure it's not source. I do need to do a bit more troubleshooting though.
My apologies.
I've tried that as well, and I still can't seem to get the result I'm hoping for.
I must be in a very small minority to want to pass up the LG OLED (which was got at an insanely terrific price) for the KS8000. But at the very least I want to get one from Best Buy and compare how my content looks between them. If it turns out the difference is negligible, then I'll return the KS8000 and stick with the OLED. But I have a feeling I'm going to come away preferring the KS8000 for its brighter picture.
One thing I see get brought up more than once is that people are using the OLED for their living room. My original goal was to have it as a personal TV in my room (which I would describe as "decently lit", nothing beyond a single ceiling fan). That could be playing a factor in why I prefer brighter LED-type screens.
This is where I get confused. I have an LED TV in my living room (not to be confused with home theater room). This room requires wide viewing angles, and one entire wall is a huge bay window setup. The windows are the entire length of my couch, plus one additional window beyond each end of the couch. 75% of that wall is a huge window, basically. I think that's the scenario people are trying to paint when they say an OLED might struggle, and honestly I still think I'd be personally ok if I swapped the displays. Maybe it would be less than ideal during a very strict amount of hours per day in that room, but the viewing angles would be worth it.. plus we'd usually not watch during full on sun. I've currently been using the OLED in my home theater, so much more controlled lighting. My basement has rarely-used overhead florescent lighting and the OLED doesn't struggle when that's turned on, so I can't see it struggling in a bedroom with a ceiling fan light.
Again, not trying to tell you what to like and dislike. Just suggesting that the preference you developed is often overcome by using things at a more normally calibrated state for a couple weeks. I've seen this happen countless times when people get displays ISF calibrated, then immediately find them "dim" or "less vibrant". Instead content looks like it was intended by the folks that produced it, and the viewer's perception and expectations adjust over a matter of days.
I was just reading an anecdote from a respected calibrator today. He setup a C6 and was measuring 700 nits after calibration. That's not going to melt your eyes, but it's plenty for a normally lit setting.
I was hoping that would be the case with me, that I would learn to adjust to it. And that could still happen, in fact. I admit I'm not helping things by constantly trying the different settings, so at the very least I'm going to stop constantly adjusting the picture and leave it as is for a few days.
But I also plan to rewatch some content on my LED (which is up for sale but still in the room next to mine) to make doubly sure. If the difference in vibrancy is too much, then I'll probably still pick up a KS8000 and decide from there. In an ideal setting I'd keep the OLED, since I would have to go and resell it if I decided to get the KS8000 instead (but I imagine that wouldn't be too hard so long as I sold it at the price I got it for).
I'm not the only guy here who watches a lot of content with bright colors right (anime, nintendo, RPGs)? What setting would you recommend to really make that stuff stand out as best as the OLED can do? It could still be that I haven't set up the ideal settings, or that one of them might be clashing with the other.
Basically we could put it to a test: how about Wind Waker HD off the Nintendo Wii U? What would be the ideal settings for that game to look the best on an OLED?
I don't know what the fuss is over brightness either. I don't want to burn my retinas.
This video kind of demonstrates the best example:
https://youtu.be/P1PpHwfoT5Y
I really think it's an exagerration to call an LED's brightness "retina burning".
https://youtu.be/P1PpHwfoT5Y
I really think it's an exagerration to call an LED's brightness "retina burning".
I loaded up google on my E6's web browser and the white page looks bright to the point where I wouldn't want anything brighter and it certainly didn't look as dim as the guy's E6 in the video does.
What are his settings?
Coming from an LED set the brightness on my OLED blows me away every time, and I don't have it cranked up. Granted, I put up some quality black out curtains because I hated dealing with reflections on my old set, but I've watched both sets in this environment and it's a night and day difference between the two.
Also the guy's settings in that video above look all kinds of jacked up, at least when comparing it to mine.
But ABL isn't a factor if you aren't pushing the set close to max light output for "normal" content.
Regarding the "retina burning", I suppose it's subjective. I usually view my OLED in a dimmer room with 1 60W incandescent bulb in a lamp. It's not dark by any means, but not bright either. The OLED is currently set with contrast at 85 and backlight (whatever it's called) at 40-45. When I watch hockey, I often engage the "eye comfort" setting so that it dims a bit so that I don't get eye discomfort. So not only am I not at torch settings, I'm intentionally limiting the light output or it's not comfortable for a 3 hour game. I certainly don't have anything dialed in at this point, just have used it a limited amount of time.
More importantly, what are your settings?
Genuinely curious, because I want to see how Google looks afterwards.
My OLED Light setting is at 100 and Contrast is 85 (ISF Bright). ABL only dims my screen when I leave it on a static image for a certain number of minutes. It's basically image retention prevention. I've never seen it actively dim my image when watching a movie or playing a game.
Can you post more detailed settings, like your color temperature, black levels, dynamic contrast, etc?
Also the issue isn't about the image being dimmed in motion, but how certain scenes and effects don't "pop" like they used to. Again, I bring up anime as an example, but I'd like to use something like Wind Waker as a metric, and will check that out next when I get home (I've mainly been sticking to PS4 content).
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
Just picked up a 55" KS8000. It's entirely a stop-gap solution until OLED gets the HDR input-lag issue resolved either through firmware or new models. I don't want to spend OLED money on something with lag issues in HDR games. I don't play online but I do enjoy things like Pinball FX2 where lag is very important. I decided to go ahead and get the 8000 instead of waiting because it was so inexpensive, and I'm sick of my 10 year old rear-projection display. I don't want to endure yet another year with that thing. Game devs keep making fonts smaller and smaller and my eyes and my old optics-reliant set are getting older and older. Not a good combination.
My one hope is that I don't have any horrible DSE or banding. If it's minor I can deal with it for the price and the 1-2 years I plan to keep this set, and I'm already aware the top and/or bottom are going to be noticeably brighter than the rest of the screen since even Best Buy's demo units are afflicted with this. I just want to be able to pan around a blue sky in an first person game and not see stationary smudges all over that mar the view. I have until mid-February to return it so maybe LG's firmware will come out in the interim and we can see if they are able to fix the HDR lag issue.
My one hope is that I don't have any horrible DSE or banding. If it's minor I can deal with it for the price and the 1-2 years I plan to keep this set, and I'm already aware the top and/or bottom are going to be noticeably brighter than the rest of the screen since even Best Buy's demo units are afflicted with this. I just want to be able to pan around a blue sky in an first person game and not see stationary smudges all over that mar the view. I have until mid-February to return it so maybe LG's firmware will come out in the interim and we can see if they are able to fix the HDR lag issue.
OLED Light - 100
Contrast - 85
Brightness - 50
H Sharpness - 0
V Sharpness - 0
Colour - 50
Tint - 0
Expert Controls:
Dynamic Contrast - Off
Super Resolution - Off
Colour Gamut - Normal
Edge Enhancer - Off
Colour Filter - Off
Gamma - 2.2
Picture Options:
Noise Reduction - Off
MPEG Noise Reduction - Off
Black Level - Low (or High if playing on PS4)
Real Cinema - On
Motion Eye Care - Off
TruMotion - Off
Miscellaneous settings:
Energy Saving - Off
Eye Comfort Mode - Off
OLED Panel Settings -> Screen Shift - Off
Note that colour management isn't calibrated yet. Your games/anime won't look their best until you calibrate properly for colour accuracy.
holygeesus
Banned
There are two types of dimming. What you are describing is ABSL. ABL is where the display dims suddenly when a very bright image appears on screen.
Can't say I've noticed it. Is there an easy way to test it?
When a character in DBZ powers up.
Seriously, that's one of the most notable examples I've seen. A sudden blast of light from Super Saiyan energy or otherwise.
This is where it truly irks me.
But if I recall, there is a way to turn ABSL off with the service menu (using a Harmony remote, which I have), so I should probably try that.
holygeesus
Banned
Don't go looking for it. I've never noticed it either.
SuperEpicMan
Banned
Could anyone tell me if my launch PS4 has the ability to stream 4K and HDR content through Netflix and Amazon, and if so will the HDMI that came with it be sufficient?
draftingscotch
Member
Thanks! It's definitely a huge upgrade.
I'm not saying it's better than the LG OLEDs I saw in Best Buy, but I was definitely prepared to see much worse black levels on the KS8000. Obviously, all of these TVs will have great blacks in a bright store, but in my dim living room with bias lighting, it seems surprisingly comparable.
Either way, it is much, much better than the greys of the Westinghouse, and I'm very happy...
OG PS4 is not capable of 4k, only the PS4 Pro is. Technically they added HDR support for the PS4 but neither Netflix or Amazon have plans to provide 1080p HDR streaming, so unfortunately the only thing that will work in HDR are games that support it.
Trust me when I say you don't want to go looking for ABL. It's way more aggressive than you'd expect, and it's easily one of my biggest complaints with my OLED55C6P that I never thought would be an issue. And I chose to own one ultimately because of its image quality, sacrificing performance (input lag). It leads to grayed whites or dimmed whites when it happens no matter how high or low you calibrate your nits (your peak brightness at 100% white), and it effectively cuts the contrast ratio of bright scenes where it shouldn't lose to LEDs like the Sony XBR49X800D (an IPS panel) in the same scene when both are calibrated at the same luminance levels. There are some bright scenes where I just prefer viewing on an LED because ABL doesn't exist as a permanent feature (unless you access the service menu, which I don't want to brick my TV over) and as a form of intrusive image processing.
It's actually worse the way LG does it because it's probably one of the reasons why we still don't have HDR in Game mode. The way Samsung and Sony implement it, it'll automatically switch to the correct color gamut and default to ST. 2084 when it detects an HDR signal within the same video mode. There's also the fact they keep their TV setting labels consistent throughout their various video modes. For example, why the hell would LG lock away a color temperature slider in Game mode and not make it available in ISF Expert? Why doesn't LG have a finer gamma point slider that acts like Sony's? Why is Gamma in Game mode renamed Low, Medium, High 1, and High 2 when it's just 1.9, 2.2. 2.4 and BT. 1886 in any other video mode, which goes back to the mislabeling in HDR mode. Game mode also locks the Wide (Rec. 2020) Color Gamut, so you have oversaturated colors for SDR (with a nice grayscale admittedly when you tone down the color and color temperature). It's a mess really.
Aztechnology
Member
So how do I know if HDR is enabled on shows like Grand Tour via prime? Im almoat positibe it is, but theres no identifier.
Oh, and to all savvy 2016 LG OLED owners: LG OLEDs - how to enhance near black detail
Looks like I'll have to calibrate again.
Looks like I'll have to calibrate again.
Insane Metal
Member
Skin tones look a loooot better on the 8000. The contrast (I assume it's actually the HDR?) looks quite a bit better on the 8000 too, see underneath the chair, there is a lot more detail to be seen on it than in the 6290, which looks quite dark in comparison.
mmazurkiewicz
Member
Looks like Adorama is selling the 65 E6 for $3000 now.
Kinda wish I waited for such a price instead of getting the 55 E6, but then again, thats $1200 more than I got the 55 E6 for.
Anyway, price has hovered around $3500 to 3800 for a while so $3000 is really good.
Kinda wish I waited for such a price instead of getting the 55 E6, but then again, thats $1200 more than I got the 55 E6 for.
Anyway, price has hovered around $3500 to 3800 for a while so $3000 is really good.
Aztechnology
Member
I don't disagree. I was mainly wanting to point that out as a counter reaction too many people saying that the set was "bottom of the barrel" . It's still a substantial upgrade for many people and is in a great price range for a lot of consumers.
I tried this technique and found it caused heavy banding in Deus Ex when in HDR mode so reverted it. Not sure it's a good fit for games yet, but that was on the OG PS4 - not a pro.